NO TURNING BACK! | Rebuilding my Land Rover Defender

[@bingoSS]

Welcome back, guys!

[@Simonandisla]

Good job Liam 👍

[@PeterMenzies-t4r]

I have replaced three chassis myself, all have been painted and the last one was the best. I used a 2 part epoxy mastic on the first which was good but painted the last one with corroless paint system finished in Alkyd RF16 Glass Flake reinforced topcoat which is used in bridges and pipework in offshore environments. Finnish looks great, it’s easy to apply and is very durable & resistant to chipping.

[@kabaottoemulsion1869]

Amazing! Thanks for the long waited update!

[@charlesmorgan8440]

Excellent! I shall be watching intently. The lovely thing about those flat topped wings is how they work as a nice work bench, or indeed, as a tea table for many mugs at a mechanics case conference. A quintessentially British design.

[@TirsbaekTV]

Thanks! Yeah, they're certainly handy like that 😄

[@WestCoastVisitor]

The problem with getting a new chassis is you want it to look all nice and shiny with a great painted finish. In reality a thorough coating of Dinitrol would provide a better protection to compliment the galvanized coating. That would be my choice.

[@awalk5177]

I also had a chassis from the same place for my Defender. I left the chassis as it was from the vendor. Zinc is an excellent coating on its own. Look at the number of trailers that are just galvanised and that is it. My chassis is now 10 year old and looks just the same as when new.

[@TirsbaekTV]

I considered leaving it as, but ultimately I wanted it black - more for the look than anything else, as the galvanising should be protection enough as you say.

[@awalk5177]

@@TirsbaekTV I must admit I am considering coating mine with Black waxoil, inside and out. I fear that paint may trap moisture between the layers.

[@MattTester]

Great start and the new chassis looks fantastic. I'll be watching this series for when I need to do some work on the Td5 Defender I've just purchased. It shouldn't need anything too soon, hopefully...

[@diesdasananass]

Cool, it start's. 👍😘

[@Nafskie]

Havin been there, I recommend you install new bushings and bulkhead when you install on the new chassis. There are other parts, but I feel this is good enough for now

[@TirsbaekTV]

I have a new galvanised bulkhead also 😊

[@wildthinair]

I was going to jack up the whole defender, pass through scaffold poles and lower the chassis leaving the body up in the air. In the end I found a bloke with a lift who is going to do it. 2001 TD5 110 with a Maer chassis ❤

[@hiboulder_]

More vids!

[@nicebolche]

Yup, No turning back! Om606 or M57 Swap on the drawing Board? - Got a 93 Rangie Classic with a M57 swap, damn that thing goes !

[@TirsbaekTV]

Maybe someday but not for this one 😊 Got to ride in an M57 Defender a few years back though and was very impressed!

[@mattsnowden973]

With having a galvanised chassis, I would highly recommend replacing the bolts to galvanised, as I have found out recently if you use stainless steel bolts with a galvanised chassis there will s a chemical reaction which causes the rust and corrosion much quicker. Stainless steel and galvanised steel done play well together.

[@TirsbaekTV]

Thanks for the tip!

[@mattsnowden973]

@@TirsbaekTV was looking at stainless steel bulkheads at the lro and the guy selling them warned us off it with it being stainless even though they are cheaper. Other people have also confirmed it too.

[@SnaggerNick]

Lay an old bed sheet or a painter’s dust sheet out under the area your working on, if you continue on that shingle - those stones will swallow all the small parts you drop, some valuable or hard to source, where a sheet will catch them and make them obvious. The workshop manual, or even the Haynes Book of Lies will show where all the fixings for each panel, which will allow you to plan each step and triple your speed.

[@TirsbaekTV]

I will be moving the Defender to a concrete surface for the next episode. Will check out the manual, thanks!

[@rberkel1]

Those screws are Torx. Good luck with the rest of the job 👍

[@TirsbaekTV]

Thanks!

[@Bluebottle_GB]

Yep - that light fitting (on what would be the driver's side in the UK) is the one to secure for anti-theft purposes so that'll be why they're Torx ;)

[@robgreenhill1426]

Give the wheel arches, bumpers, checker plate a coat of black raptor paint before you re fit everything.

[@ColinGarner-h1t]

I always worry when people don’t hold the steering wheel firmly with BOTH hands . I imagine you’ve never had a front tyre blowout .

[@notrut]

You should have pained the chassis GREEN.

[@TirsbaekTV]

It could have been cool to go with a "colour", but I want the original look 😊

[@larskristensen5831]

Hello and thanx for the great videos you produce. I'll just give you a comment on Danish! Jeg håber du har være i kontakt med din synsmand inden du gik i gang med dette projekt, da det kræver en genindhugningsattest at skifte bundramme. Hvis ikke du har clearet hele processen med din synsmand, så risikere du at skulle betale ny registreringsafgift, da bilen skifter identitet! De skridt som jeg skulle igennem var: Fremvise gammel ramme til syn, køre den til skrot, fremvise skrotningsdokumentation hos synsmand, så laver han en genindhugningsattest til dig. Hvis du så har et godt forhold til din synsmand, så siger han: "Fedt at du får en mere sikker bil tilbage på de danske veje", hvis jeres forhold er knap så godt, så sender han sagen videre til Skat. Så kan du vente dig en regning for identitetsskift. Pyha, det var en smøre 🙂, men du må snakke med synshallen! Lars

[@AapVanDieKaap]

Rust is such a nasty thing. My dad's Td5 is 2001 and totally rust free because of the climate. He has over 550,000km on it now.

[@TirsbaekTV]

Wow! Which country is that? Denmark is probably one of the worst places for a Defender chassis! Very cold and wet winters + salt used on the roads 🙁

[@steenjinks7359]

Why are you bothered about painting a galvanised chassis? One of the pros of having one is keeping it silver so everyone can see you've got a galvanised chassis.

[@larskristensen5831]

It makes perfect sense to paint the chassis: The original chassis was steel painted black. So when you want to get the car approved to come back on the road, it has to look original. If the guy who approves the car can see that you have substituted the chassis, then you will have changed the car's identity, Which results in you having to pay a new "registration tax" on the car, which in Denmark can be thousands of punds, depending on the age of the car. If the chassis is black it is easier for the guy who approves the car to say: "I couldn't see that the chassis was new!", so maybe you are lucky enough to escape the identity tax. Fingers crossed.

[@steenjinks7359]

@@larskristensen5831 mine was put on a galvanised chassis before I owned it, so I never had to worry about any charges like that. But that makes sense.

[@larskristensen5831]

@@steenjinks7359 I don't know in which country you are based, but in Denmark the Transport authorities have the idea that the steel in a chassis will be weakened by the heating of the galvanization process. And this means that it is not legal to replace a steel chassis with a galv. chassis. Unless you have documention that proves that your chassis is built by an authorized company, and Richard Chassis can provide this documentation if you ask for it.

[@steenjinks7359]

@@larskristensen5831 that's one of the dumbest things I've ever heard. Do you not use galvanised steel in construction in Denmark? They probably have that just so they can sting you. I'm in the UK.

[@TirsbaekTV]

Because I prefer the look of a painted chassis and want it to look original 😊