Can these really be better than the stock wiper? The ratings say they can, so let's find out!

[@Country_Bubba]

Please come up with a great solution. I have seen to many times on this channel where you have made a simple, but effective solution to many problems. Thanks for all your efforts.

[@haldir234]

I also tried like 20 of them then i made my own search Poop Chute GitHub Cover with A1 mini

[@SirHackaL0t.]

‘I like to leave things as stock as possible’… whilst changing the hot end. Lol

[@komischertyp4]

It‘s an OEM component. Or at least licensed

[@cardboardpig]

And then tests wiping solutions made for stock nozzles...

[@terrydekoninck5600]

You might want to include the full statement - "Unless we don't have another option". Are you a media member?

[@Sjoerdtje]

@@terrydekoninck5600 Changing your stock nozzle to a high flow nozzle is an optional quality of life upgrade and not really a "we have no other choice" upgrade.

[@dss539]

Changing the hot end is something you are expected to do. It's a wear and tear part that can and will need replacing, especially if printing abrasive filaments. You change the hot end when switching between 0.4 and 0.2, 0.6, 0.8 nozzles even from Bambu. If someone installs a performance oil filter in their car, is that "not stock" as well? I guess technically, no, but it's an incredibly minor variance.

[@yaliofek4384]

Please come up with a great solution. I have seen to many times on this channel where you have made a simple, but effective solution to many problems. Thanks for all your efforts.

[@abitnutz6747]

Yeah, it's a pain but I ended up using an actual brass brush from a Dremmel attachemt . Contrary to what you might think, it doesn't tear up the silicone boot or the nozzle. I think Voron's use the same idea. There are several out there for the Bambu. The clean like nothing else and they're super cheap.

[@DaveEtchells]

Sounds like a good solution. Do you have to periodically clean off the brass brush itself or does the filament just not stick to it?

[@abitnutz6747]

@@DaveEtchells Eventually I the brass brush gets clogged up but then I just throw it away, they're so cheap. It takes a while for that to happen, quite a while. I did clean one once but I decided it wasn't worth it.

[@andyspoo2]

Do you have a link to the model for this?

[@OmegaGamingNetwork]

The Scrubbler is the best one overall. I tried all of those and hated them long term. It has been updated a few times since I originally downloaded it, but the basic premise is it uses the A1 wiper combined with the Stock wiper for the benefits of both. I have well over 5000 hours across two printers on that and never have poops in my chamber. (Being fair I use stock hardened nozzles). I just updated to the newest version when I did my recent full tear down maintenance and so far performance seems just as good. As a note it is important to CA glue the A1 wiper to the newer version. However this is balanced out by the fact that the piece that is attached too is significantly smaller and it prints several so you just replace that entire piece when the teeth start tearing off. I do nothing but multi color printing and just recently finished a batch of 220 pieces that had 10 filament changes each with no poops or little bits of crap all over the chamber. The only issue I had from the start was the edge of the piece that the A1 wiper sits on was a little thicker than it needed be and would Z axis error out some of my non OEM print plates. A few moments with a sander on the offending corner resolved that entirely.

[@DaveEtchells]

Is this with PETG or PLA? Sounds encouraging…

[@OmegaGamingNetwork]

@@DaveEtchells I print with both and more rarely ABS. I haven't had trouble with any of them.

[@DaveEtchells]

@@OmegaGamingNetwork Thanks for the info!

[@elefantsnot]

Can you send the link for that one?😊

[@Evasive14]

That V3.3 wiper upgrade for the P1S is ABSOLUTELY MANDATORY. My asa would not get wiped off on the stock wiper, causing 3 failed prints until I figured out what was going on. Save yourself the time and install the wiper upgrade

[@Willdmo]

A big help for your "sticks to the nozzle" issue is the slice engineering plastic repellent paint. It needs to be applied regularly, but minimizes sticking a lot

[@davethetaswegian]

I have had good results with this as well. Much better to stop the filament sticking in the first place than to try and wipe it off afterwards.

