Myford ML7 Compound Slide Re-Grind & Locking Screw Upgrade.

[@SteveJordan]

facebook.com/steve.jordan.3766952

[@milnermoss6428]

hi Steve, thank you so much for the detailed videos on your ML7. I just recently purchased a ML7 and thoroughly enjoy watching your videos.

[@SteveJordan]

Hi, that's great. Thanks for watching. Regards Steve

[@richardsprojects]

What a bodge , scrape n blue is a much better way , and fit a new gib

[@carllie4848]

Hello from Norway. I always enjoy your videos. Vera good quality of them. Thanks. Carl

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Carl Thanks for watching and for your encouraging comments. Regards Steve.

[@iankynaston-richards5239]

Dear oh dear. You talked about cleaning the slide up after grinding, but then wiped it down with the same rag you used to wipe away the paste. Your hands were likewise covered in grinding paste. Id be very surprised if there was no grit left in those slideways.

[@SteveJordan]

Thank you, Madam.

[@iankynaston-richards5239]

@SteveJordan You're welcome young lady.

[@junglejammer1]

Nice results, Steve and very good information. Cheers

[@lloydbaker7099]

Great demonstration of general Laeth maintenance

[@jameslaurencesmith7537]

steve its the handle with the dial on it to traverse from left to right "tail stock to chuck" "thank you very much for your quick reply...laurence

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Laurence, on my Myford it is held on with a grub screw. A 1/8" Allen key fits mine. If yours is the same the Allen key socket maybe worn? If so you can glue the Allen key in the socket after dipping it in something like loctite 638. There are various ways to get them to unscrew. That is if it's the same as mine? Regards Steve

[@jameslaurencesmith7537]

@@SteveJordan thanks steve ,,its the same as the grub screws that fit the cutting bits to the cutting tool,,,,,,,,,,, , on the theme of excess over hang ,,my ml10 has only 3 1/2" centre height,, x 13" between centers,, and i have a 5"4 jaw independent chuck,, i dont want to overload the main bearings ..could i put an equal mass to the tail end of the head screw there for balancing out the revolving mass...... love your channel i am learning all the time,, regards ,laurence

[@paulbodypumper1]

Nice one Steve as always

[@rogerpetrella5993]

Ordered one of those motors in 35 rpm a couple weeks ago and waiting for it to arrive so I can build one of those power feeders.

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Roger, They are excellent motors and gearbox design. I think you will be very pleased with it. Regards Steve

[@markloving11]

Looks like your cross slide nut is about ready for replacement too, could help but notice the end play in your cross slide whilst adjusting the compound!

[@Steviegtr52]

Sorry Steve but you still have play in there. At beginning of your cutting look at the brass bal on the tool post handle. Every time you cut it moves.

[@KirkyRC]

I love the power traverse! Great idea 😊

[@28gwdavies]

Nice video, I need to do that on mine. I could hear Rosie grumbling when the seagulls were overhead...

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Glyn yes she hates them especially when they swoop down low.

[@rogerpetrella5993]

Wow, a rare glimpse of your head and face!

[@arkadiychernikov]

Thank you for the video Steve. Do you have any video published for your compound power feed?

[@SteveJordan]

Thanks, I think these are the videos...... kzbin.info/www/bejne/d2XCkKGsbZ16fbc kzbin.info/www/bejne/f4DZfoGBdrV8hsk kzbin.info/www/bejne/n4KYhoB6otKYgqc

[@johnlee1659]

Nice video Steve, you have quite a bit of backlash in that cross slide I think you will need a new nut soon.

[@SteveJordan]

Thanks, yes I was going to sort that next. Regards Steve

[@RockingJOffroad]

I need to do this to the cross slide on my 10” Logan lathe, the cross slide gets tighter as it progresses across the saddle towards the back.

[@griplove]

Great, concise video on the lapping process. Thank you for sharing. Somewhat unrelated I’m having trouble adjusting my saddle on my Chinese mini lathe. I believe it’s a siege S3? Do you have any advice, or videos available to help me learn a better way to adjust the saddle retainers?

[@SteveJordan]

I have done videos on this with the Mini lathe. One of the best things you can do is to take the saddle plates off, remove the grub screws and put the plates back on with shim instead of the grub screws, This allows tightening of the plates fully without bending them. Obviously it is experimental at first, to find the required thickness of the shim to be used, between the saddle plate and the underside of the saddle.

[@griplove]

Steve Jordan thank you. I will search your archives and try the shims. I’m definitely bending them as they show evidence of minor damage on the inside corners.

[@mitchlees9622]

Steve, I am currently modifying my Clarke mini lathe in accordance with your other posts. I have dispensed with the compound slide and 4-way tool post, and am making new tool post block. However I am not sure which quick change tool post to buy - I would like to be able to use the12mm index tool holders you recommended from China. You mention at the start of this video that you had removed the (Anaris??) tool post from your Myford - is this the same make of tool post you use on the modified mini lathe? As a novice I would be most grateful for advice. Thanks for a really great series of educational videos.

