"What A HYPOCRITE!" - A YouTube Woodworker is EXPOSED!

[@StumpyNubs]

▼ *IMPORTANT DETAILS ABOUT VIDEO:* ▼ - Video that BUSTS blade guard myths: kzbin.info/www/bejne/j6qlY4ybpM2pmdk ★TAYLOR TOOLWORKS IS A SMALL FAMILY BUSINESS WORTH SUPPORTING★ They are also supporters of this channel who help keep our videos free. Please support them AND us by *bookmarking and using this link whenever you buy tools:* lddy.no/s80f *-3M Cubitron II Sanding discs: lddy.no/1hyoq* - Recent controversial video about table saw regulations regulations: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pKmunKh6mdqMgs0 *My Table Saw and Bandsaw are AWSOME! Check them out at Harvey Woodworking Machinery (Sponsor):* www.harveywoodworking.com/ *My hand tool collection includes premium tools from Bridge City Tool Works:* bridgecitytools.com/ *Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!* (If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission) *Some other useful links:* -Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/ -Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/ -Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE INEXPENSIVE TOOLS★ - #ISOtunes Hearing Protection (Save 10%): bit.ly/3BHYdH7 -123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij -Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK -Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv -Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9 -Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK -Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW -Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7 -Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak -Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI -Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3 -Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6 -Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13 -BOW Featherboards: amzn.to/430ldhv (If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission)

[@ChaosSwissroIl]

Censorship is pathetic. Stop censoring the comments.

[@StumpyNubs]

If I came to your workplace and was overly rude and abusive to you, you wouldn't stand there and listen to it. You would probably have me removed. This is my workplace. If you can't treat me and others with respect, you will be removed. If you think that's pathetic, then this isn't the place for you and you should go somewhere else where you will be happier.

[@groypersupreme2918]

Most of these people never even touched a powertool much less owned or used one.

[@KenFullman]

The problem I have with the blade guard on my saw is that it is a two man job to install. It hinges on the riving knife which stands taller than the blade. Unfortunately in the examples you gave (dados, non through cuts etc...) I have to remove the riving knife which involves: Remove the insert on the table top (two crosshead screws). Remove the bolt from the end of the blade arbour. lift out the blade. Locate a spanner on one of the bolts that holds the riving knife. Now climb underneath the table and locate the nut on the other end of that bolt. Now carefully undo that nut hoping that the spanner on the other end doesn't fall off that bolt. Then repeat the last three steps for the other bolt. These two bolts can now be removed, followed by the riving knife. To replace the riving knife is the reverse procedure but you will need someone to hold the spanner from on top of the table, while someone else climbs underneath to put the nuts on. It is technically possible to carry out this procedure without removing the blade, but the injuries to the knuckles are just not worth it.

[@karenkrone6156]

Thank you for all your videos, they are always thoughtful and so informative.

[@flguy7331]

"Then the internet will be happy and we'll only have polite, reasonable conversations about important topics." Best punchline ever in a woodworking video.

[@andygardiner6526]

sorry, my hilarity muscles are hurting! :-)

[@Goibniu001]

You forgot the ellipsis after "topics" to indicate the 1000 other words unspoken but indicated by the single eyebrow raise.🤨🤣

[@MyName-tb9oz]

That was... Beautiful. Really great delivery. ROFL!

[@emerybryant]

problem is. even if every single thing is done completely properly.the "trolls" will still find ways to attack or demean the content of the video. its sad.

[@petrushka1611]

*in any video.

[@calstatelaalproductions2358]

Wow. I didn’t think that previous video was all that controversial. Seemed pretty informative.

[@rayvanacore4889]

Same here but you will always get someone that will nitpick as he has used that film in many of his Utube films.

[@Oktokolo]

The video wasn't - the ad was. I too didn't see it the first time because SponsorBlock skipped it automatically.

[@joesmith1574]

There are a lot of keyboard warriors with nothing better to do then to nitpick everything, and I mean EVERYTHING!

[@Mighty_Atheismo]

Nothing more infuriating to the internet that information

[@tomm2519]

There are some people who are so hostile that they could walk into an empty room and start a fight; they are as drawn to the internet as moths to flames.

[@22busy43]

You’re one of the best content creators in the woodworking community. The other day I was cutting some plywood strips and stopped and thought “why am I not using the blade guard for this cut?” These gentle reminders are very useful.

[@grizzlyrider9649]

Agreed, I’m 40 years old started building houses with my dad when I was 11. We never had a guard on because it got in the way. Then we got Dewalt job site table saw and we cut the guard down to arriving knife which eliminates more than 99% of kickback But does not protect against other problems. I am going to find that card and put it right next to my saw and start using it. Thank you

[@MonkeyJedi99]

He calls himself a woodworker, but he is quite evidently flesh, bone and fluids.. An outrage!!! (sarcasm, because too many internet users can't figure that out by context...)

[@brucehansen7949]

​@@robertmceuen3630and tomorrow you'll remember why you took it off. I'm no expert but with proper equipment and proper use, there's no need for me to put the blade guard on ever, 80% of my cuts don't work with the guard on. He has links in this video description. The last one says bow featherboards. I recently bought the bow xt xtender fence and featherboards for $305 and I'm blown away at the quality of cuts I get. The featherboards prevent kickback and I use 2 push sticks so my hands never get withing 10" of the blade, for small cuts I shut off my saw before I grab my pieces. No need for that guard cuz what's the point of it when you have to remove it for certain cuts? Then your untrained when its out of the daily norm. Typing with all 10 fingers today and I don't believe that's gonna change for me. Also don't get complacent, cuz that's how folks die

[@SaltyChickenDip]

Safety reminders are extremely important. People role their eyes when they have to to a safety meeting but correct practice will always slow degrade

[@Oops-IMeantToDoThat]

​@@MonkeyJedi99in the immortal word of Wesley Crushers friends, bag of mostly water 🤣

[@jimblack5596]

I love that you are taking such a strong and fact based position on this topic. I have been woodworking (strictly amateur) for 40+ years. My table saw is a Craftsman, also 40+ years. While I have not been a fanatic about it, I almost always use the blade guard. One reason is that the splitter is part of the blade guard. So no guard, no splitter. I learned early on that it is wise to have a splitter. No doubt more modern saws have better guards that are easier to attach & remove, but it only takes a few moments to do so. I don’t really see why most woodworkers don’t use them. Maybe if more people watch your videos…

[@bobbray9666]

The best investment for quality cuts and safety at the table saw is a power feeder. You don't put your fingers at risk, kickback won't happen and your cuts on long boards will be better because you don't need to stop feeding the piece to reposition your hands, which can cause a nick that needs sanding out or worse if you slip. A riving knife is not needed but if the tension of a board prevents advancement by the wheels, just stick a shim in the board kerf after the blade. The best for making pieces for glue ups is a power feeder, where you need perfectly straight edges. When cutting plywood, the feeder puts downward pressure near the blade, which really helps for cutting 1/4" that isn't always flat. My 1/4HP feeder is mounted with Mag Switch magnets made for power feeders but that only works on cast iron table tops. Rips less than 1/1/2" can still work but the feeder needs to be behind the blade or the wheels will get destroyed. Better to make thin rips from wider boards with a thin rip guide. The only times I don't use my feeder is on less than 2' boards with rips less than about 4".

[@johnford7847]

I thought your "mandatory blade break" video was a well-rounded, reasoned presentation. And, as owner of a used, guardless table saw, I look forward to your aftermarket blade guard information. Thanks for sharing.

[@SuperDavidEF]

Same here.

[@fepatton]

Ditto

[@Bill-YellowDogWelding]

I will too.

[@mwoody4560]

Me too. I’ve got the same problem. I did solve one problem by using the MicroJig splitter. That really works, I’ve unintentionally tested it. I guess the next thing will be the floating blade guard. Just gotta save some more pennies. I’ll wait a little longer to see the video.

[@Beakerbite]

I have a guard but installing it severely limits my cut depth because it's so bulky. I'm curious if aftermarket can help since my saw is no longer sold.

[@johnnyb95678]

Sir, the comment, "the Internet will be happy and we'll only have polite, reasonable conversations about important topics" is just another shining example of why I follow you on KZbin. Your humor, directness, and open honest way of sharing information is refreshing and needed in this current environment. I applaud you for doing the follow up, even though my personal views are not wanted or needed here. Please continue the great work and sharing the great wealth of information you have. Thank you!

