No HOT or COLD AIR on the RR Silver Spirit - WHY? PART 21 of CAN I DIY FIX a ROLLS ROYCE

[@AttilaTheHun333333]

Never would have thought that the series would be this entertaining. Thanks Vince, you’re doing a great job on the car.

[@marcushull12]

Rule of thumb is check the fuse then the relay before anything else .

[@Mulberrysmile]

Yes, but he wouldn’t have found that cracked solder joint if he hadn’t checked the board, so it wasn’t wasted time.

[@agladman194]

I began watching your videos when one of your Rolls-Royce videos appeared in my recommendations, and I've been hooked ever since. Even my wife is really enjoying watching now, and we both really enjoy your optimism and that you clearly enjoy what you're doing. Keep up the great work and thank you.

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks Alan, I'm really happy you're both watching them👍

[@Mickwild562]

As a professional engineer myself, to see a guy like you fixing a old classic car with no experience whatsoever is a dream to view. Im more nuts and bolts rather than electrics, but just by methodically thinking about it you get to find the fault. I wouldn't have had a clue where to start after the fuse so good on you Vincent for your simple thought process and ingenuity. Can't wait to see it all finished and you driving it. We'll done and keep them coming vince 👍.

[@HavingFunRepairs]

Nicely done Vince! Enjoyed this one and watching you repair that last component.

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks Shawn, this one was one of my favorite episodes 👍👍

[@promasterthegamer523]

@@Mymatevince Nice What will you fix next in part 22

[@BikeyBekkers]

I remember as a kid in the early 80's, my dad got a second hand silver shadow. He was given a book of Rolls Royce facts by the dealer. One fact I've always remembered was, the air con unit in the shadow would cost you more that a brand new mini metro.

[@gordonburns8731]

That's the risk of owning a Roller! Surely in the 80s there were pattern parts available.

[@paulcresswell2279]

I used to work on them. The hydraulics were the problem. If the braking or suspension system went down you would end up living in a mini metro.

[@TheDefpom]

@19:33 Those white bits that you resoldered the pads on are fuses, lift the ICs and reseat them, and gently use your fibreglass brush on the edge connectors, they often need a gentle clean, even though they are gold plated.

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks Scott, I wasn't sure what component they were👍

[@promasterthegamer523]

@@Mymatevince When is part 22 coming out

[@colinfielder6695]

I'm thinking that your going to be so proud of what you've done to this car and spent so much time and emotion that you will keep it in the end, and may I say very justified! loving this series Vince

[@timvangenechten5258]

I waited to see this video because I expected not to like it much. But seeing you figure out on your own what a relay does and how it works, was so wonderful that I think this ended up being my favorite episode so far. Nice one Vince.

[@aquatics117]

I managed to replace the internals of a toilet and replace a door lock this weekend Vince! Never would of even attempted it before I started watching your videos.

[@robmurg]

One tip: Normally no need to extract those blade type fuses to check them. They have exposed contacts on the back that you can get your meter probes on in-situ and check very quickly.

[@gower1973]

Upvote this I was going to tell him a few times now.

[@soopahfly82]

With all the corrosion he's finding in the wires, all that's going to do is tell you that the fuse is OK. The action of removing and re-fitting the fuse can be enough to clean the contacts enough to make it work.

[@timowallin8020]

YES but when fuse holder has green inside you are busted... But then again Doing the SAME on the part you want to WORK is priceless. What i mean is normally, all parts need positive and negative to work. Well wish one is missing?

[@barriebooth4159]

@@soopahfly82 0ll

[@fred35thomas]

i am following these with avid interest, i used to be an electronic fault finder, switch mode power supplies are fun to play with, but i look at cars for fun, i cant wait to see it going back together

[@FennecTECH]

noise at 1:18 is interference from a cell phone receiving a call (or text). To stop that get your phone at least a few feet from your camera while filming.

[@JariSchroderus]

It’s the burner phone in the car. 😂

[@Ditcha1]

Any reason why you would not give the fan motor 12 volt to check its working before doing any other investigation?

