NEW Tamiya German Camo Paints -- DAK & Tri-Colour (XF-92, XF-93, XF-88, XF-89, XF-90)

Today's bonus video will take a look at the two brand new Tamiya German DAK Paints XF-92 and XF-93. We will also check out the other new Tamiya paints that have been out for about a year now: XF-88, XF-89, and XF-90.
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DISCLAIMER: I am not paid to promote any specific products or brands; I just use the products I find work best for me through my experiences. There is no reason for me to promote a bad product, as then I would not enjoy using it, not like the result on my model, and not be proud of publicizing it in a video. There's also no point in me doing this to keep up relations with a company if the only benefit would be getting more of the same products that I didn't like. I have not used every product out there, but from what I have used, I keep using the products I like, and that's why I use them in my videos. You can use whatever other products you would like to and you can feel that they are better - that is your opinion, and is perfectly fine by me, thus I hope that feeling is reciprocated.

[@krautreport202]

Paradoxically Tamiyas NATO colors look quite good for Oliv and Rotbraun. IMO Tamiya "Wooden Deck Tan" with a bit of Buff is excellent for a late Dark Yellow and a bit of a secret tip as far as Tamiya acrylics are concerned.

[@evgeniy4145]

"Wooden Deck Tan" with a bit of Buff - will it be ok for tiger 1?

[@jcjackson726]

Wonderful review and explanation! Thank you. I’m so happy to have Tamiya available in the colors we need. Also, thank you for the alternative mix for the XF-90.

[@georgeh.7238]

Its about time! Years ago I used Humbrol in these colors when painting German AFV's. Humbrol was really accurate and the red brown was right on. Nothing better than German camo.

[@ModelNerd]

Nice to see these colours on a model - thanks for doing the experimental work for us! The DAK colours look particularly good. Great to see Tamiya updating their paint line - it seems a neglected area of their offerings.

[@chris-creativeguypl]

We`re lucky we`ve got You. Thanks for great review and an explanation how to mix paints.

[@NorthPark619]

Thanks for this little video Evan. I just ordered XF-88, X-89 and XF-90 and plan to try them out on my upcoming Jagdtiger build

[@tomlavelle8518]

Glad to see Tamiya adding to its color range. Have used Tamiya acrylics for years.

[@JonBius]

Thanks for the review! Good to see Tamiya releasing new colors.

[@FlokisModels]

Thank you for actually comparing these to the old Tamiya and also the AK Real Colors this saved me a lot of testing.

[@mwencil]

Great video! I didn't know about these new Tamiya colors. Very helpful!

[@fleetwarrior75]

I think folks are way too picky about these colors unless your building a factory fresh machine these colors varied widely with weather and combat conditions and depending how long vehicle was in service and how colors were applied, love the channel!

[@BrailleScale]

I think the real argument stems from some of what Panzermeister36 talks about- since Tamiya paints are often the "standard" and they have never really offered "out of the bottle" solutions until now, many people have listed their custom blends over time and I could certainly see how old club meet comments or hobby form threads of "hmm, your Panzergrey seems too dark" and "that late war German green is way too pale" turned into pant chip spectrum analysis and factory record searches (which I agree is not my cup of tea, but if that's how others get enjoyment from the history of the hobby- great for them! I only get upset if someone tells me my paint is too this or too that- which really doesn't happen that often to me these days). It does seem to have turned in to people arguing about, for example, which companies 4BO is "the right one" even though I tend to agree with you, it is probably harder to find the "wrong" shade as dozens if not hundreds of factors contributed to which batch of paint was put on what vehicle and which factory during what year painted it and where the vehicle wound up after what kind of weather and combat and field applied this or that... As long as it "looks right" (and I mean "looks plausible") then it's good enough for me :)

[@rotwang2000]

Yes and no, we went from "This is the official colour !" to "Hey they probably had some degree of variety in paint standards due to various issues arising during the war" to "Well it was war-time and it's a Soviet tank so anything is possible." The problem is that with the "anything is possible." Approach you end up with somebody coming up with a good excuse to paint a tank purple over say Olive Drab "Anything is possible, right ?" Now that example may be extreme, but let's look at the camo paint provided by the German army for use in the field on standard Dark Yellow tanks. It could be thinned with things like turpentine or gasoline or even with water and as far as I could ascertain paint thinned with solvents tended to be a bit darker and more opaque, while paint thinned with water was a bit lighter and slightly more translucent. Olive Drab paint in my opinion tends to weather into a pale, chalky tone, it doesn't get a blue or yellow tinge like some other paints because of its makeup. You're not wrong in saying that variety can indeed be quite considerable, but not unlimited. Some options don't work or are incorrect no matter what. 4BO is one of those things that is almost universally flexible to some people because of the assumption that the Soviets were either unable to even produce a consistent paint and were so pressed for time that they would throw anything on a tank and get it over with, including hot purple. Except that even the Soviets considered some paints unacceptable and did send tanks back to the factory for a repaint. As much as people would want it to be broadly defined 4BO had at least some basic standards much of the time. Our understanding of paint and weather is indeed incomplete, but we may sometimes be a bit too cavalier about doing options that are not entirely plausible even with the "anything is possible because wartime" claim. Like I said broad variety is possible, but not all variety is possible. In the end it's perhaps a moot point, we use every possible technique and we constantly cheat to get a visual representation, which is not always a close match with reality, but a super accurate model might end up look extremely boring ... It's just a thought.

