FLUKE 289 Repair (leads connected incorrectly) 2024

[@BenieTheDragon]

There was so much oil, I'm surprised the US didn't invade your shop.

[@TinchoX]

Lol, good one

Or the "Just Stop Oil" group

[@familyplans3788]

THIS is what You Tube is for me , inspiring , informative and motivational ,so many good ideas

[@duotronic6451]

The Paypal call center that rejected your claim is probably located in Nairobi, Kenya. 😂😂😂

[@MentalCheckIn2]

The seller is in Nairobi too !!!😂😂😂😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅

[@VACcine710]

​@MentalCheckIn2 no no no my friend. location Mumbai my friend. Big business, long time.

[@robertdelange2071]

Why was i not surprised you added a plug to it.. 🤣

[@Ryan_DeWitt]

EEVBlog has an excellent video on why fluke meters are so expensive. It has little to do with actual accuracy and features but a whole host of other reasons many of which make no difference to most people. A good watch.

[@South_0f_Heaven_]

I don’t know. I have a fluke 77 from 30 years ago still going strong matter of fact there’s multiple of them. I’ve given out to friends and family that are all still going strong so I’d say the extra money spent is well worth it. They’re excellent meters.

[@northwestrepair]

@@South_0f_Heaven_ they have not innovated since then. Your fluke 77 is a time machine.

[@South_0f_Heaven_]

@@northwestrepair My point was that even though they are expensive they are well worth it in my opinion. Speaking on a basic multimeter (don’t need data link, Bluetooth, or temperature) it is still a perfectly viable option that does the exact same thing a 2024 version does. 30 years trouble free operation I’d say that’s money well spent and mine hasn’t lived a nice comfy life either it’s been used and abused. New doesn’t always mean better you know that.

[@Behemoth33]

​@South_0f_Heaven_ agreed,I have had my fluke for years now, only replaced the 10a fuse due to negligence from my side, and also had it calibrated once,second set of leads and other than that never had a days issue with it. I feel with the cheap alliexpress specials it will be buy cheap buy twice. One brand I'm curious to test out is UNI-T

[@Guishan_Lingyou]

@@South_0f_Heaven_ I use a Fluke 77 at work. But honestly, I mostly just use it to test continuity :-)

[@danhorton6182]

The reason you were getting different readings between the two meters is because on the vici you are using probes with a sense wire and it automatically takes the lead resistance from the measurement. With the fluke you didn’t null out the lead resistance, so the fluke is displaying the resistance of the chip plus the resistance of the two probe leads. If you null them out they’ll be very close to the other meter. I have the 289 along with a couple of other Flukes, very nice meters. Prefer them to my Agilents.

[@atsimas]

I agree, I didn't see him zero the leads, as you'd be supposed to do.

[@Murphydeffa-oq8lm]

why you think this guy cares, he just mead death mod to meeter. Exposed COM to corner. powered from cheap chineez high frequency generator PSU(Yes almost ALL power bricks couple oputput to MAINS via small capacitor) you toutch IC input with that you better hope IC has beefed ESD diodes ot this input will be dead forever.

[@drinkintea1572]

That ultrasonic cleaning was magical 😮

[@ffftube-le8np]

Better than factory! 😉

[@hafeez387]

oh men im glad you got it to work. you showed them fr. i got a crappy one of fb and honestly i cant live without it now. its just so useful

[@parawizard]

Not sure if you mentioned in the video but C145 on the board is a supercap and it commonly leaks all over the place after it fails. It's what holds the RTC when the batteries are out. You get a message to setup date/time if it's drained all the way. It also can cause the meter to eat batteries by cycling charging and internally discharging to heat I guess. You can replace it with another one. The service manual is widely available for here. EEVblog has a thread for it. I just ordered RSCSK2043R3D01004T off digikey to replace the one eating batteries on my father's 289. I haven't installed it yet though.

[@repro7780]

Good to know the part #; I have a 287 I was hoping did not need the supercap replaced. Last time I had the batteries out, I lost the time and date, so maybe its dead now. Great idea with the power jack and charging circuit, tho right?

