New Workshop MDF Work Surfaces with T-Track // Sealing MDF with Shellac

[@vpoves1]

The first half of the kzbin.infoUgkx3ICSK6nSknaL_45CU2NmFSoXjarGMDiJ book is everything about wood: types, tools, finishes, setting up shop etc. The second half is all about doing projects for inside and outside of the home. The color pictures are helpful. After reading a dozen of these types of books, this is probably the best overall (layout, color photos, plans). Only detraction is that many of the projects use a table saw/router/planer, which are usually expensive and take up space, so the plans are less friendly to newcomers and the budget conscious. But I know I can use a drill, circular saw or a jigsaw to make the projects.

[@freeflyer6170]

I respect you and all the commenter’s here and your choices to use MDF. I personally use and have for over 40 plus years, cabinet grade plywood. I typically use 3/4” maple plywood. I use maple because it’s what I keep in my shop, it’s what I build cabinets and many things with. First of all it looks good, it has a hard wood veneer, typically a poplar core, and it’s stable. If I need to double up for strength or whatever reason, so be it. If I’m working on a project and need to fasten a stop or hold down or whatever I can screw into it and know it will hold. When I remove the screw, if need be I can epoxy or wood fill the hole. When it gets messed up with glue, epoxy, spilled finish or whatever, I can sand it. We are talking “work bench”. On all counts it’s far superior to MDF, although MDF is a little more stable but not by much. Let’s face it, once you get past the hard surface of MDF, its flakey underneath and at the edges. For those of you concerned with the cost difference or are strapped for cash, I can understand, but in the long run, plywood is only second to solid wood and much more stable.

[@BGP369]

Did mine with pure tung oil. 3 coats at the end of each work day dried by the next day. Its been a few years since then and its doing great. The only thing I would change if i were to redo it would be to screw from under, not on top. those screws on top will depress the MDF slightly, causing the surface to concave.

[@57xmasbaby]

I've got twenty five years in the cabinet shop after 12 years as a union carpenter and been using MDF for my work table tops the whole time. It's a solid surface , I use the 1' on my main assembly table on top of the maple floor boards from the Balboa Park Gym which I used as the sub top and have had the same assembly table for twenty five years. It's solid , made me a living and if it gets marred or a few holes , who cares. Scars are a part of life, it shows you lived, worked and fought once in a while. I've seen some of these shops on you tube and they run the gamut , I need a clean work surface to start the project but after that from chaos comes inspiration and maybe art. Good luck with your endeavors

[@Benakuzo2]

I've had the chance to use this table a couple of times now. It's fun to whip out in front of people:) I can see what people are talking about when they say the legs are delicate, but they're design to support a "mostly" vertical load, not be torqued from the side or pushed back into place. If you just let the table open or close on it's own and don't force anything, it works great kzbin.infoUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh Once it's set up, it's pretty solid. My only gripe would probably be related to the clamps provided. They're not the highest quality. They do the job, so no big deal, but they could be better. All in all, pretty cool gadget.

[@turbinepower77]

MDF weighs 90 lbs. per sheet. I use MDF for my bench tops with white laminate glued to it with contact adhesive just like a counter top which I have made many of. This gives a bright top that is super durable plus when it gets beat up it can be replaced using a heat gun.

[@FrugalFixerSpike]

I am covering mu MDF with 3/16 ABS Plastic. Did you seal your mdf? Considering doing both sides and edges, unheated shop mostly. Thanks, mine will be black tops.

[@user-nh4tm6hh4j]

Excellent video, super nice work station. I am a commercial painting contractor. The best finish will be a marine grade polyurethane finish. Impervious to water and extremely durable. That's what all the architects spec.

[@Trytec96]

The fact you have your dust collector inside your work bench,. is absolutely brilliant.

[@captainphil371]

My first view of a shop nation video. Excellent presentation by a clear-speaking, articulate, craftsman. Oh, and the content was spot on. I think I'll add an MDF top over my existing 3/4" plywood. I've been coveting some t-tracks, and this looks like the answer. Thank you.