[@Someguy5k]

I can second that this stuff works really well. I've heard from other places that people use some superlube PTFE oil as a cheaper substitute.

[@radish6691]

At $15 for 3ml and it has to be applied before each print? Hard pass.

[@davethetaswegian]

@@radish6691 No it doesn't need to be applied every print, not sure where you are getting that from. I have done many dozens of prints on a single application.

[@radish6691]

@davethetaswegian I got that information from Slice Engineering. Their reply to a review (dated 20 May 2024) on the product page on their website stated, “Hi, Ricky. Thank you for your review. I am sorry to hear that filament began sticking to the tip after one print. We recommend reapplying after each print to be sure that the PRP coating is ready to go at all times! Please remember to always apply to a clean nozzle as well.”

[@johnkarobonik2017]

Please continue to work this problem. You might want to test a few others options out there. Also, I found tuning the parameters for filament tends to help too. I think this was one of your best.

[@ethanchosdad-xh9ih]

I use a high temp silicone grease on my nozzle. Helps out quite a bit.

[@rockman1942]

can you share the name of grease for reference

[@kylek29]

I have a Biqu Jet and the silicone tube wiper V2 on my X1C, I had to add a silicone band to hold the front-hotend cover on (as you figured out). It helps with it occasionally being popped loose. As for the wiping G-code, another thing I've contemplated toying around with is adding logic to the slicer for it to run a "quick wipe" sequence every X-number of layers (e.g. every 10 layers) if PETG, that way it clears smaller bits.

[@bblz9171]

Sad no slicer has this option, did you figure it out?

[@tomohalloran5217]

I use that last design and it's been dramatically better than the stock wiper. I've super Glued mine down and haven't had an issue and I've been running it for about a year now

[@Big-Jo]

I had so many problems with the stock wiper for every single print i was there with tweezers toi clean it up before it started a print so i made a mix between "The Nozzle Wiper 3.2/3.3" by Maleko the "Better Wipe for Bambu Lab X1C, P1P, P1S" by Brenyo and "The Scrubber: Enhanced X1/P1 Nozzle Wiper" by Adam L with it's custom G code which mimics the A1 series back and forth wiping motion after final steel plate arc rub movement which results in a perfectly clean nozzle every single time

[@NuggetsInclusive]

offcourse solve it complety :D

[@TS_Mind_Swept]

Off course is crazy

[@skyrider4789]

What??

[@justinu1182]

On my P1S I’ve been a big fan of a model on MW called the Scrubbler. It uses the silicone waffle for cleaning, but also retains the original spring wiper offset to the left so that it still “cuts” and flings away the poop before going to wipe on the waffle. It also has an inset for the waffle and recommends CA glue for installation to keep it from being knocked loose. If you decide to check it out I’d take a look at the different remixes, because I remember some of them aren’t lidar compatible.

[@imacmill]

Hi, fellow P1S owner. Just got mine three days ago, and was hoping you could answer a question for me: Is the nozzle supposed to tap against the print bed during bed levelling? I thought LIDAR was supposed to be doing this. I don't see anything inside the enclosure that looks like a LIDAR unit, so I don't know what's going on. Also, I can't find any info at the Bambu site as to how this is all supposed to operate.

[@justinu1182]

@ lidar is an x1c exclusive feature, the p1s doesn’t have it. The p1s uses the nozzle taps and a load cell to map the bed for leveling, so yes, that’s totally normal

[@imacmill]

@@justinu1182 Thank you for this! Everywhere I looked told me my P1S had lidar, which flew in the face of what I was observing it do during bed levelling. And, I couldn't see a lidar unit anywhere inside the printer. Do you know if it's using the same nozzle 'tap' for calculating a z-offset? Sucks, if so, since I've seen taps happening when there's old filament stuck on the tip of the nozzle.

[@Fr4g4lot]

@@imacmill my X1C still uses the nozzle to probe a Z pattern on the bed first; then sweeps over the print area with the lidar again.

