NO MORE SQUARE RULE FOR TIMBER FRAMING

This video will show you how to dress a timber called "Mill Rule" this is an alternative to square rule, it's what we do in our shop and find that it is simpler, faster and finishes with nicer joinery.
Give it a try

[@neilaleksandrov2655]

Finally a video with actual instructional info about timber framing! Thank You!

[@efklijzing]

Thank you sir, it is truly a treasure to find people on youtube that take the time and effort, to share their skills, wisdom and knowledge so kind and generous. Thank you very much, an inspiration. Sincerely yours, Ernst, Amsterdam, the Netherlands.

[@finley888888]

Very enjoyable and informative video! Love to see how to take the twist out. Hope one day to have the opportunity to work with such immense timber.

[@mattmoore1311]

I like your practical methodology. I'm an old carpenter. I've only worked on one timber frame house though. I'm getting ready to add two timber frame porches to my house though. You're the 2nd guy now I've seen turn the planer knob while planing. I gotta say it works. The shim to square up is a smart thing, and new to me. I'll be watching your other videos.

[@leekhang5181]

You're a good teacher! You make things look simple.

[@Fight2BeFreeNeverGiveUp]

You were a pleasure to watch a true professional with great timber skills. I hope the youngsters are following your footsteps in this skilful trade.

[@christianreed7118]

Thank u for taking the time to share this technique. Good video overall.

[@Parkermillwright]

Really appreciate all your videos. Thanks for doing these!

[@finley888888]

For those not aware of what is happening with the level when checking for twist at the beginning: (I think) man is taking a reading of the level at one end, perhaps even making a mark of the bubble position, then checking the reading at the other end. If the bubble position is identical at both ends it is confirmed that those two checked positions are co-planar or in plane or flat without twist. If the bubble was in a different position at the second check, it would indicate a twist present.

[@swingarmer]

Nominal sizing within your timber, reference faces and other traditional methods taught in books by guy's like Jack Sobon are worth reading. I built the house in his book "Build a Classic Timber-Framed House" Everything you need for success is in there using traditional methods. I kept my timbers rough sawn and like the look of them. I built the the house in 2001. I used a Makita 6 3/4" inch planer a 8 3/4 inch saw a hand saw chisels a manual beam boring machine. If you are building for yourself it's very hard to justify a 12" planer. That being said I enjoyed the video. I remember there used to be a magazine I subscribed to called joiner's Quarterly, put out by Fox Maple timber frames. Great magizine!

[@aidanbanfield4110]

I'd love to see your technique for taking out the twist in a beam ☺

[@picklestimberframes4808]

I'll get on it

[@randyrife4199]

The shim trick was genius - thanks for this video.

[@TheBlazad]

Thankyou , great instruction. Best wishes

[@thomasparker1511]

Great informative video thank you. I would definitely like to see how to deal with a twist please. Videos like yours with the experience you have are so invaluable to a progressive world. Thanks again

[@timberdoodles4647]

Popped this on just before commenting on FB. Nothing wrong with another trick in the tool box. Good info, and I like your technique for plucking the chalk line just enough pluck to get a line on the timber no three foot in the air pull on the sting, and pop the excess off before the line is set down. . Less chance of the string striking off. Similar technique to snap lining a timber, using shims under levels and squares to get the the givens and take the wind out of a timber then square rule can be applied with out all the planing. Snap Line Square Rule. if the timber is really wonky. Mostly I get by with edge square rule, there are precautions to look for.

[@vaultsjan]

I think YT is missing good video on snap line square rule...

[@meatman655]

Ditto on the twist video. Thanks for the squaring video. Very informative.

[@picklestimberframes4808]

Glad it was helpful! just posted the twist video

[@4by4squared88]

Really enjoyed this.:thanks.

[@efklijzing]

now I know, and that is nothing but amazing.. thank you

[@Dalecarleton]

great video thank you please make more

[@Brockway700]

Wish I knew about this a year ago! Thanks for sharing the wisdom, much appreciated!

[@picklestimberframes4808]

Glad it was helpful!

[@j.m.castilla7150]

Great job, thanks for your videos

[@picklestimberframes4808]

Glad you like them!

[@supermo26]

Have you ever had a beam that kept its twist or bow or hook after you took off material?