[@andrewmcgillivray448]

I built my workbenches almost exactly like this, except instead of laminating MDF to a thin plywood base I attached hardboard to a thick plywood base with countersunk screws. I finished it with poplar edges as well. I like the hardboard because it holds up to a lot of abuse, but then when it finally does get trashed I can just pull it off and replace it. I think I got that idea from an old Norm Abram video or something like that. Great video, man. I really like what you've done with your shop. You've given me some great ideas to get my own shop cleaned up and organized!

[@davidkennedy2555]

I like hardboard for that also. I use it as an ultimately disposable top that can be easily replaced.

[@justinpack8292]

Thanks for another great video. Unfortunately the track you linked is "currently unavailable" 😥

[@andrewmcgillivray448]

@@davidkennedy2555 do you have a better way to fasten the hardboard to your benches? Screws work, not sure if they're needed though. I'd like to keep the tops smooth if I could.

[@duncanjames914]

You've got an awesome workbench design. For ultimate durability, I would add a Formica top and the T-tracks.

[@darinsmith9468]

I've used MDF to make custom moldings for years, and shellac is my big secret for sealing the cut surfaces to allow for a smooth paint job. I seal with 2 coats of shellac, sand, prime, sand again, and paint. Works beautifully.

[@matiasgoinheix366]

What alternative would you recommend for Shellac? Can't find any in my country. Thanks.

[@johne9341]

@@matiasgoinheix366 You can buy Shellac in powdered form and just mix in with alcohol. That is the preferred way most woodworkers purchase it here in the USA. Shellac is so light in powdered form shipping would be minimal.

[@matiasgoinheix366]

@@johne9341 That's a great tip, thank you, will give it a try.

[@DynamicRockers]

@@matiasgoinheix366 Shellac in spray is even cleaner

[@MrJKellerLewis]

I used that same t-track and I love the black! Make sure you have a screw at the end of each piece, if not with a little clamping pressure the track will bend upward at the end. I learned that the hard way!

[@darinsmith9468]

Nice project. MDF is bigger than 4x8' because it is sold by metric measures (~ 125cm x 250cm). It's actually helpful because you can cut off any damage on the edges, provided you have a large enough table to handle truing it up. Shellac smells like rum mainly because it is alcohol based. You can buy dry shellac flakes and dissolve into alcohol yourself--which allows you to customize the thickness. A lot of luthiers used it in the past (antique violins, for example) & some still do, though most have gone to lacquer. True shellac comes from secretions of an insect: the lac bug--native to India and Thailand. Shellac is definitely the way to go for MDF. Also good to know is that Zinser B-I-N Primer is basically a white-pigmented shellac. Great if you are going to paint over it. Very good to seal between practically any other finishes. And being alcohol based, shellac dries FAST.

[@bret_Lambky]

The fact that you finished the surface with shellac that will really help! In my opinion MDF has always been fragile around the edges. With the additional trim to protect the edges that is a win win. The T-track looks great. I can see a lot of versatility with that table!! 👍🏼👍🏼

[@jimwiskus8862]

Always like watching a wood machine shop. So perfect & precise. The Bullseye shellac is great. It also is great on drywall that the paper has peeled off. Mud right over it and no raising of the paper underneath. Try using a foam roller on a small piece of wood. See if it lays flat. Might still need to sand in between coats. I think I finally figured out why there are 1/4 & 1/2 router bits because of you Travis. 1/4 for small routers & 1:2 for larger models. Thanks!

[@barbarianatgate2000]

Regarding that shellac that went in your eye, that's going to need three coats, and you should lightly sand with 220 between each one.

[@rickywilson7240]

Ha, I wear my safety glasses when painting Shellac too for all the same reasons.

[@active4delta]

😂

[@V0YAG3R]

Derek Smalls After that, you should always use a router to smooth that eye surface 👁👌🏻

[@danielmccarthy5668]

@@rickywilson7240 why cut and paste another user’s comments in the same thread? Genuinely curious or is that a bot thing? @Ryan Henderson

[@maknifeandrods7701]

Love how you commentate your videos and I used MDF on my old garage shop for years. When my new house is done in a couple of months I was going to use something different for the top. But seeing you use MDF and Shellac with a good trim well that will be the way to go. Oh I had t-tracks in my bench and used it all the time. Even when I used the bench for reloading my shells.

[@johnmay3266]

Good job. I like MDF as a surface. Very flat. Very stable. And Shellac is the best topcoat.

