Nespresso Aeroccino Milk Frother Diagnostic and Easy Repair Part 2: Reassembly

[@justinwade8920]

Absolutely love your subtle commentary. From a Yankee, we still love that dry British humor. Very informative videos.

[@razenby]

Thank you kindly

[@Eduardomd54]

I thank you, and I found the thermal fuse was blown., at this point, just to see if it works, I unite the two cables with out the blown fuse, and it t worked ! Next step, to find an equivalent t-fuse, and that grease, and re assembled the unit. Thank to you I saved my Aeroccino. Eduardo Ramírez/ Tabasco- Mexico

[@razenby]

Excellent!

[@karstenblomberg4803]

Excellent Video. I did my own repair following your video on how to do it. I did however put in a 250V, 133C, 2 A thermal fuse instead because I couldn't get hold of a normal 4A fuse as you suggested. So I was a bit nervous when I turned on the milk Frother ... but it worked and still do. Thanks for the great repair video.

[@razenby]

Great Job. A smaller fuse is better if it holds up! Thanks for the tip.

[@electricdonald]

Many thanks for the Video and for helping with the components. It’s all fixed and working.

[@razenby]

Great to hear!

[@clintonpaul3516]

Mine stopped working last week, ordered the fuse and honestly was quite skeptical . Replaced it and voila,, good as new . Thank you

[@razenby]

Great news,

[@JasonWatts-v8f]

Hi there and thanks for the video. Took mine apart as wasn't powering up - thermal fuse was open cct. Have replaced and reattached and there is now continuity but it still doesn't work. Any ideas what else could be wrong?

[@razenby]

Hi Jason, are the contacts where the base power socket connects good?

[@JasonWatts-v8f]

@@razenby Hi and thanks for the reply. Yes I put the empty cylinder on the base just to check that it wasn't the base and there is definitely mains getting to the terminals inside.

[@ZHELTIKoff]

thanks, I fixed it thanks to this video. Good luck, friend

[@razenby]

You're welcome! Thanks for watching. Subscribe of you want to do ma a favour. Cheers.

[@alanvango5677]

Hi I managed to get the fuses and replace all good works fine now thank you very much for sharing this information and teaching thank you....kind regards Alan

[@razenby]

You are welcome

[@davidcarlislebtinternetcom]

David Carlisle Thank you so much for helping me to fix my Nespresso Milk Frother. Also a big thank you for sending me the resistor needed to fix the frother. It was very kind of you. Most helpful.

[@razenby]

No problem. Good to hear something has been saved from the Land-Fill and our balance of payments improved coz you don't need to buy a new one.

[@gustavobuffoni1368]

164/5000 Thank you! very useful! The magnet container had slipped out of position. Your video helped me in disarming and reassembling. We are already preparing cappuccinos again !!

[@razenby]

Glad it helped!

[@wungoat]

Thanks for the guidance. It was was very helpful. I found a suitable thermal fuse at Jaycar Electronics (I'm in Melbourne Aust) 133 deg 240V 10A for $3.95. I also found that it was quite easy to replace without having to de-solder the red leads. Other than that I followed all of your procedure.

[@razenby]

Thanks, no problem. Good tip. I took it off so everyone could see how to do it.

[@ranjitrakhra8427]

Outstanding session... BTW... the lower line is for 'Hot Frothing' and the upper line is for 'Cold Frothing'. Hold button and release fairly swiftly for 'Hot' button glows red. Hold button much longer and once it turns blue release and it will froth 'Cold'... ;-)

[@razenby]

Thanks for the info . I confess, I didn't bother to read the instruction manual...

[@203MPH]

Got a blown thermal fuse as well..... Thanks for posting. Ordered the fuse and then it will be fine again. BTW if you just want to warm milk remove the spring part from the spinning thing. Was warming some hot chocolate milk for the kids. Didn't clean between the 2 cups and the sugars got stuck on the bottom causing to overheat..

[@razenby]

They are very prone to burning the milk in a hot spot along the circumference of the spinner. The design does not fare well on UK 240V mains supply. The power dissipated in the heating element increases at the square of the factor of the supply voltage. (Power = Voltage Squared / Element Resistance) . UK mains is often at 245 to 260V and maybe as high ah 265V if you live near a substation. Mine was running a full 100W higher than the power consumption stated on the label so that the rate of heating is too fast for the thermistor temp sensor to react so it overheats the thermal fuse blows. Woefully inadequate design. At 230V You can turn it on with no milk and the protection works fine but at 245V it blows virtually every time.

[@rolandsmith2141]

top tuition thanks, I told the missus I'd fix it now there's every chance I will

[@razenby]

Great news. Bad design flaw paid for by customers and Nespresso's reputation.

