My DIY Catamaran Engine Set-Up Is Complete!

plenty of 'summer solutions' in this episode. but I do get my engines ready for use!
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[@MerleNicholson]

Soldering wires together should never be done. It's for electronics, not for heavy current. Guess what happens when the wire is overheated? A crimped butt splice and heat shrink over is the only way, but it's best to replace the entire length with proper marine tinned wire, no splices. The black on the copper is oxidation and should be cut away. The oxidation is evidence of what a marine environment does to copper wire and the reason to use a tinned conductor. I know saving money is essential, but so is a running engine. Keep going, you're an inspiration for everyone.

[@Die_Wahr_Saga]

yeep that is how i learned aswell ... too much heat can melt into a mess

[@eliotsell7483]

Look into big battery cable crimpers and big butt joint connector and waterproof heat shrink like mentioned above. Solder joints will break over time and shouldn't be used in motor in vehicles.

[@laurieherrick3654]

Can you please say the word dingy ,at least once in your videos. For some reason I luv how you say it.

[@kristofferappelquist6851]

@@laurieherrick3654 + 1 on that! Or even more so: Make your mum say it when she´s on!

[@jamesvaiciulis2947]

I’ll say, your life is more important than time or money, easygoing with the rest of the build my friend. No hurries. Take your time and ask for help. Nice project, look forward to continually watching the rest of the build. Be Safe,

I would like to seriously recomend, you tab your bulkhead repair in with glassfiber mats and epoxy. Waves will send shockwaves through your hulls and I would think it is better to over engineer things. For the rest great job!

[@gregsaunders9472]

Yes

[@sail4life]

Absolutely! This critical joint should have been scarfed, but taping both sides with biax would be better than nothing.

[@jfv65]

I totally agree. Such a bulkhead is load bearing and that repair needs to be BEEFY.

[@MrSychnant]

Third this !

[@rows3063]

Just to repeat what others have said, that bulkhead repair really should be glassed to the hull & original bulkhead above & below. An utter ball ache I know, having done such a visually neat repair. So sorry to be the bearer of bad news!! A dirty but better than what you’ve done: 1. 60 grit sanding disk on the angle grinder & carefully remove the 1st veneer of the ply 2 - 3” above and below your horizontal repair lines. (Possibly 1.5 - 2 veneers depending on thickness of plies) 2. Whatever glass cloth you’ve got lying around cut to length so that it starts near the hull, wraps around inboard edge & then back to hull on the opposite side. 3 layers, each a little wider than the last, with the final one being the full width of the ground out area. 3. Leave to cure, sand & fair. 4. Drink beer / wine & sit back and admire handiwork, knowing it’s not going to pop out when you least expect it!! Other than that, great video as usual & so glad the new laptop arrived in time for this weeks episode!!

[@billforest6666]

Mark, I am afraid the comments indicating the bulkhead will pull away from the splice are correct. On the inboard side add a vertical tab say 150 mm that extends well past the part you added back in. You should go as far past the new material as you can. I would match the curve at the bottom so it will look like it was meant to be there. A good connection on the faying surfaces at the existing bulkhead will prevent the bulkhead buckling from pressure, and more likely, pulling apart when the part is in tension, which absolutely will happen. It won't even take a heavy sea at all to break apart. I am a former structural designer for a professional engineer, and I my experience tells me this needs to be addressed before leaving the dock. I hate it because your repair looked so nice, but you can reinforce your repair and it will look meant to be that way. Great job so far. When you got the swamp creature, I thought she was actually in better shape than she was, but you had the vision to see it for what it could be, and you are turning her into a real boat. You have the gumption to back up and redo, and that is such an admirable attitude. I have so enjoyed watching your journey.

[@adamdva]

I pray he sees this comment and improves that bulkhead

[@Spoilerizzz]

Can he use puzzle joint in this place.

[@SpecialTBK]

He ignores most good advice and likes comments that aren’t.

[@nunabiz]

I have to say " I have never seen anyone trying to clean the ends of old wire. Usually they just cut off the bad end!

[@ebaab9913]

Old tech here; When you are forced to clean copper wire to join, you can use H2SO4, Sulfuric acid in a dilute form. I usually just get a little acid out of a Lead Acid battey.

[@izzzzzz6]

@@ebaab9913 can you use vinegar?

[@alexanderkielczynski2437]

@@izzzzzz6 yep

[@stephanetarte9425]

In fact, the wires are not dirty. They are oxidized, and solder won't work without a very good acid rosin flux. You should have cut the end of the cables and started new or look for mechanical solder slices. Tyco or Raycheon should have exactly what you need. Remember, bad electrical connections are potential fire hazards

[@ebaab9913]

Acid rosin flux is another alternative, and vinegar does work, but not as well as dilute Sulfuric acid. The copper become shiny brite after treatment. I am an expert at soldering but would not have soldered that joint. I would have crimped it. I find that any movement in soldered joints can cause the fine wires to break off. I am in the electronic service industry.