[@rjs2005]

I learned a valuable lesson about blade guards about a year ago. I'm a very occasional woodworker, using a DeWalt jobsite as my table saw. I was ripping a board while building a desk for my granddaugher- no blade guard and my push block laying on the workbench behind me, when my thumb made just the slightest contact with the blade, giving it a relatively minor cut- it frightened me like few other things. I shut down my saw, went over to my shop seat, sat down and regained my composure enough to tell my wife what I had just done, clean and bandaged the wound. After I gathered enough courage, I went back to my saw, installed the blade guard- pretty easy to do- and have used it ever since. Something I thought was a hindrance to using the saw is not- period. I'd love to have a SawStop saw, but I don't see myself spending that much money for one when other tools in my shop need upgrading (Porter-Cable tabletop jointer and planer, I'm looking at you!) Thanks for being an advocate for responsible power tool usage Stumpy, I should have listened to you before I tried to shorten my right thumb. Thank God I was unsuccesful.

[@bluewren65]

So glad the incident was minor. I have the same Dewalt jobsite saw. It's a good unit, but I never take the guard off. Honestly, the table saw is the only machine that truly terrifies me, and so I treat it with reverence and respect and concentrate on every cut. If I can do a cut on any other machine, such as a bandsaw, mitre saw or router, I will do it every time.

[@sferg9582]

When I was in high school, I enrolled in "Metal Shop". I was using a surface grinder without the teacher ever taking time to instruct me in the proper setup and taking safety into consideration. I took a narrow piece of steel and stood it up on the magnetic chuck and proceeded to grind the end of the piece. It wasn't ever going to stay there in the upright position and immediately took off across the room with a loud bang, taking out a huge chunk of the grinding wheel! That single incident spooked me sooooooooo bad that later in my professional career as a toolmaker, I hated working on surface grinders for a looooooong time after that. A close call like that is a serious wake-up to open your eyes to "what could have been", and safety with a proper setup and execution is paramount. Shortcuts will never be okay when working around machinery.

[@stevehenrickson5939]

Congratulations on avoiding a terrible injury. Grateful for your story because I think my experience level is similar, and one day my miter saw threw a small workpiece at me and scared me straight instead of injuring me.

[@chaunceyfeatherstone6209]

@@sferg9582 Same. Sliced a nice flat spot on inner side of the tip of my thumb -- while reaching for my push-stick. Oh, the irony. Shaved off a sliver of my nail too. Strangely, it grew back nice and round, complete with fingerprint. No scar. But it never regained sensation. My silent reminder.

[@Mighty_Atheismo]

That dewalt job saw blade guard is pretty swanky!! Glad you were able to dust off and get back in the shop. That woulda freaked me out too.

[@chris-C8]

My shop teacher taught us how to use the saw without the blade guard and riving knife. I honestly didn't realize it was a problem until I started watching your videos, which was a real eye opener. You are a big proponent of safety, and I've learned so much from the channel. Thank you!

[@hamptonwoodturnings]

My shop teacher did the same thing until my friend lost two fingers during class. All of a sudden he was giving entire classes on safety and every tool had its safety guards in place.

[@thegardenofeatin5965]

The table saws at the high school I went to did not have riving knives, one had a guard with a splitter. I did witness a kickback event that fortunately resulted in no amputations but the operator did catch the thrown board in the gut and caught a nasty bruise. He was cutting a long, narrow piece of plywood into short pieces, using the miter gauge with the fence as a length stop. He did not set up a stop block because "this isn't a cross cut because plywood doesn't have a grain direction." An educational moment, to be sure.

[@eloscuro704]

40 years ago, it was the same with my shop teacher. We had a 5HP Powermatic with a 16" blade. Back then, they didn't have riving knifes and the guards that came with even the industrial saws were complete garbage.

[@ThornOfCamor]

The blade guard/riving knife discussion never fails to amaze. It’s a standard safety device on any table saw here in Europe.

[@uNiels_Heart]

True, I don't think you're even allowed to sell them without those over here. However, as in general nobody will regularly come to your shop verifying you use them and there can be bosses with a strange mindset, unsafe use can still happen, unfortunately.

[@eloscuro704]

@@uNiels_Heart The US didn't require riving knifes until about 2011 or so, and none of the saws had one. Once they did, I bought one of the first ones available with one.

[@Cs13762]

they are standard in America too but a lot of people don't use them. I'll put it back on when i cut my first finger off. till then i'll be enjoying a nice view of the blade in the cut like everyone else I know.

[@jackwaycombe]

​​@@eloscuro704 I don't machine woodwork any more - too arthritic to trust myself. Over 40 years I had 2 tablesaws. Though they were both good quality, I felt it best to custom replace the 'safety' accessories on both of them. Offered advice recently on woodworking safety on another YT forum. Got more than a few sarcastic replies suggesting safe workshop practice was for pussies. More than happy to let such people get on with their applications for the Darwin Awards.

[@MrUbiquitousTech]

This isn't about that, it's about the blade *brakes*

[@JasonPatz]

The only noteworthy injury I've ever had working in my shop or in the field was tablesaw kickback. I had an aproximately 1'x1' piece of half inch plywood come spinning back into my stomach. The force of the blow was what I imagine getting hit with a golf club would feel like. The blunt edge of the plywood hit me hard enough to draw blood through my shirt. This was after it lost some momentum bouncing off the tablesaw fence and crushing the corner of the plywood. I'm so glad you are talking about this topic.

[@jtotheb-ip2hh]

had a similar event a couple years back, but it was 1/4" plywood and about 6" x 6" square. I had to cut several of them and was on my last one when I stopped paying attention. it came spinning back at me like a ninja throwing star and left a pretty good welt over my ribs. no blood fortunately. glad you're okay! stay safe.

[@ollieox9181]

That seems to be rite of passage for all real woodworkers - getting hit by kickback. I had a piece of 1/4" plywood hit me when I first tried out my new Ridgid tablesaw about 15 years ago. It hurt like a sob. And the bruise - wow! These things teach you respect for the machines and proper safety protocols. That and a few scars on the hands will do that.

[@Oops-IMeantToDoThat]

My saw always kicks back: the only thing I can think of is that the blade isn't exactly parallel to fence (cannot get it cooler than 0.01 off). Wouldn't think that would matter much, but... Watching YT, i started standing left of the blade path. Last weekend, cutting narrpw 2" 1/4 ply strips, the fence side piece was thrown 30 or 40ft behind me on each cut (length of stock was too short to be caught by the dewalt kickback claw). Blade guard was in place, so kick back was parallel, not thrown up. Amazing, rather than a big owie, but only because it's learned the stand left safety practice.

[@joeg2942]

Haters will hate, this is one of best channels on KZbin useful info without fluff, no buy from online store ect... And you remind me of my shop teacher, from fifty years ago, he was a great teacher as well.

[@bluewren65]

You had a teacher as nice as Stumpy 50 years ago? Lucky you. My husband had an insane woodworking teacher who used to say things like "wood doesn't grow on trees, you know!". He ended up sawing his thumb off while doing a band saw demo and refused to have it sewn back on because he wanted the workers compensation. The funniest thing was my husbands school report from him. It simply said "no comment". Hate to say it, but in terms of my husband's innate fine woodworking ability, I have to agree with him. 🤣

[@joeg2942]

@@bluewren65 I was lucky, the other shop teacher had missing fingers.

[@joeg2942]

@@christophersavignon4191 He still has to make a living, he tells you ahead of time if it's a promo. Others refere you to their store.

[@lgDukeCity5018]

@joeg I was not allowed to take shop, forced to take home ec. What a total waste.

[@constantinosschinas4503]

Previous video was 100% analytical, sensible, open to conversation. One of the best videos on this channel. Very surprised that people found it controversial, it was by far the direct opposite.

[@robertvermaak801]

I am surprised that you are surprised. Didn't you notice in his sanding he didn't wear sharkproof chainmail gloves full face shield or respirator ? And where is the CIA trained bodyguard? 😂😂😂

[@constantinosschinas4503]

@@robertvermaak801 What???? unsubscribing.

[@robertvermaak801]

@constantinosschinas4503 This is just pure reckless behavior , teaching other people to think for themselves. 😆

[@constantinosschinas4503]

@@robertvermaak801 how dare you!

[@MonkeyJedi99]

I don't know. Using something that reduces kickbacks is not going to make our corporate overlords happy. Not one bit.

[@willchoate7072]

My grandfather worked in a sawmill about 1963. A 2x4 kicked back and went through his chest. He turned to the guy beside him, his best friend, and said goodbye then fell down dead. I used to stand at the door of his little workshop and watch him. He wouldn't let me go inside. He said it was to dangerous.

[@johnbristol8498]

I'm sorry for your loss and should consider myself lucky. I once had a piece of wood kick back from my saw and hit me in the forearm. I thought my arm was broken, but was only very swollen and badly bruised. I was foolish and didn't have the guard in place.

[@davidtatum8682]

That's a badass exit move.