[@richardbaxter3170]

Hi… very helpful video.. I currently have some problem within milk frother. It does froth milk , but no where near 100% . Hot milk only.. Think I should check these fuses? Any help would be appreciated… many thanks

[@razenby]

Check your whizzer isn't clogged. Skimmed long life mil gives the best froth. Milk that needs to be kept in the fridge (bought refrigerated) doesn't produce much if any froth all as it has been homogenised. Oat milk has to be the barista variety as most normal out milk just looks like used dishwater after attempted frothing.

[@debbiebramwell4522]

This is so useful - attempting to fix mine now. Having trouble opening my crimps but will get there!

[@razenby]

Good luck with it

[@ariebos7872]

Thank you for the explanation. I have a slightly different model, without a thermofuse in the red cable. I do not know if there is one, and where to find it...

[@razenby]

The older models have the thermal fuse embedded in the thick-film printed heating element. Inspect it the information carefully - is there a thin section that looks burned?

[@ariebos7872]

@@razenby I checked the heating element, and it looks in perfect condition. can't send a photo here, but there is no visible irregularity on it...

[@channelsixtysix066]

Excellent videos. I enjoy watching channels like yours. The channel name made me laugh, that was good enough alone to subscribe. Cheers. 👍

[@razenby]

Thanks for the comment. Appreciated..

[@anniematie6316]

Thanks for this video! Very clear explanation. I'm facing the same problem. I wondered: everybody following this instructions is buying 10 pc's of both fuses. Probably you repair just one Aerocino. Who has some spare fuses for me?

[@razenby]

Sorry I don't have any spare - I used to sell them on eBay some buyers let everyone down. I got fed up with the questions. It is only a guaranteed fix if you have a blown thermal fuse not a panacea to fix every possible fault..

[@xxGuItArGiRLxx89]

I don't know what to do with my frother. I know it can be easily repaired but don't have the tools or time with 2 babies. I am in far West London.

[@hikertugong]

Very nice video! Very helpful. My daughter also had the exact same device that broke and asked me to help her fix it. I found the same problem and I used a disassembled part from an old unit and I replaced it. But I can't fit the mug into the case because a button blocks its access. I want to understand how the final installation was done. Saw episode 2 of your video and saw that you had removed the button, but didn't see how you put it back in place at the end either. I don't know how to take it off. I'm afraid it might break it. Thank you for the video.

[@razenby]

I just eased out the silicone button silicone rubber out of the case and replaced it when the internals were fully seated.

[@hikertugong]

Thank you, I have installed it, after testing, everything works fine. If I didn't see your video, I might want to remove the bottom cover, which could cause damage.

[@danielpaliz8928]

Nice work, regards from Ecuador

[@razenby]

Thanks.

[@danielpaliz8928]

@@razenby I have a question, my Nespresso works with 120 V those pieces fuse and thermal links, do you think works on it? even if its are for 250 V? thanks for your advice.

[@jorgecamarotti9389]

Thanks for the clear instructions! I have the 3192 Model and it starts and stops and I have to try a few times to get it to work. I realized that problem is "cold milk". If I put room temperature milk or lukewarm water it works normally. Could it be the thermo fuse causing the same problem as well? Best

[@razenby]

Unlikely to be the fuse. They usually just go open and that is that. It could be the contacts on the bottom of the heating element. When you put warm in the container changes shape due to expansion and the contacts make. If you see any evidence of spark then clean them and bend them to make a firmer contact.

[@JBarfett-bo5xt]

Thank you. My frother is the aeroccino plus with a handle on the side. It will froth on cold but just flashes red when I try to heat the milk. Is the thermal fuse causing that?

[@razenby]

The thermal fuse will cause the it to be totally dead. If you have the later model then open it and check the later type thermal fuse that is a printed section of the printed thick-film heating element. See the other Nespresso video on the channel this.

[@jamessanders730]

Thanks for reply, used the same milk for years, never been an issue. Whisk is clean and magnets in place. Think I will replace whisk and see if that corrects the issue. I have seen changing the polarities on the magnet connection can help?

[@razenby]

Hmm never thought of that. It is probably the motor brushes failing or a bad connection to the motor either of which could cause low RPM. One thought - is the milk hot when the cycle finishes..?

[@christiandemarino8895]

Thank you so much for the video. I am going to try and do exactly what you did and see if it works. Cheers.

[@razenby]

Best of luck!

[@nixxonnor]

It's amazing there are so few comments to this nice video. I like your style. Keep it up, "bro" :)

[@razenby]

My wife says I need no encouragement but thanks for the comment. Appreciated!

