MUST SEE table saw idea can save your fingers!

[@StumpyNubs]

▼EXPAND THIS SECTION FOR IMPORTANT INFO▼ - ISOtunes Bluetooth hearing protection (Save 10% when you use this link, or the discount code: STUMPY) bit.ly/3BHYdH7 - Shark S-12S Universal Blade Guard (provided by Harvey): www.harveywoodworking.com/products/shark-s-12s-universal-overhead-guard *Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!* (If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission) -Video about how to make a throat insert with splitter: kzbin.info/www/bejne/navHd2CYgb2WbrM -Video about importance of blade guards: kzbin.info/www/bejne/j6qlY4ybpM2pmdk *Some other useful links:* -More videos on our website: stumpynubs.com/ -Subscribe to our e-Magazine: stumpynubs.com/browse-and-subscribe/ -Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/ -Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/ -Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE CHEAP TOOLS★ -123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij -Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK -Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv -Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9 -Irwin Drill Bit Gauge: amzn.to/2AwTkQg -Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK -Self-Centering Punch: amzn.to/2QvbcrC -Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW -Angle Cube: lddy.no/10nam -Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7 -Utility knife: amzn.to/3nfhIiv -Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak -Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI -Digital depth gauge: amzn.to/3mwRf2x -Wood Glue: amzn.to/3mqek6M -Spade Bits: amzn.to/3j8XPtD ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE HAND TOOLS★ -Digital Caliper: amzn.to/384H1Or -Marking Gauge: lddy.no/10muz -Marking knife: lddy.no/10mv0 -Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3 -Stanley Sweetheart Chisels: amzn.to/3y5HDOc -Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6 -Gent Saw: lddy.no/ss2x -Coping saw: amzn.to/2W7ZiUS -Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13 ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE POWER TOOLS★ -Miter Saw: amzn.to/3gqIlQ8 -Jointer: amzn.to/3yc3gfZ -Planer: amzn.to/3mn6BGF -Router: amzn.to/3grD22S -Sander: amzn.to/3DdvD0Y -Cordless drill: amzn.to/3D9ZiIm -Brad nailer: amzn.to/3gsRkjH -Mini Compressor: amzn.to/3mvrmQr -Bladerunner: amzn.to/2Wl0TtJ -Jig Saw: amzn.to/3zetTBY -Scroll Saw: amzn.to/3gq9qDc -Multi-Tool: amzn.to/3muZuMi ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE OTHER TOOLS★ -Drill Bits: amzn.to/3B8Ckzh -Forstner Bits: amzn.to/3kk3wEI -Shop Vacuum: amzn.to/2Wkqnbl -Machine Setup Blocks: amzn.to/3gq7kDh -Counter-Sink Bit: amzn.to/37ZukUo -Featherboard: amzn.to/3DeqHsq -ISOtunes Hearing Protection (Save $10): bit.ly/3BHYdH7 (If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission)

[@JCWren]

Would you mind adding the link to the video about the DIY riving knife video you mentioned, please?

[@TenmaFN]

850$ Ouchhhhhhh its 250$ more than my saw.....

[@staceyellingsen451]

Taking this as a call for ingenuity and safety, your presentation gave me a lot of ideas! Thank you for helping all of us 10 finger woodworkers staying in that club!

[@bobcade1002]

I added this Harvey blade guard to my Powermatic table saw about six months ago. I cut the 3” over arm down to fit as my saw only cuts 30” right of the blade and my shop is small. I didn’t want the long end with the dust hose sticking out into the walk way on the right side of the saw. The setup they send you with this blade guard is very adaptable to many different set ups. The counter balance on the hood makes moving the dust collector/blade guard easy. It collects about 90% of the sawdust that used to end up on the surface of the saw. I found that I need to move it out of the way more than I thought I would as it’s in the way for narrow cuts next to the fence or for making resaw cuts through taller blocks of wood where you need to cut one side, flip the stock and cut through the other side. It works beautifully for long rip cuts or panel cuts on plywood. Overall I’m very pleased with the dust collection and the ease of use. Would I buy it again? Yes, probably. The cost was significant but so is my time. No experimenting with do it yourself ideas here. Just bolt it on, make a few adjustments, and go to work. I like it, but I will say it won’t work for everybody. Before you buy one, evaluate how you use your saw the most. If you cut lots of pieces with the fence close to the blade, or if you use a lot of jigs that run on your fence, or if you use a sled a lot, you may want to look at other options.

