New Electrical Outlet Installation: 3 Essential Improvements You Need To See

[@Francis__D]

I rolled my eyes a little when you said its the biggest technological improvement in over 100 yrs. But the more i watched, i was shocked its taken 100 yrs. These outlets need to be the standard.

[@DaruDhillon]

You’re on point. It’s sounds overstated like you say but little has changed in that time which is surprising compared to other countries.

[@RadioRich100]

Those outlets are as much junk as wagos, there for lazy electricians, and expensive.

[@guydauderman1645]

I agree about the old “back stabbing” old conventional duplex plugs. The contact area of those old “back stabbed” have only about 10% of the surface area between the wire and receptacle conductor. In these new wego style receptacles have as much or more contact than a wire rapped screw connection. When I was an electrician we never used the back stab method. We always rapped wire around the screws. IBEW 58 Detroit.

[@DaruDhillon]

Hello to you in Detroit! Thank-you for sharing your experience as an electrician. Your thoughts on contact area are appreciated. I remove backstabs when I see them here too.

[@ironmartysharpe8293]

Hello to you in Detroit as well , Since you like the Wago connectors like I do , Just recently , They've become available at The Home Depot in Toledo Ohio , So check out The Home Depot in your area , They may be available there I agree with you 1000 percent that I never use back stabbing receptacles and switches , I always use commercial grade which has a pressure plate where you insert the wire and tighten the screw and the pressure plate grips very tight on the wire , Those back stabbing receptacles and switches should have never been put on the market

[@throttlebottle5906]

time will tell.... having seen, used and dealt with the backstab junk over the years and taught to NEVER use them in the mid 1990's, every single one I run into now has either caused a fire or melted itself and the wire jacket back to the box entrance. I do use push-in/wago/lever style for end devices, ballast replacement/bypass, otherwise I avoid them all. receptacles and devices should always be pigtail spliced, NEVER using them as feedthrough/continuance devices. but wire nuts(marrettes) should always be twisted tight enough the wires wrap around themselves and a bit of the wire jacketing also(solid wire) stranded just a bit of twisting. most install them limp wristed or pre-twist very poorly. been there and fixed many that way, people thought they did a good job and had loose arcing connections everywhere with foot traffic over the floors causing vibration and flexing. including some holidays with family, "gee why did the microwave suddenly quit working", (because your newer husband Bob wired it very badly). Bob returns home in the middle of me fixing the "his bad splice" at basement box under middle of kitchen floor. he says "gee that never should have failed, I stripped it way back, twisted it together and put on wire caps and electrical tape. yeah he did! stripped the wires well over an inch back, twisted them loosely counterclockwise, followed with an loose wire nut and tape to cover the rest of the bare wiring. 🙄 I "kindly" showed and explained to him what was wrong as I speedily the repaired the wires so the microwave could function to reheat some of "thanksgiving diner" or was that "christmas dinner". late 1990's, who recalls every detail anymore.

[@grady9752]

Professional handyman here. I just spent two days tracking down multiple electrical issues at a customer's house. They called me because they had "switches and plugs that sometimes worked and sometimes didn't!" How this house didn't burn down is beyond me. Every outlet, every switch was back stabbed when the house was built in the mid 80s. There were at least 4 circuits with open neutrals, a couple with obvious charred burn marks where the wires had worked their way loose over the years from the stab connectors. I know of no electrician these days that would ever use these. If you DIYers find you have purchased a switch or outlet with stab connectors, there is still always an option to attach your wires with the brass and silver screws. Make your connections that way. Properly installed, a screw connection will essentially last forever and it's a heck of a lot safer. Great content Daru. People need to be shown how to do these things safely and you do a great job of that.

[@darelvanderhoof6176]

Screws always loosten over time with thermal cycling, so you are dependent on copper welding to copper once this happens and arching has begun. Thats why aluminum wiring burns houses down, it does not weld, it just burns. Any spring loaded connection, like the lever, will stay tight, and if there are anything like teeth to dig in then vibrations and thermal cycling will cause wiping actions that keep the contact points free of oxidation so the electrical resistance stays low. Related, if you use any stranded wire into any connector that is not spring loaded, do not tin the wire with solder. The solder will compress over time and the connection will loosten, so leave the stranded wire bare. This is not a problem in a spring loaded connector. Former electrical maintenance technician 40 years.

[@gerardjanssen]

Are you serious? You don't have a clue about what you are talking about.

[@Robertgaudette-pl5ke]

Old school wires around the screws always if you’re worried about shorts wrap scotch 33 black electrical tape

[@DaruDhillon]

Excellent tip Robert! Thanks. Just wrapped some tonight.

[@ironmartysharpe8293]

​@@DaruDhillon Whenever I install receptacles and switches , I do that as standard procedure for added safety Whether it's a metal or plastic box but what I use is the Scotch 33 electrical tape but the 1 1/2 inch wide tape for much better coverage

[@maderightamerica3216]

I'm getting ready to totally rewire a house I just bought. I really like these new type of outlets. Thank you for posting this video.

[@DaruDhillon]

You're welcome!

[@polyuniverse1908]

Only time will tell how good these are. I like the concept but any time you put plastic under constant stress it may create a problem over time as it ages. I’ve seen so many changes over the years that everyone thought was great then years down the road they found out there was a problem. The metal screw that screws into metal has been around forever and if installed correctly, the connection will last a lifetime. Just something to think about before you change everything in your home.

[@yiannimil1]

@@polyuniverse1908 all they had to add is a plastic snap on cover to existing screw types to isolate from exposure. but then ...no added sales

[@sjpropertyservices3987]

I have been using Wago connectors for several years and have been very happy with them. Just received free sample of this receptacle and waiting for opportunity to install it. I think one of primary benefits of this receptacle is avoiding problems with DIYers using backstabbing to connect wires.

