Remove the Elephant's Foot from Resin 3D Prints - Plus NEW FREE Bulge Buster App

IMPORTANT UPDATE - Bulge Buster is no longer supported. The app was a proof of concept and not long after it was release the functionality was added to Chitubox. Look for a setting called tolerance compensation.
The Elephant's foot can ruin your 3d resin prints when you print right on the build plate. In this video I discuss 3 methods for removing the elephant's foot bulge and show you how to use an app I made called Bulge Buster to process 3d print files and remove it. However as I said the app is no longer supported.
The shirt I'm wearing in this video is not my own slogan but is from the Screen Rant Pitch Meeting videos featuring Ryan George. We find them pretty funny - check them out. No connection to this channel. I'm just a fan.
My hat - well if you know it put it in the comments. It's custom made and not for sale unfortunately.
To support this channel please use these amazon affiliate links below. Here are some of my normal supplies:
The food trays that I put in front of my printer to catch parts on. These are ridgid and therefore a little better at holding liquid and spills than the ones in my resin handling video: amzn.to/3lo3bQK
The rubber mats as seen in the resin handling video- amzn.to/3pmhfws
Metal Funnels - amzn.to/39ZU56y
IPA - amzn.to/2T0uFzS
Spray Bottles - amzn.to/2T2q7t2
Nitrile Gloves - amzn.to/2Tm6T0c
My Mask - amzn.to/3cgvWL5
Tea Strainer for Recycling IPA - amzn.to/3c7ZJFr
And this is my favorite resin: amzn.to/3kln4qe

[@ayalde]

Wow, That is some serious effort you did! Not only with the app develpment and testing etc, but also in the making of the video. I love that you show renders of how the resin printer works for example, and also the very detailed explanations, all acompanied with footage. Seriously a testament to patience and discipline! Well done and thank you.

[@Nerdtronic]

Thank you very much! Check out my video on Why Resin Prints Fail which has more animations and explanations.

[@landisrumble4609]

It was impossible to love a stranger. Then I watched this video. The level of information given was FANTASTIC!!!

[@peterteal880]

Thanks for all of your hard work. I'm sure that many resin printer users will find this tool invaluable.

[@Nerdtronic]

I hope so!

[@nathanb62]

I like that you don't rush projects and how thorough you are. SUBBED.

[@Hooverdreng]

This is great! I also see this as something that will or should be standard in slicers. Absolutely brilliant. On of those things that seems obvious once it has been invented. I am looking forward to using it. You earned my subscription long ago, but it now comes with my admiration along side!

[@Krrrrrrk]

Crazy! Thank you for putting in so much time creating this solution!

[@Nerdtronic]

You bet!

[@donwoolf]

Oh my! What a quaity of life improvement. KZbin, where did this video hide so long?! Will try out right now... Keep up the good work!

[@kelbertlima1192]

Amazing work! Congratulations! You are helping much more people than you can imagine. Nice to see smart improvements in this technology.

[@Rocknoob49]

as a newbie diving into resin printing, finding your channel has been a godsent. the production value is great, the script straightforward and professional. And at the same time you seem like a great guy who just enjoys what he does. I am adopting your safety workflow, upgrading my printstation and now I can't wait to also experiment with printing straight on the plate.

[@Nerdtronic]

Cool! Good luck.

[@reprinted3D]

I am absolutely blown away by this! The work you've put into this is stunning, and your presentation is excellent. I used to code clients server applications, so I appreciate what you've done here. So glad I've subscribed to your channel!

[@Nerdtronic]

Wow thanks!

[@Conracardenas]

- No doubt you made a great effort doing this video, and then you top it up with the app; a million respect for you, sir. I resolve this issue of the Elephant's Foot by giving a 45-degree chamfer to the edge of the part, a chamfer slightly bigger than the resulting total height of the bottom exposure base. You did an excellent job!

[@yakovlevlt]

That is incredible amount of research you made for this video, and all your videos explain perfectly hiw things work on a deeper level. Best 3D printing channel out there, thank you so much for you work!

[@Nerdtronic]

Wow, thank you!

[@les0932]

Thank you! Alot of hard work went into this. I can see this becoming a popular app!

[@ecmo1226]

Fantastic work, sir! You have some of the best content and one of the most effective presentation styles on KZbin. It's clear that you put a lot of work into each video and I look forward to where you'll take this channel.

