New Sonoff Basic? Wires Inside? Is it better or worse? The Sonoff Basic RF R2 Power V1.0

[@Smitty3572]

Rob, thanks for the update. I have actually modded mine with 14ga SIS wire before I had put them in service. I have seen too many issues with traces carrying a load. Keep up the good work.

[@delaveganz]

There are a number of older version Sonoff Basics which have seen board failure due to uneven soldering - even if the load was much less than the 10A rating. I have to agree that the HV isolation and improved safety are the main drivers for the revision

[@SteveMasonCanada]

Thank you! Just wasted 2 hours trying to connect an AM2302 to GPIO 14 on a new Sonoff basic based on an incorrect diagram showing GPIO 14. works just fine on RX/gpio 3.

[@76queen]

hello Steve were you able to also use any of the other inputs to toggle the relay? and if so what were your connections, thanks.

[@SteveMasonCanada]

@@76queen I didn't try. Only needed temp/humidity inputs. Just using Home Assistant/Alexa to turn on an exhaust fan.

[@ilducedimas]

Great video, great source of alternative GPIO solutions. In a word: awesome!

[@leglessinoz]

The changes might in part have been due to them trying to get devices certified for the strict Australian market.

[@zodak9999b]

There's no problem with GPIO2 if you use an optocoupler and have GPIO2 going low turn it on. That also allows you to not worry about about the current out of the pin and keeps what you're switching more isolated from the groundless Sonoff power.

[@saeedhossain6099]

Not sure if it's already been mentioned but switching to a load wire rather than trace let's you use the relay to switch a hot+load wire set up more easily than having to cut the traces on the board, just an initial thought.

[@etc-ss10]

Great overview Rob!! Many thanks.

[@matheokoning4456]

Is the sonoff basic with gpo14 still for sale somewere?

[@Ernie-Tech]

Root of the problem is bloody ITEAD/Sonoff not providing a NC contact on its relay (to safe costs of course, low budget). If only they had done a little more thinking, it would have avoided so much trouble to combine with existing on/off lightswitches! I don't like to make myself dependant on electronics/internet/lan and as you know a lightning strike will kill it and your way of switching on a simple light. Therefor I think it's better to either replace the relay of a Sonoff by a type that has NO and NC contacts, so combining it with an existing switch is no trouble and even a failing relay and or electronics will still leave you to switch on the light manually! OR just add a simple second relay that has NO and NC contacts, operated by the Sonoff, and therefor giving you back full manual control with any existing (3-pole) switch. I wonder if Sonoff is short for Son-off-a-bitch or more Son-of-a-switch ? :-) hahaha

[@andrii3810]

Very thorough analysis, good job!

[@shrekeccles3279]

I tried connecting a touch switch using the ground, 3.3v and gpio3 at first for a about 30 second works perfect then the sonoff does a factory rest and I have to reconnect it to my wifi. I set gpio3 as a button do you no what could be causing this please?

[@pedrorego1443]

u can also soder to gpi04 i did it, directly to the chip "leg" is tricky but works

[@maltravel]

How do I get a PIR Sensor (HC-SR501 PIR) working for the new Sonoff Basic RF R2 Power V1.0? All tutorials are just working for the old Sonoff Basic where already the header pins were available. I dont want soldering, just plugging it in.

[@geolupascu]

Waiting so much for your review on Sonoff basic R3 recently released.

[@TheHookUp]

I preordered one, I'm surprised it's not here yet.

[@felixh.7501]

Totally agree, I hope Rob gets his own soon, and get us more light on this. I'm not sure the R3 V1.0 will be a win. Not only GPio14 isnt accessible via PIN, but I couldnt use the so-called GPIO16 either (which is said to be one of the OTA pins). For now the Sonoff Basic R3 V1.0 stays on the side for me...

[@hoggif]

I think bringing gpio2 near other programming pads suggest they may use it for production and/or testing. Perhaps they use alternate boot modes for something. A nice row like that is easy to connect for something like automated tasting using some pogo pins.

[@ronm6585]

Thanks Rob.

[@Leonvolt28]

I'm still running two first gen unmodified sonoff basics. They work well, but the wifi reception is horrible. They are losing the connection all the time. I've ordered a Sonoff s26 because those ones are a lot better and also more convenient for my use. I will also order a sonoff basic 3rd generation soon.

