No Start, Diagnostic Basics - EricTheCarGuy

This video is a response to the Honda Main Relay video that I did. I've had a couple of people come to me with questions about no start conditions and how they should go about fixing them. This video is a starting point to a series that I plan to cover on this subject. The point I make in the video over and over is, don't make assumptions. Assumptions get expensive and can frustrate you to the point of homicide, follow these simple tips and it will lead you down the path of success.
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Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.

[@spelunkerd]

Today I spent an hour reading through all the questions in this thread. Gotta admire the patience of a real teacher, since I saw you repeat yourself more than a few times. Interesting how the basics get missed, in expensive, amateur efforts to replace one part after another. An education, in human nature. Thanks, Eric.

[@ericthecarguy]

No worries, glad you stopped by though and liked the "art" parts. Business is starting to gain momentum, I'm hoping to lock things in this winter, I've decided what I need to do now is make as many videos as I can. Good to see you.

[@ericthecarguy]

@kamal28 The purpose of the video was not to be specific per se but rather to give general guidelines as to how to proceed diagnosing a "no start" condition. I have produced more in depth videos covering a no start condition if your interested in fixing your problem instead of making negative comments. Somehow I get the feeling your not really interested in that so I'll mark you down as an anticipated negative statistic and move on. Have a great day.

[@ericthecarguy]

@holmesnmanning I might do a video on that at some point but for now I'll stick with the mention in the Ignition System diagnosis video, only because I have a lot of videos to cover before I get time to shoot that one. For now all you will need is a screwdriver held in the end of the spark plug boot, hold it close to ground and look for the spark. Good luck and thanks for your comment.

[@ericthecarguy]

Honda valve seals can be tricky to replace, they are a positive style seal meaning you have to pry them off of the guide to replace them and hammer on the new one, carefully. If you are replacing one you might as well do them all, they should come in a head set, the dark ones are the exhaust seals. Lapping the valves means seating the new valve to the valve seat using valve grinding compound and a special tool with a suction cup on it, they can be found at most auto parts stores.

[@ericthecarguy]

Well what are you missing from what I went over in the video? Spark? Fuel? or timing? Lets start with that.

[@suomik1988]

Eric is so right about not making assumptions. Earlier in my life I was working on my 91 corolla and it had a problem accelerating. It would skip and buck hard when accelerating. It would idle just fine though. Back then I made all kinds of assumptions, and that became very costly. We replaced just about everything until one day discovering that the plug wires we put on (that were new) were faulty. We found this out by putting on new oem plug wires and it completely 100% solved the rough acceleration problem. Mind you, the problem was so bad, you wouldn't even be able to make it up a small hill. If I were more systematic about things like Eric, I would have discovered that early on prior to spending almost $800 on other crap that really didn't fix the problem in any way.

[@Blobby_Hill]

look on the bright side you dont have to worry about all those other parts for a few years lol

[@ericthecarguy]

@kamal28 I'm not hurt just disappointed by your comment. I know that not everyone is going to respond positively to what I do but I prefer it when they can be constructive in their criticism as oppose to just being negative. I view your comment as just that, a comment. Sorry the video didn't give you the information you were looking for but I'm more than willing to help you understand ignition systems if you would only ask about what you're looking to know.

[@ericthecarguy]

@AmorNecesitado That is why I suggest checking fuses first with any electrical problem. Glad you were able to find that, thanks for keeping me updated.

[@ericthecarguy]

@spelunkerd You know it's really great when someone recognizes your efforts, especially when you didn't even ask. Some days it seems I can just copy and paste a response to just about all the questions. I created ETCG to help people with their automotive problems, part of that means answering the same question over and over some day. Thanks for your comment, I really appreciate it.

[@gwiggy8793]

EricTheCarGuy from England here ! Love all your effort making videos and I take a lot from it ... thank you ;)

[@richsellskc]

I like this guy. i replaced my son's 250K mile blown civic motor with a 42k mile civic motor with Eric's help. I had only one problem when all was said and done. The car cranked and ran but ran rough and with little acceleration. Crap. Well, come to find out, two wires located beneath / behind the engine connecting to the block with the same style blue harness were cross connected, hmmm?. Okay, problem solved. The civic has new life, a newer motor and has run perfectly for over a year now. The fact is, what seemed like a gargantuan task to start with became not much more difficult than falling off a log....backwards, thanks to Eric's simple, likable and practical approach to auto mechanics. you da man!

