New Holland 1411 PT4

This video is about New Holland 1411 PT4

[@franferrario7425]

Thank you Wes for the series, for making it available to all of us for FREE! Hope you keep making this type of videos that are instructive to us all, especially to the farmers that are trying out new machinery. Giving us courge to tackle our own machines.

[@Centennial_farms]

I love these videos, these are the way videos were back years ago. No explaining to the trolls, not worried about who commented what. Just good videos of Wes working. I love it, videos like these are what got me hooked on OLF’s channel years ago. Great job!!

[@holv2279]

I absolutely enjoy seeing you fix all kinds of machinery. Impressive. Thank you for sharing all it.

[@kevinwillis9126]

I was just getting into watching that Wes. Now we have to wait till tomorrow.. Thanks for sharing..

[@nectcruiser]

I had to laugh when you hooked that second wrench on to loosen those bolts, I've done that for years and have never seen anyone else ever do this until I saw you the other day and again today. To my knowledge no one ever showed me this, I just figured it out probably like you out in a field fixin some broke farm machinery with just a roll of wrenches and 2 bent screwdrivers oh ya and a hammer. Good series Wes I never worked on these so its interesting to see how it all works Thanks

[@hturbo1007]

Alf anderson II I had to laugh also, because I do the same thing.

[@davyjones232]

A lot of guys do that. I do that same thing by using two wrenches....but I push with an OPEN PALM hand to avoid hurting mu knuckles when the wrenches slip.

[@tooez90]

I use the box ended wrenches on allen wrenches all the time for extra leverage

[@snoopdogie187]

Many mechanics do this, its very common. Its the easiest way to get more leverage when you need it. I also do this with ratchets since I haven't invested a lot of money into getting good, long ratchets yet.

[@clearingbaffles]

Alf anderson II Sears replaced a 9/16" combination wrench The guy gave a strange look as it was bent/twisted about 45 degrees The TORQUE 3/4" Multiplyer was a Craftsman

[@buckhorncortez]

"Planned obselescence..." Yeah, just like they planned the input shaft being round so that baling twine would wrap around it more easily...

[@chadharmon5716]

I think I've learned more about this guys mower than he does at this point lol

[@agriman86]

Great educational video series again. Thanks!

[@GerraldFarms]

Nice info on cutter ready to see more. Thanks for sharing.👍🏻

[@adrianburdess9221]

First class great watch Wes

[@canvids1]

knowledge pays off. Great instructional video Wes.

[@HNCahoon]

Very educational video series. I like the way you tell it like it is. You might want to mention a few products you've gotten in the past: For instance, the shop lights, the grease-zerk tool that stays on while you are pumping grease from a reservoir with a foot pump, TireJect, and other unique products you have talked about before. This might encourage manufacturers to send products to you. The way you handled the WD40 account was brilliant! Still laughing when I think of the video. I think I'll go back and watch it again. LOL

[@stanleyjones4180]

great video wes thanks

[@kristinacarr1676]

When this style bar came out we had customers complaining about streaking. We found it was caused by the cup type bolt protector. The stem would hang under the cup knocking down the crop. After working with NH we came up with a socket head bolt it worked well at stopping streaking.

[@dewainwoodard4840]

Great video Wes thanks for sharing have a great day

[@dejanira2]

Getting tougher to get underneath the equipment as we lose our youth.

[@markgamble8377]

Hmm tea cup nice.i have been replacing the bolts on my 1990 Kuhn from time to time.that bolt looks same.

[@MailFarmBoy]

Great video series 👍. Where can I find the T-Cups to order??? Thank you!!!

[@farmworkMi]

Great work glad you are almost ready

[@jankotze1959]

Great learning video

[@mikenicholson2548]

Great job Wes thanks for making it clear great info

[@robertthornhill4379]

hi good video 10/10

[@leol1682]

Thanks like video 10/10.

[@jassonmathews1333]

I’m sure someone is going to bitch about how you linked those wrenches together for more leverage. Those will be the people who have no clue what it’s like to work on equipment.