[@stevebrown1413]

I am a definite newbie. Looking for instruction on adding a momentary contact switch to a Sonoff Basic R2. GPiO03 to Ground (with GPIO03 set to switch1 in config) does not work for me. Should I be using GPIO03 to 3V?

[@ronkloiber]

Is it possible to measure temperature and pressure with a TH10 ? I have a TH10, DS18B20 and Pressure transducer (3 wire, grnd,3.3v and data). I want to monitor my pool temperature, and pressure of the pump.

[@evghenisteinbach9502]

Hi, i have troubles to flash Sonoff RF R2 Power V1.3(looks same as V1.4). The method with buttom does not work. Can you give me a hint please?

[@mmbmmb8890]

Hi, i have used my sonoff basic for turning on and off air conditioner unit in my house . After few days my sonoff switch got broken ( connects to wifi and it can be turned on or off using App but when it's on doesn't deliver power at output ) . What can be the cause of problem . Please help . The sonoff version is old version as shown in video

[@robertcruikshank8864]

Thanks for the video. Very useful. Question, how would one add an SHT3X sensor to this version of the Sonoff Basic and which version of Tasmota bin file would be suitable? Thanks Rob

[@aplicacionesjuegosymaspara8814]

How do you flash the 2019 basic switch ? Could you make a step by step video please ? Thanx

[@robdaugherty2010]

Aplicaciones, juegos y mas para tu android , I haven’t seen anyone do a video specifically for the new layout. But, I’ve been doing it using the old how to videos, and it works great.

[@rcv78]

I have removed the bi color led because de red part isn't even connected. Nou I can solder a wire to the smd resistor because this contact is larger to solder. I configured the gpio13 as switch input instead of led1i. I didn't find a good forum to post my pictures

[@JasonWho]

The tasmota github page might work, or the discord, or the home-assistant.io forums. Interested in seeing your work! Or a youtube vid :)

[@JasonWho]

I might have found the pad, right below where GPIO2 punches through to the other side of the board? but on the ESP chip side it looks like there's a resister on the trace?

[@rcv78]

@@JasonWho I add it to github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota/wiki/Sonoff-Basic

[@miguelangeloconceicao738]

I believe it's easier to isolate the mains current from the output on this new model - I mean to modify it for Isolated mode (Dry Contacts). Have you tried that?

[@TheHookUp]

I thought this would be the case, but unfortunately the wires are from the relay to the output, not the input to the relay.

[@phillipsaw]

Thanks so much for the video. Is it still feasible to modify it for dry contacts or is it now more difficult than before?

[@volace]

I am also interested in modifying the new version to get isolated dry contact in the output if anyone help me in that since I bought a bunch of sonoff for this project and was unaware of their changes

[@caswellndlhovu8990]

I have flashed the latest basic r2 (GND, Tx, Rx, 3.3V on the side of the chip) with the latest version of tasmota (9.3.1) I tried Rx and GND, but the console shows it is sending "@@" or sometimes "1", just random commands when I close the switch, I have allocated the pin to switch 1 and disabled serial logging to no effect, this is really frustrating. Has anyone managed to do this. on a very old firmware, the key works as a momentary switch, I thought upgrading the firmware and allocating GPIO2 pin would do the trick.

[@TheFlyingKiwiNZ]

Can you still solder a small wire onto gpio 5 leg of the esp chip like the older model? Glad I still have plenty of the older ones...

[@TheHookUp]

Sure, you can always solder directly to the ESP chip, but at that point I think it's more trouble than it's worth.

[@TheFlyingKiwiNZ]

@@TheHookUp yes it's a bit of a fiddly job, but it's definitely worth it! I'm using my sonoff basics for all they're worth including connecting a capacitive touch pad to gpio5 and sticking it behind the light switch bezel and having a rule to send an mqtt toggle cmnd to my workbench S20.

[@ZacKoch]

And this is exactly how you tank a business which was carried by the DIY market. I would've expected some changes competing with Shelly, but they've started digging themselves a hole now....

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

They could also just want all your HA to rely on their servers. Data-mining might gather them some extra income. It's more likely for the reasons you suggest in the video. So, gpio14 isn't to be found anywhere but the chip itself? Bummer. Maybe 2 strands from a Dupont wire soldered to the chip leg & some hotsnot to hold it? That's a ton of labor when there's Shelly as an alternative.