[@ericthecarguy]

@jwmedin The next time you try and start it cold try turning the key to the run position but don't crank the engine, count to 5, then cycle the key to lock and then crank the engine. If the car starts normally it might indicate a problem with the check valve inside the fuel pump which is suppose to maintain a little pressure in the line for easier start up. When the valve goes bad the symptom is usually a long crank before starting after the car has sat.

[@ericthecarguy]

That is a valid procedure and I've used it myself several times. I'm glad you found the problem and are back on the road. Thanks for the update.

[@ericthecarguy]

The closest you could come is with a leak down test, however the challenge is to make sure that you are at TDC with the valves closed when you do on each cylinder. In the past when I've dealt with similar situations I've just gone ahead and replaced the belt and tried it. 85% of the time things were fine, on the other occasions I just had to replace a couple of exhaust valves.

[@ericthecarguy]

@jwmedin The fuel pump itself isn't bad just the check valve inside that helps hold fuel pressure, you might consider saving yourself the expense and headache of replacing the pump and just changing the way you start it cold. The reason I mention this option is that I've only replaced about 5 honda fuel pumps in my career and 3 of those were aftermarket pumps. I don't see too many quality fuel pumps for Hondas out there in the aftermarket.

[@ericthecarguy]

First, distributors don't go bad all that often but ignition coils and igniters do which live inside the distributor, it's just easier to replace the whole thing I suppose for those who don't want to take the time to diagnose the problem. Second, when the tech installed the distributor they needed to re-time the engine, if they didn't it could have caused the issue that your talking about. In other words, check the timing but it wouldn't hurt to check the battery also.

[@geo4252]

Thanks Eric! Used this to diagnose a bad fuel pump for my 2003 chevy silverado 1500. 1st got spark. 2nd rented a fuel pressure gauge from my parts store. Had no pressure and heard no click from the pump. Double checked the voltage on the fuses and they were good. Truck is running good now!

[@ericthecarguy]

Different companies may call that ring different things but I know it as a reluctor, it works with an optical or hall effect sensor to tell the computer the exact position of the engine. They use it to time the injectors and ignition for the most part. I suppose you could hook a waveform scope up to the output and look at the pattern created and then compare it to what the car should be putting out. In that case you would need to know the pattern it should produce in the first place.

[@ericthecarguy]

@ironmangiant1 Another thing to check is the engine mechanical condition, such as the mechanical timing. You check injector operation with a tool called a "noid light" that plugs in in place of the injector at the connector and it flashes whenever the injector fires.

[@ericthecarguy]

@rachi2006 The important distinction is whether or not the light flashed when you cranked the engine. If it did then your problem is in the secondary side of the ignition system and is most likely the coil. If it didn't flash then the problem is in the primary side. If it's a Honda the most likely cause is the igniter.

[@ericthecarguy]

Check your battery connections, if they are good look in the under hood fuse box for the main fuse (the fuses that are screwed down not the push in type) and see if it's blown.

[@ericthecarguy]

@flipmodeOptimus That's interesting because I remember this going back to the old K-jetronic systems that were used on many European cars back when fuel injection first started. But believe me there are a lot of things that ETCG doesn't know, I learn just as much from the viewers as they learn from me at times. Thanks for the comment.

[@ericthecarguy]

@THOLIM90 Injectors get 12 normally during engine operation but it's duty cycled, normally you use a special tool called a 'noid light' that plugs into the injector connector to see if the injectors are getting a signal instead of trying to work them directly, you can also listen to them run with a stethoscope or equivalent. As for fuel pressure it varies by manufacturer so your going to have to look up the specs for your vehicle and engine for that.

[@ericthecarguy]

@canieva If you smack the starter with a hammer and the car starts it's probably the starter. This is a valid test for this as most starter failures are a connection issue and "tapping" them will help reset the connection.

[@larryholliday801]

@EricTheCarGuy-You're right about "throwing parts at it". I had some help with "throwing parts at it". I originally just thought it was the main relay with my no start problem on hot days. But I found a website that had useful info for the CEL&Immobilizer lights not flashing during the 1st parts of turning the key. Come to find out I had a fuse blown in the fuse box under the hood. I did have suspicions that the fix was gonna be as simple as this after we replaced all that we have. thanks

[@ericthecarguy]

@Xkmn The main relay has noting to do with vehicle cranking, it just turns on the fuel pump and ecu. Check the battery and the connections to it. If the batt and connections are good then check the starter.

