New Machine Day! Sellers 6G Drill Grinder

[@philipreich7035]

Hi Keith, I was taught by an electrician to do the taping the opposite way of what you have done. First wrap in pvc/plastic electrical tape, and then cover that with the friction tape. The reason is that the plastic electrical tape is a better insulator, but it is not as durable against abrasion as the cloth friction tape is. So this way the friction tape acts as a protective cover for the plastic electrical tape. Back before the plastic tape was available, and the self-annealing rubber tape was used, it too was covered by the friction tape. One other tip he taught me was to never tear the plastic tape -- always cut it. That way the adhesive on it won't get disturbed/distorted which can cause it to unwrap over time. Since I started cutting my plastic electrical tape, I have never had it come unwrapped. Before I learned this tip, I would often find the outer layers partially unwrapped when I went back into the electrical box. I hope this is helpful. Cheers from Oregon, Philip

[@ESaboHowGravityWorks]

I'm an E-1 Electrical Contractor with 40 years experience. The way he did it is just fine. 6 of 1, half dozen of the other.... No big deal.

[@gavinmclaren9416]

40 odd years ago I worked in a boiler shop. We had a couple of big radial drills and a very similar grinder for sharpening the big drill bits. Our grinder looked and worked very much like your new-to-you Sellers, although I can't remember the make of my old shop's grinder. As an apprentice one of my tasks was to keep the drill bits sharp. We would drill literally thousands to tens-of-thousands of holes while machining tubesheets and baffle plates for heat exchangers and condensers. Most of these were 3/4" or 1", but occasionally larger. As such we would build up a fair pile of dull 3/4" drill bits (and some 1"), and from time to time I would take a half day or so and sharpen them all up for re-use. I can well remember how sharpening would provide a nice break from hour after hour of hole drilling. It was monotonous but well-paying work and our shop kept about a hundred men busy. In those days, we usually had a backlog of six months or more of work booked. I wonder if this sort of industry still exists at all, anywhere, in North America, or if we have lost all of it to Asia?

[@paulkinzer7661]

Thanks, Keith, as always, for not assuming your watchers know what we don't. The explanation of the motor starter was really helpful!

[@mudnducs]

As an old marine electrician…it made me smile to see NO PECKERHEAD on that motor! That setup was made for maintenance! The motor came out SO easy and requiring for low voltage couldn’t get easier access. Nice!

[@peterhobson3262]

I was impressed that there was a wiring label giving directions to adjust for 440 and 220 voltage. That's not always the case.

[@darenscott1718]

As an industrial electrician I was a little peeved to not see a pecker head. Especially in an application with lots of conductive dust.

[@davidc6510]

What is a peckerhead?

[@cemx86]

At 10:33 - About the key moving around instead of staying in place. I think I saw one of these grinders and the key was not just a simple rectangle but had two "tangs" at either end that prevented the key from moving in/out. Machining that part from a larger key would be easier than trying to drill and tap some holes which, obviously, the factory didn't do.

[@blue-runner]

Keith, sharpened hundreds of drills on that machine as an apprentice 50 years ago. With care does a great job. I thought I remembered a dresser that swings over from the side, may be wrong, old brain cells.

[@cyrilhudak4568]

Keith purchases a Vintage Machine and is surprised that it takes a little more work than expected to get it running.😊

[@russkepler]

The other function of the motor contactor is to shut off the motor in the event of power loss. This keeps the tool from suddenly starting when the power comes back.

[@propulsar]

Love the renewal of old time expire components with fresh new ones giving an old machine a new lease of life.

[@rightlanehog3151]

Keith, A new old machine is always a thrill.

[@darikmatters8866]

FYI, all the SqD Thermal Elements are still made and available through any SqD distributor (Graybar is a SqD distributor and has stores in Ga and Fla). This is an old design so find the oldest counterman in the building and they will know how to find it in the SqD system (it took me a few minutes to find them as the production system syntax is different than the way it is written in the tables). I always preferred the old style GE started over the SqD

[@cyclebuster]

Keith i have a few dozen NOS heaters you can have. Also i have a few other things i was going to send, if you want them

[@richb419]

Hi Keith, don't forget to check for faults to ground on the motor. I guess the way you wrapped the motor leads is ok, the way I was taught was first varnish cambric, rubber 130C then scotch 33. good idea to change the starter, nice install. Rich

[@BigAl4502]

If you wrap the cambric sticky side out, when the need comes to remove the tape, it will cut away with no mess.

