My Dream CPU Waterblock Now Exists!

[@timwhite1783]

WARNING for AMD cpu users: After buying this block for a ryzen cpu for my ncase m1 build I discovered that it is impossible to mount it in the way depicted in the video for am4. This is because the block is large enough that when attempting to do up the top screws there is no way to reach them (and they would get in the way of the block if you could get them in there anyway). This means that the only way to mount this block for am4 sockets is to rotate it 90 degrees clockwise from what is depicted here. This may or may not cause issues for you when planning your build.

[@eplanti]

srsly... there is no real estate around a cpu socket

[@eternalbeing3339]

That is why I bought the bykski cpu pump just like this. It's not as wide and can actually fit.

[@optimumtech]

Barrow nailed it with this one. Although it'd be perfect if it was 2-3mm shorter, it's hard to complain when nothing really comes close.

[@kingkea3451]

Looks very nice - good video and fantastic B-roll as always! I'm not sure if you're aware of this, but Silverstone has put a 500w Flex ATX power supply on their website - I emailed them and a rep said they would likely be on sale (in NZ) in October - might be worth reviewing as it looks very promising for ultra small builds like the K39 (which I have ordered) and the Velka 3

[@rmnwlfrtz]

Did you notice that port A is declared as the fillport and you used B for this?

[@anasbinmuslim]

Can you please give link for Low profile 90 degree fittings?

[@TheGentleChainsaw]

Would this pump fit in the NZXT H1? (Not that I think it'd be very practical, given where the fill port would go. I'm just curious.)

[@lakshmanshiva1686]

Barrow has a separate LRC controller like the corsair light node for rgb control.

[@rujigo69]

Before anyone says anything, it's okay that the rad is at the bottom, this is a custom loop, not an aio.

[@nemureru_tanuki]

is this GN reference?

[@danyalreyaz7503]

@@nemureru_tanuki yeah lol.

[@JubalVoid]

I mean, physics applies to custom loops as well, the reason this is okay is because the res and pump are combined so liquid level can still saturate the pump.

[@dennismarzan5770]

It still applies in custom loops like these because this is a pump block. But the reason why it won't work here because the pump block itself has a reservoir and you can adjust the amount (add more) of liquid unlike in AIOs.

[@hugevibez]

Also the block isn't at the top, but the side mounted rad is the highest point in this case. It does matter in this case because the pump is mounted directly to the CPU, so if the cold plate heats up it will heat up the materials in the pump. Luckily the res is mounted on top of the block in 99% of configurations. In the SV590 it is not an issue if you place the fittings at the top of the case, but with console style cases it might be an issue but who is gonna buy this just for a single 120mm rad and you can probably plan around it.

[@jseen9568]

Many are going to bring up GN. But since this has a reservoir, the air shouldn't be "stuck" in the pump.

[@WayStedYou]

I don't think people watched that video properly, steve literally says it doesn't apply to custom waterblocks. Everyone going "but what about the air!"

[@aspzx]

What is GN?

[@nisx2012]

​@@aspzx Gamers Nexus

[@bjrn-oskarrnning2740]

@Sugarz That's not correct, the reservoir should catch any bubbles and prevent them from getting pushed back into the loop when running, regardless of where it's positioned.

[@aspzx]

Ok I'm familiar with gamers Nexus but what does that have to do with air being stuck in the pump?

[@mbntr2363]

That’s great news even for Mid and full tower users, you can build a full CPU loop for well under €200, saving on pump res combos (that usually cost a kidney and a half) and on the water block. The this is a godsend for SFF builds for obvious reasons

[@ciceronx]

You can, essentially, build your own AIO with this and have the benefit of custom fitting your tubes to your case. But I guess this type of product (integrated pump, res, and block) isn't particularly a new concept.

[@Fleur_de_lis2k]

Barrow also currently produces a reduced version (10W) which has 44mm connector height. With some low profile fittings it would fit the Louqe Ghost.

[@Joey-lo4ln]

Insaneee!

[@Joey-lo4ln]

Can you link to it?

[@poeticsilence047]

"In Stock" for the next few minutes. Lol

[@speedyMaldo]

surprisingly, it has continued to stay in stock! Itll just take a month or two to get to you...