[@DeviloftheHelll]

@@repro7780 if you never plan to use it on any high energy circuits. otherwise its gonna sting :D

[@DJSolitone]

As other experienced users have suggested I strongly recommend you to get a Brymen DMM. I have tried quite a few pro level and cheap brands and these Brymen are totally the best IMHO. The top of the line models will cost you about half the price of an equivalent Fluke. The best models can be as bulky as the Fluke but other ones such as the model that EEV Blog used to sell are quite compact. Make sure you have a micro-ohm range though as not all of them may have this. Best of all Brymen are made in Taiwan so they are almost Chinese 😅

[@main_rouge]

He wasn't lying, certainly never used in "field" only in the oilfield

[@DamirUlovec]

1. I don't think that was oil, but acid from 6x AA batteries. But not 100% sure. 2. Be extremely careful with external power supplies and aftermarket chargers, otherwise you might be end with dead meter (most of the time U13/U26 gets fried because of bad power supply / unwanted spikes and surges). 3. 15:10 This "thingy" is the most genius thing I've seen in a while. Brilliant! 4. Fluke meters are calibrated without test leads. Short the leads and use "REL" (relative) to set to 0.00 ohms. 5. For diode test, most good meters use "enough" voltage to pass diode's forward bias threshold. It's not necessary 3 volts like here, but it's a maximum for this meter. 6. Oh, and, nS (nano-Siemens) mode is excellent for testing leaks where it shouldn't be. Reading 0.00 nS means no leaks (Siemens = 1 / ohm). Often used for testing leaks of electromotor windings to the ground or case, and such high resistance things.

[@johnchaos78]

Most def batteries leaked, that came first in my mind when Tony opened the case

[@pichacker]

When you sell the meter advise the purchaser that it can no longer be used on any high voltage tests as the safety isolation barrier has been broken by fitting the socket to the top.

[@samcorbin6744]

I have the 289 and it's a really nice multimeter. I paid around $800 for the hardcase kit. The fact you paid less than $500, I would consider a good deal, eventhough you had to disassemble and resolder the diode. I'm sure the seller was trying to offload a broken meter to an unsuspecting buyer. Unfortunately for the seller, he sold the broken meter to a professional electronics repair tech. Looks like you got the last laugh.

[@lamune6809]

I use AA Lithium batteries like Energizer ulimates in devices like that. They last a long time, and they don't leak if you forget and leave them installed too long.

[@TheBlueBunnyKen]

I remember using those batteries in an xbox 360 controller and they lasted just as long as regular duracell batteries. I think it's all marketing

[@neverendingstudent]

I do the same with my 289 and a few other specific high-cost pieces of field gear. It just makes sense, if for no other reason than to guarantee that a $500 to $1K piece of equipment will not get damaged by alkaline leak.

[@peterlarkin762]

My first DMM was a 'Victor 890D' that has been used for many DIY builds, repairs, and domestic electrical installations for over 10 years. It's been a 100% reliable trooper. Have tried a lot of other ones since. None of them are quite as good (functionality, ease of use etc.). A lot of modern DMMs have auto modes only and I cannot stand having to wait for the DMM to figure out the signal type and range.

[@Ojref1]

I work for a metrology company, we commonly lease 87/289's (they are a part of standardized measurement processes, in fact) We get them in for annual calibration or returned in that state, and worse all the time. They've gotten better about rejecting cases like that though.

[@felixcosty]

Thanks for the video. Just my suggestion is to get a Brymen Multi meter. No Fluke tax on them. There is a chart on EEVBlog by someone who torture tests meters, and shows specs that way you get what you want for a meter, and you know what will kill them.

[@DJSolitone]

Brymen are the best!

[@dg_cato2644]

Great vid as always. I don't do market place nor do I do apple lol. Loved the charging mod too 👍

[@gamemaster85b]

You're basically the McGuyver of mechanics, electronics, and circuit boards! The Ultimate Tinkerer!

