New Crossmember Kit Is Installed On My 1965 Ford Mustang (Ready For Engine?)

►Check Out Cortex Racing - cortexracing.com/
►Check Out Cortex Racing - cortexracing.com/
►Hey Guys , In today's video we installed a brand new crossmember on the 1965 mustang to get it ready for the 5.0 coyote ! Enjoy
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►Film/Editing- / mqqrk
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[@Vtuned]

►Check Out Cortex Racing - cortexracing.com/

[@Last_stanging]

Coat the frame and primer the body before it rusts.

[@rsprockets7846]

ANYWAY TO STRENGTHEN THE FRAME EXTENSIONS OUT FRONT

[@muskokamike127]

Hey Ben, really digging the daily updates. It's nice to see progress being made daily as opposed to waiting 3 months hehehe (Yes I know I'm a smartass)

[@vidznstuff1]

You forgot the workbench link...

[@chief-Lonewolf93]

Where’s the link to the work bench an keep up the great work love u videos an I bet u wil have it done by time goonsquad finishes the Camaro lol

[@jamest5149]

A suggestion… paint all the good bare metal with epoxy primer and any areas needing repair and welding paint with weld through primer… the rust prevention additive after blasting doesn’t last long, rust will start especially in your damp cold winter in a un heated / conditioned workshop.

[@edweigman9683]

I'm cringing watching them touch all over that bare metal.....

[@atomicbogator6799]

Not just that here in TN it's super humid

[@mrcassioo]

I'm hoping that these videos are a lot more compressed time wise than we get the impression of by when they're released. Hoping this all took place just shortly after it was blasted!

[@eriklarson9137]

@@edweigman9683 I am glad he doesn't let negative comments affect him, but it would be nice if he started taking things to the next level. Not touching bare metal with his hands is a huge thing he refuses to do. I also wish he would step up his prep game. He uses trash products to prime/prevent rust all the time.

[@988danyx]

And i suggest that in those frame rails spray some anticorosive wax...

[@selzhuso]

I’m so glad you got that editor, you’re videos are going to get the recognition they deserve!

[@Vtuned]

Thank you sir !

[@davidblanck4131]

Not going to lie. I'm sold on Cortex. If I ever build a car they have a market for. I'd give them a try. They made this as "Home Built" as they could. Good job on their engineering team.

[@mmike76]

A word to the wise- get those 9 inch concrete cinder blocks out of your shop. They will break and crumble at some point hopefully when your not under something its supporting. Just a loving note from the ER department.

[@RobertForslund]

Get as much of the frame powdercoated as you can, it'll last far longer than just painting it and it will help with keeping that metal cancer (rust) away! It's starting to look pretty awesome! 😛👍

[@tedsmart5539]

Powdercoat is nice but if it gets a rock chip it look like shite and repairs just look worse.

[@thekatmann9730]

Get a couple cans of POR 15, and a good respirator! And start painting.. Great protection - looks good - super easy touch-up, when it gets chipped up.

[@stoveguy2133]

He will sell it ASAP. Who cares?

[@RobertForslund]

@@stoveguy2133 Says who? Doing shoddy work, especially on camera and upload it to YT sure as hell don't precisely up your reputation... So, even if he were to sell it, I say HE should care. So far I've heard nothing from Vtuned that he's selling it when it's done and even if he did sell it, the new owner should care that he or she is getting a solid build! 🤔

[@bryanm3433]

Paint behind the cross member points on the frame before you weld them in. Bare metal back there will make for a bad day! Coming along awesome!

[@VasilyBuilds]

the suspension is going to turn out amazing! Hurry up and prime it

[@richardswain9143]

And the back of it…

[@JohnSmith-xl9bo]

No he isnt priming anything. He's a Moron. He should replace the burnt, flamed, weakened rusted rails.

[@Masstastico]

Pretty wild that the quarters are fully original. This Mustang was definetly cared for alot. Glad that you're now the next person in line to give it the love it deserves.