[@StumpyNubs]

Thanks for the person experience. :)

[@smart-jn1gg]

I invested in a Sharkguard splitter and guard on my old Delta unisaw. So far its great.

[@DrewLoika]

Shark guard is great, it's unfortunate that an America made alternative costing less than half wasn't mentioned.

[@mauricecohen3830]

@@DrewLoika The Shark guard looks like a great product but they would sell a lot more of them if they priced them a $250 insead of the $450-500 range.

[@michaelmcdermott2178]

So, here's the message for the naysayers - regardless the fact that I'm not a likely customer for this particular item, and even though I'm perfectly happy with my SawStop setup, this video is valuable for me to watch. thoughtful reminder about shop safety is money in the bank. Thanks, buddy!

[@danielkonig7340]

Thank you so much for this Video. I wanted to build something like this for years and totaly lost focus on it. Now, seeing this Attachment, I have new inspiration on how I can build a bladeguard for my DeWalt 7492, that gets me a saver blade guard an a better dust collection. The splitter of the Dewalt is luckily short enough for hidden cuts, so that won't be a problem.

[@JonnyDIY]

Wonder if I can add a rivinf knife to my old 10" craftsman?? 🤔 thanks for sharing Stumpy 💕🤙

[@patmash]

Expensive or not, companies thinking about safety products is always a good thing. You can see this product is made well with quality materials. Good job showcasing this stumpy.

[@randyshoquist7726]

Thanks. As a machinist and occasional woodworker with a 70 year old Craftsman contractor saw, this will give me some good ideas for a shop-built guard.

[@LyleAshbaugh]

Great video. Now the wheels in my head are turning on how to make a diy version. I’m using my grandfathers craftsman 113 contractor saw from the late 50’s. Blade guard is long gone and all I have for safety is diy splitter inserts that I made after watching another one of your vids. 😎

[@mikenewman4078]

Thanks James. The product is surely good. Your lesson was even better. The guards that mount to the included riving knife encourage removal and discard. Or at best removal for non through cuts and not always refitting before the next through cut. I got around the riving knife issue by laminating 2 thin hardenable shims with TIG. Mild steel isn't springy enough, yeah I tried it. That guard system with a ceiling mount would be the bees knees.

[@Old52Guy]

This is perfect! I have a 1950s Shopsmith. Never had a blade guard. Thanks!

[@mikeking7470]

I also have a Shopsmith. Mine is a Mark V/500. There is a blade guard, of sorts, which I use. For this to work with a 'smith, you would need a floor standing pedestal and some way to adjust the height, since the table moves up and down.

[@Old52Guy]

Good to know. Since this has never had a guard (pre OSHA) anything is preferable. It definitely gives me some ideas. Thanks!

[@Old52Guy]

@@THX..1138 They are a bit frightening, especially the lathe as it comes up to speed. The numbers on the rpm dial are nice but you eventually learn to just use your ears since the dial isn't very accurate on these old girls.

[@DH-lq6lf]

I have one of those. I have had mine for more than a year. I love it and it moves out of the way easily when I need to move it.

[@lounackman6104]

I bought an overarm blade guard years ago made by Excalibur sadly no longer around but very similar to the current Saw stop one. Heavy to remove so I can use the router table but have it hooked up to some overhead pulleys to lift it up and away. Has dust collection as well. Rarely have to make a cut without it - usually when making tenons with my cat iron Tenoning jig .

[@ex-nerd]

I have SawStop's take on this style of guard / dust shroud. Being able to move it around so easily was the #1 reason I paid for the upgrade -- I find myself switching often between rip cuts and a crosscut sled, and knew that if I had to mess around with fiddly attachments to attach/disconnect the guard every time I use a sled, I would inevitably get lazy and just stop using it. The only addition I can think of to either of these systems would be to add some bristles at the bottom of the dust shroud to prevent dust from being blown out onto the table -- think about how CNC dust shrouds are designed this way. Dust collection works pretty well when cutting pieces off of boards, but you're just taking a sliver off one end for final fit, that dust goes everywhere.