[@mannyevangelista]

Great vid. Very helpful. Tnx! 👍👏🙋

[@razenby]

Thanks for watching.

[@davidwells9471]

That was really cool, well explained. But just as I was about to open mine up and test the heat fuse, my daughter pointed out that the 'aero wasn't sitting flush on the power knob, and on inspecting the base of the 'aero I could see that the outer copper/brass electric contact had been crushed by someone (?) ramming the 'aero onto its base. Delicate retrieval using two micro-screwdrivers got the contact straight but 'aero still not working. Maybe the contact is too straight??

[@razenby]

Good job!!

[@jamessanders730]

Milk frother whisk spins and milk get hot but it’s doesn’t froth. Taken mine apart with your great guidance, all seems fine. Any idea why not frothing.

[@razenby]

Maybe you have the incorrect milk, semi homogenized full fat milk doesn't froth well. Try some long life skimmed milk, If that doesn't froth then your spinner isn't going around fast enough. Check it is clean and that magnet is strong.

[@harrysinger7250]

👊 Good video, thanks! Have you got any thermal fuses left?! 🙏

[@razenby]

Sorry I don't. I used to sell them on eBay but got fed up with people thinking the fuse was a panacea for all faults. eBay would refund them without reference to me...

[@guillermob.5963]

Hi how are things? I need to do this repair on an Aeroccino 4. The main problem is that it comes sealed and not with screws. I have a question about how to open it and secondly, I don't understand why in addition to the thermal fuse you put a resistor. Although I think you mentioned that it is another fuse but not a thermal one. Is there any particular reason or is it enough to change the thermal? From already thank you very much!

[@razenby]

The component in series with the thermal fuse is a normal 3A wire ended fuse. I no have an Ambiano milk frother it is a third of the cost of an Aeroccino and much more reliable. It works better without the milk scorching. Thanks for watching and subscribe if you can.

[@bearyw]

Thanks, helped me fix my broken Aeroccino!

[@razenby]

Glad you found it useful.

[@johndalton3511]

Nice fix.... FYI the two Max indications refer to the "twizzer".... the lower mark is for the twizzer with the coil spring attached. With the coil spring attached you get a very frothy result. You can remove the coil spring from the twizzer and the machine will produce a less frothy milk allowing you to fill to the higher level.

[@razenby]

Thanks for the info!

[@sashkeenalex]

Really helpful video on the disassembling part, but then I discovered mine model that looks completely the same from the outside had a totally different scheme inside. In fact, I had some kind of a heat fuse soldered on the heating element itself, which was completely gone when I opened the device. The red power cable that goes around the assembly in my case is a solid line…

[@razenby]

Ill have to check one of those out.

[@DavidDaly-zo4tt]

Dear Magic Smoke, I have a model 3194 which I think is an aerocino 3. Not working. When I briefly hit button the red light comes on and device heats for about 45 seconds before cutting out. When I hold the button to illuminate the blue light no heating or frothing function, then cuts out after about 45 seconds. What do you recommend? 🙂

[@razenby]

Tricky, if it is a reliable 45 seconds every time? If so, it sounds as though the processor may be getting wrong temperature information. Does it whisk cold milk OK?

[@nickray3829]

I found a repair kit for the Nespresso Aeroccino3 on eBay with an upgraded resetting thermostat fuse for £7.20 + 72p P&P Stuck it in my watch folder for the time being. Have watched part 1 of your repair video (most intuitive, I will say).. About to watch part 2 :) I've subscribed.. you definitely know your stuff & it's very interesting watching. Bit disappointed with Nespresso, making their milk frother basically throwaway.. & over what could be a pretty simple fix! It's not like the Nespresso is exactly cheap (just saying).

[@razenby]

Thanks, Good luck with the fix. It is a travesty. At the office we have the £20 SilverCrest milk frother from LIDL UK. (£20) It has been going strong for three years and has been used a lot. The problem is with the Aeroccino is that in the UK our mains can go as high a 263 volts especially with the local solar in-feed. The semi-rural grid where we are was designed with transformers tapped for a pure load secnario. When the sun comes out here the voltage can go up by 20 volts. The power dissipated in the element increases with the square of the supply voltage and the thermal dynamics of the Aeroccino hasn't been tested. They may have improved the later models but the early ones were a victory of style over content. Ecologically negligent design.