[@mrphyslaw]

Old Curmudgeon they will fall out of favor with the diy community I think. I certainly won’t buy anymore.

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

@@mrphyslaw w/ shelly & nodemcu as options and now having access to a 3D printer, there's no need to mess w/ the basic variants. I have a few smart outlet models, but only 1 SV. The SV was just more convenient than scratch-built this time. I needed I2C & a pin for PIR so this new design won't work. Wonder if they'll change the SV next.

[@TheHookUp]

I agree that the basic is sort of "old tech" now. There are much better options out there. I've replaced all of my sonoff basics, with shellies. I do have two sonoff duals still in the wall, but they will be replaced soon. I bought this new version for research and to produce this video since I was getting a lot of comments asking about it on other videos. I don't ever plan to install it.

[@ptmoy1]

Hi Rob, I loaded Tasmota into one of the new Sonoff Basics, and used GPIO3 for the switch as suggested in your video. This Sonoff controls six 8-feet florescent lights in my garage - about 570 Watts. Everything seems to work except the light turns off by itself randomly. Using the Tasmota console and MQTT.fx, I noticed the Sonoff is receiving a command with a blank payload, which is causing the switch to turn off (e.g., in Tasmota console:, I see this: 16:36:07 MQT: cmnd/garageLight/POWER =). Neither the Sonoff or Rasperry Pi running HASSIO have rebooted during this time, so I speculate this problem is not related to the retained flag. What do you think is causing this?

[@ptmoy1]

I have a bit more information. I noticed the Sonoff Basic mentioned in my post above is disconnecting and reconnecting to the network repeatedly. In the Tasmota console, I see "Attempting connection," followed by "Connected," over and over (see below). The Sonoff Basic is actually in a detached garage, so disconnects may be due to a weak WiFi signal. But it always seem to re-connect without problems. Notice the empty payload in the "cmnd" message shown below. I also see the same LWT message and the cmnd message with an empty payload in MQTT.fx. 02:19:34 DNS: Initialized 02:19:34 MQT: Attempting connection... 02:19:36 MQT: Connected 02:19:36 MQT: tele/garageLight/LWT = Online (retained) 02:19:36 MQT: cmnd/garageLight/POWER = 02:19:36 MQT: stat/garageLight/RESULT = {"POWER":"OFF"} 02:19:36 MQT: stat/garageLight/POWER = OFF (retained) 02:20:03 MQT: tele/garageLight/STATE = {"Time":"2019-03-13T02:20:03","Uptime":"2T00:06:49","Vcc":3.488,"SleepMode":"Dynamic","Sleep":50,............. 02:20:03 MQT: tele/garageLight/SENSOR = {"Time":"2019-03-13T02:20:03","Switch1":"OFF"} Is the Mosquito broker sending the "tele/garageLight/LWT = Online" and "cmnd/garageLight/POWER = " messages? Why is it sending a cmnd message with an empty payload? I seem to be able to control the Sonoff switch using HA without problems despite the disconnects and re-connects. But the empty cmnd message is causing the light to turn "off" when it was "on" before the disconnect. Any ideas on how to fix this (maybe via some settings?) other than trying to get a stronger WiFi signal to get rid of the disconnects.

[@ptmoy1]

I have 3 Tasmotized Sonoff Basics, and 1 Tasmotized Shelly1 in the detached garage. The switches are located very closed to each other. I only see the disconnects / re-connects in two of the Sonoff Basics. The third Sonoff Basic and the Shelly1 operate without problems. I am puzzled.

[@ptmoy1]

I think I'm experiencing problems described in this thread: github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota/issues/4686

[@ptmoy1]

Disconnect problems disappeared after I downgraded to core 2.3.0 as described in the discussion accessible via hyperlink above. I tried core 2.5.0 as well; it reduced number of disconnects significantly but I was still getting a few here and there. Core 2.3.0 seemed to have eliminated disconnects entirely (i.e., no drops in over 24 hours). According to TasmoAdmin, I'm also getting better WiFi signal strength with core 2.3.0. I still don't understand why Mosquito is publishing a blank-payload cmnd message after a re-connect. But I'm no long convinced that was the cause of my mysterious lights-off scenario. Please comment if anyone has an opinion regarding this.