[@moldings_etc]

Nice demo, funny how you said in the beginning this is not for everyone and everyone chimes in saying not for me!! Looks like a very good upgrade to the mentioned "crappy" guards

[@StumpyNubs]

I deleted a lot of angry, rude comments. People see a tool they can't afford and they just go off, sometimes. This review was honest, included pros AND cons, and even suggestions on how to build your own- and some people still get triggered... That's KZbin! :)

[@moldings_etc]

@@StumpyNubs Yes it is!! :)

[@HortBlam]

The university where I study Craft Sciences has a bladeguard that is basically the same thing on the huge Altendorf sliding table saw. Based on two years of experience I can really recommend it. It’s easy to use an really works quite well. The Altendorf one has a bigger hose for dust collection.

[@snaredude56]

The Delta Uniguard had many of those features. It rested on the table and lifted up when you put a workpiece through and was easy to lift up and out of the way. It also came with a pop up splitter. This is what I use. This new guard is a much more refined and elegant take on that very old guard.

[@sdavidb5620]

The old Delta design is still one of the best.

[@chaseholladay3781]

This is what I have, but am trying to figure out a way to cut thin kerf with the original delta unisaw guards.

[@snaredude56]

@@chaseholladay3781 My uniguard popup splitter works fine with my one thin kerf blade.

[@paulpennington816]

😊 I have been looking for a good table saw. I have been using Dewalt 745. I just purchased a Harvey HW110C today. Thanks for the reviews!

[@markkoons7488]

What a beautiful device! Inveterate scrounges: keep an eye out for junk power feeds from which to get your pivoting and height adjustable verts and horz. The worst of those early import power feeds usually failed in their lousy gearing or their motors. There's usually a lot of good salvage left and almost no monetary value. Only a cheap SOB would ask more than $15 for one of those. You can quote me on that. Another source of beefy parts is radial arm saw junk. There's a a beautiful 3ph 12" radial arm Rockwell, once-upon-a-time-state-of-the art and US made in the '70s out in one of my storage containers. ll give it to whoever wants it... S.E. Wyoming.

[@gteam53]

Excellent video, as usual. Everyone should have one of these!

[@robertzarfas9556]

The thing I love about this channel is that not everything is for me, but everything is always worth talking about.

[@StumpyNubs]

This guy gets it!

[@michaelmcdermott2178]

What Robert said.

[@rea59]

I've been using this one for about a year now and I like it. As Stumpy says, it is very heavy. My saw is a Grizzly G0690 which is Harvey's C300 they used to make for Grizzly so it is a direct fit. Of course I also have the same router table and yes, it can be cumbersome. My shop is a little narrow so I did cut the tube down by about a foot and it worked out great. Overall this is a good recommendation if you can afford it. Thanks Stumpy!

[@chrisdemeglio6707]

As always, you give a thorough assessment of a product you are reviewing. But....I just looked at the price tag for this monster!!!! Over $1000 with shipping...Damn!!!! I'd rather save that money and put it towards a Saw Stop for the safety. They also have a blade guard/dust collection system for less than $300. In the end it's always how someone wants to spend their money but I am sure many people will get tired of swinging this back and forth and say, "I'm only making one cut", which could cost a finger or worse. Thanks for your review.

[@ifiwooddesigns]

That’s a great safety equipment. Only thing I’d improve is adding one way wheels or maybe automated wheels. I’ll probably make one out of acrylic and add dust collection. Great video!!!

[@637mathias]

You could bolt it on a wall if you plan your workplace a bit different. I had a similar idea a few weeks ago but also thinking about something hanging down from ceiling and able to use for table saw, joiner and same more tools (mostly for dust collection but also safety).

[@ronh9384]

Great video James. That is a nice accessory for the tablesaw. I also had something homemade for my first tablesaw but the way you did your DIY version was better than my version but I will definitely use your version as a starting point for my next version. You mentioned using a splitter and/or riving knife… when I bought my current cabinet saw they offered a standard version and a low profile version riving knife. A friend has the same saw I do and noticed I had two different riving knives and didn’t know they offered a low profile version. Just a heads up for other users to check for accessories for your tools that can help in a tricky cut… Ron

[@bdunigan80]

I have both the Harvey saw and this guard by Shark. It is a good guard and very well built. As a guard it definitely does its job and does it well. As for the dust collection aspect of it the design fall short. The suction at the blade area is just strong enough to really capture the fine dust. This is especially true when you have a cut that is right at the edge of the wood and the blade is not between the wood. I would love to see Harvey work to retool the dust collection part off this guard so the suction is stronger. All this being said I would still buy the unit again.