[@imacmill]

@@Fr4g4lot a Z pattern? Isn't the z-offset a single value, and the bed probe matrix data that adjusts for a non-flat bed?

[@alexsnave]

i found setting the flushing volumes higher makes the poop heavier thus causing it to drop in the chute much better. I know it may use a bit more filament but this is much better than a print failing half way because of a obstacle on the build plate

[@Neamands]

I've been using the wiper from "N302OO7" on Makerworld for roughly a year now and it works really well (also with PETG). It's basically a two-part design where you print a holder and a mold and then have to pour liquid 2k high-temp silicone yourself. The wiper itself has four "lips" and besides the occasional little bits I've not had a big poop on my build plate since I installed that wiper.

[@herpderp1662]

I use one that keeps the stock wiper in place AND uses the A1 wiper at the same time side by side. Ive actually never had a poopy bed. Though on occasion it sticks to the chute and the X1C gets constipated.

[@Barak50cal]

What's it called?

[@crashkg]

I used 4 ptfe tubes arranged in the square and the nozzle runs through them cleaning up the sides and the end of the nozzle. Works great.

[@braixeninfection6312]

I last night printed a brush holder. Takes a dremel brass brush to help clean the nozzle. Not yet sure if it works better. It does clear the build plate although barely. It’s so close lol. I’ve used a brass brush to clean the nozzle when heated. So I have hopes for this working. If it doesn’t do the tiny bits like you experienced

[@mmacchi]

I still use stock BBL nozzle on my P1S when printing petg but I’ve set the nozzle temperature to 270-275C and had a lot more success and less issues with blobs and sticking. Occasionally have small pieces of petg stick to the nozzle but I’ve now printed several large prints with no big blob build ups that I used to experience frequently before when I used the original recommended temperature settings. It can be a bit more drippy but I can deal with the stringiness more than the blobbiness. I did change the wiper to a similar design as the wiper v3.3, called the “silent nano hybrid nozzle wiper” by PeGaz on maker’s world that uses a design that looks like the stock wiper with the A1 wiper pad and it uses a lot less material. Haven’t had any poops on build plate and the pad hasn’t come off.

[@ILEFTCAPS0N]

There's one called the Devil Wipe (or Devil Wiper?) that works pretty well. Basically it uses a copper wire brush head in place of the stock ptfe tube, but filament can eventually build up on the brush. Personally, I took the ptfe tubing off the screw and wrapped a really thin strand of copper wire around said screw and that's been amazing. It's been working for TPU, PLA, PETG and ASA.

[@glennfelpel9785]

I would certainly like to see your thinking on a better wiper. Lately I have been gravitating to PETG-HF and like you say stringing is an issue. And quite a bit of misplaced poop just as you say. It seems like there just must be a simple / effective solution, and as I said I would like to see what you could think up. Thanks for the video!!!

[@kasaundraleitch6292]

If you set the printing type to by object instead of by layer you can print multiple of these tests at once without the need to clean and reset the buildplate/print.

[@janienwright3895]

Omg thank you for tackling this. On my P1P this has been bugging me for years now and I only print with PETG. Especially that the calibration and bed leveling always cause the petg to ooze a bit and the priming srip doesn't always catch that so the first layer has a piece of oozing a t a random spot.. Very annoying

[@dleivam]

Good timing! I printed the Nozzle Wiper 3.3 last week, but I haven't installed it yet

[@PeterDrage]

It would be great to see your own take on it, I have yet to find a solution that is anything but a marginal improvement over the stock solution on the P1S.

[@jthomeo]

Great video, as usual. This is one of my complaints about my P1S, and I wish we had a better cleaning solution. I would love to see what new ideas you can bring to the table. Tks for the grat content.

[@easyluckable]

I’m using the big silicone tube wiper and oil with PFTE from Super Lube, it works really good. I rarely need to wipe the nozzle with brass brush. Oil with PFTE is essentially the same thing as the Slice Engineering paint, but much cheaper. Maybe I will try v3.3 again, I had a bit problem with it before where after a while the double size tape is falling and the nozzle just drag the silicone off.