[@freedblowfish3705]

@@speedyMaldo maybe they hit a stage of built to order that they could keep up enough to not need to worry the customers, alternatively they could have just managed to supply enough to keep from running out of stock because its still a rather niche brand compared to the likes of ek, giving them a good balance of supply and demand

[@s15jason]

Hey mate, Love your videos. Not happy with you - You've now made me spend so much money.... As someone who is terrified of custom water-cooling, it'd be awesome if you did a "tutorial" on how to Fill, power cycle?, route the tubing. Thanks 🦘

[@ellisbod]

I'd love this too - I'm a big fan of your builds and am considering a dual radiator NR200 build with an RTX 3080 or 3090 but I've never put together a custom loop before so I've no idea how to work it all out!

[@kramler]

Linustechtips, jayztwocents and gamers nexus should be your goto pages for things like that. Or, try for yourself, and find the trails and errors. You can properly also find some fora where there either are guides, or people can help you with ideas

[@lincolnm267]

Me too

[@owensun1780]

Same here

[@ujiltromm7358]

Jayztwocents has many water-cooling tutorials. I know this comment is many months old now, but his videos are many years old now too. The tech may have improved and parts shown may be out of production, but the basics stay the same. You can fill either with a fill-bottle like he did in this video, or by using a funnel, or by coupling a spare fitting, a length of tube and a small funnel (like I do mine) and putting the fitting in a fill port. If you don't have a reservoir, a T connector is necessary, and it will be way harder. Before power-cycling, put paper towel under everywhere your loop can leak (usually, under fittings, under the pump, etc). Power-cycling is the act of starting up your computer so the pump spins up too, after filling your res. Usually the loop won't be filled entirely with pouring in the res alone, so powering the system will result in emptying the reservoir in the loop. Before the res is fully empty and air makes its way to the pump, switch off the PSU (or unplug the power chord if no switch is present). The OS won't have time to boot, meaning no file corruption issue can happen as they do with a "sudden poweroff" when the OS is already booted. Once the res is empty, fill it again, recycle the system... do that until the res doesn't empty anymore. Fill one more time nearly to the brim, and shake your system around to help air bubbles make their way out of the loop and in the reservoir. You'll have some air in the reservoir, that's normal, it's good to have a bit there, it makes room for liquid expansion as temperature rises. You'll have tiny air bubbles in the loop, along the tubes, it's not a problem, they'll get removed as time goes on. Now you can leak-test your loop. That is, run your computer as normal, and check regularly whether your paper towel has any trace of liquid (colored liquids work well, avoid pastels as a first-time WC builder). After about 24h of test, and if no leak is present, remove the paper towel and enjoy. If there is liquid, empty the loop, check the o-rings, check that your fittings are tightened enough (overtightening doesn't help, do it by hand), fill again and retest. My system is 1yo now, and I had two leak spots post-build. Nothing major, the fittings needed some more tightening, today it's running like a champ, no leak on the horizon, I just need to change the fluid eventually.

[@HansWursT619]

A test on temps compared to Apogee Drive II and a solid standalone CPU block would be interesting.

[@ahmadmohamad6384]

Yes please

[@nando03012009]

Right i have the apogee drive and would also like to know of this block out performs it

[@uss_liberty_incident]

I had an Apogee Drive II, and it cooled way better than this block. The fin array is really lacking on this cold plate.

[@techbuildspcs]

@@uss_liberty_incident Did you test this one?

[@timwhite1783]

You posted this at the perfect time for me! I've been planning to do a dual rad watercooled setup in the Ncase M1 for awhile now, but I don't personally like the look of the iceman pump. When I saw this video I immediately purchased one of these :)

[@emich34]

hey do you know what metal is used? i cant find any info online I hope its nickel plated copper but worried it might be aluminium

[@timwhite1783]

@@emich34 shipping took a long time but it is indeed nickel plated copper.

[@reistje]

Even for larger builds this could be cool going for a more minimalist loop. Even though I imagine filling it through the fill port is quiet scary.

[@PimptatoPCs]

Very cool waterblock combo that is probably an absolute necessity for the smallest builds out there. But I really like the look of a stand alone reservoir or pump/res combo that isn't incorporated into the waterblock. I like to see some water in my water cooled PC.