[@MarksElectricLife]

Add this to the Harvey table saw and IMO you have a safer system than a SawStop for less cost 🤔 Thanks for another great video!

[@chaseholladay3781]

How would this guard work while cutting thin kerf pieces for a striped cutting board…1/4”-1” wide pieces? Using a shop made wooden push shoe

[@bradvirgil1255]

I have been thinking about adding one of these after I try Dennis from Hooked on Wood's zero clearance insert. I hope I get to see you do a review on the Harvey Router system you added on. Thanks for the video

[@joeysawdust]

I bought one of these two years ago for my SawStop - but I didn't install it since we were moving. I was really impressed by how heavy all of the parts were! So glad that you highlighted all of its attributes and enjoy it. I'll probably install mine by the end of the month. Thanks!!

[@TrevorDennis100]

But which month Joey? 😉

[@joeysawdust]

@@TrevorDennis100 Geez Trevor, you spotted my lack of commitment! Should be this month, I have all of the parts leaning against the SawStop!

[@GrowinAlaska]

My sharkguard works great on the Powermatic pm2000.

[@brantlers]

I’m a longtime viewer and love your stuff. I think you’d like to know that I, as just one viewer, really think your new backdrop is a real step backwards. Not fun to watch. Sort of like telling a friend you’ve got food on your face, nothing else. Thanks for what you do.

[@StumpyNubs]

It's not finished...

[@Yawles]

Nice explanation and demonstration.

[@woodificould]

This is really smart. Would be a nice added layer of security when teaching new ppl, just because i know that the table saw can feel very intimidating at first

[@olddawgdreaming5715]

Thanks James for the good information. Stay safe around there and keep up the great safety talks. Fred.

[@kevinsmith7697]

We had biesemier saw guards in our factory, very similar! Spent most of there time folded out of the way! Great for better dust collection for sure!🤔😎✌️🫡🇺🇸

[@JohnMoore]

Hi, Enjoy your videos, some of the best on wood working tools and techniques. Your video on the Shark S-12S was a “just what the doc ordered” and so I have looked into this further. I have one question that I can’t seem to get an answer from Harvey customer sales. Without getting into the details I have the need to position my table saw in two positions in the workshop that is 90 degrees at various times and so the S-12S is too heavy to make this adjustment easily. Therefore I’m considering/investigating mounting it from the ceiling. The question is can the shield be easily rotated 90 degrees. The answer seems to be yes but looking at the instruction manual they say I would need to remove the “knobs” which appears to be what holds it in set position, and Martin at Harvey keeps avoiding that part of my question (maybe I’m not explaining myself??). Having and using this tool first hand, do you see any issues.. ? Thanks, and keep up the excellent videos.. John.

[@StumpyNubs]

I am not sure I understand you, either. But I can say that the shroud assembly connects to the end of the horizontal arm at a sort of ball joint which, when the two knobs are loosened, allows the whole head to move in all directions (like your shoulder joint). It can turn, tilt, etc. Whether that, along with the fact the the horizontal arm itself can pivot on the vertical post, will give you the range of motion you need, I can not say.

[@JohnMoore]

Yeah, I understand that my situation is hard to picture, especially if I try and avoid writing a novel. Anyway, Martin (Harvey customer service) suggested that the “knobs” had to be completely removed to give me a 90 degree clockwise rotation, starting from the more traditional configuration as shown in videos and the manual. That did not make sense to me looking at the instruction manual and the available videos.. Any of that make sense.. If not, thanks for listening…

[@richard_vinson]

Thank you for sharing, this is really brilliant and it does inspire many design possibilities. I also have to say that I expected this to be much more expensive than it is. It's not cheap, but I don't believe they are making much if anything on this product and they could. They put a lot of design effort into this and it is a "Valuable" product beyond the cost. thanks again.

[@cdvaight]

I just got my HW110S-36P a few weeks ago. The provided guard and dust collector is good but I have seriously thinking of adding one of these. Thanks for sharing, I really appreciate your videos and advice.

[@artswri]

Great video, gives me ideas for what I could do within my budget. Thanks!!

[@robinfisher4990]

I love it. It would be the perfect companion to a saw stop. Safe first.

