Neapolitan Style Jackets

[@mycstory]

I think this jacket is too tight

[@gentlemenscholarsclub]

I tend to agree concerning the waist, which I plan to let out. It's possible I've also gained weight from being at home during COVID. However, take a look at this other video of the jacket and see what you think of the fit: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aZ2agHt4q7CFfNE

[@BestYear2016]

Good job 👏 sir

[@gentlemenscholarsclub]

So nice of you

[@mantabond]

We came here to be educated; the instructional video did not disappoint. Cheers.

[@SionTJobbins]

What trousers would you wear with these jackets? Are there particular trousers to match?

[@gentlemenscholarsclub]

Pretty much any dress trouser would work, though for similar Neapolitan style, perhaps ones with side adjusters and maybe pleated, depending on how far you wish to take it.

[@toobalkain]

Great video. So I found this bespoke tailor locally and he's been trying really hard but he just doesn't seem to be able to get the shoulders right, they just don't "sing" and I don't know why, it's as if on really good tailoring the shoulder line looks kinda like a ski jump, it has a crescent, concave shape, and it doesn't even matter if it's padded or not or whether it ends in pagoda, con rollino or anything, while when my guy makes shoulders they somehow look flatter, they lack this ski jump, crescent effect, any idea why that is? It's not me, because I'm quite muscular and broad shouldered and I look great in, say, Canali jackets, it's the tailor, but I can't put my finger on what he's doing wrong. Could it be the collar should be higher so as to create more of an angle and an optical illusion of a crescent, is there some technical trick he's missing? It's funny, really, Sonya Glyn mentions in an article that most tailors aren't really good stylists, the two things don't seem to correlate and I can see that for some things I have a more nuanced eye than my tailor, as technically good as he is. I'm almost losing faith in bespoke, I look better in OTR jackets, and I'm skeptical about full canvas too, the only + I see for that much more work is if the edge of the quarters is kinda curled the way Casa del Sarto make their jackets so they look kind 3-dimensional and the lapel roll is continued downward, otherwise I'm not even sure why full canvas is worth the hassle.

[@gentlemenscholarsclub]

I would say unless the tailor has had experience making Neapolitan style jackets, they likely would not succeed in imitating it, at least not with a lot of effort and study. Simon Crompton has said when he's asked a British tailor to do Italian style, for example, which is not the tailor's house style the result may not turn out except probably after a lot of reworking, and even then maybe not. The Neapolitan tailors would know how to do it as a routine thing though. I would try to go to a trunk show of Neapolitan tailors or the Asian brands that do it well if they're accessible to you Re: bespoke, with more casual style, I've convinced myself that RTW is fine. TBH, I haven't shelled out for bespoke or even true MTM, so maybe I'd change my tune. But for something nice to wear regularly just for style and just for fun, I think a half-canvas RTW is fine.

[@toobalkain]

@@gentlemenscholarsclub My thoughts exactly but it's also true that RTW offers a much narrower choice of fabrics and if you're into tailoring, you might be tempted to try bespoke and see if it's all it's cracked up to be. Well, at least my guy is willing to put in the effort, he effed up the first jacket so he's doing it from scratch again with new cloth and he's now making me three different 1st fitting jackets from trial fabric to try and get it right. As far as I can see, 3 things more than others determine whether a jacket will look good, the buttoning stance, the lapel - quarters line and above all, the shoulder line, if he gets the shoulders right, it might look good even if the buttoning stance is a tad too high.

[@toobalkain]

@@gentlemenscholarsclub you'd think Simon would just draw the damn thing himself.

[@flight_of_phoenix]

The jacket is nice. But the lapels are popping up after you are raising your hand. I guess the lapels should lay flat. Is that fixable? Also is the jacket half-canvas?

[@gentlemenscholarsclub]

Some of that may be because I was too lazy to press the lapel(s) before shooting the video since the fabric contains linen, and one of the lapels was bent to start. This was a first MTM from Spier & Mackay, so it can possibly be slightly too fitted in the waist, but it feels fine otherwise, and there's no popping when I'm not raising my arms high.. Yes, it's half canvas.

[@pattgsm]

@@gentlemenscholarsclub -for a 1st MTO attempt, the jacket looks good. Nailing your fit should be a breeze on your next 1.

[@gentlemenscholarsclub]

@@pattgsm Check out a better view of the jacket here where I talk about the MTM: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aZ2agHt4q7CFfNE

[@juanfigueroa-serville2465]

Thank you Sir!!!

[@jaimezamudiomendez9426]

Muy buena explicación. Nos ayudaría los subtítulos en español. Muchas gracias. Saludos cordiales desde México

[@gentlemenscholarsclub]

Gracias, Jaime!