[@DaruDhillon]

That’s a good point about DIYers. This is designed with homeowners in mind. Thanks for sharing your take on Wagos I love hearing reviews like yours.

[@sjpropertyservicesllc9096]

You are welcome. Looking forward to your next video.

[@ironmartysharpe8293]

Since you like the Wago connectors , Just recently in my area , They're now available at The Home Depot , They may be available at The Home Depot in your area

[@sjpropertyservices3987]

@ironmartysharpe8293 They have been available at my local HD for awhile. Thanks

[@ironmartysharpe8293]

@@sjpropertyservices3987 You're welcome

[@manw3bttcks]

4:40 So the box extender is small enough to fix inside the old metal box in the wall? It sure doesn't look that way. Otherwise the box extender would bump into the old box which is probably nailed to a stud and won't move.

[@larrydaniels6532]

Very good improvement over tried and true standards. Someone is to be commended for the work they did in making sure bare conductors are a thing of the past in most new electrical installations.

[@Harrison2253]

That type of receptacle is geared for the home owner and I'm sure plenty will be sold. However they are more expensive and you won't see many or any contractors using them for that reason. Also the "connection points" while fast and easy, they are not as good as screwed connections which have been around since receptacles came into existence and a proven way to effectively terminate wires on a device. The key to a solid connection with a wire is "pressure" and "surface area". With a "screwed connection" the wire "hook" around the screw is completely sandwiched between the head of the screw and the flat brass area it gets pulled against on the device . Once tightened its not moving. A "pressure connector" or a WAGO connector does not exert the same amount of pressure to the wire and the wire is much shorter than the "hook" giving it less "surface area" as well. These are the two key difference's between these types of receptacles. When you start running 12 or 16 amps through these receptacle's, connections matter. It takes more time and skill to "hook" your wires and "screw" them to the receptacle but its worth the effort.

[@DaruDhillon]

Thanks for sharing your insights on the benefits of screw terminals. They go the distance!

[@DV-tc1yr]

Very good reply and so accurate. Ty @harrison

[@quantus5875]

You do bring up a good point -- cost alone is a reason professionals won't use them -- professionals -- screws are nothing -- so why spend the extra dough. For DIYers I can see the value, especially if you can get them for $2 a piece.

[@michaeltaylor5939]

Lever nuts have been proven with reproducible testing by multiple organizations. The load capacity is comparable to wire nuts, and the strength of the connection is stronger and holds more weight in a hang test. The only thing that's better is solder and heat shrink. The only time I've seen them fail is when they are not used properly, which can also happen with wire nuts. I have no problem with them being integrated with receptacles or switches. I haven't seen it myself, but I've heard they hold up to screw terminals with shepherd's hooks.

[@Harrison2253]

@@michaeltaylor5939 "I haven't seen it myself"...........I have

[@russwd1]

I really expected these to be more expensive, but $21 for a 10-pack is very reasonable!

[@DaruDhillon]

That's so true. I expected the same thing but was surprised too! If you have the time let us know what you think of them. All the best!

[@yzmoto80]

I love the idea of the keys on the receptacles to speed up alignment in multi gang applications, that’s a welcome feature for sure. It sure beats setting the switches and receptacles going by the screw slots. Dead center on the screw slots of multiple receptacles, or switches, will usually get you well into the happy zone.

[@user-ty2uz4gb7v]

I'm not sold on lever terminals over screw terminals. I've used the Wago lever connectors to install fixtures and outlets and I noticed flickering, early life bulb burnout, delay on bulb turning on. I don't think the lever provides good enough contact, where as the screw can be tightened down hard.

[@michaeltaylor5939]

Lever nuts have been proven with reproducible testing by multiple organizations. The load capacity is comparable to wire nuts, and the strength of the connection is stronger and holds more weight in a hang test. The only thing that's better is solder and heat shrink. The only time I've seen them fail is when they are not used properly, which can also happen with wire nuts. I have no problem with them being integrated with receptacles or switches. I haven't seen it myself, but I've heard they hold up to screw terminals with shepherd's hooks.

[@sundogaudio851]

i remember tearing out old backstabbed outlets after failures. nothing beats properly screwed terminals for good contact.

[@DaruDhillon]

I hear you. Property installed outlets are great. Appreciate your insights because it’s true.The challenge is knowing all the steps to properly secure the terminals.

[@blipco5]

Yes, the old back-stabbed receptacles are an electricians dream. Not for the installer but for the repairman. They absolutely will fail and somebody will pay you to replace them. Money.

[@johnlehew8192]

My whole house used the back stabbed connections, never had a failure in 27 years in a 3000 ft^2 home. Probably 65 plugs and 35 switches. Guess others had bad luck compared to me

[@cbaxter6527]

@@johnlehew8192 Maybe lucky with the brand/model. There is risk of arcing with single point small contact, screws (smooth interface) also can back off over time from repeat high current use plugs with heating cooling cycles. 1970's was bad for aluminum wire and burning down houses. I had an issue when a lazy electrician used back-stabbed switch and failed in 5 years for only 200W lighting (4x50W 12V halogen pots). There was visible arcing but worked again once correctly moved to the screw terminals.

[@blipco5]

@@johnlehew8192 Were they back-stabbed or rear wired? And if back-stabbed, we’re they under heavy use? And we’re they through wired or pig tailed?

[@jackspencer8290]

Good video. I'd like to point out that in many homes, such as my own, which is 30 years old, the wiring is not necessarily white and black. I have yellow wires, for example. The way to find hot is to turn the circuit off, disconnect the wires, physically separate them, turn the circuit back on, and check with the voltage meter. (You can also leave them connected, and just unscrew the receptacle to get access to the hot/neutral wires.) It's the only way to be sure.