[@michaellenorgant5079]

Wow. That's an incredible story. I'm sorry you lost him that way. I've heard of injuries happening all the time but never would have thought there was enough force to do something like that. I think I'll put the guard back on. It's currently off, don't remember why, haven't used the saw in a little while.

[@victorhopper6774]

@@michaellenorgant5079 had a kickback so violent on my radial saw that it broke the cast iron part of the guard and hit the wood ceiling hard enough to leave a deep dent in it. when they say stand to the side of rip cuts they mean it, that was in 1975. i have learned all machines have a point where they are dangerous

[@fastbike9845]

@@michaellenorgant5079 I have a tablesaw with a 4kW motor (that's around 6 hp in old money). Think of the acceleration that amount of power can do to a small chunk of wood, and then the damage that piece of wood now travelling at 150mph will do to a human.

[@capt_beefheart4159]

50+ years as a professional and hobbyist woodworker (using a 1940s Delta Unisaw almost exclusively the entire time), and I support most everything said here. About 5 years ago, I cut myself on the tablesaw a couple of weeks after the worst (of less than a handful in 50 years) kickback I had ever experienced. As they were sewing up the tip of my thumb at urgent care, they discovered the multi-hued 6 in dia bruise on my stomach. Suddenly, my thumb wasn't so bad. My point is this: both incidents occurred within weeks of each other after a lifetime of experience. Both were serious, but I still have all of my thumb and didn't damage any internal organs. Along with PPE, which guards and stops effectively are, users need experience and education in using the equipment. Convincing people of this is the hardest thing to do, and videos like this are great for spreading tthe word. What's most important is to realize there's no "one size fits all" solution that *must* be used *all the time *. There's a lot to be said for good sense, experience, and education. One more thing and I'll get off the soapbox: if I'm going to do something and it occurs to me that it could be risky, I stop and think it through. I've found that if I ignore that thought, more often than not, something undesired happens.

[@georgedavall9449]

Great commment, and hope You have recovered! Stay safe

[@MissMolly3377]

The “stop and think about this” helped me, yesterday…I live in my old family home, and the ceilings have the ugly cardboard squares, well, one of my children had spilled some water upstairs a while ago so I had some that were coming loose, and now, I have some huge hornets building a nest very close to that spot….i have been trying for a few weeks now to get rid of them, but nothing seems to be working, anyway, they discovered that spot and started making it worse….they started coming into my kitchen…😮Anyway, all day I walked around trying to figure out how I was going to do what I had to do, alone, I was sweating just thinking about it, because if I screwed up, the whole nest would have come in, well, it finally hit me what to do, and I got it fixed, but had I just went in a without thinking, it could have been disastrous, for my ceiling and I may have been stung by a whole group of angry hornets. It’s fixed now, may not look pretty but we are safe, for now, and stopping and thinking is why we are safe. So, yes, stop and think about what you’re going to do before you do it. I don’t know a whole lot about home construction, but my brother had to fix a part of the ceiling for my mom, years ago, because it was sagging and he used washers and screws to fix it, the sag I had was much worse, thanks to the bees, but that is my own fault, I should have fixed it when I noticed it.

[@lesliemiller5980]

50 year retired millwork professional. The only time we had the guards on was if the OSHA inspector was coming. Stumpy is correct when he says that "kickback" is the most recurring injury accident. All the really bad finger cutting injuries I saw were on the band saws because the guard was too high. The table saw injuries occurred because of "chatter" as the work was not held down properly. This also applies to the shapers. After a few years I could hear a "kickback" about to happen. When I saw Stumpy push that board thru, I see no hold down at all. I preached this my whole career. Hold that work DOWN !!! And wax your saw !

[@brucehansen7949]

Great advice, I'm still a novice of 8 years wood working in my hobby time, and I learned after 3-4 years when kickback is about to occur and last 4+ years not once have I had any kickback at all. When that motor starts working harder, pull your wood back and push into the cut again. Either they don't know what they're doing or they get complacent, which I learned in the army that complacency gets people killed. So I'm serious about safety, every cut I make I make a mental note "don't be complacent, don't slop your way thru this, where are my 10 fingers before the cut and where are they after?" A table saw is no joke, I take mine seriously and no I don't use the guard cuz it sucks on my dewalt table saw, I take other precautions besides what I already mentioned, also i recommend getting the x bow fence and all the accessories, don't even need a jointer anymore since I got it. $300 same price for a fence as what I paid for the table saw and I'm getting absolutely beautiful cuts perfectly straight, the accessories (feather boards) help big time. They prevent kickback as well and keep my fingers far from the blade, I also use 2 push sticks which I rarely see on KZbin videos, just be sure your front of the cut is pressed down when using 2 sticks or it can kickback if you don't have featherboards. Done atleast 10,000 cuts without featherboards 2 push stick method not 1 kick back, so it's not complicated

[@rhetorical1488]

my shop teacher told us never stand directly behind your work being fed into a machine. He specified thickness planers and table saws as the main culprits for kickbacks and we got to watch the industrial accident videos to prove it. if its not your personal band saw its always too loose or tight lol.

[@costidisa]

​​@@brucehansen7949I am also a hobbyist (15yrs) but don't know that I agree with your "back the work out and feed it again" comment. First of all, many hold down devices like featherboards and anti-kickback pawls are designed to specifically stop the piece from backing out. If you're using any of those, they will make backing out difficult or impossible. You have to shut off saw and lift piece off or forward once blade stops spinning. Secondly, backing out while saw is running involves a 180deg change in direction which increases the likelihood of racking the piece and pinching the blade (especially without a riving knife but i try to always have that on except for very unique cuts). I choose to keep feeding forward but make slight adjustments. A safe pushstick, sharp/clean blade, and good force direction ensure the work piece stays on the fence straight (if you can't afford expensive Jessem stock guides etc). Riving knife takes care of inherent wood tension collapsing offcut on the blade. On large/deep cuts, ifbthe piece allows, I usually leave a little extra wood on a quick rough pass so precision isnt important, then make the precise final cut once the bulk is gone and kickback is far less likely because the offcut doesn't have the mass to pinch the blade. Slightly more waste but makes it easier, as long as you're not trying to perfectly match grain on a lamination etc. Using the right blade for the task also matters. Sometimes I have to fight my lazy impulse to "just use the blade that's on the saw" because I don't want to blade change. However, toothcounts and sharpness matter for different cuts and materials. The added benefit is reducing additional work later. For instance, a quality glueline rip blade cab significantly reduce, planing, sanding or clamping demands down the line if laminating.

[@thomaschandler4831]

Absolutely brother …. I use guides on the side of my wood as well as a hand held for the top … I have had kick back and was very very lucky it missed me 3 times … so I got safety equipment… and that solved that .

[@thomaschandler4831]

@@brucehansen7949I just got a brand new Dewalt table saw and a grizzly plainer … that table saw is awesome … I learned the way you did on the use of a table saw … now I do NOT rush my cuts … I push threw very slow … and I use guides and proper push tools … what a big difference…. Brother you are spot on 🏆👍☕️😁

[@MarkZart]

I thought I had the fence parallel to the blade on my Delta. My back porch is my ‘shop’, and after a kickback shattered a window 20’ away, I unplugged the saw and decided to mow the yard instead. Thanks for your sound advice 👍

[@alohadave]

When the universe tells you that you are done for the day, it's best to listen.

[@MarkZart]

@@alohadave and it’s a fine day when one learns to listen.

[@lgDukeCity5018]

@MarkZart Because there is no blade involved in mowing. right? 😆😆😉

[@MarkZart]

@@lgDukeCity5018 Living on the edge!

[@davidchristensen2572]

Wild what 1/10th of a degree will do isn't it? Those missiles are crazy.

[@guywhite1004]

I have an old Craftsman table saw, circa 1975, that came with a blade guard. In two moves with the saw and the rest of my tools I have misplaced or forgotten what I did with said blade guard. I have never been hurt by the blade and once with a minor kickback that hit my hand was more surprised than hurt. After watching your recent video, I plan to try and find my original blade guard or see if I can purchase one, new or second-hand, to stop tempting fate. 50 years of relative safety may just mean my turn is due. Thanks for restating the obvious for us woodworkers, both high grade and weekenders (like me).

[@joer5627]

I have my grandad’s 1964 Craftsman. Safety is between my ears. Grandad lost all safety features decades ago.

[@wayner806]

I too have a Crasftman 113 that I added a SharkGuard guard and splitter. I don’t use the saw enough to stay completely comfortable and felt it was a decent safety upgrade vs a new saw.

