New Milwaukee Tool Accessory Will Change The Way You Work FOREVER!

[@jimbudro6624]

In my experience, when drilling steel, lower rpm and easy on the pressure. Like all others have said, heat kills bits.

[@Colaaah]

Agreed, and use of a cutting oil...

[@SuperAngelles]

I want to hear what Milwaukee has to say about the pilot bits failing. Packaging says heavy metal, that L beam is heavy metal. WHAT SAY YOU MILWAUKEE, Leave a comment here in the comments section.

[@mfros008]

Second this

[@Colaaah]

Agreed! To think that they would have done their testing, very disappointing...

[@jordanbrown1170]

IMO, pilot bit should be through the material before the hole saw starts cutting, a pilot hole or thinner material(1/4") would probably work fine.

[@Colaaah]

Totally agree!

[@fatlouis085222]

I use my impact for almost everything. Very rarely use my drill.

[@blaznmax8877]

I've been drilling holes for years let me teach yours little trick light and sweet.. reduces the heat. Heat kills bits

[@sig1014]

Low speed always drilling metal no matter what... You will burn up the bit in no time

[@stanley4006]

SIG 101 it’s amazing how many people don’t know this. I tell my guys this all the time some listen and some I have to tell again and again. When the employer supply’s the bits some people just don’t care

[@joshbenton810]

I don't have time to spend 4 times as long drilling at 450 RPM compared to 2000. Use cutting oil

[@danieltaylor8159]

@@joshbenton810 if you understood how to drill metal properly then you would know that its faster if you drill the correct way, for the majority of drilling holes in mild steel you want low speed, and high pressure. Think about how a drill press works, low speed and high pressure, it's called a drill PRESS for a reason lol with hole saws it might be a little different but not much. Also I'll just use a mag drill and rotabroach when possible.

[@kevinboyle4340]

When drilling heavy metal, I was taught to periodically clear the fines off the bit - back it out to remove metal particles and run it deeper - repeat a few times depending on the metal thickness .. Similar to running a tap ..

[@dwainetyncompany]

Bio Scene Cleaner here. I really appreciate the work, Vince. You have no idea how helpful your content really is. Milwaukee is always what I'm reaching for... and it's not because it's red....

[@halrhoads6194]

Once the cup starts cutting even a minor bobble or flex can break the pilot bit when going through thick steel. The pilot bit offers one stress line and the cup offers another stress line which can act like a lever against the pilot bit. Try this: put the hole saw in a drill press and then try cutting that thick angle! If it works.....problem is with the operator; if it doesn't work....the hole saw pilot bit is inferior. Give it a try!

[@VCGConstruction]

Good feedback, we should try that!!

[@BryanBowenArchangelBarachiel]

I would say impact driver problem or bit material. Though best to try in drill no hammer or dill press.

[@matthewshannon6946]

Brother- I know that a man of your experience knows that drilling with any hole saw in most materials (even wood) you have to pull the holesaw out of the work periodically to clean out the gullets between the teeth. Once the saw is clogged up with the material you're drilling through it's worthless untill you clean it out. Love your vids! Keep it up!!!👍👍

[@TheMcdrewb]

Matthew Shannon yep...

[@joekoy7495]

Me think when they say "heavy metal" they are referring to Metallica CDs

[@Colaaah]

haha

[@dudeman650]

These are not for heavy metal. As an electrician it's really useful to put a hole in panels and boxes, all of those are 14 ga or thinner and go through like butter. I only use them for this purpose especially since the pack that Vince has is 45$

[@VCGConstruction]

They ain’t cheap!! Do you think a single high quality step bit would be a better purchase?

[@whatthehvac4908]

Like the shockwave step bits??

[@carlosleal3728]

I use these bits quite a bit. As a electrician, they're great for related conduit hole sizes in metal boxes up to 3/16" thick. They leave a very clean tight hole size. There cutting teeth per inch is high when compared to a standard regular metal cutting hole saw. This is what improves the finished hole size outcome. However, if you need to cut heavier metal gauges, go to a carbide tooth hole cutter in all instances.

[@christopherbratt2614]

heavy metal u have go slow speed to let the bit bite

[@ajdamalos6593]

Only way to go is carbide set from greenlee best money I have ever spent! Spring does work.

