You're doing it wrong - MDF Workbench / Benchtop finish - Part 1 - Oil or water-based?

What do you think is the best finish for a workbench? I was genuinely surprised by the result, so much so that I will be changing my choice in the future.
I hope that this helps some of you out there, please let me know below what you think to the video, the results and any feedback you may have!
Thanks and have an awesome day!
The initial build of my plywood and MDF workbench - • 6' x 4' workbench from...
Why choose MDF as a workbench top? - www.youtube.co....
Social Accounts -
Facebook - / thenaturalworkshop
Instagram - / thenaturalworkshop
Amazon Links -
These are some of the most used items that I use daily in the workshop. They would make the perfect gift for the woodworker in your life! Please note that as an Amazon Affiliate, if you buy something through our “links” we may get a small share of the sale. No one has asked or paid me for these recommendations.
Nexus Hexagonal HB Basswood Pencils (Box of 144) amzn.to/3jc7FNY
BIC Matic Fun 0.7mm Mechanical Pencils - Assorted Colours, Box of 12,Yellow,Blue,Green,White amzn.to/3FBSCEQ
WOWOSS 4 pcs Titanium Coated Countersink Chamfer Drill Bits Deburring Tool amzn.to/3BFqeR9
Countersink Drill Bit Set, 5Pcs Quick Change 1/4" Hex Shank Adjustable Countersink Set amzn.to/3v1wH50
ZOJI 9PCS 5-13mm Imperial Socket Nut Impact Driver Adapter Drill Bits 1/4 Inch Hex Shank Tool Set Nut Driver Socket Bit Se amzn.to/3Wuyzzc
OX Pro Torpedo Level 9" / 230mm - NOT PRIME amzn.to/3V74Nzg
OX Trade Torpedo Level 230mm - PRIME amzn.to/3Wa4lBu
HPMAISON Forstner Drill Bit, 19PCS Tungsten Steel Boring Hole Saw Set, 10mm - 40mm Forstner Drill amzn.to/3BO1UMT
IRWIN Marples Forstner Bit Set, Wood Drilling, 8 Piece (1966892) amzn.to/3Wtzy2i
Stanley STA998985 Pocket Tapes, 5m/16ft & 8m/26ft amzn.to/3hyLGjQ
T Type Wood Measure Ruler, Square Ruler Aluminum Alloy Precision Woodworking Scriber Carpentry Marking Tool T-260 amzn.to/3PB7Dv8
Mini Engineers Square Center Finder Tool 90 degree precision machinist square amzn.to/3v2IGj0

[@RYwoodview]

I added a thick butcher block top to my workbench with new maple wood vises, finished with several coats of Watco Danish Oil (the brand most common in the U.S.). It's perfect for me. Repels water long enough to wipe up, fresh PVA glue wipes right off. I'm careful, cover it for painting or staining. Occasional rubbed areas revive beautifully with a wipe over again with the oil. I understand the practicality of an MDF top. I used a replaceable hardboard (Masonite) for a long time. But finally decided I wanted more beauty in my workshop and I vastly enjoy the environment there with more beautiful wood around. Thanks so much for your videos!

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

No problem man and thanks for watching! Yeah, I would love a butcher block top to be honest but I know it would get trashed way too quickly lol. We are all about saving time in the shop so things have a tendency to get screwed to the workbenches for ease lol. Good to hear about the Danish. I'm really pleased with how these turned out and definitely think it's the way forward. Have a great day man 👍🏼

[@jsmxwll]

For a lot of the marine varnishes I've used, it takes a while for them to fully cure. When they have, they are far more resistant to solvents than they are before they cure. They really need enough heat and time.

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Yeah I think thats a fair comment. Im going to redo the video with some other variables and give all of the finishes enough time to cure. Originally my thinking was that for me, Ill finish a bench one day and be working on it the next but I think the majority will finish the bench and then it might be another week or two before they are back working so it would be good to get it redone.

[@G.I.JeffsWorkbench]

I treat all of my workbenches & portable work items (jigs, sleds, etc.) w/ either a hard wax oil or boiled linseed oil. What I like about these products is the ability to easily touch up or refresh areas that need it. All tools w/ wooden handles get the same treatment, favoring boiled linseed oil over other products. It’s amazing how effective yet inexpensive this method is. There’s a reason why boiled linseed oil is “old school” - it’s cheap & effective.

