I Over Engineered A Extractor Install

[@jonathanrose456]

You’ll get water back into the fan with the pipe set that way. Needs to be above the exit point. I attach the fans to the rafters (levelled). Keeps the fan away from the insulators & helps to eliminate mould in the fan & pipe. I also use foiled pipe. Stops mould

[@Chris-hq5zs]

S1 and live are connected internally. When S2 goes live the device notes a switch action. Frankly speaking, I’d have the switch trigger the lights and then use Home Assistant to trigger the extractor fan via automation. I have a 100 device house - Keep it simple and let HA do the work. If you must link them, just link S2-S2

[@cassiomx88]

I went to a job last month where someone had run 2 lots of plastic flexi ducting around 3m from a kitchen and surface mount bathroom extractor and used 2 lots of 5m flexi ducting. Was in a very awkward tiny crawl through space. The reported issue was water dripping out of both fans. The whole flat (renovated about a year ago) was covered in mould from condensation! the sack in the ducting was so excessive, that probably 5 or 6 litres of water had collected in each, forming complete u-bends over joists. The 230volt IP44 Manrose fan in the shower was still spinning - although it didn't sound very happy!. Trying to empty out that much water was a right git

[@IndustrialRobots]

I had a new build inspection and one of the points the bulder had to rectify was they used tape to fix the flexible ducting to the inlet/outlets for the extractor's, It should have a mechanical fixing (like a metal strap or jubilee clip)

[@denisohbrien]

Can be over engineered further. On my install i inclided the sonoff temp and humidity sensor , chucked it in the duct right at the grille, auto turns on if the showers running, and added a sonof switch to "boost" it when doing a stinky poo. Only cones on when needed not with the lights x

[@tb5269]

I’ve just watched 12 episodes of an epically neat house rewire Nick, therefore this is by no means your usual version of over engineered!!

[@barrieshepherd7694]

Building Control made the guy who fitted my bathroom fan ; A) use ridgid pipe from the fan unit to the outside vent and have a fall - necessitated raising the fan significantly B) use insulated flexible from the room vent to the fan - and no excess loops/bends C) they came back and tested that a fan overrun was set (they had other stuff to inspect as well)

[@cliveramsbotty6077]

nice to hear building control are paying good attention where you are. approved document f is very helpful for guidance on compliance.

[@mikeshnagar]

Regarding the chasing light what you can get is some COB LED ws2811B and pair it up with a WLED controller. The controller can be used via phone or home assistant and allow you to control brightness, effects

[@roscop233]

2nd that option. @IntermitTech has great information and products to match. Dig2go is an excellent option kzbin.info/www/bejne/i325d6eupa97iZI

[@dorianwylie9000]

I did that for my parents extractor, added it to home assistant with an aqara humidity/temp/pressure sensor all zigbee protocol and it works a treat....i have an intel nuc and virtual machine running the home assistant OS and love it 😊 i find the spark side of me and soft dev side of me works hand in hand for this stuff

[@bakerinspain]

Was going to comment but plenty have already given the solutions. Home assistant to mirror state, no need to link. And WLED is the future for addressable Leds. Love the videos. Would be cool to see more of your bros HA as I'm getting into it too.

[@sygad1]

Glepopto WLED controller and WS2812 LEDs, practically plug and play for home assistant

[@Stuart0870]

Gledopto*

[@sygad1]

@@Stuart0870 LOL

[@pn8902]

Really nice to see electricians getting into the world of home assistant. About the LED strip thing. You or your brother can look around for a smart ARGB LED strip controller, the led youre talking about is called addressable LED strip and those let you have those animations etc pretty cool, so youll need ARGB LED strip and ARGB controller and thats it. Most of them want a 12v/24v supply with a barrel jack and they have terminals for hardwired power so i'd suggest getting a meanwell DIN rail mountable power supply and mount it all up in a junction box so its all contained

[@dimitar4y]

downlights with wagos are a blessing, so many downlights have extremely bad terminals that pull out as soon as you shove the light in the ceiling or really fiddly screws that fall out easily and/or break easily when you tighten the terminals.

[@jasonwatson9011]

Fan needs lifting up higher. There should be a fall to the outside for condensation. I would of used rigid ducting to the outside.

[@danielharvey8498]

I would have Lifted the fan higher, used a High rise vent kit , solid duct with condense trap installed

[@mercian8051]

If you want to connect the two Zigbee relays with one light switch you could just use a simple double throw relay and wire the switch activate the coil in the simple relay

[@lefty8493]

I have an Aeotec multi sensor 6 in and ceiling mount. Thats turns the lights on when it senses movement and turns the fan on when the room is hot or humidity rises. Also speak to Arc LEDs about your led. I’m sure they do it.