[@jtubach]

For a DIY option, one of those clear air condition vent covers would work really well as a dome. Added benefit is it can be removed easily with magnets

[@tomhorsley6566]

Don't the magnets mean whatever it is supposed to be guarding you from can also remove it on its way out?

[@richm9157]

I've been looking for a solution like this, thanks for the good explanation (once again). My blade guard/dust collection is attached to the riving knife, this looks much more flexible....

[@papaacorn9479]

Stumpy at 5pm on a Friday. Good way to start a weekend.

[@DejitaruJin]

Hah, what you described at the end was what I was contemplating through the first half of the video. I've got a big old cast iron saw, just new enough to use modern blades, but too old to have a splitter or guard; was just thinking how unnerving that is a couple days ago.

[@chaseholladay3781]

Would this guard work well for thin ripping?

[@vashxux]

Could I mount it on a wall or ceiling and have it pull/ swing down?

[@fbtool]

I built my own years ago from an issue of a woodworking magazine. It's not perfect, but it works and is much cheaper!

[@tomhorsley6566]

I've always wondered if there is some technique I've never seen to make a blade guard function when you need to set your fence close enough to the blade that it would run into the blade guard. Or is that one of the time you simply do without the guard?

[@StumpyNubs]

I don't know of any blade guard that works for rips closer than about an inch from the fence. The nice things about this one is you can just swing it out of the way, then swing it back in place.

[@knight4today]

This video reminds me of a question. Lately, I’ve seen an online obsession with track saws. Aren’t they just a circular saw with a guide? Whatever happened to snapping a chalk line? Or even clamping a straight edge to a piece to run your saw along. Seems like it’s a case of saving money by learning to use another tool right. But then again, maybe I’m missing something. You’re one of a few guys I feel like I actually learn from. (The other guy is old-fashioned hand tools only).

[@StumpyNubs]

There are definite benefits to a track saw. For one thing, the track can create a perfectly clean cut much easier than following a line by hand. The track can also be laid right on your mark without accounting for an offset, as you would with another type of guide. And the track's edge is designed with a strip to hold down the fibers and prevent tear-out along the edge of the cut. Finally, it is easier and safer to plunge-cut with a track saw. I am not saying anyone NEEDS a track saw, but it there is a reason people like them.

[@603storm]

Could you please post the make/model of the router table or a link.. Thanks.

[@StumpyNubs]

www.harveywoodworking.com/products/compass-router-table-system

[@RussGeneres]

I noticed your outfeed table in the video and searched your site for any info about it. Can you share anything about the construction and attachment of it with us? I have a similar fence rail on my tablesaw and it looks like something I'd like to investigate adding to mine. Thanks!

[@StumpyNubs]

That's an aftermarket attachment from Harvey.

[@sdoc3]

Thanks for yet another set of great tips. Out of curiosity, which cast iron top and router insert plate do you have on the side?

[@StumpyNubs]

www.harveywoodworking.com/products/compass-router-table-system

[@glencrandall7051]

At $850 it's pretty expensive. But from the looks of it in your video, it is constructed of very good material and the workmanship appears excellent. The design is brilliant. It looks like they covered all the bases. I think the price is right. Unfortunately there are still a lot of us that cannot shell out that much no mater how good it is. If you can afford it, then, in my opinion, the purchase is a no brainer. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂

[@johanneslaxell6641]

I don't know how it works in the States but here in our company when we calculate the risk/cost of injury 1000$ is "pocket change". As the salary keeps rolling that money is gone in a couple of days though the employee is home injured. Not to mention if the injury is permanent. If machines are used properly they should be safe: no exposed blades or rurning parts as chucks on drills/mills/lathes. Two weeks ago an insert broke in the lathe for me. It ripped the piece loose and without the chuckguard I might not be here. When a little larger pieces start to spin att 2000 rpm the forces become great and things happens quickly. I heard the insert break and the a big bang, no time to do anything...

[@glencrandall7051]

@@johanneslaxell6641 When it comes to a corporate expenditure I agree completely. But this video audience is primarily hobbyists. We treat our expenditures much differently than corporations.