[@vicbridgland4463]

Hi I am trying to repair a Nespresso Aeroccino 4, which I think has a failed thermal fuse as per your video. the fuse has markings 4A 250V and 7A 125V also 22XRUM1 I think. I was wondering if you have any of the two fuses you used in the video I could buy. I know the video is 4 years old so quite a long shot. Thanks

[@razenby]

Sorry I dont. I will get some in. I got fed up with eBayers complaining because the component set wasn't a cure all. No diagnostics and no brain and then indignant because they were too thick, if there was a human race they would be near the staring line scratching their heads. Summary refunds by eBay with no return. As my dad used to say 'no good deed goes unpunished'

[@vicbridgland4463]

@@razenby Thanks for getting back to me. Much appreciated. I am trying to repair my daughters machine. It seem pointless for me to purchase 10 of each as i would never use them. I realise that these may not cure the problem but there apears to be no continuity through the fuse so its worth a try. Let me the costs and your email and i will send over my details. Thank again.

[@pamelynzhou]

Hi there, Thank you for the video! my thermal fuse is completely burned(black) PTFE tube cracked. I'm trying to find a replacement online here in Malaysia and found Thermal Fuse 130°C 3A 250V and 135°C 3A 250V. Should I use the higher or lower temperature or must I stick to the thermal fuse with 133°C? Thank you.

[@razenby]

I would use 135 degree one , The design problem with the Areoccino is that if operated little milk the safety fuse region heats up much faster than the temperature sensor region tripping (blowing) the thermal fuse before the micro-controller realizes that the temp is to high and shuts off the power to the heating element and by the time it does it is too late to save the thermal fuse..

[@pamelynzhou]

Thank you for your reply. What about thermal fuse with 135degree 5A vs 3A one?

[@razenby]

@@pamelynzhou Please remember to like and subscribe. 5 A is fine. The current rating is not the current rating at which the fuse will blow ( as with a normal fuse). It is rating of the current that the fuse can carry and remain in temperature specification. So this is not acting current protection device it is only acting as a thermal protection device. Therefore you can use either. .

[@matiasricardes6990]

Hey is it okay if I only use thermal fuse and also is it possible to remove the crimps and simply weld the wire and fuse together as the crimps are quiet hard to get rid of

[@razenby]

If you solder the wire you may blow the thermal fuse. If you want to try soldering then do it quickly whilst holding the component leg with a pair of pliers to sink the heat from the solder. I was always taught to fit a fuse. Up to you if you want to omit it.

[@alainhelden892]

Hello, Thank you sooo so much for this video. my aeroccino 3 does not warm the milk anymore. Can you tell me exactly which fuses I will need?

[@razenby]

Best openit up first and take a look and see if you have the same model aeroccino as shown in the video. they differ slightly.

[@MattDwyer1994]

Super helpful video! I watched this twice and still wouldn’t be able to do this ha. Also, getting the inside of the aeroccino 4 out was a massive pain!

[@johnicke6303]

try levering the top going round with a small screw driver then a larger driver, it will separate I did this after trying for ages just twisting but it was impossible. good luck.

[@razenby]

Thanks for the info. get a Silvercrest frother from LIDL we have one going strong for nearly three years, it is a much better piece of kit.

[@LeBlancTV]

Thank you for the video. I have an aeroccino 3 and there is no power at all.. no light no frother no heat. I looked for the thermal fuse with a multimeter and the connection is good. I check the connection of the other part who may be broken in the first video (part 1) and it seems good but i am not sure to know how to test it. I tested the power supply base and it's ok. I really got 120V (I am from canada) and the connection to the bottom of the milk frother are also good. After, I tested the push button and it's ok. Wich part should I check? Maybe it's a component on the circuit board? I don't understand. Thanks for your help!

[@razenby]

The usual culprit is the Off line- Buck regulator chip. 8 pins on the HV side. If you send me a photo I will tell you which one. [e-mail]

[@kenang7204]

Brilliant!!! Thank you very much ! Just having trouble to order the parts, any luck could you share the details here ?

[@razenby]

Did you get some parts? I am just ordering in bulk from the supplier if you want some.

[@RickSwartwood]

Great video! Where can we order these parts? I am in need of a 222R 250 115 degree Celsius

[@razenby]

Hi Rick . That is interesting the original version had 133 Deg Celcius. I keep getting asked so I will get some in. What is the 222R if teh fuse is blown and you have other faulty components likely the TNY chip has blown.

[@betken11]

HI Mine is heating up, starts spinning and then stops after half a turn -any idea what could be the problem?

[@julianchk]

Hi, mine is displaying a solid blue light when powered on. Do you know why? I have not gotten a chance to open it but I am keen to do so now. Can I know where i can buy the kit to repair my aerccino 3?

[@razenby]

The most likely cause of a solid blue light is that the micro-controller is not starting correctly. Often this is just a bad low-power DC rail is bad and the the micro itself. Also check for a stuck/closed tact witch. Check Off-line PWM regulator chip and its associated capacitors.