[@dannyhillard3469]

+1 For home assistant I’ve got about 600 devices running on my setup I prefer to use Shelly relays as you can use them to actively sniff for Bluetooth devices then you can use home assistant to only trigger automations based on who is in the room the fun with automating your house never stops 👍 top job as always Nick

[@StorminBriski]

Never thought about using open grommets as feet. When I used to install the envirovents they came with these foam pads and washers for sound deadening

[@dancapewell]

You need a strip of ws2812b leds they are individually addressable along the whole strip ao you can even have each one display a different colour or if you have a panel out of them you can make pictures etc then you need an appropriate controller for them to allow them to be addressed how you wish, you can get simple controllers with patterns already programmed or you can get right in to the programming side of things and run them off of atmega chips but these require some form of coding knowledge but its what peopem use to make fantastic art displays etc out of whole houses for Halloween and Christmas etc

[@Cornish_Stu]

Home Assistant paired with an ESP32 chip and WLED installed can control the LED's (Athom offer a pre-packaged box) add individually addressable LED's like WS2812B 5V from BTF-lighting and you're be up and running. Configuring the light effects will take a bit of time based on LED count and segments you want to create. Being a fellow HA virgin I'm sure this will be fun for your brother. Shelly relays maybe be better a solution than Sonoff, there is quite a range! They have 'mini' versions with power monitoring that fit in a back box behind the switch, 35mm at a squeeze, 47mm comfortably. Just done the lighting for our main bathroom but kept the extractor fan separate as it has its own humidity sensor built in. Cheers Stuart from Wighton IT.

[@Chris-hy6jy]

Why oh why can't they come up with a better retention mechanism that those bloody sprung wing things. Every time you remove one you take a chunk out of the ceiling!

[@max246]

I would change the light to be a SONOFF M5, so you can read the state of the light at any time. Theb fit the sonoff relay that will be driven by HA, when the light switch is on, the extraction fan goes on. To mitigate the humidity, i would get a sonoff SNZB. This will read any high humidity and make a rule in HA to keep the fan on in case the humidity is still high sfter the light switch is turned off.

[@badbradmx]

Individually addressable LED strips. Having the right keywords can make searching easier.

[@jammyb2008]

Insulated ducting and a terracotta coloured external grille would have been nice!

[@davidcooper6299]

A nice neat job as usual. I’ve started using collapsible external vent grills that can be pushed through from inside so no need for external access. Available from that well know on line store.

[@Benmiles__]

Pixel Lx is who we use for addressable tapes. Have done a couple projects with it and seems decent, customer support is quality too. Mostly plug and play as well 👍🏻

[@chrisglover1978]

Nice to know I gave you some inspiration for the extractor fan!

[@kevinpearson1600]

Drill through from in the loft then pull up a soil pipe with the grill attached with some cable also make the grill adjustable by slotting the fixings so the grill sits flush to the wall

[@RobsonHarrison]

I think all you need is an LED strip that's individually addressable, I believe lifX sells them. The behaviour of progressing turn on can be set on the controller which then happens each time you flick the switch.

[@RAdcock-rs7nx]

Two points - 1. did you fit a backdraught shutter on the extraction (unless the fan has one built-in) and 2. your bro really needs to upgrade that loft insulation. By doing so he WILL save a load of heat escape (=lower heating cost) and also the ceiling will be warmer, reducing the condensation problem.

[@Sdavies93]

The X50 look great tbf. I’m trying to move away from integrated though because I fitted Ovia Nano for the last 6/7 years with no problems other than the odd failure, but guess what?! Discontinued! I don’t like their new replacements either. So good LED lamp and can is the way for me now

[@HeathenGeek]

nice setup with the option of the fan not switching on at specific times 😎 For ducting going through brickwork / cavities / and that. . . it's recommended that rigid ducting is used for this bit. You can get 1m lengths from Screwfix instead of having to get a length of 110mm PVC pipe or that 🙂

[@iauk1122]

Use ESP32 with individual addressable LEDs, then WLED to control it. (That’s for the lights question at the end)

[@NiallMcKenzie]

had a similar issue with our new bathroom. It doesn't have any windows, so light has to be on every time you use it, but clearly don't want extractor to be on all the time. I put a water sensor on the hot water feed for the shower and used that to switch the extractor fan - so only comes on when someone has a (hot) shower! Did put a momentary switch in parallel in the airing cupboard so it can be manually turned on too.

[@markingle8487]

What a great idea; never thought of that!

[@Arachnoid_of_the_underverse]

Im surprised they dont make a flue vent like they do with combi boiler where you put a rope through the hole and can pull the vent up into place without having the need to have direct physical access to the outside wall.

[@rayc1503]

Xpelair SSWKWR 92991AB 100mm Easy-Fit Wall Kit with White Round Grille. Easy fit all from the inside. I've fit a few now. Not quite the same as having to pull the flue with a string though. Flue snug is way better for internal fit flues. It's less fuss coring 152mm hole than having to climb up ladders. I've seen an install where someone used it on a fan extractor too.

