Natural Looking Flambient Real Estate Photography - Full Shoot And Edit

[@WillGayPhoto]

For those who are looking for tutorials on anything I do in this video you can find them in the description. This was already going to be a long video and I am notoriously long winded so for the sake of all of our sanity....please find those links in the description! ^_^ Thank you!

[@OneTap__]

*Love the video. One tip the camera is to shaky. Try to put it down. ... its really to shaky.*

[@dialinmediallc]

Hey Will, Which AF-area mode are you using for RE, I shoot on a Z6iii and I've had some issues with at least 2-3 photos not coming into focus through a whole house shoot. I was previously shooting on Auto-area AF. Is that what you're using? I was looking through the options and I noticed Wide Area AF (L). Would that work better?

[@360VRStudios]

Take advantage of U1, U2 and U3. U1 could be used to bracket (5 exposures or whatever exposures you need). U2 could be set as your Flash, set the K value. U3 same as U2 with 1/200 for those window pulls.

[@emeliepersson1897]

How do you automatically name files in camera for flash and exterior?

[@AlSo-Fotografie]

6:20 nice solution for better organizing! Too bad, Canon doesnt provide this feature in the custom setting :/

[@360VRStudios]

If you can move the chair, then move it back.

[@WillGayPhoto]

I would not move staging. The agent has paid a large sum of money for a designer to come in and stage the home a certain way. Small things like items on a counter sure but I would not move a chair or couch etc. Its far simpler to move your tripod a few inches.

[@dataventurer9998]

Will, this video is much easier to follow because of your efforts to use a different screen resolution. Thank you! It does make a difference when attempting to follow what you are doing on the screen!

[@WillGayPhoto]

You're very welcome. As much as I personally dislike it, I am glad it was better for you. Going forward I will keep it this resolution.

[@DA-lp4rh]

i tried the lantern today - although I chose to use a side to side (more like diagonal) technique with the top town tilted approach and 45-degrees on larger space -I have to say that I really liked it and my editing was easier - I found that I had to do much less color cast correction and things moved much quicker in post. Very pleasing look over all. I used the two sided room pops because I like the contrast a bit more that way. That said - I used a quick over camera pop for a darken color repair layer, which came in very handy and was so quick on site too. I used the AD300 with an Aperture lantern, which is about 25" and fits perfectly through doorways - any bigger and it would not work. Thanks for sharing....

[@kenbeale3781]

Thank you for this, Will. It is detailed and simple, without talking down to us. You make a very good teacher.

[@lawabidingcitizen1-e7f]

Thanks! That is very informative and helpful.

[@WillGayPhoto]

You are very welcome, glad it was helpful!

[@ReframephotoGR]

Nice presentation! Lots of useful tips!!! Thank you.

[@WillGayPhoto]

Thank you. I appreciate that.

[@alexanderbarkoff3894]

I get the trigger that talks to the camera and strobe but what are you using to fire the camera / strobe remotely?

[@ptatore]

Hi Will, first off your videos are amazing! I noticed that your 3 bracket shots were at ISO 400 and the flash shot was ISO 160. Any reason for the changing it. Thanks

[@WillGayPhoto]

Thank you! Yes because if I leave it at 400iso the windows will blow out. On almost all cameras you are locked to 1/200th of a second flash sync speed. At ISO 400 the windows are WAY too bright. I could crank the aperture down but then it could shift focus by making the DoF wider and not blend well in photoshop. Since I can't increase the shutter above 1/200th the only option is to turn down the ISO. A global shutter camera would change things since you are not limited to the traditional flash sync speeds but they are extremely expensive and are so uncommon its not worth considering yet. Noise isnt a factor at this point either. The reason I use 400 on the brackets is just because I want to keep my shutter speed from dipping down too low and keeping it open for too long and I bump it or something. Plus Im impatient lol

[@Brody_Port]

Very Well Done. Gonna have to check out that ball.

[@WillGayPhoto]

There are cheaper options too. I think Neewer makes one that is slightly smaller and $20-30 cheaper. Just be aware that the smaller you go the less soft your light will look. The larger, the more soft. Its a balance of ease of use vs quality of light with this one.