[@DaruDhillon]

Good points Jack! Thanks for taking the time to help people out with this because it happens. I show how to do this in my GFCI video but not here. You have good advice!

[@dotter702]

What do you do when you need to have two wires connected to each terminal so as to continue the circuit to the next outlet?

[@DaruDhillon]

You can always choose a regular outlet.

[@nathangardner772]

I’m in any one of about 10 Home Depot’s 3-4 times per week for the last 10 years at least. Those things got put on the discounted end cap of the aisle in no time after they came out. Probably not more than 2 months. They’re constantly sold out of the 20 amp decora receptacle ten packs for a reason. I haven’t tried this new style yet but I’m guessing a lot of other guys haven’t either. I think people like the feeling of twisting the screwdriver and actually feeling the torque when you tighten it. I’m confident of the connection.

[@darkandstarrysky5175]

Nice! I was looking for what exists along the line of 'box extenders'. Had installed a GFCI in bathroom years ago, but never seated it in wall properly, was trying to correct that, and discovered the old metal box has some load wires coming in from the side, that stick into the box so much that the GFCI can't be fully inserted. Am looking to find a non-conductive material to safely extend the metal box. Nice presentation! Thank you!

[@DaruDhillon]

@@darkandstarrysky5175 glad it helped. It’s good that you are taking the time update your electrical. Great job!

[@standtall7646]

I've been using Wago wiring systems for many years. These are a great improvement in the household electrical wiring and safety field. As well as more convenient and easier to install. Such a beautiful lady! :)

[@DaruDhillon]

Love the feedback on the Wagos and updates. You’re in good company! Thanks

[@standtall7646]

You're welcome, Daru. @@DaruDhillon

[@pvt.2426]

I haven't seen one of Daru Dhillon's videos in a while. So glad that this one randomly popped up. I was not aware that these 'new receptacles with levers' were available. Thanks for being a content creator and producing this for our benefit.

[@DaruDhillon]

Welcome back! Good to hear from you. I’m glad you enjoyed the video. More to come. I appreciate to taking the time to say hi!

[@Richard-mz7qu]

Outstanding! Thank you for this great find and installation tutorial. I just swapped out several light switches in my 30 year old home. The electrical connection screws had become a bit loose and the lights were randomly flickering. (Not good!) I clicked on your Amazon link and I was pleasantly surprised to see (at the time of viewing 18 Feb 2024) $3.50 USD a per unit. I can't wait to obtain and install these. Thanks again.

[@DaruDhillon]

Thanks for letting us know Richard and for the price update. It’s good to know.

[@Technogeek-rc6us]

MIND BLOWN !!!!! Total game changer! I won't go changing all of my outlets, but I'm going to use these from now on. Thanks for sharing!

[@harryshaw4998]

Amazing just amazing. It's about time someone came up with a safe way to wire an outlet. Old days electrical tape was run around the side to cover the screws

[@sundogaudio851]

screws were already invented.

[@geraldslonaker3289]

Now if they could just improve how toilet seats are fastened to the toilet LOL

[@yiannimil1]

@@sundogaudio851 true but brains? thats another matter

[@daltonx6177]

​@@geraldslonaker3289it already does, you didn't know ? 😎

[@daltonx6177]

And why on Earth would you need need to cover the screws ??? I sure hope that you switch off the breaker when you install a switch so where's the problem ?

[@tatoute1]

This means safety sockets that exist since >20year in europe and are now mandatory by code, just appears in US. There are many other safety measures awaiting to be used in the US. For example: - every circuit must have a 30mA differential breaker from the main pannel. - metal tubes and boxes are forbidden as any error may induce electric shock - aluminium is not allowed - all breakers are 2 ways (cut live and neutral) - plugs do not allow to touch live or neutral (or to short them) even if they are not plugged completely... etc...

[@tommiller2303]

I still like to fasten wires with screw terminals, though I prefer the type where you install the wire through a hole the back. The Wago type only provide a pinpoint contact that is held by spring tension. This may work at first but after many years of high current (slightly less than rated) they will fail.

[@scottrule3456]

As a professional I no longer use Wagos. The point of contact in a snap connector is extremely small therefore limiting current carrying capacity. These are not safe under fully loaded circuits. Just my experience and opinion, been in the trades 38 years now, "quick and easy" never lasts.

[@1packatak]

Yet they are UL approved and have been used all over Canada and Europe for years.

[@DaruDhillon]

Thanks for sharing your take Scott. It’s important to hear all perspectives and experiences.

[@DaruDhillon]

This is important to know. They have been tested by US and Canadian regulators and are UL listed.

[@clutteredchicagogarage2720]

I wouldn't use Wagos on an outlet where you could potentially plug in something that draws high amperage -- e.g., a hair dryer. I am 100% comfortable using wagos when wiring up something like LED ceiling lights that I know will draw very low amperage. For example, canless 5 or 6 inch LED ceiling lights draw about 10W (I see some ranging from 8W to 14W). Ten watts draws less than 1/10 of 1AMP (or 100mA). If you strip your wire properly and do not deform it then you will have plenty of contact area to carry that load. The connector will not heat up, and I would bet that it would function safely for over 100 years. On the other hand, I would not use Wagos to wire up 20A outlets in my garage where I sometimes operate corded power tools because I agree that there is less contact area in a Wago vs a *properly-connected* wire nut. Having said that, as a non-electrician, I have had to fix electrical circuits in multiple homes over the years in which professional electricians did not properly connect wires with wire nuts. I agree that a *properly* installed wire nut connection has less resistance than a Wago, but I would bet that a very large percentage of wire-nut connections in residential homes across the USA are poorly installed with wires that aren't stripped to the correct length or wire nuts that are too loose. I've probably seen it a dozen times.