[@mind.hacker9996]

you want to put some sort of grease on the knob or it will wear out fast

[@Horus9339]

I was thinking the same, a light grease/Vaseline works perfectly fine on my ancient Fluke 83.

[@kenabi]

i picked up one of the lower end eevblog branded brymens a while back. its pretty schmick. does the business nicely. runs about 117 usd these days. bump up to the next level runs around 150, top end is 225ish. all of them are good kit, as long as you don't get one of the random failure units, but dave makes things right if you do.

[@galileo_rs]

BM869s destroys any Fluke 2x the price. Only problem that I have with it is that the know is too small. Made for Chinese hands I guess.

[@sidgysoho1960]

Let that be a lesson to all. Deception is alive and well. Recently eBay did me a solid and I was " surprised " !

[@fu1r4]

If you download the manual for the FLUKE 289 you can read how to disable auto off: "The Meter’s backlight and auto off features use timers to determine when to turn off the backlight, when to automatically turn the Meter off or enable the battery saver mode. To set these timeouts, press the softkey labeled Setup and position the menu selector next to the menu item labeled Instrument. Position the menu selector next to the menu item labeled Auto Backlight Timeout or Auto Power Off and then press the softkey labeled Edit. Use 7 and 8 to adjust the time to one of the preset values. Press OFF to disable the timeout feature. Press the softkey labeled OK to set the selected time. Press the softkey labeled Close to return to normal Meter operation."

[@DamirUlovec]

All this is also possible with Fluke ViewForms software and IC/USB cable. They always come together in package, so I wonder where the CD gone. Not a best piece of software IMHO, but does the job...

[@0nyxghost]

Nice to see It working properly. You could buy a Owon HDS2202S hand held 200Mhz Scope/DVM/SigGen for less. I personally prefer and own Fluke 87V. 289 is over sized and more for logging data etc. Other meters I like are the Zoyi ZT-5566SE talking bench meter with Bluetooth and tiny Zoyi ZT-303. Aneng 683 has a touch screen DVM that autosenses voltage or resistance. I also have Aneng Q1 push button with Inverted backlit display. It too bad you got buyers remorse with the Fluke 289.

[@deanagoes2791]

nice collection..but i only have an awesome old sanwa analog multimeter.

[@Gary-u5e]

What a Brilliant idea ! Skillz are amazing .

[@I_SuperHiro_I]

We got a huge storm outside…….but…..we don’t care 😂 Never change……

[@rishavdutta006]

Looks like the deal on the fluke was a fluke!

[@hadibq]

Very nice job!!👍

[@lucidbarrier]

I wonder if this belonged to an HVAC tech and he dropped it into some PAG oil. I put some seat belts in a tote and a bottle of PAG oil leaked and filled up the damn tote and soaked everything in oil. I ended up just throwing everything away because there was no way of getting all that oil out. I recycled the oil that I poured out and then dumped kitty litter to dry out the tote. You like to live dangerously because I would never buy from a seller with no profile pic and a generic name like Hunter Hunter lol. It was impressive to see you test, repair and upgrade the Fluke meter. I think we need a ultra sonic cleaner video because the results were amazing.

[@repro7780]

Damn, can I send you my 287 to have that power jack installed?? Genius! This meter eats batteries (power hungry), and people get lazy and leave the batteries in for a long time, and they leak. There is also a surface mount cap that powers the clock when you have the batteries out, and over time, that also leaks a bit, some people report. Its a great meter, quite accurate with lots of features. Now fixed, you should keep it!

[@neverendingstudent]

With these meters, I'd advise using lithium primary cells. They cost more, but have something like 2.5x the capacity and will never do the 'alkaline leak' into your expensive meter.

[@martinvaci7166]

It surprises me you have spend time to repair it. I have same multimeter my battery got damaged same way as yours. I send it for calibration / repair paid £60 for calibration and received brand new multimeter as it has life warranty on the unit .

