No Solution 5.12a X | Headpointing in The Gunks

[@Skillsdatkillls]

Your channel is one of my new favorites. Absolutely love how you cover everything so well and climb such unique routes. The gear breakdowns and placement shots are also so incredible to see. Keep it up!

[@headpointhandbook]

Thank you so much! The style is so niche and I think it's so interesting to break it down for people.

[@ljam445]

Recently found your channel and have been going through the backlog of videos. Just wanted to say that holy hell dude your videos are top notch. The breakdown of the climb, visuals of the placements and story telling is on point. Thanks for putting so much effort into these videos, they're fantastic. Also great job on the send! You have unbelievably strong head game and patience to wait until you know it's right to climb something on lead.

[@headpointhandbook]

Thank you! I'm really happy to hear you appreciate it. I often feel like the filming is an afterthought to the climbing and my wife kinda cobbles it all together, so it really is nice to get such high praises from you. There's certain routes you don't have any option other than patience, and this is definitely one of those routes haha.

[@johns3106]

I really enjoyed this breakdown. Most videos like this are full of “bro-brah gnarliness”, but this was refreshingly devoid of any hyperbole. I spent a few seasons in the Gunks many years ago, and the closeups of the rock and features takes me right back! While I was never (or ever will be) a 5.12 climber, your calm descriptions of the process makes it seem so easy!😅

[@headpointhandbook]

Thanks man! Really trying to demystify the process in a not-annoying-KZbin-influencer way haha

[@adamhammershoy9094]

Really cool different take on this headpoint video. Hearing how you work through the process of putting together an X rated route. Video editing getting better and better each new video that comes out. Climbing with you has increased my head game substantially.

[@headpointhandbook]

Always psyched to climb, when’s your next guest appearance?

[@jesselinkhorn295]

love these videos. Makes me want to find and headpoint all the hard, rarely traveled lines in the RRG

[@headpointhandbook]

Get after it! Such a rewarding style of climbing.

[@ginotitone6968]

I love the video description, the whole thing reminds me of that feeling I got when we were climbing and you told me we were “all good, just don’t fall” and when I got there we were on two rusty old jingly spikes pounded into the crack in 1964.

[@headpointhandbook]

One of my fondest memories. Thanks for the support dude

[@CloveHitchCory]

This channel is 🤟 Love how you explained your process in the beginning.

[@headpointhandbook]

TRUST THE PROCESS

[@whatscreenname]

6:20 He…deleted…the video??? 😳😳😳

[@benwolpert]

Sometimes, i feel like people dont have a good frame of reference to really understand climbing. Some only have Alex Honnold’s documentary to relate to climbing with. So they just see climbing as being synonymous with death, adrenaline, daring, etc. I really enjoyed your disclaimer at the beginning because it more accurately paints a picture for people to understand what climbing is in general, but definately for what you underwent in this climb specifically. There is sort of a commonality that one can find in climbers, musicians, athletes, and really anyone else on Earth. Fear. And the process of how to deal with it. An example i really like that was given by a professional pianist was this: If you walk on a sidewalk all day every day, it becomes second nature and you dont think about it. Now if you move that sidewalk to be between the roofs of two skyscrapers with nothing to protect a fall on either side, now all of a sudden, it seems different. Your mind may frame it as dangerous or impossible. Thats why i enjoy climbing and this video. There is something very complicated, but so simple about this process. In this case, the type of climbing you did engaged in this process. You broke it down into tolerable chunks. Realizing that doing this climb is not so different than climbs you do every day, it just seems impossible at first because there is such a huge risk. But if you can learn to frame it in your mind like the sidewalk example, you can really reduce and almost eliminate the fear. And that is really amazing to see what you and other people can do when they can reduce and eliminate fear to me. Amazing to watch how you tackled this process piece by piece, and eventually did it in one continuous push. (Applause)

[@headpointhandbook]

Thanks for the really thoughtful comment. I think part of my approach to climbing and to the channel in general is to really stress exactly what you are saying, but inspire people to push beyond what they thought possible of themselves, in a controlled and measured way. At least in the gunks, 12R is the majority of the harder leads, but 5.12 itself is very attainable for your average chuffer(and I'm certainly one of those!) and then pushing slightly further into 5.12R through the process of headpointing is a very rewarding and attainable goal. I want to demystify the process but stress that it is still dangerous and should not be taken lightly, so I appreciate that you appreciate it. Keep crushing!

[@LisaMichele]

Very cool video and a legit accomplishment to lead this! Thanks for sharing 🤙

[@headpointhandbook]

Thank you! I know a few others who have led it who fly under the radar. Glad you liked the video!

[@joshb693]

Absolutely awesome

[@DSVDSVDSV]

Why don't you climb on two ropes? It would really reduce the pendulum factor on the moves into the horizontal break.

[@headpointhandbook]

I’m not convinced it would because that gear off left is terrible, but I did consider it. Thankfully I don’t have to climb it again 😅

[@andrewhunter6536]

@@headpointhandbook It can reduce the fall if bad gear blows too since even a slight zig zag can be a good deal of extra rope on run out things. Half’s also have a lower impact force on the gear. I guess for other x rated routes you do they might be worth looking into

[@YellowAsphalt]

What’s the difference between never free soloing and climbing 5.9X sections

[@headpointhandbook]

I think, for me, it's the level of concentration it requires. A free solo is full concentration for the entire length of the climb with almost assured death. Whereas a "death fall" section of a route may only require you to lock-in for less than a minute before you are safe again.

[@kockarthur7976]

eric said yes solution 😎 nice vid mayn

[@headpointhandbook]

Thanks Arthur! Miss you 🥺

[@kevinhikes3132]

Good job

[@headpointhandbook]

Thank you!

[@brendanbouldering]

Never climbed in the gunks but i engoyed the breakdown

[@headpointhandbook]

Thank you!

[@danieldobrick8957]

Badass.

[@headpointhandbook]

Thanks dude 🤘🏻

[@glipquux]

almost British

[@headpointhandbook]

This route gets hard E7 according to E-grader 🫣