[@reidsimonson]

In a way it is somewhat comforting that I am not the only guy who will in the most random manner with the most impossible odds get something in my eye. Its pretty much why when I leave the house or pretty much leave my bed, put on a pair of sunglasses or safety glasses.

[@BrianKothe]

I used MDF on my outfeed/assembly table and finished it with a 50/50 mix of mineral spirits and oil based poly. Don't use water based as it will cause the MDF to expand. By thinning the poly it allows the MDF to absorb it so it's not just sitting on top. I applied about 10 coats, as the first 5 or so coats soak in immediately. I waited maybe 30-60 minutes between coats then after maybe 5 coats I let it dry for 24/48 hours, however long it took to completely dry. I then sanded with 220, wiped it down with mineral spirits and applied a couple more coats. I repeated this process letting it dry completely after 2 or 3 coats. Once the MDF stopped absorbing the poly I stopped the process. It looks great and it will not absorb spills. Glue and paint clean off easily, even if dry. The only issue I have is that it's slick. I'm thinking of sanding the surface with 150 or so to scuff it up. I think enough poly was absorbed that even if I scuff the surface, liquids still won't be absorbed. Here's a photo after I completed it photos.app.goo.gl/3nTpjRRMXFTckyTw9.

[@OU81TWO]

Looks nice.

[@davidlowe5192]

After reading your post, I thought that’s a lot of work for just a McFadden top. But looking at the picture of the finished result shows the effort put in. I will certainly try your method on my workbench top.

[@BrianKothe]

@@davidlowe5192 It sounds like a lot of work but it's really not that much. I wiped on heavy even coats using a rag, a brush probably would have taken longer. Waiting for it to dry completely is what takes time and the sanding was quick with a ROS. I was very happy with the finished product, and I feel it's a fairly hard, durable, surface. I used the same process on a drill press table and when I build a miter station I will do the same.

[@apocsurvival916]

After a thousand videos of work benches, I am finally going to say something. Now that looks like a damn nice table!!!🎉

[@ZMAC441]

Mike Farmington shows using shellac but he thins it down for the first coat. He says he feels like because it’s thinner it penetrates the mdf more making the protective layer thicker. Haven’t tried it myself but seems to make sense.

[@Mollermester]

Actually, i did it a bit different. I had a ¾ Inch plywood top, where i mounted the t-tracks. And then i Cut the 1/2 inch mdf to fit between the tracks. The mdf was then screwed on to the plywood from the underneath, and not glued. In that Way I Can easily change any part of the mdf, that is ruined by cuts or paint or whatever.

[@jordannaegle5366]

That is a great idea. Does having the track sit that far below the surface cause you any problems?

[@mrklean0292]

I have seen up to 3 1/2" T-Bolts sold by Rockler. I wonder if that would help.

[@Mollermester]

@@jordannaegle5366 actually, the diffference between the mdf-surface and the t-Track-top is only ½ mm, so it is working very well

[@chadcleary7931]

@@Mollermester so you didn’t router the T-track into the plywood then. You screwed into the plywood and then put the mdf around the T-track? Is my thinking right?

[@Mollermester]

@@chadcleary7931 exactly 👍

[@suearmstrong3404]

It's a beautiful thing Travis!! I built my workbench with MDF and used polyurethane to seal it. It has stood the test of time for 12yrs now and if I had to do it again I would use MDF all over again!

[@mashclub]

Could you recommend polyurethane for sealing?

[@suearmstrong3404]

I used Minwax

[@dodgebard816]

Ok....did all the viewers, 9K+, of this video during ONLY 8 hours , buy out all the T-Track. Went to link and "Currently Unavailable" . Just doing your job. Keep up the great work. currently 10:02 PM 20-02-20

[@benhadlow5730]

I’m watching this mid 2021 and with the current global shortage and pricing of plywood, MDF is the best alternative. Work top looks great 👍🏻. I have a bag of blonde shellac flakes which will be just the ticket for finishing some MDF projects

[@Redk04]

I've been in restaurants that aren't as clean as your shop. Nice video and I love the workbench!