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Yes 100% I tend to use Danish oil a lot more than others as it runs along the same lines. It's cheap, easy to apply and easy to reapply.

[@luisbrazilva]

Glad to see this test! I've never treated MDF for finishes before and I'm building a bench with an MDF top now. I've always used Danish on all my benches and I'm glad to see it's the winner on this test cause I keep that in stock! I'm interested in seeing a test with Danish Oil for penetrating sealing for all stains, water, etc. And then a layer of varnish for that sleek surface feel to make it resistant to glue and paint or any sticky situation

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Thats not a bad idea actually, might have to give that one a go. I wonder how well the varnish will stand up to the test of time and how easy it is to refinish if it starts to peel 🤔 I guess at that point you have had years of use out of it and could just sand back and refinish!

[@FrugalFixerSpike]

I used shellac, on mine, so far very happy with it.

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Thanks for the comment. Thats awesome to hear, out of interest, is Shellac expensive where you are? It runs pretty expensive here. Whats your top made from?

[@larryrichter6337]

I would love to see these samples have wood glue put on and see how well it comes off each sample too. Great Video!

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Thank you! Its on the list, once everything calms down with work and home Ive got a whole video planned on it 😁

[@davidorr6627]

Nice test. I'm building a workbench soon, with an MDF top (thanks to your other video). I've just started using Danish oil (did a beautiful job on an acacia knife block), so I'm really happy to see that it worked so well on the MDF.

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Great stuff, glad you enjoyed the other video and this one! I guess its one of those things that gets overlooked for the "newer" more advanced finishes but sometimes the old ones are the best ones!

[@johnjensen5540]

Loved the comparison! I would have liked to see shellac tested as well. Still great vid, thanks!

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Apologies as Ive been ridiculously busy at work and KZbin had to take a back seat. Thanks for the comment and glad you enjoyed the content. I think it might have done really well but its very expensive and it might bankrupt me to do an 8 x 4 worktop lol.

[@bobmeeks96]

Very useful video as was the one on why to use MDF. I plan to start a new workbench this weekend and wasn’t even considering MDF. Now, I’m definitely going to us MDF with Danish Oil. Thanks.

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

No problem Bob and thanks. It always seems to be shunned but its a great material, just needs to be used in the right way. Have you checked out the follow ups I made 're the finishes? Be sure to let us know how it turns out 👍🏼

[@dizzybee7386]

Yacht varnish is tough, but brittle. It flakes in my experience, needing repeated coats. If you're using an MDF top which is going to take a lot of scratches, then the only protection to worry about is stain, which is purely aesthetic. I think the Danish Oil turns out top. It doesn't do any harm to add a wax finish over it, but might as well pay for a tougher wood/board if going down that route.

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Hey, thanks for view & comment, apologies its taken so long for me to get back to you! I totally agree, Ive since changed all of my benches to MDF and Danish oil tops and it was by far the best thing for me to do. Well worth the time of oiling it.

[@reaper060670]

I was surprised that u didn't bring Shellac into the mix with all of these. I've heard ppl say it's really good for workbench Tops made from MDF are sealed really well with layers of Shellac. The Yacth Varnish, The Danish Oil and the Treatex did really well for me. I think the more coats of these finishes would make a huge difference. I have a bottle of Danish Oil in my shop atm but it's Dark Oak and I don't really want to put it onto my workbench..

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

How did you get on, did you use the Danish? My main benches were given 2 coats of danish when we redid the workshop and its worked out well but youre right, I think it needed more coats as it needs a recoat now. Not the end of the world though and worst case, its just MDF! Thanks for taking the time to comment and thanks for watching. Have a great day man 🤙

[@ShankarHurst]

Brilliant that, just what I needed to know. Cheers for going to all that trouble. Great information.

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Thanks for the feedback Paul. Really glad it helped you out!

[@GARDENER42]

I've been using Danish oil on wooden kitchen worktops for 30 years. IF applied correctly, it's totally waterproof under everyday conditions & resistant to everything except iron staining (wet surface plus tin can = stain). I'm building a woodworking bench using 3x25mm thicknesses of MDF & will treat all surfaces with multiple coats of Danish oil, as it'll be in an unheated workshop & thus exposed to moisture.