[@kiwijunglist]

thanks, guess i wont be using any more sonoff basic

[@mikefarm9851]

Hi, with this unit not using GP14 / GND, you mention that we need to use GND and RX for our sensor, what should be the Module Switch configuration parameter to use these leads as a sensor? In the past for R1 Basic, I've used GND and the 5th GPIO14 pin to connect this to a door sensor, and the "GPIO14 Sensor" parameters is set to "10 Switch 2". Thank you.

[@viniciusnoyoutube]

I would like to control the Sonoff 4CH Pro R2 using a RF 433MHZ modulo with a Arduino. Does anyone know how to? Could you make a video about it? Thanks.

[@Sasha-sy9dp]

How are things with the connection of sensors now? I want to order the DHT22 sensor and connect it to Sonoff R2 via GPIO3, pin RX. Read the old comments that the sensors show a value of 0 because there is not enough power. Develop doubts. Where is the truth? Will it work or not? Who connected the sensors, share your experience. Can be another model sensors need to?

[@jasonwilson6043]

Complete newb trying to wifi enable my garage door for google home and also connect a reed switch/door sensor to know when the door is open or closed. 1. Where should I connect the reed switch door sensor (along with how to flash)? 2. What do I need to do for the low voltage continuity on output side and not full voltage (previous generation you just cut the board)? Was planning to just use ewelink and google home if possible/ aka minimize software and coding needed.

[@TheHookUp]

I wouldn't suggest a sonoff basic for that application. First, the reed switch/door sensor isn't going to function properly using the ewelink app. Second, the sonoff basic carries mains voltage on it's relay output, so it will fry your garage door opener. You should look into the SonoffSV or the Shelly1 for that application. DrZzs has a good video showing how to do it with a Sonoff SV.

[@roystervi]

thanks for the vid, Have you notice throughout the entire vid you do not blink at all? lol I think you can win a staring contest lol

[@TheHookUp]

Forgot to run blink.exe

[@altimmons]

There’s already an r3. Can you talk about that please. And maybe a rundown of the best devices right now. Just bought a new house and I’m trying to plan out my new smart home. I get most my info from your channel though

[@TheHookUp]

Are you putting them in your switch boxes? If so I'd highly recommend Shelly products. The Shelly1 and Shelly2.5 are small, safe, and don't require any messing around with to integrate into your smart home. Here's the 2.5 for controlling 2 switches: amzn.to/2O5grfj and the 1 for controlling a single switch: shelly.cloud/product/shelly-1-open-source/?ref=25100

[@picaccio]

Amazing review! i just got mine and was confused about the differences with the original board. One question, could you post a guide (or point me in the right direction) about how to make use of the new key/led/k_p pins available in this version? Thanks!

[@yiannisis]

I have overloaded my R2 sonoff basic using it for a dehumidifier that has a high load on startup. can it be fixed?

[@jjmooij]

Can you tell me how to learn the tasmotized Sonoff RF signals?

[@TheHookUp]

I've actually never used the RF control for a sonoff, so I'm no help.

[@1MohrFarm]

I have flashed my new sonoff basic with wires with the esphome through hassio. Do you know if there is a way to get Alexa to discover the switch? I know it was able to in the past. thanks,

[@bruxy70]

If GPIO03 is high on boot, and I connect it to a switch that will connect it to the GND, how will that work? Won't it damage the chip? And if not, how it can be high during the boot if I connect it to GND? Also, does the pin have a pull-up resistor, so that it will be high if the switch does not connect it to the ground? Would the same thing work on Sonoff Dual R2? I think one of the buttons there connects to GPIO0, so if the switch connects it to the GND during the boor, it will go to programming mode (kind of 50/50 lottery). So RX would work better? Thanks!

[@TheHookUp]

It will not damage the chip, it's really only an issue if you are connecting some output device (like an LED or a relay), which results in that output device turning on for ~400ms on boot. All pins on the ESP8266 have pullup resistors except GPIO16, which has a pulldown. Dual R2 is also an ESP8266, so all the same concepts apply.

[@TheTinkerDad]

Hi! Nice video as usual, but there are two questions I hoped you'll answer in the video: 1) Any changes to the physical form factor? (Seemingly none, but who knows?) I'm asking because I'm in the process of designing a much better and safer enclosure for my Sonoff Basics and having the form factor change would be a real bummer... 2) So, a different chip. Does it still fully work with Tasmota?