[@johanneslaxell6641]

@@glencrandall7051 I have to admit that I find it challenging to fully grasp the english term "shop". It is used as one man "after work" fun, as well as in "full business". Many machines in similar videos are professional grade/size and would hardly be considered as hobbyuse here. That tablesaw for example, no one I know has the need/space to have something that big. I guess that is why I thought that the target was a professional audience, K don't know many who would pay 1000$ fof the whole saw... Thank you for straightening the curves out 👍🏼👍🏼🤗!

[@JasonTaylor1]

I just bought the saw stop floating blade guard and I don’t have to lift it just pushing stuck into it makes it retract

[@johnvodopija]

Great idea. I would need to make one as the shark is twice the cost of my table saw. Cheers 👍🇦🇺😎

[@chrissawyer2248]

JAMES! - IM GOING TO CUT MINE! 😅😢😬😰😱 wish me luck!! I bought the Harvey shark and I have a Laguna cabinet small with 36” to the right of the blade and a tiny garage shop. I just can’t place the long 60+” arm plus blade cover far enough away from the saw blade, or at an angle without taking up a massive amount of shop space. I’m about to take about 15” of the length of this shiny beautiful steel boom. 😱😱😱

[@ianwatkins3002]

Casual DIY did a video on a blade guard he built for his Evolution table saw. Worth a look for anyone who has a small contractor saw and a small budget 🙂

[@dougmanter8002]

I'll stick with my Sawstop. But, boy that thing is beautiful. Just like everything Harvey. I got that miter guage, and never regretted it.

[@PraxZimmerman]

I'd sooner have something that pivots down from the ceiling, but I can see some good ideas behind this. Do they sell just the head by itself?

[@ScottS360]

This video was a HUGE help in understanding just how massive Harvey's Shark overhead guard (and router table fence) are. I now understand why both products are so darned expensive! That said, I do wish that Harvey would expand their product lines to include overhead guards (and router table fences) that were a bit more affordable. When your product is making the SawStop alternative look cheap, you know there's room for improvement! Maybe versions that are less "universal" and designed specifically for their saws? Perhaps knowing precisely where the arm would mount could allow them to remove some degrees of freedom, thus lowering the price? They could also make a model sized for their 36" tables that might be lighter and cheaper to ship?

[@StumpyNubs]

Harvey saws come standard with a dust collection equipped blade guard (www.harveywoodworking.com/products/alpha-hw110lc-36p-10-cabinet-table-saw), which costs an extra $300 for a SawStop: www.rockler.com/sawstop-overarm-dust-collection-for-cns-table-saws

[@petem6503]

I use horizontal and vertical featherboards and a 28" push stick; never place my hand over the table while the blade is moving. Fingers happy.

[@SavageVoyageur]

A SawStop saw with a blade guard is all most people will need. Blade guard is the first defense, flesh sensing technology is secondary. 3 milliseconds and blade retracts. I really can’t see too many people buying this unless they are in a professional business.

[@StumpyNubs]

SawStop sells one of these for their saw.

[@derekc423]

I wonder how well it would work to stick a brush or silicon material around the border of the guard opening so that it captures more of the dust. Similar to what they put around CNC drill mounts to stop shavings from getting thrown. The brush material is easy to find and usually already has double stick tape on it. Usually called "door sweep" or "weather stripping brush". You could also try a clear silicon weatherstripping material.

[@dragonstonegemironworkscra4740]

Was thinking the same thing. Good I read your comment 1st! Better than I could have writing 🙏🏻🔥⚒️🧙🏼‍♂️

[@ex-nerd]

I've been pondering doing that on my SawStop arm. Works great for a CNC, so why not also on the table saw? I actually tested it it on some cuts recently with a bit of folded-over masking tape (I didn't need to move the guard for those cuts) and it made a noticeable difference in the amount of dust that escaped onto the top of the saw and into the air.

[@garrypalmer5014]

Could the post mount be fitted to the ceiling roof beam, and hang down, or is it only able to be fitted to the bench, surface.

[@StumpyNubs]

I suppose it could, but it may be too high.

[@417goose]

Wow - I like it. I have been looking for something like this, but never really found one that ticked the boxes. This seems to be the one

[@tonysheerness2427]

Looks very good, however if you were trip, hit it with your head knock it out of the way and then fell on the saw, is that a possibility?

[@StumpyNubs]

No, it can not swing forward, only backward.

[@elained9591]

It always amazes me that when steel prices drop they are slow to get the savings to the end user. $870 for the accessory and then another $159 for shipping is a bit high and I don’t have the proper table saw to even consider it yet. That being said, I like having all my fingers and think this is a cool upgrade!