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Hey, apologies for the poor comms, last month was a real difficult one with work and sickness! How have you got on with the workbench? I bet that top weighs a ton doesnt it lol. The double 18mm is enough of a pain to move lol. Let me know how you get on 👍🏼Happy New Year!

[@GARDENER42]

@@TheNaturalWorkshop I've gathered all the materials & fittings needed & cut a load of 18mm ply to width for making the frame (I'm using the Rob Cosman plans) but Christmas intervened. Need to make a crosscut sled for the table saw next, so I can cut everything to length.

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Getting there then. Yeah, we had lots of plans but things got in the way, all things in good time though I suppose! What video do you use for squaring up the sled? My favourite, if not a little involved, is one by William NG. Two seconds and Ill find the link... kzbin.info/www/bejne/i5OqXqFjYrF5nbMsi=LGiZ1zjNjIIshMXs

[@GARDENER42]

@@TheNaturalWorkshop Aye, that's the one I saw. Seemed kind of complex until I got my head round the maths.`I'll have to watch it again.

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

I tend to set up on the phone and take it one step at a time as it is a little involved but it is a great video!

[@creepycrawlything]

Teak Oil as a first coating to get absorption. Danish Oil over the top of that, as a robust non-brittle wear coat that is easy to touch up.

[@darrenedwards9034]

Thanks Colin - will try that ! Top man!

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Great idea Colin, I will try and give that a go, see how it turns out! 👍

[@David-hm9ic]

Just based on having boats with generous amounts of teak on them, teak oil is best suited for keeping the levels of oil high in teak. For the highest level of penetration with any oil based finish it’s hard to beat adding Penetrol. I’ve used it up to 50% for a first coat of teak oil and with spar varnish as well.

[@creepycrawlything]

@@David-hm9ic. Thank you for that information. Not a material I had knowledge of. Interesting. www.flood.com/products/paint-additives/penetrol-oil-based-paint-additive

[@Maurice510]

Thank you for going through all of this trouble, this is very useful information. I am here in the states, bay area CA, and I recently purchased colored mdf from a place called Trinity Innovations, near Sacramento, and they suggested that I use danish oil as well..and these guys manufacture colored MDF. They also spray lacquer but , for home shop application said danish oil....so your results echo their recommendation.

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Hey, thanks for your feedback and for the information, its very much appreciated. Good to hear that I am on par with the manufacturers! I've just check their website out. That's very cool, you could make some really cool products with coloured MDF. I've heard of Valchromat before (people talking on forums) but only ever black so that's really cool. Every day is a school day. Thanks again!

[@michaell8835]

Thank you for the info Maurice, and to @thenaturalworkshop too of course for the very in depth video. I'm soon to finish a Black MDF Valchromat MFT worktop, and was researching for the best finishes (hence watching this video). Was fascinating to see the results! I've done a few test pieces already, but must admit I hadn't considered Danish oil, I've got in stock so will do a test piece .... looks perfect for me though. So, a big thank you.

[@levinlow]

Well this video made my mind up on what to use.So helpful thank you

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Thanks for the comment, no problem! Glad I could help. Come back and let us know how you got on!

[@davidorr6627]

I guess the only issue with the test is that if you did spill a lot of stain on your benchtop, you'd probably wipe it up ASAP, so the effect of the solvents on some of the finishes wouldn't be as bad.

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Yeah I totally agree. There is always the risk that you miss something so I wanted to see what the worst case scenario was but you are right, we would normally wipe anything straight up. Im going to do another video using the same blocks and see how they hold up after some "real world" use, should be good!

[@BirdDogPresents]

Great info man! As a new maker this was super helpful. Thanks for helping me along my journey.

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Anytime man, glad it helped 🙏🏼

[@keithstruble6143]

Thank you for the video. Well done and of much help. What about Tung Oil. I've used that on my MDF tops and it works. It definitely produces the darkest finish. I just like that look against the light Oak trim I used.

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

No problem at all! I put Tung oil in the same sort of Bracket as Danish oil personally, should work just fine!

[@darrellcurr8977]

I used Tung Oil on my MDF projects!