[@zaxmaxlax]

My grandad had a lumberyard in Brazil and was in the business since he was a child, never lost a finger. The secret is to always be scared of the machines. You guys have no ideia how hard exotic woods are, you cut them so slow the chances of kick back are minimal.

[@richardsorge-]

As always I praise Your wisdom and Your calmness. I use a Bosch TS and the process of installing/removing blade guard is a several minutes effort (it may seem tiny, but to non-woodworkers I must explain that You could end up doing it some 15/20 times in an otherwise enjoyable woodworking afternoon) . I use splitters and a well renowed adjustable push device. So far, so good. Many of my cuts would be IMPOSSIBLE with saw blade cover. Morale: make saw guard a thing that I can put on with the push of a button. It's 2024. Or Bosch thinks that 1200 € for a contractor saw is not enough ??

[@brucesannino6181]

My come to Jesus moment was on my router table rather than my table saw. I set up the cut ack-bass-wards. I won't bore you with the details. The first kick back snatched the timber out lf my hand and sent it across the shop. Hmm I thought. I need to hold it tighter. Second kick back. Damm I thought. I need to force the timber into the spinning bitt. Skip the rest. The middle finger of my right hand is now about about an eighth of an inch shorter than it use to be. My doctor, a fellow wood worker, said 'Table saw?' No I said, router table. THANK YOU FOR THE OUTSTANDING CONTRIBUTION TO US ALL. TELL THE NAY SAYERS TO GO JUMP.

[@georgedavall9449]

😯

[@bigdavemills]

Thanks Stumpy for keeping us abreast of regulatory issues we aren’t paying attention to!

[@-_.._._--_.-.-_-_-_-...-.-]

Yeah, they almost slipped it by right under our noses.

[@markgervais9094]

Found it! You put the paper on without showing the paddle trigger sander wasn't unplugged. Now the internet can remain the angry place we all know and love! ;)

[@yngndrw.]

Good catch!

[@pendarischneider]

Sigh! And here was me thinking it was the ungloved or otherwise at risk hand stabilising the wood. My best practice ambition has always been to have all the squishy bits behind and/or away from the tool, so clamping the piece while sanding would be the better demonstration. Otherwise the only real objection is that you are just so damn reasonable. It makes me feel less than perfect! 😉 Keep up the good work.

[@vallejokid1968]

I remember that video. People lost their proverbial crap over that one.

[@geoffb108]

I though he didn't have the wood safely clamped. Or maybe wasn't wearing safety gloves and a condom

[@OldPumpMan]

I thought it was just the act of sanding in general; damn I hate sanding sometimes😀.

[@mikemcgallicher]

Looking forward to the video on aftermarket/diy blade guards and riving knives. I've got an old Delta 36-640 that has sentimental value. Replacing that missing part would be half the cost of a new table saw.

[@finchworks7956]

As a 30 teacher of woodworking, my rule has been "always use A guard", which does not always mean the standard, OEM guard that comes with the saw, but usually it does. A push stick or block is also a "guard" in this context because it keeps fingers and hands out of the line of cut. The best OEM guard ever provided was the Delta Unisaw basket guard and "disappearing splitter". Your "floating "guard is similar. As you point out, kickback is by far more common than fingers touching the blade. Proper blade and fence alignment, blade height adjustment and the riving knife/splitter in place are the solution for this. You previous video was clear and concise. My problem is with the politicians and bureaucrats who think that requiring SawStop tech for everyone is going to "protect" all of us foolish woodworkers.

[@WarER4X]

I never appreciated how important ease of removal/installation of the blade guard is until I recently got a new saw. With my new saw, I can very quickly pop out the blade guard/riving knife (as a single assembly) and pop it back in without even removing the throat plate (it's a Harvey saw, like yours, so it has that little riving knife locking pin you can pull back with a finger through the hole in the throat plate). Now that I have that simple, little feature, I find myself more often putting the blade guard back in after taking it out for specific cuts, instead of like I used to do with my old saw where I would remove it never really put it back on for long periods of time. My old saw had the more typical process of removing the blade guard from the riving knife, removing the throat plate, unlocking the riving knife with a cam lever, repositioning the riving knife to the lower position (so that it would allow non-through cuts), relocking it, and putting the plate back in. With the new saw, I just pull back and turn the locking pin to the side (through the hole in the throat plate), pull out the blade guard/riving knife assembly, push in the new non-blade-guard riving knife, and turn back the locking pin so that it springs back into the lock position. That's it. It makes the transition noticeably easier.

[@oldmanjim4853]

I recently disposed of my 15 year old Ryobi table saw from Bunnings (Australia). I couldn't find any aftermarket riving knives that would fit and the one that came with it was wider than any blade I could seem to buy. I had to struggle to force timber past it, which would also push the incredibly bad fence away from the back of the blade. The fence was also that bad that it would flex from side to side, giving an inaccurate cut. I never really did feel safe with it out of the box, but the added issues after replacing the blade was the final straw. I bit the bullet and ripped it to bits and threw it in the bin. When I told my father-in-law that I threw it because of safety issues, he sneered at me. One of those "old timers" with the "it'll never happen to me" attitudes. But it wasn't his fingers on the line...

[@johnadamski4012]

🌲🍀🐾Should have sent it back to the manufacturer, and warned them not to put something that "resembles" a table saw back out on the market again! Or else🐾🍀🌲.

[@ratofvengence]

They are absolute crap. I've recently upgraded from cheaparse Aldi saw to a Hikoki, and DAMN its nice to use!

[@stephencorsaro954]

You can run across the street without looking at 2am because no one is driving but eventually someone will be and.....

[@uNiels_Heart]

I'm glad you're listening to your feeling of safety or lack thereof. It's like your subconscious telling you something.

[@Maltloaflegrande]

When steering wheel airbags were first introduced as standard fittings for new cars, someone from a road safety lobby suggested that what was needed on all steering wheels was not an airbag ready to inflate, but a 6" steel spike pointing directly at the driver's chest. The point being that the more safety measures provided, the greater risk of complacency or sheer recklessness. I've still got five digits on each hand, but since acquiring a sizeable scar on my right-hand third finger (still visible 37 years down the line) I'm far more focused when using any power tool, not just a bench saw.

[@alohadave]

Being proactive and working safely does not protect you from random accidents that aren't caused by your error. It seems rather draconian to suggest that someone else's mistake should mean that you get a spike in the chest. Bad things can happen even when you do everything correctly.

[@Maltloaflegrande]

@@alohadave I think that suggestion was intended to make a point rather than be a serious proposal. Of course safety measures are a good thing overall.

[@johndoe6032]

My main critique of Sawstop from the beginning is that it may create a false sense of security from all table saw dangers, most of all kickback. And that's why I really feel safer using my Gripper to be able to apply a good amount of pressure to the workpiece for a good clean cut while protecting my hands by putting space and a big chunky push block between me and the blade. Even if I had a Sawstop I would still want to use blade guards and nice push blocks like the gripper, which is why I feel it would really be a waste of money. The main danger left that I have to deal with is keeping away from the blade as it spins down after use. It would be nice if manufacturers would add a brake to the saws to stop the blade much faster after shutting off, and maybe some do already.

[@philshock3805]

Yeah, too bad there isn't a safety device that stops / retracts the blade if accidentally touched even while the blade is spinning down? Oh, wait ...

[@chrisschultz6129]

So we shouldn't drive cars with airbags because it creates a false sense of security? I get what you're saying; and you're not wrong; but I think anyone who can afford and wants a SS should buy one; and all woodworking businesses with employees who use a table saw should be mandated by their insurance carrier to use SS; but we should also be free to use something else. There's multiple ways of doing everything in woodworking so if something doesn't feel safe than use another method to accomplish your goal.

[@fins9584]

Aren't blade guards and the Gripper mutually exclusive? The Gripper is designed to straddle the blade, which would preclude using a guard. You can still use a riving knife or a splitter, but how would you use a guard?

[@coolbugfacts1234]

seatbelts in cars give drivers a false sense of security. we should repeal those laws and see how many peoples' lives are saved by not having to wear them!

[@bluewren65]

@@fins9584 I guess if you were ripping wide stock? I mostly use my gripper on my buzzer because I never take my table saw guard off.

[@johnzouse7397]

Your humility & honesty make you all the more a woodworker to appreciate. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@Killerator80]

I used my table saw twice, and now it sits in my garage holding up a box of cleaning supplies because that tool terrifies the hell out of me.

[@lgDukeCity5018]

@Killerator Sam here. Hand tools are slightly more friendly to your fingers.

[@edeaglehouse2221]

Keep watching this channel and eventually you will gain enough knowledge that you won't fear what you don't know because you'll know - how to use it safely. Use your brain and respect the tool.