[@brianproffitt7263]

Yeah but a wide body doesn’t belong on a classic muscle car tho

[@Masstastico]

@@brianproffitt7263 Each their own. I personally don't care.

[@matthewblack986]

Honestly my favourite Resto channel. He goes into every single detail and releases videos whenever there's content. Deserves way more subscribers.

[@jamest5149]

Flash the bare metal over with a quick coat of weld through primer in repair areas and epoxy primer on the good panels… even with the

[@jamest5149]

Hoonican use Steelit black paint on everything in the fit up stage as it is weld through 👍

[@rustyfreeman6750]

You must not watch videos cause it's already been coated

[@jamest5149]

@@rustyfreeman6750 nope, I watched the previous video where it was blasted the blaster added an additive (blue liquid- like Blast-x 108 or phosphoric acid or similar) but it doesn’t last long… like hours or a few days at best not weeks, also any water or hand prints will remove it causing rust to start. It’s common practice in the industry to do blasting with this additive but professionally always prime as soon as all the media has been blown and vacuumed up, on the tin it states to keep dry and paint in a couple of hours. 👍

[@TazR6]

You are tackling a job that most people would run away from in fear. I commend you for doing your bit to keep an iconic, classic car on the road. I cannot suggest strongly enough to go all out on rust protection. While it is at the stage it is in now, you should get some Waxoyl or equivalent and fill every hole you can full throughout the frame. That stuff is voodoo and will prevent any sitting water that gets into the frame from rusting through to outside. I would also at least prime all the areas for welding with weld through primer, and prime all other exposed metal as soon as possible. The stuff it was blaster with is just a temporary inhibitor and its protection will not last long. I am thoroughly enjoying your recent content. You seem to have got into a groove, and got some great things to show us. No snide comments at all from me (apart from the usual "go ahead" nonsense lol). Keep on keeping on, Neil :-)

[@danielmarek4609]

I still would consider adding in the front torque boxes for added structural support. Because it was originally a 6 cylinder is why they aren't there In the state that the car is in right now it's an easy add. The kit you're adding in for the front suspension looks pretty well engineered. Will definitely allow you to install the modern Ford engine.

[@TX_Blake]

Torque boxes aren’t there because it’s not a convertible. No 65-66 coupes came with them. I agree though, now is the time to add them.

[@mistersniffer6838]

Waste of time! Full frame it!!

[@ronwatson4902]

That's a very professional looking job on that front suspension.That crossmember will give it a lot more strength where it's needed.Rock on Tennessee! You are rolling.

[@StangWorks_NL]

I would suggest powder coating all suspension parts. I’m in the last stage of my own rebuild, and I also got the complete front end repainted. I also decided to sand blast the k-member, wanting to get it painted, but the painter suggested to get those parts powder coated, since it will hold better. And I found out it was cheaper after all. It looks awesome!

[@simundos]

Paint the frame with Steel-It polyurethane rattle cans. It will protect the frame and you can weld to it.

[@kamilwiszniewski2552]

Do not forgot about primer the frame in places where you drill a holes to stop rust :)

[@j.d.8593]

You should use Steel-It to paint all the raw steel, and the good thing about Steel-It is that you can weld right over it without cleaning anything, it's a great product, it comes in grey and black, 100% recommend it

[@ColeSpolaric]

Literally the fastest I have ever clicked on a video! The notification popped up right as I was going to tap on something else 😂

[@craigmorgan4676]

Snap bro,loving the vlogs!👊👊👊👍💪💪💪

[@dakine215]

I love how this restomod is going! The subframe looks good. This is going to be an epic build!

[@timlincoln2246]

Some weld through primer on the cross member frame supports would be a good idea - don’t wan that bare metal to rust.

[@andrewway3404]

My brother in-law restored a 69 mustang to original specs. I had a ride in it but I'm 6ft 3" tall and my head was pushed into the headliner! lol maybe check your seat clearance as the original ones do not adjust up and down. Have fun building this, enjoy the videos you do on your builds!