[@ericthecarguy]

@kuvuakoj Just about every fuel injected car has the 'clear flood' feature, some like to stay flooded however in those cases I usually pull the plugs and let them and the engine dry before I make another attempt, I've even let them sit overnight in the past. You could also put a couple of drops of oil in the cylinders to help the compression when you reinstall the plugs. Good luck and keep me posted.

[@ericthecarguy]

@MazRixx Being a mear mortal myself I can understand the importance of accurate well presented information. Thanks for the comment.

[@ericthecarguy]

@mhaddadi 1. I couldn't agree more, the test is just to verify if you have any pressure to get you started, if it seems weak or it still won't start despite having fuel present break out the fuel pressure gauge to verify what you have. 2. That is actually covered in the mechanical verification, if the engine is having a mechanical issue it will not be able to draw in sufficient air to run. Thanks for your input and comment.

[@ericthecarguy]

@kamal28 Congratulations on passing your test. Perhaps the video I did on diagnosing an ignition system would have been more of what you were looking for here. I'm glad we worked this out and good luck in your career as a technician.

[@K1TT3NM1TT3N5]

wow, this brings a tear to my eye seeing people politely helping other in youtube comments lmao, good man

[@reubenrusch2185]

Thanks mate. Eric the car guy. you are a Total legend. I just spent 3 hours checking and adjusting and diagnosing a no start on side of the road. Turns out that I had drowned the spark plugs. Foot to the floor trick worked in under 30 seconds. I was pulling my hair out trying everything else until I saw your vid.

[@reubenrusch2185]

mitsubishi express carby model 03. I was thinking my timing had slipped.. not EFI but your tip worked straight away. thanks again for all the great vids

[@ericthecarguy]

@spelunkerd If you watch the video "Ignition System Diagnosis" I cover tracing a no spark condition. I hope to cover the use of a DVOM in a future series on automotive electricity. As for using tools such as a Power Probe, it is much easier and quicker and for the most part the newer versions have many of the functions one might need to diagnose an electrical circuit.

[@ericthecarguy]

@uzielreyes123 If you have spark and fuel the next step is to verify that the engine is in time mechanically and can produce good compression as a no start can also be caused by a mechanical issue. If you find you have low compression on all cylinders or that the spark plugs are covered with gas when you remove them your car may be flooded. If this is the case remove the plugs and dry them out then reinstall them and crank the engine with your foot to the floor on the gas to clear the flood.

[@TheKmanOfSmash]

This video helped me start my car. It seemed like the problem was like the cylinders were overfueled with fuel, preventing compression like you said. The trick of clearing the excess fuel with the gas pedal worked. Thank you, Eric the car guy! Liked and subbed!

[@ericthecarguy]

@AmorNecesitado If both the tail lights and both headlights don't turn on I might be looking to the headlight switch for the cause as it is common to both circuits. Check all the fuses first just to be sure. With any electrical problem your best friend is a good wiring diagram, without one your working blind in the dark.

[@ericthecarguy]

@beefystik Excellent suggestion! I forgot I've done the same thing myself. Thanks for the comment.

[@ericthecarguy]

@arcsnsparks45 Your right there is no 37 but there is a 3, MAP sensor code (do not replace the sensor as this is most likely a symptom not the cause) and code 7 which is TPS which is also something that hardly ever goes bad. Check the throttle cable to make sure it's not too tight and check for vacuum leaks to start with.

[@ericthecarguy]

@Xkmn Cleaning it won't do much good I'm afraid it will need to be replaced. The problem is within the solenoid, the electrical contacts have worn out and won't complete the connection when you turn the key. Replacement is your best option in my opinion.

[@ericthecarguy]

Yes you could replace the valve(s) yourself. You will need to replace the head gasket as well as the intake and exhaust gaskets at the very least. I recommend getting a "head gasket set" and replacing some of the oil seals like the distributor "o" ring and such while you are there. You will also need a valve spring compressor to remove the valves. Lap the new valve(s) in when you replace them, they should be fine if there isn't too much pitting on the valve seat.