[@xSM666x]

Interesting Video. Why are you using Enfuse to combine your images instead of the HDR merger in Lightroom? I think it works very well.

[@WillGayPhoto]

Enfuse does a better job of blending the highlights and shadows than the HDR function of LR in my experience. And its personal preference. There is no "best" because if there was we would all be using it. I find I am able to get better results, faster with LR enfuse. But if you find the opposite great! There is no wrong answer. I just prefer this tool. However I use the LR HDR function for twilights and exteriors because I find it does a better job outdoors.

[@Criticalhitkoala]

Thanks for sharing what you do. Really enjoyed it. I used to do real estate photography as a side hustle and it's just nice revisiting it, exploring how others do it, and also seeing what motivates them creatively, which you were able to articulate well. I know it's a little more work but during the setup it would of been nice to see a side by side of a shot you like compared to a shot by the door like you setup at 2:20 to see the side by side difference. PS yeah those godox triggers are a blast. I had the old school version and the smaller non ttl versions and love these new ones. The only annoying issue is when you get them the default language is in Chinese (and if you do a reset) so that's always funky to navigate.

[@WillGayPhoto]

I actually have a few vacant homes coming up so I will put that on my list. I appreciate the feedback. A lot of this stuff I see so much in my own head and professional career I just don't think it would be useful but I forget that all of this is not for me, but for you guys and to help the community. Yea I noticed it did come with Chinese as the default. Thankfully it wasn't too hard to change and my wife speak chinese so I had a lifeline if I couldn't figure it out!

[@radoo86]

Very usefull, thank you! I did not know you can change the file name from the camera with the profiles, this will help me a lot.

[@WillGayPhoto]

No problem! It works for what I do, but that by no means is the best of correct way of doing it. Glad it helps you tho!

[@mikestewart4733]

New approach to lighting? In your videos from just a couple months ago you were still using the standard reflector with a diffuser. Please share more about why you changed.

[@WillGayPhoto]

Im always trying to get better at what I do. I was using the reflector with a diffuser and plastic diffusion disc over it. And I had been for years because of the company I worked for. They needed a quick way to lightup rooms, but not bounce off walls and ceilings. So I came up with that setup. No one else was doing it and it made us faster and better than our compeition. But now that I am running the show at my business I wanted to step it up. I am no longer bound by 45min time constraints. So I started experimenting and remembered using orbs from my advertising days and their quality of light. Took a shot on this Godox lantern and have been really pleased with the results. The softness of shadows is reason #1. They just are extremely soft and barely there which makes flambient editing faster and better. #2 the quality of light is just better. Its soft, it spreads farther and fills more because of the diffuser. and finally #3 is that makes the end results look better than bouncing or using that bell housing. My photos are just better because of it. It has its drawbacks, it slower shooting, its more complicated and more cumbersome to use but for my business it works. I am quality based not quantity and my clients expect alot, this helps me do it easier. ^_^

[@mikestewart4733]

@@WillGayPhoto three cheers for the quality ovre quantity team! 🙂

[@360VRStudios]

If you got windows far away, it is hard to use darken mode because there is not enough light. Therefore, move closer and take a flash of the window. Then you could darken mode blend the far windows in post.

[@360VRStudios]

That is why you need a remote trigger. Walk and flash.

[@WillGayPhoto]

Thats one way to do it for sure. I have never enjoyed working that way, I like to keep it as quick and light weight as possible which includes not adding too many extra frames for trivial things like windows that are too far away, scalloped or dished ceilings, and shadows from ceiling fans. But if its something you can do that adds value and doesn't eat into your time. Im all for it!

[@360VRStudios]

@@WillGayPhoto using pen tool and tracing it out, that eats time if not more. Flash it.

[@GOOMONG-it4ol]

I love it!

[@abphoto4]

do you mind sharing what flash and orb you are using?

[@WillGayPhoto]

Godox AD400 Pro and Godox CS-50D for the orb.

[@DesertRat62]

​@@WillGayPhoto So what is the reason most r/e photographers don't use the orb?