[@marksearcy9708]

Should have used some weld thru primer before tack welding , you don't want let any rust get started. Looking good so far on suspension upgrade.

[@bryanadams3735]

Some weld through prime on the frame rails would have been nice before welding the brackets on.

[@leethomas1776]

Make sure you tack weld those frame rails where you cut off the pinch welds off. A couple of good stitch welds will secure that box back together, then weld in the subframe brackets.

[@MIKEH.777]

That front end from Cortex Racing is looking fantastic and you needed a great subframe like that to handle that motor. Keep up the great work and God Bless you and your family.

[@lautburns4829]

Those are called break drums. Yup weld up those areas where you cut off the frame(. Pinch welds). That body is really clean.

[@johannesdoe5158]

One ride in the rain and the rust blooms in all colors of the rainbow. Corrosion protection between all components! By the way: a wire brush polishes the rust and does not remove it.

[@dmmaddex]

You're doing a first-class job on that Mustang. I can't wait to see the finished car.

[@dontrufit7889]

Wondering if you put weld through primer on the bare metal before fitting brackets to help stop potential rust forming

[@andriescorneliusnienaber]

This channel, has changed from when I started following vTuned, way back at 100k followers. Much better!!!, more than much better. Keep going!!!

[@66rustang78]

That IFS kit looks amazing. Definitely over engineered. You should replace the firewall before you mount the subframe. Those frame rails and the floor supports need to be removed so the firewall can slip under the floor so the water doesn’t run down into the seam. That car will fold up like the letter V if you don’t replace the firewall. That’s where all the strength comes from. If the subframe is on it’s going to be a beast to maneuver into place.

[@RogerioCosta1.0]

Nice! parts You need to treat the base metal as soon as possible and prime the parts that are good do not have to do all the treatment again.

[@JMRRebuilders]

Brothers been looking forward to this for a while. Absolutely loving this build great job and love the setup. Cortex Racing is legit top of the game

[@mcbobly]

Excellent kit, makes it much easier to install with all the parts fitting perfectly and good instructions. Going to look amazing when it’s all in.

[@brianblank9921]

Please remember to prime between metals. You have that beauty down to bare everything and if you bolt or weld pieces to bare metal it will rust under those pieces. It's not just about exposure, welding isn't water/air tight(weld yourself up an air tank sometime, you'll re weld seams over and over again until you get all the pinholes out). They make weldable primer. It's literally a five minute step between cleaning and welding. It's going to handle going around a racetrack until the cancer eats it from the inside out.

[@hungryalien]

Good to see you wearing eye protection hehe Definitely paint or power coat the crossmember. The kit by cortex looks really nice and well engineered. Glad they see the potential in your build.

[@kickit59]

Right on Vtune what you are learning on this Mustang will help you a lot when you get back on the Fastback! As always I am looking forward to the next video!

[@mebrannon1]

Another great vid. Love your shop the new editing style and you are so much more relaxed. Good luck young man the fixture is yours

[@floydsgarage2653]

Love this build, I just did a very similar kit on my 65. Look into getting some frame ties if the car doesn't already have them. Great work, stay motivated!

[@petebird7171]

That cross member kit looks absolutely superb a very well made piece of kit, another great video, 👍👍👍👍👍

[@MrHuismeester]

This is why I like your videos so much, clear talking and make it understandable for people like me who dont have the knowledge off the thecnical part off cars, and not only talking but also doing a lot off work to! Nice solution for this car and now up to next episode !! Nice viedo and great camerework !

[@mark9371]

With the car now blasted down to bare metal, with short acting rust inhibitor, I thought you would need to at least prime and possibly paint the surfaces. I once ran an automated paint line and the metal parts ran through several cleaning stages to remove the oils. After cleaning the metal we used a chemical that etched the metal to prevent rust and I'm afraid any treatment from Ford may have been removed with the sand blasting. I would at least use a etching primer on the frame and the inside of the new suspension parts to help stop rust in the future. Love your channel. Keep up the great work.