[@srgraham9172]

Looks like a retirement project, oh wait Keith, glad you take these projects on. Even happier they you show us what you’re going through.

[@Garth2011]

Sure is nice to see the old reliable old machines that were made for plenty of work. Look how old that motor is and it still works 100%. the machine itself is rugged, heavy metal and not going to change how it works for a long time. Once it receives its tune up, it'll be ready for another hundred years of high quality and reliable service.

[@robertlevine2152]

This is a 220V machine.

[@Garth2011]

@@robertlevine2152 It's also a 440v 3 phase.

[@CothranMike]

@@Garth2011 And since 440 3ph is not available where Keith is... he works with what he's got. In fact he is using converted to 3 ph with his tools. That means only 1 or in some cases 2 machines at a time can be powdered on.

[@bcbloc02]

@@CothranMike Keith has a 3 phase panel like my shop with the phase converter powering it so he can turn on every machine in his shop at the same time if he wants as long as he has enough amp service to supply it.

[@CothranMike]

@@bcbloc02 right, he mentioned, depending on HP one or two, maybe three at the same time or more as long as they are not active at the same time.

[@jasonlacey5979]

It is a real pleasure to see someone of your caliber at work. First class

[@pdxRetired]

I like how the motor is mounted. Actually pretty simple to remove and replace.

[@seldendaniel8819]

I always learn something new when I watch Keith.

[@robertlark7751]

I have a 1G grinder gifted to me by a friend, who also has one, that is great, but finding replacement wheels is a pain. Luckily my friend found a seller who had wheels so he bought all they had. Now we both have spares.

[@hodwooker5584]

You should use varnished cambric tape as the first layer of tape. Cambric will pad the screws and prevent the screws from punching through the rest of the tape.Then use the Friction tape. Friction tape will leave a gooey mess for the next guy to deal with if used as a first layer. You can use the friction tape as shown.

[@RichardHassett]

To prevent the key from sliding out of the center support, take a little longer piece of key stock and press fit a dowel pin near both ends. Easier than drilling and using screws.

[@accuracymark]

As a electrician, what you did on the hook up is perfectly fine. Problem with tape is it will break down eventually in an oily environment. I would in vest in some heat shrink tubing. Much easier to work with and better insulation. Plus doesn’t leave that sticky mess if you have to take apart

[@pjaj43]

As a retired electrical engineer I would say friction tape for electrical purposes went out of use "before the old king died" (a UK saying meaning ages ago). I haven't seen it in years. It was going out of use when I started my career 60 years ago. Another problem with it was, it dries out and starts to fall off. It has been completely replaced with plastic tapes and heat shrink tubing. The only use I can think of these days is to wrap the handles of tools and various rackets and even then there are better products.

[@silasmarner7586]

@@pjaj43 I say "since the earth cooled" but yeah.. heat shrink is the stuff. It's important to have a superwide variety of diameters ...

[@snaplash]

Tape's advantage over shrink tubing for reconfigurable wiring like this is that it's easier to remove by unwinding it. Shrink has to be carefully cut off to avoid damaging the wires it covers.

[@csterett]

Keith likes to make things look as original as possible. Friction tape was used back in the day so that's what he stays with

[@pjaj43]

@@csterett Oh I'm well aware of that, but he also frequently incorporates a bit of modern technology into his restorations. He will add safety features for example and I was just thinking that this was just such a case for improvement over the past. We no longer have unshrouded belts, gears, saw blades or chains either.

[@johndebrular979]

Looks like your shop is getting full. Might have to consider adding on for more floor space.

[@Hoaxer51]

I was going to comment and say the same thing but I checked the comments out first. I’ll just have to give you a thumbs up instead, have a good one!

[@tonyn3123]

I really appreciate the level of detail in your video for this. As an old man, I am still a newbie to high voltage and three-phase electrical connections. I may not totally understand everything, but I did learn something. Thanks.

