My Parts for Solar System - Off Grid Container Home

[@NETBotic]

Love it! Finally someone doing this with individual components instead of one of those giant battery bank/inverter that will likely die over something stupid like a bad cap.

[@banditboy6444]

Very much looking forward to the videos series of you setting your new property! Congrats!

[@frozenfritz]

Looking forward to your homesteading project

[@AlexanderBelikov]

Hey, please make sure that wires for PV are UV resistant. Regarding wind generator. The howerboard didn't work well. I saw an interesting alternative. Guy is going to use a broken gas/petroleum generator (one with small combustion engine which generates like 1-2 KW of electricity). He got one pretty cheap as theres an issue with engine. But alternator and electronics seems to be fine. Such setup might work better than howerboard. Good luck with your projects!

[@Klaus-b1u]

Nice project! Looking forward to see the next steps.

[@makoado6010]

"My Parts for Solar System " my first thik was u will build a spaceship.

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

hahahaha would be nice

[@TheKatr2]

I am glad you are from Spain Greetings from Greece

[@arp_catchall]

jumper cables... excellent idea! thanks!

[@thexpto51]

Excellent Work!!! Very good explanation! Thank you!

[@markfarrugia8226]

Excellent presentation. Please give us more

[@alessandrovichi761]

Very interesting project. In italy usually don't mix ac and dc current in the same box but we mount two specify box because in cause of fault, the problem remain in one of this. We assembly an spd protection in ac and dc for protection inverter and ac load in case we have an over voltage. For my expirience I' use two difference mppt if i have two difference input voltage, in your case solar and wind i don't believe have the same voltage. I can't wait to see the finished work, very very congraturation

[@Badge124]

I'm looking forward to this! Thanks for great content.

[@eyeswizard]

Waiting for the rest of the episodes 👋

[@nonsquid]

Are you planning to ground the negative side of your solar panels to ground reference? If so your battery charger may fault on ground fault. I was always concerned regarding lightning strikes to my solar panels being electrically coupled all the other components of my house. I eventually went with an arc bridge type shunt in a sand quench for current protection and thyristor break over for over voltage protection. I also used RF inductor clamp on chokes for reactive pulse protection. If you are building the system from the ground up, consider using metal conduit to help EMP proof your system.

[@mimimi9170]

Also I think it won't be enough if it's aimed to be earth.

[@GP-lg1ry]

Great 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻! Suggestion: for the grounding, you should use at least 3 copper rods stuck in the ground and connected in line or triangle shape. The distance fron each other must be the length of a rod. This is the best way to get close to 0 ohm without doing professional calculations or measurements.

[@mimimi9170]

Oldukça açıklayıcı, teşekkürler 🙏

[@RommudohDev]

10:43 I like you calling W "double V" :)

[@David-ku6dm]

Why you have a banana in your desk ! 😂

[@stephensu4371]

nice, i got my version of off grid, but my one is at my backyard

[@KakoZahwani]

I wanna see some farming videos, from planting to harvesting, I wish you good luck

[@John_Smith__]

One question: did you choose the solar panel output max Voltage and Inverter with top Input DC voltage of 70V because there are limitations on Solar installs/deployment in Spain on electric systems with more then 60V, namely is there a Law/Administrative Rule that requires a Certified Electrician to install systems with more then 60V ? Some countries have that sort of requirements. Just curious to know about that.

[@jenyjek5055]

Nice projct. Howewer, i would strongly reccommend changing the solar input breakers for some especially made for this application. This is due to the fact that you are connecting a high current high voltage DC source, wich loves to create arcs, and regular breakers might not survive. I would also add a dual pole disconnector switch to the panels, just for safety if you want to work on the system. I would also ground the panels and add surge and overvoltage protections on the panel input side and the output side, because panels, due to their big surface area like to create pretty powerful static discharges, which like to destroy the inverters (ask me why i know), and is also a really good measure agains thunders for sensitive electronics. Otherwise, very helpful video, love to see the whole project finished :D Good luck!

[@drsimx3729]

Thanks!

[@drsimx3729]

Hello sir Need a help I want to vary dc volt from 0-320vdc but I don't know how to start(know the risk of high volt ) Plz help

[@ranganatennakoon]

very useful tutorial

[@AKAtheA]

1. cloud anything is future e-waste. Look at Tasmota and buy only things that can be flashed by it, you should have no problem setting it up 2. oversizing the panels is not as dumb as it sounds, you get more power off-peak 3. if you're willing to drop €1.5k+ for a battery, go buy a Pylontech US5000...price is unbeatable even when DIYing and you should be able to find a distributor locally 4. consider adding surge protectors between the panels and inverter. Whine nothing will save you from a direct lightning strike, they will save the inverter from a close one

[@aspendell209]

