N46 Valve Timing

Fitting the Eccentric Shaft Assembly to the N46 Cylinder Head and installing the Intake and Exhaust Adjusting Units.

[@Anton3051]

You are very welcome, it is a pleasure to help even from half way around the world. The heaters for the o2 will not cause misfiring. If you have INPA pull up the smooth running values and see which cylinder is acting up, Moree the value and let me know. Great Job!

[@seasonedtoker]

Anton! I have an N46B20 that I have rebuilt, did the valve stem seals, piston rings etc. The car drives fine and doesn't consume much oil (maybe a little over 1L per 10.000 km - before that it consumed 1L between full tanks!). That was my first problem. The second problem was the car constantly was throwing cat efficiency codes, precats dynamically too slow, control probes switched or aged. At one point I even got misfire codes, I know exactly when that happened but no actual misfires could be felt (only partial load). So I replaced the cats and all four probes while I was rebuilding the whole engine. The problems with emissions remain and I am starting to narrow it down to valvetronic. I can feel the car is shaky a bit on the idle, but otherwise it drives and pulls okay, only the fuel economy has been high lately. My rough run menu shows cyl4 at app 1.80-2.70 positive (while other 3 are all sitting perfectly at -0.xx). If I delete adaptations and relearn the valvetronic, then start the engine again, the cyl4 jumps to around 4, but is soon equalized down to 1.80-2.70. If I disconnect the VVT sensor and force the car to go maximum lift, all the rough run vales are 0 or less. Also, at some point when I am gradually accelerating (around 2500 rpm) I can hear something ticking as if it was right behind the firewall. This ticking is actually only noticeable when accelerating by gradually adding gas. If I floor it the tick is not there anymore. It is a faint and muffled "tickticktick", not like the notorious N52 lifter tick. I am suspecting it is the HVA/rocker arm or the torsion spring on the cyl4. I also tried switching coils, injectors and plugs with no luck. In worst case scenario probably the shaft and the intermediate levers are shot too? Altought it is practially full of emission efficiency problems the car passes TI without any problem.

[@Anton3051]

I was thinking for a moment there your #4 injector was delivering too much fuel at idle, but you said you switched without luck. I remember once we had a similar problem on same engine, it was discovered that the signal wire to injector 4 was mixed with injector 3, they are very close together. You could have problems with the hydraulic lifter, the springs or the levers as well, whatever it is it's confined to #4. Did you reseat the valves on the head? I'm not too sure what effect removing the VVT Sensor connector would have on the engine and it's values. Never done that before. Once you are out of idle phase, the values will tend towards zero, so it's low speed related. I'll think about it and come back to you. The ticking sound could also be an exhaust leak at the manifold. Worth checking.

[@honzaj995]

Hi Anton, I have 2006 N46 and I have my timing chain set + oil pump chain set replaced by carmechanic and I did rest of the job. Replaced eccentric shaft actuator + sensor, valvecover gasket, oil pan gasket, oil cooler gasket, water pump + thermostat. Before this I often had codes and limp mode due broken eccentric shaft sensor (a lot of oil there) and I found the actuator was broken and stuck in position so I replaced both. I also replaced both vanos solenoids, cam sensors, MAF sensor, cleaned and resetted the throttle body, did engine flush twice. First day the car was ok, no codes, smooth start and run. After one day it had very bad start (sounded like bad starter but it started with very very low RPM and kept crank after 1-2 sec it was ok) and also got engine light in few minutes. ISTA showed me 2A88 and 2C45 (labdas are 1y old and ok in ISTA) but car rides fine and consuption is also much better. My question is where to start? Bad timing by carmechanic was my first thought. Can I check it in ISTA/INPA? Thanks for any help!

[@Anton3051]

2C45 is an oxygen sensor code it will not cause the problems you are now experiencing. The 2A88 will, it suggest a cam shaft crank shaft correlation problem. Could be the exhaust adjustment unit, the solenoid, the camshaft, the basic timing. To start you may want to recheck that the static timing is correct. Timing pin in the hole under the starter. cam shafts locked on the head. Camshaft sensor wheels locked at the front. I cannot say for certain if ISTA/INPA can tell you if your timing is off, perhaps but I have never had to do that. Check the basics again first.