[@donwoltz712]

i like all your videos watch them all keep up the good work for all the naysayers tell them to start their own utube channel thanks

[@Ham68229]

When disc mowers became popular, I used to be envious of those who had one... until the day I went to my local JD dealership for a few extra sickle guards and sections. Spoke with a fellow hay farmer who had his machine in the shop, turns out the gear box exploded on him, said, basically it destroyed entire cutter bar. No offense to those that have these, but, I'd rather stick with the old sickle mowers. Break a section or guard, only down maybe 10mins tops. Wes, you really should invest in those "garden seats", I have one with pneumatic tires, can roll it around anywhere and one huge knee, back saver!! Way better than those shop roller seats.

[@lukestrawwalker]

Yeah the first ones were a grenade waiting to happen-- no shear protection against disks impacting heavy stuff, and virtually all of them back then were gearbed type cutterbars. These modular cutterbars are WAY more robust and if something DOES go wrong, you're fixing one module or twisted off quill shaft, which is cheap... or a shear hub (which is about $40 bucks or so from New Holland for these... Kuhn shear hubs are about $250 bucks because it's the entire gear/bearing/shaft/bearing hub/disk hub assembly, and they don't sell the parts individually, which is why I won't buy a Kuhn...) The modern disk mowers have come a LONG way from the first ones. I know when we were ready to replace our antiquated Ford 501 sickle mower back in the late 80's, we had two choices-- a first generation non-top service hub Kuhn (or an equivalent New Holland, which was just a Kuhn machine painted in NH colors at the time-- the old 416/417 mowers) or our dealer was also selling PZ Zweegers drum mowers built in Germany (IIRC). We had a Ford 640 combine built by Claas in Germany and so I knew from experience that German engineering is second to NONE and so I was more than willing to take a chance on the Zweegers drum mower. When I looked at the design, it was also easier to tell which would last longer and be more durable... the Zweegers has the gearbox up about 2 feet off the ground, and only had 6 bevel gears in the entire gear train of the mower. The Kuhn/NH disk mowers had *23 gears* in the cutterbar-- a pair of bevel gears to input power from the belts into the cutterbar through the drive gearbox, and then the rest was disk drive gears, with 2 idler gears between each disk, all running in a common sump bar case running right on the ground UNDER the cutting knives, with just skid shoes and "bullet noses" between it and the dirt... The drum mowers are pretty well bulletproof... we're still running the drum mower we bought in 1988 or 89 all these years later... We've only had to replace the input gears once and belts, and the skid shoe saucers underneath once... everything else (except blades) is original. Can't beat that! The only problem with drum mowers is that they are not very wide... we got the widest one at 7.5 feet... which was the same width we had in our old 501 mower sicklebar. Reese made some wider drum mowers with 4 drums instead of two, and I think the PZ Greenland (after PZ Zweegers merged or was bought out years ago) made some slightly wider 4 drum models, but our dealer didn't stock any... The 3 point disk mowers can be had up to about 10- 10.5 feet IIRC and some even have conditioners if you want them. The modern disk mowers are designed with shock hubs to protect the cutterbar and internal parts from damage if something is hit... the design of which varies by manufacturer-- NH uses 'Shock-Pro" hubs that only have 4 splines which shear if something is hit; Kuhn cuts a slot into the drive shaft under the turtle mounting hub so if it hits something it twists the shaft off and tosses the turtle out the back. Krone is probably the best, because they use a threaded hub that screws down onto the shaft, then a steel roll pin is driven in to lock the hub to the shaft... if the blades hit something solid, the roll pin shears and the shaft spins inside the hub, the hub runs back up the threads and freewheels, lifting the blades out of the path of the adjacent disk's blades on either side, so they cannot collide despite being out of time... The disk is retained on an unthreaded upper portion of the shaft, where it can spin freely til the mower stops... not sure if they use a C-clip or bolt and washer or what into the end of the shaft to retain it... to fix it, you spin the hub and disk back down the shaft, align the hole in the hub with the hole in the shaft, and drive in a new 50 cent roll pin... no expensive broken hubs or more expensive broken shaft assemblies to replace like NH and Kuhn, respectively... Don't be afraid of the modern disk mowers-- they've come a LONG way from the early models, and once you experience the ease of use and speed of a disk or drum mower compared to the old sickle bar machines, you'd never go back! Later! OL J R :)

[@hzgts308]

Had a bad run with our 1412. Spent a fortune having the cutter bar rebuilt, then the gearbox shat itself a month later. $5,000 AUD for a replacement. Said goodbye to that machine very quickly.