[@teddp]

That guy chose the wrong or should I say the right person to scam. You fixed it and you're going to make money out of it by selling it not only that, you also enhanced it. Mark my words Tony at some point this thing is going to be a collector's item because you put your touch on it 😉

[@kensm2]

The short is gone. Magical!

[@mrpetit2]

There's no external powerjack or so on the meter as it then would not pass any of the required safety standards. These handheld multimeters are high voltage insulated safety devices. So now you have a very expensive multimeter that doesn"t comply with the safety standards printed on the housing or in the manual. For bench work where safetystandards are less strickt, a bench multimeter is more suited.

[@aonoloki]

Got the same issue on eBay recently, received a controler with an insane amount of corrosion due to battery leak. Sadly was covering a chip near the power circuit, so I tried to clean it with contact cleaner and toothbrush, no fix. At first case closed for the same reasons, I "altered" it. Been able to appeal for a 2nd review, told I just cleaned it, it was defective when received and still is (and that corrosion wasn't mentionned anywhere). The 2nd answer was like "Our bad, don't even bother sending it back and here‘s your money back" If you got any way to get a 2nd review, might be worth to give it a shot

[@robertparamore2863]

Thanks for making youtube videos. This is fun.

[@hitmanslayer3003]

When you file a PayPal claim you need to be very careful on how you word things. They seem to have a very literal and simplistic scope of English. Learned that the hard way, after i changed the way I claimed i never had an issue again. Hopefully it helps with next time.

[@MegaFUZZY2010]

can you elaborate on this any? Do I literally just say "open box and not work....!" or is there a trick to it?

[@solarix]

@@MegaFUZZY2010 Never tell them you attempted to clean it, that is what gave paypal the go to close the case in favor of the seller. You would tell them that it arrived like this , that's it never go into detail. You bought it, and it showed up like this the end.

[@northwestrepair]

@@MegaFUZZY2010 I agree 100% with the careful wording and i did my best but i failed because i provided too much details that was misinterpreted. Instead it should have been as simple as: I put new batteries in and it does not power on. Its not working and i want to return it. Thats all i should have said. Instead, i said that i managed to power it by attaching wires to the pads (which is not a modification in any way) but it was interpreted as such. Less details for less brain matter=expected result.

[@hitmanslayer3003]

@@northwestrepair You’re an honest man and these things don’t like honesty.

[@lucidbarrier]

I would also recommend calling them and talking to different agents and agree that describing the condition of the item and that it's not functioning.

[@RightAIopen]

The best part is the comment about apple products! Agreed 100%

[@Astravall]

Same reason why i don't own any Nvidia card.

[@vesnacvetanovskaivikj8606]

It is electrolyte from leaked batteries. Usually cheap zinc carbon ones. It is corrosive and that is why springs are gone. Avoid using multimeter with power source from mains. There is not always good galvanic insulation on power supply and leaked currents could damage sensitive electronic components.

[@user-dw6fj1py1o]

Great Work!👍

[@DeviloftheHelll]

check the supercap. you can find online on multiple forums what you should measure as powerdraw when off. if its above in the mA range the damn supercap is dead in it. drains batteries in 2-3 month if not used. otherwise its a damn solid meter

[@yunodiewtf]

This is why you film a continuous video from unboxing to powering on of anything purchased on ebay, fb or whatever The milliohmmeter is more accurate not because of more voltage but because of differential measurement. To use is accurately in your case you need to modify the clamps with sharp needles so you can touch either side of measurement with both contacts simultaneously. You could simplify it by crossing the differential wires at the very end and use one needle but that will give you some static drift.

[@neverendingstudent]

Edit: I had not watched the video to the end when I made this comment, oops. I'm kind of sad you don't like the Fluke, but to each their own. Leaving original comment below. Congrats on getting the 289, moreso for really making it your 289 by repairing and modding it. Same model I use in the field, you won't find a better handheld model with the arguable exception of the EEVBlog 121GW meter.

[@jasonj5862]

If you have a few hundred extra bucks and you want his modded meter, I think he said he was selling that Fluke on eBay at the end of the video and replacing it with a comparable Chinese version at half the price.