[@honzaj995]

@@Anton3051 Thanks for reply. This morning I had very very rough start and the engine shutted down for three times after dropping rpms below 500 in few secs after start, 4th time i held the rpms at to 2k and then it lasted. Then engine ran very smooth, no limp mode, no engine light, good consuption. In INPA I found the adaption of output cam 57,8 (shall be between 58 to 80) and input cam 109,5 (115-137). Could this problem be caused by bad adaptations or bad software? Previous owner bought "chiptuning" to increase kW and nm and I did not erase the old adaptions after repairs, only resetted throttle body and let VVT be taught (ignition ON for 10s). Thanks for any advice before taking valve cover off.

[@honzaj995]

@@Anton3051 BTW if it was bad timing, the power and torque shall be reduced and problems would last even with hot engine, right? Or even limp mode?

[@Anton3051]

@@honzaj995 values look good you should 'clear and reset adaptations after a repair like that.

[@Anton3051]

@@honzaj995 did you do head job also? the n42/ n46 is notorious for cold engine starts and vibrations along with misfired. Once the basics check out fine you may need to turn your attention to ignition/injection for a cold engine. Also make sure the coolant temperature sensor is reading the temp accurately. Monitor through your diagnostic machine but check basics first.

[@Cobra427Veight]

Thanks for all your help , Cheers Mate .

[@sv_endless6340]

Where did you get the timing tool kit

[@Anton3051]

BAUM Tools or you can find it online

[@alejandromorales5049]

No muestras como van las levas de los árboles del pistón 1

[@Anton3051]

Si', lo hice, las levas están configuradas en el pistón No 1. Está asegurado por la herramienta de leva. Míralo de nuevo. Siento haber tardado tanto, tuve que traducir.

[@ricknelson1016]

Hi Anthony. I own a 2004 E46 318i sedan N46B20AA Auto with 175000 klms on the clock. I've tried extracting info from some dealers around Sydney but all I get is "bring it in and we'll have a look" .... $$$$$$ I have a few questions about the vanos units on the end of the camshafts and the vanos solenoid "O"rings. Due to the infamous DIESEL RATTLE- missfire etc, I found I had a broken camchain guide. I replaced the cam chain guides and chain and set the timing with the correct tools, TDC, locked flywheel, curved ends of camshafts facing up etc etc. 2 rotations of the crank, re-installed the alignment tools and it was all perfect, pins went into the holes quite easily. No problems there . Degreased vanos solenoids and bench tested, resistance OK and 9 volt battery test to ensure they were fine, all went well and checked out fine, also installed new "O" rings (inner & outer), Installed new cam angle sensors, The problem is that I keep getting 3 Codes, 1. 2B62 CDKPH - camshaft sensor inlet Position of phase flanks or installation position outside tolerance 2. 2B63 CDKPH2 - camshaft sensor outlet Position of phase flanks or installation position outside tolerance 3. 2B66 CDKPHM - Master camshaft sensor No Master camshaft exists I have re-done the timing 3 times now and have the same results. One thing I have noticed is that when I rotate the crankshaft back and forth via the 22mm bolt, the vanos units on the inlet and outlet camshafts move a couple of mm before the camshaft itself moves. Question 1 ... Should there be any movement there at all or should the camshafts rotate the instant the chain rotates the vanos units ??? Question 2 ... If oil by-passes the small green "O"ring on the vanos solenoids, will I be loosing pressure to the vanos units and causing incorrect functionality ie. retardment and advancement etc which maybe throwing the "out of tolerence" codes ??? When I disconnect my Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor NONE of these codes appear and the engine seems to run fine, same thing when I disconnect the inlet vanos solenoid. When I accelerate slowly as if I'm in traffic the codes trip straight away but if I accelerate quickly they don't, until I slow down and have to feather the throttle then they'll trip again. The engine has been flushed and new BMW oil and filter installed before the timing chain kit installation. Any ideas would be such a help, I'm going crazy ... Thanks

[@Anton3051]

Rick Nelson . I will look into your case in the morning and find a solution for you.

[@dirtybeatzuk3292]

Can you guys help? cannot find the Crank locking pin hole in block to set TDC, should be near starter motor but cannot see it, no hole or rubber bung, inlet manifold is off so nothing obstructing, many thanks.

[@Anton3051]

Rick it is located under the starter, sometimes it's difficult to see or feel the plug or hole but it is there. I would like to send you a pdf which should assist you. Kindly send me your email.