[@TheMcdrewb]

Aj Damalos true dat...When someone asks to borrow a whole saw to cut a can I give him those Milwaukee shockwave bit so I keep the greenlee in my packout

[@snowyed109]

I like them for cutting into panels. Spring doesn’t always work though.

[@TheMcdrewb]

Eddie a yep the 1” will warp once hot too but I think they are handy when it’s 1 hole and 1/4” impact ready

[@SuperAngelles]

Easy work around the spring not ejecting the slab. Put a flat washer over the drill bit larger in diameter of the spring greet your bit to the material your cutting. Usually this will help to prevent the ejection spring from binding into the material.

[@meagaindave2049]

I just love seeing the power tools put to use regardless of the results. Thanks, Vince and God bless! 😁

[@VCGConstruction]

Thanks David again!!

[@petethehandyman9185]

Those are only for thin gauge metal,no way will they cut that 1/2” steel, good job pushing them to their limit!

[@VCGConstruction]

Thanks Pete we appreciate it!

[@joeshearer1247]

They need to take that I beam off the package

[@VCGConstruction]

Yes son, possibly!!

[@raul0ca]

Replace with a ream of paper

[@xenonram]

When the pilot bit drills it's hole, and it's in a very rigid material like ½" steel, it is locked in place laterally. So when that saw begins to bite, and it puts a lateral load on it, it shears the bit off. It is almost like drilling a hole into ½" steel, with a regular twist drill, then whacking the side of the bit sideways with a hammer.

[@sparkydstoolboxtalk1024]

I've been using these for two years working on Union electrical jobs, they are awesome. I haven't used them in an impact yet, my contractor doesn't like to buy impact drivers for us, so I can't speak to that function, but in a drill they cut panel tubs, and large junction boxes like butter. The pilot bits are definitely the week point in the whole saw.

[@sancheztroy3556]

They work awaome can actually cut right through the cinsentric ko's on a 4sq and not push them in (up sizing 1/2 to a 3/4 or even larger) they're great, brother local 68

[@avrohompam5601]

Maybe if you first drill a pilot hole it may be able to get through the thick steel

[@thevikingbeard89]

After learning a ton about metal work and having several specialists give me courses on metal work, I can say there is more than just drill bit and drilling. Lower rpm and less pressure works a lot because it allows the tool to work. Then there are times where metal is soft and added pressure may not matter. Then you have oils or pastes that help. Also have cobalt, carbide, titanium, etc style bits for better performance on certain metals. You may be able to tell there is a lot to working with metal.

[@kennonwilson3097]

Just curious.. Where was your Dad?

[@KyleSmith-hf2uh]

I have used other hole saws with similar pilot bits I always drill a pilot hole due to the taper on the one in the hole saw. It always seems to want to catch. It didn’t matter if it was Klein Greenlee or Ideal. Great video very interested in these. Would love to see a carbide set so you can drill stainless steel.

[@douglis6185]

Maybe try letting the bit cool down? Might be overheating it, messing up the temper of he metal. Technically, it *should* work since it's supposed to work on heavy metal, but those impact drivers turn some pretty high RPMs. Are the bits HSS?

[@Rocker-1234]

I was thinking maybe it needs a constant flow of oil as a lubricant/coolant

[@Rockcal11]

As a electrician we use them all the time for steel enclosures . However they do not like much stainless . Great vid guys

[@VCGConstruction]

Thanks cal we appreciate it!!

[@keithburton2874]

I believe that these holes saws will drill heavy metal it's just that the metal that you were testing it on was to thick. I believe that when the saw part made contact with the metal that the drill bit was still cutting thus it's trying to pull the saw part down faster than its able to cut thus putting to much stress on the drill bit and causing the failure. Only my thoughts because I'm no expert. Thanks for reading. God Bless

[@VCGConstruction]

Sounds legit Keith! These may need further testing!!

[@grzegorzhabiniak4308]

I welcome all VCG fans. I tested the tip of probably 38 mm or something similar. Naturally, the top broke, at 0.6 or 0.8 mm, then switched to 4 (2nd generation), and went. Blacks, plastic or boards, plasterboard, laminated, plywood I recommend! It is a pity that it is so short - it would be useful to get a centimeter longer 🙂

[@rn1985]

As an electrician, I rough in a lot of steel frame homes. I do prefer using impact rated hole saws with an impact over a traditional hole saw on the drill. There’s just less strain on the arms if your making heaps holes all day. Also the impact has a smaller foot print.

