My Junk E-Type Engine Part 5

[@chrissscottt]

I can imagine that there will be some engineers who originally built these engines watching this loving restoration with a tear in their eye. Nice work.

As a retired vehicle mechanic we always torqued up crankshafts from the centre cap. Taught this as an apprentice in the 60's and worked on Jags.

[@imfrcd]

I knew, if there were enough episodes, people telling you how to do it better would be falling out of the rafters. your engine, your rules. I like it.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Thanks, getting a bit of backlash for this one, but it is my own junk :)

[@imfrcd]

@@RichardMichaelOwen Gotta remember, in the end, you have the keys and it's your butt in the seat. Enjoy!

[@dntlss]

That happens everywhere but its worse on KZbin, but you know if you open a comment section you need to be prepared for that,a lot of folks on KZbin have decided to go the "comment disabled "route cause Everyone is a expert on KZbin. your videos, your call.

[@axeman6560]

Very enjoyable to watch and working with your father, very cool. Thanks.

[@richardmason902]

Yes Axeman v--Working with your father is awesome.

[@stanbest3743]

I have used a bolt to clean a thread out when I didn't have the correct tap (but please dont tell anyone :-) ). I did put a couple of slots along the bolt with a hacksaw, just to give any debris somewhere to go like the flutes do in a tap. Thanks for posting this rebuild, really enjoyed it.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Yes should have done that with the crank plugs

[@andrew_koala2974]

Good thinking Stan. . . . Stan's the man!

[@richardmason902]

Me too

[@dntlss]

That's a cool idea,never heard of that but makes total sense.

[@stebro2738]

Richard; awesome respect for some old classic machining. At first view, i thought you were just a vidiographer in someone elses shop... After watching a number of fascinating videos, i see your obvious deference to your Dad's well honed skills, and recognize you as a true master, because you are able to subserve your own ego and are able to give credit to the "old " master (sorry dad, but i'm old myself...) I think your work is exemplory! After attempting to restore an MG-TD for a pickey customer a long time ago, and multiple rebuilds of Lucas products in an electrical shop i managed, I respect your patience..

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Thanks for the feedback, great to have you along!

[@gyrogearloose1345]

Lucas - Prince of Darkness

[@johncone9516]

Here in the UK we always leave the rope seal proud at each end by 1/8 of an inch on both halves. Always use the lock tabs.

[@funksterbass]

Hi Richard, excellent work indeed and good to see someone so dedicated to restoring a true British icon. My only observations would be when torquing up the crankshaft, you should start from the centre and work your way outwards, starting at centre, then left cap, then right cap, then next left cap, then next right cap. That way you are certain the crank doesnt rise slightly at one end and is seated totally square in the block. The other thing I would mention is the use of the honing tool. It really needs to be done with a the tool with three long stones on it to guarantee the cylinder walls are square after the honing. The tool you used will follow all imperfections in the bore. Apart from that, it looks like a super dedicated job!

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Great suggestions love them. This bore did have taper wear, don't know how that would effect long hones.

[@alexbrown1995]

Nice to see plastigauge used again. I used it when I built engines in the early 80s but thought it had gone out of use..... Good series - enjoying it. Looks pretty cold in that workshop - we have the opposite problem down under.....

[@jsleeio]

Woody and Turboyoda at the Skid Factory were using Plastigauge in their Nissan RB30 rebuild recently :-)

[@alexbrown1995]

@@jsleeio Yeah I saw that :-)

[@wbaiv]

I helped friends use plastigauge to check main bearings in a a relative's VW. Bearings and crank were in tolerance, and left alone. Worked fine.

[@dntlss]

Plastigauge is awesome,i have this fascination when i use it to check it against the chart,sometimes me and the guys even make bets to see who is closest,lol

[@markwybierala4936]

It wonderful working on things that weren’t built for planned obsolescence.

