Nightmare Jaguar: Uncovering Poor Repairs on an Old Classic

[@pbysome]

Big job, hardest thing for you is keeping motivated. One tip, when cutting the door skin ,grind the edge until you see the join between the outer and the fold the piece will then just come away easily without distorting it. I hate these people selling rot boxes for top money, all they do is make the job harder for the next man.

[@scotty6346]

The main rot problem areas on MK2's are rot at the base of the A pillars which you have found! Be sure to check the front Chassis legs, X member, Crows feet, Front floor pans, Inner and outer sills, Rear seat pan and spring boxes and rear inner arches before you commit to restoring it! I've owned 7 MK2's over the years and currently have a pretty original, Unmolested 1964 3.8, Jaguar built these cars to a cost so they rot like any other 1960's car did!

[@leebrowning3668]

Yep agree with all of that if those spring boxes are gone or going it's how much rot you find going upto the main pillars

[@thomasshepard6030]

I bought a mark 2 2.4 automatic 1964 I bought it in 1977 for £700 it originally belonged to the whiskey 🥃 company chivas regal paisley Scotland 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿 only 43 thousand miles on the clock had been completely rust proofed top to bottom there was not one bit of rust it had been garaged and chauffeur driven since new I used it as a daily driver for about 2 years until one day on the motorway a french lorry driver pulled out of his lane and smashed me into the crash barrier and wrote my beautiful jag off

[@johnmurray3324]

@@thomasshepard6030 done loads of these they are really solid or really rotten the outriggers are usually non existent rot bad but when finished they are great good luck

[@raymondmumford6255]

My gosh, the previous repair work was absolutely atrocious. Big job ahead, looking forward to watching future episodes😊 Your very talented.

[@philtucker1224]

The temporary engine is great but it has to have the 3.8 Jaguar engine in it to retain any value at all.

[@macca_1999]

Hi! I loved the video (sorry but I didn't like the music though...). Great work, cars from the era normally have signs of previous bad repairs, stick with it and before you know it she is going to be A1 again. looking forward to the next one!

[@ThePhizStar]

Hey Andrew. Music is only there to break up the silence through the time-lapses. I will find something else for the next one. Thanks for watching!

[@kennethtalbott2233]

this is why i do my own repairs. 99% of garages will not be thorough and make proper panels. they will generally only do what you can see. nice work.

[@1htalp9]

The engine compartment should be painted body color. That's the way they came from the factory. You've got a tremendous amount of work in front of you. Rust is the restorer's worst nightmare.

[@gryfandjane]

Wishing you the very best with this project! The Mk1 / Mk2 is one of my favorite classic Jaguars. So sorry to see all the hidden rot…

[@ThePhizStar]

Unfortunately it is what it is. Can only be rectified at this point.

[@lilianecasner3336]

Jeeez you have some work ahead you, as a young man in the late sixtys I used to run around in these cars they were rusty then mainly around the rear spring,the body used to give way and sink low,more or less then we used to scrap them,and get another you could pick them up for around £25/ 50 pounds those were the days,good luck👍

[@jediwarlord8718]

Amazing video. Hope the rebuild is coming along well 😊. Can’t wait to see more of it

[@uhn100]

Wow that is some of the worst repair work I have ever seen done to a Jag you sir are doing a magnificent job of restoration I assume you will treat the cavitys with wax oil or some other rust preventive I look forward to seeing the next parts of this best regards Andy Allen

[@petesmith2132]

In 1976, I purchased a 1968 Daimler V8 250 (same bodyshell as the Jaguar mk2). That was even more rusty than this Jaguar, and that was only 8 years old!

[@nigelcharlton-wright1747]

Comparing my welding to a so called professional bodyshop makes me feel so much better. I wonder if the person who worked on the Mk2 (Mad Dave) worked on my wife's Nissan Figaro. Had to remove his so called repairs in 2014 after the work done in 2011, the paint peeled off the car and bad to weld new metal on both the rear wheel arches. £680 wasted. Good luck with the rebuild, these are great cars to drive.

[@snowyren5135]

Impressive

[@davearobb]

First view of your channel today, looks good and I'm looking forward to future videos, well done. Lovely old cars but like a lot of old British motors susceptible to rust, and some of the old repairs I just useless! Keep it up

[@rockeroller]

Old car community is filled with flippers who do cr@p repairs like this jag suffered from.

[@philtucker1224]

I hope the owner has had better luck with his other classics!

[@jdeckard1243]

You're going to have to totally strip the car back to bare metal and just start over again, cut out the rot and let new metal in. Any classic will be hiding something under its shinny paint, unless you know the car personally.

[@ThePhizStar]

I wanted to avoid it but I have started doing it already. Will delay the finish but it's a much better final finish.