[@johnrocha3293]

I’ve notice the the impact blows has snapped a few of by bits when using it on heavy duty task so Now I just stick to my drill when doing holes!

[@VCGConstruction]

I feel it was the impacting that shattered the pilot bit as well!

[@portilloalex1512]

@@VCGConstruction it is Vince try using regular drill.

[@wickedleeloopy2115]

I use my impact driver for drilling holes in timber with spade bits . My drill doesn't get used that much unless I'm drilling steel dill bits usually.

[@JWimpy]

As an HVAC tech I will definitely be getting those. And I know electricians will love them too.

[@jrdn.lauren]

Eh. As an electrician, no I won't. I'll stick to my Ideal carbide tooth hole saws. The torque and shock the impact will put on those teeth will break em. If any tooth catches then it will be broken off. Vs a drill is a more gentle and consistent force.

[@toolsmetals2148]

I've been using my Milwaukee"s like this now for a few months not just my impact drivers but I have also been using these hole saw bits in my 1/4" hex stubby impact and even with extended shockwave extensions in the Automotive field but I started out using it to bore holes for my Service Cart at first I recommended these for many different uses and applications and to keep it from getting hot and smoking you gotta use WD-40 while drilling it will keep the tip driving smoothly through and that thick inch steel you need to use a #12 Milwaukee Step Bit it will run through the steel quick in steps

[@thetruth5210]

The 7/8 is on me all the time in metal frame buildings to be able install Arlington 3/4 grommets. It does say “Thin” wall hole saw. You can drill interior stud work all day long, or under one bay of windows on exterior studs. I buy one per floor when doing ruff-ins.

[@josephjorgensen3282]

We had a set of these on. Job sight and when we drilled out the thin steel studs they worked great but once we hit the thicker studs the driver would ratchet and break teeth off we finally just went back to Lenox hole saws but for fixtures it might be great

[@jamesarthur9596]

You need more than a dab of cutting oil while drilling. Need to continually add oil. Also it's not good to cover the vent slots on the drill while in operation. Just my 2cents.

[@anthonyjones3678]

I use m12 fuel impact driver for appliance work. It works great.

[@famman100]

Please do a follow up video on how well the warranty went, if you did a warranty claim on these three holesaw’s.

[@chaserader1220]

I use these bits for work. I work in Automation and Access Control, they are perfect for conduit. Ive never come across something that these didnt work on except stone. (of course I never had to get through 1/2 steel) They work great on 1/4 steel but I dont use my driver, I use my badass Milwaukee Drill w/out the hammer function.

[@numberoneduno7265]

For stainless, going slow is key. These claim to be 40% faster. You have more control over speed with a drill, then you do an Impact, so I don’t think they would have done well on stainless. Unless you can keep it cool, even cutting oil is useless on stainless at that speed. Also, on those pilot bits in the thick steel.. they are so short, that if there is any side to side movement before the bit goes all the way through, they will snap there’s no tolerance. Especially at that high speed. It must stay perfectly straight with no wobble. That’s almost impossible with the human hand, at that speed. Traditional hole saws have pilot bits that are removable, and the bits are usually long enough to go all the way through the material, before the hole saw begins cutting. I would probably use these on panels/Junction boxes.. they are perfect for those.

[@numberoneduno7265]

Joe Bacalla Agreed! I use Anchor lube, or WesLube if I can find it.

[@Joshuaellis420]

I’ve drilled a few ss sinks with step down bits easily

[@numberoneduno7265]

Jbe #17 What brand step down bit? The ones I have tried, work for a couple holes in stainless, but dull quickly. I do a lot of industrial electrical work, and stainless is a spec in most food and chemical plants.

[@Joshuaellis420]

Number one Duno cheap ones off eBay also I have only done a few I used my m12 hammer drill driver I did one without oil one time it was glowing orange

[@adammccabe531]

We have had these in uk for a few years now and they are very good generally but the pilot bit are known to break great on lighter gage steel such as electrical distribution boards much faster then a standard hole saw Great job vcg keep up the testing

[@black88lx]

I just bought the M18 non fuel non Brushless kit on sale at Depot. $299. Impact , drill, circ saw, hacksaw, flashlight and two bats and charger(3.0/1.5). I’m not a full time contractor any longer and this kit replaced my dewalt 18v nicad lol. What’s everyone’s Opinion on this ? Did I waste my money? So far seems great. I really wanted he Fuel brushless stuff. But for what I do. I couldn’t justify the cost.