[@andreskis5265]

Congratulation... One question...what valor is the resistor, your put with the fue? Thanks a lo..

[@razenby]

Not a resistor is is a 3Amp in line wire-ended fuse.

[@gervaseevans4856]

Thanks for a great couple of videos explaining so easily what might be the problem with the Aerccino. I have now taken mine apart & it doesn't have the heat fuse. I can't remember how long ago we bought it but do you have any idea what I should be looking for? I was so excited to be able to get this working again & having a frothy coffee but at least I have a set of trilobular and security bits !! Cheers Gervase Ps the to level marks in the container are for 2 different types of whiskers. One is for cappuccino the other for latté .

[@razenby]

I just made a video on how to fix the heating element in the Aeroccino like your that does not have the seperate thermal fuse.

[@ariebos7872]

@@razenby could you please give the link to that video, as I am so curious where the fuse can be found...

[@hernancoronel]

Hi great video thank you! The two maxes are for heated milk (the lower one) and the top max for un heated milk (you have to press for a few seconds to get that started). I am troubleshooting mine with the multimeter and I can’t find the fault! Heater, fuse, 22 ohm resistor, chip (the one you pointed out), power are all ok but the thing is dead as if it were not connected. Any ideas? Thank for the great video!

[@razenby]

Check the power relay.

[@malcolmmcfarlane7565]

Nice work, entertaining and enlightening.

[@razenby]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@JamesTurner-or8iy]

Great video and you obviously know what you’re doing! Mine just broke this morning and it looks like it’ll be too much of a job for me to fix...would you be willing to do it for me? I’d hate to just chuck it out, seems such a waste...

[@razenby]

James where in the world are you?

[@KT-yn8cj]

I love the effort, after reading all the complaints I cant understand how they havnt revised the design or halved the price. It looks like the only thing they superseded is the colour.

[@razenby]

It is a design fault. The elements are too variable and pull a lot more power than stated on the element rating. My Aeroccino is supped to be 450W and is actually 550W on 245VAC UK Mains. The software could have timed the rise in temperature and then deduced that there was no milk in it and switch it off almost immediately. The lag between the thermistor and the safety fuse if too great when the unit is run on empty. The element burns out before the micro turns off the power. Schoolboy design.

[@zaloalvarez]

Genial, de gran ayuda, funciona. Mil gracias.

[@razenby]

De nada. Gracias.

[@benedictfrancis1833]

Thank you for the video. Appreciate your advise, I dismantled my Nespresso Aerochino + (Model 3192) and found the blue component busted. I would like to send you some photos for your advise, how do I do that, tks.

[@razenby]

[e-mail]

[@rafaelbitencourtTV]

Thank you so much for this. You are a GENIUS! Quick question, I got the Nespresso Milk Frother model for 220v but now I'm in a different country where the standard is 110v. Nespresso recommended to use a 220v to 110v external transformer but it is very big. Do you think I would have a light at the end of the tunnel through internal wiring connections in the milk frother?

[@razenby]

Thanks. I haven't seen inside a 110V unit. There aren't any options on the 220V to convert to 100V. The main issue is thick-film the heater element will be the wrong power. The control electonics are probably universal may work on 110V but take a long time to heat the milk as it will be half the heating power.. Sorry for the bad news...

[@juliasteele562]

Do you still have any spares for these? I want to try mine! Mine’s working sometimes though, I’m not sure if something is just loose…

[@razenby]

If yours is working sometimes than open it up and look for sparking, arcing marks between the contacts that are left behind in the base that bring mains and where they contact on the electronics assembly. Quite often you find that they contacts just need a clean and a tweak to press harder on the mating parts. Also is the base power puck making good connection?

[@jwrobinson7308]

Our Aeroccino 3 bought in 2018 has failed. Have watched your videos with interest but . . . When we switch our Aeroccino on, the red light glows, the spinner tries to start rotating (but manages about half a revolution) and we can hear the liquid starting to heat, but after a few seconds the red light starts to flash and the heater stops heating the liquid. We have taken the unit apart and all inside is clean and dry and my voltmeter shows a low resistance (+/-2 Ohms) across the power terminals. Any thoughts what needs to be repaired?

[@razenby]

Very difficult to say. I would be interested in understanding what is going on if If you want to send it to me.

[@jeanieberman157]

@@razenby WHERE CAN I SEND MINE TO REPAIR?GOT MINE IN 2019 RED LIGHT COMES ON SAME AS ABOVE USED VERY LITTLE. THANK YOU JEANIE [e-mail]

[@brian4712]

Having the same problem, were you ever able to figure out how to fix it?