[@Subsonic-cd2en]

Do you frame with green lumber? If so, how do you account for wood movement after your joinery has been cut? It's perfectly square and straight right now, but what about after it dries a little? Seriously asking because I want to build a small timber frame cabin but it will take a few months to get all the pieces cut out. I'm worried things will warp on me during that process.

[@makeeverydaycinematic]

Wax the ends and stain the sides with oil. Slows down that drying process.

[@Pizza_boy07]

Absolute gold

[@chrisharvey9688]

Where did you guys get the planer shims? They seem alot more useful than having to switch to my smaller planer to isolate 1 specific side of a beam.

[@bigbeamstimberframes770]

Nice instruction. I use a similar method. I even built a special set of tripod saw horses for the job so I could plane in both directions (stepping around the timber to do so) without tripping over bigger horses. Still, it is a workout.

[@Off-Grid]

Would have been cool to build our off-grid home with timber like this. Maybe we can still incorporate some as we're just about to pour the slab.

[@picklestimberframes4808]

You definitely still can

[@Off-Grid]

@@picklestimberframes4808 I plan to do some beams in the living room. Will have to think about it some more.

[@hpw59]

what is the species of wood you are using......looks like spruce/fir

[@daleorthman]

A twist and shout video would nicely benefit your video series. Thank you in advance!

[@picklestimberframes4808]

Thanks for the idea!

[@asayero]

where can i get those shims?

[@elricm13]

Yes, let’s see the twist removal, thx

[@jimimac866]

Awesome vid. Certainly interested in removing twist. What are the advantages/disadvantages of the Mafels vs Makita 12" planers, I looked at both, I'm sure the old adage you get what you pay for is true but is this tool longevity in a shop environment vs casual or is it quality of knives/options on the Mafels? Any helps appreciated before I commit to 1 vs other. Cheers from PEI for an awesome alt to square rule, I really like the starting perfect philosophy!!!

[@picklestimberframes4808]

hey there, to be honest I haven't used the Makita very much at all. However one thing I do know is that there is a weight difference between the two. The maffle is a lot lighter and more affordable. I believe it's more than half the price and seems to have plenty of power. With that being said I think the Maffel is better built and will last longer in the long run. Cheer!

[@jeanfrancoisbrodeur]

The makita is underpowered because it runs on 120v where the Mafell runs on 240v When planing a beam, you need all the torque you can have.

[@Allan79789]

Cool.

[@davewilmoth2444]

Use a string to check twist.

[@НиколайАлексеевич-в6к]

11:25🎉 много времени ушло на поиск этого кадра. Самое понятное объяснение.

[@danielscullion3422]

George Best is still alive

[@James_T_Kirk_1701]

This guy gives me Rob Cosman vibes. Don’t know why.

[@gary24752]

I am surprised no one has taken a thickness planner and mounted to be be operated it on a rail system like a band saw.

[@picklestimberframes4808]

They have! Wood miser has one on the market. It's on my wish list! kzbin.info/www/bejne/nqqxmWZvpLqhrKc

[@gary24752]

@@picklestimberframes4808 I am talking about a small thickness planer. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qXSyiWqXjp1qh6M

[@johnm.515]

@@picklestimberframes4808 I have seen the MP 100 in action and it is amazine

[@timgiles9413]

Makita is $1,979.00 WOW !!!

[@thomasschafer7268]

😢😢 Ja 3 für 1. Aber trotzdem hat jeder den teureren mafell. Der kleinere makita 1806B ist dafür sehr verbreitet.👍🇩🇪

[@timbarry5080]

The Makita is half the price?! I thought they were about 2500 bucks. That one is 5g?! . Yikes

[@whirled_peas]

I made a planer for making square beams up to 12.5” which runs on a rail. Much faster and accurate than this, sub mm accurate

[@thomasschafer7268]

😅😅dafür gibt es Dicktenhobelmaschinen. Stationäre. Große und keine handmaschinen

[@whirled_peas]

​@@thomasschafer7268 I don't think you understood me really. My planer makes S4S timber quickly and accurately, plus it was fun to make and cost about $500 in materials. It's not just a thickness planer, it makes faces square too. It's built on a Logosol F2 and uses the inherent accuracy and adjustability of that system. There really is nothing like it out there, other than Logosol's log moulding kit but it doesn't have a micro-adjustment.