[@stevejette2329]

I really enjoy your videos !! Good lighting and camera work. Clear audio and script. Being a linguist I am intrigued that every sentence ends in an "up note". Opposite of Obama. He would nail down every thought. You leave each thought open to whatever is coming next. Maybe Canadian ? Saw grape vines. And working with Dad ?? OUTSTANDING. I am bed-ridden for a week so this has been a treat. Thanks !

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Sorry KZbin isn't my profession. You are probably the 25th person to call my voice annoying. It eats a little bit at my soul.

[@gas3273]

I actually find your voice positive and upbeat, certainly not annoying, and adds to your videos. Keep up the good work. Cheers from Australia.

[@andrew_koala2974]

I find it interesting that some people end their sentence on a high inflection. Not that it bothers me, Being a teacher of English and History for just over ten years I am more annoyed by bad spelling, bad grammar and using incorrect words. Though by profession I am an Electronics and Electro-Mechanical Engineer. The presentation, clarity of explanation that is not in anyway rushed, and the excellent videography makes this series outstanding, not to mention the dedication to quality workmanship and attention to detail. This is what makes good engineers. Think three times and do it once, consider all options. Nothing worse than having to dismantle equipment to correct an oversight,thus doing the job twice.

[@rogerbush2226]

A tip (not noted) when installing the end caps - the threads set in the crankshaft block are (more than likely) cut into "blind" holes. Before installing the end cap bolts, these blind holes should be thoroughly dry as any fluid in the bottom of the holes (especially oil) is compressed by the end of the bolt when being tightened up. The resulting "hydraulic pressure" can be so great as to actually crack metal which, in time, could cause the bolt to come loose and lead to another engine rebuild. Medicinal cotton buds (cotton swabs on a stick) are ideal for this purpose. The principle applies to all blind holes.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Yes I have heard of this problem in large marine practice. The main bolts had lots of factory assembly lube in the holes when I first took them out.

[@rogerbush2226]

I discovered this phenomen from the aircraft industry (40 years designing the beasts) where defined torque settings are standard practice. Many years ago I recall one particular bolt was torqued down to it's given spec, but the washer below the bolt head was still loose - hmmm! Bolt removal showed some liquid gooo at the bottom of the hole (mixture of sealant/grease/anti corrosion inhibiter) which, when cleaned out solved the misdameaner. Further consutation with the stress department led to the "hydraulic press" conclusion & tests showed pressures of nearly 100000 PSI could be created (worst case Scenario from an 8 mm thread). Given time, the pressure created would decrease leaving the bolt in a somewhat loose condition, but the base material cracking had already occured.Subsequently, all my aircraft parts where blind holes could not be avoided, were drilled through eg a 4.8 mm (3/16") dia thread was drilled fully through with a 2.5 mm hole to allow for "venting" and also to prohibit the possibility of a threaded insert screwing/threading itself fully through a larger dia "through hole". Occasionly, "venting" or pressure relief holes were incorporated diagonaly or horizontaly to the bottom of the threaded hole.In the case of an engine block, drilling "through" or "venting" holes is inpractible - hence the recommendation of drying out any blind holes. In aircraft production, a "dry" lubricant (spray) is normally applied to bolt threads at installation - but not into the threaded hole. For engine assembly, something like WD40 would be quite suitable.Sorry - no experiance with marine engineering, so nothing to say from that side, although water obviously can also create a pressure build up.

[@craigpennington1251]

I've rebuilt American V-8s but no thanks on this one. A totally different animal. Great video. Learning new stuff all the time.

[@dntlss]

That's what i was thinking,Ive rebuilt 350s and 302s and things like that but this engine is a whole different thing,lol, when he was taking it apart and they were messing with that round thing in the center upper and they said they had to hit it to relieve the tension on the chains i was like what??!!

[@lrowlands53]

Thread file to clean threads. I've had a metric one for 40 years and it has saved my arse many times.

[@robertsalanon2909]

Magnifique travail ....