[@steveslagle8564]

Now I know why you needed to make the new one in Ohio. This thing weighs (half) a ton!!! I changed it up a bit since I have a small shop, and sunk my planer and router table into the top at 1 end and have my drawers under them. This table has opened up so much room, thank you for the inspiration

[@dongarner3793]

I've been using MDF as a work surface for years. Just finished a smaller roll-around work table. Will follow your lead and edge with butt joined poplar band. I laminated 3/4 MDF to 3/4 OSB because that's what I had on hand. Free is the best price!

[@kizermergenschroer5096]

Thanks so much. Downloaded the plans and just started on the workbench. I've tried building in the past and umm, let's just say it hasn't gone well. After watching some videos and looking into things, turned out the table saw wasn't at 90 degrees, my straightedge was bent, and a whole lot of other things I wasn't aware of. Now that I can cut square finally, decided to give this a try. Anyway, thank you for the detailed plans, they are soooo great!

[@hizzleman123]

I have all MDF surfaces. I use the Mike Farrington super-secret mixture 1:1 paint thinner and wipe on poly. thinning the poly lets it absorb into the MDF without swelling, then the poly hardens in there which if you ask me, strengthens the work surface. it also seals the surface so stains and spills have no effect. requires like 4-5 coats though. no big deal.

[@chrisfrancis1346]

Water or Oil based Poly?

[@davidedmond7806]

mdf is not bad they take a really good finish

[@wardperozuk2782]

I have used mdf on my out feed table for about 15 years. Finished it with shellac as well. Probably could sand it down now and redo the finish. Smells like rum, could put a whole new meaning to getting shellacked! Cheers buddy!

[@RobRobertson1000]

Great looking build. I used a 50/50 mix of poly/methylated spirits to seal my MDF. Works much better as it really soaks in and hardens the MDF surface.

[@douglarson1902]

What was the ratio of poly to methylated spirits you used? And did you sand in between coatings?

[@RobRobertson1000]

@@douglarson1902 I used a 50/50 mix. Even used Shellite and that worked the same in place of metho. Yes, I just sanded lightly with 240 between coats (very light) just to get rid of nibs. The top is now about 6 years old and due for a re-coat. I'll be interested to see how it stands up to sanding it down and re-applying. The surprising thing about this coating is not just how easy it is but how hard it makes the MDF.

[@Fochopz]

I used laminate countertop veneer (rubber cement bond) on mine, no glue sticks things slide nice and wipe up easy. Adds a touch of height as well so the T track is recessed. Nice work!

[@kidcurry1957]

Thanks! Smaller project but doing the same thing with a table saw extension wing/router lift insert. Went with birch plywood at first and decided to go with mdf. Going to use 3 coats of shellac with sanding in-between each. Awesome shop man! Kevin

[@danturner9271]

Getting back into wood working after a 20+ year hiatus. Really enjoy your content and style. I am in the middle of the workshop table build, slightly modified for a table saw integration. I am planning on attempting the ultimate cabinet build after I make my mistakes on other projects. Looking forward to future content. Thanks for the tips and tricks of the trade!

[@luminousfractal420]

I'm working on the ultimate no $$$ drill press table. It's a cheap x/y manual table with a drill press mdf table on top. Table has some t-track but spaced far apart, hoping to add some closer to the center and have a 4 bolt/slide mount on some cross rails with clamps. Using spray shellac 🙏

[@johnmay3266]

I like MDF as a work surface and for drawer fronts. And Shellac is the only finish to use.

[@moonman805]

I think the top looks very nice.

[@gutz55787]

As far as finishes on MDF worksurfaces, I've had great success with paste wax. I made a flip-top outfeed table, as well as my main bench, both just paste wax, held up great over the last few years so far.

[@ShopNation]

Great, thanks for sharing. Have you needed to add more over time?

[@gutz55787]

@@ShopNation I haven't yet, it is maybe a little worn in places (I'm prone to putting my random orbit sander down while it's still spinning down), but it's held up great. Also handles spills and glue very well, better than the shellac I've used on some tool handles does, but that's purely anecdotal. ps: you can always add it over the shellac, if you want to give it a shot!

[@theElderberryFarmer]

@@gutz55787 I used paste wax on my MDF benchtop, but with less than stellar results. Beaded-up water is easy to spot and soak up with a rag without incident - but if something damp is left sitting on my bench for too long, the moisture works it way into the MDF and causes swelling. After accumulating a few swells, I pull out the belt sander and smooth things out again. I think the next time I sand the surface flat I'm going to give shellac a try.