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Thanks for the comment Darrell. How do you get on with it? Does it hold up well?

[@darrellcurr8977]

@@TheNaturalWorkshop Yes it seems to but I and another coat after 6 months or so!

[@garrysmythe]

Great little video mate, think I'll give the Danish oil a try, easy to put on too uh , thanks for posting from Garry in Barnsley UK

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Thanks Garry, hope its helped you out and you get on well with it 👍🏼

[@joemehere1151]

Great video! Danish oil it is! Thanks

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

No worries, thank you for the comment. Let us know how it works out for you 👍🏼

[@philipb867]

I found it depends on the make of danish oil too as the mix varies from brand to brand.

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

👍🏼Always check with the suppliers/manufacturers as they will know best.

[@PokeCardKids]

Well done sir.

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Thank you John!

[@GlenDomulevicz]

Thank You. Very helpful.

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

No problem. Happy New Year!

[@audiobrew]

Quite helpful video :)

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

No problem, thank you for watching!

[@davidpeters8813]

For the oil based poly, if it was that cold, it did not fully cure, so I would say it's not a completely fair test. I would bet that if it's fully cured and you wipe the stain off right away (as you would do with an accidental spill) you will get a better result. All great info in the video though, thanks!

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Thanks for the feedback David. I think thats a fair comment and I am also thinking that the can I used may have been sat on the shelf for a while. Next text I do Ill make sure to use a new can, allow it to cure correctly for a few days and see how it holds up. Thanks again!

[@David-hm9ic]

@@TheNaturalWorkshop Looking forward to the follow up. My thoughts echo David’s. Oil based poly is pretty tough once cured.

[@ssmith954]

very helpful, thanks!

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

No Problems. Glad I could help! 👍

[@vek0vek0]

I think the boiled linseed oil needs a lot more time to cure properly and then the results might have been different. Maybe leave a piece for a month and test again.

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Yeah thats a fair shout, I might give that a go. Thanks for the suggestion!

[@ChattanoogaDan]

You should look into tung oil

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Thank you, Ill give it a go on my next round of test!

[@fredio54]

Wishing I had some danish oil on the shelf right now. Put me off using BLO though, so that's good. Cheers.

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

No problem, make sure to grab some the next time you get out as its great in terms of a finish 👍 . Glad its helped, thanks for the comment! Have a great day!

[@fredio54]

@@TheNaturalWorkshop What I ended up doing out of sheer impatience and work-work procrastination was mixing up builder's epoxy and smearing it on thick, leaving to soak in, then scraping off the filler material left behind. Not suitable for large areas unless you use actual epoxy, but about the best possible finish at the end of the day. Just the front tapered lip on a desk I bought. Will have to mix some more tomorrow to do the part I need to cut in case something is spilled over the join in future. Best go and scrape off all that filler material and wipe down to perfect smoothness. Thanks again for avoiding BLO though. :-) And inspiring a few test pieces before putting the epoxy on my actual desk parts. Just applying it was enough to tell me it was a winning move. I have a lot of experience with epoxy, just not much with this cheap builders pre-thickened stuff.

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Sound like you are sorted in the end, if it works then it works! Ive been using 2 part epoxy more and more on the canoes and its a great material. It does have its limitations and skill set but its a lot of fun to use! How is it now? Im interested to see if the workpiece slides around or it "sticks" to the bench top.

[@fredio54]

@@TheNaturalWorkshop It came out really really nice! There were a few places where my circular flap wheel had left a concave section and I failed to scrape the filler out of that part leaving a bit of height and texture, but I scuffed the whole lot with a cork block and 360 wet'n'dry (dry) and it felt good, then dusted the white dust out of the lows with compressed air, then waxed it all with Briwax, and it feels smooth enough (very smooth in most places) and I've started working on the steel to reinforce the extensions that I made from an extra wing that came with it for a hundred local kopeks. So instead of a crusty front tapered lip with a decade of office affairs and spilled coffee showing its age, it looks fresh and new. And instead of 1800x1800mm it's now 2200x2000mm with the 1/3 / 2/3 split of the extra 600 wing as extensions on each side. I've not cleared the old desk and other gear out yet and installed it as I'm still working on the steel to reinforce the top and keep it flat/straight even with loads on top. Next up is to put together a finger-jointed pine shelving set 300mm wide that will go across the back of the 2200 direction 1800 long and hold my monitor and YT camera gear, lenses, etc. The things you do while locked in the house by the government with a comprehensive set of tools and materials in stock :-D

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Haha sounds like you have had some fun, at least you made good use of the time! That thing sounds like a beast, what sort of loads are you going to have on top where it needs a steel frame?

