No carabiner?

[@harlanstockman5703]

I've done lots of tests with rope rubbing over rope, under body weight. My setups that caused melting of the sling were pretty unrealistic, but they took just 6 seconds. The key is what motion would ever build up frictional heat fast enough for melting in that geometry? Maybe hang an 80 kg weight, and swing it back and forth from the base a reproducible amount.

[@freerideshuttle]

That's why you use a carabiner. I've learnt the hard way too, once I had no point of going ahead and as a newbie I just repelled on a extra piece of rope I had and while descending to ground I didn't notice what happened, saw it only on yhe second try of that route

[@benda18]

6 seconds is a relief. I can't last anywhere near that long.

[@TonySpinach]

Now we need a bfk retrace tutorial ahahah

[@dustinjohnson6256]

Can you please leave the kN on screen longer? Freaking love your content! And will be purchasing from your shop soon!

[@9711will]

Strikes me as a “get me the fuck out of this situation” sort of set up.

[@stusue9733]

You need to rename your channel! "You Might Not Die" lol

[@benda18]

Super alive enough for a while

[@pappafritto]

@@benda18ahaha haaa

[@muell000]

Isn't it almost the same as when you tie into an harness?

[@Govanification]

Look closely at a harness, the fabric tie-in points are super thick and reinforced, typically nylon and sometimes even have hard plastic inserts to reduce wear. A thin dyneema sling will wear through much faster than a harness.

[@1reklawm]

It's fine like that. Double legs twice the capacity. Adding a carabiner to the 2 leg to rope connection be best.

[@Cardsandstoagies]

Explain the difference between fixing a line like that and a harness!

[@kenferrin7350]

It’s amazing how strong that dyneema is.

[@m2rsvp]

I would use a six inch piece of fresh 1" tubular webbing, on the sliding X where the F8 is rubbing, not taped, to allow inspection. That's just me. Not advice. 😊

[@aggamemnon666]

Slightly fine for once.

[@ianrogers2872]

Use a super8/bunny ears instead!

[@paulgaras2606]

I am confused why you’d want to do that tho

[@pierreolsson588]

Fixing lines on bigwalls to save gear. I have done it, but only for a couple of days.

[@pappafritto]

@@markpell8979what’s a “runner” here?

[@pappafritto]

@@markpell8979 okay i see. We have 15-20 meters of 6mm expendable rope for that purpose (for any purpose in fact)

[@pentachronic]

@@pierreolsson588 Bunny ears direct into carabiners at anchor points ? You saved a sling and a potential hazard.

[@mattrogers6184]

No, 3 baskets and a shackle. It would be ideal if ropes had an engineered eyelet with a plastic blunter on the inside…

[@colereece3902]

It seems you could just use a static anchor rather than a self equalizing and be fine. Someone correct me if I’m wrong.

[@user-ik4tb9lf8t]

like to see a bowline on a bite or french in this configuration without the slings

[@offimoo9995]

How about a bowline?

[@gregoryfoster2547]

not something I would do often and I might keep track of the slings used in that situation.

[@Patrick-nl4zp]

Maybe tie a BFK haha

[@pappafritto]

In my opinion, in general NOTHING would ever happen because there is no rope on rope friction especially if you’re aware of this and don’t move the rope sideways. But anyways the system is not the one I’d use having just a carabiner though

[@iamfuckingyourwaifuandther2743]

Yea dude, if you think about it in basic physics principles we are using frictionless ropes, so the real world doesn't apply.

[@SailingAquamarine]

So, why would you do that? Well i suppose you could argue that it gives an even load between the anchors and would only move when there is no load? Or maybe you only have one sling on your belt 😞

[@PAClimber]

Just add a locker

[@julietgolf3331]

Beal escaper is rope on rope in a static load. And we both know it bomber

[@lucluc5976]

Is bfk big f#%kin knot?

[@harlanstockman5703]

Extremely unrealistic conditions.

[@jameslochhead5950]

I think it safe enough, but I can’t see a scenario where it would be necessary There’s definitely better options with the same amount of kit In fact, there’s options that are actually safer which require less kit You could just use a bunny is figure 8, and eliminate the sling in Tiley and it would be redundant because one line of the knot could get cut

[@chrisrecord1975]

There’s a universal way to do things people.😑 just learn the systems and quit being lazy and maybe you won’t end up a grease spot at the base of the crag.

[@hightalenttraining7546]

How 2 (maybe) not die... 🤣

[@davidtorres8396]

Carabiners are like 10 dollars though…

[@geothr33]

I don’t even know what a BFK is

[@AlexHarvey1980]

Does experiment, ignores results in conclusion.

[@Frostbiker]

A single experiment doesn't prove much, especially when lives are on the line.

[@ronl7131]

Not recommended.

[@Zogg1281]

I would want to be the idiot that tries this out in the real world. Your test only showed that it wouldn't break in an environment that doesn't introduce movement into the system. With someone hanging off that setup, they'll be moving around enough to literally where through that sling in somewhere between a few seconds and, if they're lucky, a few minutes........ hopefully, they'll be close enough to the floor when it fails 😅

[@johngo6283]

Yes, bad.

[@nathanielglavurdic4214]

Sheet bend is a lot more practical???

[@edover51315]

I feel like you're over-cautiously not honest about results. It seems safe to me from this test. Why would you not use this multiple times? Any data to support?