[@mo_418]

Hi. Thanks for the video. Is the normal fuse needed? I also found a 15 amps thermal fuse, but I was told at the store that what was important is the rated temperature. Thanks in advance!

[@razenby]

Hmm that is a tricky one as there is some heating in the fuse due to the current it is passing. i.e. The temp at which it blows might be at stated load. I did check the spec. I have bought a load of components to post out as a thanks to to Tubers if you want the same ones as I used.

[@Stuber9077]

Mine doesn't have that thermal cut-out. It only has the red wire running one side to the other. Is there a separate TCO on this possibly later model?

[@razenby]

Inspect the element of the exposed area o the thick film element. Early units were not fitted with a fuse - they just had an element that bows open when it overheats.

[@Stuber9077]

@@razenby Thanks. I separated the works from the body as you did and then cleaned the thermal grease off the circuit board where it contacts the Biro spring plunger, reassembled and it only worked without the silicone rubber button. This is fine at a pinch. The button I remember having to push hard to get it to work years ago, so will keep using a matchstick to push the tiny button! The on/off button is hard get out in situ and bends one of the resistors is you so the cover off with it in place. It's there a trick to this? Cheers. Now enjoying frothy coffee at home and at work with my two Aerochinos now working..

[@mrmoneymark]

Thanks for your video, when I press the on switch it spins for a couple of seconds then stops with the light flashing red. If I press and hold it goes blue and spins fine. Any idea if that's repairable? Thanks

[@razenby]

Hi Mark,, there are sever attempts to update the hardware on this product and all of them fail differently. Is that error described in the user instructions. It sounds as though you have a heater fault.

[@jonting7847]

Hi I fixed this by reversing the red and black wire on one of the connectors. Makes the magnet go the other way round. At least it’s making frothy milk again.

[@henryzhang6489]

there is no more thermal fuse in latest version. still figure out where is the problem

[@razenby]

Some models has a section of the thick-film heating element that is not glazed. In this section the heating element is exposed to air and will oxidise and burn out if the element overheats. Then the element is open circuit.

[@CJTurner0]

Would that prior be Rare Black Box or Elonex?

[@razenby]

I know both brands but not sure how they relate to this video...

[@CJTurner0]

You mentioned your past and cp/m

[@SamerM.ElMeligy]

Thanks a lot for this video May I know the motor type is it DC motor or step motor

[@razenby]

DC Brushed Motor

[@SamerM.ElMeligy]

@@razenby U R the best Wish to you all the good wishes

[@chrisridd9423]

Nice job! Did you consider putting in a resettable thermal fuse instead? I'm wondering if the Aeroccino 4 model has any improvements or if (as I suspect) that was not a design goal.

[@razenby]

Thanks. I did consider it but the resettable 250V fuses I could find were thermally quite bulky and slow. Without full safety test I could not really recommend something that may have unintended safety consequences. The problem is with the thermal design. If there is small amount of water it pools over the thermistor so the micro does not get notice of the overheat condition until it is too late. It is exacerbated in the UK because the mains voltage can go up to 265V, Also did you notice that the unit I was testing was drawing 50 watts more power than rated on the label? The dynamics of the thermal design are flawed.

[@Zooumberg]

Hey, Magic. What's your website to buy the parts?

[@razenby]

Sorry I stopped selling parts due to endless emails asking for instructions and diagnosis. It was taking up so much time.

[@Zooumberg]

​@@razenby No problem, I'll just go onto RS then. Thanks for the reply.

[@coffeeloveralways2371]

Many people comment online that over time it looses power and it doesn’t spin as strongly. Is there any repairs for that problem? Thank you.

[@razenby]

Make sure that the whisk is very clean. I had that problem and I believe that it may me the magnetic coupling that drives couples the motor shaft to the whisk has weakened (lost flux/Strength). When they get older they tend to rattle too and it does not appear to be wear in the motor of the whisk. The rattle is the magnetic drive jumping. If you have LIDL store look out for their milk frother (~£20). I have one here now and have bought them for my kids. The office coffee would burn through and Aeroccino in about a year, The SIlverCrest It is a similar design to the Aeroccino except that it is a work horse that keeps on going.

[@Leon-cj8hd]

Thx. We already have Aeroccino #4. Maybe this helps to recover one or another. :-)

[@razenby]

Crikey...

[@jpmirish]

I seem to have a problem with switch. When I push the start button it seems like it makes a connection but then cuts out . . . I have to repeating the process of pushing the button until it finally "catches" and the motor starts. Do you think it is the switch or something else?

