My Junk E-Type Engine Part 6

[@adamskikijowski9139]

You very lucky to have a great dad to help you along and pass the skills. I rebuilt my fist one in 1974 and completely cocked it up however Have now rebuilt my XK engine from lifelong skills and it runs great.Little advice-Use some cheaper oil to get it running and after the first hour change the oil and filter. You'll be amazed how dirt still is in there however careful you are. This will avoid any grit or swarf causing damage.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Adam. Great to hear from you. I agree, this engine was pretty surface corroded inside so a quick oil flush would probably be best. To be honest I didn't clean it all that thoroughly either.

[@Ambrosius50]

I like his respect for his 'dad' and the respect for how the engine was buildt. Not just wasting good parts if it's within tolerance.

[@friguy4444]

I'm just binge watching these and really want it to go on and on until you've got heading down the highway and making that sweet, Sweet Jaguar growl! Thank you once more for the great content!

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Soon enough we will have this on the road!

[@beaufighterx]

Absolutely fascinating to watch! Great camera work, Richard. Nice and close with good focus. I admire the skills and knowledge of you and your Dad. Thanks for sharing, really enjoyed this whole process!

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Great to have you along. Thanks for watching.

[@cbmsysmobile]

Nice plus points for using a piston ring spreader. Mind you I did have a small heart attack when the hammer appeared, almost shouted no don't hit the piston with the metal hammer head but fortunately you were only using it to seat the ring compressor before correctly using the handle to tap the piston in!

[@blairguinea6811]

Just lovin this clever technical build of this beautiful - junk brit engine, thanks guys

[@SpatialDragon]

Man I did an engine like this, it was a sbc, with just cleaning it by hand and a few tools like you are using. With the dingle ball tool and the ring expander. It ran fine, always a little loose but it ran for many years. It was done this way for decades. But it is good to see someone doing it these days.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Yeah not a top job for the junk engine. Hopefully I will get away with doing just the bare minimum.

[@marcryvon]

Say Richard, I saw you reusing many crusty original bolts. Te;ll me that you cleaned them all with a wire wheel, especially the threads ! I really enjoy your series on this awesome engine. Thanks !

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

They will work just fine, despite the appearance.

[@pauloconnor7951]

That was off camera, Marc Rene, he didn't want to bore us with house keeping :)

[@Batman-wv5ng]

Marc René Yvon He should replace them with new once they cheap .

[@richardmason902]

3:30 Nice TD in the background - Looks beautiful.

[@TheDaf95xf]

Loving this rebuild 👍🏻🇬🇧

[@wojtekpawlowski4951]

Thanks for your series on this engine. I watch every video couple of times. My junk xj6 coupe with inline 6 is waiting for restoration :)

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Awesome, love the XJ6 and the MKX. If you convert it to manual be sure to the extended remote shifter.

[@welldone2016]

Dad have everything, great Video

[@blackvulcan100]

Loving this, I have things to do but they will just have to wait untill I see the engine run...

[@jeffreyprice773]

I thought crankshaft end float is 0.003" to 00.5" We used to grind away a bit of the front main cap so you didn't have to remove the dizzy gear. Used to get score marks on the edges of the oil pump rotor and inside the star. Hope you didn't line up the gaps in the piston rings, rist/risk pins ? , gudgin pins. I would have liked a piston ring tool like that 50 years ago. When fitting new pistons the numbers on the con rods went to the exhaust side if i remember corectly. Cheers from uk.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Jeffery, thanks for your comments. I just checked the manual both 3.8 and 4.2 and they list 0.003 to 0.006 end float. Yeah the pump looked great, just the drive on it from the distributor gear was a little worn. Your right we should have made the ring gap placement more clear.

[@chrispbacon3042]

That repair manual is very bloody detailed with its information. Not sure if I have seen a manual like it.

[@silva-anderida7695]

Excellent viewing.Thanks.

[@michaelbrind9222]

you could do with an ultrasonic cleaner for those pistons etc

[@johncone9516]

When you first started to take the pistons out one or two of the Gudgeon/ wrist pins were tight, i would of taken them all out but it depends whether they are fully floating or shrink fit in the piston.

[@dalybaz]

I'm sure I saw a circlip for a brief moment there in the side of a piston suggests to me they are fully floating. I have never heard of shrink fit in a piston, maybe you mean heat/press/shrink fit into the connecting rods ala Small block Chevy/Cooper 'S' etc.

[@dalybaz]

Looking again, yeah, press fit, no circlips

[@johncone9516]

@@dalybaz Hi Baz, my Vincent motorcycle has shrink fit gudgeon pins. You have to heat the pistons in an oven to expand them and very quickly slip the pin through the piston and rod then fit the circlips.