[@Chr.U.Cas1622]

😁😁😁 Those talking ducks are so funny and cute. Great idea. 👍👌👏 First time I heard about Weetabix was in one of those fantastic Wallace and Gromit cartoons many years ago.

[@nigelluke6078]

Hey Mark, my second comment this week! The black stuff inside your engine cable means that water has got in there some time in the past. Unless you use tinned cable(and outboard manufacturers don't) water can wick its way all along the wire until it gets to a low point and then it slowly rots away the wire on the inside where you can't see it. My boat is now 30 years old and since i discovered this i have changed all my exterior wires to tinned and am slowly doing the inside ones.

[@sail4life]

Tinned is the only way to go on a boat!

[@haydo8373]

How flexible is the tinned wire?

[@nigelluke6078]

If you use a good marine tinned wire like ocean flex it's very flexible

[@chrisoakey9841]

You can dip the end in acetone. To clean before soldering and sealing.

[@markthomasson5077]

Mine as well

[@philippw1971]

As an electrician I am a little concerned about your current wiring skills. Please use fuses next to the battery on the positive wires. And spend some money on some proper crimp terminals and connectors together with a proper crimping pliers. Seeing 15V coming from the outboard, this will fry you battery. So yes you might need a voltage regulator.

[@davidfoote9582]

Recommendation for cables. Use tinned cable, helps prevent corrosion. Join cables with a crimped ferrule not solder and cover with heat shrink that has glue inside. The glued heat shrink will give a watertight seal.

[@ChrisLee66]

Your occasional friends that show up for treats just make the videos dam near perfect.

[@andrewwilliams7508]

Don’t solder cables in a marine environment. The solder breaks down and causes loss connections . Only crimp and cover with heat shrink. I would recommend you redo these in the near future.

[@tyiu5629]

Agree

[@MH-gb5ky]

And there is a second problem: In order to solder such thick copper cables decently, you need to bring in so much heat that the insulation material will get burnt. This happens because copper conducts heat very well- you will literally heat up at least 10 or 15 cm of that cable in both directions in the process of soldering this connection. That's why most people prefer to crimp such diameters. But for that, you would need a better crimping device than what you used in this video.

[@McTickles777]

Hotshrink should take care of that. And if you use a butane, it should heat up fast enough that it won't eff the insulation as much.

[@NomadSurvivor]

Agreeed Never Solder heavy wire like that. There is a dozen ways to join 1/0 for under $10 safely to last.

[@NomadSurvivor]

Ps. Your Engine is Not Overcharging. It is supposed to charge that voltage. 13-15v is normal and it will not hurt that battery or little alternator on the engine.

[@andysutils]

You need an airmat anti bac underlay for your mattress condensation. That's caused by body heat transfer.

[@markbarry1977]

Mark, first off great video as always. I’m an Avionics engineer in the RAF, so wiring and electronics are my profession. First off, the black cable ends need cutting back until clean cable is found. Second, I would crimp cables in an external environment, there are plenty of hermetically sealed crimps out there to choose from. Third, I didn’t notice in the video but where is your circuit protection (fuse / circuit breaker) and battery isolation switch to kill power in an emergency.You may have done it but not showed on the video. As you wire more and more systems in to the boat you might be better going to a bus bar system now rather than later with individual circuit switching. I’m sure you aware of this though.

[@PAINFOOL13]

You can learn from trying . Keep up the great work 👍🏻

[@SamuelKTennis]

That flat bladed vibrator (MultiTool?) you are using is one I have never (personally) experienced. I must be less than several decades old... I remember when the 'saws-all' was new. Hell, I remember when the 'SkillSaw' (not Circular Saw) was new... I watch and I try to think that I could do something - nay ANYTHING - better than you and then I have to just settle back in admiration. How proud your parents must feel. Thank you, kind sir. You are truly an inspiration.

[@boooshes]

Great video, including music 🎵. Suggestions 1) purchase two marine batteries, one for each outboard - they can be wired each directly to a motor with no further regulation required. You then have two starter batteries which gives you redundancy. Wire your charging for the house battery off the starter batteries through an appropriate regulator that also isolates the house battery. You now have three batteries that each could double for starter or house in a pinch. 2) to guarantee bulkhead strength, epoxy a doubler on the back side across the patch and onto original bulkhead material - this should be easier and stronger than multiple layers of glass work. 3) find proper pretinned cable for your engine electrical connections as well as any future house wiring. Like your experience purchasing the used motors, you will not regret doing it right the first time. No splices unless absolutely needed. Only proper waterproof crimp connections. Your future self will thank you.