[@michaelcurley989]

Nah hes going to keep touching it with his bare hands so it rust. Adds PAINT-INA

[@GPTarkov]

You need to get epoxy primer on that bare metal ASAP before it starts to rust. Otherwise you are going to have issues later on down the road.

[@danorourke5184]

This is so cool doing something different by building a older car not just rebuilding a wrecked late model! Love the video keep it up!

[@jeremy_bragg]

I understand you have to work with what you can, but since you’re putting all this time to do it right. You really need to get the whole car in epoxy first. Then go back and do your grinding/welding/etc. That rust inhibitor/ phosphoric acid whatever it was doesn’t last long, also any touching with your barehands is contaminating it

[@kerryclark1926]

Why didn't you paint or use weld through primer between the new brackets and the frame rails? You know water and debris can get between those pieces. I'd prime the entire car so it doesn't start to rust, before I did any work.

[@peterseitz3476]

Hi Ben, if I were you I would place a sheet of wood at least 1 inch thick, either plywood or solid wood, on the workbench. It would better protect your workbench and components. A bench vise of a reasonable size mounted on it would also do well. In any case, keep it up and I enjoy every video of you, with kind regards from Germany.

[@muskokamike127]

Hey Ben: want to make your hole saws last longer? Pick up a bottle of cutting oil at Harbor Fright.....squirt a drop onto the cutting edge and even on your drills when drilling into steel...they'll last so much longer.....they'll cut faster too!

[@ingresswizard9044]

I also wouldn't wait more than a few day before you get some primer on that car since you had it blasted. The preventative they used is only good for a few days.

[@TX_Blake]

An all original beast, everything is perfect. Except you had to cut most of the front end off and replace the firewall and roof. Got it.

[@raymondtuckerjr1886]

So excited for this build. Given that you "stole it", and it's in such serviceable condition, the finished build is destined to be EPIC, and I'm not missing any of it!

[@tomswindler64]

Good video,just take your time.do it once.you need to put some type of primer on the hole car ,it will flash rust,just keep doing what your doing.👍👍👍😎😎😎

[@dc6902]

Thanks for the timeliness of your videos. It’s like an automobile soap opera! Waiting on the next one.

[@beratsbuilds]

Love the quick progress Ben, great work! But please don't make the car too wide. A subtle OEM+ treatment would look great, especially with the good base car you have

[@cet1421]

Throughly enjoy your videos.. I think its great you get the tools you need as you need them and share with the rest of us DIYs. Also hope you still with building and customize classics and older cars.

[@zkdadof4]

That crossmember is massive. I love when things are overdesigned for the sake of quality.

[@Jimsathome]

Good progress. Glad to see Safety First. How about saving your hands a bit more with some mechanics gloves. Maybe get a sponsor to supply them if you promote them in your videos?

[@brianmef71]

This is my favorite rebuild of yours so far. 🙂

[@SNELLERIZED]

I sure hope you spray weld through primer on all of those areas before sandwiching bare metal together permanently!!!

[@kevinterry9731]

That's what we called a mustang 2 front end in my day .We took those front ends out of pintos and mustang 2s and you had to trim or exstend the front ends to fit your application that you was using it in .We cut them and fit them into 2 1/2 ton trucks and cars that had a straight axle and brakes that don't come with the best brake set ups from factory when they where new .But when done the drove very well handled good also. Then you have your choice of power rack or no power steering at all they still drove good with out no power steering.the straight sides will eliminate the shock towers they are not the best design especially the age weakens the towers in time you have much more room on the sides of the motor for headers and or a big block if you wanted to do so.They where hell to work around in my day .I seen alot of fast backs go to the junk yards and crushers over weak shock towers.in my day they where NO after market mustang 2 set ups available like today they are, they are some pricy ones out there we paid a scrap yard 50.00 to 75.00 dollars a piece to buy them out of a pinto or mustang 2 and would have to make it fit to your application. So times we would split the front ends and make them longer but drive fantastic. Now you can buy rotors set ups for any bolt patterns you want chevy Ford. For the wheels you want to use on it .What you have is a mustang 2 front end set up.in the 65 mustang .Did you say yours was a 4 lug wheel set up? It's a 1964 mustang the first mustangs come out with 4 lug and they recalled them to change them to 5 lug. So if yours is 4 lug it's a 1964 mustang that never took it back to ford on the recalled change to 5 lug car .