[@TheHookUp]

No changes to form factor. I touched on the chip a little in the video. The 8285 is just an upgraded 8266 that has 1mb of flash memory on board, tasmota will still work perfectly.

[@MultiThomas36]

The form factor is the same and I have flashed with the latest Tasmoa and not had any problems. I ordered 5 about a month ago and was surprised to find the design change expecting them to look like the videos.

[@tamvalley415]

In video #31 you went over changing the memory chip out to accomodate changes to code. is the 1mb enough to make the mods you suggested in that video?

[@TheHookUp]

@@tamvalley415 I think you may be confusing me with Jonathan from SuperHouseTV (thanks for the compliment). That mod will no longer be possible, but I really would never have recommended it anyways because: 1) Better options are out there. A shelly has 4mb of flash memory and is an overall better product. 2) There's no reason a program should be larger than 1mb unless you are running a webserver on it with lots of image resources. Tasmota is creeping up on that limit because it contains TONS of extra code that never gets used by a sonoff basic (drivers for various sensors, chips, etc). Tasmota can be significantly reduced by removing some of the included xdrv files and dependencies.

[@TheTinkerDad]

@@TheHookUp & @Michael Thomas - Thanks for both answers, it's really cool to know that existing stuff like custom enclosures and Tasmota will still be fine!

[@raptr49]

It appears to me that they also added a fuse.

[@TheHookUp]

It's a low voltage fuse, but better than nothing.

[@1981Rednas]

I received 3 R2 ones lately. All 3 did not have a warranty seal!? I already had 7 R1's, all with the small sticker... Can these 3 be counterfeit?

[@thespencerowen]

Alexa app classifies the new ones as 'switches' and the old ones as 'smart outlets'. Makes it super confusing when you go into the app.

[@llanrog]

Really useful video, thank you! I was impressed with the wires for the high current, as I've jolted myself on a few occasions with the tram lines. However, I'm really disappointed that they have removed GPIO14. My whole setup relies on that pin! The Sonoff is a great starter device, but I have had issues with flickering, re-starts and occasional non responsiveness, so I'm looking forward to that new Shelly Product, inc. dimming, that you talked about as an alternative... any idea on ETA for that?

[@TheHookUp]

No ETA on the dimmer unit, but I know it is being actively developed.

[@miguelangeloconceicao738]

Isn't the Sonoff RF (radio frequency) a different product? The Sonoff RF can be controlled via WiFi and also via an RF dongle

[@TheHookUp]

Correct, they are likely using the same circuit board for both, they will just add additional components to the RF version.

[@SmithyScotland]

Slightly confused by the video title. The sonoff basic, rf and power are 3 separate products. Is this new unit a combined model?

[@TheHookUp]

It is confusing. The reason I put that in the title is that those are the words that are screen printed on the circuit board so someone who pops open their new sonoff will most likely use those words in their youtube search to find out about the changes. I assume all those terms are screen printed on there because they will use the same circuit board for both the RF and non-RF units.

[@AndyPue]

@@TheHookUp Had the exact same problem. The board had the "Sonoff RF R2" printed on it, but I could not find any trace of an RF-Module seen on other videos. So looks like iunified boards for multiple versions. However, flashing it works exactly the same, did not have any problems with it.

[@LukeRT]

@@TheHookUp we going to see a how to for flashing the new boards?!

[@peel1e]

@@LukeRT Its the same.

[@Krayziekeegs]

can you still use the new basic for a dry contact

[@TheHookUp]

I wouldn't recommend either version of the basic as a dry contact (most of the burned sonoffs I've seen were from that particular modification). You should get a Shelly1 if you want a dry contact, it's a better product and is made specifically to support dry contacts.

[@Krayziekeegs]

@@TheHookUp champ, thanks

[@bradcoffey1]

Does this new one still have inching mode? Is it easier to mod it physically with the wires? Would I still need to cut the board or just the new wires?

[@TheHookUp]

From what I've seen there are no changes to functionality, so inching mode is still possible. As far as modifications. I've seen some interesting modifications to the old sonoff basic cutting traces and adding diodes, but I don't recommend them, as I've seen just as many burned devices as successful devices with that mod. Theoretically it should be easier to do now that there are wires instead of traces, but I still wouldn't recommend it.

[@tomarq]

It looks like the High Voltage input to the relay is now VERY close to the large resistor. I would say it is no longer possible to safely cut the board and use the relay as a "button" or low voltage switch.