[@bhauseur]

Wago's are amazing. I've watched plenty of videos regarding large loads on Wagos and they perform very well.

[@jenniferblackwelder7591]

I am ABSOLUTELY thrilled to see these!! High resistant connections (HRCs) are way too common, cause fires and will not trip a breaker!! HRCs are caused by loose connections at contact points such as terminal screws or when you go to plug something in and it doesn't stay in tight. A terminal screw that is too loose OR has been overtightened (over tightening can cause the treads to stretch and loosen up over time) is a bad and common occurrence even done by electricians and or their helpers. Terminal screws are supposed to be tightened to a specific torque and it is not common practice to use a torque screw driver!! These are not only great for DIY's but for electrician companies as well; especially if they have young helpers that don't have much experience. Even if I would have an electrician work on my home I would insist that these are installed. Along with AFCI breakers, of course, because they detect HRCs!! I bet these cut down on AFCI "nuisance" trips that cause electricians to remove AFCI breakers!! Thanks so much for posting!!!!!

[@DaruDhillon]

Good to hear your thoughts on this, thanks!

[@FORTRAN4ever]

I like the WAGO connector but found that the tabs can release when installing the receptacle into the box. The Ideal connector fixes this problem by having an improved, two-step locking mechanisms. These connectors are UL listed.

[@DaruDhillon]

Thanks for sharing your advice. I’ll look into this. Appreciate it!

[@ironmartysharpe8293]

Hello Daru , Thank you so much for your compliments , I believe this receptacle is made by Leviton and Leviton has been around for a long long time , Definitely a technological breakthrough , and no worries about any part of the receptacle grounding out against a metal box , Next thing that would be nice Is to have these lever connectors built into light fixtures to make installation easier and faster because reaching up to connect wires together can cause your arms to fatigue but of course you can use the Wago connectors , Don't forget to go to your local electrical supply and pick up a circuit breaker lockout along with a warning tag and a small padlock , I'm just looking out for your safety because when working with electricity , Safety is number one priority , Especially when working on a ladder and locking out and tagging out the circuit breaker is your best defense against electrical accidents , Like I said I'm just looking out for your safety and I definitely don't want you to get hurt because you're such a wonderful lady , I just want you to be safe and I'm a very strong believer in lockout tagout

[@jeremiahpowell3028]

Do they make these outlets in gfi outlets?

[@jeremiahpowell3028]

I need some my self for my new house I’m buying next month

[@DaruDhillon]

Would be great if they did. Not yet. If you want to learn more on GFCIs I have a video that can help you out. Thanks for the question it’s a good one!

[@DaruDhillon]

Congrats on your home! That’s awesome

[@FreedomAndLiberty2024]

I love it! I have a dimmer switch I need to replace - I wonder if this technology is available for dimmer switches. Thank you for making me aware of this.

[@DaruDhillon]

Glad to hear you like it! This isn't available in dimmers yet but we'll keep you posted. Good idea.

[@unclegeorge7845]

Interesting product. I'm not a fan of Wagos. Wagos and these recepticles look like they'd work fine in light to medium loads but I want the security of a screw in heavy loads. (Kitchen, bath & garage) I will not install the older "push to connect" system which this product looks to be an upgrade. For the last few years I've been using only the hole style wire receiver but with the screw they just seem far more secure than the toggle system.

[@DaruDhillon]

The screw in ports are also good like you say. Thanks for sharing your experience with the connectors.

[@jefffree6990]

Good job! my house has those metal boxes, so even with electrical tape wrapped around the terminals there can be problems if you have to really push things around. BTW Sometimes its better to just clip off the ends of the wires rather than straightening them out.. You need to get them really straight and that can be tough or they can even fatigue and break...

[@quantus5875]

Yes, these outlets are definitely a winner if you have metal boxes.

[@michaelwells7348]

Great idea... like U said .. less points of failure ... mean ( Less Failures ) ...... especially with those metal boxes where hot is right next to it...

[@DaruDhillon]

You know it! Good to hear from you Michael

[@jimb8738]

Yes ma'am, these are the way to go. I actually just installed these in my house which was repaired and upgraded after tornado damage. They're pretty awesome and easy to install.

[@EngRMP]

OMG, what took us so long to develop these receptacles!!!! That looks fantastic. As a 67 yo elec engineer who does my own home improvements, I'm hooked. Great job on your video... you covered all of the important issues. I love that you don't have the shock risk when handling these in the wall. And, so genius in the way these align side-by-side. My only question is whether a normal sized outlet cover will cover these or whether you need a jumbo size?

[@keytothegate68]

This Wago stuff was used in west Europe for many years even decades. I think in U$ the twist nut makers did not want to give up their monopoly on their business. But I haven't seen the outlet/switch with built in Wago clamps inside until now. It looks promising.

[@EngRMP]

@@keytothegate68 Wow, interesting. I will say that I did run into the potential problem identified by one reviewer: I was using the Wagos recently to connect three wires together and then to a light. As I was stuffing the wires into a cavity (bigger than a box) one of the levers must have been bumped and popped open because the light didn't work when I tested. Of course it was easy to find and easy to fix. So, I'm still sold on this lever approach.

[@lgumbiner]

Good informative video except she should have explained why the old outlet had two sets of black and white wires. Were there two separate circuits which would require the removal of the copper tab in the back or was the old outlet being used as a junction to continue a circuit? If it was the latter, then the two sets of wires should have been connected together and a pigtail used to connect the new outlet.

[@DaruDhillon]

Thanks for the feedback on this.