[@peterbailey6722]

Some good comments to read there Mark what a great way to learn, the thing is mate your not the only one learning here, we do to and really appreciate the advice from people all over the world the knowledge is definitely universal cheers mate

[@TA-bs1hr]

Your epoxy work looks better than many professionals I have seen. That is really really nice! 1. Bulkhead has also pull forces not only push. So you really need also fiberglass. 2. When soldering don’t rotate the threads just push them together. 3. Allways use electric tape first around the solder and then heat shrink. The wires will come through the shrink and create possible short circuit.

[@michaelroberts6299]

Scarf don't but joint use spoon for coving, tin your slder tip

[@Marco-ip5cw]

dont solder in marine enviroments itll crack and u wont know whats wrong

[@SpecialTBK]

Use some strands of wire to hold the spliced join together also.

[@gnydam]

Lots of 12v portable refrigeration products on the market these days. One of those would be easily handled by your power supply. Presto all the ice you want and keep the groceries cold.

[@fonhollohan2908]

Your getting there Mark, little by little bit by bit. You may think! it's all boring to you due to the fact you think you haven't made much progress nevertheless I enjoy watching whatever progress you make. so don't be so hard on yourself, at least you got a video put out, so that we could have something to watch. LOL

[@liamegan4303]

Hi Mark. You're becoming a great hand at the Carpentry, nice job bro. I know nothing about electrics but I wish you well mate. She is coming along brilliantly. I can't believe that it's been a year since you first saw this boat, and you were stuck in that crappy pond, lol. What a difference a year makes. Keep it up, Mark, we are all egging you on over here in Ireland. 💯👏👏👌🇮🇪

[@twoeagledrones]

As an Old Jazz drummer…your choice of music is always the best! Cheers

[@travelbugse2829]

I kept thinking of the Fast Show - Jazz Club with Louis Balfour...

[@robertgray323]

Great work mark! Always looking forward to seeing your progress

[@arthurme1911]

Mark from day 1 when I started watching you you have come a long way your doing great. Keep learning

[@dillipphunbar7924]

It;s encouraging to know people and companies are helping. You're doing gr8.

[@wardmacintyre1797]

Probably others have commented before, it’s been really cool watching your progression from a relative novice to well on your way to becoming a craftsman, of many trades….just a few….carpentry, fiberglass, coatings application, (sanding… maybe not a skill but shows perseverance), engine mechanics, metal fabrication, now electrical, soon rigging-project manager, materials sourcing, film production, editing. Dang. Good luck getting her sailing this summer! And Thanks!

[@nigelluke6078]

Hi Mark, i love your channel and i have a couple of suggestions for you. Number one is your mattress. Big chandlers sell a couple of different types of stuff which you put under the mattress to stop the moisture damaging it. You will still get water under that but if you regularly dry it out you wont ruin the mattress and it wont feel damp(and you won't get mould!) Also, i would either glue ply over the join in your bulkhead or what i would do, glass both sides with something like 2 layers of 450grm cloth and epoxy. Butt joints are not going to be strong enough. The good news is, you have done a good job so far, just needs finishing and fairing. Do it now, a gale at sea is no time to be worrying about it 😊

[@Davids_coolas]

Yeah I agree glass matt past the joint 300mm both sides great job otherwise love the videos

[@licencetoswill]

yep, that would finish the job. that join needs to be a bit beefier.

[@DominicNSX]

You cut the bulkhead, now you need to fibreglass the patch to make the bulkhead strong again, do not compromise!

[@cherylsibson2529]

The advantage of knowing your boat so well, will be the advantage on the high seas, then you'll have the gear to fix it on the fly! Can't wait to see you sail!

[@lawrencejones1517]

You never 'clean' old wire. Clip it off about 5mm to 1 cm into the insulation, then strip the insulation off the unexposed wire. The reason you do this is because the exposed section will not conduct as well, especially in a marine environment. And by the way, this episode's soundtrack really works!

[@sarahmanalapan8443]

Yeah im on the fence about some of the other practices. Full lenghts no splicing etc. Cleaning the wires was a fopa to me. Just seems like bad practice to me.

[@meofnz2320]

The negative oxidation can extend quite a way up the wire. If it’s not going to be replaced I’d just clean and crimp it.

[@chrisoakey9841]

you can clean and then tin the wires. a bit of acetone will usually work. so long as you clean it well the flux and heat should finish for a nice secure soldered connection. heating the wire is vital. i will heat for a while then dap solder onto the iron to get it flowing, but once it starts, keep feeding solder onto the joint, not the iron. and heat shrink after.