[@shubhambhatia93]

I see you like Shelly one more than the Sonoff basic. Is it because of safety? I mean I would not want to skimp on safety when deciding b/w the two. I have flashed Tasmota on Sonoff with header pins, attached a PIR sensor and regular wall switch, w/o any extra resistors or capacitors with no ghost switching so far. Just worried about safety.

[@aihysp]

oh man just orderd somthing like 7 , now what to do with them with no GPIO 14 Rob are you sure there is no way to breakout GPIO 14? i connected the Key and it looks like its switching the relay on and off for now... are you sure this is gpio 2?

[@TheHookUp]

GPIO 14 doesn't exist on the ESP8285, so for sure not that one. If it is connected to GPIO-0 then it has the same function as pressing the button on top, so you'll need to be careful not to long press or you will reset it. Also, if you pull GPIO-0 low during boot it causes it to enter flash mode which is obviously not what you want for a functional switch.

[@Ned798]

hey, thanks for the video i nearly panicked when i noticed it was not the same as all the other youtube videos. So i did what you suggested by using GPIO3 and it worked fine for a number of weeks but just recently it has failed. any ideas? i can still control via Alexa and via IP control just not via my wall switch

[@justinw.steigerwalt5471]

I would really love to see a solution to how to add a sensor (like a reed switch) with this hardware and Tasmota. No success yet finding a pin to use. On my second try, it was easy to remove the mains voltage from the relay and isolate the relay to open/close a garage/gate. Just can’t add a sensor yet.

[@la_ninja12345]

Hey Justin, Were you able to modify the new sonoff basic to open / close a garage door opener?

[@justinw.steigerwalt5471]

Yes, I have been successful, but I used two pieces of hardware. For the open/close I use the sonoff where I cut the 120VAC away from the relay and linked the relay to just open and close the output terminals. Then for the sensor I used a nodemcu also running Tasmota. The sensor is a standard floor mounted garage door reed switch. Maybe I could have made it all work with one nodemcu.

[@PehBlue]

This new sonoff use esp8285 will the code for esp8266 work on esp8285?

[@chrisrock9937]

since when does the esp8266 has built in flash memory? do you have any links?

[@TheHookUp]

It doesn't, the ESP8285 does.

[@chrisrock9937]

The Hook Up then I got it wrong in the video ;)

[@RC_Raceway]

Just a question about ghost switching. Is it still possible to make a low pass filter on pin3? I tried on pin 2 and got said boot issues. Hadn’t thought about gpio3 until seeing this. Another bad reason for gpio2 is that the pad gets pulled off easily.

[@TheHookUp]

Should be able to use a low pass with 3

[@johnny.troublemaker]

I wish I saw this before cursing my soldering iron for lifting 2 io2 pads.

[@FestusHaggen1]

I was trying to convert mine for my garage door opener and noticed mine was different than the instruction videos. Has anyone came up with a solution to make the newer R2 open and close a garage door?

[@TheHookUp]

I'd recommend a Shelly1 for that application since it is designed for dry contacts. I wouldn't recommend modifying the circuitry of the basic since all of the burned sonoffs I've seen were the result of such modifications.

[@DanyMessi10play]

How can I put the flash mode in this device?

[@TheHookUp]

Hold down the button during power on

[@DanyMessi10play]

The Hook Up I did that without success

[@gjlp25]

Great video! It's not working on ac power, is that correct or should it work?

[@TheHookUp]

It should work on AC power.

[@hard2handle]

Question - none of this Sonoff stuff seems to be UL or ETL listed. Are you not concerned about testing from normal “I don’t want you to start your house on fire” labs?

[@TheHookUp]

Cautiously optimistic... you can crack these things open and analyze the circuit, there's not much to it. I wouldn't use them to power high current devices, but for stuff that's pulling less than an amp? These are fine.

[@BlakeAndreasen]

I could be wrong, but I thought that I followed "Key" back to GPIO14? and the IO2 solder pad is GPIO2? why have 2 pads to the same pin

[@TheHookUp]

I will double check when I get home, but I was getting continuity between the two.

[@BlakeAndreasen]

@@TheHookUp Either way since the pin is available I will use the RX pin as you suggested. Thanks for the video I just got mine flashed yesterday and was going to use key

[@ctpprice]

As far i i can measure "key" pad is connected to gpio0 (pin 15), and not to gpio2 (pin 14).