[@Nerdtronic]

Thanks. I hope to take it towards doing more project oriented videos. Build some cool stuff.

[@magoobtoys]

I thought I understood enough about FDM and SLA printing until I saw your videos. The visualizations that you use are probably the easiest to understand that I've come across. Thank you!

[@Nerdtronic]

Great to hear! Thanks!

[@mallus1001]

Thank you ❤️This is pretty amazing work, you just became one of my heroes. Love that you did both windows and Mac versions.

[@Nerdtronic]

Thanks.. and Linux 64 bit

[@rshahid93]

This channel is so under rated! Subscribed!

[@SilverScreamX]

2k likes? should be more like 200,000... we do know how much effort it took, because comes from passion! keep doing what u do, we love it.

[@ahmedalshaheen4432]

Wow this project is so valuable and you helped the whole community with this app, excellent job

[@Nerdtronic]

Thanks

[@PandorasFolly]

I do development work and I can appreciate just how much effort you put into this app. Especially when combined with the very technical nature of what it's trying to accomplish and frankly the experimental nature getting rid of the elephants foot bulge. Just amazing work. Simply amazing. Thank you for all your efforts

[@Nerdtronic]

Thanks. Yeah it took more work than I hoped or expected.

[@typebin]

thank you for your tons of effort into this and especially supports for the mac users!

[@dennisdohogne4747]

As always your videos are VERY well done! Clear and helpful, but most of all you explain your logic and the testing of your theories. This helps us to understand rather than just "take someone else's word for it". By the way, I agree with your daughter - something dimmed 10% is 90% of its original brightness. I have shared links to so many of your videos, probably the most has been Calibrating Your Resin 3d Printer. This will be high on the list! BRAVO and THANK YOU!!

[@Nerdtronic]

Thank you very much!

[@Skoose]

Kudos to you. You obviously spent a good bit of time, sweat equity and intelligence into this presentation and the APP. This graphics and animations are very understandable and it helps to see how you drew your conclusions. I am new to Resin printing but not to 3D printing. I am confident this app will have a place in my work. Thank you

[@Nerdtronic]

Welcome!

[@ryanleslie7425]

The timing of this video couldn't be better, thanks for all your efforts! Photon Mono X is arriving today, and I'll predominantly be printing functional mechanical parts.

[@Nerdtronic]

It’s possible that printer needs a .pws or .photons file (with an s) in which case it won’t work yet.

[@ryanleslie7425]

@@Nerdtronic I'm absolutely new to resin printing, but technically minded. If you need help in any way testing this or porting this to the newer version anycubic machines let me know and I'll try and help out.

[@jasperjanderson]

Very interesting stuff. Thanks for walking us through your process. I'm looking forward to giving this a try.

[@Nerdtronic]

Hope you enjoy it!

[@Jonas_Fox]

You're a madman and a genius, in the best possible way! I just want to be able to make simple miniature bases printed straight to the bed without distortion and without too much elephant footing. I look forward to trying some of this science on my bases. Thanks for all you do Nerdtronic, you're the man!

[@marcthibodeaux6710]

I was looking at this video for this exact reason. Have you had any success with printing miniatures directly on the plate without an elephants foot?

[@marcbodewes1066]

Thank you for all your effort and experiments. I will give this a try.

[@Nerdtronic]

Best of luck!

[@stingray4567]

This is AWESOME! Selective dimming is a really elegant solution to this problem.

[@Nerdtronic]

Thanks!

[@baccustomjewellery-498]

Amazing!! Clever ideas and a lot of hard work. Cant wait to use them on my projects.

[@jillmack8886]

Thank you for all your hard work!

[@robertflinch2447]

This is just what I needed. Saved me so much grinding g

[@chriskind]

Thank you for sharing your hard work with us! I can't wait to try this.

[@markferrick10]

This is terrific. I am just getting my first resin printer and I am looking forward to using your tool. Thank you.

[@Nerdtronic]

The tool isn't currently being updated and there are now issues with loading files since Chitubox locked up their file format. There are new ways to do it in Chitubox. Not exactly the same but will still work.

[@Aaron.Reichert]

extreemly interesting and relevant to what I have been trying to do.

[@leisureshoot]

This is amazing innovation. Let's hope this catches on throughout the industry. Let's hope you get some reward for trailblazing.