The amount of power a wire/cable can handle is based on several factors. The main ones are Voltage, max Current, Length of circuit (both the positive and negative leads), and Copper or Aluminum conductor. Charts like you displayed are a huge stumbling block to people starting out in simple system design. Sure you can say a 10 ga wire can handle 30 amps in specific conditions. But if you have a 200' run (like a 100' extension cord) that supports up to 30 amps @ 120Vac with less than 3% loss in voltage (the standard) and you try to put 12Vdc thru that same run it will now only support up to 3 amps. So it will safely handle 3600w @ 120Vac, but only 36 watts at 12V. A 50' extension cord of the same gauge can handle twice the current and a 200' could only handle half. They quit putting current ratings on cables and wires back in the early 70s for this reason. It just makes no sense to people trying to select the proper wire size for their application. I have seen systems with over 50% power losses from the wrong sizing of cables, and that is before charger, inverter and battery losses. So they are losing 50% power on charging and inverting. As you kinda pointed out, the same size/length cable @ 48Vdc can handle 4X the power as it can @24Vdc (while keeping within the 3% losses), and 16X the power of a 12Vdc system.

[@noanyobiseniss7462]

Good timing, I'd like to see a review of that charger and inverter/charger. I was looking at mppt chargers for a couple of panels i picked up for the rv and it looks like there are tons of fake mppt chargers so i have not been able to find a decent one at a good price. I picked up "Newpowa 200 Watt 12 Volt Mono Solar Panel, 2 Pieces 9BB 100W 12V Solar Panels High Efficiency Monocrystalline PV Module RV Marine Boat Off Grid (2 * 100W) " and need to find a charger for the same type battery setup you have here. I'm also looking for an inverter that will handle the surge of the ac units if there is one I can justify, otherwise i'll have to stay on the generator for those. I was trying to think of a way to start the ac units on the generator and then run them off the the batteries but am not sure how to go about that.

[@jaredharvey1511]

You probably want some disconnects in your system. Here in the states if your house is on fire, the fire department will pull the house meter to disconnect the electricity to the building. If you have solar panels, the building code in the states requires a panel disconnect at the same area as the meter. This again allows fire fighters to remove the hazard and remove the probable source of the fire. You probably want these disconnects.

[@orphax1925]

10:00 most mppt controllers ofr solar and wind can be connected to the same battery in parallel 😇

[@emilioemilio1710]

Te dejo like y comentario

[@kevindewinter8235]

All this converting from Ac to Dc and vice versa. Costa a lot. Would it not be better to just keep from the panels everything as much as possible to 12vdc?

[@learm67]

❤

[@jaredharvey1511]

Batteries go bad and need to be replaced. Have you considered making your own lead acid batteries? If you make your own you could remake them every 5 to 6 years and get the battery costs lower. Basically extract the lead, melt it down to make new plates, then with some Epsom salt you have a new set of batteries for another 5 to 6 years.

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

I've never tried that...

[@jaredharvey1511]

@@ELECTRONOOBS I've dreamed about it a couple of times. Lead foil, plastic buckets, you could have an almost endless battery with just a bit of sweet equity. Epsom salt can be safely stored and mixed with water when it needs to be a battery. When you recast the plates there will be lead slag which is not usable. However with "Betts electrolytic process" you can refine the lead. The electrical cost is expensive unless you have excess solar then the refining process is almost free. Ice also dreamed about making the battery so it fits behind the gap on the backside of the solar panel. Basically make the Solar panel a portable generator. Just prop it up in the yard plug things into it and you've got power during disaster.

[@jaredharvey1511]

@@ELECTRONOOBS also with lead acid as you cycle the battery the plates will get a sulfate type of buildup on them. This buildup increases the internal resistance and decreases performance. In cold climates, we notice hard to start conditions during the cold months. A plain no additives aspirin or some Epsom salts can break down this buildup and extend the battery life. If you design a battery, your battery should be limited by either plates cracking or sediment buildup in the bottom of the battery.

[@AlcorSalvador]

@@jaredharvey1511 Heat will be your biggest enemy. So long as you find a way to keep both cool effectively it should be feasible, although heavy.

[@jaredharvey1511]

@@AlcorSalvador in my case keeping the batteries from freezing is a key concern. As well calculating the needed plate area and volume of batter fluid. Then H2 mitigation. All things to keep in mind. Plates can be cast using RTV or similar silicone compound as a mold.

[@shahramahmadzadeh5285]

wow

[@firelion98]

But does your new small home has galvanised square steel bed frame?

[@Indonesia01ian]

Hi do you have any video related to checking our Electronic part? I am a begineer about electrical part My flight controller has a short I want to check what part short

[@emilioemilio1710]

Porfavor.... también en español.

[@ferencszabo3504]

For me 2 x (12V,100A) batteries didn't lasted for 6 months! I have used 40% of the energy from them and yet they got sulfated!