[@stephenfanthorpe2708]

Like he said , I always use them for extractors fast and simple especially handy if next door is so close can’t get a ladder in , only gripe they aren’t any ridges on the spigot so need to really crank those tie wraps tight or sometimes flexi ducting slips off when it’s freezing outside for the 1st time

[@gadgetman36]

6:45 I used to like tractors. 🚜 So now I'm an ex-tractor fan! 😂

[@markrainford1219]

Just fitted exactly the same fan with remote humidistat in my bathroom yesterday. Spooky.

[@ScottSmudger]

With those sonoff switches, I believe S1 is essentially a permanent live out, so if you wanted to turn the fan on if the lights turn on then you should be able to connect the L out of the lights to S2 of the fan as these switches expect an input on S2. I'm not sure if you are able to stop this behaviour from home assistant as it could be in the sonoff design. I think I would just turn the fan on if the lights are turned on via HA (at whatever times etc) then you can just ignore S1 and S2 of the fan's sonoff switch

[@andrejins]

The best way to link two smart switches is through home assistant, even two sonoff switches don’t like same input on s2 i have not found why, but yes ultimatelly connect light switch to sonoff one and imitate state on second one, plus add few minutes of fan on after light has been switched off ;)

[@DaltonCassidy-o8b]

Hi nick you can get the govee led strips with RGBW OR RGBC that can do the chase they come with white led and it’s all done on a app

[@waynemoate9401]

Zinseer Peel Stop will stop the peeling paint.

[@mitchellmnr]

Re the Sonoffs You can just wire the 1 And have the other one follow the state So switch on/off lights And the extractor follow state - with condition when within timeframe. However ..... I'd recommend something else instead - Have a look at the sonoff TH16 < or whatever - its just the temp and humidity variant When humidity > 90% - switch on < 60% switch off. Because the ceiling and humidity is what causes the issues. You also don't need the extra on all the time when you just pop into the bathroom .... You could also do this : When light switches off (when they were on for > 5min) - turn on extractor fan for 5 min (just to get smells out) But if you quickly go into the room, it wont activate. (these can be done with sensors as well) You could also add a condition the door was closed. ^ so door sensor. Like if you go into the bathroom, but don't close the door .... 90% chance you dont need the extractor. But if you are in there (maybe lets say 15min not 5min...) ... extractor when you open the door probs good idea Since if smells - door is now open so pulls air out (mini vacuum) And if humidity triggers, then forces airflow to make sure the rooms humidity level drops so no moisture (few hours btw .... from my experience) The biggest thing is think of it like this. Main thing you need to control is the lights if all else fails. But the extractor is not something someone needs to specifically control - so you can automate the hell out of it and never think of it again. Then your final question. Look at QuinLED - he is also a youtuber so you can look at the varients that he has. But all HA supported LED control boards.... so have fun to your hearts content :)

[@petertallowin6406]

I like Jcc for almost all lighting except flood lights. They have not mastered that one yet. That looks like a nice product. :)

[@callumBee]

Shelly Plus 2PM Might be a solution to your issue. Its similar to the Sonoff one there but has two relays inside instead of the one.

[@euanmcgill918]

Literally just ordered one of these for the same job 😊

[@jayjambo8]

I had that problem with getting the can out the ceiling today, I snip the arms off

[@thingsmadebyjoe]

Hey Nick. I’ve installed the “swoopy” LEDs before but these were done with neopixels and WLED, so not “off the shelf”

[@mainlineelectronics5266]

Installing a fan is now notifiable, plus you have to go on a course, plus you have to be assessed on this each year, on top of your normal assessment.

[@cliveramsbotty6077]

where is that stated? i know it's notifiable works and a commissioning form should be submitted by a competent person but i'm struggling to find the regs that say you need to do a course and be re-assessed every year. thanks

[@mainlineelectronics5266]

@@cliveramsbotty6077 kzbin.info/www/bejne/emrEgHqlodGaY7s

[@mainlineelectronics5266]

@@cliveramsbotty6077 Part F of the building regs. There is an efixx video about it.

[@hogg8888]

Sonoff are really reliable as an fyi. I have used them for a while and they never drop out..

[@WrongWordsOnporpoise]

I posted a couple of links for the leds - It will be in your held comments. Sonoff - connected S1 to S2 switches the device on but you do not want the extractor to come on always when the light is on!

[@craigevans9617]

Love watching content like this, a mixture of tips and insight into how a job is done thanks for sharing. It wasn't quite clear to me, did he cover up the vent tubing and fan with the loft insulation or just the vent?

