Nintendo switch, port is perfect but not charging and no display. LET'S DIVE IN!

[@davidb3520]

As someone else mentioned possibly RCM mode. I bought one off Ebay and all chips had been replaced, but had a black screen, I connected up to a PC which indicated it was in RCM mode. That was constantly changing at around 0.4 amps.

[@robertartc127]

Yes i had the same problem rcm mode .

[@andrewtaylor2697]

A shorted cap on the rear of the EMMC was one of my issues and a shorted cap on the rear of the motherboard behind the EMMC connector

[@ChristopheDebot]

Hi, What temperature and air flow do you use to solder ?

[@frozerinosrepairs]

Electronics repair school ( Sorin ) is the best in my opinion. I learned so much from him . Good video . Keep the good work Joey 🙂🙂🙂

[@empithree]

Most probably it's the RCM. It might be in AutoRCM mode. Try injecting a payload after full assembly. Something should come up on the screen

[@feid93]

How to inject payload?

[@anthonyyu2722]

Wow, that worked! I thought mine died. This is my second unpatched switch from ebay and I had sent the first one in for repair, thinking it was dead. Long story short, they couldn't repair it and I told them to recycle it. Looking back, I might have made a mistake and threw my money away. On this second switch, I gave what you said, a try (with nothing else to lose and thinking it's crazy and wouldn't work) and the missing SD card Hekate launch screen came up. So happy right now. These late night KZbin binges have paid off! Thanks and thank you KZbin algorithm, it's like you know my problems even though I didn't look for the answers. Now I'm really confused. Could it be that the first switch I had was fine this whole time and it was some AutoRCM power on issue?! Or could there still be problems with the switch that will lead up to a permadeath of the console. Oh well, at least I still have a new and unused OLED that I can send in to have it chipped and hope third time's a charm where I have a switch that will last more than a year.

[@revivaltechsolutions]

which caps are clear cpu shorted, and boards done?

[@GrandizerGo]

When you replaced the BQ chip, at the bottom of the screen there seemed to be a component that was wiggling around, and as you soldered the BQ chip, I saw it disappear?

[@ronlevin2339]

From what I know, constant current consumption is usually a CPU/GPU failure insure. You can try to check under the heat camera or with IPA if you have a heat from all sides of the CPU or only from one spot on it

[@SANKSANK1000]

From the first you have to measure the small cap in the left side near the M92 chip.. if the charging port gone wrong, that cap must be short.. its a simple trace..

[@steampunkg0]

Im repairing a switch and im in the same situation what i have noticed is there is a short under the voltage regulator (max chip) its shorting out both max chips today im gonna desolder the cap thats between the two bigger caps and aee if the short goes away

[@kurtvongurt758]

Have u been successfull?

[@StuP1981]

Great vid Joey. Could it be RCM mode?

[@feid93]

How to kick it out?

[@tyvaye]

Meme probleme non resolu , voltage present sur tout les zones , je pense que.sa soit le Emmc

[@timrandall4659]

What microscope arm are you using?

[@rocketrepairs]

www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004796942121.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.195.504018020G9VsF

[@jimmyramkisoen191278]

My experience is when you see 0.45 amp draw without booting even when replacing the ic's you have a bad nand. Bad nand is game over and you have a donor motherboard.

[@hove131]

This is correct

[@slickrx6908]

Not necessarily. You can connect it to another switch that is unpatched or chipped and dump it. And rebuild it if there is any missing partitions. The last resort is to use a donor prod info to rebuild the emmc but lose access to the eShop. Watch "StheTix" vids he has tutorials.

[@highroyds]

You can use mmcblkNX to confirm if the nand is faulty. I used it on mine which was from an unpatched switch and confirmed it was a nand issue, so bought a replacement nand and restored it with a firmware rebuild.

[@maddogsss1]

This could very well be stuck in rcm mode

[@SuperBrunh]

What solder do you use? 40%/ 60%?

[@highroyds]

Some have said it’s a faulty nand, you would need the mmcblkNX to read the nand to confirm if it is the nand at issue. It’s a great little device for switch nand repairs

[@TheSkaldenmettrunk]

What a strange fault..

[@Gametot85]

EMMC is fault

[@slickrx6908]

Not sure what is great about Electronic repair school. The videos I watched was him fixing things without giving any explanations. He is silent most of the time.

[@comradeyars]

My experience is the polar opposite of what you described. I'm not sure what all you've watched, but he has tons of videos where he goes into great detail on what he's doing, and why.

[@phynx-victumterra652]

that chip generates almost all the voltages excluding the 3.3v, all from the input 4.2v into the chip, also the one you tried to reball has physical damage

[@robertartc127]

Max77621 is broken.