[@ericthecarguy]

@tymeboi I still recommend checking out the idle circuit as well as for any check engine light codes you might have.

[@messer7bc]

Wow. 10 years. :) Nice! Have a good Christmas EricTheCarGuy. Everything will be ok!

[@ericthecarguy]

@stang1987ful Thanks for the comment. Send me a link to the video(s) when you get them up, I'd love to check them out.

[@ericthecarguy]

Not sure if the security system is a fault but it is possible. GM's have a tendency for fuel pump failures, I would check fuel pressure and go from there. Don't forget to check for spark and timing as well.

[@ericthecarguy]

@greenbike11 With a no spark condition you need to find out if it's on the primary side or the secondary side of the circuit to find the problem. I cover this in the video I did on Diagnosing an Ignition problem, I realize I did this on a Honda but the principal is the same in finding out where the signal is lost at the coil or after the coil, this will tell you what part of the circuit is at fault.

[@ericthecarguy]

@thebanjoboy666 That's exactly the one I'm talking about. I've seen improperly sealed windshields that leak down the A pillar and into the fuse box.

[@ericthecarguy]

@usoofat Hard to say really. The white smoke could indicate a rich condition that could indicate an injector problem or possibly coolant getting into the combustion chamber. You might want to watch the video on Diagnosing an Overheat for the test for a head gasket problem. I hope that gets you started.

[@VictorDunkle]

The logical explanation he gave applies with anything your trying to fix. I use the same thing in HVAC repairs

[@ericthecarguy]

@hp11208 Just remove the wire and if you have a spark tester hook it up to see if you have spark, leave the plugs in the head. You could also use a spare spark plug or screwdriver held close to ground to look for spark.

[@ericthecarguy]

@canieva That sounds like hight resistance, either the starter is bad or it's connections. Just for the heck of it try turning the engine over by hand to see if it spins freely, if it doesn't this could be your problem not the starting system. You might also want to check out the video I did on load testing a battery.

[@ericthecarguy]

@camk923 Considering it happened after you did the timing belt I would say go back and make sure your engine is correctly in time. I actually have a video on the replacement of that timing belt available on my website that will show you how to time the engine and set the belt tension.

[@ronathon01]

Thanks bro, you are right it was the fuel pump. I decided to bang on the fuel cell as someone tried to start the truck. It started to turn over which to me indicated that it was the fuel pump. So I replaced it and it fixed the problem. So once again you are correct. Thanks again you rock...

[@ericthecarguy]

@rabanometal Hard to say, the click might be a starter relay. I would be looking for battery voltage at the starter solenoid connector when you turn the key to crank, if you see that and the starter is not turning over then the solenoid might be bad and you should probably replace the starter. If you don't see battery voltage then the problem is not the starter but something before it in that same circuit that feeds the solenoid wire.

[@ericthecarguy]

First you have to be sure that the car isn't starting because of an ignition problem, it could just as easily be a fuel delivery problem and anything you do to the distributor or coil is just a waste of time. If it is a fuel delivery problem watch the Honda no start video I did. If you find it to be a spark problem check the igniter before you replace the distributor, distributors don't really go bad all that often on V6's.

[@GammaCruxis]

That's actually a good point. That actually leads itself to compression. I've seen cases where the IAC or the throttle is blocked, and the engine can't inhale any air. The engine will freewheel like it doesn't have any compression, but the moment you open the throttle, it fires up, but then dies when you release the pedal/throttle linkage.

[@ericthecarguy]

@harrisonmfw First check the connections at the battery to make sure they are clean and tight, if that doesn't help then try hitting the starter with a hammer or blunt object a few times and try to start it, if it starts then you probably need a starter.

[@ericthecarguy]

Your welcome, now lets see if we can fix that Prelude of yours.

[@ericthecarguy]

@Hondatech26 Glad you like the videos, thanks for taking the time to comment.

[@ericthecarguy]

@thebanjoboy666 Fuse problems are not intermittent, if they are bad they are bad. You might want to check your ignition switch, try wiggling your key in the ignition while the engine is running, if the car dies then replace the electrical portion of the ignition switch assembly. If that is not the problem then find out what is missing when the car stalls, spark or fuel.

[@ericthecarguy]

Sounds like you are on the right track. Check the hood switch.

