N64Digital Installation Guide! Get the best analog and digital video from your N64!!

The N64 turns 25 this week, and what better way to celebrate than to install the N64Digital! This mod gives you the highest quality analog and digital video from your N64, and on this episode of Fix it Friday we walk you through the whole process.
EDIT: If you're doing the clock mod, also make sure that you close jumper JP1 on the flex cable! I apologize that I did not film this step during installation.
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Install docs: www.pixelfx.co/content/N64_in...
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[@rphntw1n]

The only channel that understands how annoying multimeter beeps in a video are. Thank you!

[@AngelaMTF]

I can attest to the quality of work George does. I got my NES back yesterday that was RGB modded. My mind was BLOWN! Thank you, George.

[@LIRetroGaming]

Awesome! I’m so glad it got there quickly. Enjoy it!

[@dirtpipedan]

His soldering is legit. Dude definitely knows what he's doing, and is great at explaining it.

[@maxrichards5925]

I’ve been wanting one of these kits for about a month now. If I’m ever able to get one, this seems like a great guide.

[@DoctorDorito]

Got mine in on Wednesday and it was installed about an hour after I got it. I could not wait

[@LIRetroGaming]

I did the exact same thing! I was looking forward to this for a long time

[@emmettturner9452]

Yep. :) I actually couldn’t get one for myself but a local left work Wednesday and rushed his over to me for an install. Also did an UltraHDMI HW2 for him the same night. Wasn’t disappointed that I didn’t get to play around with it much since we got another in the mail Wednesday for a different client. Finished that one up this morning and will be giving it one heck of a burn in test so I can familiarize myself. ...oh yeah: There are 50 more en route for the group buy. ;)

[@giuseppelavecchia775]

Hai fatto un lavoro ECCEZZIONALE!,l'N64 e' una console leggendaria,merita L'HDMI,bravo

[@coleeau]

For the 10 screws on the heatsink for this type of heatsink, you don't actually need to unscrew them, it allows you to remove the small metal heatsinks directly on the chips at the same time

[@dustywhistles6127]

great work George!

[@RetroSho]

George is an awesome dude who has a couple of jobs for me already. I totally vouch for him and can't wait til my own N64Digital modded console comes back from him. 😀

[@More_Row]

Looks great, thanks for sharing.

[@emmettturner9452]

Nice job! You don’t have to remove most of those internal screws since you can remove all the heat sink and EMI shielding all at once. You risk lifting the RAM if you don’t lift from the back but that’s easy to avoid once you know. I just did a couple N64Digitals and several hundred UltraHDMI installs (if not 1k+) so I’ve been doing it a lot. :) Glad to see people are no longer telling us that we have to remove the Jumper or Expansion Pak first. I’ve been sharing that technique of removing it with the top shell for years now! Most N64RGB/UltraHDMI videos explicitly tell you to remove it first and most N64Digital videos mention the shortcut. The install guide says not to connect the analog flex for initial testing. Not sure why. Perhaps a misaligned connector can cause issues so there’s no reason to introduce that potential when doing initial testing (test base functionality first). I *did* have an issue but after testing with multiple N64Digital kits and making a 3AM trip to the storage unit for a spare controller, we found it was an incompatibility with the HoriPad Mini 64. Doh! At least it wasn’t something I did wrong. :) I was up past 5AM dealing with other issues, like the N64Digital not supporting my cables and my test monitor not supporting 240p from the HD Retrovision or custom YPbPr/RGsB cables. On that note, I had to test my custom cables with UltraHDMI HW2 to isolate the issue to that monitor’s 240p support. Luckily I was doing one of that that night too. Sooo... whatever happened to N64Digital supporting YPbPr?! It has an option to switch analog output even though you can’t change it from “RGB” and I’m only now hearing that the feature may not be ready. Who knew? Not me... I had built and tested a bunch of YPbPr/RGsB cables in anticipation (initially ordered 100 cables and 50 plugs). Wish there had been some mention of this on PixelFX’s Twitter or website or maybe a note in the menu. Not sure why they didn’t just hide the analog output option entirely until the feature is ready because seeing it there and knowing that it was promised just made me waste time assuming there is some conditional thing preventing me from changing it. The next day they changed the install guide to fix an error with installing dual frequency output on later consoles but I still had the tab open with the outdated instructions from the night before. Luckily they didn’t apply to that console but they did apply to the one I did the next day. Caught the update on Twitter so it didn’t catch me off-guard. Just growing pains and first-time gotchas. Still thought I’d share my experience in case it saves anyone else the same frustrations. Didn’t expect all that after installing so many UltraHDMI kits but at least I know going forward. HoriPad Mini 64 and that 1200p display with no 240p support just can’t be part of my test setup. :) That display wasn’t part of my UltraHDMI HW2+DAC test setup but a tornado displaced us to a new workshop and new test setup, and that’s obviously not N64Digital’s fault.