[@ChrisErwood]

Hey so question; at 5:08 you can see the ports are labelled A, B, C, with A labelled as the fill port, but you're using B as the fill port. How come? Does it make any difference? Love your videos btw, currently considering moving from my Dan A4 to something just slightly larger so I can make my setup a bit quieter.

[@DuyLeNguyen]

It looks like both port A and B feeds the same cavity, they are interchangable. Port C is the pump outlet and has to be used as such.

[@EnnTomi1]

2:28 if you look, this 2 port share the same res.

[@WolfgangsChannel]

Consider de-shrouding your GPU, as well as getting an Alphacool Black Ridge + Noctua NF-A12x15 and some VLP RAM. This is what I'm running currently and it's dead quiet (Ryzen 2600 + RTX 2060 Super). Crucial VLP RAM can easily be overclocked to 3200Mhz CL16 and maybe even further if you're lucky.

[@danyalreyaz7503]

@@WolfgangsChannel but if OP has really high TDP components it may not work

[@ChrisErwood]

@@danyalreyaz7503 Kind of mid tier on the TDP front, 3700X and RTX 2080. Considering a custom loop but may wait until the next lot of Nvidia GPUs come out and jump on that then. I use it for 3D modelling/rendering as well as gaming so it's not unusual for it to sit maxed out for a few hours.

[@ninjacookie2774]

Thank you so much I’ve been stressing over trying to water cool and not go over budget this is exactly what I needed

[@atthelord]

Man those biceps are anything but SFF , noice 👍🏻 😏

[@dirtyasianmafia2310]

@ how is this mean

[@dallatorretdu]

Imagine them making it a bit lower in profile, with the ports more recessed and no reservoir in it, but a variety of tiny reservoirs that could be plugged in this on top

[@hansyang1697]

To be honest, Barrow really makes some good water cooling parts. My whole rig is built on Barrows parts, and it only cost me around $450 for two water blocks, dual rad, tubing, and Pump res combo.

[@esotericjahanism5251]

Barrow and Bykski actually OEM a lot of parts for name brands. I think EKWB, Watercool, and AquaComputer are the only companies manufacturing their own parts

[@tionanima]

I love the subtle tertiary details on the all black colour scheme

[@tyreldelaney]

I would be into seeing some more builds using this pump!

[@zerkalix]

Dude. The videos are soooo well made and edited. I really appreciate the insane quality of ur videography and pc building. Just wanted to give some feedback :P

[@cengizteouluyurt7053]

Such a cool piece of tech. I loved it

[@TimBaoht]

I LOVE those Koolance 90's!!! Be careful though, they can leak if not installed PERFECTLY. I recommend replacing the o-rings with Bitspower O-rings. They're the right diameter and the just a c-hair thicker.

[@PaladinJenkis]

I wish this came out when I started my build. I had to wait 3 Month for my Alphacool Eisbaer Solo (LT) to arrive. It's decent but I think this pump is way ahead! Especially sinc I already plan my next build in with a dual radiator. Let's see if we can cool a 3080/3090 in a SFF case!

[@dallatorretdu]

it's all a game of balance, if you talk to ATX watercoolers they'll mostly dislike the DDC as its the lower flow and noisier alternative to a D5 (missed opportunity for the Iceman here) So you better pick the most that can fit

[@fatboy5326]

With recent leaks and rumors regarding 3090, it seems like the GPU won't be able to fit in most SFF cases as the size is comparable to that of EVGA's tripple slot FTW3 behemoth. In term of cooling performance, I believe dual radiators in Ncase M1 and NR200 would be sufficient. Personally, I am concerned with upgrade path for my recently built Ncase M1 even with dual radiators. I am hoping that 3080/3090's PCB will also be available in the same size as 2080/2080ti's preference PCB.

[@DJChakal]

I got that pump block combo for my first loop recently, i didn't have room in my case for a separate res/pump and decided to give barrow a shot, and it's really nice, especially for the price!

[@KajahaX]

2:50 - This scene made me crave a Reese's peanut butter cup

[@MrSnakefd99cb]

Perfect info. Your channel is the best for watercooling and itx configs

[@Requim005]

The best SFF pc channel on youtube!

[@seaw0lfscockpitview271]

Loved it! I was just eying this unit but had no reference from a pro builder. Thanks! I was baffled that no one had come with such a solution. Have been looking for something similar for a few years now.