[@Mercmad]

A hint, when fitting the rear main seals, use the hammer handle or as I have a piece of hardwood turned in the lathe. The get the correct length,make a square hole in a piece of 1 mm sheet metal . When you place this over the seal,you can use a sharp knife of box cutter to trim the seal off. this gives the correct amount of seal protrusion .The seal is a hangover from steam days where moving joints had seals made from the stuff packed into housings .Something i learned a damn long time ago during my apprenticeship.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Thanks for the tips!

[@TD_YT066]

Think I would have tried to fill in the pitting on the crank seal surface, maybe Silver solder or JBweld so the seal runs on perfectly smooth surface and wont wear.

[@TR4zest]

@@TD_YT066 I agree Tom.

[@ollimakkonen6481]

Honing a cylinder with a "balloon" hone, is not the way to go. As balloon hones are mounted on flexible bods, they follow the shape of the cylinder wall, including "dip" into every scratch and imperfection. For this reason, they are at the best suitable for initial cleaning of the bore. The eventual honing to "finish" the surface should always be done with stones mounted of a specialised cylinder hone. As several grades of these stones are available, it's not possible to here state the rotation speed of the hone. That depends on the stone grade. I have been following this series from the start, and would like to congratulate you on the outstanding quality of the work carried out. Making several of the tools, as you have done, accentuates your commitment to workmanship of the highest standard. Sadly, this kind of quality is dying out in our modern world. I have restored several old vehicles, both as a hobby in case of my own vehicles, as well as customer jobs in a professional capacity. I hold a doctorate in mechanical engineering from one of the top universities in Australia, and while now in my 70's and well and truly retired, I have never lost my love of high quality engineering work, of which the original British engineering was at the very top of. Very much looking forward to reminder of this excellent series..

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Olli, the ones used in the video were fine grit I believe.

[@richardmason902]

Nice one Ollie

[@barrycox8468]

Excellent work

[@regsparkes6507]

Interesting, very interesting to watch this re-build. I 'spied' that TR in the background,..I owned one back in the 70's mine had the independent rear suspension,.hence the 'IRS' after the TR4A nomenclature. I really liked that car, and am wondering "why the heck did I sell that car?" !

[@justinbelshe]

Another option for cleaning the crankshaft isn't *sand*blasting, but sodablasting! It's water soluble, so it's easier to wash out, and if you miss any of it, it'll come out the next oil change without damaging anything.

[@welldone2016]

Great Video and great Job well done.

[@markb3146]

Is that a TR5 I spy in the background, built many a motor for those..... also did a few Jag motors too, Hi from Australia..Also long strips of super fine emery paper crossed over to "linish" the journals is a good idea.....disagreed with no lock tabs, they are there for a reason and also are original, you've done all this other original stuff, lock tabs just are correct... keep up the videos, great seeing this work being kept alive.. all I do now is work on my Nissan patrol diesel and think about building engine like this ......

[@flyingmerkel6]

What's the difference between a TR5 & a TR4? That's one of my favorite British sports cars.

[@ClassicMotorFilms]

The TR5 was known as the TR250 in the US. It had the 6 cylinder engine that would go into the TR6. The TR4 was a 4 cylinder unit. @@flyingmerkel6

[@flyingmerkel6]

@@ClassicMotorFilms Thanks for the clarification, I had the sad experience of watching a TR4 rot away outside over a span of years. Wish I could have saved it. if only for the parts.

[@fredgrove4220]

I can't believe you assembled that crank/ block without lubrication.The worst wear in an engines life is in the first 20 seconds with a dry engine, until the oil circulates, it is steel on steel. I come from Coventry, the home of Jaguar, and have had Jags for many years, and do all my own maintenance, including rebuilding my engines.

[@samrodian919]

To be fair Fred, he actually did lube the crank, it was in the fast forward section. Then he went on to bang down the mains from one end to the other instead of from centre outwards lol

[@cratecruncher6687]

I rolled my rope seals in with a socket without trimming the length, If you trim off extra you didn't seat the seal properly and it will leak. Mine hasn't leaked a drop in over 20 years.