[@LIRetroGaming]

Thanks Emmett and I’m glad that you enjoyed the video! I also had questions about why the analog flex should not be connected, and I was also curious about the YPbPr. Perhaps component will be added in some future update. I’m definitely looking forward to doing some more of these and if I find ways of optimizing the installation I will definitely share that information!

[@emmettturner9452]

@@LIRetroGaming Wasn’t doing any no-cuts that night but I just finished one after watching your video this morning. Thanks for the tip about cutting the foam in half. :)

[@caivsivlivs]

dang ypbpr analog out isn't supported yet? :( that is a shame, main reason i got it.

[@emmettturner9452]

@@caivsivlivs caught me by surprise too but the vestigial option for changing analog output is still visible (just doesn’t let you change) so I assume the feature is imminent in a near-future FW update. FWIW, I will be sharing how to make CHEAP component cables very shortly... like, under $5 for fully shielded cables. I’ll also show PlayStation 2/3, Wii/WiiU, XBOX, etc. I’m not much of a video content creator so it’ll probably be a demonstration with link to written instructions.

[@Captain_Char]

hint to remove the memory expansion, you can use the door itself to pop it out using the rounded corner if you dont have the tool or a flat head screwdriver laying around

[@emmettturner9452]

Even easier: It comes off with the top shell! I’ve been sharing this shortcut for years but maybe now it will get traction since Voultar just mentioned it. ;)

[@ChicagoRetroGamer]

Very cool video, love the N64!

[@chadwolf3840]

super helpful. thanks!

[@eduardohenriquelima]

when the video game consoles of yesteryear actually had the look and feel of video game consoles! Today's video game consoles look and feel like a home appliance. From VCR or DVD player. I miss it!

[@lexluthermiester]

Very cool mod! And well done with the soldering! EDIT: You forgot to put a thermal paste on the heatsink before reinstalling the shield. The N64 really benefits from thermal interface material. It doesn't have to be a highend paste, something inexpensive like Arctic MX-2, MX-4 or MX-5 would work wonders.

[@LIRetroGaming]

Thanks! And yes I do have to go back and add some paste!

[@emmettturner9452]

The TIM (thermal interface material; thermal pads) is under the heat blocks. It would undoubtedly perform better with some TIM (thermal grease) between the heat blocks and the rest of the heatsink but most N64s can run for days with no heatsink at all... maybe not if you closed it back up in the shell and I’m sure it will shorten the life but, yeah: They seem to tolerate overheating really well as the cooling system was over-engineered.

[@dcfuksurmom]

That "transistor" you got 5V from was actually a 7805 5V voltage regulator, maximum current output on them is usually around 1 amp, and they are usually slightly below 5V, usually 4.8V in my experience.

[@R3TR0R4V3]

Great video! I'm a lot less nervous about installing this now.. This doesn't look too bad at all. Too bad it's always sold out every time I check the site though. Doh! 😅

[@LIRetroGaming]

Yes, I don’t think this is too bad compared to some other mods. That being said, the flex cable on the RCP chip is still challenging because the pins are very small on that chip. There should be another round of kits available in July so definitely check that out!

[@tomwhite7982]

Hey love your channel! Watch your videos and think "maybe I could do that, or at least try." I went to play my Wii u yesterday and found it's battery dies really fast, the rumble pack is broken and the dpad right button is intermittent. Went to see if I could ship it to Nintendo for repair and they don't work on them anymore!! Could you possibly give some advise ? Weather I should try it myself or send it in somewhere ? Thanks so much !