[@FerrandaBEAR09]

How were the thermals for this setup? or is that an upcoming video? lol as always, love the content!

[@gG-jg8bv]

Yeah, interested in thermals stats as well.

[@TheSparkxplug]

His nr200 water cooled video with the EK pump/res setup will give you a good idea of what to expect

[@gamebug0]

Absolutely love your content dude. I have been binging your videos for the last week, and I subscribed after the first two I saw, which I've never done before. This is exactly the kind of channel I have been looking for 👌🏽

[@emich34]

Hey mate, big fan of the channel and loving all your videos! You actually convinced me to get an Ncase M1 a few years back and thank you so much for all the videos. With the 3000 cards coming up soon I'm thinking of doing a watercooling loop (currently have a deshrouded 1080ti with Noctua fans pushing out the bottom in mine thanks for the video on that tip!). As I've never done water cooling before was wondering if you knew any good guides on building a water cooling loop in an ITX case? so far all the ones I've seen are on big cases with separate reservoir/pumps etc, simple stuff like even how to best fill your loop, what fittings are best placed where arent really talked over. Perhaps a new video idea - guide on how to watercool an ITX/Ncase :)

[@tarfeef_4268]

So I love AliExpress watercooling. Like, a lot. As in I buy like 2 loops worth of stuff every year kind of a lot. Basically all my rads, fittings (except when EK does 70% off), cpu blocks, some GPU blocks, reservoirs come from AliExpress. Specifically, I've got barrow cpu blocks and fittings (and been very pleased, although the cpu blocks with mounting thumbscrews with no screwhead pattern in the top are infuriating when working in enclosed spaces), freezemod I've got lots of rads from (and other stuff as well like cabling, fitting adapters, etc), and I've got byksi reservoirs and GPU blocks, which I've also loved. Also some other stuff has come from just random sellers. One thing I haven't been totally satisfied with is pumps. I've mostly got bykski DDC pump designs. I've have 1 die in about a year (impeller failure), 1 that works but won't respond to PWM control despite being the model that should, the cable just does nothing, and 1 that's worked fine over a couple years, until the last 6 months or so where it sometimes just shuts off. If I unplug and replug it a couple times, it starts up again. That is a system that's on 24/7, but so is the server I run with an EK DDC, and that's had no issues. Now, those aren't Barrow pumps. But they are quite similar, and I don't know if the factories and suppliers are the same, but I'd educated guess they are. I recently dropped a lot of money of a pair of D5s from EK to fix some of those issues. I don't want to deal with pump failures. So I'll simply say "buyer beware", as my experience hasn't been amazing. I do still love and buy almost everything else on AliExpress, though (oh yeah I forgot tubing too). So if you want help knowing who some good sellers/brands are, and what products specifically are good, feel free to msg me, ideally on the LTT forums @tarfeef101

[@commercio3564]

Could you do a video on its performance? I'd like to see some temps. If anyone else has this, please post some benchmarks. Thanks.

[@PCBUILDMOD]

Fantastic!..I look at this last week from Barrow! Super video as always!👍🤙

[@forestR1]

pump sounds like a hairdryer!! oh wait, that's my laptop

[@MaximumPCs]

This block uses a standard ARGB strip inside so you can actually rewire to use the 5v argb motherboard header instead. See video at 1:30 - top wire is ground, middle wire is signal and bottom wire is +5v

[@FischOderAal]

Why didn't you disassemble it? Would've been interesting to know how the coldplate looks.

[@Moodyfn]

5:07 u could just use some extra tubing for the fill port to add extra space for fluid.

[@backpain100]

Seems like a product that the market demand. The question is how reliable is it going forward? A leak or a pump failure would be bad. The good news is that other big manufacturers who see this might come out with something similar. Keep us updated.

[@3XZDgg]

barrow and bykski are def on the up and up and worth consideration (at the very least) when building custom loops. barrow has a rep in asia as the company that tries crazy stuff like this. one of their newest blocks has an actual hdmi display on it lol.

[@Sedokun]

I want to inform anyone who's going to use that CPU/Pump block with EKWB Quantum - there is no enough clearance to screw in the fittings. As EKWB Quantum fitting has a diameter of 23mm. And the distance between the holes on this block is 22mm.