[@Earth313n]

thank you for the video. I recommend that when you are testing these things again. Do not try it only with Milwaukee 3ed gen impact driver with high output battery. it will be very convenient to try m12 2nd gen Milwaukee impact driver and m18 hydraulic one just to see its capacity of variance use. thank you a lot for your time

[@davidmoulton5422]

Great video Vincent bit I am not convinced on the performance on that style of hole saw I really like the dozer series all my gear is Milwaukee I appreciate you taking the time to demonstrate the new gear service plumber out

[@JWimpy]

Just like with any drilling in heavy gauge metal you have to keep pulling your drill back to clear the chips from the drill flutes. When the flutes pack full of shavings the bit jams solid.

[@TheMcdrewb]

It’s for electricians guys those are trade sizes for our EMT connector...those symbols are generic for there packaging

[@protokid1516]

Andrew B finally somebody who seems to get it, light gauge steel and aluminum and pvc is all those are intended for. And they work pretty good when used the way they are intended.

[@TheMcdrewb]

Guy Cicinia nice to know ur not the only person who has “uncommon sense”

[@fd3871]

love these things. the key to get the pvc not to stay in the well is to pull out when you feel like you are at the end of the material, then push it back in and drill slowly.

[@dusty2608]

I’ve got that set it pairs perfect with my m12 impact. I’ve never tried it on heavy metal though. It awesome to be able to use an impact for everything!

[@johnl5177]

You can use a impact to tap holes as well. Just have to work it back and forth to brake the chips. Ive tap holes with a 1/4 Makita impact brushless compact version in 3/8 mild steel. Up to 1.5 inches deep for 30 holes on 1 tap You probably would have no issue. Drilling that. Angle with your bit if you put a pilot hole in the steel first it's grabbing and causing it to brake.

[@rn0382]

I missed the 100k. Congratulations 🎉 it's been a long road but you guys worked hard. CONGRATULATIONS MY MAN !!!!!

[@VCGConstruction]

Thanks Richard we appreciate it! #VeryCoolGang

[@АдскийЧеловек-е1ю]

greetings from Russia,colleagues.these crowns are not intended for drilling metal of this thickness. In order to drill this metal channel, you need to make a hole with a simple drill of the same diameter as in the crown for direction. And then drill with this crown. Then no drill would break.

[@arnoldglean1101]

and this is why i love your channel.. and this community.. you don't pull any punches just to make a tool look bad or good ..instead you test these tools to their limits so that we, ya beloved community knows what we are getting when we purchase an item. GREAT REVIEW AND TEST AS ALWAYS KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK BRO.

[@littlemilto6563]

@VCG Construction there is already a few comments about pre-piloting the hole, they are right. The next issue is the speed: In thin steel high speed is no problem. However in the thicker steel I would be more inclined to slow the tool down. Still using plenty of 3 in 1 oil. The teeth on the hole-saw do suggest high speed use however. Great video, I enjoyed it completely.

[@VCGConstruction]

Thanks Milto we appreciate the feedback!!

[@nicholasfattizzi6168]

Vince what's up my brother!?! I use theese all the time amost daily . Haven't used a traditional hole saw in forever. They don't last forever and the spring doesn't do the best job of ejecting the circular cut out out piece. All the best to the very cool gang!!!

[@VCGConstruction]

Thanks Nicholas, we appreciate the feedback!!

[@leeherring1991]

The impact of the driller is what snaps it. Back the bit in and out a few times. Try it with a regular screwgun and it will mow through it without a problem

[@destinyshadovv]

Predrill pilot hole?

[@joshgagner7583]

You probably should have peck drilled it go in than back it out then back down. What probably happened is that the flutes in the bit got filled up and in able to allow the chips to leave the bit. Biggest reason that we break bits in the metal shop that I work at.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

You should always oil while drilling with metal through metal

[@michaelpeacock9987]

Drilling steel with a conventional bit turn it slow and apply pressure. The physics on the pilot bit on thick steel - as the pilot bit heats up it expands outward, similarly as the steel being drilled the ID of the pilot gets smaller because the metal is expanding in unison with the bit and therefore you seize and possibly friction weld the two pieces together.