[@BrailleScale]

There's really more than one way to approach vehicle colors though. The more scientific approach of "this is the exact color within the allowable 3% variation" is much better suited to 1:1 scale restoration of actual vehicles in my opinion. If the scale modeler plans to use filters and pin washes, let alone streaking, color modulation, and weathering like mud, dust, etc. then the end result will certainly not appear to be the same "correct" color. This also doesn't even get into the scale effect caused by attempting to replicate an appropriate atmosphere. The atmosphere acts as filter itself which can shift color value, tone, and saturation in the real world. I'm not suggesting one paints a Sherman purple, but surely when you see blue, tree covered hills in the distance, one doesn't assume the hills are actually covered with blue trees. Achieving a convincing vehicle at 35th scale is going to be lighter than the real thing - post weathering and effects (and as mentioned in the video, weathering and effects typically darken up the base color) so a significantly lighter base color should be used from an artistic perspective. I'm sure there is a scientific formula to calculate the proper atmospheric scaling factor, but many, myself included, just spray a color that looks or feels "right". I would argue that if one uses the exact same color to paint a 1:1 scale restoration, a 1:35 scale version, and a 1:72 scale version, only one of those vehicles can be "correct" even though the same color was used across all three.

[@mikeshea398]

Your post reminded me when two railfans came up to me during a pause from switching and were arguing over the ATSF yellow on the two GP-30's I was switching with near Commerce CA. (I'm retired from BNSF). Keep in mind they were arguing whether or not the yellow was accurate - on the actual power being used!!! It was all I could do from biting my lip and saying, "No Guys! - I painted it myself with Floquil … with a detail brush!" Haha!!!

[@BrailleScale]

@@mikeshea398 😂😂😂

[@theenigmaticgamer]

Thanks for a very informative video. I think you made things very clear and have certainly helped me with future purchases.👍

[@briandeney1615]

This really helps. Thank's for taking the time.

[@kenkarns2272]

Most excellent paint tutorial! I placed an order as a result and will be following closely how you treat your PZ. III here. Well done.

[@david1274]

Thank you for this informative video. I am looking forward trying the new Dunkelgelb. Regarding the brown: to my knowledge RAL 8017 (Schokoladenbraun) was used. Italeri (4797AP) has an acrylic paint that represents this tone just perfect.

[@bill832]

I'm getting back into the hobby after 25 years. Your videos are incredibly helpful - THANKS!

[@Panzermeister36]

Cheers Bill. I am glad you enjoy my videos. Welcome back to the hobby!

[@HamilkarBarkasScaleModelling]

Very interesting comparison between the paints there! Although i don´t use any Tamiya paints this was very useful. I also recognized what i need to change for future DAK models i will build :)

[@edwardkennedy5680]

Excellent review P36 as usual ,bought 88,89,90 2days ago and had to rush downstairs to check that I'd bought the right ones🤗 Phew! Can't wait to try them out! Timony 47.

[@foreverplastickits138]

Thanks for the test, Tamiya reacted well with this new paints.

[@anthonyfoley3401]

Excellent review, very thorough!

[@jupiterlicht789]

Thank you for the great presentation of the colours. I think XF93 Tamiya will be my new colour for my Warhammer army :D thanks

[@Senbonzakura776]

Cool vid. About to get back into building German armor and this totally helped as I've been looking for paints.

[@Panzermeister36]

Glad to hear that :)

[@toddw14]

Good Review. I used the new Tamiya tri-colors on my last build & while I do like the DY2 & OG2 the RB2 seems to be less red-brown & have more of an olive drab hue to it. Tamiya XF-60 is a little too dark IMO so I add a touch of Buff to lighten it.

[@kampfgruppepeiper501]

I’m picking these up today from Hobbies HQ in Connecticut! Thanks for the review

[@Panzermeister36]

Hope you enjoy them!

[@Emergenttheory]

Thanks for this update.

