My Junk E-Type Engine Part 7

[@JohnCarey1963Jag]

great tips and good work Richard.

[@JohnCarey1963Jag]

@Lawson Quincy What is Fixzone and how do I find it? I googled it and no video showed.

[@ralphvandereb66]

your dad seems to be a legend and a bottomless depth of knowledge, awesome

[@U_ever]

Top drawer work here gentlemen. Two surprises for me in this video however; the first being how nonchalant you were about not heeding your dad's advise on the type of silicon to use, and second how calm your dad was about your not following his recommendation. The dynamics or the relationship the two of you share is remarkable. Please keep these videos coming. Love your work, your subject matter and your exit music.

[@petahertz5855]

loving the finishes on the bolts

[@valshenton2486]

Great set of videos..........rebuilding 66 roaster and you are renewing my enthusiasm!. Thank you

[@perpetualjon]

God I hope you get some more subscribers. The love and passion you have for your work really shows and It's a joy to watch. Keep it up mate!

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Thanks for the motivation! I will keep going with these.

[@sumkunt0r]

Richard Michael Owen i must admit my preference is for working on old bike engines. I have only worked on one 4.2 Jaguar engine It had a blown head gasket. When i tried to remove the head one of the long studs just kept turning and would not undo - the acorn nut was stuck to the stud and could not be undone. I eventually cut off the acorn nut and ground it away with an angle grinder and die grinder. After removing as many of the studs by the double nut method you used i managed to get the head off at which point i found that the stud that i had to grind off had at some point in the past stripped right out of the block and had been replaced with a shorter stud with a nut on the bottom catching the underside of the block water jacket this in time had rusted to the stud making removing it really difficult. I had to remove the closest core plug (freeze plug i think you call them) and attack the nut on the rogue stud with a tiny long bit in a die grinder. After many hours of work i got it out and then was faced with how to repair it. It was obvious that the bodged broken stud repair had caused the head gasket to fail and the engine had been run for a long time without antifreeze as the block was filled beyond the top of the core plug with rust, the water pump was also full of rust and beyond repair. After flushing the block with a power hose for ages and removing all the other core plugs we could reach (the engine was still in the car) i could see what i had to do. The threads that the stud screwed into were totally rusted out - a good stud would drop right into the hole and rattled about. as it was so hard to reach i figured that a helicoil would not fix it and even if it would there was no tool that could fit a helicoil so deep in the block. I decided to make a double threaded sleeve as thin as i could with the original female thread to fit the stud and male thread on the outside. I cleaned up the hole in the cylinder head slightly and made a bush to guide the drill, replaced the head temporarily and drilled the hole to size then removed the head and used another custom made bush to fit the reduced shank of a very long tap i was able to obtain from my employer. Luckily they had been in business since 1895 and therefore had all sorts of taps of extremely long lengths. I then used a stud to screw in the insert which i coated in stud lock and let it set up. after refitting the head the studs were torqued down and the leak was cured. This was one of those jobs you would only do for yourself or a very close friend. If it had been a paying job it would have been cheaper to buy another engine :)

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

What a fantastic fix. Those early heads which have the studs on the deck are so much easier to deal with. Thanks for sharing

[@cobrajetter]

And you did all that with the engine installed in the car?

[@sumkunt0r]

@@cobrajetter yes

[@benrumson1063]

NON related question. @ 3:14 I see a TR in the back. Pre 74 by the bumper. I use to have a french blue '74 with overdrive. Always searching for it, hoping to see if it's still alive somewhere. But you do some good work, treasure your father. You're lucky to work with him.

[@TheLovie999]

It is impressive as to how many chief engineers have watched this video and have left comments regarding improvements. The one I did like was the one regarding the tripod. ; - )) Keep up the great work, Mr Owen.

[@ClassicCarCave]

Richard, Great video and top tips, An old Jaguar engine builder showed me a neat trick with the front timming gear, You turn the engine upside down on the stand so you use gravity to fit the twin camshaft gears as they hang down perfectly! Cheers Dave

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

yes that makes sense, thanks for watching

[@rgadave]

Love your enthusiasm !.

[@JosephArata]

Those sleds are called chain guides, they prevent the chain from slapping around in the timing case. Regardless, I'm very happy to see this technology on such an old engine. A lot of manufacturers didn't start doing timing chains with hydraulic tensioners as standard till the late 1990s.

[@canabox7112]

3.5 Chrysler one's in the late 90s failed miserably and destroyed a lot of engines

[@davidhannah943]

Vapor blasting produces an incredible finish! The original, plated hardware is, as you say, automotive jewelry. Some "restorers" don't care about details such as using O.E. hardware-in the past (when decrepit parts cars were inexpensive), we have purchased entire cars just to get the original brackets, nuts, bolts, and other fasteners! For a quality restoration, it's all in the details......