[@gutz55787]

@@theElderberryFarmer ah, fair enough. I'm pretty religious about getting damp things out of the shop, no climate control so it's a must. Simply haven't run into it yet, but I can see what you mean. Wax can also go over anything, so shellac with a topcoat of wax might be a good match, but *shrug*

[@RobDucharme]

Good timing, stumbling upon this vid... I'm getting a garage built as we speak and when the epoxy on the floor is dry, one of the first things I'm building is a multipurpose pullout table for the table saw.

[@mattmetzger3240]

I’d like to hear how it holds up long term with the shellac. Now I have a series to catch up on lol. I am putting in mdf as a countertop in my bar currently and using epoxy for the “sealant.”

[@pteddie6965]

Nice workbench set up. Thanks for the video. Stay safe.

[@mrstevenjake22]

I just discovered your channel yesterday, and I've been watching your videos nonstop. Your content is top-notch. I have subscribed!

[@donparr5359]

Try Min-Wax Poly for hardwood floors (solvent based), Impervious to water, moisture, wont leave a water ring, glue pops off pretty easy. Very hard surface when dry- 2-3 coats/400 grit sand. Wax on- Wax off for a slip'n slide surface. Scratches touch up easy. Satin finish. Recommend spraying it on. Great product

[@goldendogwoodworks6675]

When I built my assembly table I used a 1/2 inch and a 3/4 inch mdf panel. Added dog holes and track. To seal it I used a wipe on matte poly.

[@fredweaver8194]

Quality video as usual. I’m considering using the same concept but putting 1/2”mdf over 3/4” ply and screwing the t-track directly to the plywood and fitting the mdf around the track. Opinions?

[@handy-remodeler]

In process of resurfacing my work bench too. Very helpful 👌 thanks man. Should have a video up in the near future on that. Stay Blessed 🙌

[@foxhallww311]

MDF is a better choice in my opinion. It's dense, it's cheap, and it's durable. Did I mention it's cheap too? Shellac is a good choice for seal. But I am going to use Tongue Oil and Paste Wax. My uncle has workbenches that are 50+ years old and they are all sealed with tongue oil. Nice work Travis! Love your channel. I draw a lot of inspiration for your videos for my channel. Did I mention that MDF is super cheap too?

[@rogermccaslin6750]

I like melamine for a work surface. It has a fairly hard plastic finish on both sides and hardly anything will stick to it. When it gets too beat up, flip it over for a brand new surface. When both sides are done in, it's easy to replace, both in terms of time and money (less than $30/sheet). Remove the old one. Pop on the new one. Done.

[@anthonyboudreaux3675]

My choice also.

[@scottlillynz]

That's a flippin' great idea!

[@pipwerks]

I made a similar work surface a few years ago, and coated it with a thin coat of watered-down Titebond. (I read about it in a forum someplace.) It was super cheap and easy, no fumes, and has held up pretty well. Use the water-resistant Titebond or else you'll get water rings wherever you set a cup down. If I were to make my workbench over again, I'd probably try the shellac or a water-based poly (or both) instead of Titebond. I've also made a bench with melamine-topped particle board and it has not held up well at all. It's hard to work with, brittle, and generally a pain. If I were going to use a non-MDF topper, I'd probably use hardboard.

[@drewmiles829]

Your the next big wood working youtuber my friend keep doing what your doing!

[@DAS-Machina]

I highly recommend getting a non-ferris metal blade for your mitre saw. You can then skip all of the intersection kits and have a much cleaner track. (and you could avoid the little bird's mouths in the top of the t-intersections)

[@davidburson6406]

I'm not getting what you're saying Daniel- getting ready to lay down track on my table, so HOW can I get rid of the intersection kits exactly?