[@Anton3051]

There may be an issue with the procedure, you must follow it exactly and in the correct order. Very important are the tool which must be of good quality. I have seen the good, the bad and the ugly. Of great importance is the procedure following the securing of the adjustment unit sensor wheels or gears of you will to the blue timing bar. After securing the bar's pins to the sensor gear you should then tension the chain by way of the chain tension tool. However it only required a torque of .06nm. If it is not done your chain will be on the slack side which will affect the final position of the sensor gear and this the adjusters. Use the smallest torque wrench you can find to get it right. You do not have leaking vanos seals. At rest the intake cam is in end position, meaning it is retarded. During engine start the exhaust is held in the advance position by a spring. Yes they are both depending on oil to move them into required positions, so once you have changed the seals and the bearing at the front end of the cams are not grooved from the piston rings at the shaft ends, then you should be OK. Go over the procedure again. I would like to send a pdf with the detailed procedure. However I need an email. When you unplug the eccentric shaft sensor and the vanos intake the engine is running in emergency mode.

[@ricknelson1016]

Hi Anthony, I will try again, the chain has correct tension, no slack. What do you mean by "front end of the cams are not grooved from the piston rings at the shaft ends" ?? Is it OK to for the vanos units to be slack on the cam shafts ?? I have slack with vanos units just like this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/hnXHco1viJ2agpo but my chain is tight. Thank you for your time. [e-mail]

[@ahmedza9303]

new vanos units?

[@dhalsim-1]

Hi, I'm getting various different quotes on a timing chain and tensioner replacement, can u tell me roughly how much it should cost? thanks

[@selmirjasarevic9305]

Hallo Sir, I have 2004 318i with n46. My car wont start it just crank but dont start. I checked spark and fuel all is there. I was at BMW and guy told me it must be chain jumped. He assume timing is off and thats why car dont have compression. Does that mean that my valves are also damaged or is it posible only timing is off?

[@Anton3051]

Give me a few minutes and I will get back to you. One question, you said you have no compression, did you check it with a gauge?

[@Anton3051]

Can you tell me if you have compression and if you used a gauge to check it,

[@selmirjasarevic9305]

@@Anton3051 Sorry sir for late answer. No I didnt. I will do it tomorow.

[@selmirjasarevic9305]

So I changed timing chain today and car runs fine now.

[@Anton3051]

Very good news, that's what it's all about.

[@davidandrade4206]

Hi, very nice video. What is the function of The chain tensionar tool 5:08 ?? Why we have to adjust first this tool and then remove it and put the original screw 6:54 ?? Thank you in advance for your kind of response.

[@Anton3051]

The chain Tension Tool is to load the timing chain, as you tighten the tool to 0.5nm the chain is pulled tighter. As you can imagine without that tension the chain is likely to jump a tooth or more and create problems, so you want all of the slack from the chain on the tension side. What you call the original screw is actually the Timing Chain Tensioner which is standard fit for the engine, it is hydraulic so it can keep the chain adjusted to its optimum. Since you cannot manually adjust that tensioner when you assemble the timing you must then use the Chain Tension Tool. After tightening the adjustment units, and turning the engine a couple of times the tools are removed and the Chain Tensioner installed finally. Hope I answered your question. Will appreciate if you subscribe. Thank You.

[@wmclare]

you only tightened the vanos bolts the first 90 degrees and not the 2nd 90 degrees.

[@tyrensimeon5925]

I have a e46 M sport. Coils apparently are good. N42B20A engine. Sounds like timing is out. 148kms on clock. Mechanics arent sure what it is so not sure if its worth while fixing, cost etc. In your experience, what would it be i could upload a engine video with engine running perhaps.

[@tyrensimeon5925]

A little white cream sludge on oil stick. Apparently correct oils have been used, vanos etc. Temperature of engine is good.

[@Anton3051]

send the video so I can see and hear

[@Cobra427Veight]

Hi Anton , when re fitting cam sprockets , can they go any position ?, i have the jigs and understand it all, but need to check finer points , is there any marks on cam to indicate that they are not 180 degrees out or just check that number 4 valves are on the "rock", and one more thing not mentioned in any video , do the New bolts get oiled threads and under flange head , which makes a lot of difference or thread locker 242 etc , I would also think the sprocket faces would have to be clean and oil free . and when refitting the Valvetronic motor do i just wind the worm back in until motor seats on housing ? Cheers for your help .