[@markgamble8377]

o my.learned a lot from this.i see that u joint with grease fitting.im afraid to look on mine now.a grease fitting didn't know was there.

[@Ravolta]

Wesley, how do you remember all of this stuff? I mean sure you have done it a few hundred times but still.. It's somewhat amazing that you can go from refurbishing a Model A to rebuilding the 4960's gearbox to fixing a 1941 Ford truck and then fix a mover for a friend. :D

[@michaelellis6405]

any idea where to purchase the tea cups?

[@kayleneforrester9383]

Thanks for the series on this cutterbar service. I was wondering if you have had any issues before with the “bolt , bushings “that hold the cutterbar on wearing out and causing the cutterbar to settle down enough for the input shaft to bind and break the gear box case that drives the cutterbar. Also thanks for the teacup I saw you mention that a few years ago and did the upgrade to my 1411 and 7230

[@anniereilly80]

👍👍

[@4gauge10]

Wes,you might want to mention the"modification"to your friend,he just might take you up on it.

[@mikegoodman447]

He's fixing it because his friend let him have some free hay. If he fixes it to good the friend won't need him no more and there goes all the free hay. Besides if he converted it he would have to take all them things off and install all new parts which would make the "free" hay kinda expensive. In this case cheap and easy is the best fix.

[@4gauge10]

Mike Goodman Nothing like friendship...😀👍

[@4gauge10]

Mike Goodman Nothing like friendship...😀👍

[@jamesmckay9966]

Wes, What does the Tower do? Jim in Boise, ID

[@lukestrawwalker]

Towers or "top hats" as they're also called serve two purposes-- 1) they keep hay from winding around the shafts in these pull type cutters where the gearbox is above the cutterbar and connected up with a U-joint shaft, and 2) the transport the hay cut by the end disks over and around on top of/with the hay from the second disk in... this leaves a clean, clear path between the edge of the cut swath and the mown hay, so on the next pass the skid shoe is not running into previously cut hay. It also helps on conditioner machines to feed hay into the conditioning rolls, and also to separate hay cut by the disk from uncut hay just beyond the outside disk, so that the swaths are separate (or to separate it prior to uncut hay being fed into the conditioner rollers or flails). 3 point mowers typically have "top hats" that are a solid round 'drum' with a couple angle-irons welded to them to help move the hay around them, and are removed by accessing the bolts in the top of the outside disk through a hole in the top (usually). Pull type mower-conditioners typically have "towers" that are sorta like 4 angle irons upright welded to rings on either side, so the bolts can be accessed from the outside, since a shaft goes down the middle making top access to the bolts impossible... Later! OL J R :)

[@leebuck180]

thanks for the 1411 series. ok, I have heard your take on the "ramps" on the turtles, I noticed that the 1411 you are working on has right and left blades. is this the way its equipped? I'm asking because the New Holland 411 (which looks the same to me) has flat blades, any blade will work on any turtle. the 411 in my youtube home page is not mine, the owner lets me use it in return for "swapping work" with him.

[@dakotabeuerlein1443]

have that same 1411 and the nicest disc bine eveer

[@OnefishTwofishROC]

Oh how I wish I was mechanically inclined....*sigh*

[@jenniferwhite6089]

never to let to find a book on it and never have too many parts new in hand for the tracker and machine 2 years ago we build a new building to house the new parts it amazing how much parts you have we have for each machine we have its own place in the part building we have a full-time person to look after all the parts we use now it, their job to have the stock on hand and reorder what we need for the big jobs that we do a major repair, they do have to order all the new part find the books and all the info on the machinery we do custom work on the side for the dealerships too they will bring use a machinery to repair or just part it out for use parts pay very good but a lot of time to identify the parts afterwards with part number and what it came off of some time it a new machine they need the parts from

[@TheMuskokaman]

First!