[@K4mikze]

there we go there's my bloopers and extras that i was looking for(at the end of every video) 😅😅 can't wait to se this build!!!!!!!!!

[@Vtuned]

I got you

[@williamsjeff1913]

Love your vids..your a young dude ..might want to show this generation how to set up that welder and more details of the tools and how to set them up .. more content 🤷‍♂️💯‼️

[@eugenep9022]

I would powder coat suspension. Will take more time and money but will be well worth it. Will look much better especially if you get a custom color and will last much longer.

[@prashamkarunanithi9064]

When putting the engine in. Make sure the body is reinforced to handle the torque, power and the vibration. I could be wrong here. Weld up the torque box reinforcements. Strengthen the drivetrain. install a driveshaft and transmission safety loop. Rear control arms with poly bushings, panhard bar, rear strut tower brace.

[@rayseal1099]

You have gone from a fully equipped shop to a bare bones shop...Its inspiration for all the guys doing this in their sheds...It takes time but you will soon have the workshop fully equipped out. Companies can see you are one talented guy.. Sorry to say your 2 freinds[brothers] have grown too big and cant stay on a single project and never fully finnish anything..

[@henricloven]

Dont forget to weld the framerails where you made the cut.

[@deadslow201]

This!

[@DKBarie]

If you want your Mustang to handle the more powerful 5.0 without issues, you should add torque boxes to both front wheel wells.

[@houseofno]

More powerful 5.0? The original 289 was putting out between 200 hp all the way up to just over 300 on the Shelby 350s. As long as you don't go completely ape on horsepower it should be fine. This isn't a heavy car so it doesn't require insane power to move quickly. The Coyote is going to require all kinds of changes to the front end to clear the stock shock towers (now deleted here). Its a very top heavy and wide engine. There are valid alternatives to Coyote 5.0s

[@philjohnston9616]

Mean kit. No guess work needed. You're off to a good start. Looking forward to seeing more

[@jrumiano]

You should think seriously about spraying epoxy primer on the entire car ASAP before you get too wrapped up with the engine and such. That blasted metal will rust pretty quickly even with the rust inhibitor that was sprayed.

[@ask4george1]

You crack me up when you describe the parts. You put that cross member and said it looks epic ! Then you said this car is going to turn with precision on the track. I started laughing. No insults, your doing a great job. I just thought it was funny.

[@terrygirard3744]

Exactly! Upgrading the front suspension is just one piece of the puzzle to make a car handle on the track! Need to stiffen up the chassis with subframe connectors minimum and upgrade rear suspension to 4 link. Then you are on the right track to making a car handle..

[@zimzimzimmer]

Love seeing your garage videos so long coming well done Ben 👍🏻

[@agentsmith8703]

Nice work Ben and love the fact you never play it safe and are not afraid to take a challenge with your rebuilds... 👍👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

[@rossodonnell2654]

Oh man. That went together really nice. Can’t wait to see the fabrication and cutting for the gearbox. Great video. Thanks.

[@s7courier]

What an adventure you guys have created. Living life to the fullest. Great show.

[@BossLinco]

Really informative and clean editing makes it easy to watch

[@repz0611]

Protect the bare metal asap with epoxy primer, you’ll start getting rust even with it being inside the shop . 🇺🇸

[@bryduhbikeguy]

That's an awesome start.Add in your frame ties asap so you can get your welding done on the frame sooner,and paint it.(Saw the frame horn vibrating as you just drilled the hole so..yikes does it need to be solidified.)