[@DAS-Machina]

@@davidburson6406 With The correct blade you can cut t-track on your miter saw. and with mitered corners you can make any intersection

[@bretthollenbeck812]

Bench looks great, as does all the stuff you make. Just curious, it’s been 2 yrs since you made the new tops with MDF and shellac and I was wondering how it is holding up. Thanks

[@spenzo144]

Nice video! A couple questions for ya. 1) was there any splotchiness with the finish? 2) how did you decide on the T track configuration? 3) did you have any issues after you got the shellac in your eye? ouch. good reminder to more or less just keep your safety glasses on! great vid, cheers man. hope to have a shop like that one day.

[@rjtumble]

I just finished section 1 of this build (doing the dust collection next). I also put t-track in mine, though I have three strips running down the "long" way instead of just two. I also only put it in half of the table. Not knowing any better, I covered my MDF top with some extra johnsons paste wax I had in the garage. It worked out really well, but it used up a BUNCH of it.

[@ShopNation]

Sounds like a great build! Would love to see it

[@btwac07]

Nice Job...just to mention. Norm Abrams made a workbench using hardboard as a top-layer so it can be replaced later if needed.

[@jeffreywilliams1149]

Reading some comments, Ppl way to picky , everyone evolves, great job . Fan of you tube. 🤘right on . Keep it up.

[@johnslaughter5475]

One of the nicer things about MDF is that it is 97" x 49". This allows for more pieces out of a sheet because the extra inch on each dimension allows for kerf loss.

[@ShopNation]

Very true

[@MrDonnzy]

the more i see ,the more i learn. thank you!

[@charlesdabb1821]

Clear style has 2 and 3 ft. kits that come with 2 sections of track plus the intersection. 4 ft. lengths of track without the intersection and just the intersection itself. They also have hold downs that are nicely machined and heavy duty all at prices cheaper than anybody else. I made my workbench using a sheet of 3/4" plywood topped with a sheet of 3/4" MDF. I am also adding T-track along with some dog holes. Thanks to this video I will also be putting on a couple of coats of shellac.

[@akbychoice]

Assembly table looks good. Just an FYI There is a T-track available that is notched every so often to allow adding hold-downs midway on the track.

[@ShopNation]

Is it red? I think I’ve seen that. Sounds like a great idea

[@akbychoice]

Shop Nation yes the one I saw was red

[@romanjohnston]

Just built a bench. Next weekend is Dog Holes and I too resolved to use Shellac for the finish. Same brand and everything. Interseting factoid. Shellac is made from the secretions from the Lac bug. Go look it up. I just wonder how they milk those little bugs!

[@BrandonKoruna]

I don't have engineer like precision, maybe thats why its fun to watch your videos

[@jameshodgins1937]

I have been using polyurethane to protect my shop tools and work benches for years. You can sand it down every few years (15 for my table saw extension) and refinish it. The shellac tops look nice and I am sure will last you for years to come.

[@heystarfish100]

Bringing home sheet stock on the roof of the Audi is sure sign of you being hardcore Travis. 💪😎🤣

[@geographyinaction7814]

'Bubbles' shout-out...NICE!!!!

[@dafud77]

awesome vid, i have used MDF as work surfaces for a couple years now. I use poly instead of shellac, but shellac should be just fine. Also, i used 400grit between coats. All i ever noticed was a raised scale after the first coat. After 3 or 4 coats, the benchtop was pretty much rock hard. Keep up the awesome vids, love watching and appreciating the hard work that i know goes into them.

[@akbychoice]

David Tindall how is stray glue adhesion to the poly?

[@dafud77]

@@akbychoice , flakes off :)

[@ADBBuild]

Looks great! I want to do similar with my bench, but I think I'm going to go MDF with a piece of 1/4 tempered hard board on top. I might stick a piece of plywood underneath too though as I like the idea of the extra support. A friend of mine who is a car audio installer uses thinned down waterproof wood glue (Titebond 3 I think?) for waterproofing on MDF subwoofer boxes. He tested it on a piece by leaving it out in the rain for months with no damage to the MDF. Also, a carbide router bit will go through that aluminum T-track very easily if you wanted to chamfer the ends to match the chamfer on the corners of the top.

[@ShopNation]

Great tips thanks!

[@marcelmori8219]

Matching chamfers om the top and T-track. That’s kinda OCDish...

[@christopherstudley9374]

Practical. intelligent. Inexpensive. Impressive. Thank you.