[@Anton3051]

Cams can go at any point. No timing marks just make sure you put intake unit on intake shaft and exhaust unit on exhaust shaft. The important part are the sensor wheels attached to both cam units. With the cams locked at TDC on cylinder #1 and the timing pin is inserted in the flywheel in the correct hole all that is left to do is mount the blue bar to lock the sensor wheel at the front. Tighten the tension tool at the exhaust side of the engine to 0.5nm, this will tension the chain. The bolts holding the cams must be hand right at this point so the tensioner can do its job. Once you are done with that, torque the bolts to 20nm and then to an angle torque of 90° twice for each bolt. That's it.

[@Anton3051]

No thread locker please. very difficult to get valves to rock on this engine. #1 is discovered by placing the tool to the back of the cams. The rounded portion of the cam should face upwards, if the flat side is up turn again. About the motor just insert it and turn the worm gear by hand until it seats against the bracket. Tighten to 10nm. Make sure the eccentric shaft is in the no load position you can use a19mm open wrench at the back of the shaft to achieve this. Good luck and let me know when you start the engine.

[@Cobra427Veight]

Hi Anton , I have got the car going , it started first pop , idles at 750-800rpm drive smoothly , i am not sure if it has all the power it should around 2-3000 ? wants to rev to 6500 ,as i never drove it before " selling it " and all my other cars have a lot bigger engines ,I have no idea of good or bad , when you wrote "eccentric shaft is in the no load position " what is the no load position :-) , i put the " rear "spring back on and wound the valvetronic motor back in on worm until it seated and did the nuts up . also what is the difference in a N-42 to N-46 is it just the redesigned cam chain guides and hydraulic tensioner . Cheers .

[@Anton3051]

No load position is when there is no tension on the spring at the end of the shaft. Tension is when the spring is facing the intake side, no tension when the spring is at the exhaust side. The engines are small capacity and not turbo or super charged making them a bit lazy compared to your muscle engines or one that is blown. If you want to extract more power use the gears in manual mode to extract maximum power through the RPM range. You will feel a difference. I am sure the job was well done. Usually first turn of the key is what I expect.

[@Cobra427Veight]

Hi Anton , I only just got my parts , does it matter if the back face of cam sprocket to cam has oil on it or should it be dry ? so you don't use anti seize on bolts ? just dry ? also the new seal for crank do you add sealant to the two grooves ? or can you let me know what you do ? , just want to do this once , also the PTFE seal i think these are initially dry internally , and finally could you please let me know the torque setting for cam bolts and the crank hub bolt . I have made a crank hub tool to hold it for torquing . Also noticed the Genuine BMW top chain guide has a little tension to get second bolt in ? is this normal ? . Thanks for your help .

[@Anton3051]

No oil behind the cam unit to cam. No anti seize on bolts for the Cam. No sealant to the grooves of the crank seal. PTFE must be absolutely dry, as well as the crank area where it sits. Cam bolt torque 20nm joining torque then 90 degrees twice for each bolt. It is advised to use new bolts here. Crank hub bolt 300nm, again it is advised to use a new bolt. The upper chain guide ( way to the top by the cam units) should go on first without the chain so there should be no bolting issue. The chain is then pulled up and placed over the guide before installing the intake unit.

[@Valden23]

@ 6:08 Hi Anton. With these bolts for the camshaft timing, it seems you've torqued (probably to 20Nm) then tightened each bolt through 90 degrees. The tech manual calls for 180 degrees. Is there a reason you prefer to tighten only 90 degrees? Thanks. Also, with the camshaft carrier bracket removal tool set, there's a tool that looks like a stirrup with a pin attached on a chain. Do you know what this tool is used for and at what stage in the removal process? Thanks.

[@Anton3051]

90 ° twice is 180°. The bolts are tightened twice at 90°.

[@Anton3051]

Used for dismantling the levers and springs. If they are not damaged in any way, leave it alone.

[@Valden23]

Anton3051 Yep, 90 degrees plus 90 degrees = 180 degrees. So, unless I'm mistaken, what I'm seeing you do is: - install locking tools, camshaft adjustment unit bolts (snugged up only) and timing chain pre-tensioning tool (to 0.6Nm) - take each camshaft adjustment unit bolt up to 20Nm, then add 90 degrees of tightening - remove chain pretensioning tool and install the real chain tensioner - remove camshaft locking tools - rotate crank two revolutions, to put cams through one revolution - reinstall cam locking tools, in preparation for; - the second 90 degrees of tightening of each camshaft timing actuator mounting bolt ?? (though we do not see this last step in the video) Is that about right? Or is it OK to simply do two 90 degree tightens on each camshaft adjustment unit bolt, without rotating the engine between each one? You've got me wondering! :-) Thanks.