[@LIRetroGaming]

I think that the older consoles from the 80s and 90s are good to start with because they are a lot simpler. Fortunately those problems you’re describing with the Wii U controller are not too bad though. You might be OK with trying it, but also look around and see if anyone local can help get that fixed as well

[@hugh2hoob668]

Still have mine original 1996 beat to hell but still works

[@user-yk1cw8im4h]

there is no sound after installation, checked for shorts etc. Any idea why?

[@enthusiasticgamer88]

I own an UltraHDMI but I still want one of these hahah, I'm a sucker.

[@gcecbg]

Would be nice if you had a capture card so we can see the quality better. It's something that's been lacking on your great videos. Very nice work though!

[@emmettturner9452]

While it would be nice to see, that’s more relevant to marketing the kit than the installation service or sharing installation advice. Heck, I like to see even more focus on just the hard parts, which is why I’m glad he didn’t needlessly show us how to remove every screw! :)

[@LIRetroGaming]

It’s fair, at some point I do need to grab a capture card. It would make it easier to show the final results

[@walty28msn]

awesome work !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@LIRetroGaming]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@dalebonneau9443]

So, component with multi-out. In other words, the HD Retrovision cable for SNES would now work on this mod? Can somebody confirm this?

[@LIRetroGaming]

Yes I can confirm that this will work

[@shize9ine]

You are right, i was thinking about the ultra hdmi... this is the group that announces sales on twitter, but theyre hard to snatch up. If you find any before I do, grab one and contact me! I've been trying to get an ultra hdmi for over a year now.

[@LIRetroGaming]

I think another N64digital sale is happening in July So definitely keep an eye out for that!

[@shize9ine]

@@LIRetroGaming sweet! Will do. What kind of no-clean flux do you use? I remember Voultar being very anal about how some chemistries of no-clean organic flux is caustic and will eventually start conducting and some no-clean flux is not cleanable with IPA alone and needs a water/IPA mix. i'll see if i can dig up that statement

[@shize9ine]

Voultar - "I use a generous amount of no-clean flux to demonstrate that it isn't something you should be afraid to use liberally. The no-clean flux that I use is neither corrosive or conductive, unspent. Consult the datasheet for your flux of choice, but STAY AWAY from water soluble (organic) fluxes, as the unspent deposits can be very caustic and WILL conduct. Once you improve your bodies, you'll be able to gauge the appropriate amount to dispense for good solder wetting. Even though I use a no-clean flux, I do clean the site thoroughly with an isopropyl/distilled water mix, even though I failed to include it here. There are no-flux chemistries that can't be properly cleaned with IPA. Again, consult your datasheet. You can see that in my SNESRGB SMD talks video."

[@mjc0961]

@@shize9ine Voultar should have a link to an Amazon shop in all his descriptions, where you can find the no-clean flux and all the other tools he uses, so you can be a champion just like him. You should be good then if you're worried about flux. Doesn't really answer the question of what flux LIRG uses though 😅

[@davethebulb]

Why does it state in the official docs that analogue out and HDMI can't be used at the same time with the no-cut mod?

[@emmettturner9452]

Same reason as UltraHDMI with No-Cut: Because the external connectors are physically too close to each other to populate both at the same time. Even if you have a low-profile Nintendo multi-out cable and force them in, you are putting too much stress on the miniHDMI. You could possibly get away with an FPC miniHDMI Type-C to standard HDMI Type-A adapter but it would be fragile.

[@gregjarvis1232]

Do you do the sega saturn fram mod? Thanks Greg

[@LIRetroGaming]

Yes, you can find that mod on my website 1uprestorations.com and I also did a video on the mod as well

[@renesav]

What side cable you used, (green) i have 30 but i believe it is too small

[@LIRetroGaming]

I used 28 gauge copper stranded wire

[@renesav]

@@LIRetroGaming ok thx

[@jasonmatney9037]

would like more info on getting this done to my jungle green N64, thanks!

[@LIRetroGaming]

Sure thing, you can contact me at 1uprestorations.com

[@jasonmatney9037]

@@LIRetroGaming thanks, just sent a message.