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

HI David. Totally agree, love saving the old hardware vs generic stuff from the hardware store.

[@tonygriffiths2485]

Great to see how many different British cars you have there. MG signs etc. Not sure bout this, but over there in US of A you only got rubber bumper MG's. Over here they are not as popular as Chrome ones, which do look better. When I was trundling down a Motoray in my 'B' The roof was a sliding hatch and a wide green plastic airfoil which swiveled up and redirected the passing air so well that cigarette smoke would be a straight plume right the way up to the roof ! with overdrive in 3rd and 4th I loved that motor. The most comfy car I ever drove. Went into the back of a Toyota on a foot of snow when a retired sailor decided to drop something right in the middle of a dual carriagway ..... bang ! Inner slitch gone, so was my stage 3 tuned 'B' !

[@CharlieVane21]

US of A? I'd have bet money they're Canadian.

[@TR4zest]

I am learning a lot. Thank you.

[@canabox7112]

All Wurst products are awesome!

[@johnnymac26]

gonna say it again sir you are a master

[@foxbatmotorsports]

I've been searching for a 3.8l or 4.2l in rebuildable condition and it's becoming quite a challenge. I really think this needs to be my next project at Foxbat Motorsports.

[@jeffreyprice773]

We used to put the hydraulic tensioner out one click.

[@Nebulax123]

I use Three Bond 1184 sealer you don't have to worry about chunks of silicone getting loose inside the engine and blocking an oil port. Have not used silicone in years.

[@blairguinea6811]

way too much awesomeness !

[@maytagmark2171]

Where you used silicone gasket sealer, I would use Permatex #2 Soft Set. A thin coat. My concern with silicone is small beads can end up squeezing inside and come loose and plug an oil gallery. I like Permatex Aviation Gasket Sealer in those positions as well. Also known as Indian Head Gasket Shellac.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

I've worked on modern cars that have no gaskets and they all call for silicon seal. Like around the trans pan, had lots of sucess with no leaks. We use soft set on the head gaskets.

[@edmundolsen7723]

Like it,very interesting,thanks.

[@ingeholstjacobsen2898]

Familiar with those engines from way back. All very nice and pretty with your engine. BUT - when you mounted the timing cover I noticed the driest chain assemblies I've ever seen. Usually I leave the chains to soak in a pan of oil for some minutes before assembly to get oil into every pin of the chains. I'm sure you did something similar. I hope. Otherwise they tend to stretch unnecessary much during the initial run. It's not bad to have a thin oil film on the sealing surfaces at the ends of the crank either. To prevent the seals from misplacement or squeezing during the first few revolutions.

[@dntlss]

Those sound like great tips, i dont build Jaguar engines but I'm sure i can apply it to other things.

[@n1352-m1i]

I prefer to use Wellseal over RTV silicone as much as I can, except only a few locations like the pan/crank rubber corners for instance : if a smidge of it gets into the oil and somehow makes its way into blocking a small oil passage (e.g. camshaft area) this can result in an expensive rebuilt down the road...

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Yeah, have to be careful around the rope seal and the oil way on the crank.

[@sumkunt0r]

@@RichardMichaelOwen I Hate silicone in engines i have found loads of it caught in filter screens and in oilways. my preference is for Blue Hylomar as if it gets inside the engine it gets broken up and does not clog anything. Blue hylomar is approved by Rolls Royce for metal to metal joints on aircraft engines.

[@sumkunt0r]

I like wellseal for use with gaskets. Blue Hylomar for metal to metal joints.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

@@sumkunt0r my dad wants wellseal, where do you get it?

[@sumkunt0r]

@@RichardMichaelOwen second link in google if you search "wellseal usa" www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3304

[@joensab]

Nice TR6 in backround, we going to see more of it?

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

If I had all the time I could do some more. Have to finish this engine first!

[@MrTuffarts]

I worked for a chain place years ago and someone bought in a timing chain from old Jag. it looks like yours is in same boat, it is a standard AS F type (flat sides) duplex chain, if your local chain supplier has pinned links he can put the chain together for you at half the price a parts supplier would charge, all you need to know is how many links it is

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Those were IWIS chains in the video from Germany

[@sonyhk3824]

Your dad doing well. Cheers guys

[@richardporter6201]

Great fun to watch, did you notice that stray nut on floor near the end?

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

wow, yeah, to be honest the shop can get somewhat messy at times.

[@kawonnowak]

Dad sounds like has has 10 percent British accent... I'm guessing that once upon a time it was 100 percent. Maybe. His expertise is phenomenal.

[@robbovius]

This episode is of particular interest to me, as I'l be going over a 1985 4.2 out of an XJ6. I'm a little surprised that you didn't also replace the timing gears, to match the new chains. Not necessary?