[@simonward7344]

Good work

[@Chris-uu3cp]

Great video, thanks for sharing!

[@johnwaldock9332]

Thanks for sharing your work, I also have a mark 2 which I bought a yr ago. Luckily I know the owner well, and fingers crossed, the body is pretty good. All the filler in the guard you have is v concerning, looks like an 80s bodge. It would be v tempting to take the whole car back to bare metal, perhaps that’s what you are doing ind I missed it.

[@TorquilBletchleySmythe]

Your paint stripper is probably modern stuff made for acrylics. It will work eventually on enamel and duco, but it's best to find something made for it.

[@othellolagkage]

Hi. Good video, looking forward to future ones. One comment though, I personally think that the music was a bit jarring, check out soup classic motoring, his videos are really nice and I feel he has found music that suits all. I'm curious as to why you weld without a gas lens on your pistol? Keep up the good work 🙂

[@ThePhizStar]

Will look them up tonight. I wasn't sure on the music either, just didn't want awkward silence. Thanks. I was using gasless. I have had time to get my bottle refilled now, next video will have a nozzle on the gun. Thanks for watching however, and appreciate the attention to detail!

[@Triumphliefhebber]

I recognize the american cheap paint job where complete layers can just pealed off. My 1968 jaguar S Type had the cheap (plastic) paint sprayed over the original car manufacturers paint with a sealing coat in between. It didn’t adhere at all and was already splitting due to the heat of the sun😄 The body panels weren’t as bad as on your jaguar. Don’t understand why you are mig welding without the the gas tip on? The gas will not protect your weld against oxidation!

[@spamhead]

My 1960 3.8 was a bit worse, and full of fibreglass, not metal and filler! Luckily, all of the major repair panels are available. I think all 3.8 engines had sleeved cylinders by the way, so the cracking between is not so serious an issue if resleeved. Good luck with the project!

[@ThePhizStar]

I found only the other panels are available. Unable to buy the inner Pillar or the front guard inner wheel arch section anymore. Ohwell.

[@williamellis3961]

Nice workmanship. Save all the pieces for patterns as you go.

[@ThePhizStar]

Thank you. It's the plan, it would be helpful if there were photos online of how its supposed to look, not just people's interpretations of it. I haven't touched the other side yet as It's good to have for for visual representation as I go, especially shapes like the wheel arch.

[@wojtekpawlowski4951]

Greetings from Poland where I fight rust on another jaguar. Mk2 is one of my dream models. Keep good work. Let us know please where you live. Jungle could be heard in the backyard

[@ThePhizStar]

I live in Australia. I hope to make it a extremely good example once it's finished. What Jaguar are you working on? Thanks!

[@wojtekpawlowski4951]

@@ThePhizStar 91 xjs and 75 xj6c. The xjs is a driver. The xj6c is not. I restore it all nuts and bolts

[@AdamAus85]

Damn, those are some big numbers, ouch. I bought a sight unseen 03 530i from Sydney and shipped it to Gold Coast. Had that same m54 you got there. Anyway, runs worse than the old 02 525i I have (with 411 000kms) and some panels were resprayed very very poorly. High spec with some rare options and individual paint. But in the end I fobbed it off. Just didn't like having a dishonest car around. Thankfully the money spent was much less than those you quoted. Fortunately I have an 05 Alfa Romeo 156 sportswagon and a 05 Alfa Romeo 166 3.0 V6 to play around with.

[@mdogg1604]

I'm no expert on these beautiful cars, but am I correct in assuming the front fenders are part of the unibody construction? I was looking for fender bolts but didn't see any.

[@ThePhizStar]

Yes unfortunately. It would of been much easier to change the fender if it was a simple bolted part, but it's welded one piece into the body.

[@sierrawhiskey5155]

You could make your channel stand out from the large crowd of similar cut-out-rot & restore videos by showing the relevant drawings of the individual Pressed-Steal Panels as they would have been made at the factory and how the panels were joined together. This would make it clear what you're trying to reproduce. Also talk about best practice with respect to welding and steel anti-corrosion options. Your using the spot-weld drill made little sense if you knew the section underneath was bad. The idea of the expensive spot-weld drill is to preserve the original metal so you kind it used it from the wrong side. Also when using any metal drill the objective is to keep the drill bit cool. This will prevent softening of the drill bit material and help to preserve the edge. I would use a small container of oil or cutting fluid, dip the drill into it before each use in order to keep the bit cool.

