Nintendo 64 No Video Fix! - N64 Console No Video, Reset Button, Controller Port Fix Restoration

[@YounRangr]

I'm currently trying to sort out a no video/sound output with my N64. The detail of video is worth the watch to give me the depth and detail of what I can conduct to my diagnose the problem myself. I want to restore my old friend. Thanks for the quality. Will sub.

[@totalfix877]

Glad it helped and thanks for watching and the sub! 🙌

[@Goldrush1988]

So I bought a N64 on Ebay and it wasn't showing video. I followed this guide and cleaned it good my first time ever and it worked! Appreciate the video bro you're awesome!

[@totalfix877]

That’s awesome, I’m glad that fixed it for you! Thanks for watching 😃

[@funnrun3399]

You actually showed me how to repair my n64 circuit board so many videos say it's the controller I fix retro video game consoles N64s are usually reliable I appreciate your video

[@kibagami25]

I love these videos. Keep making more. Even if they are longer i love them.

[@totalfix877]

Thank you! I appreciate the feedback! I’ll be releasing some more in the upcoming days.

[@jackschule8018]

Thanks man, I recently purchased an n64 off eBay and the reset button wouldn’t work. Your video helped wonders and now everything works as it should. Keep it up!

[@totalfix877]

Glad I could help! Thanks for stopping by 😀

[@electronash]

12:00 It does look like there's maybe a bit of rust fallen from the power switch or cart connector, and bridging pins 158 and 159 on the RCP. (I'm fairly sure pins 158 and 160 are both grounds.) That weird trace going to pin 159 is actually the CCTL (Current Control, IIRC) pin, which actually sets the voltage threshold for the RDRAM controller. Without that, it won't boot at all, ofc. There's a resistor on the underside of the board to set the threshold, using VTERM as a reference. The reason for the weird stripline trace is to help match the impedance better, since CCTL is a return path for all of the currents that happen when the RDRAM signals are switching. The N64 is generally very robust, but they are getting quite old now. Often it's things like the cart connector or PSU which tend to fail first.

[@totalfix877]

Awesome breakdown! Thanks for all the info! Where are you getting the PCB and IC information from for consoles? I’m curious as this may help me further understand some of the components.

[@electronash]

@@totalfix877 Many years ago, I reverse-engineered the full N64 motherboard, using my trusty £12 "Vichy VC97" multimeter. lol I made a few prototype Mini N64 boards, the first one was only 100mm x 120mm, and did actually boot. (albeit at only 4/5 the normal freq, due to my less-than-ideal RDRAM routing. The RDRAM is very fussy about the trace impedance etc.) Around the same time, a friend by the name of "RDC" was also working on some N64 stuff. Within about a week, he had the few main versions of the N64 mobo stripped down and reversed into schematics. :o You can still find his schematics online. I think on the old benheck archives.

[@electronash]

The Jumper Pak is necessary for adding the 51-Ohm pull-up resistors from most of the RDRAM lines, to the VTERM voltage. VTERM is just a fixed voltage supply, and comes from the PQ7VZ5 regulator. It should be around 2.56V. The RDRAM (and RDRAM Controller in the RCP) can only ever pull the signals down to ground I think (open drain). So without the resistors in the Jumper Pak (or Expansion Pak), it's impossible to get the RDRAM working. The main clock for the RDRAM comes from one of the MX PLL chips, then actually goes through the Jumper Pak port, through the Pak itself, then back to the RDRAM chips on the motherboard, in a loop.

[@soulmourne2698]

Honestly the first thing i always do with this old consoles is give a good clean to everything with ipa to the memory expansion port to the cartridge slot to the av port to to the reset button couse it can get stuck and be in a reset loop, the chips, and 99,99999% of the time that fixes any issues with a n64, the n64 is a very good quality system, modern consoles are not bad but need maintenance of thermal paste and cleaning and are much harder to open up without breaking them down, and to fix them you usually need more advanced soldering skills, a usb c port on the switch is not as easy to change or as resistant as an old big port

[@totalfix877]

It's funny how most systems are not truly broken, just dirty!