[@paulputnam2305]

I’ll say “Professor”, You sure know your stuff! Awesomeness Extreme

[@tsmartin]

For future reference making some guide pins by cutting the heads off from a couple of long bolts will make reinstalling that motor less of a hassle.

[@noelhenderson7337]

There was a type of rubber tape that typically went onto those connections first. Then the friction tape. The plastic tape came along later. Over time the rubber tape fused itself into a blob that was quite difficult to remove. The friction tape was probably called that because it was relatively abrasion resistant, compared to the rubber tape.

[@AnvilDragon]

It's called self-healing tape in the US and it's still used on outdoor / wet areas, most often power poles, then the friction tape to prevent abrasion. I rather dislike plastic tape as it's temporary and not moisture or UV resistant (future sticky mess).

[@user-fu1bh3dt2c]

A very important aspect is missing here, unless I missed something. A most important measurement when using a drill point grinder is the distance from the fingers locating the flutes to the face of the grinding wheel. Since the flutes are spiral, moving the bit in and out will change the angle the bit is ground at, resulting in bits that may not have the proper geometry. Most drill grinders I have seen have some feature to assure the drill bit is properly spaced vs. the wheel face.

[@jimfiles3307]

Keith, you have an excellent museum collection of a good example of the tools used to build this country. Congratulations on finding another great piece to add to your collection. I would like to see a single video showing all of your collection. I’m sure someone out there would have additional information on parts or history of how they used it.

[@mabmachine]

This is the first demonstration I've seen of a Sellers grinder. Nothing wrong with it but not near as elegant as the Oliver 510 which can do both sides in a single setup.

[@bencartee2113]

That key was probably shaped like this > ]

[@miken3260]

Hi Keith, I had a friend that was an electrician and explained it this way. On the heaters, if there is a little gear or ratchet on the side the heater is made so that its cross section will only take its design amperage without heating up. The gear is on a shaft that’s a press fit into the heater body. If it heats up the heater expands allowing the shaft to turn and release the catch holding the contacts. You may have noticed that sometimes they won’t reset for a couple of minutes , they have to cool down to lock the shaft.

[@marclattoni1959]

Thank you for a clear explanation of the motor and switch setup. Always interesting to watch a Keith Rucker video.

[@russcole5685]

Watching from New Zealand. That is a very nice looking machine. Should be a great addition to your shop

[@farmallpaul4518]

Thanks, Keith! Really looking forward to seeing this one back in service!

[@TomokosEnterprize]

I enjoy the way you go through a new to you machines. Calm, cool and collected. No screw not investigated or removed for painting.There is something really nice about a brand new looking machine comming to the floor. Are you getting tight around the floor now ? Bit by bit I am looking forward to see this returned to it's former glory. Just plain liking the way you approach these new to your world. Onward my friend, Onward.

[@dlfabrications]

I like those old tear drop handles, gives the machine the feel of heavy duty quality.

[@ericcsuf]

Not being an electrician, the only time I ever used friction tape was to tape the handles of baseball bats. Gives a nice non-slip gripping surface.

[@bchrisl1491]

Good video. I'm sure soon all the drill bits in your shop will be "crispy" sharp like the way bits feel when new.

[@dianelabelle6939]

In Canada we call friction tape "HOCKEY TAPE"

[@2dgsep]

I was going to say the same thing. Keep your stick on the ice and if the women don't find you handsome at least they you handy..

[@peterparsons3297]

amazing that still works, goes to show its the way they made stuff back then, all that cast iron just to sharpen a drill

[@bcbloc02]

I shure could use that for a week or so to sharpen my big bits.

[@petegraham1458]

That’s going to be an interesting restoration, I am looking forward to watching it. The machine is a nice to have and I am sure you will get use out of it keeping your and the museums big drill bits most fellow just make due with carefully grinding them by hand, may not be as accurate as this kit once it’s restored but it keeps the job moving to completion.

[@RRINTHESHOP]

That will be a very useful tool for your shop. Nice.

[@davidc6510]

Congratulations on the new toy Keith and thanks for sharing the valuable information on how to make sure your motor is properly wired for the voltage that is available in the shop! Another great video!