[@kevinturner8343]

@@sarahmanalapan8443I was trying to work out what “fopa” was an acronym for then realised maybe it was shorthand for “faux pas” - am I right? 🤔

[@SpecialTBK]

That wire cancer probably goes 100mm up the cable.

[@blackbirdxx4613]

Mark in my opinion you should get a proper marine electrian to wire everything up

[@DaveSteamengine]

Hi Mark, I'm really enjoying following your progress and the way you communicate, thank you 👍 A bit of input from me on your batteries, if they're deep cycle 12v lead acid batteries, each 12v battery can float happliy, continuously on 13.6v "This voltage will maintain the full charge condition in the battery without boiling your electrolyte or overcharging the battery" If you're maintaining over this voltage, I suggest you regulate the input voltage. Another tip is a thin smear of petroleum jelly (from supermarket) on any exposed metal of the battery terminals and clamps. This will help control corrosion. Cheers, Dave

[@DWilliams-ce8nb]

Mark will know every square inch of this boat. HUGE advantage for a sailor heading out to the open sea!

[@SpecialTBK]

When it starts breaking up, he’ll know exactly where he should not have taken shortcuts- ie; bulkhead.

[@AlanJones-z4l]

I enjoy watching you learn new things. Your names for some things are funny. Your doing a great job!

[@1datsunlover]

You are one of my 2 favorite sailing channels. That said, if you got a nickel every time I said "Gawd I hate smooth jazz.", while I watched this, you could be running 2 brand new Honda 9.9 4 strokes with extended warranties. Every other kind of music, almost, even obnoxious jazz, (like tape 5) I don't mind, at all (love those guys, actually). However, it would take much worse things than elevator music to keep me from watching, liking, and sometimes commenting encouraging things on your videos. Keep up the good work. You are a credit to your generation. Just, smooth jazz makes me feel violent, that's all.

[@dherman0001]

Here in the US, they sell what we call "crackhead lighters" at most urban gas stations/tobacco shops, that can be used as a small torch to solder with.

[@videotrexx]

The music you play is always fine and the level relative to when you're narrating is perfect, unlike so many YT channels where the music is WAY too loud.

[@KhafidIbrahim]

Your epoxy skills have improved tremendously. 👍

[@andyleclercq8026]

I really like the honesty in your videos. You’re quite happy to share your cock ups with everyone. You’ve been on a massive learning curve and there are always people willing to give you advice (some good some bordering on the nasty). Stay true to yourself and your dreams will come true soon enough. Hats off to your parents. Andy on the wonderful Island of Alderney. Come visit us when you can.

[@howardtennant5766]

Well done keep up the great work , Making mistakes is part of the learning process unfortunately , Despite it all your doing ok

[@LPay-jy8mx]

Mark, it's a pleasure to witness as your woodworking tool skills keep improving, well done! My favorite part was the coot (and her chick) who know that you have not only good food on board, but also a kind heart to share it (and also storytelling skills to make this episode so much more damn charming). :) Lee

[@proknifesharpening]

Your boat is coming along so well, it's very impressive!

[@Trucspeciaal]

There's a solution for your matress. It's specifically for vans and boats. I'ts kind of a wirey mat kind of thing you place under your matress in stead of slats. I use it personally because i had the same problem and im really happy about the results!!! It's called an anti-condens mat and you can order it quite easily in NL for about 50 euros. Good luck mate keep on rocking!!!

[@JohnPatton-r9g]

Good vid. And the little friend made the vid really cooooooolllllll. 10 on 10.

[@mattmcg3760]

Thanks for your efforts, Mark. We deffo appreciate the 4k content!

[@windsurfingatmeerwijck]

Dude you are the Captain so you decide Everything.. What's happening on the Mahi and Everybody has to listen to the Captain.. Aye aye Skipper we love your hard work...

[@timothytrespas]

Just a reminder. The ocean is the most powerful thing! It can crush and break things with incredible force. Please do not expect some janky ropes and such to keep those motors in order. First they will be pushing on your boat. Quite a bit of force. And with the ocean in play and any kind of large waves wind and storms… Please be sure to build your motor stuff solid and strong so the ocean will not simply crack it like a twig. And figure out how you will deal with any motor emergencies while under way in heavy weather. It looks so calm and nice water most times I would hate to see you lulled into a false sense of security. Make everything strong and try to do things they way they work best for you in the safest way your able. Otherwise, fantastic videos great work You go!!! God bless you

[@SeekerofGnosis]

While you may not have saved any money with the used outboards you gained and enormous amount of experience and that is invaluable! You know them inside an out and when you have an issue far from anywhere and everywhere YOU will be able to competently and confidently solve it and get going! Not to mention the quality time with Dad- that is also invaluable!