[@bobbytwoshoe8851]

This is invaluable advice and knowledge, thank you for sharing it.

[@MiniaturePlayer]

nice work, been doing that already. You make it much more clear on so many points, good work.

[@Nerdtronic]

Cool, thanks

[@davidriggle7825]

Excellent, this will save me a lot work sanding off the foot on timing pulleys. I use my printer for functional functional prints and I tend to use the lowest possible exposure to get the tolerances as tight as possible and I get the best results when I print directly on the build plate. One disadvantage though, is the limited bridging distance. Have you ever thought about trying to improve bridging distance by increasing the exposure time on layers with an abrupt transition? It seems like your software allows you the ability to contract and over-expose arbitrary layers in the print which could enable stronger overhangs. Keep up the good work!

[@r00yce]

Kudos to your explanations and efforts!

[@Nerdtronic]

Thanks

[@The1Verse]

Absolutely incredible, I have been struggling to fix the bulge on gears I am printing for a puzzle box. I appreciate all the work you put into this, very very well done :) Also, Fred Johnson would commend you for your hat :)

[@Rsslbaker1]

Amazing work! your channel is a lifesaver

[@Nerdtronic]

Happy to help!

[@ethansdad3d]

This is brilliant, and I look forward to trying it!

[@frankmxparts]

Amazing work, thanks for putting the effort into this. Will be trying this on the Saturn soon.

[@Nerdtronic]

Good luck!

[@dickmorris6310]

Very interesting and good explanation of the technical issues. Thanks.

[@Nerdtronic]

You are welcome!

[@anibalgonzalez7990]

I love the pedagogic scientific approach to explaining and testing. The tshirt is hilarious btw.

[@Nerdtronic]

Thanks. The shirt is from another youtuber's channel. Ryan George.

[@rickywong5551]

Amazing work. I don't sub often but you've earned it!

[@Nerdtronic]

Wow, thanks!

[@Markovian_]

Shirts from other youtubers is TIGHT!

[@Mr1FTW]

Well ok then! ;)

[@jarrajoseph-mcgrath9142]

Came back from the future to say when it’s time for the wash that shirts gonna need to get aaalllllll the way off of his back!

[@ryanturner3234]

Just discovering your channel. You are evidently a very clever person! Fantastic.

[@Nerdtronic]

Oh thank you!

[@wilkomirwilk110]

Thanks mate! Awsome work :)

[@Nerdtronic]

Glad you liked it!

[@cavision]

Thank you for all your work. Very cool.

[@happyfarang]

Very cool. Thank you for this and the effort you put in. I print a lot directly on the build plate so this is really good news for me :) You got a sub from me for sure

[@stvcolwill]

What can I say, Michael? Except that you make me wanna be a better 3-D print Hobbyist. I tip my entire hat collection to you sir!Great job

[@Nerdtronic]

I wanted to wear a different hat on each video but I don't think I'd have enough room to store the hats. At least if I make all the videos I want to make. (life goals)

[@nicknewhousemusic]

this is so incredibly thorough thank you so much!!

[@Nerdtronic]

Welcome

[@lijath]

I know a comment doesn't mean that much but I want to thank you for not just making a video but also making a meaningful contribution to the 3D printing community

[@freshmanfrenchman1]

Amazing video, super thorough. I might add however, that when printing small parts that do not need overexposure, there is another technique i just tested. Step 1 lower the number of bottom layers slightly and bring exposure down as well. Step 2 when designing the part add a champfer on all edges that will touch the buildplate. Step 3 tweak the values of all 3 changes until the elephants foot fills in the champfer. Then if still an issues try the pixel dimming above.

[@kimnielsen9320]

Just like we do on a FDM printer , except for the pixel dimming :-D

[@danieleschemann5446]

This is fantastic! Would be so nice to see this integrated as optional settings directly in ChituBox.

[@sanctusletum8522]

You sir, are a treasure to the printing community. As a new maker I have learned so much from your content, which is clear, concise, and interestingly presented. Then to top it off you come out with something like this which is going to be literally a game changer for sp many people. Thank you. Seriously thank you for chosing to be an educator for this community.

[@Nerdtronic]

Wow, thank you!

[@wilfdarr]

No hyperbole! I love how he says "this project took me longer than I expected" I would expect it to take me ... Well I wouldn't even know where to start so literally forever? Dude is amazing.