[@tpobrienjr]

Thanks for the sho and tell. The Motor Starter discussion was a bonus - thanks.

[@chestertownelectric6290]

Friction tape gets hard as it ages, forming a shell. The adhesive on vinyl tape often gets gummy with age, causing the tape to fall off.

[@josephhagler5145]

I picked up a flywheel grinder that tripped the start switch.I did not know about the heaters.Now to look at it again.

[@rudiweewee6945]

I use the German Kaindl DRILL GRINDER BSG 20/2 and can use it for drill grinding from 2-20 mm. Best regards Rudi

[@tpobrienjr]

My frien Marty said, "Nothing difficult is ever easy" and I guess he was right.

[@TradeWorks_Construction]

I think the method for insulating Electric motor lead connections was one of those processes that got passed down from the early days before electrical grounding and ground fault protection were in place. Now in days, the danger of a phase line making contact with the motor housing and subsequently making the entire machine it’s connected to electrically energized is far less of a safety concern than when there were no guards in place. I’m sure taking the approach of SAFETY OVERKILL and BETTER SAFE THAN SORRY were lessons learned the hard-way. Interestingly enough the connections themselves don’t require much to be electrically insulated (I think 1-2 wraps of modern electrical tape can even achieve this). The zealous wrapping and buildup of different insulation materials are partly a throwback to when rubber strips were used and then secured with a tape/adhesive(or other) but MOSTLY was done to prevent potential vibrations from causing a wear spot in electrical lines rubbing up against other elements in the connection box.

[@wlogue]

Thanks Kieth, whenever I use them roll numbers I like to put clear shrink tube over them to help the next guy. Who is usually me! Cheers.I prefer the kind with the glue in.

[@919Drones]

Keith, great purchase. Looks like the shaft (11:18 in video) you said was repaired is croaked. Centering pin does not look inline with drill bit.

[@bigjarn]

Another item is a center grinder or truer. We had one at Brown & Sharpe in the cutter grinding department. Those taper-end drills are notorious for rolled-over ends.

[@brianjonesg8aso403]

I live the friction/cloth tape idea, but I would have used heat shrink after that, and covered the lot with large diameter heat shrink. The problem with electrical tape is that it doesn't like oil etc, but I am sure you already know that.

[@evanharriman5352]

LOVE new machine day! Can’t wait for the restorations to begin 🤓

[@jackgreen412]

I would raise the pallet jack up to a sturdy table. Working down/low on the floor is ridiculous if you don't have to.

[@jamesreed6121]

Kind of looks like a giant version of a Craftsman Drill Bit Grinder. Can't wait to see it in action. KOKO!

[@PaulSantillo]

Hi Keith, Another great video, I think the original contactor box was original I suspect they just changed the contactor inside, the holes in the front were wher the start stop switch was mounted, all contained in the one unit Best wishes Paul in the UK

[@Mad-Duk_Machine_Werkes]

My building for my machine shop has TWO panels, the 208/220v 3-ph panel IS IN FACT Red, Black and Blue like you mentioned, but my OTHER panel is 277/480v and it's all Yellow-Brown-Orange...... Just my overhead lights and AC units are 277 - everything else is 208/220v

[@parsias5381]

Happy for you, new machine day!

[@richardsurber8226]

Yes, Thanks Keith. Good review on amps and protection

[@robertrowse1028]

Saving more old iron. Always a good thing.

[@cemx86]

At 28:25 - (I know lots of noise from me today) - I guess I would use the thicker variety of heat shrink tubing (or two layers of regular).

[@stanleybell2672]

Keith, great video, please make a video on the coolent pump as well. I am in need of starter motor accessory hookup knowledge.

[@richardmerrill4036]

Think of heaters as slow blow fuses. On start up the motor inrush amps can easily go up to 5-6 x nameplate. But the heater is supposed to mimic the guts of the motor heating up slowly as it runs under load. Also , having the starter heaters in the same environment as the motor is important. Otherwise you can undersize or oversized the heater to compensate.

[@barry7391]

The correct pronunciation of Diehl is as if you're saying ."deal", I know this because a friends father worked at a Diehl factory down the street from where we used to live and that's how he pronounced it. Nice video!

[@johncloar1692]

Nice grinder it look like a great addition to the shop.

