How to Hand Stitch Leather - Saddle Stitch - Modern Style - Tutorial Part 2

[@bardster]

Everything you have ever taught us about stitch, in three fantastic videos. Required viewing for any budding leather worker!

[@timothyreeves3315]

It’s truly amazing how the color pops in the thread when you hammer it down.

[@gorp3264]

Now I understand why you kept warning against skipping bits of the video in the first part :)). This is priceless. You make it all seem so easy. A million thanks. :)

[@robhite8885]

Just like many if not all the others that have commented at this point in time I appreciate the detailed walkthrough. I have seen many demonstrate doing the same things you are without explaining the reasons why as you said. Because of this video I have changed my mind and now realize that I need a stitching pony. Not that I don’t do well without one but I now see that consistency comes from consistency. The consistency of the grip from the pony frees up both hands to work equally. Thank you.

[@viroslav21]

Absolutely fantastic tutorials. ❤Thank you so much.

[@ArmitageLeather]

Thank you for the lovely words.

[@eerht33]

How can I give this video a million thumbs up?!? I had sooooo many questions that have been answered between Part 1 and 2 already. I'm going right on to watch Part 3

[@joshuating5265]

Absolute masterclass

[@Ps2352]

Absolutely the best instruction on stitching leather! You’ve answered so many questions. I can’t wait to put these to use. The calculator is brilliant. Wow, it’s these small things that inspire. I appreciate it immensely.

[@ArmitageLeather]

Thank you, glad you find it of use.

[@drewwhitaker315]

This series is amazing... I've, to this point in the series, learned more than in all the other stitching videos I've watched. You must be or was a professor!

[@dreamerartworx]

EXTREMELY GOOD tutorial! Great info, great video angles and also for speaking clearly so it's easy to understand! Thank you for including all the small details and all important things! I really appreciate that you brought up what happens if you have an angle of the thread when tensioning. Thank you alot! You have my respect and my subscription! :) Have a great day and keep up the good work! Thank you!

[@simonweber4150]

Thank you very much! You‘ve made the absolut best and most detailed stitching tutorial series on the internet 👏👏👏

[@newapologist]

Thank you Nigel! I thought I would hate stitching but after learning the correct way to stitch from you, I enjoy it. Somewhat relaxing.

[@mp_martin]

Thanks for the app. Very useful. And thanks for the updated FREE lessons.

[@VolkerNZ]

THANK YOU. A real stitching tutorial! My Stitching improved instantly. 🙂

[@martinpoulsen6564]

Very nice and nerdy! Well sorry - that was a compliment. Love the details and explanations as to why not an alternative solution. Fabulous!

[@Fingerchisel]

Thank you for making stitching so much clearer.

[@Fingerchisel]

Now all I need is to find out where to buy these things in the UK.

[@sist1756]

Thank you so much for that informative and detailed tutorial👍. Liked and subscribed. Greetings from Germany👋

[@russellbattersby4474]

Hi Nigel, Just been watching your tutorial on the modern saddle stitch episode 2 and just want to point out that the way you are using the pricking iron on the 2 pieces of leather will cause a problem because when you stitch the 2 pieces together , the stitching holes now create an X and are not either a forward / or a back /. This X will cause the needle to punch through leather fibre that has not been pricked with the iron. Other than that I have learned an immense amout fron your tutelage ! Thanx Russell

[@M.Kursat.B]

This is the difficulty I struggled with. You've voiced my problem. Thanks

[@ArmitageLeather]

Perhaps a re-watch would assist. Evidently, it works as you see the results in the video. This X is quite clearly explained and intentional. I developed this style of stitching some years ago and have been testing, using and teaching it with great success since then. Trust the process.

[@ArmitageLeather]

@@M.Kursat.B Hope the above helps.

[@M.Kursat.B]

Thanks Nigel, I will watch again and definitely I need to practice more

[@fmaugusto1191]

Excelent my friend, many thanks.

[@FinFu509]

I started my leather work recently and I’ve seen many tutorials, but nothing like this! Most of the materials I’ve seen in the past are tips, but what you’re giving here is definitely lessons! Thank you so much!

[@springstreetgarage5499]

Thank you for an amazingly informative video. I'm just starting leatherwork and have watched dozens of videos on saddle stitching that mostly say, "do it this way." Your explanation of WHY to do it "this way" is the best information I've received yet.

[@donovanmartinez8890]

I wish you were local. I’d like to take a few of your classes!

[@jgdevoe]

Good info on Tandy (no idea it was that old) and on stitch groove. Of course that was a tool I first thought I had to have.

[@ArmitageLeather]

I think you are referring to one of the other videos on the review section of the channel. Glad you have clarity on the Stitch Groove.