[@alexanderarce3341]

Can you find out how to install a HDTV 1080p on a Sega Saturn

[@LIRetroGaming]

Easiest way is to get an RGB cable and a scaler like the retrotink 2x

[@thunderstudent]

Can this be used with the warrior 64 shell?{unmodified motherboard is stock n64}

[@LIRetroGaming]

Most likely yes, but it’s not something I have tried yet

[@thunderstudent]

@@LIRetroGaming it would be pretty sweet

[@danielrhodes7594]

Hi, is your version(newer) of the N64 only have one 4mb memory module installed at U14 instead of two 2mb in the older version at U11 and U14. That being the case, can another 4mb module be added to your version or in the older versions take out the 2mb modules and replace with two 4mb modules. Will this improve the quality of play?

[@LIRetroGaming]

My newer version of the motherboard has the 4mb ram module, but it’s not possible to add another module on it because there are no additional pads on the motherboard

[@danielrhodes7594]

@@LIRetroGaming What about the older motherboards that have two 2mb ram modules, can't you change them out for 4mb modules?

[@dcfuksurmom]

@@danielrhodes7594 I've heard rumors of people getting up to 16MB working, however I've never seen it in person. Its a pointless mod though, as there are no N64 games that use more than 8MB (those games ofc require the expansion pack)

[@danielrhodes7594]

@@dcfuksurmom I understand no game uses that much memory, but will it not make things look somewhat better or things go faster. I am just looking at the concept for my apple computer. With only 4gb of memory it is slow. When I doubled it to 8GB it opened windows/websites twice as fast.

[@dcfuksurmom]

@@danielrhodes7594 it would only improve performance for games that were designed to take advantage of it, there aren't any.

[@jacobbaranowski]

I love N64

[@AlotofVowels]

Get a better lamp for your video. Like an LED Ring light. Love what you do! Keep up the good work!

[@LIRetroGaming]

Yeah that’s on my list of things to pick up. But I appreciate the feedback and I’m glad you enjoyed the video!

[@dcfuksurmom]

@@LIRetroGaming its honestly not that bad already, but It wouldn't hurt.

[@emmettturner9452]

A couple more notes: PixelFX says the second fold on the digital flex isn’t needed and suggests just curling it, despite their silkscreen marking for a second. Guess that’s ever so slightly safer? PixelFX/Dan also suggests leaving the 64DD mounting brackets out when you do a No-Cut install since they are unsecured and could potentially short something on the underside of the board. Though the lower shield is removed for No-Cut, my brother says he checked years ago and recalls that they don’t align to anything sensitive (just ground?). I’ll have to check again to be sure but in the mean time I thought I’d share. I should also mention that the self test will throw errors any time the game shows a blank screen or goes silent. That’s because it is indistinguishable between a short to voltage or ground. Seems too minor to note but in 2017 I actually had someone threaten me (then apologize) over his misunderstanding of how UltraHDMI’s self test works. White/black screens on Diddy Kong Racing intro + lagging test results on-screen convinced him it was an intermittent error. My attempts to explain it were misinterpreted as trying to avoid/dodge the issue... and that was WITH the on-screen message about how the game must display video and audio during the self test. Since the N64Digital self test does not have the same disclaimer the potential for this misunderstanding is even greater.

[@LIRetroGaming]

That’s very good information about the self test. I am curious than if it will throw up errors on the main menu of an everdrive for example, because the screen is static and nothing is going on. I’ll also try out some of those other games and see what I find

[@LIRetroGaming]

Oh and yes, I think you are right that the 64DD brackets only touch ground. It also looks like the plastic walls surrounding it are tall enough to prevent it from escaping and floating around freely

[@heresmybrotherluigihelloma4698]

​@@LIRetroGaming HEY ITS GOOD AND better THEN UltraHDMI ???

[@heresmybrotherluigihelloma4698]

@@LIRetroGaming AND YOUR CAN DO full review ???

[@emmettturner9452]

@@LIRetroGaming The digital audio pins typically get tied to ground when the RCP isn’t outputting any audio but the Everdrive menu does not follow the same programming guidelines (hence, going nuts with no controller). It may do something funny like leave the audio output enabled even when it isn’t playing audio. That said, N64Digital may not even test for audio. PS1Digital doesn’t. I assume it does based on their advice to test with audio playing but there seem to be surprisingly few pins being tested.