[@ArmourEmpire]

Cheers Evan good review mate personally I think your mix is more pleasing to the eye, as the brown Tamiya throws of the trinity:)

[@bobjackson5480]

Nice review, yes finally we get more accurate colors for our tanks. I never liked the panzer yellow, always added a touch of white and buff to it to lighten it up some and not so yellow. For the brown, I always used leather brown , I always thought the Tamiya red brown was too dark and red. After weathering, and modulation, my colors looked more spot on to a tank in field. My opinion and some of my friends

[@Panzermeister36]

Thank you for the advice! I will try out those mixes once I get the chance.

[@lyleslaton3086]

🎶ramblin, rambling man 🎶 Glad to see Tamiya making new colors, I'd givem an E for effort. They have a tendency to let stuff slide.

[@theblytonian3906]

Thorough. Helpful.Thanks.

[@Android-rz8mb]

Wonderful video as always I wish Tamiya would release a Elfenbien interior ivory

[@Panzermeister36]

I agree. I will have to try the AK Real Color.

[@dantimmerman6693]

I really like Mission Models Elfenbein. It looks great, but I still have issues mixing it right for my airbrush. I really struggle with that stuff but never had issues with any other paints before.

[@BrailleScale]

@@dantimmerman6693 I agree, I have some issues with their line. It seems to spray too thick from the bottle from time to time, but they tell you not to thin it beyond 10%. I've gotten to the point where I can use it well for solid base coats, but not really to any fine degree of success with freehand work. Wondering if it's not the paint, but something with my set up (the air pressure I'm used to spraying at, the larger brush nozzle/needle sizes...) More practice for me I think... Adding their poly additive to the mix seemed to help a bit if I recall. Hopefully one day I'll get a hang of it. I do like their colors and quality (when it works!) without the harsher chemicals.

[@dantimmerman6693]

@@BrailleScale I am not sure what the real issue is as I always change one variable at a time and nothing seems to work except for thinning down more than they tell you to. I believe my ratio that works is 20 drops of paint 12 drops of thinner and four drops of poly and sprayed at 22 psi with .35 needle. My suggestion is to try changing one variable at a time until you find a combo that works for you.

[@brucethemodelnoob]

Tamiya White with a few drops of Dark Yellow 2 makes a great elfenbein.

[@vasili1207]

This is why I make my own colours... if I don't know the name of the colour nobody can say it's wrong.

[@DrewsModels]

Nice review! I wish Tamiya would make RLM and FS colors for plane modelers.

[@Vegeta-ci8xu]

Try Ak Interactive Real Color :)

[@Panzermeister36]

AK RC are generally very good. Their RAL7008 was not correct, but otherwise I have been happy with the other 15 or so paints of theirs that I have tried.

[@Vegeta-ci8xu]

@@Panzermeister36 Gray Green? Did you used it for DAK vehicles? Bought the AFV Color Wooden Box and I'm going to paint a DAK Vehicle soon

[@Panzermeister36]

Yeah. I used it with the AK RC RAL8000 and their 7008 was way too light and barely green. It was hard to distinguish from the 8000 base to be honest. So I made my own RAL7008 from equal parts AK RC 4BO green and AK RC RAL7027. I've also painted a tank with the AK RC RAL8020 base and RAL7027 camo and those two colours were perfect. So it's just the RAL7008 that was wrong. 8000, 8020, and 7027 in that set are all perfect.

[@stevenpiper970]

I always read "what color green did you use"?, this looks like that question has been answered, I like that green very much.

[@mat13channel]

Thanks for this comparison. Yeah, I wasn't really satisfied how XF-60 (Dark Yellow) looks on German tanks by itself, will try Dark Yellow 2 next time.

[@AlexandrMI-]

Thanks for the review. XF-90 it Tamiya didn’t work out. But in XF-88 my opinion is perfect and for modern technology in the desert.

[@chrissteadman4614]

Hugely useful, many thanks! Now, if only they did a good 4BO!

[@BladeRunner21577]

I wondered when somebody was going to do a review on these, I got mine a week or so ago

[@lesgl]

The old XF60 is more like the more late war '44ish Sand gelb which had a greenish tinge to it..the new one is spot on for the earlier '43 colour..so in a way Tamiya has now got both versions of the colour

[@VGModelling]

Hi, nice review! The best RAL 8000/7008 combo for me is Gunze H-402 Grunbraun/H-81 Khaki ;) I will use those paints for my new RFM Tiger Initial. Tamiya XF-93 is good for RAL 8020 and XF-92 could be used for RAL 7027. So the Tamiya pains can be used for the second tropen scheme. Xf-90 seems lacks reddish tone. Regards!