[@IvoPetrov86]

@Optimum Tech, great video! I was just planning to upgrade my water loop. Question - is the pump replaceble and will this pump handle 2 rads (360 + 420)? I have already 360, but want to add one more for lower temps. Thx!

[@TheJarJarKinks]

I swear you're psychic. I just decided to go for something a water-cooled it's build. First I rewatched your vid with the Apogee Drive II, then I stumbled onto the Eisbaer LT Solo, and (surprise surprise) found that both were out of stock. This is perfect.

[@ValkenDnB]

What’s your workout routine, my guy? Stronk

[@bcook6960]

He used to do power lifting. Stronk indeed.

[@darsan8492]

Oh computers are really heavy

[@rb9951]

100x100 barbell curl

[@SOU6900]

I was thinking he probably lifts a 6.7L Powerstroke for 15 minutes each day.

[@evertonc1448]

@@bcook6960 nice. Back when I started with weight lifting I also did power lifting: huge results and actually saves a lot of time when you compare to bodybuilding routines.

[@somedude2492]

3:32 rgb strips are rgb strips. Cut cables, solder connector, not hard at all. You can then connect the block to the rgb connector in your motherboard or if it's 3 pins then connect it to the addressable pins.

[@matthewbonnici21]

Looks like a very interesting product :D Comparing this to the Swiftech Apogee Drive II, that you use in your previous 2x240mm NCase M1 build, do you think the extra size added by the reservoirs would cause issues? Currently planning a similar build myself, so it would be nice to know :)

[@placksheep]

I just grabbed one of these from Aliexpress - I'm not working in SFF, but I like simplifying the loop. I'm converting from Aluminum and this little guy seemed just the thing. Thanks for the recommendation!

[@matthieuzglurg6015]

I was wondering : is it possible to use the vertical GPU mount with your radiator configuration? I think that would allow more air to get through the rad and look nicer too

[@philip0654]

Won't the riser cable still get in the way?

[@matthieuzglurg6015]

@@philip0654 much smaller tan the entire GPU PCB tho, and way thinner so it allow more air to escape

[@Liicch]

Wouldnt work: No space to screw the GPU side port panel on the case

[@RafitoOoO]

Hey, Ali. A follow up on this block would be awesome. Show us more builds with it lol.

[@odinsplaygrounds]

Optimum Tech's wet water cooled dream came true.

[@BBoYSHaDoE]

I knew the custom waterloop wouldn't fit with the side radiator installed. Thank you for confirming this before I buy the NR200 🙏

[@TiDliDa1]

nice unit ! but i'm concern about the clearace with AM4 plateform since the 3 ports will be on the side (turn 90 deg) , next to the ram slot (i've check on aliexpress) . With small ITX board, will it fit ? ... need to check that out.

[@tuftman6092]

Hey, I bought it, and you will have to mount it sideways. I mounted it so that the 3 ports were pointing towards The IO shield on my motherboard and there were no clearance issues. I also did a test fit with the 3 ports towards the ram, and it should fit most ram. Unfortunately you can't mount the block vertically because if you rotate the pump mounting bracket 90 degrees WRT the pump, the mounting screw holes get partially covered by the reservoir part of the pump.

[@marlongarful]

@@tuftman6092 - Hi, can you share your build with this cpu pump block reservoir? Thanks.

[@ludovico007]

Hi, i did the same but i’m having trouble to fill the loop. I have air in the pump and it is almost impossible to drain.

[@catch2030]

I went with this and a 140MM rad to cool my Ryzen 5 2600 in my server build which is in the Meshify 2. I wanted a 140mm AIO so I could use the 140MM fan that came with the case and put the rad at the back but those don’t really exist. I could squeeze a 280 in the top but didn’t want to as it can cause issues with the HDDs. With the wall of hard drives in the front, front intake is limited so this made the most sense for my “custom AIO”. If the pump dies I can replace it and I can expand the loop to my 1060 FE if I ever so desire. Barrowch actually makes one with a small OLED screen for temp readout and RPM monitoring if that tickles anyone’s fancy.

[@Lewander88]

Good video! would you recommend Alphacool Eisstation 40 DC-LT - reservoir and Alphacool DC-LT 3600 for the T1 or this CPU pump block from Barrow? Thanks!