[@neverendingstudent]

@@jasonj5862 Yeah, my bad, I hadn't watched the end of the video when I commented, feel kind of silly now. Sad he doesn't like the Fluke, but it is what it is and people have their own preferences.

[@tonict2302]

Awesome video

[@sneugler]

I find that the buyer protection on eBay to be a lot more robust than other marketplaces. You're basically guaranteed a refund or return, which I've utilized a few times for shady sellers

[@이종민-s6d]

thank you

[@justinc9991]

A very interesting mod for this dmm is super capacitor as battery…. Almost instant charge and an acceptable usage time…

[@chryseus1331]

The open circuit voltage is essentially irrelevant, in fact higher is generally better to ensure you can measure things like white LEDs, resistance is measured by injecting a test current and measuring the voltage drop, thus where semiconductors are involved the measured resistance will depend heavily on the test current since they have a non-linear IV characteristic, this explains why you will often see differences between meters and different ranges, the test current in resistance mode generally isn't standardized and with auto range it may even pick the wrong range, diode mode on the other hand is almost always fixed at 1mA giving a nearly consistent reading between meters, this is why you can never depend on someone else's resistance readings unless the test current is specified, you're using the same meter, or what you're measuring is linear.

[@IVsLI]

I did the same on my multimeter, i did a lipo battery tho and i cant measure when its charging cuz it messes up the readings, but other than best mod i have done :P

[@laserspike]

Oh boy, it's now sooo much *better* *than* *factory* 🙂 Meanwhile, baffled by the charger: you have a buck converter dropping from 12 to 5 V and then the charging circuit boosts it back up to 9 V...? 🤔

[@SzamBacsi]

Perhaps not everyone understands why Fluke is expensive. We pay more for calibration, long-term support, traceability, and measurement confidence. When I measure something with Fluke, others always accept the results. Not everyone needs it (99% don't, not even our genius NWR), but Fluke is worth the price in my area.

[@serpentdarkness8844]

I wish I've had such a good equipment as you... PS. Your mic is VERY overloaded!

[@larzblast]

I never use alkalines in anything I intend to look after. It's either rechargeables or, if I'm going the non-rechargeable route, Energizer Lithium. I'm still running a 9V lithium battery in my Fluke 179 and I have only gone through three 9V lithiums in the last twenty years. No need for a power socket and recharge circuit modification at that rate.

[@jeffn8218]

Had the same problem. Soldering that diode was a pain though.

[@worroSfOretsevraH]

Now that you have really modified it, it will be much harder to sell.

[@anonony9081]

Joke's on the scammer, they sold it to the one guy who can fix anything

[@Watch__This_]

Great video like always, keep on going with this all kind of repair...and many thanks for sharing knowledge, btw what kind of flux are you using in this video?

[@border056]

Sellers cannot pass the PayPal fees onto the buyer. You can report the seller for that.

[@ivolol]

If you are doing low ohms measurement , with 2 wire technique (fluke), and you want an accurate value, you HAVE to do a simple REL 0 function first. Non-negotiable. Otherwise the reading will ALWAYS be incorporating the resistance of the probe wires; the whole point of a 4 wire measurement is it removes that problem without needing to do a REL 0. If you don't do REL 0 first then the Vici will 100% be more accurate than the fluke on low measurements. If you do REL 0 first then the fluke is probably just as capable and probably identical for your purposes.