[@THROTTLEPOWER]

Love what your doing and always look forward to the latest video! Hope to be able to make my new channel as good as yours some day. Thanks, Tim

[@BrailleScale]

Haha no complaints here- got to say, I mix my stuff in the brush cup too- if anyone asks, I'll tell em I'm replicating the historical effects of tank crews in the field just tossing pigments into gasoline and having at it! By no means am I a rivet counter and I think as you point out, even if colors are factory accurate, the scale effect of the vehicle makes it look too dark and weathering, mud, stains, pin washes, all darken it up as well. So I will usually try to achieve a faded, sun bleached look as if it has been some time since it rolled out of the factory. Very cool to see how close Tamiya got the DAK colors to the AK colors, which you also point out are very close to the real thing from what you can tell. Personally, since AK Real Colors do such a good job of providing a wider, "out of the bottle" range, I'd be curious to see some reviews of their colors and your thoughts on if they are as good, or if Tamiya is still the best (I assume if you wanted to, you can mix the Tamiya color with the AK color as they can both be thinned with the same lacquer mediums?)

[@Panzermeister36]

Yeah AK RC and Tamiya are both compatible with lacquer thinner so they should be fine together. I'll be using the AK RC much more soon to get a better feel for it.

[@BrailleScale]

@@Panzermeister36 very cool! Looking forward to it, I am definitely a fan of a lot of their other products and know you've been using a lot of their line on your T34 buddy build 👍🏻

[@cygnusx10]

The DAK colours don't appear to be available here (England) at the moment - probably due to the cough, but will check them out when they do arrive. And aren't the "2" colours supposed to represent very late war colours - like mid/late '44 onwards? Great video (as usual) and thanks for sharing.

[@Panzermeister36]

Possibly late war, but I still think they look better than the older ones...especially the old green and yellow.

[@TheMadMax1000]

Just bought a tin of each.. going to see if Sherwin Williams can upscale the volume for some Armortek builds. Cheers

[@willthorson4543]

I never use colors out of the bottle on anything. No matter the company, they all are too dark to me. After washes and weathering, it would get even darker. My breakdoen of colors goes a lot farther than 2 colors. I definitely use yellow 2. But I add several colors, from clear yellow to flesh. It just depends on the time of year my model represents. Green alone for me tends to be at least 4 colors before adding lighter colors. I just love the challenge of eyeing colors.

[@maxbrandt6]

Also good for Maschinen Krieger models too!

[@billycontinental1849]

There are more than 4 variations of RAL 7028, Dunkelgelb. Later variations can appear nearly olive green or gray, but it was so close to the end of the war I wonder if any tanks were ever painted those later variations of the ausgabe '44. The tank museum sampled the underside of a lid from an equipment box. Who knows what variation that was and if tanks where ever painted that shade. I've seen some equipment with different pieces in different variations of 7028. Don't lose too much sleep over your shade of it. The green and red/brown camo colors were supplied as blocks of pigment that were thinned with fuel and sprayed in the field, in proportions according to surroundings. I suspect those camo color tones where fairly inconsistent, but I have no proof. I've seen some good examples of fuel canisters with original camo paint, but they're old, dirty and look like they've been through a war ;) Perfection is reality.

[@xRepoUKx]

Great video.

[@davidquak4398]

6:47 i dont like the AK dark yellow but your Green and Brown are spot on.

[@mikeshea398]

Hey Panzermeister. I'm getting hooked on Afrika Korps armor and history and was wondering what 1/35 Tiger 1 would best represent that Campaign? I was looking at the Tamiya but some are suggesting the turret isn't correct. Any suggestions? I'm a noob (I mostly build ships) when it comes to German armor, especially the Tiger 1 variants. Thanks!!!

[@simonbennett9486]

Appreciate the review Pm36, but concur with Zero's comments below, and just to add that it was usually only the dark yellow painted on in the factories, with the green and red/brown supplied in the form of tins of concentrated paste to be applied in the field. This was thinned with either gasoline or water, and applied by spray-gun if possible, but often a mop would do. So now you might start to see the myriad of shades and finishes that vehicles could end up. And that's not allowing for the effects of winter whitewash, mud and dust, rust, engine exhaust and oil, and finally the crew and any passengers! At the end of the day it all boils down to personal taste within the general spirit of what they're supposed to look like. Finally, a heretical comment but I preferred the old darker XF60, but then I'm just an old school dinosaur ;o)

[@Panzermeister36]

German camouflages were factory applied for much of the war. Only from mid 1942 to late summer 1944 were crews applying them. Tropical camouflages were applied at the factory, and late-war stuff was applied at the factory in specific patterns. Even the last Panthers and King Tigers built in the final days of the war still used these camouflage patterns.

[@simonbennett9486]

​@@Panzermeister36 Well pointed out, and not trying to rain on your parade. Only other thought to put out there is that by late war supplies of most things including paint were at best erratic and I would suggest variations would be commonplace.

[@zachhan5038]

What you like and what is correct are two very different things.

[@handznet]

I am using these and lighten them both up all the time. The red brown is insanely dark and makes your model very dark when used out of bottle.