[@number6photo]

Wago’s being used successfully for years in Europe doesn’t necessarily mean they’re safe for use in the USA. Europe uses 240 V, so the current drawn by the same devices is one-half of what it would draw in the USA with our 120 V supply voltage. It’s current that causes the heat when the connection becomes resistive, so the USA (and Canada that also uses 120 V) need to ensure we end up with roughly half the resistance in our connections compared to Europe in order to avoid thermal issues. An electrical connection with more surface area in intimate contact between the two conductors will have less resistance than a connection with less surface area in intimate contact. Intimate contact means air-tight, which keeps oxygen from corroding the conductive surfaces and building up resistance. High clamping force helps form more intimate contact. A tightly-torqued screw terminal can exert enormous force compared to the spring contacts of the old rear ported receptacles. The lever almost certainly creates more force than the old spring contact, but likely falls well short of a tightly-torqued screw.

[@DaruDhillon]

Thank-you for your feedback on this!

[@wyldanimal2]

What keeps the Box Extension from being pulled out? @4:00 to @4:20 that Org Box was quite Deep behind the dry wall, @4:35 to @4:55 and there was no physical connection made between the plastic extension box and the Org Metal box to keep it from pulling out.

[@DaruDhillon]

When installing the outlet I used extra long screws to secure it to the electrical box. I have a box extender video linked in the description if interested. Thanks for the question I’ll show that step next time.

[@donmacon586]

I been waiting for this product improvement. It is perfect. Nice presentation! Glad I found you. definitely subscribing .

[@DaruDhillon]

Welcome, glad you found us!

[@progression_decibel]

These are great, I put one in my house to give it a whirl and it really is both a time saver and easy install. I'm a Lutron guy for lighting switches/dimmers but I hope Leviton comes out with more Edge receptacles for GFCI and such. A HUGE HUGE wish item is WiFi or Z-wave enabled smart Edge switches and receptacles!

[@halrichard1969]

Thanks for the Update. I had no idea. New sockets are great.

[@rgr3427]

Is it worth it to me: YES. Thank you for taking the time to do this video, I had no idea these were out there, clean, simple and well thought out design, especially the 2 gang setup !

[@DaruDhillon]

Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks! I agree that feature is really smart.

[@tiger8linny788]

Love those receptacles, love this video! Thank YOU for reinforcing my drive to “do it myself”❣️🐅

[@robm3063]

At the 4 minute mark she quite possibly smoked something in that house. Does anyone know if at the homerun box for that part of the room the electrician didn't pull a 14/3. Two hots sharing a neutral. That's why its important to pigtail your outlets. Now I can see in this box there's just the one circuit so probably ok, but if there was another hot buried in the box not good. In newer homes with all of the ARCH fault breakers not so much of an issue as they all need their own neutral. When you open a neutral on a hot circuit and something is running on said circuit it needs a way for power to get back to the panel. That power jumps onto the hot wire and you end up with 220 volts on the wire. I know this as when I was an apprentice back in the 80's we went to a service call in the subdivision we were working in. I was first year and didn't know any better but it was real quiet when the foreman opened the panel and saw none of the neutrals were tightened down. Over time they stopped making contact. I never heard what happened, but I think Gibson Elc bought a house full of replacement appliances. Every house in the Chicago market up till 2007ish we ran two hot one neutral. We pipe everything here in EMT so that hot/neutral sharing saved room in the pipe.

[@benkanobe7500]

How much surface area is in contact with the wire in these new outlets? Many of us have the choice of using the screws on the side for better contact area and ampacity compared to the push-in connection that is available on most 15 amp outlets. This new outlet is convenient and safer when using metal boxes and I like the indexing for side to side, but for power it seems to have the same "problem" as exist with present day outlets with push-in connections especially when multiple outlets are daisy-chained.

[@DaruDhillon]

If someone is able to install screw terminal outlets properly and will invest the time in learning how to do it then screw terminals are an excellent option. They are reliable when installed correctly. The issue this addresses is that so many outlets and switches are installed poorly and that's dangerous. Surface area contact would be inline with UL Listed standards and regulations for US and Canada.

[@benkanobe7500]

@@DaruDhillon Remember, "code" is minimum. And yes, after 45 years I can install a "screw terminal" properly. "Regulations" are minimum. The question to you was about comparative surface area (read "resistance") between these new and really cool outlets and screw terminals. If they have the same surface area of contact of all the push-ins before, then Leviton let us all down and didn't improve the electrical function, just a bunch of very nice convenience functions. Thank you so much for introducing these to me. I will look for opportunities to use them in multi-gang boxes. Just like 10 amp breakers, there is a trend due to LEDs to not focus on the resistance of an electrical interface (anymore).

[@d.l.harrington4080]

I have trying to find that electrical box extender but the only thing I am finding is is the old style add on and not one that fits in the metallic box like the one shown. I did find one that fits nonmetallic boxes. Any ideas? As far as the outlets, I/we will have to wait for our DIY stores to get rid of their old stock before we get these. It is good to know that Amazon is carrying them.

[@DaruDhillon]

My local store didn’t have them either. I have a link in the description box to my Amazon store where I get them. You can click on electrical and they will be there.

[@deanrhodenizer938]

Thanks. Nice to hear Canadian English Wago LEEver nuts. I haven't seen this type of receptacle before; it seems to be an improvement on the old stab lock connectors. And I particularly like the breakout tab (for independent circuits) is covered as well. I am not sure if there was any improvement made to the Tamper Resistant slides. The slides do not always operate smoothly, especially when a receptacle is used in dusty conditions and also used infrequently. I like the forced correct spacing feature as well. The one thing I would have done differently from you was to connect that ground wire last where it was a bit too short - that eliminates the extra connector and a possible point (however unlikely) of failure. Subscribed.