[@adanminaya2726]

I will for sure buy these plans... Not sure if this has been mentioned in the comments but a router lift incorporated in this mobile workbench would have been amazing... I will try incorporate a router lift in my version of this

[@tano1747]

Shellac will be marked if you spill water on it. Or alcohol. It is what's used for French polished furniture (where you apply 10 to 20 coats, utilising the super fast drying time to good effect). Which looks good but isn't as durable as as polyurethane varnish. So you've essentially (roughly) French polished your mdf workbench. Interesting choice ... ...

[@jasonsmithroofing]

Awesome build. I made a similar top for my 8’ bench as well. I used 1 3/16 ultralight MDF as a base to give it as flat a surface as possible, then added an unglued replaceable 3/4 ultralight top (should’ve used regular MDF since it’s much stronger, lesson learned). I added t-track on the same half as yours using Powertec’s track. Another good option that’s inexpensive and blue (little bit darker than Rockler’s). Also going to add track along the edge banding for vertical clamping. One mistake I made was painting the surface in semigloss white. 🤨 easily chips and looks awful after a few uses. I’ll be using shellac next time. Thanks for the video!

[@1boltmeadow]

Really nice job. Currently looking for ideas - looking to build a workbench to incorporate router, mitre saw, table saw, sanding disk (300mm dia)all with T-track & slides for 19mm sleds all with an adjustable fence & copious underneath storage. Looking at 7 ft 6 ins long by 650mm wide, on locking castors, with a folding leaf of approx another 500 mm wide (also with tracks in it) so when folded up will fully support a 4 ft wide sheet Was really interested in your views about using & sealing MDF - thanks for posting

[@TwoJeremysWoodworking]

Just further inspiration for my own workbench great work Travis

[@shouse94]

Nice blue cabinets by the door.

[@markkuneman7820]

The new top does look amazing. But really I was thinking about during this entire video was the original video series of making this table. It’s super cool to see it being updated after all this time.

[@kgucmen]

Such a good timing, to come across this video.... Thanks

[@robgiddy4626]

Have a used MDF, shellac finished on my assembly table and outfeed table for ten years...holds up well

[@stuartellington5215]

Does dried glue come up easy?

[@robgiddy4626]

@@stuartellington5215 I actually buff it with butchers wax once a year...keeps most everything from sticking !

[@naeemsafdar1983]

Damn I wish that was my work shop 😂 really great job done. Can’t wait to watch all the other videos, how the garage came to be

[@danielheyboer]

I’m so glad I found this video thank you for making it. I’m building my first wood working work bench in my basement. 8x4 and 3 layer 3/4” MDF top with a 3/4” layer of particle board at the bottom of the MDF and 4x4 legs and heavy duty locking caster wheels. Today I ordered the Eclipse 9” quick release vise for using bench dogs. I’ve been wondering about the T-tracks and what’s the best way to seal the MDF. I haven’t done any wood working since high school more than 30 years ago but now that I have a house with a big basement my work shop is becoming a reality. Awesome video and you’ve given me some inspiration thanks.

[@dezfan]

Turned out fantastic. I’m in the planning stages of my new shop and I think I’m going to incorporate this budget T track system. I’ve used a roll on Urethane product to seal MDF, but Shellac is much more affordable and that’s a good thing for sure! 👍🏼

[@Wegl79]

Personally, I am currently building out my garage shop, and I did a lot of research on the work surfaces. I ultimately settled on using 1/8” High Density Fiberboard laminated to 3/4” Sandply plywood. When coated with polyurethane and a final paste wax coat, you cannot find a much better attractive work surface.

[@DukesDecor]

Nice work. I used MDF on my outfeed and miter station also, however with one difference. I put a layer of Masonite (hardboard) on top of my MDF then edgebanded with red oak and sealed it all with shellac. The Masonite is a lot tougher than the mdf as a worksurface AND it’s super cheap to replace once I beat it up. I change them out usually once per year. Keeps the worktop super flat and smooth for a great price.

[@ShopNation]

Nice!

[@tybottoms4720]

I did the exact same with my 4x8 outfeed table, except 2 sheets of MDF. I've had a hard time with my hardboard cupping up. I put a little glue down on the problem areas to keep it flat, but that defeats the purpose of a replaceable top. I came in the shop one day and one corner of the hardboard was cupped almost a foot.