[@justinw.360]

would xf-92 be appropriate for the tiger 131? it’s hard to tell since they do not list the RAL

[@DavidSmith-bd7he]

At around 7 min. mark I'd say your stug yellow has a greenish (darker) tint compare to the xf-88

[@andrewpalella9015]

Hey man, great review! Helped me figure out what to do for RAL 8000 on my 1/35 Academy Panzer III J which I picked up the other day. Lightened the whole mini jar of XF-92 with 12 drops of flat white. Looks pretty good so far as its drying. Question though, do you have a personal recommendation for RAL 7008? I've seen 3:1 Tamiya khaki to olive drab, but I wanted to ask you first before I paint since I think you've got the best handle on German colors out of anyone I've seen on the internet. Cheers, Andrew

[@VGModelling]

The best out of the bottle RAL 8000/7008 is Gunze H-402/H-81, IMHO ;)

[@Ricks135scalemodels]

Outstanding video. I do modern German and like the Tamiya acrylics. Do you have any idea on matching there desert colors for the Afgan units they deployed?

[@Panzermeister36]

Sorry I'm not very knowledgeable on modern NATO stuff, especially the paints.

[@Ricks135scalemodels]

@@Panzermeister36 thank you for letting me know and keep doing these type videos.

[@manuc4093]

Great video. In this part of the world (Argentina) tamiya has long ceased to be available on the market. Its high costs, tax burdens and restrictions due to being flammable elements (in addition to the glues of many brands) made acrylic paint have more presence in the Latin American market. I long for the time when luxury brands like Tamiya return. Question: Are we facing a paradigm shift regarding the chemical composition of paintings in the hobby? Greetings from Argentina.

[@derekbaker3279]

Excellent vid Panzermeister! I have one question & a few thoughts... Given that some modellers do preshading & apply a somewhat translucent base coat, wouldn't the base colour (e.g. dark yellow) be affected by the colour of the primer? 🤔 I'm wondering if the 1941 base colour for Afrika Korps AFVs should be judged by spraying it over Dunkelgrau, as the Afrika Korps initially received tanks that had already been painted the standard German Grey, then 'painted' them using mud or using the 1941 base colour. Similarly, shouldn't we judge the 1942 Afrika Korps colour & the new late war German Dark Yellow by spraying it over Tamiya's Red Oxide primer? 🤔 Last, but not least, I wonder how much the type of artificial lighting in our work area (and the amount of natural light on cloudy or sunny days that the room receives) affects our judgement of the colours. Also, in real world applications, the perceived colours on German tanks would have depended very much with latitude (Dunkelgrau or Dunkelgelb in Leningrad vs.Sevastapol vs. southern France/Italy, plus during summer when the sun is higher in the sky than it is in the winter. So, how the paint colour on a model appears in natural light for you would be different than a model builder in the southern U.S.A.. I know that the latitude effect is not subtle for interior & exterior paints for buildings, so I wonder if & how Tamiya 'calibrated' these historical colours with the 'colour temperature' of the lighting. 🤔 Thanks. ☺

[@Panzermeister36]

Certainly in the case of preshading I think it might be something to consider. Personally I only do post shading so my base colour is always applied as a solid coat, meaning the primer doesn't really affect the final colour. But you do have a point...I just didn't think about that since I never use the technique you mentioned.

[@chilliges7259]

Tamiya paints >>>>>>>>>

[@Nitro4x4]

Plan to pick up some of these eventually, but the only thing I wish Tamiya would do is increase the pot size on those. I think most all of their paint comes in both 10ml, and 23ml pots...EXCEPT numbers above XF-71. These do not come in the larger size.

[@JSTRonline2]

I'm still trying to figure out why they have two separate sizes at all. I haven't run into any other model/miniature paint company doing that!

[@Panzermeister36]

I haven't seen one of the larger ones in years. I thought they were older paints which explains why they don't exist past number 71...that was the end of the line at the time.

[@od1452]

Thanks for the info. I confess the really good German (German Museums) restorations are a browner tan than I would have thought. The thinner selected by a resource strapped Germany probably altered the color some plus too many other variables to count . I have seen variations in color ( that is supposed to be uniform) in U.S. camo on Armored vehicles in the 80s ..and the painting regulation schemes and colors were often not followed . But often companies in Battalions could be recognized by their version of the pattern as there would a degree of uniformity in the company. .But there would always be a couple of outliers .. probably because they were in maintenance at the time of repainting. I have read a lot on WW2 soviet green ( 4BO and earlier ) over the years and still feel I don't really know what to think. I realize it must have varied . The German veterans I've talked to always said it was Olive...so..

[@Panzermeister36]

Well keep in mind that early in the war the German tan colour was not the same used later. From 1941- early 1943 the paint used was RAL8000 (which you can see on Tiger 131) which is a much more brown colour as it was first made for North Africa. However it was used extensively in Russia too. In early 1943 they introduced RAL7028 which is the standard dark yellow and is a much more yellow colour than the previous one.