[@voltage3d469]

Awesome work man

[@Nerdtronic]

Thanks a ton!

[@mrburns366]

This is really cool! I think many of these methods are better than the compensation in Chitubox! The double exposure thing could be added with a firmware update if companies like anycubic would do it

[@DavidMVFX]

This is a great video. Thank you so much, will try it right away.

[@Nerdtronic]

Have fun!

[@JohnWick-dn6ty]

Best technical about elephant foot ever !!!!

[@user-eg8li6no4u]

THX! Great explaning ))

[@archangeloliver]

This is absolutely something that needs to be integrated into chitubox and other slicers. Brilliant way of reducing the elephant's foot!

[@Nerdtronic]

I assumed that they'd borrow the idea and put it in there, but I'm not sure they're going to. They have similar features but not exactly this. To really replice the functionality of the BB app you also need to print the test chips so you can find the best reduction for your resin.

[@Olechristianfoto]

This is amazing! 👏👏 Thanks!

[@Nerdtronic]

Thanks!

[@dalel.d.9678]

Doing an incredible job! looking forward to a photons addition.

[@Nerdtronic]

Hopefully I can add that. Can't promise when yet.

[@JohnJones-oy3md]

Golden content, as usual.

[@Nerdtronic]

Thanks.

[@ricklynch]

Well done! Very clever approach(s)! I think the double exposure would be the most accurate. Ironically, I have Herringbone Gears to accurately print! When I saw this, I was quite impressed! 👍👍👍

[@Nerdtronic]

Thanks! In my experience actually the pixel dimming works the best.

[@rebeltaz123]

I was just looking for a way to reduce or eliminate elephants foot on my Mars 2. Thank you so much for this. And a linux version, even! Cannot wait to try this out.

[@jaredjones6570]

Try out the tolerance compensation features that are now built into the newest version of Chitubox (1.8.1). I'm going to test nerdtronic's app and the tolerance compensation features in Chitubox on my mars 2 and see how they compare in terms of convenience and functionality.

[@rebeltaz123]

@@jaredjones6570 Thank you. I am new to all of this resin printing. I'll give that a try.

[@vesslades]

Impressive work! You just got a new subscriber :)

[@Nerdtronic]

Awesome, thank you!

[@zedwizz]

Great work my friend. I was having trouble printing small letters and they would always end up with this elephants foot but not now!! I have used this on my Elegoo Mars 2 :)

[@Nerdtronic]

Oh glad it worked. There is also a function inside chitubox now that does it. For when my app stops working, which it will as soon as you upgrade to the latest chitubox. :(

[@anycost]

This is such a fantastic initiative; explaining the issue, different approaches to combat it and then, the cherry on top, an application to assist us in combatting exactly that! What more could we ask for? Massive kudos! (Except for this little itty bitty thing, that might be user error, but I just can't get to work; I downloaded the latest version, got it running without issues. Dragged a cbddlp on it, loads just fine. Chose "Method: Pixel Dimming" and made a few adjustments. Exported the result to a new file (it still ends with cbddlp, cause I only have a Mars, so the PHZ-format won't work) Dragged the newly exported busted cbddlp file in, loaded just fine. Clicked "Unpack Images", and I can see the PNG:s just fine Here's the issue: No matter how I adjust the settings in Bulge Buster, for Pixel Dimming, the only results that are applying is the Contract Radius (and Bust Layers). The Dimming% does not apply, there are no grays in the resulting images, as you show in your video. Halp!) Extra question: Is there anywhere we would be able to discuss this (or other Nerdtronic related topics) other than KZbin comments? I couldn't really find anything pointed out anywhere.

[@keeganpenney169]

I like your Ryan George pitch meeting shirt

[@jaredtangeman9669]