[@Bricksniper]

I've been using the Ultimate Nozzle Wiper V1 with no problems for months. It's great. The problem is, I have so much extra silicone tube I don't know what to do with, just like you mentioned with the V2.

[@missile1506]

I use the third one you tired but super glued the A1 silicon part to the printed wiper and it works great.

[@lepreseanaz]

I believe there's also an option that retains the factory wiper while adding the a1 style, I wonder if that impacts the debris issue. Also, if all else fails trianglelabs does make an 'anti stick' sort of paint/nail polish that seems to work.

[@reyalPRON]

im working on a dual/single roller and a 3x4 a1 mini pad that is showing potential. its all with the stock gcode so i dont have to mess with that stuff ;) i got a lot time these days so i can sit and watch it. will update you when its more reliable, currently 3 poops of 155 changes. i print the roller from pp and reinforce it slightly so the roller does not bend to one side for the shape. also placing the roller about one rollers width to the left is looking like the way to go using two "stockish" rollers and cutting out the 3x4 entirely as it gets backed up with fine hairs or blobs that go back onto the nozzle on the final exit from the wiping.

[@PrintsAndPlanks]

I've only been printing with PLA and PETG with The Nozzle Wiper V3.2. It's been working well enough. The purged filament hasn't gotten onto the bed often, but since the wiper lacks the spring mechanism, left over filament hangs off the edge of the wiper. I think if I printed a model with many filament changes, I'd eventually see purged filament on the print bed. I've tried variations of the Scrubbler, since I have an X1C and rely on the first layer scanning, but those deteriorated the A1 wiper pad quickly and was pretty noisy. I'm interested in trying out the Silent Nano Hybrid Nozzle Wiper, which is basically the original wiper, but uses an A1 wiper pad instead of a PTFE tube, and the Bambu X1C Filament Wiper Dual Rollers, which has 1 PTFE and 1 silicone tube. That said, I'm interested in seeing how you'd solve the problem.

[@Ahmed-Ali]

The only one that worked for me was the one where you insert a piece of silicon. I modified it a bit to have a wider and deeper place for the silicone piece. Then instead of putting the recommended silicon, I cut a piece from my soldering silicone mat (this beats everything else I tried), glued it in the printed model and since then I didn't have any issue with PETG sticking to the nozzle. They do stick to the side of the wiper at times, but they fall off when they accumulate.

[@andyspoo2]

You should try using BondTech's Plastic repellent paint on your nozzles to stop filament sticking to it.

[@Pace_Of_Snell]

i noticed that they cut away by hand some of the sock for the obxidian nozzle

[@ryanencinas4253]

I wonder if the plastic repellant from slice engineering would help with the stock wiper....I run into the "goober" issue myself on my p1s.

[@mykola-drabiv]

Good overview, I saw the last model in few different groups but didn't reied it yet myself so was good to see how it performed and what can be achieved with alternative solutions. Off course if you able crete better design it will be awesome.

[@Duraltia]

Slice Engineering has a Plastic Repellent Paint you can coat your Nozzle with that may solve the sticking Problem - I couldn't find any information if it is supposed to work with PETG but someone on their Reviews mentioned it working with Bambu Lab PETG Basic soo?

[@DaveEtchells]

I was about to ask about this. I bought some of it by have never used it, since I don’t have a problem with PLA. I’d like to use PETG though, so maybe I’ll try it. I’d really like to see this channel test it with PETG!

[@TheTsunamijuan]

Few suggestions, PTFE paint from Slice engineering(highly recommend for petg), and add some super glue to the bottom of the silicoln pads from the a1 wiper. I have had the adhesive fail on every single one of my printers. After about 300 hours of printing.

[@trentlk]

Clean the nozzle and sock and about every 3rd print spray some silicone penetrating lubricant on a paper towel and rub it on the nozzle and sock. Works for my PETG prints.