[@jacobmix6638]

Eric! You are an awesome guy! You just saved me three hundred bucks or more by using the "hold down the accelerator 80%" trick. Been struggling with this for months on and off, and COULD NOT figure out what was up. It was flooded! Anyway, thanks a lot.

[@scottblubaugh]

Hey Eric, just want to say I really appreciate all your videos. I'm currently trying to get my 67 Impala back on the road, so I'm soaking up as much knowledge from you as I can, thanks again!

[@David-fd9cr]

Great advice Eric! You make it so simple to understand.

[@ericthecarguy]

@ecf859 Not sure really, the next step would be to see if the coil is getting the primary signal at the coil negative, if you aren't getting a signal there it could be that the module is bad or the trigger that tells it to fire.

[@ericthecarguy]

@dkvang920 When you do a power balance you should only remove one plug wire at a time. I think it's possible you flooded the engine, remove the plugs and see if they are wet. If that is not the case then check to see what's missing during the no start, spark or fuel and then diagnose accordingly.

[@ericthecarguy]

@ironmangiant1 Anytime, good luck and keep me posted.

[@ericthecarguy]

The procedure for getting the oil out is just as you described. 2cm is not that much but you should try and get it to the proper level. I don't know if it would cause the car not to start however, I think their may be another cause there. Make sure you check the basics like spark and fuel after you reset the oil level.

[@ericthecarguy]

@epik6489 It does sound like a main connection to the battery. The battery posts may be good but if you have those aftermarket battery cable connectors you should also check the terminal to the wire connection. I've seen corrosion here cause a no start similar to what you describe. I would look at the connections before I replaced ANY parts.

[@ksrmdavis]

Thanks for the information about no spark. I did the tests on the coil as you suggested 1st. I had little spark at first because the bolts were not tight it would not start. It would fire but not start. Reading the book about the firing order was helpful. but the diagram they show in the Cummings book is confusing to read. I replaced the disturber cap and rotor and now no problems. It runs great. Thanks for the video and advise.

[@ericthecarguy]

@eric31291 Glad you found the problem and that I could help, thanks for the update.

[@ericthecarguy]

@CheechJDM I don't often change power steering pumps but I'd be happy to make a video for you the next time I get one. The actual replacement is pretty straight forward so I don't think you will have any trouble there. Just make sure you only use Honda PS fluid, if not you will have a problem at some point. To bleed the system all you need do is run the engine for a time and turn the wheel from lock to lock, shut the car off and let it sit till the air comes out of the res and you should b OK.

[@ericthecarguy]

@lmunozjr If you know you have spark, fuel, and a mechanically sound engine I would check the electrical portion of the ignition switch, sometimes they get old and don't maintain contact not allowing the car to stay in the "run" position. This can sometimes be verified by holding the key in the "run" position, if the car stays running then replace the electrical portion of the switch.

[@ericthecarguy]

@TheMar29 The point of the video was to illustrate the fact that you need to nail down the cause of the no start before you start replacing parts. So my question to YOU is, what is missing? Spark? Fuel? or engine mechanical? Only after answering those questions will you be able to fix the car.

[@princejaa]

not making assumption is one thing i learned from the video. thank ETCG!!!

[@1232bluejays]

my no start on my 1994 honda civic was the main relay. I also had a daytime running light relay go also. Don't forget to check the relay will save you a lot of money

[@jh648662]

Eric, you're the man. 2 out of 3 times I tried starting my engine on my 98 sentra, it wouldn't turn over. Complete silence. And then it would start up and run fine randomly. I cleaned the battery terminals with baking soda, and iron wool, and also the battery posts to a glistening shine. I tightened the terminals by banging on the metal like you suggested. Car started right up and is running great. Appreciate your videos, thanks man.

[@ericthecarguy]

@nakandnat2o9 The fuse you are looking for is under the dash but check them all to be sure. Timing should not be an issue unless there was some sort of failure and it jumped time.

[@ericthecarguy]

@eesour Perhaps but you want to start by checking the battery first, I did a video on that if it helps. I've also done video on checking a charging system (alternator). Good luck.

[@ericthecarguy]

I use the same method and tool I used in this video, I just unfasten the coil and clip to a ground.