[@thehillza]

I work at Rolls Royce and I have to say its cool to see someone working on an older one.

[@Brianck1971]

I work at NASA

[@luukie0000]

I worked for Santa for the last 150 years :)

[@Davidsmithisyourdad]

I own the Rolls-Royce company

[@coryengel]

I am a Rolls-Royce, and let me tell you-typing is a bitch.

[@mercuraz]

"Fan-tastic!" I see what you did there 😏. Great job Vince! One of my favourite in the series so far!

[@dodgydruid]

I bought an absolute diamond little kit from Aliexpress, a DC-DC Buck Convertor with LED display, couple quid and to use it I can put in any voltage say from an old power brick and use the pot on it and LED display to set its output voltage making for a seriously convenient cheap bench power supply and even good for a car as you just hook up a set o' leads from battery and then use it say to inject voltage directly into a circuit you want to test. Runs approx 4-40 volts and is pretty accurate less than .1v disparity, gives out a nice square signal too very clean output.

[@ivanfernyhough3851]

Good job vince,dont no if you no but the fans are on a delay.if the heater is set to hot but the coolant is cold the fans wont blow until theres enough heat in the coolant.thought id just mention that as nobody else seems to have.

[@Mymatevince]

I didn't know that Ivan. I just thought it was slow to react. That's really clever so it doesn't blow cold air into the cabin. I like it👍👍👍

[@rydermike33]

Another great piece of work Vince. Well done. The old RR is coming together nicely. (I've certainly been pressing my multi-meter into use since watching your videos.)

[@jonathansharret4900]

Loving this series. So much fun to watch and so interesting. I just binged all 21 videos and now I have no more to watch! Something to consider given how many electrical issues you've encountered so far: maybe open every connector and spray contact cleaner and/or sand to ensure a good connection and maybe just check every relay. Doing all of this up front might take care of a whole slew of known and unknown issues in one go (though maybe it won't be as much "fun" as troubleshooting each issue separately).

[@andyfairman7812]

Agreed. I was even going to suggest packing dielectric grease into all the connectors which should keep any further corrosion from occurring in the future.

[@porkiepie1997]

Thank you again. I have a 1988 Spirit and I’m learning so much.

[@ianmccormick2670]

The numbers relate to German DIN numbers. Terminal 30 is permanent live, when on terminal 30 connects to 87 when off 30 connects to 87a. Terminal 85 is negative side of the relay coil and 86 is the positive side of the relay coil. The diode stops back emf when the relay coil is disconnected to avoid damaging micro electronics.

[@LegolaoLP]

FANtastic as he repairs the fan..u sir have won a new fan

[@dereknielsen6530]

Great video Vince. Love watching this journey. Heads up on the AC. There should be a low pressure switch that will not allow the ac clutch to engage if there is not enough refrigerant in the system. So you'll have to check the pressure in the system if it's not working. As well it may have R12 refrigerant in the system that I believe your not able to get anymore. The system may need to be converted to r 134a or the new r1234 stuff. That's north America though, may be different on your side of the pond. Hope that's helpful. Again thanks for the videos. Probably seems like your talking to yourself all the time but we're listening.

[@Ragnar8504]

Same here. R12 is still available in some obscure markets but not in Europe. This being from the 1980s I bet you're right it's still on R12.

[@Mymatevince]

I'll have to look into that. Hopefully there will be info on this on Google or a RR forum. As long as the heater is working that will do for the time being. I rarely use A/C but that may make an interesting video once it (fingers crossed) on the road 👍👍👍👍

[@Dg-zj6jo]

you say your not a mechanic i think your better than most you make a great teacher brilliant attitude your dad brought you up brilliant buy him a pint from me .

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks DG, will do👍🍻

[@Dg-zj6jo]

great drinking mug cheers

[@wisher21uk]

Change the relays out they’re only £5 Well done on the fault finding Vince 👍

[@daz41262010]

what a FAN-tastic fault finding repair video Vince well found :)

[@shaunbrown1402]

Great job Vince, but with relays, once they have splashed the contacts, they need to be replaced. Going to have a hell of a load of problems in the future. Keep up the good work bud.