[@DaruDhillon]

Thanks the sub and sharing your thoughts on the new receptacle and TR feature. Agreed the alignment is a nice improvement.

[@quantus5875]

@@DaruDhillon Alignment is probably the biggest advantage. I've worked on some -- and with the old ones -- that's the biggest pain in the behind. Screws are a little bit of a pain -- but not that much, you get good at them super fast.

[@MoonbeamAcres]

Oh yes, I LOVE these plugs and now plan on getting them for my build. Now I am, going to watch your GFCI plug video! THANKS so much!

[@DaruDhillon]

I appreciate you sharing your review of the outlet. I’m glad it worked out. I feel the same way.

[@wurlabyscott]

Put a one of these in the attic while hot, carefully took wire nuts off, clipped wire one at atime not to short anything, already placed pigtails in plug then just used wago to wire in the plug.

[@winstonsmith1222]

What a great upgrade/idea. Are there any that have built in USB? And I like the idea of the night lights that are part of the plate, but without exposed screws, I’m assuming those will not work

[@DaruDhillon]

That’s a good idea. Not yet. We’ll keep you posted on all updates

[@jmason011mason5]

Looks ok but I have one problem with the design. Why is the ground wire on the hot side not on the neutral side like it would be a major failure point in the design

[@DaruDhillon]

That’s a good observation and question. Why did they move the location of the ground?

[@annacao661]

Thanks, would you please give us the link where to buy it? What brand and model number?

[@DaruDhillon]

Hi Anna, the link and outlet information is in the description box. Thanks!

[@docw6055]

I think this is great idea as long as it has been engineered better than the old push in back connectors that would always fail (I ended up rewiring every outlet in our last when they just started failing one after another). Also, I would like it if there was an option to buy these without the tamper proof “feature.” When we had the kitchen remodeled in our current house, we couldn’t plug anything into half of them! I just swapped them all out after the inspector left 😊

[@DaruDhillon]

Thanks for sharing your experience. I’ve heard that some don’t like that feature. I understand it for seniors. Was it a particular brand that wasn’t good? Or in general? Curious.

[@docw6055]

I’m pretty sure we used Leviton fixtures.

[@user-hm5zb1qn6g]

ha. good point. As an adult with no kids, I loathe TR outlets unless it's something that's always plugged in like the coffee maker. Anything that has to get plugged in as I go - a tool, a shop vac - what a pain in the sss.

[@DaruDhillon]

@@user-hm5zb1qn6g good to hear your opinions on this. Thanks for sharing !

[@davecangelosi9688]

Don't buy tamper resistant outlets, they are dangerous. People push too hard on them to plug into the outlet and cause the outlet to bend until it shorts out. This is an example where a codes don't make logical or practical sense.

[@salembeeman370]

New job on the video. Unless I missed it you didn't mention the built in wire length gage on the corner. This makes sure you strip to the correct length. Love these new switches. Can't wait for the light switches with the traditional level. Right now I only see the rocker style of switches.

[@DaruDhillon]

Good tip, thanks. Comes in handy!

[@bernlitzner2739]

I really like the five conductor Wago's. They are great for multiples grounds.

[@DaruDhillon]

Good tip! They are great. Thanks for sharing that with us. It's important to know what you like!

[@tchevrier]

those receptacles are a really good idea. The only concern I would have is that if you split the outlet you still have a shared neutral. It looks as if the outlet only separates the hot wire.

[@johnpoldo8817]

Why should we care if the neutral wire is not split? You cannot run two circuits to this outlet so total current is limited to 15A.

[@tchevrier]

@@johnpoldo8817 Yes you can. Shall I refer you to the 3:00 minute mark?

[@snaggerboy]

I am a 30 year electrician, although these seem really cool and safe I agree with Scottrule on the connection and load capability.

[@DaruDhillon]

Thanks for weighing in with your thoughts. Appreciate your perspective!

[@Echo3_]

I want all of these in my house! Question for you. I have a bunch of those screw-in boxes that turn a 2 outlet into a 4 with usb ports. they should sit flush to the wall but they have like a quarter inch gap, this makes them wiggle back and forth when you use them - is there a way to set the outlets back a little further so they sit flush?

[@quantus5875]

Yes, for $2 ea. totally worth it!! If they were like $5 each, I'd say no -- the old ones are a slight pain in the ass -- but you do get to be really good with them after installing a few. But yeah for $2 a pop -- yep worth it!! Great video btw! They didn't have these when I did all my outlets -- but one good choice I made was installing the largest possible electrical boxes they sold -- that was a good one -- oh such a pain if you working in a small box with tons of wires, something that you should maybe cover in another video -- even better than your extender tip.

[@tabithafranklin8750]

I will absolutely use these! Thank you!

[@DaruDhillon]

Thanks, I’m glad you liked it.

[@charlesrichardson8635]

I use WAGO. This change is less about safety but about lowering labor costs and more consistent wiring outcomes. I would call Tamper Resistance a far better safety upgrade.

[@DaruDhillon]

Thanks for sharing your thoughts on this! I like the TR too.

[@blueribb99]

What happened to the metal box and how is the plastic extender box secured? I watched the video twice but didn't see that step.

[@DaruDhillon]

Thanks for the question. The box extender is secured with two extra long screws. They screw into the two mounting holes top and bottom on the metal box which stays where it is.

[@jaycahow4667]

@@DaruDhillon Maybe you should have showed that in your video.

[@DaruDhillon]

@@jaycahow4667 good suggestion for next time, thanks! Here's a video on how to install box extenders and fix bad drywall to help: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eHPFqHeQfLymesUsi=APiI6z8ICSgUT99n

[@larrydaniels6532]

Open your eyes.