[@petcatznz]

Watch this great channel to learn safe TS use techniques. Then go out and use your saw. Learn to respect it and not fear it, you’ll be just fine.

[@skippylippy547]

James, I appreciated your coverage. I don't know why people would get upset with you. Thank you for your channel. So much valuable content! ❤

[@StumpyNubs]

I bring it on myself to some extent :) But most of the time it's that they don't listen to what I am saying and instead run to the comments.

[@wayner806]

@@StumpyNubs At least you got a lot of algorithm exposure from the controversial episode. I love my Ridge Carbide 😉

[@HWPcville]

I've only had 1 kickback during my years of woodworking on my old 10" table saw. No harm was done but the way that piece of wood whizzed past me and up against the wall behind put the fear into me. I looked for a retro curf splitter but couldn't find anything that was workable so I fabricated my own. It works well (tilts with the blade) and I feel more confident when ripping. Thanks for posting you video. ps the splitter was fashioned with portions of a framing square.

[@planesandbikes7353]

Nothing but respect for this articulate informative wood working enthusiast. I am just a guy who uses a table saw occasionally for construction work. The saw is terrifying and I do not use a guard, but I always stand to the side. With any luck I won't need to use a table saw much at all in the future. I use a plunge cut track saw a lot more than the table saw nowadays, a wonderful invention that has become commonly available and solves the problems of both circular saw inaccuracy and table saw danger.

[@Jdorty]

"Who gets to decide what those times are? The user." EXACTLY. Thank you. Amen brother

[@leapinglemurcraftworks6426]

James - keep up the good content and remember, you can’t fix stupid. Honestly, in my opinion, the most unsafe thing you can do with a table saw is to use it when you are tired. Making that “one last cut” was how I had my first/only kickback accident. I’m lucky I didn’t lose fingers and only ended up with a nice bruise on my abdomen.

[@bluewren65]

Definitely stop way before you get to being tired. I also like to check that I'm paying attention constantly when doing repetitive cuts. I had to cut a whole lot of stickers on my mitre saw to put between boards for storage the other day and had to pull myself up because I started day dreaming during the process.

[@joer5627]

Amen! I found kickback hurts a bit on a last tired cut years ago on a cheap skill. That left a mark plus a hole in the sheetrock.

[@agmajor8993]

Aftermarket options will be much appreciated! I have an early 2000’s model Craftsman and the guard / splitter is not great. I’ve mostly used it with guard removed. Lately, I’ve been making cuts for projects that require more accuracy and precision and the lack of a good splitter/riving knife is creating a lot of post-cut work to clean up.

[@FalconwingAC]

Thanks Stumpy for all the great content!! Just have to add one comment... I found the 3M Cubitron Ad to be very abrasive! 😁

[@opendstudio7141]

😮Well, that was a cutting remark!

[@bruces6778]

What​ can we so to smooth this over?

[@ChiefTiff]

It certainly wore me down much quicker than the other Ad...

[@LYLEWOLD]

The Dad-joke force is strong with this one. :-)

[@brettchr777]

Fantastic content! Keep up the good work! You're the reason I re-installed my splitter on my saw. It's a low-end saw which it came with a "blade guard shaped device" (great description) that I threw away on day one, it was that pathetic. Big fan of push sticks and push shoes. I also approach every cut with the assumption that a kickback is always possible, so I plan for many "what if" situations to keep me safe around the most dangerous tool a typical homeowner might own.

[@jasonbower7763]

I have been using my table saw for almost 20 years. It is a solid and reliable piece of equipment, but It's a very old saw with no riving knife and no guard. I have been lucky throughout my career so far - but I am increasingly more and more scared of an accident happening. I would LOVE some information, knowledge, and instruction on how to go about acquiring or making some good after-market safety additions to old saws that have long been off the market.

[@MarkKelly1307]

You're one of my fav presenters! Cheers, Mark

[@dangre47]

👍

[@stephenj2014]

I'd love a D.I.Y guard video, I bought an ancient Rockwell Table saw that doesn't have a guard or riving knife :)

[@Simonfrios]

You're one of the best Woodworking teachers of this generation… I wish KZbinrs were able to ignore the haters

[@Sandman60077]

That's funny that people didn't understand why the blade guard would be taken off for an ad about the blade.

[@danbock9965]

My old Delta Unisaw (like many of us are using) came with a blade guard that was so much work to take on and off that I never put it on. I finally discovered Sharkguard who make aftermarket solutions. Most important to me is the riving knife. (Though it has to be manually adjusted because it is an add on device.) The Sharkguard setup also has a fantastic easy to remove blade guard with dust collection as well. I have all my fingers, but I know from over 25 years of woodworking just how much safer a saw with a riving knife is. The blade guard and dust collection are great added bonuses for me.

[@MarcusRefusius]

Bada Bing Bada Boom. Kickbacks often send people’s digits zinging off the blade as well. I’m a 68 year old ten fingered Woodworker who just YESTERDAY upgraded the on/off switch on my ancient Dewalt Rockwell #10. The second upgrade of the switch in the 30 years I’ve owned it. And I did it WITHOUT a mandate. I live in Californistan and I Vehemently oppose just about anything the Government tries to Mandate under the Guise of “it’s for your own good”. Because it practically never is anymore. It ALWAYS has $$$$$ attached. Money that costs US and enriches THEM. Cheers. Keep up the great content. I truly enjoy it. We’re never too old to learn.

[@dontfit6380]

Living in Californistan and opposing government mandates. Wow that has to be a full time job! I feel for you.

[@dansanger5340]

I don't like mandates, either. But, I understand why regulators often resort to them. Many if not most people simply don't behave rationally. Look at all the people destroying their lives with drugs, alcohol, gambling, or cigarettes. That's not rational. Look at all the people who don't save for retirement, even when they can afford it. That's not rational. Look at all the people who drive around recklessly, often without seatbelts. So, while I often cringe at intrusive regulations, I understand the people they are designed for.

[@dontfit6380]

@@dansanger5340 it’s nobody job to decide who behaves rationally. People went many years driving without seatbelts. Government CAFE standards caused manufacturers to lighten the vehicles to the point of you could get killed or maimed in a 30mph accident. This is why so many are hurt in vehicle accidents. The only reason seatbelts laws came about was for insurance companies. The government doesn’t give two 💩 about you. It’s only about power and money. When someone says should the government? The resounding answer should be NO

[@williambranham6249]

You can’t fix stupid.😳

[@MarcusRefusius]

⁠@@dansanger5340 So riddle me this then…..WHY are Cigarettes NOT a Schedule one Narcotic? They fit ALL the criteria. $$$$$$$$$$$$$ The Prosecutions RESTS your Honor!

[@jerrybadthings]

Appreciate the follow up, but just want to point out that flesh sensing tech would be an AND safety, not an OR. Really looking forward to the follow up with aftermarket options!

[@johndoe6032]

But it could give people a false sense of security if the wanted to do "just a quick cut" without a blade guard or push block. I've seen it in many YT woodworking videos.

[@Finwolven]

I recall the discussion about seat belts in cars, how they would 'lull drivers into false sense of security' and promote speeding... There's always major pushback against any regulation that mandates security technology that adds cost.

[@philshock3805]

@@johndoe6032 Seems many people who make that claim are those trying to justify the decision to not fork over for a SawStop. I bought a SS "just in case", not because I wanted to get lazy. A Sawstop is no more expensive than any other premium table saw but even if it was, it's still far cheaper than a trip to the ER.

[@coolbugfacts1234]

@@johndoe6032Do seatbelts cause people to be less careful when driving than if they didn't have seatbelts? Sure, absolutely. But you would have to be a complete ****ing moron to suggest seatbelts aren't useful or effective.

[@hatsuru-hito]

@@Finwolven Great point. Yes, this will increase prices. HOWEVER, if every table saw manufacturer were to implement the technology, the prices will not sky rocket. Are people really going to complain about a 200 dollar increase in price? Just save for the next two paychecks? If you don't have fingers chances are you're not going to get another paycheck, and you wont be able to support you or your family. few extra hundred is worth every penny.

[@monteglover4133]

Absolutely Thank You

[@peterbechard1900]

While I am not a wood worker or even a hobbyist I really enjoy your videos. Your videos are extremely informative and beneficial for anyone who watches them. I view others however, many times when I need further information I immediately go to your channel and end up getting clarity and understanding. Plus, you model how a person can always work to do better and are willing to address any mistakes you have made. You are an excellent educator. Keep up the great work.

[@markwheeler2669]

as a lifelong woodworker and Carpenter, you've done the best job explaining the balance between engineering and personal responsibility and part of that responsibility is training. Great job! keep it up.