[@DrZylvon]

very useful as I was just about to print one of these. I had decided for the one you picked. Thanks !

[@girrrrrrr2]

I wonder if something like a binary splitter could help, the movement kinda making the brush scrub rhe nozzle slightly

[@caseypries7559]

I'm using the 3.3 wiper and having pretty good luck with all filaments but not perfect. I use the stock nozzles and didn't seem to have the petg sticking to it nearly as bad as you are. I'm primarily using elegoo petg filament.

[@begna112]

Slice engineering' anti plastic paint and an occasional brass brush helps a ton for maintenance of the nozzle. I also had perfect results with The Wiper 3.3 with a panda revo nozzle and panda jet and petg, but my print came out way cleaner than yours, did you use the PLA supports version? Made the surface for the A1 wiper pad much cleaner and adhere better.

[@n00blike]

Have you tried Slice Engineering's Plastic Repellent Paint? I use it on my MK3S+ and it helps keep the nozzle clean even with PETG.

[@hotfix7387]

I'm confused. You reviewed 3 wipers in the video, only included 2 links the description, and both of those links got the same "Ultimate Nozzle Wiper V2 for X1C P1S P1" model. I think you need to update the link for Maleko to point to "The Nozzle Wiper V3.3 - X/P Series" at a minimum, but I am curious where the 3rd one is located.

[@PutTheKettleOnGromit]

I would recommend using a brass bristle brush to clean the nozzle.

[@omerozbekoff]

using the v2 since 4 months, great one,

[@peaceorpieces8343]

Have you used the plastic repellent paint on liquid before?

[@michaelbraaten]

I printed out another wiper using a small piece of the A1 wiper, I don’t know if it actually works, so I’ve printed out the Wiper V3.2 in ABS (for my P1S), but I haven’t had a chance to install it since I’ve been printing Christmas presents lol… I might as well print out 3.3 before I install it lol

[@seanmcne]

I just bought and x1c from an MK3s+ with a diamond back nozzle which had zero tendency to stick even with PETG. I literally tried the same models you did this past week and had near identical results. The over engineered one worked best for me so far but I have high hopes for a stock wiper plus brash brush and am going to try that in the next week or two. If you find something better I’d love to know - will let you know if I find anything better! Thanks for the video!

[@marcusst8809]

That's interesting. I have an Anycubic and MK4. The Anycubic was not so good with PETG. Lots of stringing and blobs. Temperature was not stable enough I thought. On the MK4, I have zero stringing. PETG prints just like PLA. No stringing, no oozing, no blobs... Do you think it is because of the nozzle? Do you know if there is some coating around the Prusa (or E3D) nozzles?

[@seanmcne]

@@marcusst8809 - My MK3S+ is great and w/ the diamondback nozzle it's even better (at least as far as blobs and stringing goes). My x1 carbon is amazing with PLA but PETG (not much stringing) but I get blobs on the nozzle like crazy. I'm considering just going to the Diamondback nozzle but it's nearly $200 USD which feels a little too pricey at this point. I'm going to try an OEM + brass brush design and I'm hopefully that will do a better job of cleaning the bambu nozzle in a slightly less aggressive way. Today I use the over-engineered PTFE and it works well but it really rubs pretty hard and I worry about long term usage.

[@AndrewAHayes]

I have made one with the slicone tubing but much smaller tubing, it works OK! but I found the A1 wiper conversion the better option.

[@benjaminway5699]

How do you like that build plate? Are you using a lower bed temperature?

[@TinTalon]

This is a cool video series and can’t wait to see the winning design.

[@iSuat]

I am regularly print PET-G I am using a remix of last model(a1silicon) with stock ptfe tube. I think it is the most successful

[@reflexgaming342]

Could you help root my Creality K1? I followed your guide step-by-step and did all the installation, but I cannot remotely access it the way you did. I tried typing the ip address followed by 4409, but nothing happens. And if i just do the ip it gives me the basic creality print UI. I also cant figure out what my device UI is (for connecting to OrcaSlicer) as it doesn't show anywhere. Could you please help?