Thank you for working so hard at this problem. I am just starting out and gathering information and your videos have been extremely well done in a way that helps me absorb the information I'm trying to understand very thoroughly and in a way that fills in the tactile, practical, and conceptual details. I ordered the 4k Photon and I'm waiting for it to ship. You worked out a really great solution to this problem! I'm in the process of wrapping my brain around how printing and curing and light intensity all intertwine. Have you considered that the only time this is an issue is when the build plate is so close to the LCD that the light halo from the open pixels able to reflect diffused light back down at the intensity required to cure the resin? The light from underneath is not coming through at a specific angle, but the intensity of the halo is lower because the light source is farther away. If you have your intensity set properly, there isn't enough light to even partially activate the surrounding resin through the rest of the build, otherwise you would have a bunch of floaters. I am thinking it needs a certain intensity of light to start the activation, in addition to a certain exposure time to fully cure the layer before moving to the next layer. This would mean to me that the majority of the elephant foot is formed from light coming in directly perpendicular to the pixel. The fact that as the foot shrinks as the first layers build seem to confirm this hypothesis as the intensity of the reflecting light would reduce with each layer as it's absorbed by the cured resin. I'm curious to know if the problem is reduced by using an anodized black build plate or a matte black magnet mat like I use on my FDM printer. It may be as simple as adding a matte black adhesive vinyl over the build plate. I have some and I will try it out as one of my first experiments when my printer gets here. P.S. you're dimming the light intensity, not the pixel. A fully blacked out lcd TV display would be 100% dim, lol.

[@axiiio]

One word... Awesome!

[@alexandersherrod5196]

Truly Brilliant

[@giannimariani9744]

Nice work.

[@ZeleBVoBVA]

Great job, thank you!

[@Nerdtronic]

Thank you too!

[@Tinetikon]

Genius genius genius. Amasing u solve big problem :))) Thankss

[@AFV85]

On these larger printers the UV intensity is alway default to 100% it can have a massive effect of over exposure trying to dial in your exposure settings! Even dropping it to 90% makes a massive difference in getting that exposure dialed in! We follow a couple of professionals and trying out some of their findings over a few of our printers the light intensity works great on the elegoo printers and uniformation and Of course Phrozens printers as these seem to have a super stong UV light that needs dropped to around 80% light intensity

[@Filiaris1]

This is amazing!

[@Filiaris1]

Ps: I love your shirt! But I need you to get off my back

[@watsonstudios]

Very Nice. In Chitubox, you can also use the "bottom tolerance" setting in the advanced section to shrink the overall outline of just the bottom layers to compensate for the elephants foot.

[@Nerdtronic]

Thanks for the info! Chitubox can't print the bottom reduction test so you can see how many pixels to reduce. I sort of think that's a key part of the calibration. It also doesn't have the pixel dimming method. Still, glad they are starting to put this functionality right in the software. I wonder where they got the idea? 🤔 Bulge Buster was more of a proof of concept. I'd be fine with it just being part of the slicer.

[@TheDomis4]

I just figured out Lychee could also do this in the Resin Configuration -> Compensation -> Burn in Layers -> px

[@GantryG]

Awesome, thanks! 😀

[@TheBigdawg441]

I feel like this has great potential for industrial applications

[@asafkatan9974]

This is terrific!

[@Nerdtronic]

Thanks

[@ScorgeRudess]

This guy is incredible

[@VnTCliffy]

Really appreciate the depth on this topic that only a true nerd would delve to (said with pride, as a fellow nerd and rabbit hole diver). The app is amazing! Even though I couldn't see how it would work with my Photon. Your work, and description of the problem (awesome graphics!) inspired me in two ways. First, that printing on the base isn't a sin; it actually might be preferable for parts that really need a flat base (like most of mine). Second, that there might be a way to counteract the bulge, and save all that knifing and filing and sanding (I just thought I'd have to live with that, as an artifact of the process). So, inspired by your work, I did something that wouldn't have occurred to me otherwise. I measured the height of the bulge, and put in a chamfered edge of that height (45 degrees), across the entire bottom surface of the source model. STL'd it out, C'boxed it using no supports, printed it out. And the bulge is almost entirely gone! With a perfect base! My hat's off to you Michael, great job!

[@Nerdtronic]

Awesome! That's great to hear. I assume you have a newer Photon? I hope to add support for .pws files and .photons files early next year.

[@VnTCliffy]

Yes, the Photon S (.photons file) and Mono X (.pwmx file). Thanks!!

[@toregresdal]

I hope you make a video about the filmscanner, it sounds super interesting. Also, I don’t know your position on sharing but I’d be inclined to buy models or plans for such a scanner if it works well.

[@enzof430]

You are a GENIUS!!!!!!!!

[@user-yk4jc2ez5d]

I also think the rough & reflective build plate will disperse the UV light to surround resin near bottom layers, causing elephant foot aswell. great video!