[@DukesDecor]

@@tybottoms4720 Are you using the type with a rough side and a smooth, or the type with 2 smooth sides? I use the kind with 2 smooth sides. I cut it out for the dimensions of my table top and I use Super 77 spray adhesive very lightly on the bottom of the hardboard, just enough to make it tacky. I let it air dry a few minutes then I place the tacky side down onto the mdf substrate of the bench. I then secure it in place with course thread drywall screws around the edges and a few in the center. HERE IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART....I predrill countersink the hardboard before driving the screws. I think drive them 75% of the way with my cordless but I FINISH BY HAND so I don't split the hardboard. Please take it from me, you WILL split the hardboard if you try to use the driver haha. The screws always sit nicely down in the countersinks out of the way. The adhesive just keeps it all lined up and adhered lightly. When I replace I can usually break it free with light pressure from a putty knife. Hope this helps!!

[@tybottoms4720]

@@DukesDecor It's smooth on both sides. I'll try the drywall screws in the center where I didn't add glue. Thanks!

[@toddsmash]

Wow! So clean under the bench top when you removed it! That dust collection looks to be doing a great job!

[@frontlinefinishcarpentry4193]

Casual lurker..... now a subscriber. Keep up the good work.

[@Richard-wk9le]

I did the same finish on MDF 17 yrs ago and I can report that it works great, almost everything cleans up completely, if you wax it once in a while nothing will sick to it, with all that being said there is a better finish but its more expensive- Total Boats brand Penetrating epoxy its a 2 Part epoxy that about as thin Pan cake syrup and really soaks in but can also be thinned even more with according to the label , Acetone, lacquer thinner or I think it said paint thinner which would make it soap in that much more. Two coats will be enough $45.00 Qt at Amazon.

[@EmJayCD]

Man this is awesome... I literally went to HD today to buy material for my big workbench/outfeed table. I was going to buy a sheet of 3/4 birch but then I saw MDF was cheaper so I went with it instead... thanks for the info cu, I had no idea how I was gonna seal it... #Subscribed lol

[@jayt838]

Wow I just watched a guy paint a work bench. Nice shop and Audi.

[@randywhite7228]

I absolutely love your channel! Love your instruction and your humor... hope you meant to be funny... LOL. I have always wondered about the T track and why you did not do them when you built the table, so I am glad to see you add it. Also, what are your thoughts on holes for bench dogs and the like? The only negative thing I have to say... I want more! I know you have a real job, but I am just enjoying your stuff so much I could watch it every day! Keep up the Great work!!!

[@ShopNation]

Thanks Randy! Bench dog holes are great but wouldn’t work as well on my table since all of the sawdust would get inside

[@randywhite7228]

@@ShopNation Of Course... duh... Well... In any case, Love the table and cabinets. I will be doing the same in my small shop.

[@jeffforbes3772]

Rock on my friend! Please let us know how that new T Track works out.

[@benjaminhdavies]

Great video - enjoyed it. If I could add one comment - dust mask; MDF isn't healthy to breathe. Cheers!!

[@pbk380]

Looks Great, Lacquer works very well also.

[@anthonyboudreaux3675]

Shellac doesn't spread that we'll straight from the can tends to gum up. Thin it with denatured alcohol spreads much better and if possible spray it. My favorite finish on any wood furniture. I would recommend putting a couple coats of paste wax will really help with spills. Looks really nice though enjoyed your video.

[@anthonyboudreaux3675]

Failed to mention that shellac you used is about a 3 pound cut I'd add at least 1 to 1 with the denatured alcohol.

[@SandBoxJohn]

I would have dispensed with the plywood and gone with a 1 1/4" MDF. Fabricated many a custom cabinet on a 1 1/4" X 5' X 9' bench top. Finished a 1" MDF metal lathe bench with 4" high splashes on 3 sides I built with Danish Oil, sealed reasonably well but got kind of dirty after a few years.

[@mikeharvey6061]

Very good video. Wanting to go back on some of my tops and add t-track to them. Good info.

[@tone7021]

It gives the table tops a classy look. Definitely a nice change.

[@robgiddy4626]

I’ve used an mdf top on my assembly table for 10 yrs, sealed with shellac. Still dead flat and barely worn.