[@jaycahow4667]

@@larrydaniels6532 Close your mouth.

[@AWARHERO]

I was expecting the price of these receptacles to be around 10$ or more each... But at 3.99$, it's a damn good thing. It's about time they finally upgraded this thing.

[@davidparker2173]

Did that steel box get swallowed by the wall with wires going through it, or had you pulled it out? I will never know unless you tell me. One still needs a box with these don't they? I would like to see a brand new installation with this new stuff using a box fastened to a stud, which I also believe is required. One never wants dingly dangly stuff but wants everything solid, and straight up. I am a novice who just wants to get it right.

[@xonx209]

Do these type of connector make good contacts? What do they look like inside?

[@DaruDhillon]

That would have been done by UL Listed inspectors and regulators in the US before this device was released. They would have made that determination about safety.

[@cinemaipswich4636]

Where is the on/off switch? Do you have to go to the switch box to turn off something? Are you wrestling with a LIVE plug, when turning off something?

[@DaruDhillon]

Always turn your power off at the breaker and check with your voltage tester.

[@ProudDadVet]

Pro Tip from a Licensed Electrician of 30 yrs... when you have 2 or more sets of wires in a box, attach a "tail" to each set. This creates a "parallel" circuit as oppose to a "series" circuit, meaning that the circuit has to run THROUGH the outlet in order to continue down to the next device. If that outlet fails, all the devices down line will no longer work. A parallel circuit taps the "hot" to energized each individual device so if it fails, only THAT device fails and the rest of the circuit continues to work.

[@DaruDhillon]

Thanks for adding your insights on this. I agree it’s a much better way of wiring. Something I personally didn’t know early on but it makes complete sense. It’s a smart way of wiring. Appreciate you sharing this helpful information with us!

[@jz6782]

Are these ARC fault compliant? My understanding was that screw down terminals addressed issues with press fit not always making a secure connection.

[@patrickhayes6823]

❤ I definitely love this design. I also will be looking to find who sells these. So I may change each and every One in my House as needed.

[@DaruDhillon]

I have a link in the description box with all the details. They are a game-changer for replacement.

[@chetmarcotti4953]

This is awesome.I used to sell lots of outlets at Home Depot. People are going to love the convenience

[@DaruDhillon]

Glad to have your take as someone who's helped a lot of DIYers! Thanks

[@rcauthen324]

My house is old (built in 1955) and uses BX wiring with no ground wire. Is there any precautions when using this type of outlet and wire combination?

[@DaruDhillon]

Hi I don’t have experience using BX wiring so I can’t weigh in here. When in doubt check with a licensed electrician in your area.

[@rcauthen324]

@@DaruDhillon Will do, thank you! PS Great video!

[@bigdog44b4u]

Excellent video. This is the second time you have popped up into my feed, I am so glad. As someone who has the old style and has had shorts due to touching wires and metal this will be welcome as I replace many of the old; I do think I am going to subscribe now. Do not want to miss other great videos.

[@claudeostiguy8659]

Very good improvement, is this updated required by the electrical code? When should we see this connection method propagate into the wiring devices? Thank you for your presentation. Claude

[@DaruDhillon]

These outlets are UL listed and approved for US and Canada. So they are code compliant. They are helpful to people looking for an easy and safe way to wire. Traditional outlets are excellent when installed properly but they are tricky to get right and take more knowledge and care to install. Thanks for the question Claude

[@docsngl]

Thanks Daru, i like the safety factor and ease of installment of the new receptacles.

[@johnlehew8192]

I love these plugs, replaced all plugs and switches with these bad boys. Sooooo fast to install. 5 minutes per plug to replace vs 15 minutes with the regular ones.

[@DaruDhillon]

Glad it worked out for you John. Thanks for sharing your experience! It’s important that people get reviews from homeowners like you.

[@Bond00016]

thats all good but how do you add outlets in parallel if you want to add multiple outlets side by side if one 1 wire is going into the socket ?

[@DaruDhillon]

You can always use a standard outlet.

[@Bond00016]

@DaruDhillon so it's not a groundbreaking advancement it thr current standard can replace the higher priced alternative 😉

[@DaruDhillon]

@@Bond00016 for homeowners wanting a safe and easy to install outlet it’s a game changer. They can feel confident installing one on their own. We’re going to see more of this.

[@Bond00016]

@@DaruDhillon yeah I'm not buying it ... if you Wana add outlets either get an electrician or do it your self ... but I'd never want to be limited by technology.... that just doesn't make any sense

[@John13Edge]

So when you leave the jobsite and all the other trades are finishing up and they keep cutting through the wall opening or the drywaller on a Friday afternoon tired of cutting for your boxes cuts a crooked hole…so with these overly tall devices you can no longer straighten the look of the two gang box…does the other trade get blamed for the crooked box …nope….these style of connections work ok solid copper but for stranded wire not so good so in piped in outlets where strained is pulled in instead of solid you either do the little anti fire dance and say a prayer that the stranded wire stays tight in the lever joints….add wire nuts and solid wire tails adding to your box fill and adding another possible joint that could fail because we also have bad Friday afternoons…or we pull solid wire and that goes over like a lead ballon..

[@sneaquie8587]

With the box extender do you need extra long screws to fasten the outlet?

[@DaruDhillon]

Yes you do. They have to connect to the electrical box. I have a video tutorial with all the details on box extenders if you need more info. Thanks!

[@thomasgraves9940]

This is best outlet for people who don’t how to do a proper install

[@robertcochran7103]

Thank you for posting this excellent video. I really appreciate it. I have some familiarity with those types of connectors and I really like the ability to connect wires in the way you show in the video. I'm going to look for some of these new outlets because I have the opportunity to improve one part of my home.