[@rashmikaroopnarian5201]

Hi Anton I have a bmw 2007 E90 320i n46 I went to the shop and when I came out the car refused to start it cranks but won't start I got some1 to check they said it's the vvt motor seized so I replaced it but it's still doing the same thing cranking but not starting could the timing be out or are the valves bent?

[@Anton3051]

Cannot be diagnosed by guess. You need to take your car to a proper BMW specialist who would be more than capable of diagnosing your problem. You have already spent good money on bad diagnosis. Put an end to it before you find yourself in a bottomless pit.

[@rashmikaroopnarian5201]

@@Anton3051 thank you will do so.

[@francoisswanepoel9722]

Hi Anthony My eccentric shaft sensor failed, and now I'm having a nock sound, i have changed the sensor yesterday but I'm still having the nock, i saw that my chain guide broke on the top and have shavings in my oil filter. 😔

[@Anton3051]

you will have to first of all re do the timing along with a new top chain guide. Remove the oil filter and discard, shavings in the oil filter means that the filter most probably did its job by preventing shavings entering the lubrication passages. However, it could also mean that the filter due to the shavings prevented oil flowing to the main bearings and the camshafts. Can you identify the area of the knock? The broken chain guide would have caused excess slack on the chain which the chain tensioner would have attempted to correct but remember the adjustment of the tensioner is not infinite. Carefully re do the timing to make sure all the slack on the chain is gone and re start the engine. At the same time while the valve cover is off, take a look at the cam journals where it is possible to see and look for any shavings on the journals of exhaust or intake. Shavings there would indicate damaged cams and journals. We once had a similar problem but the main bearings and the crankshaft was good and undamaged. Also drain the oil out of the oil pan and look carefully for shavings as well. Here is something you could try, it is out of the normal practice so do not engage it for too long. If you are sure there is oil in the engine, clean oil, remove the oil filter completely along with the cover. Stand over the oil filter housing so you can observe it and have some one start the engine briefly. Observe the oil as it fills the housing (may make a mess). If it does you do not have a problem with the oil pump or debris blocking the screen on the oil pick up tube. That is good news if it is the case. Then after checking that there is no damage to cams and journals, replace the filter (new) and the oil filter cover and crank the engine to see if oil is present in the oil lube line on the exhaust and intake cams. If there is oil on the head, replace the valve cover and start the engine. If you are still knocking, well you may have to go further into the engine.

[@francoisswanepoel9722]

@@Anton3051 thanks alot for the advice I will have a good look before driving the car again

[@rasheedcampbell2973]

I recently did the cam timing for this engine I am trying to figure out where I went wrong. The car starts up but runs rough. I am not getting any codes. But I noticed that the valve tonic motor after a while keeps shattering. This is the second valve tronic motor I am replacing. Do you have any idea what went wrong?

[@jongunnaralfsen4275]

Hi, I have a 2004 E46 316i N46B18A. I am replacing both VANOS and are about to install them. My question is what momentum (Nm) you use when fasten the bolts on the VANOS and the tightener of the chain? Thanks for answers! Jon G.

[@Anton3051]

The Vanos adjustment unit bolts are first tightened to 20nm then they must be angle tightened to 90 degrees in two stages. (20nm. x 90 + 90) The Chain Tensioner is torqued to 50nm.

[@jongunnaralfsen4275]

Thank you for the fast answer

[@alexgibson7369]

Thanks for this video. How tight should the timing chain be once all is done? I set the pretension to 0.6nm and set timing correctly. When I rotate the engine from the crankshaft there seems to be a really tight spot at one point just before TDC. It gets harder to rotate and the chain between the cam sprockets is extremely tight. Is this a sign of a warn/stretched chain that should be replaced?

[@Anton3051]

I do not think so, never came across a stretched or defective chain in all my repairs. Just 'go back and check everything pretension the chain to 0.5nm with cam units bolts hand tight. Make sure as well that you have the cams locked at the rear, If this is all done then you should be OK. Let me know the outcome.

[@Anton3051]

Also place all of the slack from the chain to the tensioner side, meaning you must pull up on the chain when installing the intake unit to remove all slack between the intake unit and the crankshaft sprocket.

[@alexgibson7369]

@@Anton3051 Thanks for the quick response. I've redone it all about half a dozen times now and it's still really tight.. What seems to be happening is when I remove the exhaust cam locking tool from the back after setting timing, the exhaust cam turns slightly away from the inlet cam, which is what is causing the chain to become really tight between the cams. The flywheel is locked with cylinder 1 at TDC but the exhaust cam doesn't sit perfectly flat, I have to turn it with a spanner slightly to fit the locking tool.. is that normal? I redid valve stem seals so the cams did come out so it's possible I've not put things back correctly. Any ideas?

