Nerf Switches - What you need to know, Fast.

[@coatduck]

Yo, those internals shots of the switch activating are amazing, definitely linking people this video for reference.

[@ShellingtonLabs]

3:31 I thought this was just a photo from how still the cat was. Helpful education content, love it.

[@ArTchN_Ei8ht_Industries]

When are we going to see a, "What You Need to Know, Fast...." about spring upgrades? What do the numbers correlate to i.e. K26, K25, 9Kg, 14Kg, etc.? Which K## has a medium to light draw weight that will still perform better than stock springs? Thanks for making this series.

[@tyrone3010]

I love that sound. 15a switches are my favorite. Smaller, but still very snappy.

[@firstwatch3285]

thanks for the info, can't wait to learn about mosfets

[@BrokeNerfing]

The kitty is not amused

[@shadowsa2b]

Super useful video, if a tad dry. I suppose thats kinda unavoidable though. Sometimes just gotta say info

[@alvythicc]

Thanks!

[@kialmaynard5176]

Thank you for this video. I am making a Lego Nerf Gun as a flywheel blaster, so being informed is always helpful on innovative builds like this one.

[@justnerfin5989]

So, is there no exact way to measure what amperage microswitch can match a motor with a certain stall current?

[@ssgt3620]

There is but you need to look at the spec sheet and unfortunately that's not always available. As a guide most full size 21A Omron switches are rated for a 7A constant motor load at 8VDC (as mentioned the 21A rating is for a purely resistive load at 250VAC) but they have an inrush rating (for transient start-up/stall current) of 6 times that (i.e. 42A at 8VDC). The rating drops to 5A continuous at 30VDC so for 12VDC/3S I'd de-rate that to somewhere in the region of 6.6A continuous and 40A inrush/stall current. In short, for a full-size 21A Omron: 2S ≈ 7A continuous, 42A inrush 3S ≈ 6.6A continuous, 40A inrush Again, in practice, people have put a lot more through these switches without any apparant issues, they just won't last as long. If that's a concern you can use various methods to suppress the inductive spike and arcing that happens when you release the microswitch and suddenly interrupt the current flow (something that you'd need if you were planning to use FETs anyway). You'll likely still have a bit of arcing as the switch closes but it should reduce it espcially whilst the contacts "bounce". Spec sheet for the above Omron is here: www.mouser.com/ds/2/307/D3V_1110-17467.pdf#page=6

[@justnerfin5989]

SSGT thanks, that helps a lot.

[@FoamBlast]

As far as I know, there are no switches that are actually rated to handle the current we are giving them. Best practice is to just use the biggest one you can. The higher difference between the current of the motors and the rating of the switch, the more damage done per activation. A high quality 21A switch will last the longest regardless, but it still has a lifespan ticking down.

[@justnerfin5989]

FoamBlast thanks! That’s a much simpler explanation. Can you give examples of motors that would work without damaging a DB2 lever 10A cherry microswitch?

[@FoamBlast]

We have run DB2 switches with lots of motors and never had one burn out yet. We have a stryfe that has been running for nearly a year and gets used at least once per war. It has Meishel 2.0's running off a DB2 switch. I even have a Khaos with DB2 switches, but it is rarely used. Any motor designed for Nerf is going to be too much for a DB2 switch, but it'll still probably last you multiple years.

[@captaintony6879]

I was wondering is it normal for my microswitches to be melting and affecting the clickyness of the switch and if it isn’t then what microswitch will you recommend for this

[@FoamBlast]

I've never seen the clicking sound degrade over time. What kind of switch are you using, and what motors?

[@captaintony6879]

I was using stock motors with a cylewet micro limit switch

[@FoamBlast]

I've never heard of that kind of switch. Maybe it is not able to handle the load DC motors require.

[@OCDyno]

I'm building a Rapid Red with Neo-Rhinos which is ~ 50A @ stall, I was planning on a Mosfet loom but I don't have enough room, the same goes for 15 & 21A switches, will a high-quality genuine Cherry switch work? and, while watching FDS's vids he mentions the Cherry "DC2" switch, is there any difference between that and the Cherry "DB2" switch you're selling?

[@FoamBlast]

We sell the DC2. As far as we can tell, there's no difference between the two other than the DC2 has a waterproof gasket over the button and the DB2 does not. I'm sure a 10 amp switch will handle neo-rhinos for a while, but I don't know exactly how long it will last. Meishel 2.0's are similar stall current and we have multiple blasters with m2.0's and 10a cherry switches that are still going strong.

[@OCDyno]

Thanks :)

[@martendamink7582]

0:48

[@FoamBlast]

Yup, you spotted video corruption! Our camera is on it's last legs and corrupts video. We have to shoot every take 3 times to try and get around it but sometimes we're left with a clip that has corruption in it because the others were worse. The camera we want is a lot of money, so we're going to wait until after Endwar when money is less tight to buy it. The good news is the new camera has a lot of nifty features that should up our video quality!

[@martendamink7582]

Ok. Hope that you soon get get a new camera so you can make more awesome content faster an a better quality

[@TytonidaeIndustries]

you guys are amazing

[@xWhitechapelx]

Great video, on the clickers. Take a few on a long road trip and annoy everyone.

[@Bean41]

Guess it’s time to “switch” ;)

[@nelsonbrum8496]

"Why u do dis 2 me mom?"

[@pogolol009]

MOSFET video, doooo eeeeeeet! ;)

[@botsndarts1852]

Did the cat give you permission to click those switches in its face. Animal abuse!!!

[@PogiChoie]

I HELPED. 8D ... DID I HELPED? D8

[@FoamBlast]

You did! That was your Omron with it's guts splayed open!

[@Brennagonxavier]

FoamBlast cj nerf sent me