[@ThePhizStar]

Hi Sierra. I have attempted to find original structural photos of how the whole lower A post section is from factory. However I seem to be only able to find recreations of how it is supposed to sit. There are no photos anywhere ( at least from my research ) for where each piece exactly and how they sit. Martin Robley only lists pictures of some parts, so the Sill panel for example is easy to find out how it from the manufacturer, however the inner lower post seems to not exist online. Will talk more about welding & components when I get back into that from section and finish it up. Trust me, I would love for a photo of how it is from factory to directly compared to. I used a spot weld bit so I can keep and track where they are. Yes, I do understand what you are saying. I wanted to try and possibly save the section without buying a new one, however once I took it off you can see the reality. I have a few of these bits also.

[@sierrawhiskey5155]

@@ThePhizStar Very best wishes for the project. Thanks for posting the Vids. Maybe good pictures or drawings are available from a Jag owners club here in the UK, USA or OZ ??

[@ThePhizStar]

Thank you. I will ask around. Can't find anything in any restoration projects online either.

[@ngauruhoezodiac3143]

That body isn't too bad. About 6 weeks of work for panelbeating and welding.

[@dukwdriver2909]

A lot of patience and metal working skills needed to undo the botched repairs on this one, Good luck.

[@ThePhizStar]

See how we go with the rest of the body, Thanks 👍

[@GK-sh7ck]

Are you still continuing Mk-2 repairs?

[@smiddysmidton8313]

Makes me ill looking at some of the repairs i've seen and to think of some of the money people have spent on these things. My tip be VERY wary of auctions unless you really know your stuff. The classic car auctions are full of these sort of 20 footer cars .

[@thomasshepard6030]

My god I bought my mark 2 in 1977 for £700 and it was absolutely mint wish I owned it now

[@__-pg6ic]

Trick I learned it use a heat gun and a scraper. It just falls right off like putty. P.O. bogged up my old Mazda RX-2 took a day of scraping to get cleaned.

[@davidmckinney6577]

I've got a jaguar vanden plas 1999 and it's severely rotted out the floor pans and the frame rails coming down the firewall and turning back to the 90 degree angle both sides the inside panel is gone wouldn't take much and it would break so I'm going to construct a full perimeter chassis for it gonna be hard though

[@ThePhizStar]

Will be a big job. Please upload some photos or videos of it as it seems very interesting.

[@MadSceintist]

Certainly can't stand crappy people that do horrible work and take people for tons of money

[@jagvette1]

C'mon MORE video's

[@krulzy1]

Get a big tin of Metal mend . That's what we used in the old days . You'll be done in no time

[@bigears4014]

When a cheap vw was built and painted better than a jag , they mustn't have even thought about rust prevention

[@ivanfernyhough3851]

It was the late 50s early 60s,ofcourse they didnt think much about rust protection.nobody did back then.it was down to the owner to do protective maintenance.i have a 1968 s type.bin in the family since 1986.i am just in the process of having new crows feet and front crosdmember fitted other than that it is remarkably solid for a 55 year old car.the steel is so thick compared to modern tin cans but obviously rust prevention has come a long way since the 60s.mine will be getting plenty when i get it back again.

[@ThePhizStar]

Nope, little protection as far as I can see 🤷‍♂️

[@smiddysmidton8313]

Quite typical of the era. Nearly all cars of the time were mechanically robust , rust is the killer of all these cars.

[@chrishedlund3196]

Who heck would do that? Good luck. Wow

[@peter-e2q]

Makes no sense why, instead of wasting a fortune, your stepdad didn’t come to you first!

[@ldnwholesale8552]

Its a 60 y/o Jag. Jags rust and leak oil! And crack blocks.

[@philscarriage73]

If only they put some wax oil in the doors on the production line when new.

[@janvanderflier1723]

Impressive, respect! I know it is not my business but please wear some decent shoes....Best regards from The Netherlands

[@ThePhizStar]

Welcome from Australia. I generally do wear enclosed shoes, I can't even think to why I had thongs/flip flops on as I find them uncomfortable. Thanks for watching)!

[@ACE999]

Will you ever recover your hours spent? Are you working for $2.00 an hour?

[@ThePhizStar]

It's family, I'm not working for any monetary gain.

[@gar6446]

They rust horribly, you would be better off selling the salvageable bits and buying a good example.

[@kiwiinaustria]

man it cut's me when i see these rotted cars with make up, we had a frog eye sprite last week that the accelarator pedal fell out the bottom of the car and the steering rack wasn't bolted into thesteering box leaving you with no steering if you pulled on it'!!

[@ThePhizStar]

😳

[@robertiggulden2998]

The British climate destroys all known cars !

[@ThePhizStar]

Well, it's an Australian delivered car, obviously must of caught something on the way from Britan 🤣

[@joeedwards627]

You can’t buy modern paint stripper that works,better off drinking it

[@ThePhizStar]

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