[@Anton3051]

@@alexgibson7369 It is normal to use a spanner or similar to move the cams into position. The problem could be the quality of the tool used to lock the cams. I have seen some tools with excessive clearance at the point where the cam is held, this allows for movement away from the intended point. If you have the cams set correctly they should not move when the tool is put in place. Further there should be no clearance on the exhaust side between the cam fixing tool and the head surface. On the intake side between the tool and the head surface. The tools should sit flat. Further if the both tools are not secured to the head in the centre they will tend to lift. Check again and let me know.

[@alexgibson7369]

@@Anton3051 I think the tools are ok, there doesn't appear to be excessive clearance. They sit flat and were screwed down to the head. I've noticed that the exhaust valves on cylinder 2 are slightly open when cams are locked, which is why this cam wants to rotate backwards when the tools are removed, resulting in tightening of the chain. Should any valves be compressed at all while in TDC? I've possibly done something wrong when reinstalling the cams or maybe this is all normal and I'm just being paranoid about the chain being too tight?

[@Cobra427Veight]

Do you have to remove the sump ? i have a 318 Ti N42 to do the timing chain .

[@Anton3051]

sorry for the late reply was unwell. No the sump stays in place. But if you are replacing the chain you will have to remove the front bolt and pulley.

[@gavinbern8443]

@@Anton3051 hi can you tell me how i do the timing on this as this is as far as ive got ? ive got the timing kit and ive replaced the chain and guide please help me my email is [e-mail] many thanks

[@emrebjk8034]

Hi, in what position should the Valvetronic be in when tightening the camgears and the the flywheel is locked in TDC? thanks

[@Anton3051]

The position of the valvetronic is not important at this time. The critical is to make sure both cams are locked with the cam locking tools before tightening the cam bolts and the position of the sensing wheel on the adjusting units are locked in place with the blue bar tool. The valvetronic eccentric shaft should then be returned to the minimum lift position by turning the hex at the end of the shaft after the cam bolts are complete.

[@emrebjk8034]

thanks for reply, i think my timing is 2-3 degrees of. when i put the pin in for the flywheel lock at TDC i can still move the crank by 2-3 degrees. i think it shouldnt do that, do you know the dimension of the hole for TDC? thanks

[@Anton3051]

The timing must be spot on. On the flywheel there is a larger hole before TDC, if you put the pin in that hole you will observe rocking back and forth on crank pulley bolt it means you are not on TDC. Further if you should time the engine in that hole you will notice as soon as you start turning the engine in direction (clockwise), the timing chain will show slack at the Intake Cam Unit. That is not good. You must feel around, its kind of difficult, for the TDC hole by inserting and pushing on the pin and at the same time turning the crank bolt with a ratchet in small increments until the pin slips in. It is a one man job so you must make yourself flexible.

[@emrebjk8034]

ive tried redoing everything with an dial gauge on piston 1. everything was spot on BUT it still causes me issues after starting the engine. ive removed the valve cover again and when im turning it to TDC the inlet camshaft is not in right position, could the camshaft sprocket be faulty? when i move the crank by hand back and forth the sensor plate has a play 2-3 mm.

[@Anton3051]

@@emrebjk8034 are you using the blue bar to lock the sensing wheels on the adjusting units?

[@cden1780]

i dont have the wrench for the chain tensioner is that necessary? thanks

[@Anton3051]

use an 8mm socket and ratchet and just take up the slack on the chain.

[@cden1780]

@@Anton3051 thanks for your answer i will do it like that. do i need to do the balancing shaft? because in the TiS they are working also with the balancingshaft. and how is the crankshaft sprocket attached ? thanks

[@Anton3051]

You lost me there, what is the balancing shaft?

[@cden1780]

At the bottom of the engine there are balancing shafts . You see it in the manual

[@cden1780]

www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e46-318ti-com/repair-manuals/11-engine/11-31-camshaft/41iXZ4y

[@medalex]

mentore tu esti ma ?:)))))))))))))

[@sluttyfuck19]

What is this at 5:08 ?

[@Zero4Infinitives]

The chain tensionar tool.

[@cps93329]

pink panther

[@Andy-nt5jg]

Wrong VANOS torque