[@tedrud7956]

Really glad to hear you say you will be getting a single cable from your engines to your battery. Talk to the people that you got that indoor battery system from. They can help you in setting up different battery banks for the uses that you will need. Other people have said this, and I’ve been holding my breath/response. Epoxy is not strong by itself. You are using it like glue. Epoxy needs fiberglass to get its strength. There are multiple kinds of fiberglass that work for all types of different situations. Do the research online to figure out what is the best fiberglass for your individual uses. I know you’re in a hurry to get sailing. In the long run, it will be cheaper to only do things once rather than have to fix things you’ve already spent time on.

[@DonFarmer-hq5sw]

Absolutely love the musical background ❤❤❤ I assume you are in contact with Hanekke and she will let you know if your Mahi is getting proper treatment.

[@waldemarsikorski4759]

Yes, soldering is a better connection, when you know what you're doing, you don't. Highly corrosive environment will quickly evaluate your work.

[@miketee2444]

When your soldering iron is slow to heat. Unscrew tip. Scuff and clean it to make a better connection.

[@RenanGa]

Thank you for posting your work. There are many good ideas in the comments, but one I believe you should do is the wiring. Please use crimp butt connectors with heat shrink. ABYC is a course that I am currently taking for electrical. Solder may crack with the movement of the boat. Also on your batteries always use nuts never use butterfly (wing) nuts. They can come loose very easily. Also place a cutoff switch(on/off) between the batteries and your motors and don’t forget the fuse. One of the most reasons boats catch fire is because of electrical. See if you can get a copy of Nigel Calder book Boatowners Mechanical and Electrical Manual. Keep up the good work. I enjoy watching your progress.

[@nealeburgess6756]

Great to see the good progress Mark. Getting ever closer to sailing! Shame about the music. Normally it is so bad I have to turn it down. This week it was worse. Had to turn the sound off completely.

[@rosimdark]

😂 get someone to help with the electrical 😊❤

[@RustyCandyAdventures]

Mark. If the wire is fixed in place. Get some copper pipe tube and different sizes. You can make lugs. Strip your wire a bit longer. Crimp in the copper tube, then use a butane gas torch and then insulate with multiple heatshrink. You're sailing the world, you do not want to be looking for an electrical fault. It takes 4 times longer to find and repair. In a high sea you do not want to be doing.

[@alanbutterworth4219]

We'll have to start calling you Dr. Dolittle....loved it.

[@dundeedolphin]

As a dancer for the Bolshoi ballet I can tell you with authority that you should use tinned cable in marine environments. Additionally, I strongly advise not eating the yellow snow. Keep up the good work lad.

[@richardschaefer3889]

Another episode from the best damn show, on the Tube. Hell yeah, Mark.

[@richardmerrills-brown1561]

Love the Jazz, keep on keeping on.

[@freemanjackmsiradio]

Using the battery you run the boat off as a starting battery could bite you in the arse. Better to give your engines small, cheap motorbike batteries with a voltage regulated relay to allow the engines to charge the boat battery when the engine batteries are charged from starting.

[@stijndeklerk]

Copper is a very good thermal conductor & there is a lot of copper there, so that soldering iron was never going to cut it. I don't know which tutorials you've been watching but marine cables should always be crimped & on top of that its best to run the full length. To properly crimp any gauge you need the correct terminals and crimping tool. It's all standardized stuff. Any half assed job you do now, will likely bite you in the worst possible moment.

[@Tim8mit]

I think I'm saying this every week, but none the less, it is so good to see you are going the extra mile to make things right, even if it means you have to do it twice....by now you have also gotten to the place where you know if something doesn't work well, you can always cut out the offending work and do it again...keep up the good work Mark...cheers

[@PurpleProAudio]

I have been following you from the start of the build and I think your dedication to this is amazing! I feel that I have to comment on the repair you have made to the bulkhead. Please let me say from the start that I'm not a qualified engineer, but I have made a lot of things and it seems to me that the depth of that bulkhead says something about the forces it was designed to withstand and as such it's quite deep. I'm presuming that from an interior design perspective there would be no reason to protrude into the internal space for any other reason than to resist loads on the hull. Given that water has a density of 1 ton per cubic meter and given the size of the hull, I would also presume that the forces acting upon the hull could be quite large. Your repair looks really nice and I don't want to be critical in any way, I just feel duty bound to say this as the failure along one of the glue joints in the repair while under heavy seas could lead to the stresses induced to be put into the hull. This would obviously be very serious. I would think a fairly cheap and easy solution would be to glue and screw a strip of aluminium half round section along the front of the bullhead, thus transmitting any loads through this rather than the glue joints. I hope I have come across as trying to help rather than being critical as helping is my only intention. Thanks for the great videos!