[@od1452]

@@Panzermeister36 Thanks. Believe me I know. I've researched Russian and German colors for years and I'm afraid it the old story for me,.. The more you know the less you believe.

[@MisterHampshire]

Good video, I liked it (and thankfully no background music fighting the narration which is brilliant), but I would echo other poster's opinions that we can be too picky over colours. I am a model aircraft modeller, 1/48 generally, as opposed to 'armour' but the same principles apply. You can take any colour you like, but if manufacturers have variations over any one FS colour which, after all, is supposed to be fixed and standard, then we're on a hiding to nothing. I've seen the arguments over aircraft models - someone has chose X brand of FS Gull Grey over Y brand because A brand's Gull Grey looks more accurate. What does that say? FS Gull Grey should be just that, no matter who produces it. But it isn't. I do not in any way criticise anybody's pursuit of accuracy: I like accuracy as much as the next person, but so long as the colour I use - which in real life fades, weathers, looks different in different lighting, is made in different batches - is 'close enough' that's acceptable to me. So yes, so long as there's a mid-grey where there should be a mid-grey and not dark grey, where there's a lemon yellow there's a lemon yellow and not a primrose yellow, I don' think we should beat ourselves up too much about it. Nonetheless, I am glad Tamiya are releasing more colours to what is a comparatively limited range, and if I were to make tanks, then yes I would go for the specific colours on offer.

[@SpooningwithLuna]

Great video! What matt varnish did you use on that cool looking panzer !?

[@Panzermeister36]

Usually I use Testors Dullcote.

[@SpooningwithLuna]

@@Panzermeister36 I am surprised by your answer, I did not know. I had been using Testers dullcote since the 1980's on my tanks. All these years later my tanks have turned a darker color... almost a yellowish brown. I used to set the closed bottle of dull coat in a bowl of warm/hot water to even melt the wax more in the dull coat before spraying on the model (old school trick). As great as that product looks at first it changes the model after many years. I have stopped using it and have been looking for a good substitute since. If you have another recommendation other than Testors Dullcoat Lacquor I would love to hear about it. Love watching your videos! I bought these Tamiya colors you reviewed and can't wait to try them.

[@dantimmerman6693]

I am happy that Tamiya decided to lighten their colors. I will still mix in a bot of hull red to the brown bit overall I really enjoy the new colors for sure. We'll see what they look like after some modulation and a good weathering. These colors also mean we can highlight the old tritone without any mixing.

[@8bitgamer85]

It would be cool if Tamiya made all the German RLM, Panzer, Japanese IJNAF/IJAAF, and Soviet VVS colors so we don't have to mix colors. We can brush paint it or airbrush from the bottle.

[@canton7180]

originally these pigments where issued as paste IRL either diluted with gasoline or water, no 2 german tank's paint where exactly the same, there is a lot of latitude for variations.

[@Panzermeister36]

Well after August 1944 all German tanks were painted in the full 2 or 3 colour camouflage at the factory. This was for standardization and also so they would be camouflaged during rail transport to the units.

[@canton7180]

@@Panzermeister36 okay good to know I was under the impression paste where used throughout, thank you

[@ratled1]

That XF90 would make a rust affect

[@mage1935]

I've seen WW2 photos of the tanks in North Africa and they look pretty dark yellow-brown so XF-92 may be accurate.

[@Panzermeister36]

Yeah, I think it is accurate in the bottle, but I am worried weathering will darken it even further and it will then be too dark.

[@starscream8163]

Are Tamiya Flat colors is better than gloss colors for Transformers toys?

[@marketinggarden7488]

Could XF93 be substituted to XF59? I have a modern tank that I want to paint but cant find any XF59 near my area

[@Panzermeister36]

The colour is a little different but if it's your only option I guess you could go for it.

[@dantimmerman6693]

Nice Ostketten btw.

[@Panzermeister36]

Thank you! They're the excellent Kaizen tracks.

[@vernski1015]

Just an FYI. Check out the actual RAL color swatches and one will discover that the Brown color is actually a chocolate color, so Tamiya nailed it. The tank museum has a video that discusses the RAL colors that the Germans were using during the war and they give you the numbers they used. I definitely recommend checking it out because it proves that the colors we have been using for all these decades are wrong.

[@Panzermeister36]

I have original tank parts painted in RAL8000. It's brown but not chocolate brown. Also, if you get RAL swatches today, they are not the same as they were 75 years ago; the colours have changed (even the "RAL Classic" series). The Bovington Tank Museum isn't exactly a trustworthy source. They lied for decades with their Matilda's Blue Caunter Scheme. They have 1941 Barbarossa tanks painted in 1939 two-colour camouflages. And they keep perpetuating the myth of German tanks being deployed in red oxide primer at the end of the war which is absolutely not true.