[@ericthecarguy]

Apply for the lien, if you sell the car for scrap (which you will not be able to do without a title) they call that "grand theft auto". Your best course is to call the costumer and try and work things out and perhaps make a legitimate offer or put them on payments or something. Otherwise it will take a while and a bit of paperwork to get the title through legal means.

[@ericthecarguy]

In my opinion it is the most important rule in diagnosis, unfortunately the more you do this the more you have a tendency to make assumptions, a vicious cycle.

[@stang1987ful]

nice videos man im mechanic my self and you do a pretty amazing job i was thinking of posting a couple my self on when losing performance problems

[@ericthecarguy]

@granyagami1982 No that is not true, voltage doesn't care what is conducting it as long as it can find a path to ground. Thanks for the comment.

[@christatro5017]

I recently lost accelleration in 2000+ e350 Ford then I parked the next day crank no start. I have checked the sensors, and changed the plugs/coil etc. I noticed some antifreeze on top of my motor (plasable manifold.. no start?)Fuel good. I could of possibly flooded while repair... FIX IT, FIX IT, FIX IT!!

[@ericthecarguy]

@jwmedin When you put the pedal to the floor and crank you are actually turning off the fuel to the injectors putting the car in "clear flood mode".

[@ericthecarguy]

I would check all the fuses first. Drop the lower steering column cover down and look for melted solder, if you see some replace the electrical portion of the ignition switch. Other than that your going to need a good wiring diagram and some time to find the problem.

[@ericthecarguy]

@Eugeneponce90 You might check the fuses as the fuse for the ignition might be blown. BTW it's not a good idea to run power to circuits the way you describe here as you could possibly fry something.

[@ericthecarguy]

@tqadir007 That would fall under engine mechanical and your right it doesn't happen often but I have seen air boxes full of stuff that cause a severe airflow restriction to the engine. They usually still run but not well. Also, the engine vacuum would be very low. Thanks for the comment.

[@ericthecarguy]

@fuc3t Don't replace the distributor for starters. It sounds like you might be having a battery problem, I recommend you watch the video I did on Load Testing A Battery as if you don't have a good battery to turn the engine over fast enough it won't start. If you find a bad battery and replace it and still have a problem follow the steps in this video to find out what is missing, I have other videos on no spark and no fuel that can help you when you get that far. Good luck.

[@ericthecarguy]

@manny19883 First find out what is missing during the no start, spark, fuel, or an engine mechanical issue, once you find that out you will be able to figure the problem out.

[@mss829]

I enjoyed the video! I especially admired the fact that you emphasized "don't make assumptions." I have witnessed people make assumptions where I work, and it sucks, but people have to pay the price for their actions.

[@ericthecarguy]

It sounds like it might be the electrical portion of the ignition switch. They're not that expensive and easy to replace, you might want to try that. Without looking at the car it's hard for me to tell you exactly what's going on.

[@ericthecarguy]

@DisaFreek Could be flooded. You didn't mention if you checked for spark or not, you just said you replaced parts, check for spark and make sure you have it, I did a video on diagnosing Honda ignition problems BTW.

[@ericthecarguy]

@MegaMarshal There are no adjustable throttle position sensors on Honda's and for the most part they should never need adjustment.

[@ericthecarguy]

@koolmadk Actually I think that car had a common problem with the ignition switch, you might want to check to see if yours is covered under a recall for the switch, you might get it replaced for free if that is the case and it hasn't been done.

[@ericthecarguy]

@brodsterxx In my area I'm know as a Honda expert so I get a lot of Honda's in, I'm hoping to expand my resume however so I'm getting more makes in all the time. I know the people that watch ETCG don't just drive Honda's and I want to cover as much as I can. Thanks for your comment and good luck in school.

[@ericthecarguy]

Most cars cut the fuel in a collision or rollover, their are several different methods used to do this. To answer your question an engine that is up side down will probably not run for long anyway.

[@ericthecarguy]

@rachi2006 If the light flashed on the negative terminal of the coil like I showed in the video and you still didn't have spark then the coil is at fault. Replace the coil and you should have spark again.

[@ericthecarguy]

@thebanjoboy666 I've seen that a couple of times. Make sure you don't have any water leaks from a windshield replacement or something as this was the cause of a couple of failures I've seen with fuse boxes in the past.

[@ericthecarguy]

@Eugeneponce90 Sometimes it's good to know when to hand it over as that was probably the most effective think you could have done. Thanks for the update.