[@robinyoutube7862]

I was shouting at the TV "where is his push stick!!!!!!!!!", but missed the missing blade guard. 🤣

[@StumpyNubs]

You don't engage the push stick until the end of the board is on top of the saw. I reach for it when that time comes, but the video cuts off before that.

[@Korgon2013]

What if my saw has neither? It’s too old….

[@billycox475]

I was thinking of that Steppenwolf song

[@dougggiereid]

@@Korgon2013 I have the same problem. See my comment above. A throat plate with splitter is the best I can do to improve kickback prevention, but no solution to the blade guard.

[@bluewren65]

@@Korgon2013 Time to trade up, my friend.

[@TheDevnul]

“Then the internet will be happy!”😂😂😂😂 Man! James, that was the best. Great content as per usual.

[@glenewing7174]

Please stop pointing out all the hazards of woodworking, I am an anesthetist and need all those Darwin award winners to stay in business over at the trauma center! Keep up the awesome job, Love this channel!

[@bonedaddy996]

Agreed. The idea of “you can’t fix stupid” provided me with a generous income for my entire career.

[@milttaylor3898]

As a LONG time Craftsman 113 table saw user and restorer, I have always used and lobbied to others to use the factory blade guard. The splitter and anti kick-back features are essential and one of the best ever designed. I know that you use a Sawstop brand table saw, but, most of the public use other brands. The vintage Craftsman table saw is probably the most popular (Due to excellent construction and durability). I applaude you for this and other SAFETY oriented videos. Thank You

[@2hokies395]

Thank you for your comments about bladeguards on less expensive saws. I have a lower end saw and the blade guard that came with it makes it impossible to even push a piece of wood through. So, I don't use it. I would use a blade guard if it didn't negatively impact my woodworking.

[@IronCreekSW26]

I agreed with your comments completely.

[@jagracershoestring609]

I had a wood work teacher at Grammar School who used to take chances whilst lecturing. After I left school, he cut his thumb right to the hand on the table saw. Amazingly, his predecessor did the same thing. Both died from long term effects of the injury.

[@JJFX-]

"Died from long term effects"... of cutting into your thumb with a table saw? What does that even mean?

[@jagracershoestring609]

@@JJFX- Cutting down the middle of the thumb, and dying later of blood poisoning due to foreign bodies in the blood. It was on his obituary.

[@JJFX-]

@@jagracershoestring609 Wow that's wild. Don't get me wrong, it's terrible but a lot of people have cut fingers completely off so it just seems crazy that both of them succumbed to such an injury.

[@jagracershoestring609]

@@JJFX- Yes it seems odd, but truth can also be odd. My old teacher also survived a crash in a WW2 bomber over Germany, and life in a Prisoner of war Camp. His predecessor survived the trenches of WW1.

[@MrUbiquitousTech]

@@JJFX- Yeah, some people don't use proper first aid. And sometimes they also won't go in for treatment for a "simple" injury (or illness), thereby letting it develop into something serious.

[@thamantimmy]

This is VERY SIMPLE. It's called control. I.E. "Safety Control." There's a hierarchy. Elimination, Substitution, Engineering Control, Administrative Control, PPE Work your way down the hierarchy. The higher you can add a safety Control to whatever tool(table saw) you are using, the better that safety Control will be. Most would agree that SawStop's tech falls under an engineering Control as do all other types of blade guards, riving knives...etc. However, as expressed in the video, when comparing engineering controls to one another, its obvious (in the case of a table saw) that a blade guard, which prevents the contact of flesh to a saw blade, is far superior to the saw stop technology, which activates when flesh touches a blade. It is simply the nature of how the safety device is engineered, and in which step of the process of a potential hazard it is implemented. Saw stops tech, in my opinion, falls under the category of PPE, even as advanced as it is. It is the epitome of the ABSOLUTE LAST line of safety defense in the cutting process on a table saw. I would much rather run a bladeguard that makes it impossible for flesh-to-blade contact than depend on sawstop's tech to work "in the event of." With that said, the flesh-to-blade tech has its place. It is wonderful to see the overall advancement in safety across the board. All cuts cannot be made in a perfect situation, in a perfect environment, and under perfect safety controls. It is more important to teach and express the aptitude of one's confidence and capabilities when using any type of hand, hydraulic, mechanical or power tool and which safety controls to implement for the task at hand. I will include this, instead of using/depending on all this reactive technology, why not teach the proactive planning and problem solving skills to tackle a project and then include the selection of the appropriate safety controls for each task at hand. EDUCATION is the first line of DEFENSE and always will be. Educate first.

[@MaakaSakuranbo]

"Superior" idk, makes it sound like it's a mutually exclusive thing? You can have both

[@5714sqd]

I started to learn about woodworking seventy five years ago. As a twelve year old starting shop, it was drilled into us that safety equipment must never be removed. It was there to protect us from ourselves. Blade guards are essential and should never be removed, except for operations that require their removal. Dadoe's for one although that is questionable In the USA Sawstop type saws are a requirement for business shops. And, Sawstop supplies a guard regardless of application. If they think it is a good idea, don't you think we should listen? Great video and sobering. By the way, I still have all my fingers.❤

[@MLSteffel]

Thank you for another informative video. As someone who junk picked his 3.5 hp table saw with No Riving Knife, I’d appreciate information about retrofitting one to an older saw. 😉

[@allan5721]

The internet will never be happy, polite, or reasonable.

[@rodterrell304]

Wow, people are so full of themselves. There will always be keyboard warriors that will comment on something they should be quiet about. Keep doing what you're doing sir.

[@georgedavall9449]

Human Nature

[@Xiphos0311]

not big big on introspection are you sport?

[@hagalazmultiverze3411]

We had OSHA inspector coming to a woodshop, saw the woodworker without hearing protection, pulled the main switch and started shouting. The woodworker looked up, looked at the inspector and pulled out a pad "Hi, I'm Henrik. I wad born deaf" He got a bad report "Woodworker, although deaf, not wearing hearing protection "

[@richardbrookins5406]

And that was the stupidity of the inspector. My main dealing with OSHA came after the tragic death of a contractor employee in a fall. The Jax office sent over an inspector for a falling death that did not know what 100% tie off ment. I had to take 3 employees from the job, have one put on a harness, and the other two stood there and acted as anchor points so the inspector would have an idea of what was supposed to be going on.

[@Bob1934-l6d]

Friend of mind that worked at a stamping plant. The company hired totally deaf people for jobs in the loudest area. OSHA fined them because the people were not wearing hearing protection. The Inspector even started yelling at this one guy who he claimed later was waving his hands at him. The inspector had no idea even after being told repeatedly that every one he was yelling at were deaf and they were hand signing him trying to communicate.

[@415volts]

Hi Stumpy - I agree - For info, In the UK, whatever you do in your own workshop is ultimately down to the person, but commercially there always has to to be a blade guard for this very reason. Dado cuts are legal here as long as you have a 'floating guard' We certainly can't sell any saws without a guard. I would never use a TS without a guard or riving knife. When I was involved with CE on USA Saws to Europe - your standard USA blade guards also didn't qualify as the plastic moulding wall thickness was too thin to meet the exact specs. needed. New 'heavier duty' guards were introduced for CE.

[@skyehagen5521]

Thank You James, I did watch this video when it first came out, and like you, I vowed to make it a habit to use a blade guard whenever possible. I also decided to keep track of the number of times that I could and could not use a blade guard. Everyone says that the majority of the time you can use a blade guard, but I haven't seen any statistics. So, for the past 4 months, here's the result. I used a blade guard 72% of the time. The majority of the times I could not was because I was not doing through cuts. Of course, this will vary for each woodworker. But for me, every fourth cut was without a guard. The number of times that I used either a guard or riving knife is almost 90%. I did find a couple of interesting problems while using the blade guard. I had difficulty when using a crosscut sled. And when using a sacrificial fence on my miter gauge. I only use the crosscut sled (a Dubby sled) for angled cuts. Because of that angle, and the height of the fence, the fence would push the guard into the blade. The other time was when I was using a sacrificial fence on my miter gauge. There the problem was with the design of the guard. It was the standard Powermatic guard. There is a little piece in the front that would ride over the fence on the miter gauge, then drop down. So, I couldn't pull the miter gauge back. In both cases, I had to manually lift the guard up. After a few times doing that, I just removed the guard and went with a riving knife. Basically, as you mention, guards need to be thoughtfully designed. I'm going to add a knob to the top of mine to make it safer to manually lift. I did look at the overhead guard (from Harvey) and wonder how well it would work with a sacrificial fence on a miter gauge. What it boils down to is what is the height of the mid-point of the front wheel to the bottom of the guard. This would give me the height difference allowed between my sacrificial fence height and the stock I am cutting. I think I'll ask Harvey that question.