[@jacobplyler3470]

Just bought one of these! Will work on the rest of the loop once it arrives in the next month hopefully

[@100qtips9]

This is a small watercooler Me: I don't need that It has RGB Me....................................... i need that.

[@Bengt.Lueers]

6:49 This also avoids two connections, namely pump-res and res-block. Four fittings can easily cost another 20 bucks.

[@DeathSc00p]

And more points of failure 👍

[@bigfisher42]

So there's no hope for it to fit in a Ghost S1?! :(

[@xPinetreex]

As a Ghost owner I’m also bummed out when I heard that in the video, but with smaller fittings it should work? Maybe Ali or someone can confirm?

[@bigfisher42]

Abraham Pino No the holes would need to be on the sides. The cooler seems to be touching the side panel as is. :(

[@iDoPew]

this doesn't fit. would also instabuy if they made it smaller in height to fit the ghost s1.

[@andreasnielsen6037]

Stijn Spijker let us know if it is possible to fit in the Ghost in some way. :-)

[@Lif7ed]

Barrow products are very very underrated indeed, I don't know if that's just me but the quality of their products at the price they offer you really can't complain. I truly think Barrow will pull through and be what Corsair should of been.

[@ChandlerGonzales]

Anyone have any idea if the "aluminum alloy radiator" would cause problems with mixing metals with a copper or nickel-plated GPU block?

[@kevineldridge9452]

Pretty sure that is just referring to the finned heat sink on the pump, should not make contact with the cooling fluid...?

[@RhinoNigel]

I’ve had this sitting in my cart for about a month and just couldn’t pull the trigger until I saw your video. Thanks again for the amazing content.

[@DarrinLin]

Can you do a ncase m1 dual rad setup video with this??

[@KDub57]

I can't imagine it'd be all that different from the one he already did.

[@ARandomCibbi]

I think a lot of people misunderstand the "air in the loop problem", there is no problem if the system has air, the problem starts in the moment there's air in the pump itself. And this is an issue solved by the golden rule of "the reservoir has to feed the pump". Now this is a really notable issue on Asetek style pump blocks (so most aio coolers, there are rare exceptions) cause they don't have a reservoir and depend on the radiator acting as one to feed the pump. And from this comes the problem that Steve from GN talked about. In case of radiator on the bottom you effectively have the system reservoir being on the bottom, so air goes in the pump. on sidemounted radiators you have the problem when the port is on the top cause the pump feeds from the port, so if it has air it feeds air, while if is on the bottom it will always feed water (unless the radiator is empty but then you have bigger problems in there). On custom loops, you have a dedicated reservoir feeding the pump, so as long as you put it at the top of the pump, you feed the pump from the bottom of the reservoir an the reservoir itself is not empty, you will never have air reaching the pump, cause it gets stuck to the above reservoir (air doesn't go under water unless they changed gravity without my knowledge)

[@virusesdetected8709]

when youre too early to think of anything to say

[@vernacular3289]

This Pump Reservoir CPU Block is certainly an innovative and tidy solution when you're cramming as much water cooling as possible into a small enclosure. I've used Barrow fittings for years. They make good stuff that is often more affordable than the competition and I've yet to have any problems, even with their (significantly cheaper) QDCs.

[@stuwest3653]

Inefficient, crappy LED's, Molex connector, separate RGB controller, missing hardware, over priced. Did I miss anything?

[@JohnyMcNeal]

Goes on side on AM4 and aliexpress has expensive shipping cost for majority of countries now. Well at least for some of us in EU compared to the pre corona free shipping. Also pump could be quieter as on alphacool dc-lt 2600rpm

[@vaddimka]

Prob no warranty as well.

[@goodjihad]

I really want to build a watercooled computer! I have seen Barrow a lot in the past on Aliexpress, this deems that they are quite a good brand! Love the new opening btw Ali :D

[@rohanstarcey]

holy crap im so early, hey optimum!