[@sail4life]

You are being very modest here. This "repair" is potentially fatal. I would glass both sides with 2 layers of 450 g.m.2 biax overlapping both sides 12* the thickness of the bulkhead. Ideally it should be calculated properly but these butt joints will not hold. I've seen plenty of snapped epoxy joints that were not scarfed 8:1 or otherwise sistered in or sandwiched. Mark, beware!

[@gerryobyne3457]

Things are starting to come together you have amazing mum & day keep it up great job

[@paullemon6542]

You’re doing a great job Mark

[@carolinecaiger6717]

I can hear that wonderful music as background to Mahi riding the waves ♥️

[@MikeyBoyd-n4m]

Pretty much all of the comments relating to the bulkhead repair are on point with respect to its loss of strength. Glassing the joints would need significant over lap and layers, above and below the current insertion. I would suggest doubling up the bulkhead from the seat right to the ceiling, same thickness marine ply as existing bulkhead, glueing, clamping and screwing. It will rebuild ALL of the original strength back into the bulkhead that was designed to distribute a multitude of forces. It is in my professional opinion as a Shipwright the strongest option, better than just tabbing and glassing although that is definitely better than what you have at the moment relying on just glue. The bulkhead would also be uniform in thickness without the need for significant fairing to feather in tabbing with just painting required to finish. However you decide to do it, the important thing is to reconnect the now two halves of that bulkhead over the largest area possible. Isolation switches, fuses are an absolute must... don't underestimate the raw power that can come out of a 12v battery that has shorted out. You could lose your boat in a heart beat. Keep doing what you are doing, she' coming along nicely and your skill level is getting better all the time. Don't compromise on important things just to get sailing, it'll happen and be sweeter knowing that your ride is in great shape where it counts. Thanks for sharing your journey! ✌👍

[@RobertCWarwick]

It's looking up brother can't wait to see your first sail out to sea ⛵🌊⛵🌊

[@steveberkshire3804]

Your doing great!! Early on when you were shopping I prayed you would get this boat, knew it would be a great journey for you. You keep researching the tasks you wish to achieve, doing the next right things looking out for your future self paying it forward. You will know everything there's to know about your boat when you are done👍😌🌠all blessings your way.

[@mariastaples638]

Awesome job as always Mark she looks great getting her closer for her big day crosser the ocean 🌊 day awesome talent and story can't wait till next week Mark ‼️ thank you ho glad to see everything went well with your computer 💻 problems taking care of John and Marie 😊😊

[@davidnichols147]

Mark, wow those engines are humming! Great job on splicing in the decayed frame, should be solid. Love your channel, so informative and full of valued information. Best with feeding the ducks!

[@charlesbrantley5845]

Dude, your killing it. I love the “ summer solutions”. I think your right about the bulkhead repair. I would be very surprised to see a fail there. Cheers

[@oreilly1237878]

Determination grit and skill in abundance in this fascinating sea saga of resurrecting a yacht.The whole family came together in this tremendous effort.Well done.

[@Clydio]

(IMO) The beebop fits your editing style better than the surf rock. The faster style adds to the hurried pace of a sped up clip of you working. However, I'd still watch your vids no matter which genre of music you use as backing. Hope your PC woes are all over!

[@Chris.from.1950]

Mark, first of all, congratulations on the mad progress you are making toward getting MAHI back out on the water. 🎉 Second, I like the way that you fit that patch into the bulkhead, but I'm not sure that you are done with the job, in terms of structural strength. I've seen a couple of previous commenters suggest adding fiberglass over the plywood, and that would be good, but, considering that the bit you're working on is probably going to be under considerable force from every conceivable direction when you're at sea, I hope you will consider adding a plywood overlay to at least one side, and preferably both sides, of the whole bulkhead, epoxied to the patched original part. You really don't want that bit crumpling when you are "off soundings" some day soon! All the best! And say hi to the fam for us, too! Ciao for now! ❤

[@Turleyswheels]

Well done you even your dad must of come across things in the beginning that didn’t go completely correct but you master them just like him well done your effort is great mark never beat your self up because your learning the knowledge as you go along I think anyone looking knows that and I’d say all proud of you a good hard worker well done I’d say keep it up it’s so interesting ❤

[@tiborkiss9186]

forget about soldering on a boat. check the max current and get a decent connector for that with a waterproof silicon box.