[@lawlawlo]

Typo in the video title.

[@lazyman1011]

Would be nice to see your solution.

[@darkalleywaystudio3975]

Personally, most of these nozzle wipers do work way better than OEM. However, they are not perfect. I find with the A1 nozzle wiper in combination with the OEM scraper work well but fails at times. The ultimate nozzle will be next to try. There is also a modification of that model that uses the PTFE tube and OEM wiper as well.

[@eliokreier522]

Slice engineering has a ptfe coating for nozzles. This should prevent the filament from sticking. Unfortunately it's not very accessible in Europe so i don't know how good it really is.

[@saintjohnny45]

superlube is another oil with ptfe in it and people here in the comments seemed to have success with it.

[@DARKredDOLLAR]

At work I have 4 x1c in my competence and like every second print won't start because the poop gets launched into the leadscrew. Kinda annoying when you have to print alot and fast.

[@chris993361]

I would like to see it solved even if it requires a g code change as this has been frustrating for me and I tend to avoid PETG over it. I currently use one someone made that uses a piece of silicone mat that has helped but it hasn't been enough

[@dennish9543]

I would love to see your own solution. I have faith!

[@meanman6992]

There’s a big difference in drying your filament in a joke of a residential or whatever eSun type dryer and a custom dryer that can actually reach properly high temps and then feed the filament from the dryer to the printer. Soooo did you REALLY dry the filament well or just sorta dry it a little?

[@vit.budina]

I'm curious if the Slice Engineering plasticrepellentt paint would help mitigate this issue with no upgrades needed for the wiper.

[@begna112]

I've had a lot of success with the anti plastic paint. Still need to brush it a little after every couple prints and reapply the paint like once a month. A better wiper tho is still a good idea for actual success detaching it from the nozzle hole.

[@UNgineering]

what about using a thin strip of brass metal? not a brush per se (it'll get clogged).

[@joell439]

I would appreciate if you could attempt a new design using the A1 wiper as the functional component. 👍😎👍

[@zenvent]

can you try silicone or some other material than ptfe on the original design?

[@redkeyinuse4754]

What benefits are there to PETG for the HueForge?

[@AJcore]

Definitely think your nozzle is creating more of a mess in these tests. The last wiper with a stock nozzle works great. You need a new wiper custom made for that nozzle.

[@Jim-tn3vq]

Anyone considered having a small vacuum cleaner tube below the wiper? You can catch it in a small filter drum outside the printer. Just a thought.

[@niftyorca]

Just make an adapter for the A1 silicone wiper pad, it has worked great for me.

[@tombo7719]

The third option and another that uses the stock wiper strip, it will start to break that strip up if it stays on, which is the biggest problem. There are silicone molds versions out there where you must mix a 2 part silicone and then attach to a print, I bought the silicone and one of these days plan on doing this. This is really one of the worst aspects of this printer I have found also.

[@gavintownsend6125]

how'd u get petg to stick to that plate, i have the pro one and its not sticking very well , pla on the other hand sticks like a mofo \

[@NecromancerGarage]

I use the Ultimate Nozzle V2 on my P1S farm that exclusively uses PETG. It's much much more reliable than the factory setup. I don't have nearly as much of a mess and sticking as you do. Possibly the material? I use Voxel exclusively, maybe it doesn't stick to the nozzle as bad?

[@PneumaTheBrain]

+1 for follow-up. Thank you for these videos.

[@klumos]

The last wiper literally says use CA glue to make that stick. I use it in my P1S no issues.

[@kamiegarczynski8426]

Plastic Repellent Paint from Slice Engineering it's supposed to keep plastic from getting stuck on the printhead

[@TheDoctorRust]

Yes please try to fix it. As this gets increasingly frustrating

[@alannguyen5050]

Have you tried Slice Engineering Plastic repellant paint? It's what I saw recommended by another youtuber for petg sticking and has been amazing on my K1C.