[@bobnashnash7965]

Great video, might be worth investing in a power probe as multi meters have there limitations. The relay are standard DIN 85 and 86 are coil windings 30 is battery positive and 87 is output to the unit. Regards Bob Oxford Vehicle Electronics

[@devttyUSB0]

FAN-tastic, you said it yourself! :D I condemned the resistor block at the start of the video, as i've seen those fail in numerous car mechanic videos as well! It is slowly coming back to life!

[@Mymatevince]

Ha, I didn't realise I said it like that until editing the video 😂 Cheers devtty 👍

[@promasterthegamer523]

What will you try fix on the rolls royce next

[@Popeyes66]

You did it again Vince.

[@thomoism]

Yet another great RR video. Found your commentary great. And I can follow what your saying and doing. JUST LOOKING FORWARD TO SEEING THE NEXT UP DATE. REGARDS PETER T WALES UK.

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks Peter 👌

[@mrbussey]

Vince! You're absolutely the fault finding GOD!!! I would have bet money it was the ACU computer had failed, but you didn't give up and BOOM! Fixed! Great job, bud!!

[@Mymatevince]

Haha, nice one Jim, got there eventually buddy 👍

[@pauldavies6037]

Another great logical fix Vince always useful to swap relays round to do some checks

[@maxz8807]

1:40 wow that's accessible. On my car to access the blower motor I have to remove the entire dash haha

[@SudosFTW]

Generally the rule of thumb is to not reuse relays when they go faulty in that exact manner because once it gets carboned up, no amount of sanding or anything will make it "right" again. it WILL fail as all relays do, and it's safer/easier to replace it with a new relay. Because of how essential that one board is to the comfort levels of the car I do think from a repair standpoint that you should replace the few electrolytics on that board with some automotive-rated polymer caps from newark electronics, and order yourself some proper automotive relays from the same place for in the engine bay. Honestly I'd say to replace ALL the relays because of their age and then keep the working old ones that aren't the painted one as spares in the glove box or in a utility box in the boot where you'd keep a set of tools for the car and such, such as a cheap toolset and a cheap multimeter plus a spare set of batteries for that. Doing my own research it seems the equivalent part number to the Bosch would be 1432782-1 from TE Connectivity for an SPST 12vDC 30A relay. They're a bit expensive but the pinout looks to be the same. Suggestively you should just buy a single one and test that out, and then when finances allow for it, to get the rest replaced at a later date... Those relays are paramount to get right for the sake of key car functions, and while you can get used relays off ebay for a song, there's no guarantee they'll have the same fault or not. it's a dangerous game.

[@paulcresswell2279]

Wise words

[@christianverryckt1342]

Wise indeed, especially with old EM pinball or Jukebox.. A real Burnishing file. Older the better

[@thomasives7560]

Automotive relays are a consumable item, the contacts are plated with a thin layer of (probably) plated silver that gradually disappears due to operation, leaving exposed copper or brass metal of the base material. Once the layer is gone, a person *can* clean off the oxidized copper/brass metal in the contact, but it will quickly return to an oxidized state and stop working. One more caveat: since poorly operating relays present a high-resistance connection, there is a FIRE RISK due to the relay trying to pass lots of current through bad contacts. Burning down a car from saving $10 on a relay is not worth it.

[@dmcars147]

Another great fix! On mine, I replaced all the underhood relays as a precaution. Magically, my AC and heat started working even better. Apparently, there's a voltage drop across those fan speed relays, so if not working properly, you lose fan speed. I added a link from your youtube to the rolls/bentley forum...these are must watch videos.