[@DR.ELEKTRIK]

This console brings back memories!

[@kornpb]

Continue with the videos. I'm an electronics technician in Brazil. I always recommend replacing the capacitors with new ones. Some don't work until exchanged. congratulations for the video.

[@totalfix877]

Thanks, will do!

[@r.a.w.talentart]

You may have already had the same comment but just to let you know you don't have to remove all the heat sink screws, just the ones around the edge and the two small ram screws. Good video keep it up

[@totalfix877]

I was unaware. That should help me a bit during the teardown. Thanks for the advice!!

[@r.a.w.talentart]

@@totalfix877 totally understand, when I started in this game I never new. Just thought it would help

[@letstalkdiscgolf2822]

I love these keep em coming! Thank you!

[@houstonluxuryevents]

Question, i have severeal pins bridged toghter via solder on the IC chip. i purchased some wick to try and remove but doesnt really come off. do you have any suggestions

[@totalfix877]

I certainly do! When that tends to happen you're gonna want to do a few things. 1. Apply fresh flux to the bridged pins 2. Make sure your soldering iron tip is cleaned or remove as much solder that has stuck to the iron (doesnt have to be perfect, just need the excess solder to come off). You can just use brass sponge or the moist cleaning sponge that typically comes with your solder. 3. Next you're going to want to touch the iron tip on the joints that are bridged and pull the iron towards you. Remove the excess solder by cleaning it similar to step 2. 4. Repeat steps 2-3 until bridge is removed, if solder is starting to "stick" or become less "flowy" apply a bit more flux. Hope this helps and good luck!

[@brianh7331]

Where do you like to buy your capacitors for soldering onto these boards?

[@totalfix877]

I just buy them from wherever I can get them honestly, but my main sources are always Console5, Handheld Legend and word of mouth from users in our Discord lobbies.

[@Evilslayer73]

I have the same problem shorted pins it is caused by soldering melted or just dust?

[@GunnarGFORCE2]

21:12 what is that yellow thing called?😊

[@totalfix877]

That is a fume extractor 😀

[@aleqx03]

Very good video can’t wait to see more

[@highellf]

18:23 Awesome video help me get the rest switch working again🔥🔥🔥

[@calofe9]

Hola... No hablo inglés... Necesito reparar la conexión de el slot...donde se conecta el Jumper pack... Ojalá me puedas ayudar. Gracias.

[@totalfix877]

Hola! No entiendo la pregunta, esta defectuoso el cartucho de expansión, o las conexiones?

[@totalfix877]

Lo leyi de nuevo y creo que entendí. Lo que yo siempre hago es limpiar el cartucho con alcohol de 91% o más con cepillo de dientes. O también se puede aplicar el alcohol directamente en los contactos del cartucho y sacar y poner el expansion para que se limpie bien. Si eso no trabaja, yo empiezo a inspeccionar las juntas del cartucho y el circuito. Ay veces que las juntas soldadas están quebradas o no están haciendo bien contactó. Si ese el casó, yo empiezo a soldar las juntas de nuevo. Ojalá que me explique bien, mi español ya no es tan bueno 🤣

[@Mares220]

Hello, I got a problem with my nintendo 64 and I hope you can help me. I don't get any video output on my console, but the light turns on. The only thing I noticed on the mainboard is a broken capacitor at C145 and that the component with the description 'X2' is kind of 'leaking'. Can you tell me what component this is and if I there is a way to replace it? Thanks a lot! And cool video btw!

[@totalfix877]

According to the documentation on this, it’s in charge of reading and writing to the game ROM. You can read more about it here: n64brew.dev/wiki/PIF-NUS This should not be difficult to replace if you have a spare available.

[@mbagle]

great video. will watch more content. can you do something with the reflection?

[@totalfix877]

Yeah of course! I’m assuming you’re referring to the light reflection from the screen? Thanks for watching!