[@konstantinsukhinin6389]

Whats airbrush pressure use? Thx!

[@Panzermeister36]

15-18 psi I guess. Tamiya paints are super easy to spray.

[@donfrandsen7778]

When are these out in general release? USA?

[@Panzermeister36]

They've been in stores for 3 weeks now.

[@mdstmouse7]

are the AK paints laquers like tamiya? thinned with iso?

[@Panzermeister36]

I thin them with either Tamiya Lacquer thinner or Tamiya X-20A. The AK Real Color paints are very similar to Tamiya.

[@mdstmouse7]

@@Panzermeister36 I love how tamiiya spray but Ive grown tired of mixing colors. appreciate the review.

[@mdstmouse7]

im surprised you use laquer thinner to thin your paints. it gives a better result but it wore down my 0 rings fast

[@Panzermeister36]

Paint and thinner should not be getting into the air-control portions of your airbrush. The paint stays in the cup and simply mixes with air in the nozzle. I have been doing this for 5 years and not a single O-ring has failed me.

[@mdstmouse7]

@@Panzermeister36 wow all mine on my harder and steenbeck infinity had to be replaced. even the air control. only used airbrush cleaner to clean it too.

[@mantigorr8558]

The Dark Green2 XF 89 is not new, i have this since 20years about and named as Dark Green2 XF 81!? Really New?

[@starscream8163]

Is XF-Flat colors are smoother than X-Gloss colors?

[@Panzermeister36]

It's hard to say as I have limited experience with Tamiya gloss colours. However, I can say that Tamiya XF paints do lay down very smoothly, especially when thinned with Mr.Color Leveling Thinner 400.

[@nakitaluckysibih5581]

Can you do a build review of Ammo's July 1945 King Tiger

[@Panzermeister36]

I will be building it in August. I have it set up with another friend who knows King Tigers more, so we will both build them together on Facebook. But I'll also film it for KZbin.

[@nakitaluckysibih5581]

Thanks. Uhh what's your real name?

[@Panzermeister36]

Evan

[@nakitaluckysibih5581]

Okay. Noted!

[@cjkirkland2334]

Where did you find the new colors?

[@Panzermeister36]

Bought them at my local hobby shop. They've partially reopened with some restrictions due to the pandemic.

[@claytonmcclain182]

Where did you get that xf 92 xf93 I can't find them for sale?

[@Panzermeister36]

I bought them at my local hobby shop.

[@claytonmcclain182]

@@Panzermeister36 Odd they don't even show them as out yet here in the states? Not even on the internet. I looked them up as XF92 and XF93. Very odd

[@Panzermeister36]

Oh actually, that makes sense. I saw on HobbyLinkJapan that the USA has blocked some shipping companies from Japan due to the pandemic so they're having trouble at the moment. Hopefully this passes soon.

[@davidcole333]

XF-60 does NOT have a slightly green tent. What are you looking at?

[@Panzermeister36]

I'm looking at every model painted with straight XF-60.

[@jagervw]

No offense, but if you do more research you will note that RAL 8000 was very dark. I have seen a near perfect example of a DAK water can in that color.

[@Panzermeister36]

I said in the video that the colour is correct, only that I was worried that after washes and other weathering it might darken it further.

[@diegodicastelletto]

xf93 =Ak ral 8000?? exact?? but the ak ral 7008 corresponds to which color tamiya ??

[@Panzermeister36]

XF-92 corresponds to RAL8000. Tamiya does not make RAL7008. XF-49 is close though though. I wish Tamiya would have also made RAL7008 and RAL7027 to go with their RAL8000 (XF-92) and RAL8020 (XF-93).

[@diegodicastelletto]

@@Panzermeister36 it would be nice that they produced that ral ... but it is true the xf49 is approaching I followed your video because I would like to try my hand at painting an Afrika tiger. lend themselves as a starting point for its realization

[@Panzermeister36]

I have not tried it myself, but XF-59 and XF-49 used to be the two closest colours for RAL8000 and RAL7008. So XF-92 is meant to replace XF-59...but XF-49 still stands. I am not sure how it looks next to XF-92. I would recommend you test it out first. Either way XF-49 is a good starting point for that colour.

[@bigjohnny9294]

where do you bought the XF-92？

[@Panzermeister36]

I picked it up at my local hobby shop here in Canada.

[@BladeRunner21577]

Dod you know some of the tanks in Kubinka have never been resprayed?

[@Panzermeister36]

Maybe their Soviet stuff. I would not trust their German equipment on that topic. I have photos of those German tanks being tested in the 40s and they are have all been repainted green.

[@BladeRunner21577]

@@Panzermeister36 Im not so sure if we are talking about the same vehicles. Some of them have been repainted, some of them havent.