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks Douglas for the voltage drop tip and the forum link. I hope my unskilled methods especially the paint attempt don't upset any of the owners too much 👍👍👍

[@pirateatfourty]

my 1974 rolls did the same thing it had been parked for years, i called rolls royce and the mechanic said to replace the relays i did every has worked fine for many years,, all the work you did took 3 times longer than making a phone call and going to the auto parts store and buying all new relays and i never took my dash apart. i look for simple fixes.and i also replaced the a/c pump and condenser and dryer all were chevy parts since r 12 is no longer available this was 7 years ago no issues

[@martinbyfleet3898]

This is my all time favourite project. I love all the fixes on my favourite car, it’s just total pleasure from start to finish.

[@biglaurens]

I'm a bit jealous that you have the time, patience, tools and skills to undertake this project Vince :) Love the videos!!

[@instahawk8422]

That really was a FANtastic fix

[@harrowtiger]

Good work Vince.

[@charlescallea1759]

Keep them coming! Really appreciate your work!!

[@dannyhtheretrogamingmaster9548]

Good repair there mate, any electrical repair is usually the fuse, switch or the relay as they are the ones usually under the most though the wires and boards can have wear and tear on them as well due to weak cables or corrosion.

[@jbsmith86]

If you have a system completely off always check a relay by switching them. I had guessed that was it early on in the video. They frequently go out and it's a super easy thing to check first off.

[@Kyleinasailing]

I think anyone who works professionally on these cars would have guessed the relay from the start. But, really nice and interesting.

[@pantha007]

Vince I have heard about a Massive AutoJumble sale from Domanic ( the one on the TV show the repair shop) apparently it's "biggest outdoor sale of motoring items this side of the Atlantic" you may find some nice parts for the Rolls Royce there 😁😁

[@pantha007]

Forget to say have a look for beaulieu International Autojumble

[@NeoJ4K3]

Really love these videos, Thanks Vince, Keep up the fine work

[@abucketofelves]

As many of the commenters suggest you could just replace all the fuses and relays in the car and fix a bunch of potential problems at once, but where's the fun in that? It's a lot more educational and entertaining to fix things one by one, that way you know exactly what has caused the problem and have learnt a bit more about how things work along the way.

[@lordperry321]

44:37 FAN-tastic haha. Well done mate. I am always checking for a new video and I really enjoyed this one

[@Brewskii2117]

A most satisfying troubleshooting video! :)

[@Jungleroomreptiles]

The first things one usually checks are the fuses and the relays, Its a no brainer

[@exploringtrends139]

Has anyone noticed roughly at 2:18 there's a spark from the nut the the lettering when he starts to mess with cables just a heads up

[@eadweard.]

Couldn't see a sausage.

[@Mymatevince]

Yes, looks like it is going up diagonally from the 'E' on the rocker cover where Rolls Royc'E' is written. Like one of the rods in an earlier video that drops down the screen. Really weird. Well spotted 👍👍👍

[@wisher21uk]

Looks like a spark plug spark of from the bolt on the suspension strut closest to the engine how strange

[@griswold67]

Really enjoying this series of videos Vince.

[@jonathanmartin3375]

Another beauty of a fix!

[@Tokaisho1]

It's good you found and fixed that cold solder joint as well, which might have caused intermittent gremlins

[@wayne3790]

Very well done Vince, you’re a genius!!! 👌👏👏👏

[@yambo59]

Also car fan motors usually have a resistor array to get the various speeds, the arrays burn out and have to be replaced and as said below relays should be checked not only the contacts can arc and burn but the coil that operates it can burn out as well -- even though you can get relays working again the best long term solution is to replace them outright to get the longest repair life

[@rfr653]

Good job mate 👍

[@williamgreen5575]

Check the back EMF diode on that relay. If it's faulty, that would cause the sparks that tarnished/ burned the contacts. You mentioned that each relay has a diode in it, that's what they are for. The diode will be in parallel with the coil

[@digihorse6730]

Unless it’s already been said. Dont forget that the relays were changeover type. So you need to check for continuity between common and one contact unpowered and common and the other when powered. It may use both contacts in the circuit, like the powered windows did. Also use the meter on resistance it will show if the contact is making but has a bad connection (high contact resistance) due to corrosion.