[@JasGawera]

I thought I was the only one with a smart extractor. I set mine so it doesn't come on during the night. Two independent switches controlled by home assistant. (Sonoff switches flashed with Tasmota)

[@sygad1]

I wish those spotlight connectors were available to buy seperately, it would be the next level to quickwire connectors

[@pendragon68]

good tip to use grommits.... thanks

[@lordgeeker1138]

Love this video - the HA stuff really appeals - you should do more stuff for free with your brother. I have 2 Shelly relays for our bathroom extractor fans that I need to fit because my kids think everything is automated in this house so shower without putting the fan on manually. Also, so many missed opportunities about Adam's mum. Whats going on ?

[@martyn334]

make your own fancy led's use wled and addressable led strips :)

[@matt9852]

I also did a ZigBee switched extractor installation

[@paulgrieve63]

looks like the ceiling could do with a seal coat i bet it was newly plastered before painted

[@supersparks9466]

You over engineer everything ,but I like it.

[@jamesm19777]

I would have used a two gang zigbee module the switches on the Sonoff are isolated probably looking for a pull up resistor so by joining the 2 modules switches probably messing up the resistance it’s looking for, I’ve been doing home assistant for well over 8 years now but it wasn’t as easy to setup at the start you had to do it all in yaml files. oh the zigbee 😂 (Paul Hibert you tuber) not quite sure what switch your using but you could use a double pole switch to switch both modules at the same time if that’s required, the you tuber who got me into home assistant was Dr Zzz and he does loads of videos about addressable led’s

[@DTech101]

Personally got Siri in the kitchen and just tell it to turn on the kitchen fan all done through HA

[@Xennial_Dad]

Would it not work by software linking them? When light relay is on if correct time of day and humidity conditions are met turn on fan relay

[@freeitstafford]

I have my whole flat kitted out with addressable LED's, ESP32, and WLED, which lots of people are suggesting. If you need to know about that stuff there is some soldering involved, it's not exactly plug and play, but I have a tub of ESP32's spare and I can tell you all you need to know or send you some vids of my setup, leme know if you need pointers

[@johnmcfadden7418]

nice job I thought you were going to pull out the anemoeter and take a reading

[@NavyPix3l]

Nick, any recomendations for smart breakers in distribution box? i want them to link to home assistant so i can monitor power usage on different circuits?

[@anthonybragg]

It helps if when the fan is on there is fresh air coming in usually by a small gap under the door so there is air movement. Do the improved JCC downlights look the same as the old ones when installed or was that why you had to replace them all?

[@mhmg511]

Shelly Pro 2 PM & WLED

[@Sdavies93]

Oh and if you want a good filler One Strike is brilliant!

[@Vexz99]

Any addressable led strip will work..

[@jameshansing5396]

Not insulated ducting?

[@JasGawera]

Also, could raise the fan up so at least water runs outside if it does condense. I've just found a duct with a few litres of water in my loft, installer had left plenty of slack ducting just coiled up as the low point. Luckily it was the vent for the soil stack, so easy-ish to pour it away. Must be some rain getting in. I've removed the slack now, so if rain does get in, it just goes down the stack.

[@rayc1503]

​@@JasGaweraYou can purchase ducting with a condensate run off. It's a great solution. I'd have the ducting fall to the external exhaust point if possible though.

[@g.williamswilliams8442]

Nice job

[@ThisIsJamesL]

SONOFF stuff us brill

[@MartynSmith]

Great Video

[@derekrichardson9138]

Yo I use click smart they do a module that do 2 things an can be programed on timers to work together or off one switch don't they make a module the same

[@Cam.Klingon]

thanks fo rteh love ya bye, it's your trademark...

[@jakehaggett7705]

Hi Nick, Just emailed you about the chasing LEDs.

[@edglue6138]

Ronny Core Bit

[@freelifeproductions]

if you want a led light like that. you need programmable LED's and a Raspberry Pi and a little bit of knowledge how to program that stuff... not easy..

[@PhilM82]

Get some govee led tape

[@HeathenGeek]

11:30 if you're one of the designers of this fan. . . why do you's keep sticking components right in front of the terminals ffs!

[@Woodkin007]

Interesting grammar trick. If you put A before a word and that word begins with a vowel, the A becomes an An.

[@_chrisr_]

Funnily enough I was watching a youtube about this very thing and it seems that this is changing at least for vocal form and it's not uncommon (more so in US but even in UK) to find people using "a" followed by a pause and then using a word starting with a vowel.

[@Swwils]

Flexible ducting is not suitable

[@AGRElectrics]

Get away from using dryer hose and go rigid

[@Chris-hy6jy]

To all these people with houses wired up with HA all over the place. What happens when you come to sell the house to Mr and Mrs "Average Joe" who don't want to rely on servers and phone apps to turn the lights on and off? Rip it all out and get another re-wire?