[@ThantiK]

Yeah the ratings they can!

[@WillPower311]

I would like to see your take on it

[@mikeydk]

I am also using the silicone tube one, and also got some of the small bits as you do, but they are not thrown as far around as yours. If you got more tube (wink wink), try cutting a bit off so the silicone gets less force to throw the small pieces around.

[@nagi603]

There is also a version for the V3 that also incorporates the original wiper. But do try to come up with a better one.

[@Roobotics]

Why wouldn't you want to use one of the anti-stick nozzle coatings instead? That surface finish/material just seems to be an absolute PETG magnet. If it touches it, it's just going to stick, then bake itself on. It needs to not want to stick in the first place. Because it sticks on the 'lip' of the nozzle, and as it exits any of the the cleaners it just yanks the purged filaments back out as it leaves. Also modifying the g-code is way less invasive than making new parts for the machine (not as entertaining though) but I've poured though some of their gcode for my A1, some of the ways they do things are weird and kinda lazy, I've happily modded them once I was sure I had a grasp on what might go wrong, disabling the vibe compensation shakes but keeping the vibe compensation enabled, as well as fixing how the head parks half-way inside the wiper system, making it absurdly annoying to clean between prints and causing oozed filament to agressively hang-up at the start of each new print.

[@imhavoc]

Is like to see you test Slice Engineering plastic repellant paint.

[@TJbuffs]

It’s works, If you want to reapply every time.

[@MrWolfFenrir]

Weird idea of using ptfe tube as wiper: they melt just above 250c and create pretty nasty fumes

[@saintjohnny45]

pretty nasty is a weird term for carcinogenic and corrosive

[@MrExo_3D]

havent had any luck with these

[@heroflying]

Solve it! Solve it!!!

[@DavidPelkey]

Cohesion....petg isn't adhesive.... that's the problem. I can't stand having to print petg with supports. Just asking to break the model

[@5stevea]

Go for it would be good to have the issue solved

[@DrDoohickie]

I was with you until you said Lucky Charms. Frosted Flakes Forever. 😂

[@sethjohnson7318]

Let’s see what u got. Get er done

[@Amybnuy]

We need a doot changer >;3

[@nakleh]

And you're definitely better off supergluing the A1 wiper to the Makelo

[@TS_Mind_Swept]

Pity that bambu didn't do a better job with this, since they seem to have done fairly well with everything else 🤷🏿‍♀️

[@carvinbas]

Please come up with your own solution! Let’s see what you got!

[@roobtoob2]

I found that the 3.2 works well. I'm using an X1C with the stock hardened .4 nozzle and the stock silicone boot installed. I found a video by another KZbinr (this one - kzbin.info/www/bejne/e3eTf6GvrLyYgNk and I also found this one - kzbin.info/www/bejne/eYCQfahmmdR5fKs helpful.). He described printing the model out of PETG and using PLA as a surface support filament. When the print was complete, the PETG part of the support stayed adhered to the build plate (Textured PEI plate) and that was OK (and expected). On the model where the A1 wiper gets attached, a single layer of PLA remained on the platform where the A1 wiper goes, and I was able to easily remove that using the corner of a small razor blade. I printed the model in black PETG and used white PLA for the support, so it was very easy to see. The tip of an Exacto knife would be perfect for the task of removing that piece of PLA. The resulting platform surface was nice and smooth, and using just the adhesive that came on the A1 wiper has kept mine in place so far. It's not absolutely perfect, as sometimes a strand of poop will get lodged in between the little "teeth" on the A1 wiping surface, but that will get knocked loose into the chute after the next wipe or two. It's been "so far so good" for me with that setup. I've had absolutely no poop on the build plate, and it's kept the nozzle clean. This is what works for me right now - I hope this helps.

[@skl7311]

v1 plus the stock works better of the UWP