Is this the real life? Is this just fantasy? Caught in a landslide, no escape from reality Open your eyes, look up to the skies and see I'm just a poor boy, I need no sympathy Because I'm easy come, easy go Little high, little low Any way the wind blows doesn't really matter to me, to me Mama, just killed a man Put a gun against his head, pulled my trigger, now he's dead Mama, life had just begun But now I've gone and thrown it all away Mama, ooh, didn't mean to make you cry If I'm not back again this time tomorrow Carry on, carry on as if nothing really matters Too late, my time has come Sends shivers down my spine, body's aching all the time Goodbye, everybody, I've got to go Gotta leave you all behind and face the truth Mama, ooh (any way the wind blows) I don't wanna die I sometimes wish I'd never been born at all I see a little silhouetto of a man Scaramouche, Scaramouche, will you do the Fandango? Thunderbolt and lightning, very, very frightening me (Galileo) Galileo, (Galileo) Galileo, Galileo Figaro, magnifico But I'm just a poor boy, nobody loves me He's just a poor boy from a poor family Spare him his life from this monstrosity Easy come, easy go, will you let me go? بِسْمِ ٱللَّٰهِ No, we will not let you go (let him go) بِسْمِ ٱللَّٰهِ We will not let you go (let him go) بِسْمِ ٱللَّٰهِ We will not let you go (let me go) Will not let you go (let me go) Will not let you go (never, never, never, never let me go) No, no, no, no, no, no, no Oh, mamma mia, mamma mia

You talked about how you like to complete areas, how much of the trapps as a whole would you say you’ve done, and do you think you’d be able to complete a guidebook? I went there for the first time last weekend and walked the half an hour out to arrow and high e with my jaw on the floor the whole way , gawking at with 200+ feet of cliff on my left that never seemed to stop. It seemed like there was enough climbing for many lifetimes!

Great send Eric and a bold route for sure! It is my opinion that the style in which you climb a route is secondary to telling the truth as to how you accomplished it. Knee pad to aid the RP? Tell us. Using a coat hanger to fishhook a tiny nut on Diamond in the Rough? Tell us that ;) Pink pointed because you fell the first go and wanted to call it day but got back up the courage to lead with the advantage of time savings not placing gear? Cool with me. Was it fun and challenging? Great job! Arguing over the best style devolves into all these ridiculous and unjustifiable nuances because, after all, what we are doing is absurd anyway. How many people climb the easier second pitch to the top of the cliff to claim the full ascent of the route (as traditionally a route at the Gunks is not a route if it doesn't top out.) Not that you really need to climb the cliff to get to the top, as evidenced by all the casual Sunday hikers up on the Millbrook Ridge Trail enjoying the same view we struggle to, for far less risk! One thing I'd be interested in hearing is your opinion on the protection ratings on these climbs AFTER having the tremendous benefit of hanging around to sus out all the very best, precise gear placements. For example, after Mabrey's FFA on Thumb's Up I commented how it was certainly NOT an X-rated climb considering the gear he was able to plug in. I'd argue it looked PG-13 at best and not even R with the nest of 3 pieces he had at the crux. Fracchia commented that they would keep the rating at X because that is what it would be "to anyone attempting a ground up onsight of the route". Ground up, onsight being (in my opinion) the purest form you can really hope for in the silly game we play out there in the woods, this kind of made sense to me. The official protection rating being X for that reason, yet could be brought down to something safer with careful study of every inch of rock. I wonder what routes out there would still qualify as X under headpoint tactics? Rings of Saturn at Millbrook, likely, and many others there perhaps.

seeing a video of how the holds are and pro sits is really awesome, you dont get that content very often. Keep it up!

Congrats on that it looks truly frightening at the crux and the crux does seem to be independent so it is legit- when I was next to you in April while you were working this, it seemed like such a waste of time to me because literally for the first half it seems like you can just reach over to the holds on To Be or Not to Be. Seemed like such a squeeze job even for the Gunks… but watching this it does look like a cool thing I will never never do. Also is the Number Two you place the same one as ToBe? Couldn’t quite tell from the vid.

vVry cool congrats ! it looks like a great line. I need to try it. Like the double ropes, I think you fell it would have a better pull angle on the gear.

You don't have to answer to anyone for your ethics. Live your life, climb your climbs.

you cant just take the #3 out and plug it back in, because that would mean you would be carrying less weight on your harness, and therefore would be aid?

If I had 2 belayers I'd just get short-roped twice.

Great work! That looks absolutely terrifying!

Hell yeah new HH!