[@TheGodpharma]

I bought one of these and it's great, but it's definitely worth pointing out, which isn't mentioned in this video, that although it's PWM controlled, the control is actually an included rotary knob (i.e. manual control) and you can't control the pump speed in BIOS or fan control software. Having said that, in my setup at least, pump speed makes no difference whatsoever on cooling, even with CPU and GPU on maximum load (Prime 95 / FurMark). It is just as effective at minimum speed (about 1800 RPM) as maximum (about 4600 RPM), with literally no change in coolant temperature. Radiator size/thickness and fan speed are far more important. At minimum speed it is virtually silent, at max it is unacceptably loud. I have mine at minimum pump speed, and control only the fans in software, which is absolutely fine.

[@ZeraG279]

Can you share a bit on your CPU spec and thermals performance?

[@TheGodpharma]

@@ZeraG279 My basic setup is an Asus Crosshair viii Formula mini-DTX motherboard, Ryzen 9 3900XT CPU and RTX2080Ti graphics card, which is included in the cooling loop. CPU/GPU are not overclocked. It's housed in a Streacom DA2 case, with a 280mm radiator plus two 140mm fans on the side, and a low profile 240mm radiator on the bottom, without fans. There are an additional two 120mm low profile fans on the top, although my testing showed these only have a very minor impact on temperatures. I bought an in-line coolant temperature sensor which is used for fan control, as it means the rate of fan speed increase/decrease is slower and less noticeable than using the CPU temperature for reference. Idle/non-gaming CPU temperatures are in the range 40 - 45C, and up to around 70 to 75 when gaming (at typical ambient temperatures here in the UK). I'm not too keen on running the stress tests but have done so a couple of times and I think then the CPU went up to about 85. I believe AMD claim the CPU can run up to 95 without throttling. I realise these temperatures are higher than a lot of people would like, but I am willing to accept that as the price for a small neat case and low fan speeds (at least when not gaming). Also the Ryzens do supposedly run hotter than Intel. Personally I think people get too hung up on temperatures. There seems to be no obvious advantage in, for example, having the CPU running at 35C instead of 45, when it's rated at up to 95. Having said that I would be nervous if it was consistently hitting maybe 80-plus. I am very pleased with it although it was a pain to build and especially to fill the loop and eliminate all the air (not to mention, with loads of M.2 storage, cooling loop fittings, RAM, PSU etc, it cost a small fortune). However it's been running for a year now without any problems or any need for maintenance.

[@iiSoxSkillz]

For those who are thinking of sticking this block on FormD T1. Sadly it has 70.20mm of CPU height clearance with two slots config. Barrow block with Koolance LP fittings is 72mm as he mentioned in the video. I haven't tried to do it but I did a little research. This might be a bad idea. not sure if doing some grinding would reduce some footprint...

[@jondonnelly3]

I love the look of the larger version that has a display built in!

[@jaredblount1818]

I just bought a bunch of watercooling stuff from barrow and bykski from aliexpress. It's extremely nice for what I paid. I got a 360 and 240 rad. The bykski d5 pump res combo, barrow fittings, and a bykski butterfly am4 block. Super nice quality stuff.

[@Nagggl]

Awesome, might go water cooling for my next ITX build now, and add a small section of tubing going straight up from the fill port for easy filling

[@zeburgerkang]

i didn't think i wanted water-cooling ever but this thing looks and sounds amazing...

[@IIMANIXII]

I only found your channel recently but you churning out some decent content mate keep it up. :)

[@bobisadrummer]

Yes... yes! Let the glow flow through you! Join the RBG side!

[@ujiltromm7358]

A while back EK sent out a survey and one of the questions was what new product I'd like to see from them. I replied something along the line of a pump/block unit. I see Barrow went one step further without asking!

[@damienlahoz]

jayz and kyle have made vids in the past about the cooling that a single rad supplies. yet few have taken that path. i use a single 240/45 rad for a 5600x and 3070, both OC'd. temps are great, neither go above 65 c under full load testing. im sure there are situations where a 360 or two 240s would be beneficial, maybe a 3090 or a threadripper build but i can attest and others have proved it too, that a single full size 240 will cool MOST rigs without issue.

[@eternalbeing3339]

That is not good. 65c is no better than running on air. You should be less than 60c on water or something is not right.

