OVERWEIGHT! Tamiya TA07 Pro in USGT RC Racing - Netcruzer RC

Overweight so attempting to lighten the Tamiya TA07 Pro for USGT 21.5T RC Racing
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[@knappRC]

Nice wire to wire in the B to get the bump!

[@mnmstoy5]

great racing. I cant wait for our track to start racing on saturday for the summer. in the winter they race on sunday. and of course i work sundays. After a 20 year or so break. Hope to get great again or close to good.

[@netcruzer]

The electrics/batteries have come a long way in 20 years. Your skills should return with some practice. Enjoy!

[@donnienicholson180]

Did you ever look into the aluminum chassis kit from PSM in Germany? I got my old ta07 down below 1300 in 21.5 tc...had to add weight. I also use the same batter...shorty servo...fancy schamcy aluminum/titanium screws...a ROCKET!!!

[@netcruzer]

No but you are now 2nd person to mention that conversion chassis in this video. I always loved the look of the stock exocage tub, but it’s heavy.

[@BC-rc]

Sounded like you had something in your gears

[@Gma7788]

We're getting some improvements to your racing 🏁. In this race, your corner turn in performance is too powerful. You're relying on it to get you around the track. It means that the car is sagging in the rear and creating big stress on the front suspension components. You must reduce the turn in performance and stiffen the rear shocks to stop the sagging at the back. You'll have to get the rear end to step out a bit during cornering. So introduce some EXP to the steering or reduce the grip of the tires. But what changes you decide to make, you then have to retune everything to work with the new changes. As it stands, you're consistently hitting the entry into the corners. You actually want to be power sliding the rear end at that point instead of driving into the inside barrier wall. At the moment you're understeering a rear mounted engine design. You're at the extreme opposite end, to where the rear mounted engine design should be. The rear is supposed to be sliding out and you do minimal steering in but actually do maximum counter steering around the corner. You've tuned your car as if it's got a front mounted engine design. You've got years of tuning to do to get your car driving according to its engineering design. You won't be turning into the corner and hitting the inside barrier. Tune your car to the middle line of the oval track and you'll be the fastest.

[@donnienicholson180]

Shes gonna be a lot cooler and faster once you drop that weight... alloy conversion kit from PSM in German...game changer

[@netcruzer]

I went to a big race after this one (CTSR Xmas championship) and the weight was a problem. I couldn’t compete well. So I got frustrated and stripped this car down. It’s a roller now. Been very good car but I think I’m ready to just move on instead of a chassis swap. We’ll see. For now, I still have it all.

[@donnienicholson180]

@@netcruzer brilliant sir! The mugen is a great option should you want to go that route...anxious to see more usgt races and content

[@Gma7788]

Wrong. Weight loss will increase hitting the inside barrier at every turn. You need to be away from either side of the track. Reducing weight also exaggerates the effect of rapid acceleration and braking. You'll slow down your lap times if you do that. You must do the opposite and add weight to get your car away from the inside line. Foolish kids!

[@donnienicholson180]

@Gma7788 bro....Don't do drugs and try to reason with physics..you'll lose every time. This is racing...and no matter what scale or what class,,,lighter is better! Period! Lighten the weight then balance it out by this process called weight distribution