[@gregjarvis1232]

How does this compare to the ultra hdmi mod?

[@LIRetroGaming]

Overall I would say that it has a few more features, including analog RGB which the original Ultra HDMI did not have. If you go through the comments Emmett does a great job of explaining the differences in detail

[@lyianx]

How much is the kit? (currently sold out)

[@LIRetroGaming]

I think it's about $140

[@fsarfino]

What's the cost for this mod? Site is showing sold out with no price listed.

[@LIRetroGaming]

Pretty sure it’s $140

[@fsarfino]

@@LIRetroGaming thanks 👍

[@BlackHedgehog]

As someone who doesn't own a soldering iron and is completely unnerved at the prospect of soldering . . . this feels impossible to go about doing. Well I also don't currently own an N64 either but just modifying boards and things is unnerving to me. So I would honestly just stick with an adapter but if I ever end up knowing someone who is good with this stuff its definitely something I'd get done.

[@theboy181]

Is this Better than Marshals HDMI mod in anyway ?

[@LIRetroGaming]

It’s definitely better than the original HW1 but i’m not sure about all the differences between this and HW2. I’m hoping someone like retroRGB or My Life in Gaming does a detailed breakdown of features and comparisons

[@felipeaspiazu890]

Is the N64 Digital a better option than combining an EON 64 with an mClassic? I mean in image quality

[@LIRetroGaming]

Yes, it should be better than the eon because the Eon uses S video whereas the N64digital is a purely digital video signal

[@felipeaspiazu890]

@@LIRetroGaming yeah but I mean EON 64 combined with an mClassic

[@LIRetroGaming]

The mClassic is probably not going to improve the video quality much. Either way you are starting with an analog video signal whereas the N64digital gives you a purely digital signal

[@succuvamp_anna]

I just need a kit then I'll be golden.

[@LIRetroGaming]

My understanding is that they will be ready with another round in July

[@succuvamp_anna]

@@LIRetroGaming good, I had pretty much given up hope of ever getting an ultraHDMI so I'm glad another team stepped in.

[@CurrentGenGamesWithNick]

is your nes on your site 1080 p with hdmi slot ?

[@LIRetroGaming]

I don’t have any hdmi modded NES on my site at the moment, but I do have RGB modded consoles

[@CurrentGenGamesWithNick]

@@LIRetroGaming do you have anything HDMI Dreamcast a PlayStation 1 seag Genesis PS2?

[@warioexpert]

Has anyone tested this with an EON HDMI adapter? Im curious to see if this could be another solution other than getting the Ultra HDMI

[@LIRetroGaming]

the EON should work, but this mod outputs HDMI directly so an EON is not necessary

[@warioexpert]

Bruhh, i completly forgot i knew about this Kit before this video. Ive been out of the loop for a While 😅

[@johndee759]

Nice is this the competitor to the ultra hdmi?

[@LIRetroGaming]

Yes that is correct and it is definitely the best option available right now

[@johndee759]

@@LIRetroGaming psi 3000 and woozle for the win. How does this cost?

[@hosgoth]

it does feel like just a couple years ago

[@mathieulh]

You forgot to close the JP1 jumper on the flex cable, it is required when using the n64digital clock.

[@LIRetroGaming]

Yes I did it off camera and realized too late that I did not film it. I did mention this in the description of the video

[@emmettturner9452]

He mentioned that in the description.

[@mathieulh]

@@LIRetroGaming Sorry, I forgot to read the full description.

[@shize9ine]

@@mathieulh They also have a correction for cpu 08 & 09 models : twitter.com/PixelFXco/status/1408098857326624769/photo/1

[@TribalScience]

One day I'll find out about one of these mods while it's still in stock... UltraHDMI, Steelstick, etc.

