Mustang 2 suspension problems

[@davidgreen9663]

I admire your determination and hard work. It looks like it's going to work great ! hopefully we'll get to see the finished project. Thanks !

[@ScottCiulei]

Lookin good. I cried a little when you cut those hats off.

[@snedenwerks]

Haha me too!

[@waynestock2006]

You could have just slotted the top plates that you manufactured and used a jack bolt on each side to make adjustments. That's the cool thing about hotrodding, there's a thousand ways to skin a cat, and it's always cool to see how someone else thought their way through it. Nice work!

[@David-rx5eo]

Your way of adjusting the caster and camber is much better than the way they came.

[@ivansheets5612]

Awesome video,,,, Thanks for the great idea ,,,, I’m going to do that on my 52 ,, also !!👍🏻👍🏻🏁

[@RichardCrawford-y2q]

Starting on mine today. You are saving me a lot of time figuring out the bad stuff on this front end. Sweet car by the way!

[@snedenwerks]

Nice! Good luck with your project

[@misterbulger]

Picking up an entire Mustang 2 1974 front suspension for FREE tomorrow... Its gonna bolt right into my Geo Metro's new frame rails for the V8 swap (I'm hoping anyway). I guess its getting a 302 now?! Gonna be SCARY. Was only gonna do a Honda FWD swap but when you get free parts you have to use them. Itll be well worth it in the end... I think I'll get most of this build done for free beyond a few pieces of steel stock and a drive shaft. Appreciate you helping me visualize everything.

[@1953fords]

I know you are past it now but speedway makes upper arms 7/8” narrower I had to use them on my set ups. Great video

[@marksanders1942]

Many years ago I did a Fat Man Fabrication Mustang II to a 51 Chevrolet sedan. It drove awesome. Wish I still had that car

[@daveshepherd8460]

I have the Fatman set up in my 51 Belair, installed as manufactured, yes doing the alignment was a pita. Wound up with 3.5 pos. caster. .2 pos. camber, 1/8 total toe. 93 Mustang GT power rack. Car handles great. Seems this a lot of work to simplify the alignment work.

[@jimbogallo6209]

The control arm shafts go to the rear of the bracket as in a Chevelle front suspension would've been a lot easier

[@davemoulding8799]

You should have bought a pair of Jose racing ball bearing upper control arms with needle bearing they are slotted left and right to get caster , we use them on race cars

[@gregmaggielipscomb9246]

Nice work, pls keep at it!

[@jembuildz]

It did cause you more work but now it’s a 1 off, of your design and in my opinion looks a hell of a lot more sturdy than relying on knurling and the clamping force of those t-bolts to keep you driving straight.

[@snedenwerks]

Thank you!

[@calewarner06]

The beast, dang that's looking good 👍

[@juliosandoval8244]

Dam looks clean iam about to get my mustang 2 clip on my 48 fleetline

[@puppygadget3189]

Great idea and well done. I'm just 8 minutes in.

[@puppygadget3189]

Does the steering tie rods need to run parallel with the bottom swing arm on a early about a 1964 Mustang II front end? This has the single swing arm on the bottom and dual tubular swing arms up top. It's on a pro-street car I bought that has bad bump steer starting at around 20 mph if the road is a bit bumpy. If I feather the throttle very slow it will go fine on the freeway and not bump steer but the second, I hit the throttle hard it wants to pitch the car off the road very violently. Just driving it does not pull and goes straight so very frustrating need to get it figured out and use the car. Took the front coil-overs off and tires then ran the swing arms up and down by hand and the steering wheel went back and forth. Sorry I just finished watching your video and see my tie rods need to run parallel with the lower swing arm.

[@brianhaw9398]

I understand your concern but Heidts and Ford must have thought about this a bit and if it's good enough for all the Mustangs,Pintos etc. that were on the road I think you're over thinking it. Looks good but...

[@snedenwerks]

Agree to disagree. That’s why a lot of higher end kits stay away from the T bolt style. Relying on knurled ends to hold alignment is not something I’m comfortable with. Especially the way I drive my cars.

[@jasonlynch1101]

Wish this was available when I did mine 😂, but my question for you is, my 52 has serious bump steer and loves to track the crown of the road. I've gone to the extent of lowering the LS pump pressure output and lowered my tie rod ends to where they are level with the lower control arms and it didn't help. What in your opinion can I do? Same kit as yours just not as modified. Thanks

[@larryssnova76]

What about the rack it’s going to hit the lower control arms

[@brianwv64]

what was the suspension kit that you said was better mounting than the Heidts?

[@charlescox6608]

Should have at least 5 to 10 degrees poss caster!!!

[@deejordan3309]

Where did you order your front clip from?

[@mlc_fab]

Did you use the stock height spindles, or the drop spindles?

[@snedenwerks]

I’m using 2” drop spindles

[@ericdiaz3053]

Do you know where i can find the sway bar I have the same kit

[@snedenwerks]

Ultimate ended up doing a custom torsion sway bar kit on mine so I don’t what would fit off the shelf.

[@robbypro3370]

Did you ever put a sway bar on it? Or is it fine without one?

[@snedenwerks]

I used/modified one to work from a G Body. I’m sure I have a video on it. I would definitely recommend some sort of swaybar for the front

[@robbypro3370]

@@snedenwerks ok, thanks

[@Zzzgott]

Just had the T bolts on the Heidts loosen up and destroy the knurled surfaces. The slot design for a heavy1956 chevy truck is garbage

[@snedenwerks]

Yikes. Sorry to hear that

[@wesleymason8064]

YOU OVER THINK IT, MADE IT COMPLICATED

[@charlescox6608]

Just make sure you have enough room for caster adj far more important !!!

[@snedenwerks]

Got it dialed. Thanks