[@cascadesouthernmodeltrains7547]

Back in Jr High we got a new wood shop teacher. The old wood shop teacher was also the metal shop teacher and since there was such a large demand for these 2 classes they hired a new guy. Day 1 second hour was my class. We went through the standard greetings and he was going over the safety of each machine. We were at the band saw and he told us not to force a piece of wood through the blade, especially with the grain, as some types of wood can split and your fingers may be in jeopardy. He was also saying to not put your fingers inline with the blade. Well he was demonstrating the saw and as a demonstration he forced the block through too fast, it split and he lost 3 fingers at the first knuckle. He balled his hand up in a fist, hid it behind his back and shut the saw off, told us to go back to our benches and he would be back soon. Well one kid seen the fingers on the saw, and we seen what he had for breakfast. A few minutes later the math teacher (ironically named Mr. Wood) came down to take over the class. We never did see that other teacher again, and I can’t even remember his name.

[@tianyi05]

Thank you for listening to your viewers and yourself. On of the diggest dangers in the shop is when you do things you know you shouldn't be doing but don't do.

[@jesusfreakster101]

I’ve learned a great deal from you, so your advice always is taken … I use a riving knife (thinned by a machinist to be 1/8”), a feather board, and micro - jig/push handles for every single cut I have ever made… I don’t use the provided saw shield because I can’t tolerate the lack of visibility. I will look into aftermarket options though, as I see the safety in it!!

[@chuckularone]

My table saw never had a blade guard. It is as old as I am. My mom got it for my dad for Christmas 4 days before I was born in 1966. What would you recommend to use as a removable blade guard?

[@SSBailey77845]

I’ve been a professional pilot for forty years and safety in the workplace was an ever day every hour fact of my life. I bought my Sawstop 3hp Professioanal Cabinet saw because of the safety features. Just as you said, I only rarely remove my blade guard and riving knife in only very specific and rare circumstances. As usual, your analysis and explanations are spot on! Keep up the good work….and ignore the trolls!

[@robbhawks2568]

In our commercial production shop, we have two tables saws. 1) 3 hp 220v Delta 2) Saw Stop. My son loves the Saw Stop. Me, the old man, not so much. We build custom sets and use all kinds of materials. One material we use often is a composite panel material used in the sign industry - Aluminum clad PVC. Those who know, know. The electrical difference immediately triggered the Saw Stop. There goes another $100, sigh. We use both. But for some things, the old Delta is the only way to go.

[@afanofdieselengines675]

You can bypass the sawstop safety mechanism if you are going to cut objects made of conductive material. The saw will even remind you that it is bypassed.

[@brentnicol6391]

As an adult working on machinery my entire years as a machinist and a woodworker after hours at home, you are responsible for your own safety and the safety of others around you. I have 2 rules in my home workshop. Rule nimber one, Safety comes first and second rule, obey the first one. Some cut can only be done without the guard. When in doubt, make a jig or fixture for your safety. That is my opinion. Thank you very much for all the years of informative videos.

[@rsr16593]

I appreciate you putting your money where your mouth is, so to speak. Taking the time and effort to address the trolls, much less the actual comments about safety and the much over-used (for filming purpose...or whatever), you continue to be the go-to source for information, safety, and the working person's source for tools. Your commitment to researching and providing alternates for retro-fitting old saws is amazing and I plan to check it out once released. I upgraded from a Ridgid 3650 with a blade guards and anti-kick back cawls to a Grizzly with neither. I've purchased other items to try and make my table saw safer, but look forward to your resourcefulness and sincere commitment to making woodworking safer.

[@concretealchemist]

I've had one table saw accident in 20+ years woodworking. I'd taken the blade guard off to cut a dado, bad mojo happened, and I ended up with my palm sliding across a 3/4" dado blade. I have a SawStop, and took only a tiny nick in my palm. Figure this one accident paid for the saw. This is the only brake cartridge I've ever replaced. Personally, I will always have a saw with some sort of stopping tech, and I would buy more tools that have this technology should they become available. With respect to blade guards, my experience with the floating type has been very positive. Find them far superior to the table-based guards. The extra vacuum support you get keeps dust and chips down, plus the guard design greatly reduces the chance for blade contact since you can use it with nearly every operation. At minimum people should look into the floating guard + a riving knife. Thanks for your vids, very helpful and informative.

[@wolverine1694]

I've never had issues with my table saw.... but I no longer use my radial arm....they are treacherous!!!!! Keep up the good work

[@Oops-IMeantToDoThat]

I just purchased the dewalt 7491rs (?) - i got tired of 5 minute fence alignment on every adjustment necessary on my previous (relatively new, but past return period :() saw. One thing I noticed on the dewalt (negatively) is how much of a hassle installing the guard is. Prior saw left the knife in place, with the guard detaching. Dewalt combined the guard and the knife into one unit. I deal with it, of course, but just goes to show no system is 100%. Luv your videos, Stumpy. I like how you cover pros, cos, and alternatives. Keto up the good work. PS i do miss the corny jokes from your earlier videos :)

[@jdwht2455]

Great video. I missed the one you referenced but will soon watch. As to using a blade guard - my 30+ year old JET saw came with a real piece of junk that is unusable for most cuts. It also came without a real riving knife, only the large and clunky guard apparatus. I've pulled the guard and made up a riving knife fastened to the guard's mount to prevent another kickback that nicely removed a finger nail and opened a large cut on my hand. Hope to see that guard video - hopefully a guard that can be attached to the saw body as my current tiny shop requires my it to be moved around on my saw cabinet.

[@michaelwebb4223]

Bought my first tablesaw a few months ago. 50's style craftsman 103. No splitter, knife, or blade guard option that doesn't cost at least twice as much as what I bought the saw for. Saving up for a delta now.

[@crazykittenvideos855]

I totally agree that cheap table saws have crappy guards. I am considering making my own as the plastic one that came with saw moved and touched the rotating saw blade and partially exploded! That is the thing meant to keep me safe. I have a healthy distrust of my table saw and keep fingers well clear. I still need to get round to making my first sled. Thanks for the videos, yours is a great channel!

[@ericberman4193]

The most important safety appliance is that one that is supposed to be located between one’s ears. Either you are properly taught how to “work safe”, and then responsibly proceed to do so, or you are/do not. I’m 74 and have been using table saws and radial arm saws (up to 20” diameter) for 60 years (after I was first taught the responsible and careful use thereof by my father). I’ve been using worm-drive skilsaws for 58 years (once again, after I was taught the responsible and careful use thereof by my father). Similarly, my younger brother was taught in the same manner when he reached the ages of 14 years and 16 years, respectively. We were taught to always remain “scared and respectful” of what those tools are capable of whenever one’s attention to safe operation is allowed to wander and those tools then used in a negligent manner. At the same time, we were also taught how to cross-cut, rip, dado, rabbet, and bevel in a cost-competitive, high-production mode. To this day, none of us nor anyone who ever worked for/under us has ever suffered an injury while using those pieces of equipment in either shop or field job site working environments. The SawStop technology is really pretty remarkable. My objection is not toward the technology which I applaud, but rather towards the mindless government bureaucrats who really have no idea of the manner in which inherently unsafe jobs are actually made safe and productive (and thus cost-competitive and hence economically valuable) by those who perform them on a daily basis. Nor are those same mindless bureaucrats capable of working a blue collar job where earning a living is dependent upon the individual taking self-responsibility for workplace safety for one’s self and those around him. I would like to see the SawStop technology adopted by the private sector and then allow private industry to competitively work to lower the cost to the consumer. At the same time, one other “safety” power appliance that I would really like to see more widely-adapted/used on lower-end table saws, is the powered stock feeder. Granted, those of us who are mechanically inclined can presently purchase a lower-end power feeder for about the same cost as a lower-end table saw, and then rig-up a suitable mounting, but not everyone is thus capable or inclined. What I really want is for the “marketplace” comprised of private enterprise and the consumer to develop and adopt the best equipment and not some mindless bureaucrat attempting to shove his/her personal misconceptions and agenda up our posteriors.

[@agomodern]

"adopted by the private sector" IE government force.

[@MichaelDean-n9y]

When I first started in woodworking almost 30 years ago I was taught to use feather boards and side hold arms which were pieces of hardwood that we would attach to our table to hold our pieces against the fence. We could run the blade into the feather board to keep the blade hidden. This all required making fences for the saws, but it did stop or a least slow the piece from shooting out of the saw.