[@RobertFay]

*- My bet is; The assembly would move easily (with the key in it at **10:00**} if the damn rust got cleaned off the slid arm.* *- The reason the key was missing is because, to move the assembly part with a rusty arm, the shop learned to twist it back and forth like Keith did at **8:40* *- Please, Keith, clean all the rust off all your machines so they will work easily and smoothly, with more accuracy and precision.*

[@davidwatsonii9469]

FOR DOIN AS LIL AS YOU DID TO GET HER FIRED UP, WE KNOW YOU CLEAN'EM UP AND REPAIR THE THIS AND THAT, ANOTHER BEAUTIFUL PIECE OF THE COLLECTION

[@masteruniverse3506]

These 3-phase motors are beasts!

[@Tishers]

You may not like to do electrical, but you do a good job of it.

[@argee55]

Looks like a solid addition to you collection.

[@jsteifel]

I hope you greased the zerk fitting for the motor bearing while you had it out. It probably is getting dry in there and t hose are big bearings.

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

That’s a heavy duty beast.. nice addition 💪💪

[@marvinschleicher5542]

I have used friction tape then put rubber tape over it to water proof it.

[@Paul-o2p]

As Watch Wes Work says "It's only temporary unless it works"

[@amateurshooter6054]

Thanks Keith

[@timziegler9358]

I certainly enjoyed this video on grinding drill bits! Thank you.

[@timf6916]

Nice, Good job

[@Dwarfracer88]

cover all your numbers with clear heat shrink.

[@SettledBatches]

8:20 - Niagra Falls!

[@someguy2741]

For the key I wonder if they had a foot on one end of the key and then drill and tap the other end of the key for a set screw that sticks up and gets caught as the sleeve slides. Alternatively you could take keystock and put a foot on both ends with your forge. That would be a nice old world solution.

[@Dusty-Builds]

Old machines can be fun and problematic at the same time. I have a suggestion. The lower shaft that holds the tail end of the drill bit could be threaded to close the slack once the sliding block is tightened .

[@bigalhudson]

Might have been worth mentioning on the re wire to check the motor is running in the right direction and if not swap around two of the phases. (I think that’s right no expert here). Nice machine 👍

[@dfye55]

With the slop in the drill holding mechanism, I didn't think it would be possible to achieve that first grind.

[@bigjarn]

The key for that slide is a drop-in key with 30-degree wings

[@ddblairco]

yeah, new machine!

[@clydedecker765]

You might want to check with Adam Booth. He has a grinder similar to yours and talked about his needs for those bit secure bolts...

[@markzimmermann3441]

We use heat shrink and lace cord in aviation 😉

[@BlankBrain]

If you can't find the other drill holder sizes, it will be fun to watch you machine them out of billets.

[@markchodroff250]

Looks great ! Just wipe it down with mineral spirits and dry it good !

[@mrfarmall-vk4gw]

Nice machine, looking forward to seeing this thing tuned up👍👍

[@bigun447]

The famous WD-40. An old Tanker Yanker (now departed) hauled WD-40 from their plant down on the Mississippi River to California when the new plant in CA was not making product up to snuff to can. He said it was explained to him it was mainly de-scented kerosene. We got WD-40 back in the early 60s when it was a secret solution to clean missile parts. A friend got it when he was an instructor in the care and feeding of Air Force missiles.

[@RicktheRecorder]

It used to be labelled "Rocket WD-40".

[@philipheinhold5340]

Great video as always Keith👏

[@DavidSellars-b8l]

Great addition, Keith. Any idea on when it was built? I am very interested in the restoration process. It really is a crying shame that so many old machines end up as scrap or left to rust away. They may be old and outmoded, but they would do well for a lot of us that lack functioning machines. A big question here is when the shop addition will happen. There is just so much room in your shop and it is already straining at the seams.

[@johnwenzel9252]

Thx Keith!

[@truracer20]

The tape layers must be equivalent in thickness to the insulation of the wire.

[@markchodroff250]

Great job on the wires ! It’s good for another 100 years ! LOL

[@DAKOTANSHELBY]

Keith, I missed your standard video introduction for new machine day being "Look what followed me home".