[@johntripp5159]

A pal of mine bought a rebuilt Norton Atlas and we went to a Bowen island cottage center for the weekend. you guessed it, the tabs weren't bent up and the journal nut came off the big end so the engine went but the bike didn't, for the lack of a nail...

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Ouch, hope that doesn't happen here.

[@samrodian919]

Richard Michael Owen well it won't happen if you use the lock tabs will it?

[@NorthSaintPaulNews]

Always keep the journals covered with something especially if your cleaning... Stuff falls in that you can't see with your eyes.. 40 year Airplane Turbine Mechanic.

[@dntlss]

Definitely always a good idea specially on a Airplane engine,you can't just pullover if the engine seizes. anytime Ive built a engine and i have to leave it overnight for any reason it gets covered,when it comes to building engines being OCD and Anal are special attributes.

[@jeffreyprice773]

In the dealership we had the rear main seal sizing tool shown in your book. We never cut the seal.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Fantastic! I would pay $$$ for something like that.

[@canabox7112]

No idea why I am here. I've never owned a British car and I never will but this is my 5th one LOL. Good job

[@chrishartley1210]

You had the old crankshaft plugs, you could have cut grooves into one of them with a triangular file and made your own tap. You also don't risk damaging the new plug.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Chris, Great idea, love it.

[@EngineTuning]

Ha Chris! You beat me to it :D

[@samrodian919]

Exactly what i would have done.

[@pauloconnor7951]

Suggestion: tape the bearing surfaces, and rust converter wipe the rest. and clean immediately off.

[@TheDaf95xf]

Neat job 👍🏻

[@maytagmark2171]

Your Evaporust or Molasses soak would have been the ideal method to clean the crankshaft of rust. It would not hurt any clean surfaces.

[@sonyhk3824]

Well done guys

[@geoffmorgan6059]

Aircraft engine rebuilders use pecan or walnut shells to blast things clean. Never, ever use a true abrasive on engine parts. (Sorry to nit pick, but the valve retainers are "collets", not "cotters". Cotters are a form of tapered pin. All the best.)

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Geoff, thanks for the comment, great to hear more love for walnut blasting. Just checked the manual they list Collar and Cotter for the two small retainers.

[@geoffmorgan6059]

@@RichardMichaelOwen Must be Scottish!

[@samrodian919]

Richard Michael Owen then that must have been re written for the American market! The correct word in England is a Collet as Geoff Morgan says a cotter pin is a tapered pin with a corresponding tapered flat on it. They used to be used to lock bicycle pedals onto the crank shaft with the flat on the cotter engaging with a flat machined onto the crankshaft and a nut and washer pulling the tapered pin in to lock it. Oh and by the way i completely agree that the main bearing caps should be pulled up from the centre outwards .Never from one end to another. Hope you don't do that to customers engines!! And also you should have used proper honing stones to finish the bores after your ball hone.

[@sageotime]

Good quality picture work. I do have a question. Why do you not use assembly lube on crankshaft bearings such as Clevite, Red Line, Royal Purple, Amsoil, etc.? Dry surface on bearings?

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

I do put assembly lube on, it's just in the sped up portion. My mistake I should have made it more clear

[@alantorrance6153]

16:40. Not using "lock tabs"? Use them! Does not cost much extra, but adds a lot to security and peace of mind. I remember, after reconditioning and rebuilding my Morris/Austin 1300 (circa 1970's) type gearbox being advised of the need to ensure torques for the gear-selectors were correct (I had done that -- carefully) as they were one of the first things to put back when rebuilding. It would be a total rebuild if they came undone (and according to "sods law", if they did come undone, it would be when you are miles from anywhere and need a transporter to get you back to civilisation). Well -- same principle applies here. "Do it correctly the first time, and that includes using those pesky "lock tabs".

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Modern cars don't use lock tabs, but I will fit them in your engine by request.

[@MrOnegesius]

Don't use silicone sealer. It can bead up, break off and block oil lines. We had an engine to recon that this happened to with less than 1000 K's from it's previous reconditioning! Use non hardening/beading sealers like Permatech..