[@AB-nu5we]

The Shark is pricey, but it's not unreasonable. It's price puts it consideration for my small shop. Thanks for the tip.

[@Psychlist1972]

The large dome is generally meant for a tilted-blade cut. The wheels should be in-line with the blade to ensure it always lifts up, even when just shaving a tiny bit off of the end of a cross-cut, while also minimizing how much space it takes up on the fence-side of the blade. This looks to be based on the types of guards Euro panel saws use, and incorporates some of the best features, and added better adjustment and the smart use of the tube for dust collection (my Felder didn't do that, but I 3d printed some adapters to make that the way it worked to avoid the additional hose) Having a blade guard which is independent of the blade and riving knife, and works with my dado blades, has been perfect to ensuring I leave it on and continue to use it. Also, these types of covers work best with flippable fences like what you have and what most euro saws have, so the fence can be put in the low position so it can get closer to the blade while still allowing the guard to be in place. That's actually the position I normally leave my fence in.

[@DAS-Machina]

Thank you for the video great information. You should know that I found the preview picture so disturbing I almost didn't watch the video.

[@markkielman4777]

HI Stumpy, how are you? I love your content and have learned so much off of you. I have an opportunity to get a General 50-200R M1 table saw but don't see much of anything out there about it. It seems like a really nice entry level cabinet table saw but wondered if you have any thoughts?

[@StumpyNubs]

I've never used one, but it looks like a decent saw. If the price is right, and the condition is good...

[@markkielman4777]

@@StumpyNubs cool, thanks, as always you are helpful!

[@csimet]

I was expecting that thing to cost much more and it is more reasonably priced than I thought. It is ~$850 on sale ($1000 normally). Still out of my league. I've been toying with a home-brew system that actually mounts to my shop ceiling for my saw that I had to remove the guard, because of the outfeed table and design of the guard mount (old Craftsman 113 - converted to a cabinet type saw). I have a basement shop with floor joists about 7' above, making it more convenient than attaching to the table or floor. Time will tell if I have the willpower to follow through and build it. ;) BTW... my converted saw looks almost like yours... same basic dimensions, router table to the right, etc., but my outfeed is 48x48" and covers nearly the entire back of the table (thus prevents mounting the original blade guard). I built a dust shroud around the exposed motor with 4" extraction for chips and cooling (again, eliminating the ability to re-mount the guard system).

[@torstenbehrendt870]

Just wondering how long it takes to cover the plastic dome in saw dust ..

[@StumpyNubs]

Wipe it with a fabric softener sheet once in a while and the dust won't stick to it.

[@NickGT1996]

I'd think some fine brush bristles on the bottom would help with the dust collection

[@kitchentimeinc]

A SAWSTOP brand saw is a great blade guard.

[@StumpyNubs]

I own a SawStop and their overhead blade guard that's similar to this one. This is definitely better, but the SawStop one is nice, too.

[@kitchentimeinc]

@@StumpyNubs the point was, there’s no need for one on a Sawstop.

[@kitchentimeinc]

@@StumpyNubs the blade guard is pretty redundant unless you key off the cartridge to cut plexi, Kenmetal, etc

[@StumpyNubs]

I still use my guard on my SawStop.

[@kitchentimeinc]

@@StumpyNubs But why? I’m on the bench about 30% of my day five days a week. I don’t know how you can stand having a guard on there. I even pull the riving knife.

[@keithcochran5664]

Seems like you could use an overhead type gantry as well to avoid your bench top work space. Depends on your shop, I suppose.

[@vmoutsop]

This thing is insane. OMG, it's huge!

[@johnlp3376]

Its nice looking but I had to save for year for my 3hp sawstop. I didn't even buy the over head dust collection. I took pvc pipe run it down my table 90 up then back down when I dont use my blade guard I just put pvc cap over it. It's nice but out of my price range. Heck I have pvc zip tied to my table saw lol

[@johnrice6793]

Another very well done and informative video. Again, thank you.

[@Simonfrios]

Will this fit on a 52" SawStop WITH the router table on the right hand side?

[@chrisgenovese8188]

this definitely gave me some DIY ideas! very cool!