[@darrellcurr8977]

But that was because that is all I had at the time!

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Only just saw this comment lol

[@Blackcreekstudios]

I would think the point of a bench is to grip your work. Does it make sense to create a slippery finish ? I just want a finish that protects the mdf and doesn’t let glue stick .

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Yes and no, if I need something to stay I'll clamp it down. That being said, I'm going to build a bench dog style workbench soon as we have changed work style and need to be able to clamp things down easier. I still think it will get a couple coats of danish to be fair. The bigger issue for me is getting a pot-marked surface which will then damage the timber when I'm sanding it so a good finish like danish oil solves most of the issues.

[@wh0tube]

Moral of the story: nothing works! Wrap it in glad wrap!

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

🤣 The Danish works great tbh, it is a workbench and not a table top after all!

[@nenadmandic7150]

Really great info this is for my new / planned workbench(es). I'm curious about Shellack; if you have used it and if so, where it would fit in this comparison?

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

No worries and thanks for the comment. You weren't the only one to ask about Shellac so I made a new video where I retested some of the original ones and added Shellac into the mix. Hope that helps 👍🏼 kzbin.info/www/bejne/qWWcY56EoLeYeaM

[@NickBarban]

Just found this vid. Very timely. Just about to build my very first bench with a ply and MDF topper. Suppose I’ll need to buy some danish oil too! 🤣😂. I don’t know if you’ve seen Rex Kruger’s video where he suggest Shellac. Is that similar to any of the products you tested here? Cheers. Excellent vid 👍

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Apologies, KZbin wasn't telling me I had comments for some reason. I haven't seen that video, which one is it? The one with the English Joiners Bench? Did you see this video " kzbin.info/www/bejne/qWWcY56EoLeYeaM " where I tested the Shellac? Might be worth a watch, I still fancy the Danish oil as a budget option and Treatex as a more high end option. The Danish oil just cant be beat for price, especially here in the UK where Shellac is very expensive!

[@NickBarban]

@@TheNaturalWorkshop hi. No worries. I’ve had a similar issue. It wasn’t Rex, it was shop Nation kzbin.info/www/bejne/bnaydKWEhdF9aM0. I’ll have a watch of the your shellac vid. I know I’ve got some finishes hidden under all the crap in my garage. Hopefully I’ll find some of them as I’m making space for my new bench 😂🤣. I’m based in Coulsdon, Surrey btw.

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Ah Awesome, Ill have to check out some of your videos! HaHa I know what you mean, we are taking a couple of days to clear out the workshop before Christmas otherwise it will be forever in a state lol.

[@chrisallen57]

The only problem I have with Danish oil is the potent long lasting smell

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

It can take a while to off gas that's for sure. A fan and patience will help...I have one of those lol

[@cellularmitosis2]

Great video! Time to invest in a lavalier mic and take things to the next level

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Thanks man and Im looking 😁

[@darrenedwards9034]

Fab video and experiment. I own two furniture making businessess and recently started making birch ply furniture. I'm struggling to find a finish that doesn't take ages to dry and look 'patchy'. I especially find the edges are very patchy. Treatex seems to come out best, but not great and still patchy. Just wondering if you had any other suggestions?

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Thanks for the feedback! What timber are you applying it onto? The only issue Ive had in the past where it has become patchy has been when the timber had a damp spot or there was some other issue which was stopping the finish from soaking in. It can become more of an issue with the end grain as it has a tendency to soak in deeper. You could always give Richard or one of the Tech guys a shout at Treatex, they have always been extremely helpful whenever I needed advice on a project. If not, let me know what the timber is and we can see what we can do!

[@shawnstuart1029]

@@TheNaturalWorkshop I have made many bb cabinets and I find a few coats of brush or spray lacquer to give a great finish. Dry's fast so you can re apply within minutes. Give a go over with 0000 steel wool and the finish is smooth and the color is very natural looking. Also easy to repair and decent protection.