[@razenby]

Once you get it to take and start just move it (rotate) the body on the supply base to see if you have a bad contact. If OK and the connection between the base and the body base is not intermittent, take the can off and check that the spring contacts are making Ok where the mains is delivered to the controller. Otherwise t is likely to be the Switched-Mode Power Controller or perhaps an aluminium electrolytic capacitor gone low in value. Inspect the controller closely with a spyglass - you may be able see some traces of scorching where there is a bad component solder joint. Otherwise you will need test equipment and electronic know-how to fix it.

[@markvansickle116]

My Nespresso has a thermal fuse only. Why have you replaced with both the 133deg thermal and 3amp fuses?

[@tommerisia4565]

Because the original thermal fuse has a 3amp rating, the replacement has a 15 amp rating.

[@razenby]

The thermal fuse I could get were 10A rated

[@azamarman525]

Hi, Did you stop selling the kits?

[@razenby]

Yes I did, I could order some more. I got a bit Pissed with eBay summarily refunding people because their Aeroccino was suffering from a different problem not relating to a thermal fuse. Some clearly hadn't watched the video linked to in the listing and a few were quite belligerent. It was not for profit endeavor but it was annoying me as it seemed to be playing out the old adage 'no good deed goes unpunished'. eBay were trying to outdo the Amazon returns policy and expecting the sellers to carry the 5 to 10% loss by increasing prices. I realised what was happening when I ordered some 2 pin CCF bulbs instead of the 4 pin when I went to return them due to my error they just refunded me straight away without needing to return the bulbs... Ridiculous. They claim to have changed their ways to 'protect' he sellers more - their language gives them away. They have no interest in decency as they would say that their strives to be fair to both buyers and sellers. I ddn't want to be associated with eBay. They would rather see something thrown into landfill that returned for resale.

[@azamarman525]

@Magic Smoke I get exactly what you mean and I'm sorry to hear of the bad experience. Your videos helped me a year or so ago and I purchased your listing. The fuse has just gone again so was looking for your kit, as the ones on ebay are without the additional fuse, quite dangerous Anyway I bit the bullet and had to order 10 of each from RS with extra £5 postage. Oh well, better than throwing it in the bin Thanks a lot for your response and education on these matters

[@razenby]

You are welcome

[@gazm100]

Hi do you have one of the fuses spare that you bought as mine has gone aswell?

[@razenby]

I thin I have a few. [e-mail]

[@Jingles-JM]

Hi, Derek here..Really enjoyed watching your videos on the repair of the Milk Frother. I have the exact one, When powered on and starter button pressed, the Red light shows on but the the thing that whiskes the milk to froth does nothing, a few moments later I get a flashing red light, could this be the Thermal Fuse as in your video that needs to be replaced or is it something else?

[@razenby]

Hi, difficult to say. Makes sure that the connector on the base and on the bottom of the unit is clean. Unplug first!! then open up and check the resistance of the heating element with a multi meter set to ohms. Should be around 80 to 120 ohms. Then check that no water has got inside and inspect the contacts that engage with the socket in the base of the outer can and the contacts that press onto the heating element to deliver the power. See if they are burnt or bent. Good luck

[@singlesourcebindingmachine5261]

My frother doesn't have the thermal cut out just the red wire. What could that be? Cheers.

[@razenby]

I think the very first ones relied upon a fusible link on the heating element. When this blew the device was scram as the whole body of the frother had to be changed. To cut down warranty costs, instead of fixing the thermal issues on 240 UK mains they added a separate thermal fuse link to simplify the repair. This is a cheat product that has cost most buyers dearly. Bad engineering and design.

[@AhmedHassan-uv2cv]

If i bypass heat sencer to get off the automatic off the system. What are the disadvantages and consequences of bypass ? I need to make a tea maker of this system.

[@razenby]

Interesting idea. The power of the heater that can be driven by the relay power should be limited to about 600W. If greater than this then use a seperate mains coil relay.

[@AhmedHassan-uv2cv]

@@razenby i bypass all the system, like get off the heart and kidney, XD, and directly giving 220v AC to heating element. And it is working very perfact nicely and fast.

[@razenby]

@@AhmedHassan-uv2cv Good job.

[@nluff]

This happened to my Aeroccino, thanks for making this video. My Aeroccino is North American (Canada) and I'm struggling to find this part. Any ideas? Thanks!

[@razenby]

Thanks. Got them in stock - send me your to address [e-mail] and Ill have them sent out. Parts paid for by KZbin revenues..

[@razenby]

Is your a 110V version or 220?

[@nluff]

@@razenby Wow... very kind of you to offer, thanks. It's a 110V North American. Will send you an email.

[@razenby]

OK

[@eedialistic]

Hi, Haidar from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. I have 2 Aeroccino milk frother. Both have similar issues, heats are fine but springs don’t spin. Both of them. May I know why? How can I contact you?