[@GHOOGLEMALE]

Haha - I felt his joy when that motor whirred up

[@vampiremuffinman7183]

Auto 101, if the fuses are good, swap a good relay in to see if that fixes it. Great video for all of the other probably fault tracing, though. 😸

[@trippy_boxer_dog2170]

wow this is a real result! great job bud, also its going to be really sad when you run out of fixes, really have been enjoying this whole series and love the way you diagnose everything.

[@mlight6275]

terminals, numbers, diagrams and pins on relay generally show 2 pins are trigger coil, and if a 4 pin is a switch, if 5 pin is a 2 way switch.

[@robertoneill1979]

Every day's a learning day. Great job Vince 👍

[@sp523]

Very interesting video. I liked seeing your troubleshooting technique!

[@realmachine]

It's always the last one! 😂😂

[@djwarren5081]

This guy has the patience of a Saint.

[@eskimojulie]

I really enjoyed that 😀

[@SDogo]

Maybe a bit late, but, since in every episode you are chasing after random cables in the car... maybe you should invest in a cheap wire tracker. You put the emitter in one side, and turn on the receiver to check the cables around the car. When you locate the cable, you will hear a quite loud tone (those things are quite used in telcos to install phone lines).

[@Meowwentthedino]

Loving this series!

[@matthewmaidment8464]

Great video Vince, well done

[@howtowithelizabeth7513]

Does it have a blend door actuator it could be busted and the little flaps in the ductwork is stuck shut not allowing air to flow properly or the blower motor (it it’s components) is faulty

[@gordonburns8731]

Well done, Vince! Keep it up, matey.

[@wraithman1870]

The reason your HVAC does not deliver either from an initial start is due to the 44 deg C sensor located on the thermostat tower. The only function that will work is defrost because it's a safety thing. Pull the 2 wire lead to the sensor to get results and eventually, you have to replace it. The RR thought was no heat or A/C until the car is at operating temp for either hot or cold. This is a known issue.

[@karenharvey7197]

You can fix anything! Great video.

[@rdom4256]

Great work Vince, been waiting for a rolls royce repair video all week, my fix has been met ;-)

[@PeteChrichard]

Great fix this one Vince 👍👍

[@canalboating]

Well Done Vince, another job jobbed

[@hotwings9382]

At least now you know, fuse then check relays. Then power. Continuity will set you on a wild goose chase

[@GarlandTexasSpotter2024]

Nice job working on the rolls Royce spirit keep up your nice work! 👍🏻🔨🛠️⚒️🪚🪓🧰⚙️

[@kkofcity]

Now i know where i have to look for, Thanks for it!

[@craigbourne4792]

What i use when testing things like that are a small pair of crocodile clips with shrink wrap on to hold the cables in place, and you then have both hands free ...... shrink wrap on the metal teeth to stop them sorting with anything else.

[@craigbourne4792]

should say shorting lol.

[@renataavgeri1132]

Isn't that so wierd... i have been hearing it for a few episodes now when you get the camera close to the panel it messes up with the sound signal like the old phones close to older tvs...

[@DJKC]

Came to comments to say the same. Its been many years since I've heard that sound.

[@chuckymell]

I love your video's they are great

[@sprint955st]

"Punched in OK?" That's BT talking right there

[@Mymatevince]

😂👍

[@Martin.Wilson]

Personally, I would have hooked up a 12v power supply directly to to fan motor. This would immediately determine whether it was switch or motor. No sense going through hours of switch diagnosis if the motor is shot.

[@dodgydruid]

Its funny about the esd strap, I have worked on computers and electronics since the 1970's and never used one in my life whether on the Commodore Pet which was my first ever repair, my ZX80 Sinclair kit, the 8088 and 8086's all components far more susceptible to static than todays stuff and never had a discharge. For mains driven devices I just earth myself off on the mains lead or the chassis of the device as a matter of habit, if I need to I can just earth myself off a kitchen tap if I think I have angry pixies building up in me but never had a failure from not doing so either and from memory the only things I knew were attacked were early erasable ROMs and when was the last time you saw one unpatched?