[@shanewood6765]

I am really enjoying and learning a lot from this video. I appreciate the time and effort and knowledge your sharing.

[@jolIyjoeker]

I am a man of fine detail, and I appreciate your thoroughness in your teachings.

[@jcool2220]

Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us. Getting consistent stitches with that beautiful slant has been something I’ve struggled with. This video just improved my stitching tenfold!

[@davemcgahhey]

Thank you so much! Well worth the time. Everything you said makes so much sense and now I know why. Much appreciated!

[@giovanivilla]

Hello. First of all, very good explanations. In the part where you join two pieces of leather, using the iron awl that makes inclined holes, I believe that each side (each piece) of leather was inclined to one side, and that's why some difficulties arose in the sewing. Since the pieces of leather are mirrored, the inclination of the hole must be opposite on each side, so that when joined they are the same... For example: on one side it is / / / / and on the other side it should be \ \ \ \, because when you join the flesh of the leathers, they are in the same direction... When you made the video, one piece ended up being / / / / and the other also / / / /... I hope I explained myself enough and helped...

[@12cm32]

Agreed, unless I missed something, an x will be really weak as all thread on 1 point, all holes must face the same for lacing/sewing/joining or no meat for strength...

[@broken1965]

I learned more in 2 vids than years of bad video examples but I've been a old school lace person thread stiching is kinda new for me an enjoy it more😢

[@penworkstudios]

Thank you for clarifying the thread length, I still measure by hand much of my stuff and I write it down on projects I already know that take that length. But you have given me a better explanation of how this tried and true process works so I can teach this to my students.

[@davidenglund]

@ArmitageLeather, thanks so much for this very detailed teaching on saddle stitching. It's finally making sense to me! LoL. Question. What about when you have three layers of thick leather (e.g., 3 layers of 7-9 oz) such as for some knife sheaths? What's the correct way to punch your stitch holes through then? I'm a beginner, and I'm afraid I just pounded that chisel down until it got through. But the holes on the back were tiny and hard to get through with the needle. And, from your video I now know I was damaging my face side by pounding the chisel in so hard. Can you please explain how to do this properly?? Thanks!

[@michaelshea4834]

Nigel actually builds a knife sheath on his website. The the things you'll pick up from the instruction is invaluable. You'll be quite thrilled with the content. It is every bit as good as these three videos. (I have not built any of these sheaths myself, built have built many other things)

[@davidenglund]

@@michaelshea4834 Thanks, but can't afford another monthly bill.

[@samg8822]

There is more video content for KZbin to follow on the subject of saddlestitch and its applications, including multiple layers. Stay tuned.

[@otdunes7822]

Where do you buy the pounding mat for your pricking irons shown e.g. at 33:39 ? Thanks

[@ArmitageLeather]

These are Oka Pads, I get ming from SFLeather here in the UK

[@otdunes7822]

Thank you ! @@ArmitageLeather

[@ricardobp007]

Great video!!!

[@robdubent]

I’ll still use a stitch groover for certain things like knife sheaths, etc. if they’ve been cases. Also like to do it on the suede side of things where there will be any of rubbing like card pockets in soft wallets, etc but it isn’t necessary in most applications

[@brianayres4566]

Thank you, this has been very helpful. Im just starting out. I had to repair the stitching on a knife sheath and think I've caught the "bug"!

[@VonDutch68]

Thanks Nigel ! Now I know why I was piercing thread regularly......😊

[@jgdevoe]

At the 15" mark you are right hand casting so is that also the face of the work piece? Would you always want to cast on the face side? Might have missed that in first video.

[@samg8822]

I can only suggest that a rewatch of the first video and then this one up to the point of you query is in order. There is a great deal of information in these videos that comes from Nigel’s wealth of experience. Unlike many shorter tutorials that only give a “how to” snapshot, all the reasons why and when are included in this series. Taking one query like yours out of context and giving you a yes or no answer will not teach you how to work it out for yourself and would therefore be pointless as within these videos is the opportunity to learn the details that will make that question void.

[@johnjingleheimersmith9259]

@@samg8822 I'm pretty sure the answer to their question is just "yes". I've watched and rewatched the first video and there's no "other context" Not sure why you would not answer such a simple question and throw extra work for the person. This isn't a textbook so things can be out of order or not compleltely clear or evident so sometimes it helps to just answer questions directly and if it needs context then to provide it for other who may have the same question... as there is often a reason people miss it and it often goes back to the original material or how it was delivered, even if it is great material. You cast on the face side so you can properly arrange the thread so they fall in the correct order and it all looks good and consistent on the face side.