[@jameslong296]

Is the onboard button still on gpio14? If so could you not just desolder it and connect your new switch/button there?

[@TheHookUp]

onboard button on both versions is GPIO-0

[@jameslong296]

@@TheHookUp oh my mistake I thought the old board it was 14. But could you remove the button and connect to it there without any issue

[@Oxyandy]

@@jameslong296 GPIO-0 can not be low at boot, device will enter flash mode, so no not as useful as GPIO-14

[@argon1490]

Did the relay get changed too?

[@playaplaya1132]

I need a smart switch that is rated for 240V 40A. Anyone have any ideas?

[@TheHookUp]

Use a low current smart switch attached to a high current contactor, something like this: amzn.to/2I9Xk25

[@jc-zh9kl]

how bout that basic r3 thats out now, it looks better.

[@TheHookUp]

I've got one ordered

[@kpj54256]

I'm thinking that they sent you a Sonoff RF rather than a Basic. Also, what is that yellow part on the "new" board? could that be the RF part? The new board doesn't even say basic on it which I would think that they would put that on there if it was a basic.

[@ClioSport2016v]

Is is basic version, RF is just print on board as I assume they use same board for RF and basic version. I have ordered around 20 Sonoff basic in last month and half, all of them were new versions, identical to the ones in video

[@CyberlightFG]

Does it have lower power consumption?

[@TheHookUp]

No, it's the same (within a few milliamps)

[@adas4190]

My problem with it is that it won't go in to flash mode. I read that a lot of users have that problem. It might by faulty one.

[@TheHookUp]

I have heard about needing to hold the button down for the entire flash process. Mine didn't have that issue, but it's one that I read about on github message boards.

[@adas4190]

@@TheHookUp i'll give it a go.

[@mikefarm9851]

@@adas4190 in the last 3 weeks, I've ordered 5x Basic and they were R2 v1.0. The flash process is hit/miss. Reading the forum, you need to essentially put in a blank 1meg to flush out the oem FW, then flash with a basic "minimal" load, they I got one of my 5 to flash with Tasmota sonoff_6-4-1-9 and stable. I am having a heck of a time with my other 4 to get Tas onto it. Let me try the "hold down" the button during the flash process - I do have two hands...

[@mikefarm9851]

To add to this, I got my Basic R2 V1 (silk screen with RF), but it's a NON-RF Basic to flash consitently. This issue was the FDTI adaptor, the 3.3V pin was only putting out 3.26V, there was a VCC pin and that was putting out 3.56V. I've used this for my Positive DC lead, and using Python ESP Loader (Windows), put it into Flash mode (standard hold down button, apply 3.56v power, release button - see below as a safty precaution), erase the node. Put it back into flash mode, and load up with Sonof 6.4.1.9 FW, and it boot with LED green and mean. Put in AC Main power, booted up, press button 4x quickly to put it into AP mode, got in to 192.168.4.1 and re-config the WIFI, MQTT, etc. Very consistent! So make sure you have a good FTDI adaptor. Seeing that if RX is plug in, it may not go into flash. I just apply Ground-Ground, Press button, apply 3.56V to the positive lead, let go of the button, apply TX-RX and RX-TX, then flash. Hope this helps.

[@darrinhert9296]

I found a reference in another video for entering flash mode and it worked for me -- consistently. On the 5-hole pinout (with 3v3, Key, Led, K_P, Gnd), jump the K_P and Gnd pins and hold the button on boot. It was a little tricky, but I was able to hold a jumper wire on these two pinouts while holding the button and powered up the device. Simply holding the button on boot did not put it into flash mode. I am unsure if the process works without holding the button, but I was able to consistently place each of my 4 units into flash mode using this method. I then used PyFlasher (as recommended in the Tasmota wiki) to quickly flash the chip and Termite to easily enter my wifi creds (with ssid1 and password1 commands) and connect it to my network.

[@michakrzosek7221]

What's about PWM pin on news version?

[@TheHookUp]

I haven't messed with the newest version.

[@michakrzosek7221]

@@TheHookUp But in newest version there is some available pins with PWM? Because as I know, not all pins could send PWM.

[@iankearns]

So if they have now moved to the 8285 which has the memory on board then there is no way of increasing to a 32Mbit chip such as the Winbond 25Q32FVSIG. This can surely have no benefit to the homebrew community!!