[@jon2922]

Beyond it actually working the next most important part of any safety equipment is not getting in the way. My company bought 2 chuck guards for ours and maintenance's pedestal drills, I argued to modify ours in a way that made it slightly less protective but way easier to use, a year on and ours is still in use while the one in maintenance is partially broken and spends most of its time bypassed so it doesn't get in the way.

[@Suicaedere666]

Beauty accessory! Greta vid thabks Stumpy and Co:)

[@joejackson9214]

Can it be mounted to the ceiling?

[@Burnsalmighty]

As you were saying homemade version, I was looking at the pictures and thinking I could make a home made version. Seems like a issue to me that it's called "the shark guard" when there's already a company named Shark Guard that make guards for table saws.

[@andrewbieger5004]

Already posted a reply to another post before seeing yours about the Shark Guard. Actually have one on order.

[@billlarrabee9436]

Do they make it to fit a Shopsmith?

[@MrStrizver]

I've always wanted to make a spring-loaded extending arm that mounts to the ceiling to replace my Excalibur over-saw guard/dust collector. One day soon I'll do that. Until then, the Excalibur it is because I agree...having that blade guard is important. I think that I'd be annoyed with the Harvey implementation because of the lack of telescoping. When I need the guard out of the way I don't have to swing it, which makes it easier to--and therefore more likely--slide it back into place.

[@csimet]

Same here.

[@laurathornton5828]

Bless you Stumpy for all of your expertise! You explain everything so well!

[@Mtaalas]

These have been standard in high end table saws in Europe for a long time. Decades. USA really has long way to go. Riveting knives, fast blade stop after power off, various blade guards and regulation against dado stacks on consumer table saws are one of many things that we've gotten right here. Because our regulations try to prevent accidents, even if people might "grumble" about over reach or some such... if people aren't smart enough to protect themselves, we will make sure that every tool comes with the certain safety equipment and you have to CHOOSE not to use them or disable them. then it's completely on you. :)

[@tomwilson4027]

I would love to see one of these scaled down to a portable saw.

[@epeiusgarage]

Pretty cool! Wish I had room

[@michaelcurry8905]

James I noticed a bump when the workpiece you were feeding contacted the area ahead of the rear wheel of the guard. Is this something that could be adjusted away or is it a feature of the guard?

[@StumpyNubs]

I'm not sure what you mean unless you mean how the workpiece lifted the guard upwards. I explained that int he video. If you don't like that, just lift it by hand before you make the cut.

[@michaelcurry8905]

@@StumpyNubs I guess I wasn't clear. When you fed the workpiece into the guard the wheel on the leading edge of the guard smoothly lifted the guard so that it rode on the workpiece. But as the workpiece contacted the metal portion of the distant edge of the guard just before it reached the rear wheel the workpiece appeared (to me) to almost stop moving until the force you were applying to the workpiece overcame the resistance of the metal edge of the guard and lifted the distant wheel up and onto the workpiece. If you didn't notice the bump then I guess it's not an issue.

[@WrongTimeWatch]

That's a neat idea.

[@petersharp90]

I bought a Craftsman table saw and the riving knife didn't line up properly with the blade so i took the assembly off. Never used it again. That scares me to even think about - luckily all my fingers are in tact. Just bought a DeWalt table saw and the guard is staying on for sure.

[@hassanal-mosawi4235]

Thanks for sharing that

[@Francois_L_7933]

I've never seen anything like that! I really need to make one for my cheap saw.

[@wwmilanl]

The idea is great but for 1000 US$ (including shipping) you are getting in the terrain of better going to the SawStop, my opinion only.

[@Segphalt]

Actually costs more than the contractor saw stop and a contractor saw is all I have space for anyway.

[@du3lmaul3rs50]

​@@Segphalt I think he meant the SawStop that comes with their version of this same dust collection/blade guard

[@silverXnoise]

I could be wrong, but this seems like it’s targeted to production shops with expensive equipment and repetitive workflows that need to be done quickly by staff, not artisans working deliberately. That, or people with saws worth several thousand that aren’t going to trade “down” to a SawStop.

[@HortBlam]

Imo that’s not a bad price for what you’re getting. It also helps with not needing the sawstop in the first place.

[@contessa.adella]

So…some perspex over the blade, on a shaped carrier with two small roller wheels and a boom support. That is all Craft-able for fifty bucks or less. I guess its not aimed at Joey diy woodworker!