[@dalybaz]

@@johncone9516 Way cool. (no pun intended) That's one way to cure a rattle. I take it that the circlips are there to prevent bore scoring in case of an engine overheat. I've really only had experience with BMC 'A' series engines. The 850s and 997s and minors had pinch bolt gudgeons, the 998s and 1098s had fully floating pins with circlips while the Cooper 's' and 1275 Spridgets had an interference fit on the conrods. All rather confusing really. If you are hotting up a minor 1000 you pinch the pistons and rods from a 998. The maximum I ever got a Minor was 105 thou oversize using +60thou 998 Mini pistons. Another good mod is to use Teflon plugs to replace the circlips which have a habit of jumping out at high revs, with obvious consequences.

[@joensab]

Great rebuilds, interesting and informative. Great Dad. Curious if you do use ultra sonic cleaning for parts.?

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Ultrasonic would be nice. I use my friend's parts washer.

[@markamcampbell6340]

try a little oil in the cylinder and ring compressor to mark the install easy.

[@Batman-wv5ng]

markam campbell All rings should be oiled before assembly .

[@andreivacaroiu8209]

Nice Sequel to follow when rebuilding these engines! I'm curious what type of piston rings did you choose? Do you have any suggestions based on the wear of the block?

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

I think those were Hastings

[@andreivacaroiu8209]

@@RichardMichaelOwen are those Hastings iron, chrome or moly kind of rings? I'm not sure what to choose

[@AndrewBryantPianoTuner]

E-type engine were never Junk!

[@chromemutt]

Easily best show on You Tube but your scaring me with how close your working to the E type bonnet also why don't you sonic clean the bolts? But what do I know thanks guys excellent

[@couttsw]

Hmm Lock Tabs, they were put there for a reason and old technology or not, they have a specific application on that engine, when a bolt rattles out, you will think why didn't I use the fold over locks. I notice you folded over 1 edge of a 2 fold lock tab on the oil pump. As you have previously stated, doing a thorough job is best.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Wayne, if you take apart your new Ford/Toyota/Audi you'll find no lock tabs for good reason.

[@pauloconnor7951]

It's pronounced "Jag -you -are" (Jaguar) my good friend !. I used to work on XJ6 and RRs in California. Lots of radiator replacements on RRs :)

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Jagyouare E-Type, ok I will try my best lol.

[@pauloconnor7951]

Ha, I'm watching your 2017 OICC show vid right now. I haven't see an Austin A55 since I was driven to the bus stop for school in N.Z , mid 70's It was old even then. Probably worth $250. My mistake ; actually it's phonetically "Jag -you- ah". Silent 'h" . Or just say "JaGGG !" Like Jeremy Clarkson. :)@@RichardMichaelOwen

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

@@pauloconnor7951 thanks for watching I think my dad's first car was an A55.

[@jeroldemond]

@Paul O'Conner Yours is the British pronunciation of an animal and name who's origin is all western hemisphere. It's native Brazilian origin is ya-gwar . In USA, Canada (whence our narrator is from , it's ja-gwar. TWO syllables. When in Rome....

[@pauloconnor7951]

@@RichardMichaelOwen Richard; please say Jagyoua three times daily.

[@stevewaclo167]

As an aside, years ago I read ensuring ring gaps are staggered is not critical because rings “walk” around the pistons anyway.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

I think this is a best practice scenario

The gaps on the top 3 piston should be set at 120 degrees apart so compression does not go straight past the rings. Stagger the gaps will prevent this.

[@ormonddude]

Considering how frozen the wrist pins were completely checking them by disassembly would be a really good idea but I get it sort of a quick budget rebuild but if they have roller bearings in them they really should be checked

[@regsparkes6507]

Richard, did you folks oil the rings and cylinder walls before fitting the pistons? I have subscribed to this channel so I can watch this build up,..BUT I think I would have used all NEW bolts and nuts and certainly had those old wrist / gudgeon pins and their retainers replaced as well. I think an engine re-build in this class, (Jaguar) deserves this. I was told many years ago that " any job worth doing, is worth doing well." I am not saying you are wrong in what you are doing, I am just saying what I have done before. If I were there in your shop, I would ave asked the same question, I am merely chatting, with you.

[@dntlss]

Wow thats insane how the oil pressure is dependent on a o ring thats inside on a area that gets super hot to begin with, a flange on the pump and on the pick up tube with a gasket and bolts would have solved this easily from the factory, guess it works that way though.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

It is flanged on one side that feeds crank, but I the flexibility of of the o-ring at the pump makes it way easier to install/produce

[@jagvette1]

you call it the wrist pin I call it the gudgeon pin :) either way how do you get it to turn, without taking it apart ?

[@charliegrantham2372]

I have a 1971 E type, 4.2 Series 2. It is certainly in need of an engine / transmission rebuild. How can I contact you about pricing?