[@silva-anderida7695]

Nice one.Thanks.

[@chrismacleod3947]

Lock tabs are there for a resin

[@jagvette1]

hey Richard, I have re-built more XKE engines than I care to remember but unfortunately some of the work was sent away and I did not get familiar with best practices, it seems you know a little bit about these engines :) and your dad has some basic knowledge :)), with the slush plugs in the crank once I have removed them (which I have) should I put new ones in or is it OK to re-use the old ones with Locktite ?

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Great to hear from you. As long as the threads are okay on the old plugs and holes I would re-peen them back in. Locktite is okay, but has a heat limit.

[@Albdentist]

I have a tech question: did you hot tank the block ? Is there any reason not to ?

[@lrowlands53]

Shit! I wouldn't take to a sealing surface as somewhere to attack anything with a hammer. Gees Dad!

[@shanedoyle1057]

Hi. Really enjoy the series. Could anyone tell me what was the test being done with the red markings and the gauge? And how does it work?

[@neilmicklewright5630]

This is a means of testing the clearance of the crank main journals to their individual shell bearings. A thin piece of malleable plastic of known dimensions is squashed between the crank journal and it's shell bearing. Once fully squashed, the piece of plastic is then measured with the specialized gauge (looks like a marked ruler) and the width of the now squashed plastic correlates to a measurement on the gauge. In this instance, the 'width' of the squashed plastic correlated to a difference of two thousandths of an inch, meaning that the gap between the crank journal and the shell bearing was within the manufacturers specification for correct fit and clearance. This method is widely used by engine builders and is manufactured by a company called Plastigauge. Hope that makes sense.

[@philstarr9577]

Hello, Did you have any difficulty installing the rear hatch window?

[@AY.Classic]

hi do you know from were i can find Big End Bearing std2347

[@wbaiv]

GREAT video sequence! I envy you! But several things puzzle me. When the light shines straight down the bores, It looks like there's still stuff in the oil passages of the crankshaft. Shouldn't the whole oil system have been flushed out before putting it back together? Block, crank, connecting rods, gudgeon pins and pistons. Or am I over-fastidious? If there was ever an application for pressure and gunk removing chemicals, this would seem to be it. Hand cleaning feels productive but there's residue on everything. Second- there's a pink-gold cast to the block casting where the crankshaft is bolted. Seems unlikely to have been painted, is it light surface rust? If not, where does the pink color come from? Third- the block-to-head water passages look partially blocked with whiteish solid stuff when the head and block are separated. Whatever that white stuff is, it seems to be on cylinders in the water jacket. Should the cooling system also get flushed and cleaned up? The openings at the head gasket are larger and cleaner as rebuilding starts, but not spotless.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

The crank was hot tanked but, as you saw I still needed to clean up some residue in the sludge plug holes. As for the rest when you remove the oil sometimes things look stained, that's just the way it is.

[@wbaiv]

@@RichardMichaelOwen - thank you, I'll bear that in mind next time I hot tank a crankshaft. So I learned something there, and I still envy you!

[@paulrobertson3685]

Just doing mine now.. I have bought new bearings....some have a groove and some bearings are smooth . Where does each one go? Anyone help? Thank you

[@rayfirth2513]

Crankshaft in and torqued up but cant see any oil around them or were it has run down the mains webs, please tell me you havn't built it up dry.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

If you look closely in the sped up footage I put assembly lube on the main bearings. It's a special type that doesn't need alot, looks clean doesn't it?

[@jagvette1]

hey Richard what are you thoughts on Glyptal inside the engine to aid oil flow ?, with the exception of the oil pan as you want it to stay there for a moment

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Sure I think the Glyptal helps, but not entirely necessary. Does lock in the cast iron which is nice for corrosion.

[@jagvette1]

@@RichardMichaelOwen thanks for responding, can we see more on the XK150 and have you guys ever done a MKII Jaguar, I'm restoring mine, if you have time check it out on jagvette1.