[@Renrondog]

If it's blotchy , spray on a LIGHT coat or 2 of DeWaxed Shellac. Has to be DeWaxed. aka : SealCoat. Then top coat with any finish you prefer. No blotching.

[@nudger44]

Hi josh. Do you recommend finishing oil for WR mdf that’s what I used to make work top. Now need to find best sealant for the WR tks

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Hope the reply in the other comment helped 😁

[@SuperMrObserver]

what s the resulting finish after applying all those products? which became slippery and which stayed close to original mdf? a workbench is used for clamping also, so you don t want the surface to be slippery. cool video, thanks

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Glad you enjoyed the video. That's a great question actually, Ill check later today and let you know! 👍

[@PropPlanePat]

Thanks for this really helpful for the workbench I'm in the middle of building. I've seen a number of videos, admittedly US content, suggesting Shellac. Is this not a product that made your list?

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Apologies for the late reply Pat, work has been super busy this week! Its funny you should ask that, it was supposed to be on the original video but I forgot lol. Its supposed to be a great option so Im going to include it on a revisit video next week hopefully 👍🏼

[@PropPlanePat]

@@TheNaturalWorkshop No problem its very kind of you to reply at all. Ill be really interested to see the outcome as I have a pretty large bench im building that will need finishing and Id like to make sure i get it right first time 🤣

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Totally not a problem at all. Thats what its all about, getting involved with you guys! Ill make sure to get it sorted and let you know when its out Pat. Have a great weekend! 👍🏼

[@nudger44]

Hi josh. Do you recommend finishing oil for WR mdf that’s what I used to make work top. Now need to find best sealant for the WR Tks great vids

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Hi Rob, I would probably use Shellac or Danish oil. Danish is cheaper for us in the UK and Ive got a gallon of it so thats what I would use lol but Ive heard guys having great results with Shellac

[@nudger44]

@@TheNaturalWorkshop never used shellac. & cost is not a issue. Just want the better finish

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Personally I would go for Danish Oil. Its penetrates the wood where as Shellac is a surface finish and if you end up using alcohol at any point this can dissolve the Shellac finish. Plus the DO seems to be more water resistant.

[@nudger44]

@@TheNaturalWorkshop your help is much appreciated

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

No problem at all, good luck 👍🏼

[@philipb867]

Can you apply hardwax oil on top of danish oil?

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

I probably wouldnt because the hard wax will contain oils and they need to penetrate into the material to give it protection.

[@josephromero1596]

What if we’re painting the MDF first? Does this still apply or is it different with painted MDF?

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Depending on the paint you would need to let it cure properly before you added a top coat. To be honest, I would probably just paint with something like barn paint and just leave it. Then when it gets trashed you can just give it another coat 👍🏼

[@josephromero1596]

@@TheNaturalWorkshop honestly used basic water base paints and rolled it on and never had any issues with it at all- but I’m bout to make an extension wing for table saw and need a durable top/clear coat to go over the black paint (water based paint) or maybe oil based would be better for durability?

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

To be honest 90% of the points I use are water based. I would use the paint and then wax it. You could always danish oil after painting and then wax it. That way you get some sort of hard coat and the wax but to be honest Ive got a bit of waxed MDF I use for an outfeed occasionally and Ive never had any issues with it, even when Ive spilt a coffee over it lol

[@neilmunro7961]

Paint?

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Could do, I would go for something hard wearing like an acrylic floor paint but at some point you will need to sand it back which is going to gum up the paper and cause hassle.

[@richardseifried7574]

Doesn't anybody use epoxy?

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Very expensive in the UK and Danish oil does a good enough job. For a tenner Ive got half a can of oil for an 8x4 top and the other half for more work and when the top gets damaged I can just sand it back, retreat and then go again.

[@swest9775]

bro you need to use a wireless mic

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

🤣 I know dude, its on the list of things to get sorted. No point in spending the money out if no one is interested in the content but it seems to be worth a go so Im working on it 👍🏼

[@swest9775]

@@TheNaturalWorkshop invest in the channel you want… not the channel you have. It will become what you invest in it.

[@TheNaturalWorkshop]

Great advice man, very true!