[@curiouslycory]

It's also an ESP8285 instead of an ESP8266. GPIO14 doesn't even exist on the new chip.

[@TheHookUp]

Yep, GPIO5 would have been perfect to break out though. I know it wasn't used at all in the old sonoff, but I didn't check to see if it was used for anything on the new board.

[@tomarq]

I believe GPIO14 is the same physical pin 9 "MTMS" as on the 8266 www.espressif.com/sites/default/files/documentation/0a-esp8285_datasheet_en.pdf

[@curiouslycory]

@@TheHookUp I've been using GPIO4, but it requires soldering a very small lead wire directly to one of the chip's pins. There's two unused gpios on the 8285 that aren't routed anywhere.

[@JasonWho]

@@curiouslycory Which pins? Looking at this diagram (www.devacron.com/espressif-esp8285-what-we-know-so-far/), I can follow GPIO2 pad to it's pin on the 8285 chip so I know where to look for the pins you're talking about

[@coc1909]

pin 9 is gpio14

[@cacchionegiovanni]

Great video!!!!

[@zainhaider8362]

May be it will improve with electromagnetic interference

[@kukumalu255]

But "key" is gpio0 😊 spent half of a day trying to configure the "key" as gpio2 (using it for pushbutton so boot state does nit affect it) just to find out it is gpio0 🤔

[@Mike13527]

Confirmed - the 'key' pad goes low (to gnd) when the pushbutton is pressed, so it IS GPIO0 and NOT GPIO2 as mentioned in the video.

[@isaceletricista5378]

Nao estou conseguindo parea o meu

[@AAA11538]

I believe the new wires were added to comply with more electrical standards.

[@AAA11538]

Should have watched the whole thing before posting!!!

[@coc1909]

guys use key act like gpio 14. or is gpio 14. if connect key to gnd act like a switch

[@thecityviking]

I have a detailed video on gaining access to gpio14 on the Sonoff R2 and how to flash Tasmota onto it. kzbin.info/aero/PLi5v3LPuee5TFEx3wSyHybsEWYjqprEvx

[@LamiaCasaElettrica]

ITEAD ha appena annunciato l’uscita dei nuovi interruttori WiFi Sonoff Basic R3 e RF R3: scopriamone le caratteristiche e come la modalità DIY con le nuovissime Sonoff REST API potrebbe rendere superati i firmware come Tasmota. lamiacasaelettrica.com/sonoff-basic-r3-tasmota-non-serve/

[@jimb032]

It needs sent to JW for a proper analysis. Funny it looks like they were worried about electrical separation And they keep that horrible transformer...

[@TheHookUp]

That transformer has to be the most commonly used part on smart home devices. I've taken apart 50+ different devices at this point, and that thing is ubiquitous.

[@jimb032]

@@TheHookUp sure but I have 2 that failed....those they use are not the same. They are poorly wound

[@TheMixflow]

Why is everyone ignoring the fact that this is an RF board? Isnt it important?

[@TheHookUp]

It isn't. None of the RF circuitry is there, they are likely using the same board for both products, so they silk screened RF onto the non RF board.

[@TheMixflow]

@@TheHookUp thanks I was seriusly scratching my head with the RF name.

[@aihysp]

either you or theo got it wrong... in github page Key is GPIO 0... github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota/wiki/Sonoff-Basic

[@TheHookUp]

I'll double check when I get home, but either way both GPIO2 and GPIO0 cause boot failure if pulled low, so I wouldn't recommend either of them.

[@arrowstheorem1881]

It's a fire hazard if still have flaws

[@TheHookUp]

I agree it is a fire hazard if used improperly, but that could be said about a lot of things.

[@arrowstheorem1881]

@@TheHookUp This product does not meet the European or USA safety standards ? You are saying because some other products are fire hazards, these should be allowed to be fire hazards? Even if used properly, a lousy product will still remain a fire hazard. Are you saying , because cars kill humans in accidents, cars should be allowed to kill humans?

[@TheHookUp]

What I'm saying is that when used properly the sonoff basic is perfectly safe. Certifications in the EU and USA have to account for "reasonable misuse", basically making sure the device is idiotproof. The sonoff basic is not idiot proof.

[@crixi__]

lmao @@arrowstheorem1881 calm down xd