[@DaruDhillon]

You are welcome!

[@darylstuck3028]

I can’t wait to try this receptacle. It would save a ton of time, especially when you have a whole house to do.

[@DaruDhillon]

You’re thinking ahead and it’s true. Massive time difference. It will be interesting for you to try out!

[@TexasEngineer]

Where are they made? Who makes them? Are they UL listed? How much do they cost? Does the top snap off to use in a handy box? I noticed that the ears are missing, why? Explain the use of the ears on top and bottom of a normal outlet and why they are missing? Did you remove the captured screw or was it no longer captured?

[@DaruDhillon]

Yes, they are UL Listed for US and Canada. I talk about the straps and the cost at the end of the video and product details are available in the description box. You can snap off the top and bottom of the straps with your pliers if needed.

[@jcor-laura5450]

I have been using Wago instead of wire nuts for a while now and asked electrician friend why he didn’t and the answer was cost. I can’t believe something that is pennie’s more but safer and more secure is ignored for that reason. I am imagining these outlets will be the same way unless consumers start insisting safety is worth a few bucks more.

[@glenwilson9351]

I would definitely buy these instead of the old kind. Thanks for posting this!

[@ramonbennett8416]

I had three return service calls to a house, that had these installed, the remodel company incorrectly installed them and it melted plastic leading into the wire hole. Make sure the wire is all the way in.

[@DaruDhillon]

Thanks for taking the time to comment. Anything can be installed improperly. It’s important to install all electrical on your home carefully like you say. Appreciate your advice Ramon.

[@spdcrzy]

I think a big thing to address is how to start integrating USB (and USB-C EPR, specifically) into modern wiring. USB-C runs at 5V but up to 48 amps. Most household outlets are still 120V15A (at least in the US), which is simply not enough for certain use cases anymore - especially with the advent of EVs in homes. Ideally I'd like every single circuit in my house to be 240V30A capable, and for each plug IN each receptacle to be 120V20A capable. But then running a 50A capable wire along each 20A wire PER plug is a loooot of hot wires with a lot of insulation. I worry if that's even thermally responsible unless the installation has minimal slack in the wiring to allow them to be as straight as possible.

[@mitchellkasdin1899]

Why is the outlet daisy chained? I only do this in a 2 gang box if it’s tight. I’m not a big fan of back stabbing the outlets and I use the wago terminals for temporary fixes.

[@DaruDhillon]

It’s existing wiring. The levers have rear ports. Thanks for your thoughts!

[@mitchellkasdin1899]

@@DaruDhillon true, but I prefer to pigtail and wire nut three wires, that way if an outlet goes out the later aren’t effected. Daisy chaining is okay if you want to put a GFCI as the first outlet, then the rest of the outlets in series are protected without spending money on every outlet

[@DaruDhillon]

@@mitchellkasdin1899 That's a great way to think ahead. Smart tip!

[@Handyman247llc]

This is a huge game changer for all, Yes I use Wago's and have used the new receptacle once. So quick and easy. (even a bind chimp could install one) Thanks for the well made Video.

[@DaruDhillon]

Thanks Handyman! Appreciate you taking the time to comment. They sure are easy to install. BTW I love your avatar!

[@conniediperi4837]

Great outlets and nice job explaining the installation. You did mention some outlets have only two wires (black & white) besides the ground. Which terminal do you install the leads? Or do they have replacement outlet with only two terminals?

[@DaruDhillon]

You can use this outlet for that type of installation. You’d just leave the two empty levers in the locked position. There’s a diagram that comes with the outlet to show you how.

[@sammas7440]

These are maybe easier to install, but are they really safer? The screw terminals provide more surface contact and the "lever" style are only pinpoint contact.

[@andrewfaniku]

I’m learnings lot from your videos. What an impressive combination of brain and beauty! I’ll hire you over any guy any day!

[@DaruDhillon]

Thanks Andrew!

[@commentsonthetube14]

Is the tamper resistant feature in this usable? I avoid those because the ones at the big box store are such a pain to use.

[@DaruDhillon]

I like the feature for safety but you are not alone in not liking them. Good to hear your take on TR.

[@martharamos8833]

Hello Dear thank you very much for your information could you please tell as where can get it what store or coming is selling this Thank you

[@DaruDhillon]

Hi Martha! There's a link in the description box for Amazon. Their price is competitive. You can also pick them up at your local hardware store though prices vary. All the best! Thanks for your question Martha

[@scottmochinski5447]

I love everything about this video. There are always going to be people resistant to change. Progress is good. Past product failure does mot predict future product failure.

[@K6TJO]

How much physical contact exists between the lever connector and the wire? I fear not enough contact exists which would create higher resistance/heat between the two.

[@DaruDhillon]

I’d have to open it up to find out. Next time.

[@a.dejesus792]

I must say that I think its very worth it to change all of my outlets. Thanks for the info. But what about light switches?

[@DaruDhillon]

If your outlets are installed correctly with standard screw terminals they don't need to changed out unless you want to. Light switches are also available too and are easy to install.

[@jaimedpcaus1]

These look great 👍. Do they also come with usb-c ports? Thanks 😊

[@DaruDhillon]

Glad you like it! Good idea, they should come out with usb-c. Something to look forward to...

[@jaimedpcaus1]

@@DaruDhillon 😊👍

[@bigallis1]

Thank you for telling us about these outlets.

[@DaruDhillon]

You are so welcome!

[@joels7605]

Yeah those are way better. And the improvements just make sense. Why did it take this long?

[@DaruDhillon]

Good question! A lot of people would like to know.

[@wendellbays6439]

Great idea great idea safety first or not at all something to live by

[@DaruDhillon]

Very true!