Man I appreciate your knowledge of ethics and whatnot when considering the bolt!

Helmet?

Do you mind explaining why your 5.8 gunks falls were so bad and any lessons you learned from them?

Thanks for putting this together!

Can we all agree that not wearing a helmet is irrational, there really are no downsides.

Last fall clip gave me chills when I saw how the bolt on the cam caught you. 😬

Awesome video. Appreciate all the content you put out.

Great camera work (and climb)!

Great video! Thanks for sharing. Lots of good stuff to think about

love your videos bro. I learn so much from watching you. This channel is so underrated

And sorry for focus on Cilley Dicken as it seems like there's been a lot of chat about it (this is my first time seeing it), but the logic of anchoring Sabrina with a cam was to stop her from shooting upwards to prevent a groundie? Do you think there might have been a different result if she was free to move dynamically?

Love the fall analysis, hilarious yet insightful. You don’t think that if there’s a low crux with dodgy gear like on Bird Brain, it would be prudent for the belayer to basically brace for impact with the climber, given the higher likelihood of that happening? Maybe a football uniform would have been useful 😅

Lack of helmets on belayer is recipe for a disaster. Im not even that experienced but everytime I been outdoors there has been rockfall.

I never wear a Bicycle helmet. One little wrinkle dinkle. I would suggest to not tell potential subscribers that your channel is not for someone that wants to complain about not wearing a helmet. Let them complain in the comments, it is engagement. You don't have to respond. Unless it is really insulting, then delete it.

Super cool stuff as usual! Definitely helpful for me, a relatively new trad climber aspiring to tackle consequential terrains! Not trying to be those annoying judgmental helmet polices. In all the lead fall you analyzed helmet wouldn't do shit for the leaders (or even making the leader easier to fall, like James Pearson mentioned), but it seems useful for belayers. In the whipper you hit your wife, perhaps a helmet would have better protected her head from slamming into the wall. I'm just curious about your take on helmet for leaders and belayers. No judgement implied :)

The not realizing you broke your ankle is wild. I'm currently walking around on a visibly bad ankle injury, and it's got me thinking 🤔

With the weather finally feeling more like fall I've been getting antsy to get back to work on bonehard. Definitely going to reevaluate that gear. And clip that old piton mid crux.

Wait, you fall?

Actually, "take your friend's pants when they offer them to you" is a lesson that I have put to use quite often, but never when climbing.

Kinda wild people were mad at you for that person swinging in on you on bird brain. It was lucky she missed you, but it seemed like not really anyone's fault. I'm sure it was a lesson for her as well!

Dude did you do this in July ??

hello, my comment disapear so I rewrite it in a shorter style: you would probably not feel such a difference of bungeeness (well this word doesn't exist, but whatever) if you were using another capture device. Shunt is probably one of the worst device concerning feeding (and also concerning your safety), so you need a strong bungee action, with micro you would probably not notice this. I say that, but I don't own any commercial bungee.

whipper was a jump scare!

That was not the second ascent.

recently stumbled upon your channel, but i love how candid and real your videos are. no weird youtubing vibes, just raw climbing in the gunks. keep crushing at your own pace!

This channel is a gee dang gem! Love the effort put into filming the grip positions on the holds.

Great send! I love the inset shots of the placements and holds. Please never say "Day Flash" again.

I love the Gunks and you make great videos of the Gunks.

Awesome job on the climb but no helmet ?! Love your channel, keep it up!

Fantastic! Best channel on KZbin!

Sick send! Was a pleasure

Great send. I love the family dynamic in your videos, the banter with your wife is endearing. Keep sending the videos.

Great video and send man, can’t wait for you to get out to the Lake with us sometime!

Strong work! I can't believe you guys climb in the sun this time of year. I avoid it even in the Winter! Beasts!!

Recently found your channel and have been going through the backlog of videos. Just wanted to say that holy hell dude your videos are top notch. The breakdown of the climb, visuals of the placements and story telling is on point. Thanks for putting so much effort into these videos, they're fantastic. Also great job on the send! You have unbelievably strong head game and patience to wait until you know it's right to climb something on lead.

wake babe up new Headpointing in the Gunks video just droped

Great reviews! I'll be looking into getting one for sure. Long time connoisseur of home grown TR solo bungee rigs and a number of other trad orientated DIY tricks of the trade.

Great review and nice to see a fellow TRS climber. I was recently considering which one to buy. Using a soft stretch is personally inconvenient and a bit uncomfortable for me as well. Thanks for the info and updates!

Holy shit you trs with only a shunt 😳 you wild