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Charlie, our shop is Owen Automotive. 2506554338. Thanks!

[@richl9825]

Why didn't you service the gudgeon pins?

[@alexyo3927]

If it's not worn, broken or out of spec why replace it. Good job so far!

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

EXACTLY!!!

[@perjanuschas8050]

The simple answer to why is metal fatigue. Imhop, all fasteners, bolts, nuts, washers etc. should have been replaced with new ones just like bearings and seals.

[@SamCreecy]

Did ya check the wrist pin keepers ?

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Didn't take the wrist pins out

[@danhard8440]

that block looks more solid built then the Nissan 2JZ

[@2aklamath]

end play ?must come off a unit with a Manuel transmission !

[@jagvette1]

OK Richard I don't know if this has been mentioned before but unless your dad has a gun at your head it is obvious that you have a great deal of knowledge (and also its obvious you dad does too), I love your video's and if you weren't that you live in freezy ass Can Nah Da I'd even visit you (so be thankful, a million questions have do I). I am currently re-building my MKII XK engine and was going to be sending you a couple of questions through your website but cannot find a Email address ??

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Thanks for watching, just list your questions here

[@jagvette1]

OK you asked :) as I do not have access to all the tools you have when sizing the crank seal is it possible to use the crank and do it in stages, ie: crank in lower seal in place then remove do it again with upper half in place ?

[@nextechsolutions5955]

Isn't it a good idea to have the block head decked with an unknown engine?!?

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Didn't want to deck unless absolutely necessary, this build was about keeping it original.

[@christopherward5065]

I half expected to see parts being polished and lapped.

[@davidrapalyea7727]

Do weight and match the piston assemblies?

[@dntlss]

I believe this is done when installing new pistons ,rods etc,since they are reusing the same pistons and rods this process was done 50 something years ago, wouldn't hurt to check them though.

[@jeffreyprice773]

Used to cut a piston in half across the gudgin pin hole to use as an ash tray?

[@canabox7112]

I suppose it doesn't make enough power to matter but I think I would have used new rod bolts anyway.

[@russellesimonetta3835]

I,m curious,,,,, 1000$ bucks for the engine... i,ve seen the oil pan for 1000 pounds!! I am wondering what the value of a restored engine like yours is.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

No idea. If this was built for resale it would be a more thorough and expensive.

[@educatedmanholecoverbyrich8890]

You should never, ever use the old cap bolts. These would have stretched. They might break. Always use new.

[@white-wy6dg]

Totally agree! cutting costs here is stupid and could wreck your engine if one fails.

[@blackvulcan100]

My wife has just shouted to me I watching porn again ? ..yes dear I surly am,might be here for quite a while yet !

[@altonriggs2352]

Rube Goldberg at his best.

[@couttsw]

Thankfully Dad doesn't use impact wrench.

[@EliteRock]

A little late in the day, but I would have shot-peened the piston crowns.

[@davidskupien456]

Old video, but i will still leave a comment . Why not re-tin piston/skirts for lubricity? Also, all should use extreme caution ballerizing block or using scotch brite. Both leave silicon carbide abrasive, no matter how well you clean. I’ve looked at 100 engines with electron microscope after rebuild where SiC contaminants were the cause of the failure. Either spun bearings of scuffed piston. Clean carefully if used (thorough rinse with solvent).

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Thanks for the tip. I usually rinse with brake cleaner.

[@TheNimshew]

You’re not replacing the wrist Pins? Tsk,tsk.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Keeping this one junky

[@BubbaTGanew]

That will be in the last video.

[@Sixguns1]

I was with you all the way until you said you're not replacing the rod bolts!! Whaaaa.....aat??? You spent all of that time and money cleaning, prepping, replating bolts, nuts, washers but you reuse the rod bolts? It's lunacy, plain and simple. Those bolts have been stretched, have seen many cycles and are fatigued and should never be reused. God blessed you with a all original standard bore block, perfect uncut crank and you risk it all by not replacing the single most important fastener in the engine...SMH

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Let's see, time will tell. I think this engine was fairly low mileage. I have seen many rebuilt Jaguar engines with original rod bolts, they seem to hold up.

[@Sixguns1]

@@RichardMichaelOwen Thank you for replying, and I wish you nothing but the best of luck with the engine and car. I love the old Jags and the thought of that rare, near new engine pitching a rod thru the side of the block and destroying it gives me chills and would be a very sad day.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

@@Sixguns1 yes I agree, would like to make a high-revving 3.8 sometime, then we would want arp rod bolts

[@robertmatthews7527]

WolverineLiving living YOU are so RIGHT. I always replace any fastener under stress. Oh well it's his engine but .....whew