[@ArmitageLeather]

@@johnjingleheimersmith9259 If you have watched and rewatched the video, I'm sure you will have picked up the vital bit of information that casting is not done as a matter of course. It is dictated by the angle of the hole you are working with which will tell you if you need to cast or not. If we follow your advice of simply yes, then your back stitching will be flat, spoiling your stitch line. So, that is the context, it is very important that you use the casting technique to suit your own stitching style and how the holes are sitting for you. Just saying yes is not a sufficient or adequate answer. If everyone who watches this video, adopts this stitching style, then yes, to an extend, you would be half right, but we know that is just not the case. So now you know why the question was answered as such. The video is very detailed on this topic, hence the correct advice to watch, and rewatch. Nigel

[@Sayid112]

What type of punching pad is for your chisel? Do you have a link?

[@harindergill7221]

Thank you again

[@PastorTFS]

Great leatherwork! But I have to say the lighting, focus, angle of the camera work is just as meticulous. I am thankful for that because I can now see exactly what’s being done many of these tutorials have a camera halfway across the room.

[@JustinCaseWhat]

Sir, thank you very much for this complete course. Your videos about saddle stitch are amazing (the others are too), so detailed, a first I think, KZbin wise... Nonetheless, I still have one question... I watched a lot of videos about saddle stich over the years, from various crafters around the world, some more amateur than others, but I noticed that almost all of them keep stitching left handed (left hand priority), with the leather (grain side/face side) facing right. They also keep casting on the left side (flesh side, back of the piece). I used to stitch like that, but I find that the right handed technique and casting on the rightside helps making the face stitch crispier, more detailed. Any thoughts/explanation about this left handed habit? They could be all left handed (XD), but in that case, they would have the face side of the leather facing left... Thank you!

[@ArmitageLeather]

I think you have answered your own question here Justin, if you find my method works for you, then it is a good method. As for why others are doing what they are doing, like you, I would have to ask them.

[@madcat1007]

If, as you say, a stitch groove allows water ingress, then surely punching holes in it also allows water in? Or am I missing something?

[@axemanmike4390]

Good point!!!!

[@housediablo3556]

It's like Jorah Mormont from GoT is teaching me how to sew leather

[@hackdlc]

You’ve probably forgotten more about leather working than I have learned. I quit using a stitch groomer early on and I just use my dividers.

[@deepdiver849]

Hi Nigel Thanks for this! Just one question. What about the thickness of the thread? Doesn’t it interfere in the length. For example I mostly use 3mm pricking iron, with 0.45mm or 0.35mm...wouldn’t i need more or less depending on the thickness of the thread?

[@ArmitageLeather]

It's more about the journey that thread takes rather than how thick it is. A 0.35mm thread will travel the same distance as a 1mm thread, so in short, no, it makes little difference.

[@deepdiver849]

Thanks for the response. I just wanted to make sure while using your thread length calculator!@@ArmitageLeather

[@JamieM-n3q]

​@@ArmitageLeather Hi nigel just a quick question i am sure you mentioned something about water blisters on one of your recent videos but i cant seem to find it now .i had a few water blisters on a pouch made from sedjwicks 1900s collection leather not near the stitching what would the best way to treat the leather before a project .Thanks

[@voldem273]

Sounds like rocketscience sometimes for me 😂

[@natheerjavith3387]

55 th minutes very important

[@Raccoonsareawesome]

I don't agree about the tension angles. There are more situations where the thread have to be tensioned at an angle, with very thin leather, for example a watch strap around 2mm in thickness, it will be impossible (at least with a lot of leather types) to get a nice slant on both sides unless the thread is tensioned at an angle. (And of course it's stitched with a cast) And yes I can stitch with good consistent results.

[@ArmitageLeather]

Perhaps a watch of all the videos would help. you seem to be arguing a point that is clearly covered.

[@paulfellowes4879]

I disagree with the angle tensions being used to suggest you know what you're doing...that's a ridiculous hypothesis. Hermes bag makers for example use many different types of leather and all use this angled.approach to tension when stitching . I've visited the Hermes studios several times in Pantin Paris and examined work close up, and there was no evidence of elongated stitching holes back or front, unevenness or irregular stitch length

[@ArmitageLeather]

Then a prime example of... 'if you know what you are doing, don't change anything" I'm sure I state that quite clearly. You also clearly hear me say that angled tension is a valid technique, if you watch all the videos, you even see that I show you how and when to employ it. As a professional leatherworker and teacher, I see frequently the damage this technique causes to the leather by those not understanding the technique correctly. Measuring those learning how to stitch from videos against professional leatherworkers is not overly helpful to anyone. These videos are clearly for those wanting to learn or are struggling with their techniques. In that context, for early stage leatherworkers, angled tension would be a poor choice.