[@bobuncle8704]

Lots of great progress. As for the soldering. Sorry, but that wasn’t good penetration. You should actually see the solder being pulled into the connection. The first shield you were using was for heat shrink. When making the butt connection, don’t splay the wire like that, just wiggle the connection together. It’s a tighter connection and a cleaner look. If you have a flux, just push each end into the container before pushing them together. Also, what I like to do, I take a waste 150mm section of wire and strip it down. I then take a single start and off the wire, and tightly wrap it around the section to be soldered. Since you have a gas soldering gun, I would use a bare flame to heat up large connections like that. I would then apply the solder from the side away from the flame. You want the copper to be melting the solder, and not the flame. A smaller gauge wire would be so much easier. I was a communications tech, and in close to 10 years of work and thousands of connections, I never had a single failure using that technique. If you’d like, I could make you a tutorial video, and email it to you. What you did will work, but it could be much better. I’m not trying to just be critical, I’d like to see you learning a better way.

[@NilsNone]

I am doing nightshifts on the weekends and I am always looking forward for your videos. ❤

[@kevingardner1658]

this has become my favourite sc, great work, brilliant music, friends and family NEVER disapointed by Da Musik

[@digitalsoldier1787]

BTW in Dutch it's called a 'latten bodem' , good luck.

[@philwheeler7924]

You are a breath of fresh air to those that are struggling with boat repairs. I have spent 6 1/2 hours trying to get my horn hooked up on my current boat. I told my partner that it should be about 20 minutes. I'm learning along with you.

[@clivecook7193]

After a rainy day working in Cornwall good to see you had put a video on enjoyed that thanks

[@susankimbal4304]

You may be fine just butting the wood, epoxy is quite strong... i would lay some glass cloth over the joints (3 layers finishing) and lap 6 inches onto the bulkhead each side of the patch, then you know it is better than new. Bulkheads are important, and that one is wide so it was intended to take a lot of strain.

[@Nodalities]

Amazing work over the year -- it's been fun to watch -- and, as always, love the jazz and your cutaways to local wildlife❣

[@danieldonaldson8634]

Mark, I know you've had other commenters alert you to the problems with your bulkhead repair. In my opinion most have underplayed that it's a very dangerous situation, as in, potential for complete structural collapse. I want to put more emphasis on this. I hope you read this. From what I can tell, there ae bulkheads that correspond to the location of the beams between the hulls, and the bulkhead you cut through is the one closest to, and aft of the access hatch. The placement corresponds, or should correspond, to the fastening point of the standing rig. This in where all the major forces are at play in the boat. Think about the forces at play: The mast is a lever that is used to lift the windward hull upwards out of the water. As the sail takes sideways pressure, the stays on the leeward side stop taking any significant load, and the whole boat tries to slide sideways. The sideways forces on both hulls from the water resist that movement. Because the forces on the sail are above the hulls, it produces a rotating force that tries to bury the leeward hull,. But because stays won't transmit pushing force, the actual effect is that the windward stays pull the other hull upwards. Think about what it's like to carry ever a sheet of ply, while a wind blows against it at less than 3 kts. Now imagine 20kts, and multiply it by the area of the sail. That's how much force is being carried along those stays, and it's lifting the entire hull upwards. The butt joints have zero strength for this kind of force. The ability of plywood to carry huge tensile loads is down to the fibres of wood that are held together by the structure of the original wood, but mostly by being held together by the glue between the plies. This is what you eliminated by cutting out that bulkhead section. Stresses in any structure flow, like water, and they'll always flow to where weaknesses are., which right now is that bulkhead. If there are two sets of backstays, as I think there are, the rearmost, uncut bulkhead will carry much more of the load now, even if the "fixed" bulkhead doesn't pull apart immediately. But epoxy itself ihas almost zero tensile strength, so it will. Also worryingly, the two points on the boat now carry different amount of load across the beams, so you get complex twisting and shearing forces between the two, which over time might have structural effects, or just cause random, unrepairable leaks. But mainly, now you have a situation where the aftmost windwardstay is carrying loads much closer to its engineered load. That engineered strength is going to be well above the real-world forces you'll normally encounter, but the problem is that repeated cycles of being loaded and unloaded like when tacking, are going to find any weaknesses in the one remaining integral bulkhead and stay that you are now relying on. That will mean decomposition over time, stretch or fibre failure in the stays, etc. The problem is exacerbated by the fact that boats don't receive constant loads. Wave action that moves the platform, changes in the rig when you adjust sails and especially wind transients can produce forces far above the nominal for short periods. The bigger problem is that you will have a hard time making a sufficient repair. Plywood is not a good material for scarfing. and an in-place scarf would be almost impossible to do well, anyway. You could sister on both sides of the bulkhead, and that might be your best bet. You probably don't need to sister the entire surface, but rather a longer area that extends probably 30cm+ above and below the cuts you made. Fibreglass with aligned fibres going across the break in the sandwich might be your best bet, but the total section can't be just a layer or two. One thing that you should consider is that the tensile stresses in a bullkhead like that will concentrate on the inner edge of the material, i.e. where the opening you move through is. So by focusing on that area, you can probably salvage this catastrophe in the making. Think about how racing cars or airplanes lighten things by drilling holes in parts like wing spars or suspension arms. THat's the situation that you are in. The removed section is a hole you drilled; but you also drilled through the edge. You need that edge to be reinforced. Again, look at an I-Beam; the reinforcement is at the edges. As other commenters have said, tabbing the repair to the skin is crucial, and that will take care of stresses along that edge. You need to focus on the inside once you do that. I strongly suggest that you find a way to get a surveyor to look at what you've done, and see wha they think. This is the kind of thing that can render your boat uninsurable, and not deemed seaworthy. You are not playing a kids game here. Just going ahead and sailing it in an unseaworthy state can have multiple repercussions, and always put you in the wrong when damage from collisions with other boats or whatever else may happen, happen. You're learning, and I appreciate that. But you have made some colossal mistakes, not all of which you've rectified. These are accumulating in the boat now, and in addition, the boat is constantly revealing more significant weaknesses that you don't know about - like the bulkhead, or the steering arm with "termites" in it, and rot in unexpected places. More worryingly, You are only now starting to deal with the sources of almost all the stresses, wihich come from the sail, mast and rig, and their attachment points. This is where things can get hairy, and you are prioritizing "getting sailing" over taking the time to research and understand what you're doing. The audience here aren't always helping you by giving you encouragement when concerns should be raised. It's nice to feel good, but that won't fix a broken mast 500 miles offshore. And when that happens, nobody wants things to go badly for you after all the hard work.