[@holdenafart7372]

what does it mean if the console gets the colored jail bars with and without a game

[@totalfix877]

It can be multiple reasons, but it's hard to diagnose unless we can inspect and go through the troubleshooting steps to isolate the issue.

[@rainbowrepair5692]

Great video. Keep making more

[@totalfix877]

Thank you!

[@TheGingusa]

my n64 wont show video but i dont have all those fancy tools you got. i opened it and its pretty darn clean but i toothbrushed what dust i could find but it wont show video.

[@totalfix877]

Some of the times it could be a cold solder (a joint that has cracked or doesn’t form a proper joint causing poor connection). Also, are you getting any sound?

[@santosalvarado8714]

I have a pikachu 64 I get no video but I'm waiting for my screwdriver to come in the mail to open it up and send u a video could u help?

[@totalfix877]

I can take a look, but might be tough to troubleshoot without the proper tools.

[@jamesscarborough77]

My N64 has audio, but no video. Any help is appreciated.

[@chocargames2962]

I don't understand what he did to give a video signal, did he only clean the integrated ones?

[@totalfix877]

There was corrosion between 2 of the pins on the integrated circuit that was causing a bridged connection. I used 99% IPA to remove the corrosion to break up that bridged connection.

[@chocargames2962]

Thanks for the information in the case of not being a corrosion bridge between the integrated pad that can cause the nintendo 64 not to video

[@billygoat2741]

My n64 says that theres no controller connected even though there is. I tried pluging in my other 2 controllersbut nothing change, any solutions to this problem

[@totalfix877]

The first thing I would do is check to see if any of the other controller ports are working (2,3,4). If that’s doesn’t work, normally I would simply do compressed air or clean it out using 99% IPA. Once again if neither of those things work, then I would proceed to open the system and inspect if there is any corrosion, dirt or cold solder joints on the affected controller port. If there is corrosion on the joints, simply clean it with some 99% IPA and some old toothbrush or clean q-tips, and then test to see if it works. If it still fails, simply reflow the 6 solder joints found on the bottom of the board associated to the controller port that’s affected. Lastly if none of that works….I would probably switch out that affected port with another one. Hope this helps and your N64 starts working again!

[@billygoat2741]

Thank you so much for this information Hope I could play mario party 3 again

[@SharonisCarin321]

Do you offer service?

[@totalfix877]

Locally I do as favors, but I don’t have a storefront. I mainly do this as a hobby but I can look at something if you’d like.

[@SharonisCarin321]

@@totalfix877 Ahh it's fine. I was merely asking. If it's merely a hobby no worries. It had to do with my aging NINTENDO 64 console

[@WheeledHamster]

I like retro stuff being repaired than being thrown in the trash, can't say the same for the iPhone 13 in 2041.

[@totalfix877]

😂

[@JeffernyMorgan]

It’s true I also find cockroaches 😅😅in mine and me clean it and nth still doesn’t work 😢 am so frustrated need to play n64

[@rezonite]

Nice man 👍

[@The.love1]

amazing video plz continue

[@totalfix877]

Thanks! I appreciate the feedback!

[@myREALnameISiAM]

Make sure your lense is dirtier next time you record...

[@totalfix877]

😢

[@franciscogimenez4178]

I hope you get lucky with your channel.

[@totalfix877]

Thanks! I appreciate it!

[@Pulverrostmannen]

Talking about cleaning stuff, you just need to clean your camera lens real quick ;)

[@totalfix877]

ROFL, You're right! I'm slowly saving up for a better one this upcoming year. Thanks for watching! 😄

[@Pulverrostmannen]

@@totalfix877 go for it! But you would get rid of a lot of glare if the lens was cleaner while you save for a new :) keep up the good work

[@CurrentGenGamesWithNick]

great video

[@theprofessor8517]

Technique is cringe. Board was still dirty and you got crap all over your ESD mat. At least you wore gloves.

[@totalfix877]

Thanks for the feedback! I’m still learning as I go, but thanks for watching as I try to continue to improve.