[@ZMO999]

Why the bearings box has arabic writing on it and why it’s says made in Australia for a jaguar parts?

[@dntlss]

Man i love these videos,not a engine i would wanna rebuild since I'm used to the "normal" run of the mill engines and i mean this as a compliment,i wish you would stop calling it "my junk engine" lol,as mechanics that work on these engines pretty regularly what would you say was the rarity of this engine from 1 to 5, 5 being rarest?

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

There are lots of 4.2 blocks around, they used them in the Saloons, but to find one with all-E-Type hardware is rare I think.

[@area85restorations75]

Not trying to knock this amazing build but dont you normally soak those rope seals for a couple days?

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

I don't think it mentioned that in the shop manual. I think it's definitely an option.

[@rogerbush2226]

@@RichardMichaelOwen Graphite impregnated rope seals shouldn't be soaked in anything - the graphite (long term lubricant) gets washed out of the seal.

[@area85restorations75]

@@rogerbush2226 The one I put in my Datsun was graphite as well. The shop manual specified to soak it.

[@grayswandir47]

Don't sandblast. Look into Media blast. Crushed walnut or pecan shell doesn't remove metal but it will remove rust, paint, primer etc.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Love the crushed walnut, use it on almost all our aluminum.

[@garyrhodes7089]

Dads are grate aren't they

[@pauloconnor7951]

Dads are great when they don't grate !. Yes; Dads are awesome. I adore mine !

[@TR4zest]

Some grate, but the best are great.

[@MikhailScottKy]

I have to ask. WHY did you not hot tank the head - crankshaft - block? This would have removed all debris and foreign material.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Just did the crank, it didn't really even need it, very clean inside.

[@paulrobertson3685]

found out everybody........grooved ones go onto the block, and the smooth go sump side.

[@RobertKohut]

Nice!!

[@fredarendse4932]

What about the tolerance between pistons and cylinder bushes? I missed you checking them... Usually with a major overhaul you replace them observing the A-Z tolerance in the service manual....

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Do you mean the gudgeon pin/wrist pin small end bushings?

[@fredarendse4932]

No, I mean the cylinders. I would replace pistons and cylinder bushes. cold insert method. did that with a 3.4

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

@@fredarendse4932, oh the liners! Yes maybe with the next rebuild, this is a budget build.

[@fredarendse4932]

Gotcha! Nice work though. Chapeau. KZbin changed lots since the time I worked on Jags...

[@marcryvon]

Hi Richard ! The honed cylinders look pretty rough. Could'nt you kind of "polish" them using a brake master cylinder like honer. You know, the ones with soft stone "pads" ? Just asking... I'm not naysaying here at all. Just curious.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Marc, I think that's the idea, the rough surface beds the piston rings.

[@marcryvon]

@@RichardMichaelOwen Thanks for the info, Richard.

[@2aklamath]

Cut groves in the plug that sort of makes a chasing thread Don't use locktite ! or it will never come out easy

[@empirecases4128]

Did you actually end up trimming the rope seal? Instead of using the tool for fitting the seal couldn't the actual crank be used, or is that just avoided because it would be cumbersome?

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Not sure if the crank would provide the clearance, might just lock it up.

[@empirecases4128]

@@RichardMichaelOwen Would you mind sharing the dimensions and a pic of that tool? Maybe I can get my friend to machine a tool that I can use to fit my seals. By the way, very good videos, helpful, direct and well produced for the intent.

[@empirecases4128]

@@RichardMichaelOwen I'll send a email address if you don't mind sharing the info.

[@empirecases4128]

@@RichardMichaelOwen Actually I could call your shop rather than putting my email in public view, I'm in Canada as well.If, you're ok with that. Thanks

[@malcolmnicholls2893]

Therapeutic to watch, great. (do you live near Kermit the Frog-UK)?

[@yardlimit8695]

in one of the videos for this restoration i heard you mention SU carbs............what does the SU stand for.........thanks...........