[@andrealavigne7824]

I for one would LOVE to see after-market blade guard & riving knife options. I have an old Rigid table saw. I suppose it is considered a cabinet saw, as it's not a portable jobsite-style saw. There is no riving knife, though it does have a splitter. Unfortunately, said splitter is integrated with the blade guard (or vice versa, depending on how you look at it). So if I need to remove the blade guard, like to cut a groove or something, the splitter comes off with it. Since learning about riving knives, this has bothered me. Not to the point that I'll replace the saw, of course. Just to make me question the safety. So yes, please do a video on that. I don't know if I could fit an after-market riving knife on, but having some options at least to research would be good. And I trust your wisdom & recommendations completely. Thank you for all you do, & have a wonderful day! :)

[@suburban404]

Thanks Stumpy. I had a kickback yesterday but I was not behind the blade, but off to the side. You've taught me a lot!

[@ericsworkshop]

Great Response! I agreed with most of the points you made in your first video. Anyone who complained about not having a blade guard on an ad for saw blades clearly doesn't have anything better to do and should probably be ignored anyway. I'd love to see your suggestions for home made/ 3rd party guards. I have two table saws at home. One is a newer cheap dewalt portable saw and I love the blade guard on that and use it most of the time (sometimes I use the riving knife and push sticks for narrow rips). But, my main saw in the shop is an old 60's craftsman with a cast iron top. I love that saw but there is no way I can find to mount any sort of guard or riving knife to it. As a result, it mainly gets used for dados and cross cuts. Anyway, I'd like to see what you would suggest.

[@chipcromer]

I have been a woodworker for 49 years. I'm still with all 10 fingers. I have owned and operated large furniture, production factories, commercial cabinet shops and also I started with a little one man cabinet shop and now that I am 67 years old, it's just me again and a small 600-ft wood shop with a rockwool 10-in table saw and a t-square fence. I've had very few accidents in my life and I've only had one really bad mishap with an employee and he was improperly trained and it was an improper setup on a shaper. This made me very angry that the supervisor that trained and set him up did not teach him and did not make sure that that accident would not happen. As far as table saws go and most saws in the wood shop, one basic rules is keep the left hand on the left side of the blade. Keep the right hand on the right side of the blade. A lot of times when you cross over is when you have accidents. Another is to know your tool. Understand what causes kickback and avoid those situations. I don't believe in blade guards and I don't believe that every saw should have a break on it. I like the safety feature of a break, especially for people who are not that familiar with their equipment. But for me I wouldn't want one and I use my table saw for many other things than just cutting and ripping material. So the guards and other safety equipment hinders me and actually I believe would cause me to have an accident. I've had lots of kickback only one time. Did it surprise me the other times? I thought it probably will kick back and I got out of the way of it. I do use a push stick on anything that's narrow where my fingers are getting close. Twice I have Nick defenger and both times it was because I was angry and in a hurry that someone had cut the wrong parts and I was having to come back and correct it and I was not thinking and I wasn't calm. Both times that that happened were not bad enough to even go to a doctor. It just took a Band-Aid. So there's a lot of part-time woodworkers out there like and I'm really glad that people love working with wood and building things. I would just say listen to safety tips. Learn how to be careful. Use the guard if you need it. Get the saw stops if you can afford it and want it but don't mandate that for all of us please

[@familymanof6169]

I'm new to woodworking, about a year. I was working on a project the other day and when I turned on my table saw it threw the blade guard so hard that it went through the drywall 15 feet away. Although it wasn't a kick back per se it could have caused me serious damage if I had of been standing directly behind the blade. As you said we all make mistakes and this would have been a serious one. It was a simple mistake of not having the blade guard locked in correctly. DO NOT STAND BEHIND THE BLADE! EVER!

[@StumpyNubs]

You need to keep your tools in good working order and inspect them regularly.

[@leethorp2164]

One day I was on a job site and had to make some cuts on a table saw when I noticed that the contractor and architect and home owner and other VIPs were standing behind me. I waited for a good while until finally (humbly) asking them to move along. Taking out a bigwig from a kickback would not have helped my career.

[@michaelc3676]

I am relatively new to serious woodworking, I've used saws and tools for years though. My neighbor who is a REAL woodworker introduced me to wood working again. This friend was making a cut for a project I was working on, and after 50 years of woodworking without a serious mishap, sliced through his thumb.(no blade guard). My wife put on a tourniquet and I drove him to the emergency room. Thank goodness he didn't lose his thumb, the doc fixed him up, but even a 50 year vet can make a mistake too. I am adding my blade guard today.

[@jamesdavenport1143]

Clever way to make sure people watch your sponsor! Yay! Seriously, I came to this channel in the beginning to learn how to be safe with my first table saw. A Saw-Stop table saw. As many have said, including you, cutting something you did not want to cut is not the only danger of having a spinning sharp blade in your house.

[@whitebeard2407]

Great to see this emphasis on safety. We can only hope that other KZbin woodworkers follow your example as very few of them use blade guards on their table saws.

[@tcary1289]

James, I appreciate all the vids you have done with safety in mind. I'm a very part time, mostly self taught woodworker who can use all the help he can find. Thanks for giving us the benefit of your experience.

[@gardening-in-the-woods]

I have been using table saws for over 30 years and have only nicked a finger very slightly on the saw blade one time. The reason the mishap occurred was because I was very tired and unable to concentrate on my work. I was being careless. Now if I feel tired, and want to be in the shop, I spend my time cleaning up the shop or doing finishing or sanding. I recently purchased a Stallion dust collector/blade guard and use it whenever I can. But like you said, sometimes that is not possible.

[@aj383]

I agree with you. I know several people with digits amputated. All of them were woodworking incidents. Most of them were due to table saw kickback incidents. All of those say if they'd had a blade guard, they might still have their fingers, because the guard would have most likely covered the blade before the project came back down.

[@robertbruins894]

Well said, I recently made a comment on this saw stop topic saying that safety starts in the head not the tool, and I got all kinds of rude responses, so I feel your frustration. You’re doing a great job, keep it up.

[@martyvanord984]

You are not kidding about kick back! I was cutting something next to a city street that had a stop light and the wood flew about 30 feet and landed across the street. Many times a car would have been there. Thanks to random luck the street was empty. The force involved was amazing. Thankfully I was not in line with the missile. I had done this cut hundreds of times with no problem. A kick back was not even remotely expected.

[@lorinbilhorn5578]

Yes! Please help with usable guards for saws that came with clumsy poor fitting ones like my Delta Contractor saw. I do want to have a guard/riving knife that works.

[@keithcanfield3251]

Blade guards were not common decades ago when I learned to use a table saw. To this day I feel uneasy when I can't see the blade. Cutting very small pieces on an overpowered saw scares me the most.

[@ronaldadams3230]

Worked in a commercial shop, designer mostly builder some, for a few years. Never saw someone loose a digit but saw a few busted wrists. There was moving panel saw with an absurd motor that was use to cut 3" pedestal bases, prime culprit. As a builder I cut custom stuff on the table saw, used the guard unless cutting irregular objects. I will vote that blade guard is a no-fail protector. Also, people who are new to anything tend to be more cautious, only when we become comfortable do we do stupid things. Pilots with many hours generally are the ones that crash, not often ones with a few.

[@lefthandeddoghouse3586]

After 40 years of woodworking and tablesaw usage, the only two times I've had a kickback situation were both at times I had removed the bladeguard for other cuts and then neglected to put it back on - got in a little bit of a hurry and made my mistakes. I have an "ancient" tablesaw but the bladeguard provides very obvious separation between fingers, pushsticks, and the wood including those little teethy things that grab the wood just past the cut and lock the wood from coming back. I saw your add for what it was - something to show off the blade - not real "this is how I do woodworking all the time..." My tablesaw is pre-riving knife so I do worry about blade pinching from boards from time to time. I would very much like to see a vid on options to make my saw even safer - the see-through plastic blade cover on my bladeguard is in really bad shape and there is no way to replace that specific part (parts don't exist for my 40+ year-old saw). Thank you.

[@kenmulvihill1230]

I whole heartedly agree. Make it easier take the guard on and off the saw. I recently upgrade from my Ridgid contractor saw to a Grizzly hybrid saw (which is a fine machine btw) and the blade guard is more substantial and better built. However, the way the guard mounts to the riving knife is still a pain to use.

[@locomokko]

Love your passion on this topic. In the Data Center industry, there was legislation that was put in that required an "Emergency Power Off" switch. That sounds like a good idea right? It's not. That is because they didn't understand basic electrical safety. And focusing on electrical safety is the right thing in that case. All the EPO did was result in data center outages, and there are 0 instances of an EPO saving a person, and all the incidents resulted only in outages that should have never occurred. I'm with you 100%. My guard is in place any time it can be, and there are times when it cannot. I then take other precautions or I look for another way to accomplish the same thing. Thanks for your videos! Scott from Japan