Nespresso arroccino 3 milk frother opening repair

[@tonitam2662]

Great video, opening the machine was a childs play, I fixed the main body in a vise to shake the top-part loose. Unfortunately also my heater burned out...so it is damaged beyond repair.

[@Carasek2]

Many thanks for this. An additional tip is to push the rubber power button through to the inside, slide the mechanism back into the base (aligning the holes) and then push the rubber button back through from the outside.

[@jocelinecarmonelli3088]

Hello , same problem here . The question is where can I get the new resistance heater for that ? Thank u for the video . ;)

[@ananimka]

Thank you so much! you vid really helped me! I was told by Nespresso costumer service that it would be more expensive to fix the milk frother than to by a new one... so i thought whatta hell?! ill fix it myslef )) Btw i figured that when you take the thing apart, you can easily remove the button by pushing it inside. Then when you assemble the frother, you can adjust the inside part, while aligning it perfectly. Then just push the button back into the hole and it snaps to place ;)

[@jummiewhore]

Thank you for your suggestion; it actually made it possible for me to reassemble the frother.

[@olli4611]

What was wrong with the Aeroccino?

[@cedricvermue3105]

thanks for the help! I had the following problem: aerroccino would turn BLUE - - - ALL THE TIME. What I did is opening it, taking the motor out. putting the motor in without the top part (where the milk goes connected) and then I plugged it and started it with a screw driver. And then it would work perfectly, I push it on and it becomes RED! so nothing is broken, somehow this rubber bottum is very clumsy. So now I reassembled it and put the rubber buttom in and now this clumsy buttom mostly works again as supposed. But once it 'breaks', and constantly jumps to blue again I think the quickest solution will be removing the rubber buttom and starting the aeroccino with a screwdriver instead! so hopefully this lasts ! and hopefully other people can get help from this

[@Zack87254]

Thank you! need to replace the thermal link (Thermosicherung), its a 22XR UMI, 133°C. But maybe it will fail again and the fault is elsewhere...

[@CJTas87]

How to open the base?, And take apart everything inside?

[@skytech95]

I found that it was vastly easier to pull the unit apart if I warmed it for 30 minutes in the oven to soften the rubber ring and sealant that the factory applied. I warmed the oven to 140F / 60C then turned it off before putting the unit inside. It's possible you could also do it by running hot water over the area. Separately, note that one of the two screws has a smaller brass-colored washer. Be sure to put this and the other parts back in exactly the same order and on the correct screw, as it's part of the safety grounding circuit to ensure that the metal bowl portion is grounded (earthed).

[@ceppos]

Planned obsolescence, mine has the same problem in the same place, if you follow the line you will see that, even if they appear in the middle and close, they are the two circuit ends, so to repair it (if possibile) you will need to reconnect the 2 line independently. If you look closely you see that in this point the metal is not protected by resin, but exposed to the air...

[@yingtao96]

big thanks. a lot easier to take it a part this way.

[@counterstear]

Great video! Turns out i have the same broken heater at the exact same position. If you follow the windings you can see that creepage currents shorts the heater and it burns to a open circuit. Bad design as you mentioned......

[@mowwow1998]

Audio a bit muffled and unclear but a Great video all the same -- proved to be very usefull. Thanks.

[@HagitGilon]

well done, nice explanation

[@Gilbertvanhaasen]

Hallo Louis, U klinkt Nederlands en daarom mijn vraag in het Nederlands. Mijn aeroccino wordt niet meer warm, was dat bij u ook het geval? Met vriendelijke groet, Gilbert van Haasen.

[@louisverhagen]

Gilbert sorry de erg late reactie. Ik had deze video zelf al een hele tijd niet meer bekeken. Inderdaad bij mij was ook het verwarmingselement doorgebrand. Daardoor wordt de melk niet meer warm. Dat is helaas niet te repareren.

[@yingtao96]

big thanks.

[@counterstear]

....typo, we of course do not have the same heater ☺

[@ralorpa]

See my photos of burned heather element (why is the element burned off at the mark?) imgur.com/a/8OY6l I have this model and the element on the heater print is burned at exactly the samt spot as in the video. There is some form of symbol or square markings, and the element is burned exactly where the element crosses the symbol. Planned life of product? In Norway we have 5 years reclamation right if "fault made at production". Was in the shop where it was baught, but its now 2 weeks over the 5 years. Despite this, I will send letter and photo and ask for help, because the burned elemente is caused by the design - thats obvious. Somebody having an idea of what the rectangular symbol is for?

[@hanshermans3458]

Wat een enorme amateur, die werkelijk niet weet waarover hij het heeft en niet eens weet dat de schakelaar vóór montage uit het huis moet worden genomen. Laat ik het over zijn gebrekkige Engels maar niet hebben. Mijn advies? Haal dit filmpje zo snel als mogelijk van KZbin af...

[@yingtao96]

big thanks. a lot easier to take it a part this way.

[@Anonim-vq7fm]

Thanks a lot