[@gordonmcfadyen4679]

Great music! Thanks for keeping us in the loop. Love seeing your progress.

[@allanfamily4214]

I really enjoyed this episode, nice one!

[@Sn0w_Lynx]

For the future, Solder iron needed a new tip. "Tin" the tip and use that solder to help tranfer heat to the wire. The alternators use stator powered by the batteries. They'll adjust the voltage for charge based on the battery voltage. So when the battery is full the alternators will not put out as much voltage. Two batteries prevent the alternators from throwing each other off and over/under charging because they can't tell the difference between the battery and other alternator. If you don't need the charging amperage, you could just disconnect the alternator in one engine until you're ready for another battery. I'm assume you have plans to expand your battery setup later for solar. You'll need a dc to dc charger if you plan on running your engines off the same circuit as the solar bank.

[@haydo8373]

That wood work turned out great. When you route the cable on the outside try to have them track lower than the gland, that way water will track away from them :)

[@maryjnorwood3962]

So glad you have a new computer. 😎Your videos are awesome! 😎🥰😎🥰😎

[@suzettecalleja3122]

I don't know a thing about boats but, I love watching you and am learning so much. I was wondering about using fiberglass tape for that work you just did. Now about your music. I only wish that all KZbin sites had the music you have. Hands down you have the BEST selection of music than anyone else. I look forward to listen to it every week. I only wish I knew who all the music was. Great job on the boat.🎉

[@dylanwebb421]

Scanstrut? That's a name worth remembering.

[@dentside78]

You're doing a solid job, keep on keeping on. Hammock is the only way to go for me. Once you hang on a rocking ocean, you'll get hooked 🤙

[@starbuck4863]

You are doing a great job and I really enjoy your videos. I have a small piece of advice, always put an inline fuse at the battery end of the positive cable so that if the wire should short out further down the line the fuse will stop a possible fire. Keep up the great work! Really looking forward to seeing you sail her!

[@fatherbee]

Jazz and Bebop is your thing! Don't go changing. Love this channel and your style of narration

[@tedbecker7484]

I like the jazz.

[@teeoff007]

Why clean the wires when you can just cut it back an inch or so?

[@SH-fi8sn]

Hate the jazz(lol), LOVE the progress you're making. Keep it up :) Thanks for another great vid

[@MCP53]

For beds, slats is the way, cheap and cheerful will do! I had the same problem and solved it a few years ago by replacing the bed boards with bog standard 2" x 1" PAR (44 x 20 mm for metric types) of cheap pine. They are laid flat and crosswise with a 44 mm gap between each, arranged in easy lift-out sections for your boat. I didn't even paint them! Still good after six or seven years.