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Mitch, On the Modified Chinese Mini Lathe I use the Dixon type Quick-Change tool-post. I do have one for the Myford lathe as well and if you buy one it will be marketed as for either of those lathes. It is exactly the same sized one and will take 12mm tools. I use a home made block as well rather than the compound slide, which is a poor design on the mini lathe. I am currently looking at whether the small Aloris type toolpost can be used on a block for the mini lathe, from Banggood, but I'm only doing it for an option for other people, as I have the quickchange currently set with many tools on mine and there is no real advantage for me to buy and change over to the Aloris type for this lathe now. Regards Steve

[@SteveJordan]

But having said that I do prefer the Aloris type toolposts from China. They are much more consistent in quality and a better toolpost altogether than the quickchange, plus they are considerably cheaper to buy. If I had the choice when I bought my lathe I would have bought the Aloris type, but I'm not sure at this stage whether it can be modified to fit the compound slide as well....which obliviously the Dixon type can. The Dixon can be used on a block but also on the compound slide giving all round greater versatility.

[@mitchlees9622]

Steve Jordan (

[@mitchlees9622]

Steve Jordan Thank you for the reply. I will search Bangood today and try and find a suitable Aloris tool post. As ex-air crew, I have always been most grateful to aircraft engineers for obvious reasons! Best wishes Mitch

[@mitchlees9622]

Steve, sorry to take your time, but there are lots of tool posts on the Bangood site and I am not sure which is the Aloris type, and which is the one you have on your mini lathe. As we are not sure whether the Aloris type will fit the mini lathe, maybe I should buy one like yours, unless your examination of the Aloris type is due to reach a conclusion soon? Sorry to ask but could you give me links to the 2 options? Thank you Mitch

[@nikond90ful1]

Thanks for the video Steve.

[@RaptorMachineToolCo]

Nice job Steve!

[@satxsatxsatx]

disappointed you didn't use one of your electronic microscopes to inspect before and after

[@johanandersson9287]

-Thanks Steve for yet another good "how-to"! One thing I wonder, though: -Now, when fitting the 2nd compound slide, doesn't that mean that you also ground the crossfeed dovetail in a bit, thus compromising the fit of your original compound? Guess the CI dovetail takes more of the grinding than the steel gib, also? Just my 2 cents of wondering. Cheers, and keep up the good work! DIYSwede.

[@jorgescordamaglia1654]

It appears that you're going to need a new nut, screw or both, in your cross slide. Lots of free play. Regards

[@SteveJordan]

I have adjusted it now it needed tightening on the leadscrew handle

[@bruceplumisto]

Mine has a brass Gib, should I get steel ones?

[@SteveJordan]

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[@SteveJordan]

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[@SteveJordan]

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[@sylasaaron8775]

pro tip : you can watch movies on flixzone. Been using them for watching a lot of movies lately.

[@cristianpedro5275]

@Sylas Aaron Definitely, been using Flixzone for years myself :D

[@tylermartin799]

@Sylas Aaron Yup, I have been using Flixzone for since december myself =)

[@Cre8Mess]

Hi Steve, could your method of "regrinding" the compound slide be applied to the main bed? There is a looser bit on my ml7 near the chuck, which obviously sticks nearer the tail stock. Dismantling and sending away for a regrind seems excessive.

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Bill, Yes it can be done the same. My brother did it to my ML7 before he gave the lathe to me. My lathe is fine now but could do with just a little more of the same. Obviously it takes a bit more work, but the results are well worth it. I will be looking at mine again soon, to finish off what my brother started, as I can just feel a bit of difference still.

[@Cre8Mess]

@@SteveJordan how would you tell which side of the lathe bed is worn to add the paste to the right part? I would have thought ot mattered? If it were on the front edge, you'd only want to apply the paste on the front edge so as to even out the wear. I guess the top slide is a little simpler to "regrind" using your method. Could you share any tips? I'm not a machinist at all, just a willing enthusiast.

[@eddyfontaineyoutu100]

Thanks for the video Steve ! What is the nominal RPM of your gearbox motor ? 35 or 60 RPM ?

[@SteveJordan]

I have both. They both produce very good finishes at those RPM's

[@ZeLemes]

Perfector... muito bom trabalho.

[@jameslaurencesmith7537]

o trabajo bien hecho pero soy ingles.

[@allengentz7572]

Hi Steve, The same procedure would apply to the bed and cross slide?

[@SteveJordan]

Hi I would do the same for the cross slide and bed. I think my brother did the bed on mine using the same type of method before he gave the lathe to me.

[@patrickdarcy3863]

Just machine the dove tails, job done.

[@robertpartsmade5832]

Cannot think of a worse thing to do ..... grinding paste in cast iron slide ways !! That poor old Myford !!! Scrape it !!!!( not scrap it ) As for your cross slide , looks about 1/8” back lash !!! Sorry not wanting rain on your parade but people will take this as the correct way to do machine repairs !!! Regards Robert Partsmade

[@SteveJordan]

It worked brilliantly. Very close inspection after cleaning doesnt reveal any residue. Backlash sorted now. All good to go. Works perfectly now. It's a great fix. I did my other one the same years ago and it's still brilliant with no problems whatsoever.

[@acalciu]

Steve, you did a questionable job of cleaning out the grinding paste with the dirty rag and oil. You should have uses Kerosene (I think you, Brits, call it paraffin) to clean the part before reassembly and you should have used a clean rag that would be discarded after contaminating it with grinding paste.

[@metalmanglingmariner]

Whenever I am cleaning after a messy job I swill all the crud out with carburettor cleaner in an aerosol.

[@steph2211]

Dam Steve that was nice! What type of oil, you are using on your lathes.

[@SteveJordan]

I use ISO 32 Hydraulic oil on the bearings. On the spindle nose thread I use thick engine oil...this prevents the chuck from jamming...Regards Steve

[@stefandelfosse5318]

you've made it worse all your slide moves when the chisel goes into the workpiece!

[@SteveJordan]

Not on the finished slide. It is solid.