[@user-yk4jc2ez5d]

And due to the reflective of the build plate, i think the bottom layer resin tend to receive higher UV intensity, because the UV light will come through the resin to the build plate, and reflected by the build plate, and expose the resin again.

[@Frankienoname0]

Yes, this is true, I've noticed this more when I started using my reflective Flex Plate, and even more when using translucent resin.

[@LeifHedstrom]

This is pretty amazing work, thank you! Also love that you produce both Windows and Mac versions (I'm a Mac person myself, and often we get left out :-). And, your daughter is right.

[@Nerdtronic]

There's also linux but I don't have it posted yet. My daughter is often right ;)

[@MrSpudtheBinx]

I bought a resin printer to print planetary gearboxes, the elephant footing has been a critical problem for me. I will be testing Bulge Buster on an Elegoo Mars, I will let you know the results. Thanks for putting in so much time and effort!

[@Nerdtronic]

Good luck!

[@thisistheburner5346]

Nice man. Solid work.

[@Nerdtronic]

Appreciate it!

[@thisistheburner5346]

@@Nerdtronic Since I got you here... I'm a master DIY tinkerer also, but I cannot figure out this resin problem I'm having. I'm new to resin (from FDM), and cannot get rid of air bubbles in one of my parts. It's a translucent part and needs to be solid. Here are some photos of it.. : drive.google.com/drive/folders/15_XbuURVvJnxIHmMSVfl9cSa_K2ZcH_Y?usp=sharing I tried slowing down the lifting speed. I tried slowing down the lowering speed. I tried increasing the height of the lift. I tried increasing the cure time. I tried increasing the ambient temperature to ~30c. I tried changing the FEP. I tried changing location of the part on the build plate. I tried changing the orientation of the part on the build plate - however I need to be mostly vertical as I'm trying to keep supports off the surface if possible. If this is what is causing all of my problems (probably) well... argh. Why? I'm resourceful, but cannot figure out or battle this problem out of my part. Any help is appreciated!

[@Nerdtronic]

@@thisistheburner5346 Sorry I've never seen bubbles like that. My first thought is the temp of the resin. But you said you already tried that. Wish I could help. Sorry.

[@jackberlien8916]

This is an amazing resource! You have a gift for this stuff, and for explaining it perfectly! I do have a question - in your experiments with bottom layers, do you have a feeling for what the actual thicknesses end up being? Is it possible, given the limited movement of the build plate to have additional thickness because of the long exposure, or is this physically limited by the build plate movement?

[@Nerdtronic]

It should be limited by the build plate movement. I wouldn't think a longer exposure could make that first layer any thicker in the Z. However, I have noticed that some 3d print files set the first layer Z value to zero and some to , and then also on z calibration maybe you use the piece of paper method. So it is possible that the first layer could be one of several different height - while the rest should be . And I don't have the expertise or equipment to analyze or measure it. For my test files I did a layer height of 5 microns so I could really tell what the build plate was doing.

[@zachzee590]

Love this channel, can you please make the cleaning tutorial you mentioned in your dogtag video. My prints dont look as good as yours after post processing!

[@Nerdtronic]

Yes it is coming soon. Q1 2021

[@MrTjmk]

I'm a bit late to this party but I just wanted to state that it sounds like you were on to something helpful. Still, it comes across as a concept that more like an unproven theory. I draw and print all my own models and I try to print directly on my build plate more often than not. When ever possible I just add a chamfer on the bottom face-edges of my models. The chamfer is sized to compensate for the amount of the "Elephant's-Foot" that I was getting before I started simply adding that chamfer to the bottom-most edges of my models. Viewed with a magnifying glass it's still far from perfect but for me it's a simple solution that I would have otherwise had to do alot of post print sanding or filing. I hope that with time you can perfect your solution so that we can all print easier.

[@torravengael4490]

I am very intrigued by the 8mm film scanner. I worked for 13 years at a small video production company in the late 90's early 2000's. One of the things we did, pretty much continuously, was convert old home movies to video. I was constantly frustrated by the limitations of the equipment. I am very curious about what you have come up with!

[@Gabriel4Drummer]

Wow! Great ideas for free 😜

[@SerialtheK]

Great work, waiting for Anycubic mono 4k.

[@falman-5653]

Legend.. thank you sir