[@connorfield6177]

I got the same mower but newer we replace all of our blades every year

[@nsgkuaov]

Connor Field good on you we replace all our blades every time they ware out about once a week or every 3 to 4 hundred acres depending on condition we gave up turning them years ago as they only last half as long and it is as well to change them out as it is to time consuming to be changing them for that little return we use the half worn ones as field replacements when we break or lose blades

[@brianwebber7168]

Wouldn't it be a NUT CUP?

[@stuartsplace100]

i have learn a lot from watch your vids wes

[@stuartsplace100]

good taste in tools wes,craftsman

[@kevinguthrie466]

That's the brother

[@josephboley]

Good morning Sir

[@storminnormanz]

when you take those things off what do you do about the extra hole? just leave it or stick a bolt in

[@nsgkuaov]

storminnormanz just leave it by the way I have 18 of them somewhere that never saw an acre of crop took them off when I got it for exactly the same reason that Wes did but I had to destroy a bed before I figured it out,got at least twice as much out of the second bed. When we took the original bed apart to repair it the ware was unbelievable that bad that replacement was the only option. Have gone for krone now they have the option of light angle lifters that are light and ware but easy replaced and don't cause premature collapse due to excessive ware.

[@lsellclumanetsolarenergyll5071]

Your website is pushing out error messages... any idea ??

[@MrVailtown]

Is it "Junk or Junk-Junk".

[@tristonthefarmer3176]

What tractor do you plan to run this haycutter

[@paulcopeland9035]

Ask the neighbor.

[@teglho]

No, Wes said he was going to cut hay with it himself to prove it was fixed. Go watch Part One again.

[@tristonthefarmer3176]

Terry H oh ok

[@farmerchris1]

How do u keep from rounding off grease zerks on that double u joint, we put new ones in at first of year and grease it good then a few days later they are round off and won’t take grease

[@dakotabeuerlein1443]

that is the only problem with that machine I run the same one and have the same problem

[@lukestrawwalker]

Put in a 90 degree fitting and turn it with the zerk end facing backwards from the direction of rotation... that way it runs in its own "wind shadow" and should minimize wear and dirt from grass and hay rubbing it when turning... Later! OL J R :)

[@1995jug]

Wes you know your shit on disc mowers wish I had t-cups on my Kuhn mower the nuts are always worn.

[@ustinman8446]

Good wrenching ! Question Wes, Why don't you use a round bailer? To me it seems less problems. No knotters and string. Just cutters , flexible belts, mesh rap.

[@America-First2024]

UStinman 84 Tonnage of hay. The bale weighs more. Bales per field in shorter amount of time. More bales hauled per load. Easier to stack. Ironically I just watched the video when he was explaining his reasoning. 👍🏻

[@warp275]

It comes down to logistics, you can stack them easier and you can get more hay one a truck, plus there is a lot more hay in each bale especially with his baler.

[@nsgkuaov]

Money it's way more cost effective at the volumes that he's at.

[@advandervelden1588]

Comment

[@ihguy2113]

looks similar to th e vermeer and laylee cutter bars

[@lukestrawwalker]

Yes, all are modular... Lely designed and built the Vermeer bars for Vermeer... not sure how that's gonna work now that Lely got bought out by Agco... Lely and Vermeer bars were identical, not sure about the future... Later! OL J R :)

[@kenmurphy2051]

Why would you give this a thumbs down.

[@America-First2024]

Ken Murphy It was probably the designer/engineers at New Holland that give the thumbs down.

[@tommypayne1980]

Tighten the bolts to German Spec GUDandTight

[@clearingbaffles]

German for virgin

[@davyjones232]

PUSH the wrenches with an OPEN PALM to avoid rapping your knuckles.

[@MichaelDavis-rt1qk]

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