[@marcovillegas7942]

The bits are cool me and my crew have used them for a while. But we always seem to break them or snap them. We have tried several drills but we always get the same results

[@shawnm9626]

It looks to me like the spring is preventing the chips from exiting the hole made by the pilot bit on the half inch angle. And that is creating more friction and causing the pilot bit to break

[@stanRmeyer]

The problem that I noticed when Drilling the pilot drill crooked not perpendicular to the substrate. Once the larger hole saw came in contact and you pressed down and straighten it up, straightening up the hole saw and pressing down flat bent the pilot drill and it snapped.

[@stevemillican7155]

It looks as though the spring is packing the pilot bit with shavings until it fails, along with the heat of the speed from that impact, it's destined to break. I would think that just pulling it out a couple times to clear the pilot bit out would make it last. Don't feel bad Vince, I have 4 kids, so I was never great at pulling out either.

[@adam92682]

I won a Milwaukee shirt for registering some tools.

[@adamsarrazin3102]

I just registered myself, hoping for that ten piece set🤣

[@kingofthecrease30]

i did too...it just showed up in the mail last week...they didnt give me notice that i won

[@RoyFabian]

Ive just come to find over the years high speed drilling and now impact drilling and thick metal just don't like each other. Low speed and high pressure with oil is ideal. Impact bits in high speed on a drill do a decent job on thicker metal, but dull out rather quick. But in an impact, they either chip or straight up snap. I use that setup for sheet metal and it just cooks these bits. I just go slow and apply a good amount of pressure and that works best for any drill bit in metal. Impact rated or not. A little oil goes a long way

[@VCGConstruction]

Thanks for the feedback Roy we appreciate it!

[@jarrodbrennan121]

I drill through steel all the time. Try this. Drill completely through the steel with a 1/4" bit first. Then use the hole saw. Add more oil to the surface once you have a nice groove going and just add more as needed. Trying to use the hole saw without drilling through the material completely before the teeth engage is creating a binding pressure on the pilot bit. You really can only get away with that when drilling soft materials like wood and plastics

[@jonthemachine1970]

When I use an impact with a hole saw or paddle bits it is very jerky and makes irregular holes. They also break more bits than with a drill.

[@TheDurbinCompound]

Earning that thumbs up before the video even loads, every time.

[@VCGConstruction]

Thank Devin!!

[@cristianorlando9287]

I always use those accessories with the drill, need more speed

[@burrr1047]

Try a drill driver on setting 1, barely put pressure on the drill, you were going fast and I think that was heating up the pilot bits to the point of breaking. For field test I wouldn’t use oil though cuz I doubt many contractors carry milling lube with them lol. Thanks for showing me what a pos Milwaukee’s toy hole saw set is Vince! 😂 You the man! Rah!

[@108electrical]

They are really good hole saws, its really all in how you use them

[@carpetcleaningprofessor]

With all hole saws when cutting metal you need to make sure the pilot goes all the way through or else it will create a backstop Goulding the bit with shavings on half inch hot roll you would want to make sure that you pre-drill the hole

[@me7229]

Vince already grew his beard back! Amazing

[@VCGConstruction]

🤣🤣

[@Holiday48000]

Great test... PVC, Wood & LIght metal only

[@me-pv4fn]

Try drilling a pilot hole straight threw then follow it with the impact bit

[@robsmith3838]

Drilling through metal/ steel should be a a slow speed w/oil

[@VCGConstruction]

You’d think

[@bigblocklawyer]

What do you do when the battery hits the surface you're drilling? The saw and battery are on the same plane. Impossible to drill the hole through. Battery makes the drill tilt down as it goes through.

[@TheMcdrewb]

bigblocklawyer lol

[@husseinhussein142]

I have been using these tools for years here in Baghdad and priced at $ 8 produced by a Chinese company It's good to see the same product from Milwaukee

[@cdale93mike29]

I see a lot of comments and read a few of them. Oiling was the proper way to go, but more oiling is needed. You used up all the oil at pilot location almost immediately. More oil, less pressure on bit and possibly slower speed. Even though you didn't suceed I'm sold on hole saw set.

[@VCGConstruction]

Further testing is in order!

[@josephpierce5058]

As an electrician I’ve been using them for the past 7 months and they will not go through stainless steel, for stainless use the Quick Change Carbide Tooth Milwaukee Hole Saws

[@VCGConstruction]

Thanks for the feedback Joseph, we appreciate it!