[@LIRetroGaming]

Keep an eye on Twitter for announcements because there should be another sale in July

[@HOWLWOLF]

"I was a teenager in the mid 90's" Mind blown, I thought you were either my age or younger than me lol

[@LIRetroGaming]

Hahaha I appreciate it! This year I am turning 41 which is still hard to believe

[@oldguy9051]

@@LIRetroGaming Wait how you feel when you turn 50... ;-)

[@emmettturner9452]

@@LIRetroGaming Same. I was 15 when I preordered the N64 and had just turned 16 when it launched. :)

[@nyccollin]

Old Guy you're only as old as you feel. No reason that anyone can't feel young at 50 with good diet and exercise.

[@oldguy9051]

@@nyccollin True! But when I reached that "magic number" I really felt old for some time. At the end of your 40ies you can still deceive yourself a bit but when you see a cake with a big fat 50 on it you realize that this equals half a century... Truth to be told, this is more of a mental thing, like you wrote. When you are in halfway-decent shape this number isn't really important. I certainly didn't lose any interests or hobbies.

[@microgamingrepairs1981]

Of course it's sold out, wonder when the next run will be sold? How much are these?

[@LIRetroGaming]

They should be available in July again, and I think the price is about $140

[@user-gj6vg6nq2f]

How much?

[@user-gj6vg6nq2f]

Dang it's sold out!

[@mancloud19]

Just for clarification: the N64Digitial does not make your console region free. It will just align the clock to match the loaded Gameregion if loaded via a flashcart. NTSC carts still won't load on PAL et vice versa. Plus: that thing you soldered the 5V to is not a transistor, it's an LDO-Regulator 😉

[@LIRetroGaming]

Sorry for those errors, but yes you're correct on both points. I speak spontaneously during filming, so every now and then I may miss details like this.

[@emmettturner9452]

Yes, you need UltraCIC or UltraPIF to get around region locks.

[@dcfuksurmom]

Specifically a 7805 LDO-Regulator, max output current is usually around 1 amp on the 7805 regulators, and the voltage is usually slightly below 5V.

[@NordicDan]

Damn, less than 6.4ms. I'd say that's pretty damn good.

[@LIRetroGaming]

Yeah the latency on this thing is pretty phenomenal

[@batmanbatman1933]

As they say in Russia "hands from the ass". Drink a glass, the tremor will pass ®

[@6Diego1Diego9]

now if you could upgrade the fps somehow

[@GlassICE]

It'd sold out so, i guess end of discussion here

[@steveothehulk]

why are the graphics so blocky and pixelated? n64 shouldnt look like that, im not so sure i like it tbh, can it not make the graphics smoother?

[@ozzyp97]

Don't use deblur and enable scanlines, problem solved. That's my take on UltraHDMI anyway, and N64Digital is much more tweakable, if not quite as nice out of the box. I think there's also supposed be some built in smoothing filter, but that's not really how N64 should look like either.

[@yobb89]

sold out..

[@jmg5281986]

Sold out...I'll pass

[@TheEwanMC]

This mod probably won't be as great of an improvement for systems in N64 regions that had the PAL systems, which was already of higher resolution & quality than your NTSC standard.

[@39zack]

And sold out 😬

[@LIRetroGaming]

Another round of these will be available, most likely in July

[@1234rtyoip]

......of course they're sold out.....

[@rdaws73]

Sold out....lame

[@LIRetroGaming]

Another round is scheduled in July

[@rdaws73]

@@LIRetroGaming Good, what was the price?

[@Sackface225]

@@LIRetroGaming How much does this set costs? The flex cable alone costs 20€

[@R3TR0R4V3]

I think it was over $200 iirc. Look on reddit.. I think it's mentioned there. I always miss out, but hopefully next batch. 🤞

[@INDEFINITELIFESPAN]

“You start in the center because if you start on the extreme right or left, what ends up happening is that if you made an error in alignment, that error just compounds so that by the time you get yo the end it’s pretty bad” …pretty relatable to modern politics….

[@donnierussellii4659]

HDMI is not an open standard, and all the LLC has to do is send a letter to stop projects like this (if the fee isn't paid). Why oh why was it embraced by consumers, and more importantly the retro modding community? There was some pushback then it disappeared...

[@Druid_Plow]

And just like ultra hdmi. Sold out and being sold for inflated prices on eBay. Even the retro game community is full of toxic scumbag scalpers.