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Skinner-Union apparently

[@andrew_koala2974]

The SU Carburettor was also used on the Rolls Royce Merlin V12 which powered the Spitfire. And al;so powered a US made aircraft -- Who knows which one? ( I know the answer, but who else knows it?) It was Herbert Skinner who invented the invented his Union carburettor in 1904 S. U. Company Limited > Skinner-Union < was incorporated in August 1910 to acquire Herbert's carburettor invention.

[@empirecases4128]

Hey Richard, did you get my email with the photos of the manifold and exhaust?

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Yes, sorry busy week working on the car. Did you find the rear manifold?

[@empirecases4128]

Richard Michael Owen unfortunately not, just what I sent in the photos. Will look in another place but no idea what happened to it. Has to be somewhere.

[@oskar22fridolin17]

The most perfect hone traces must be 90 degre with a very ruff stone grade - following / finishing with a very fine stone also same 90 degre. The hole is then more rounded and straightend. - If the stones dont cut, - lower the RPM ( the stones work as softer). Use new or calibrated / stones. Read Sunnen thruing operation of a stone. -----The shown schratches is from a hone but hawe done no good.

[@bob1947essex]

I never saw any lube go on those bearings before fitting

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Yes, it was in the sped up portion.

[@alantorrance6153]

15:55 "oil thrower" or "oil thrower ring" in English.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Good to know

[@rhyoliteaquacade]

@@RichardMichaelOwen Air cooled VW Engines have a deep counter thread and separate "oil slinger" as the "rear seal" which is the pulley end of the crankshaft on a VW. I learned the hard way that a blocked breather will force oil to bypass that "seal" . There is nothing except the crank and the slinger ring to keep oil in at that point. At the flywheel end is a neoprene seal.

[@johnfalkenstine8377]

Often these cylinders wear in a bell shape so this honing is a waste of time. The block should go to a machine shop.

[@htimsid]

Will the machine-shop hone the bores by machine (i.e. more precise control of the pattern) or use a different process?

[@jdsmort]

Not even plastiguaging all the mains?

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Hi Dave, great to have you along. Just did the few in the video.

[@garybeck-t3v]

No assembly lube???

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

At the time I used this clear product called archoil and I didn't want to show it in the videos

[@couttsw]

I notice that he comments on doing everything properly, yet running a bottoming tap through it is not an option, just go buy the tap and keep it for the next engine. Rattle guns? would not have been used for engine construction in late 60's and early 70's, no idea how tight the bolts were torqued. The plastiguage was a good idea, but not used on all bearing surfaces, just the 2?

[@jonremmers7723]

10:09: Risky bisquits!!!

[@danhard8440]

that crankshaft is going to be living in oil I don't think you need to worry about rust haa haaa

[@joeblow5244]

Assembly lube?

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

It was during the sped up part

[@fubartotale3389]

I was interested till you brought out the ball hone. I guess all you're looking for is a trailer queen, I guess.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

1000s of miles on this engine now with no issues

[@greghenry8803]

Makes me nervous seeing that hood so close to the engine.

[@westschleife]

Mahle = Pronounced 'Molly'

[@dntlss]

Learn something new everyday,i always pronounced it "Mall" like "lets go to the Mall" lol

[@ClotEastwood]

Re bore. .new pistons . grind the crank. . new bearings & thrust washers. . . . fit new valve guides . . . .cut the valve seats and face valves . .face the head and cylinder block . . new oil pump. . .new water pump.. . . all new head studs, main cap and big end cap bolts. . . new timing cain aduster and slippers. . new timing chains. .. . . just do it right. . . Your putting this in a "Restoration/rebuild car. . I know its your junk engine . . . but . . noooooooooooooooooooooo . . all that work for a second rate job. . . criminal At least fit a new alternator belt . . ha ha ha ha

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

If this was a how-to, or a top rate build, you know the video would be a lot different. Not the goal with this series.

[@malcolmnicholls2893]

No problem to use a good engine checked over and re-assembled imho.

[@evanjones2539]

I think it's a dry sleeved engine... re-sleeve... back to as new spec..