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

The lower-most crankshaft sprocket gets worn first, but this engine was low-mileage. The sprocket teeth get sharp when they start to go. Thanks for watching.

[@lenhodges8667]

Great video’s ! Which book do you use ?

[@keyboarddancers7751]

Dampener - something which creates dampness. Damper - something which reduces shock or vibration.

[@wallaceadriandalessio2650]

At what video time code do the chain and gear timing marks get aligned?

[@KellyMurphy]

I was thinking the same thing, should've shown where the timing marks are and how they are aligned.

[@maxallan4007]

There are no timing marks on the sprockets or chains. The timing is set when the chain sprockets are aligned and bolted to the camshafts.

[@cljsd007]

XJ 6 Serry 3 Engine ?

[@frankoconnell3235]

Did you put block sealer in this display engine?

[@pauloconnor7951]

"Dad wants me to use this... but I'm going to use this !" :) :)

[@proberts34]

Yes, but it didn't degenerate into an argument, with one of them calling the other stupid then throwing a handful of tools across the shop. :)

[@yvesbarriere2922]

Hi. Which shop manual are you using? Thanks

[@danhard8440]

that block looks more solid built then the Nissan 2JZ

[@dylanekans]

Hey. Do you know the bolt sequence on the timing cover?

[@sebastianbarnhardt433]

I can't imagine using silicone to seal gaskets, it will never dissolve in the engine oil and can block oil passages, there are many other more suitable gasket sealers such as Gasgacinch, I am also surprised that you didn't use engine assembly lube on the bearings, wrist pins, and piston skirts and especially in the oil pump. I know that vasoline is very old school but I haven't seen it used in an engine in 40 plus years.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Sebastian, great to hear from you. You will be happy to know I used a very thin assembly lube, but I didn't want the product in the video. Silicone, well this motor is absolutely leak free except one spot where I didn't use silicone!

[@johnburns4017]

Did you put the rubber oil pipe back onto the side of the sump pan? Wouldn't a modern latex tube be far better?

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

I have a very trick hose for that job, but it doesn't go on until the oil filter housing is in place.

[@gazza116]

good on ya dad

[@MrOnegesius]

Don't use silicon sealers. They bead , break off and block oil ways! I previously said "don't paint" everything on the block, leave things 'au natural' ".

[@XBullitt16X]

waiiiit, are you guys canadian ?

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Victoria BC Canada.

[@XBullitt16X]

@@RichardMichaelOwen Hahaha, the only reason I could tell was because you said "eh" a couple of times I didn't actually think I would guess correctly. Anyway been enjoying these videos, interesting stuff.

[@toprob20]

Okay, I know I'm a little OCD... But the top of the chaindrive assembly didn't look clean at all!!!!! I know a cover goes over it but still I know it's dirty. And everything else is so nice and clean, I really like that about your build!

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

It went through the washer, but yeah not the best appearance, I agree. Next step would have been blasting, but I didn't go that far with the engine internals.

[@toprob20]

@@RichardMichaelOwen Eh! I don't blame ya bro, and it's a beautifull looking project. You guys are true artisans.

[@scheusselmensch5713]

Tell ya what my friend; Ditch your silicone sealants and start buying THREEBOND/Hondabond/Yamabond (all the same stuff) for engine sealing. If you've ever wondered why Japanese engines don't leak, this is for the most part their secret. I use Hondabond, 3 or 4 grades of threadlocker, and a spray can of Permatex Copper Gasket (for reusing head gaskets on some low compression engines), and that's it for sealants in the whole shop. Threebond is magic. I've taken apart 50 year old Japanese engines that had globs of the stuff on internal surfaces. The inside sealant that had been bathed in hot oil for decades was in exactly the same condition as exterior sealant other than colour change. RTV engine sealants are crap IMHO, and they usually give an amateurish result unless applied very very carefully. RTV does seem to work well on toilet base installations though.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Thanks for watching, had lots of feedback on sealants including trying Wellseal and Hylomar. Great to hear of the Japanese alternatives.

[@AmishSpecialForces]

Don't use silicone sealant man, go with Permatex anaerobic sealant. Best stuff I've ever used, use it religiously on old Mercedes diesels, they don't leak after using it.

[@TheDaf95xf]

👍🏻🇬🇧

[@tomp538]

I agree with your pops on the use of silicone... gasgacinch.com/home/products/ would probably be a better choice for doping gaskets. But then I've never worked on an English engine, so what do I know?

[@c3dk]

Gold = Chrome 6

[@pauloconnor7951]

Not so junk ! :)

[@Agentsmith2684]

Liking the build but, oh man… way too much silicone👍

[@russellesimonetta3835]

Ahh life in america! Many jags in america get redone with v 8,s yuck.

[@amandawatson5931]

Is it even British if it doesn’t leak oil....

[@RichardDKneller]

Imbalances not unbalances