[@razenby]

Possibly a faulty motor or electronics. Take it apart and have a look at the motor to see if it turns smoothly. Remove the motor any apply 6 Volts DC and see if it runs OK.

[@brian4712]

Having the same problem, were you ever able to figure out how to fix them?

[@tsienna2050]

Dear Magic Smoke, thank you for your videos. I live in Tokyo Japan. How do you think I should go about getting parts to fix this myself. I really do not want to contribute to the worlds’ garbage problem.

[@razenby]

I can suppl the parts at cost plus postage. In your case it would be about $5 including shipping to Japan. My office ship internationally every day so I can get the packer to send them.

[@tsienna2050]

Thank you so much for your super prompt response. I started watching your videos on this because NESPRESSO did not contact me back after almost a week regarding a repair request. But, @ 1 hour after I contacted you, they phoned me saying they will repair mine and not just supply me with a new one. I hope it works out, I cannot stomach that we humans are destroying the planet with our wasteful lifestyles. I really respect your repair capabilities. Sorry for taking your time and sending a true big thank you to you once again!

[@razenby]

Indeed. You may be rewarding a very bad design practices by Nespresso by paying them to repair it or are they doing it for free?

[@tsienna2050]

Magic Smoke, thank you for the question. They are offering this repair for free due to my extended warranty through the electronics store I purchased it at (Yodobashi Camera). But, I will never purchase this product again.

[@alanvango5677]

Hi just video can you send me the 2 fuses pls

[@razenby]

Sorry I no longer have any stock. Got fed up with eBay's antics.

[@gilvan1980]

Where I can find these parts any link?

[@razenby]

Gilvan, if you contact me I'll send you some [e-mail].

[@tsienna2050]

Dear Magic Smoke, thank you for your videos. I live in Tokyo Japan. How do you think I should go about getting parts to fix this myself. I really do not want to contribute to the worlds’ garbage problem.

[@johntaylor4638]

I have a problem where the frother does not fit on the base properly. No obvious obstructions, but it doesn't sit properly nonetheless. Anyone with suggestions?

[@razenby]

You mean the mains powering base-- if so it must be a damage to the connector on the base or the bottom of the frother.

[@klaasdieleman]

I have a Aeroccino 2, I think the successor to this one, with a similar problem. Sometimes it works, sometimes it goes into overheat protection after a few seconds only. I've just refluxed the heating element, like here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bqPMZq2pZst3hbs&ab_channel=dhavemann, but this didn't help. Also bent the copper contacts a little to give it more tension and spread the existing thermal paste a little, because that looked messy. Do you think I should incorporate your fix with the thermal resistor as well? Or could it be something different? I don't know too much about circuitry, but I know how to solder.

[@razenby]

Hmm, difficult to say. If you want to send It i'll take a look. Would make an interesting video. Could be a power glitch or the micro crashing, bad connecting wire, solder joint etc.. I guess you have checked that the AC power connection on the base is sound? A power dip on these isn't managed well and the micro crashes. Check for a sticking power relay for the heater etc... Could be any number of problems. How old is the one you have and what is the model number? It would be interesting to see.

[@klaasdieleman]

Thanks for your quick reply! I didn't check any of this yet, but the cold operation mode works flawlessly, so I assume the AC power is ok? I live in Holland, so sending it to and fro would be a bit expensive I guess. I just got this one for free because of the malfunction, don't know how old it is, but it looks pretty neat outside and inside. It's a model 3192 machine. Are you in for a chat this weekend maybe?

[@razenby]

@@klaasdieleman reasonable assumption however it is only drawing a few watts on cold.

[@zx8401ztv]

Large sign near nespresso " BEWARE! Forgetting the milk has a death penalty and burial once we have finished kicking you around ". We reserve the right to bury you first just for fun. Yes coffee is important.

[@razenby]

Bloody ridiculous design. Bunch of schoolboys. A travesty.

[@razenby]

I gave way the the other 9 sets of fuses. I have bought stock of components for you from RS is £1.47/set. Wherever you are in the world if you send then send £3.75 to PayPal address [e-mail] they will be sent. I have placed them in stock at invebo and the dispatch team ship every day so you should get them quickly by 1st class mail in the UK and airmail if overseas. This is not for profit.

[@razenby]

See top public comment.

[@dcook9299]

This product is defective. Go to their Facebook page and you will see hundreds of unhappy customers!

[@razenby]

Not defective just a very bad design. Works much better in 230V but UK 240-245 V is too much for it.

[@dcook9299]

Magic Smoke I am in Canada and running on 120 60 HZ