Neutral-Ground Bonding | How It Affects Your System

[@McDIY]

You all are doing great and I appreciate all your support. Might I suggest including the bonding screw with your inverters all be it loose and not installed. Like you do the comms cable. In future models there could even be a threaded location in the case to have is stored during shipping to be removed and installed only as needed.

[@hendersonsobers396]

Really glad that you guys have released this video. To say that there's been confusion about this NGB issue is the understatement of the year. Great video.

[@robinboling9531]

Holy crap a manufacturer actually specified what to do with the neutral bond.

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Interested to hear peoples take on this. Seems like the software updates solved more then one issue.

[@mossymaple]

I respectfully request, Can you remake this video with a real junction box and wire each set up type/use?(including dual inverter for each use type ) in the demonstration so people can actually see how its done? Diagrams are not the same as real tangible demonstrations of each setup use. Thank you for your time...

[@stargazer7644]

Especially diagrams with unexplained symbols.

[@kimburndred3218]

This is an awesome video, it answers every question I've had about N-G bonding and also how N is passed through in Battery and Grid bypass mode. I had added a N wire from main main incoming panel to my inverter output panel to produce a 'common' neutral wiring scheme. I can see from this video that it isn't needed. (but doesn't hurt either). The last thing I need to verify is the removal of any N-G downstream from the inverter output panel this removing any bypasses and potential return paths through G. Many thanks Brayden and EG4 for stepping up and clarifying this subject. BTW if anyone is interested the standard for the US is called TN-C-S in residential areas. Most likely different in rural areas. Either way N-G bond should ONLY be in 1 location.

[@christopherbosse4754]

@eg4electronics, does this mean common neutral configuration is acceptable running this updated firmware? Does this mean I can use a bog-standard interlock on a critical load panel to switch between mains power and inverter power? Common neutral where the mains' neutral, the inverters' inputs, and the inverters' outputs all share a common neutral.

[@kimburndred3218]

@@christopherbosse4754 yes, that's exactly what it means. Just ensure n-g bond is only in your main panel.

[@PlanePreacher]

Would you please also do this drawing in electrical circuit format? Thank you

[@murraysheerin6949]

Needs doing to clarify

[@AdamDeLay07]

2:10 so with the bonding screw removed, the neutral is only passed through the relay on units after 2/23 or firmware 79.63? I thought removing the screw forced the bond to always be passed through.

[@eg4electronics]

The neutral relay would previously disconnect from the AC-Input neutral in inverter mode, which would remove any line to the bond in your main panel. Removal of the screw would previously just unbond your inverters when they weren't in line mode, which caused concern when people had multiple inverters (so no screw) AND had utility backup with a bond earlier in the system (per code). This firmware resolves this use case, and aims to make code compliance extremely straightforward.

[@AdamDeLay07]

@@eg4electronics So now the inverters utilize a common neutral?

[@norsk54472]

@@AdamDeLay07 that is my take on it, just like the XW Pro

[@tyoungs61]

@@AdamDeLay07 its what ive been doing anyway, had to when using reliance MTS. Now I can get rid of the common neutral at the MTS. my bond has always been only at main panel this way.

[@robinthurston3382]

​@tyoungs61 I'm running the same, reliance MTS. The bond connection is at the MTS and the main panel as if my inverter were the grid to be clear. My inverter is just substituting a generator.

[@dellman9097]

So would this video/information be able to be interpreted as a expletive permission to open the case to remove the bond screw and not void the warranty?

[@dbarnclay]

Great video. Answered alot of questions.

[@robertlongmire5854]

Could you make a video on how to remove the bond screw on older inverters who want to remove the screw and upgrade to the new software?

[@istvanszini9572]

Thank you for your video, this subject is important and should be clearly explained slowly with better visual aids. Please consider producing new videos explaining why the screw was removed, and that the screw does not make a permanent bound but allows the dedicated relay to switch depending on the input. Also, which driver a new customer (like me) needs to install if want to add this screw and have the bounding feature working properly. In my van I'm planning to install all 110V outlets GFCI, since this inverter does not have a dedicated protection ground for the 110V output, what's your suggestion on how to effectively install functional GFCI outlets stand-alone (batteries/alternator) and connected to the grid (considering that the grid had proper protection ground).

[@Roll2Videos]

Great information. Thanks

[@ualdayan]

Does the EG4 3000 EHV-48 have the same ability to always pass through neutral, or on that one would it be better to add the bonding screw back in if you want to run it in grid connected mode with battery backup for when the grid has an outage?

[@limeyboo]

Indicated that this comment was posted a month ago. However as another EG4-3kW (multiple) owner, I would like to know if I need to remove the NG bonding for all the my inverters utilizing the new firmware instead when using the system in either AC mode, PV mode or battery/stand by mode.... Please EG4 have a response... TY

[@Javaman92]

What do you mean by grid connected? These units have the ability to be charged from the grid. IS that considered grid connected? IS off grid where the system only gets its power from solar panels with no ability to charge the batteries from the grid?

[@norsk54472]

thank you, good video

[@patrickcoyne1292]

sooooooo i need to bond my panel? if i’m off grid? i thought the inverter was bonded.

[@DingleFlop]

Hello! I imagine KZbin comments are probably not the preferred means for communication but- Does EG4 support the use case of dual-inverter mobile systems? Will the potential for Delta-Wye style shore power connections (206 instead of 240) cause concerns for the standard split phase installation? Such setups were approved in the NEC alongside the standard 240 split-phase shore power through the same receptacle.

[@Mike-01234]

Installing the bonding screw doesn't that require removing the tamper sticker says void if removed?

[@todamnbad]

How about an update on this same issue with the growatt 3000tl lvelm-es wired in split phase,your customer service has yet to give me an answer on this topic

[@otv28d]

Can you clarify "output panel"? This is the main panel, correct? It has a ground connected to a copper bar (in the ground) and hot and neutral from the inverter, and the neutral and ground at the main panel are bonded (connected), correct.

[@normawhitlatch867]

Please break it down a bit more with video of each example

[@jackmehoffer7819]

Please send my 7 year old back she needs to redraw my picture for the refrigerator.

[@tonyrichard8507]

the mobile firmware is not available for the 3000EH?

[@awesomedee5421]

It did not help. It just confused me more. I didn't know what all those pictures were. Why have a link to get a screw? Why not just ship it with the products or have an empty nut in the machines where the ground/neutral bonding screw is stored for future use. The picture looks like Greek or Egyptian hieroglyphs.

[@mossymaple]

I agree. so this is what i posted to them too, ....I respectfully request, Can you remake this video with a real junction box and wire each set up type/use?(including dual inverter for each use type ) in the demonstration so people can actually see how its done? Diagrams are not the same as real tangible demonstrations of each setup use. Thank you for your time...

[@steveflemingmusic2293]

Can someone please confirm the size of the bonding screw for the 6000ex-48. The m2.5 looks too small for this application.

[@eg4electronics]

M2.5 x 10mm is the correct size.

[@steveflemingmusic2293]

@@eg4electronics maybe I'm not seeing the correct placement, then. Where is it?

[@jayanthpingili5627]

Diagram not labeled, illustration not friendly to first timers

[@pryda1]

How about replacing the broken units you ship to customers in a timely fashion. It's taking weeks after your tech people acknowledge shipping a broken unit. Worst customer support I've ever experienced. 10 days after your level 2 tech acknowledged you shipped me a broken unit I'm still waiting for something called a RMA and no closer to getting a replacement.

[@iagreewithme8577]

Your talking too fast slow down a little.