[@korishan]

How much do shipping containers over there cost??? Here in Fl, US a 53Ft container costs around $3-4k USD, delivered. You can get a 40ft container for around $2.5k USD

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

@@korishan the mean is of 1500€ for a 20ft one. But, you need to add tax which is 21% and shipping in my case is around 500# more because the village is 200km away... that's why i want to make my own

[@korishan]

@@ELECTRONOOBS Wow!! High tax! Ooph. yeah, that makes a big difference, plus the shipping costs. I would imagine even here if the destination was beyond a certain distance, they'd start tacking on distance fees. But man, 20Ft costs that much already, that's unfortunate

[@AdamTheBot]

Bro i have request that i wish you will fulfill ❤ . 1. Make a receiver with STM32 2. Make a flight controller with STM32 Both Black and Blue Pill 2.Make a flight controller and receiver combined with Esp32 as it's 32bit and dual core 3. Also make one with Pi Pico 4. Make a transmitter with esp32 that will be controlled from phone . Like i will have a ui in my Android phone ,the data will get transferred to esp32 then it will transmit is using nrf24l01 . Sorry for my bad English ❤ .

[@thomasschmidt9264]

Better don't consider adding a wind turbine to your system. If you have enough space, better convert your money into more solar panels, a lot of panels. There is a reason why commercial wind turbines are that high. The gain of a wind turbine scales with the second power of the diameter and with the third power of the wind speed. Unfortunately close to the ground there is no wind (I mean that kind of wind speed a turbine wants) and the size of the rotor is limited there as well. Building a tower higher than the surrounding buildings and trees is neccessary to get some wind and to get out of turbulences that force the turbine to permanently change direction and speed, which permanently confuses the MPPT of the inverter. Mounting a turbine pole on the roof of a building is also not recommended. If the roof is not designed for that, the pole might crash, together with half of your roof. And if there is some wind - turbines are loud. There is no chance to keep the noise out of your building - bad if you don't want to sleep in the basement. The internet is full of "powerful" turbine designs. Don't believe it. Germans call that a "Wunderwaffe" (eng: wonder weapon). They hoped for it all along World War 2, but it did not come. And there is no such thing as a "Wunderturbine" as well. If you don't live on a high mountain or directly on the sea shore - forget turbines. Solar panels are currently really cheap (a standard panel for less than 100$), so don't invest your time and money into (high maintenance) toy turbines. If you are afraid to generate not enough energy with solar during winter time - build solar fences (best from bifacial panels). In the darker time of the year perpendicular standing panels catch more sunlight and there is no problem with snow. Snow is even better for a solar fence, because of light reflection from the ground.

[@joemwangi5813]

DIY MPPT charger..

[@objection_your_honor]

Your link to the inverter goes 404

[@DheerajSinghal01]

Where is today's video ?

[@ZenithFounder]

can u make display for omnitrix? with lcd displays it would be fire. I m serious, Id kill to buy it made from u

[@ZenithFounder]

i m trying to acquire a real working OG omnitrix replica. Since i like collection it would be huge for me

[@naeemhaq3504]

2nd🤣

[@damensutherland7081]

Aliexpress has good prices for 280 ah lithium batterys not all sellers are legit i ordererd 3 times from sellers with no reviews and i had to get refunded.i bought 280 ah lithium batter from varicore for 230 dollars for 4 cells

[@Service_John]

1st😂

[@Ansh-tp4lz]

do you earn enough from youtube or you also have a another job. just curious

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

I'm a fill time youtuber but I need extra around it such as Patreon, courses and website....

[@Shyamkumar-di5fu]

3rd 😂

[@linuxranch]

Please spend some time scripting your videos. They wander all over the place without a clear message. (I thought you intended to try to help folks new to the field, not CoNfUsE the living he11 out of them!) Starting your video out saying you bought cheap Chinese junk isn't a help! Confusing your message by talking about stuff you aren't going to show doesn't help. You could have easily said "When selecting an inverter, there are inverters that handle just solar panels, or others that handle both solar panels and wind power. Select the one you want to buy based not only on current needs, but with an eye to future expansion.". Your videos waste MY time.

[@AlcorSalvador]

Complaining about Free Content? Sucks to be you. Consider this, are you going to be the one spending time to write out a script? No, no you won't. If you are so concerned about Time, why spend it writing this comment. Why spend it replying to me as well.

[@infofoolygun]

i ve tryed any types of inverters. best is just cheap and effic the dcdc converters, direct to accu and 5 12 or variable voltage. all other stuff is a schnickschnack, so my opinion.

[@infofoolygun]

1200w 36-42v diffirent solarpanels, dcdc to each panel, all parallel. i want make a trafo pwm dcdc converter, to connect all panels serial and use only 1 dcdc converter

[@CesarAnton]

Than you