[@damienlahoz]

@@eternalbeing3339 hahahaha okay. Im not interested in insulting strangers online but your statement means absolutely nothing. If you know you know. And you dont know. But peace unto you, sincerely

[@jongsong86]

Thank God I found this video before my iceman shipped lol was kinda bummed the exhaust fan is blocked but this definitely solves both problems for hell of a lot cheaper 👍🏼

[@wilsonjj]

pretty nice solution for entry open loop users that doesn't want to spend too much

[@ravine9083]

Thank you so much for showing this combo! I want to water cool my ITX media PC which will use a 3600 and a 3080, but there's no room for a pump or res anywhere. You helped me solve my problem! Now I need to buy the 3080... I'll have to monitor best buy...

[@Tiwey]

there once was an AIO Water cooler. It was called Raijintek Triton. Its the sae principle, but the father of all inbuild pump/reservoir aio's

[@CryptTM]

Awesome, I have to buy it. Thats exacly that, what I was looking for. BTW, great movie @Optimum Tech.

[@tripl3cp]

You could move the side mounted rad up one rail and use washers for the buttom screws.

[@EnnTomi1]

Thanks for more options. Barrow is actually pretty popular in China as they are more down to earth type of brand where everyone can afford their stuff. It somehow becomes very ugly quickly after fittings are installed.... And clearly there are more ways of the port position to be placed without affecting the whole thing too much if not at all.

[@Safetytrousers]

Where would you put the ports without making it bigger? The ports where they are keep the air as far from the pump as possible. I thought those fittings looked nice, and in most small form factor PCs you won't see them anyway.

[@EnnTomi1]

@@Safetytrousers on the side, on the front, also beacuse it has small resver built in, i think that can be just ignored

[@EnnTomi1]

@@Safetytrousers the problem is cooler height. it is 65mm that is not small to begin with, and in video even with LP fitting, it hit 70ish mm....which would mean almost all A4 style case is out of luck.

[@Safetytrousers]

@@EnnTomi1 Simply moving the ports down would only allow a smaller reservoir which would be too small, and it would make the assembly too tall. And fittings on the side would be butting up against the Ram or heatsink.

[@jon4715]

The new logo is great. Much simpler and more memorable.

[@josephwu5172]

Seems they've already got an update for this pump, it added an OLED screen right in the middle of that black block which shows running status and supports ARGB for "some" motherboards. RGB yes!

[@vadianx]

This is exactly what I was waiting for to build my custom loop since the Apogee Drive II is unobtainable.

[@donniebaker5984]

When you have three ports on a CPU water block the center port is your inlet and two exhaust ports for a much better spread over the CPU as the flow will be slower and pick up more btu,'s

[@gopronomad4381]

Wow... I'm subscribing because this guy is reviewing products I don't see other content creators review

[@khanscombe619]

That's so cool. I almost wanna build a mini system just to try it. I'd like to show it in that mini open frame you reviewed.

[@UnfocusedRacing]

Great pump solution. Now if I can find the NR200P.

[@peterpersson1967]

Happy to find this video. Planing to build a dual rad in same case my self... Great videos.

[@hadoryu]

Man, so many cool parts. I think I might end up doing a watercooled ITX build... if all the parts are ever available.

[@lapal4860]

This saves a lot of space and a lot of money. Going to keep this in mind whenever I get the chance to get the Lian Li PCO11 Mini.

[@KDub57]

I'm still super excited for the O11 mini, but even that case is so big that I feel like I would need to fill up the space with a pump and reservoir. Putting this pump/res/block combo in that case would make it seem so empty...not really my thing.

[@shark_actual]

Would absolutely love to do this in my NR200P. If only the case actually shipped...

[@desasch1687]

There is still space above the cooler. Why not add a small reservour on the top above the connector of the fill port? So you also would have a indication for a required refill.

[@andrewmissel674]

Hack the end of that wire before it goes to the micro controller on the wire to the molex, and put a 3 pin connector on. Doing this you will be able to address those LEDs from your newly made wire to the motherboard.

[@MikeSuma831]

Awesome. I'm planning to build my next rig in ITX format but wasn't up for giving up a full custom water loop. I can't wait until Zen 3 and Ampere come out.

[@christophertomes6777]

So, the pump is standard size? So if it were to fail or perhaps if i wanted a slightly better looking pump i can replace it with another brands? Also would like to know how well this disassembles for maintenance/cleaning. great vid btw!

[@jans1372]

what about the material used for the block? did you use a copper radiator or an aluminum one? I wish they made a copper version of this product..