[@gregbanach4957]

Great destruction on the video Vince, keeping it real, I love it. I guess I'll be holding onto my old school oxy/acetylene cutting torch for blowing holes into angle iron and I beams. 🔥Anybody use plasma?

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

I love 1/4 shank drill bits they make life easier sometimes

[@chasejordan22]

I hate em. I keep snapping them. 1/4 shank isnt enough for 1 1/4 hole through wood or metal. Not sure why they make those bits.

[@dillonrector9372]

I’ve seen it on here. But the pilot bit should always be all the way threw before the socket makes its first bite

[@LtDan-nm1ss]

Listed under the description for these on their website says : Chose Shockwave™ Impact Hole Saws for use in plastics and thin gauge metals up to 1/8” thick.

[@VCGConstruction]

I’ll look at the website, thanks LT !!

[@BRo-qx4xm]

Milwaukee drill bits, hole saws, hex head bits, saw zaw blades and chalk line suck!! I’ve bought all these products and they don’t last! Lenox hole saw kits are the best!! Diablo saw saw blades are cheap and made out of carbide bi metal. Mikita gold drill bits are the best and dewalt has the best hex head impact ready 1 1/4 long bits. Can anybody agree with this? Im in the industrial industry and commercial for electrical. All my power tools are Milwaukee tho! 💪🏽

[@fsevilla1]

I have used the diablo carbide holesaw and they perform great need to try the new Milwaukee carbide holwsaw And the sawsall blades i mostly use milwaukee and just bought a new set feom diablo that has 2 of theyre new carbide tip blades will see hhow good they are

[@BRo-qx4xm]

CraneTech101 Lenox hole saws are the best, for saw zaw blades I don’t agree!

[@BRo-qx4xm]

F SEVILLA Diablo blades are hands down, I hope Milwaukee steps they’re game up on everything. I hate having mix match brands. I’m all Milwaukee. We shall see!

[@nathanpotter8569]

In my experience with drilling through thicker metal.. you need to do it in stages ... go so far and add more oil... and keep repeating... even with oil the bit needs a break to cool down... or they snap everytime

[@MysticalMan79]

Don't forget to blow the shavings off as well.

[@alpharemoval2046]

Judging by observation we believe you would make it threw the heavy metal at half thickness. Or with a slightly longer pilot. Torsional stress is serious on these little things. Great video

[@mark9021]

Dewalt has had those for about 5 years. Ive drilled pretty thick steel with em.

[@styleplague]

Not to mention, DeWalt is part of a Connecticut based company rather than Hong Kong, like Milwaukee.

[@Ffafggefvfdddhef]

Hey man! Gotta give it to you, every video is getting better! Thanks for the content.

[@Mars4190]

I use one for HVAC sheet metal for a starter whole when cutting ductwork

[@VCGConstruction]

Thanks for the feedback Mars!!

[@jamesf9610]

That spring was cutting into the pvc you can see where the spring was also digging into the steel and I think it is what broke the bits when it got hung up

[@corybielke6934]

I’ve been using these hole saws for years, not recommended on plastics. Great in panel boards and boxes. Spring definitely binds on plastic since it heats up and binds to the plastic.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Great video Vince

[@TheGameBoy56]

Becase the hole saw hasn’t started making a clean hole yet it jerking the the pilot point bit around causing it to snap thicker pilot point bit would be the fix

[@marcusshipley3935]

I have Starrett holesaw bits just like these and they are fine for light guage steel, but even so don't last very long. much better in a combi drill too for my money! I think the impacts hinder the smooth cutting action!?

[@michaelprosperity3420]

Don't impact drivers work by torque going forward/reverse in miliseconds. If so the bit would have to have windings to reflect the multidirectional drive of the tool.

[@spirorevelis7100]

Pre drill pilot hole completely. Start hole saw at low speed until it cuts a well defined groove of it's own then increase speed within reason. High speed always smokes drilling tool steel and is to be avoided. problem is that hole saw teeth are meeting heavy material at high rpm without pilot hole being fully cut and are throwing the hole saw sideways and breaking the pilot bit. Will happen with ANY hole saw in this situation on heavy material.

[@JaketheRake16]

A hole saw with an impact is the o my way to go. On Milwaukee’s website it actually says for only thin gauge metals for up to 1/8 thick.

[@colbybohannan2212]

Try drilling a slower speed and possibly drilling a pilot hole before hand so u are not stressing the bit in the whole saw just to see what they are capable of doing