[@jayboyd1396]

Can you add in gussets or box in your front frame rails to make them stronger? This looks like a pretty straight forward kit to use

[@rickbareman2263]

You got blessed with a good car know just give it some v tune expertise and it will be awesome, great video 👍

[@misterfeedback202]

Great update. I think vTune enjoys wearing the miner’s light! Great editing and soundtrack!!

[@zkdadof4]

That crossmember is massive. I love when things are overdesigned.

[@jimschafer9196]

Cool motor mount system, its coming together nicely.

[@xJeanplef]

the quality of your videos is amazing 💯

[@RABBITMotorworks]

I keep looking at the fast back and thinking what’s in store for both as a pair, lots to work with!

[@theneutralground1694]

Love the build, the process is really awesome to watch. Thank you !

[@spencerwh123]

This is starting to remind me of Horsepower TV. Except someone is actually working on the stuff and doing a much better job.!! Keep up the great work and editing!

[@fincars.]

Nice build. I’ve been building classic cars over 30 years. These classics deserve a second change. A professional advice, use some paint between two panels/metal parts before welding them together. It would make many old car addicts happy:)

[@DanneCyrus]

Exact! Why not just prime before mounting all parts, feels like Ben skip some steps sometimes.. Better to do it right from the beginning..

[@sjv6598]

Watch the video. He mentions they will all be painted before final fitting…..

[@f1kwa399]

@@sjv6598 so he’s going to cut all the tack welds and remove those brackets and paint them?, I watched but I didn’t hear him say that, so long as he does that otherwise it’ll be rusting between the frame and the brackets, that’s what dozens on here are also saying. He’s in too much of a hurry.

[@davevan8864]

The Cortex kit looks well made and engineered. But I can't justify the cost to convert my 66 Mustang 2+2. That and I have a 2016 Mustang/Roush if I really want to go fast. I like the contrast from 1966 to 2016!!! The Cortex kit, so far, looks like it is related to the Ford Mustang II system that is so popular.....just higher end. Thanks

[@FabiusMaximus1000]

This is the approach I wish he had taken with the first Mustang. Those brackets are saving a lot of time and effort.

[@estpst]

Love those new quality parts, great job

[@davescheer5038]

The Stang is on its way , cutting out the firewall to get that tranny is tricky, remember to leave enough room for all your linkage and drive shaft when you build the inside sheet metal , well it looks like ya need to go to harbor freight, welding mask , creeper, mechanics scooter chair, oh and a BFG ! Big freak’n garbage can ! 😄. Get the top done as soon as you can and seal up all the raw metal so no oxidation ( rust ) starts , Keep Calm and Carry On ! 👍🏼😄

[@haroldboyer1174]

Awesome video VTUNED, can't wait to see the motor in soon.

[@kipcarson3307]

You should have shot the frame rails with weld through primer with metal on metal it will still rust behind that

[@wastingmymoneyonmotorcycles]

Note to self: When you get a suspension kit vendor to sponsor you, don't say .... these guys were the only ones that got back to us. Like keep that to yourself...

[@hungryalien]

I actually appreciate his honesty. I know it probably dont sound very nice to others. But thats setting vtune apart from others. Hopefully soon many other vendors will come knocking.

[@wastingmymoneyonmotorcycles]

@@hungryalien Agreed and I also like that he shows his mistakes.

[@richardbertram9192]

Seeing you drill into that frame shows how they used mild steel back in the day as opposed today's hi-tensile steel.

[@hectorflowers8284]

Loving the new video editing style, looks a lot more professional. Great job with the Mustang too, keep it up V (and finish building the fastback LOL).

[@23RD]

Can’t wait to see that thing ripping!

[@68dosh]

Good to see some safety gear being worn

[@dentmastersofnymichael3316]

Eastwood makes a nice chassis black extreme and it looks really good on the car