[@precupflorin5610]

Why is the rear wheel arch is unfixed in this video?

[@renataavgeri1132]

He doesnt release them in order as he films them

[@geirendre]

Those relays are standard types, same used in lots of cars, so it's easy to replace them. No need to reuse old worn out relays.

[@fishandreptileinfo]

Great fix Vince, I could watch your RR fault finding all night.

[@walterpauls7418]

Hey did you get the the cold air to work I’m in the same process of redoing a 88 rolls and kind haveing fun with it cuz it don’t really new parts just unplug and clean and put back lol

[@midinotes]

I was getting a bit worried you might have had a jolt from the back emf of those relay coils holding the wires on them! Just something to be cautious with when holding bare wires on any energised coil! Fan-tastic fix though 😁

[@digihorse6730]

There’s an internal diode across the coil to short out that back emf.

[@michaelthomas3646]

I was surprised for a car this age that it wasn't a burned out motor/siezed motor for the fan, as I was expecting, then would have tested the leads as you done, dunno whether any logic for not testing the passenger side motor, but probably would have came back with no voltage as well looking back now I know the 2nd place I would have checked is the relay, but would have done a circuit test between the motor cables and the relay as well if it couldn't be fixed by replacing the relay. while a fuse is a common fault, unless a circuit is over powered like a siezed fan, it is very unlikely to have blown, and on a fan circuit would be one of the last places to check, even though symptoms would be simular to no voltage at the fan, and as you haven't heard the fuse blow then I can understand your logic by going to the fuse first. but most commonly if it is 15 amps or more for a fuse in a car it is less likely to blow without some serious fault like a siezed motor. I have replaced loads of 5 amp, and 10 amp fuses over the years, but can't say the same for any higher, not sure if I replaced the one for the fan when my vauxhall nova's fan motor seized, as still worked on the higher 2 settings, but wouldn't work on the slow setting. so while you need to check fuses anyway it isn't very common for anything above 10 amps to blow.

[@michaelthomas3646]

but my test points in this situation would be the motor for voltage, the motor to the relay, the relay to fusebox, then the switch, then fusebox to switch, not forgetting the fuse and relay at the appropriate times when removed, as then would have had the whole wiring checked in one go as well if the relay and fuse came back good. while yes could be a connector block, you could illiminate each section of the wiring, and if the break was between the fusebox, and the relays then go searching for a splitter block.

[@andrewthompsonuk1]

I think this series is very interesting. The Rolls-Royce is not built like other modern cars, even for its time. I suspect you fixed some potential failures along the way.

[@AlexSoto-u2m]

Thanks i was having the same problem on my 88 silver spur

[@Denisstrix]

I like this Series wanna See this car on the Road again

[@richardhemingway6084]

That diode in the relay, is to stop back EMF getting to the electronics. In old analogue cars, it didn't matter, and relays didn't have them. But, if the relay is energised by a semiconductor (transistor or IC, in newer cars), when the field in the relay coil is suddenly de-energised, it produces a spike of opposite polarity, sometimes several hundred volts. Electronics don't like it and go 'pooof!'. So it is important, when testing, to get the polarity right, across the coil. If it's the wrong way round the power will flow through the diode, show a short circuit and could give a false failure indication. When tracing powers and grounds, I prefer to use a light bulb. A digital multimeter can show a voltage through high resistance, like a bad connection, or burnt wire, giving false positive results. A bulb will prove that it can pass useful current. Multimeters are great for measuring specific voltages, like Alternator outputs, voltage regulators and sensors etc.

[@dodgydruid]

BTW treat yourself to a bronze Tandorio, I bought one last week and it arrived today pure CUSN28, sapphire crystal, Seiko NH35 movement, C3 Superluminova lume on dial and hands, decent rugged strap and a screwdown crown giving it 200m water resist too and its based on the WW2 Omega with the white and cream differing markings and a broad arrow... £99 on ebay, I went for the sterile one as Tandorio sounds a bit take-away'ish to me :)