[@Panzermeister36]

I'm not sure which vehicles have not been repainted though. Do you have a list of them?

[@BladeRunner21577]

@@Panzermeister36 I dont have a definative list and the photos I took aint that good either. I was talking to one of the guys there and while my Russian is a bit rusty he was saying that there are some that have not been painted. Some clearly have and I didnt ask about them but some havent as the paint is clearly very very old

[@BladeRunner21577]

@@Panzermeister36 Im not sure about the Soviet stuff, I was asking only about the German tanks they have. the guy was rather candid with me about it all to be honest and yes some of the colours they paint them they are just close modern matches to what people think they should be but some, one of the StuG III they have for instance has never been painted, it is as it was when it was captured. I would really like to chat to you more about it if you are willing, I can email you some of the photos I took etc and we can compare notes

[@teotselek1536]

I prefer the good old xf60 cause the new dark yellow is not even dark! It seems to me like light sandy color and I don't think it provides any true camo against Europe 's greenery!!

[@DieTabbi]

this colors are all only 10ml? no 23ml?

[@Panzermeister36]

I live in Canada and we only have 10ml Tamiya paints here for some reason.

[@vincentfiore2228]

Give me a break. How long do you think the color will stay true after the tank is in the field for a couple days

[@Panzermeister36]

German paints are base oxides which cannot fade, since they have already broken down to their lowest level. So.....for years?

[@danielc.8006]

Did you white balance this video before you began?

[@richardc-ex7rt]

Still no RLM 74, 75, or 76......

[@Panzermeister36]

Well that's aircraft stuff, not my area :)

[@frankvanoers6279]

Only in 10ml . .

[@evgeniy4145]

Sorry. I painted Tiger 1 in Tamiya XF-93... it turned out very pinkish. I don’t think that Tiger 1 in Africa was this color.

[@Panzermeister36]

That's Tropentarn 2 base, meant to be RAL8020. Tiger 1 were painted in Tropentarn 1 which is RAL8000 base.

[@joshvellieux8693]

Curious how these new Tamiya paint compare to the Model Master colors

[@Panzermeister36]

No idea. I don't use Model Master paints. Maybe I should get some.

[@tonyromano6220]

AK color looks too green.

[@Panzermeister36]

Might just be my lighting. It's not green in person.

[@tonyromano6220]

Panzermeister36 lol, mine looks kind of green......Vallejo. Honestly I think technique makes for good German cammo more than exact shade. Fun stuff, thanks for videos.

[@PanzerRanger]

Why is the AK real color garbage?

[@Panzermeister36]

Because it is indestinguishable from the AK RC Ral8000. Ral7008 should be much more green than the AK Real Color Ral7008.

[@PanzerRanger]

@@Panzermeister36 thanks

[@PanzerRanger]

@Panzermeister36 By the way what compressor are you using?

[@efeyigit6766]

First!

[@kevinwebster7868]

Nothing worse than overly picky modelers.

[@Panzermeister36]

I like my own models to be accurate. I don't force that upon others. Not sure why that's not okay...

[@egyeneskifli7808]

Always amused how people can knifefight about colors no currently living person ever seen. And there is not a single reliable reference of these paints, except a sole rangefinder in Dunkelgelb in Bovington. Germens were quite thorough while destroying every Nazi related thing after WWII. No RLM or Wehrmacht RAL color standards sirvived this purge. So, everybody just guessing. Old color or colored photos are not acceptable as references. Especially when you don't know what kind of film used, and how those films were developed , and transfered to what kind of paper. BTW: the white balance and the overall color fidelity of this video is outright trash. I have the XF-88 and XF-93, they look totally different than in the video. And compared the Tank Museum announcement video of the finding of the rangefinder is again shows way too different color than in this video (but its similar to my bottles of paint). For the sake of credibility you should use a much better camera. At least for a color analysis video. The problem of comparing the XF-88 to the XF-60 in this case is you compare a fresly painted XF-88 to a weathered (which means darkened) XF-60. In real life the XF-60 is not this much dark. You should compare apples to apples, not apples to apricots.

[@Panzermeister36]

There are tons of original samples of those colours. I myself have a couple of original panzer parts with RAL7028 and RAL8020 shown in good condition. We even have German wartime paint chips that were handed out to manufacturers documented. I'm not sure what you're really talking about there, and what you're discussing regarding colour photos doesn't even apply to AFGAcolor film the Germans used. People like to get all up in arms about how somehow all surviving paint chips and samples have faded, all colour photos are unusable, and every factory used different shades of paint. All three are wrong and are just people conclusion shopping to ignore loads of evidence. At that point, why not go all the way and just say Germans painted everything green? If you're going to ignore all evidence, that would be equally valid. And it's equally ridiculous.