[@South_0f_Heaven_]

What works best for batteries that sit in devices for a long time are the the industrial versions (hospitals use them) as they don’t leak. Still are alkaline but calcium instead of regular store bought and will not leak. On Edit forgot to mention: Duracell is Procell and Energizer is just Industrial for the names. Both of them are available on Amazon and cost the exact same price of regular batteries and in some ways are cheaper. Usually on Flukes people put the probes in the wrong spot and measure voltage/currents that is over spec of that port the lead goes into. If lucky you blow one of the 1-3 removable fuses. If not there are resistors that act like fuses just as a GPU or motherboard has. If the meter works but the screen is dim that’s usually from people having the slider on DC then testing AC. Been using fluke meters for over 20 years try 30 years actually so been my way around the block with them Far as PayPal goes next time, you don’t tell them anything you just say you got something that doesn’t work leave it short and sweet and they usually pretty good but you found out just wiping it down is enough to considered to be tampering and they’ll do anything they can not to live up to their responsibility as you found out. Anyway, good luck with your purchase and welcome to the fluke community you moved up

[@--_DJ_--]

In another thread he mentioned that he told them he powered it by attaching wires to the pads. In this case I think denial was the right call. They don't know that he knows what he is doing. But you are right, just say it isn't working and leave it at that when asking for a refund.

[@Mohagamer93390]

What options equivalents to fluke 289 they are??

[@northwestrepair]

UNI-T UT181A

[@Leadweight2]

First time seeing a 'brush' lead for a multimeter. What are some use cases for that brush?

[@ffftube-le8np]

He has used that brush in much earlier videos trying to find where a contact goes on a board without schematics.

[@Leadweight2]

@@ffftube-le8np oh that is so cool. Need to go back and watch more of his vids lol. Thanks

[@ahmedelshazly433]

"1 ass, 8 ass, 7 ass, whatever that ass refers to..." I'm dead.

[@halflife352011]

When you void the warranty, it's time to play😉

[@UnCoolDad]

Get a polarising filter for the screen. Also you may consider getting it calibrated - just for peace of mind.

[@memoryhole7229]

Like most Fluke meters, the Fluke 289 can be calibrated. This is something to consider if it's not as accurate as expected.

[@VeryPoorNerd]

Where did all that oil come from?

[@phdman2014]

Love your videos. Please forgive question: I’m looking for ESD brushes for cleaning my PC and PC boards (MB, graphics…) and cameras and lenses. I want to say dissipative brushes are called for, yet not sure. In the past, I’ve always used a cheap paint brush and canned air. Now, I have a data vac ESDV blower. Please, what do you recommend for the brushes? Thank you!

[@odczynnik]

There is missing also green light around turm on button. I have using the same meter since 2016 😊

[@moonfalls11]

i agreed with that last quote 😂

[@silverdragonheart]

You should 3D print a part to fit in the back with a DC connector in so you can power it from an external PSU. Edit: Ok never mind, I just watched some more of the Vid and you've solved issue already... of course.

[@Todestelzer]

That’s why I don’t buy tools second hand if I can avoid it. I want to use the tool and don’t want to modify or repair it first.

[@illyaeater]

If you paid with a card you can go to your bank when PayPal tells you to duck off, they'll usually take care of you. As long as you dont have a working product or didnt get what was promised, you're entitled.

[@galileo_rs]

Get a Brymen meter, probably the same price for new as you paid for a used Fluke. If you have small hands any model will do, for larger hands chose one of the newer models.

[@ryanmorgan5644]

Where did you find that test lead that looks like a brush. That’s pretty nifty

[@ChrisFaulkner]

19:05 there is a setup that allows it to stay on longer or a button or something, dunno much about the flukes

[@310_Latchkey_kid]

The way I see it is if that assh... person did you wrong, then I do believe your French is on point!!

[@julianmustofa4423]

If vram vrm mosfet shorted and send 19v to the memory. Did the core also affected?? (the memory not shorted tough) just the vrm. Gtx1070. Thanks

[@mime4331]

12:54 "I drilled a hole" - I nearly fell off the chair LOL. I though you might sell that Fluke. In fact battery power would have less noise than external PSU connected to Fluke.

[@yunodiewtf]

It's less of a noise and more of ground sync problem. With batteries you have 100% isolated power while with a PSU you might have some capacitor and a bleeder resistor crossing grid GND with your device negative and that can interfere or fry either of the fluke or whatever is being tested. I'd put an isolating DC-DC converter before the battery charger, also for a proper implementation you'd probably need a small BMS with a bit of a balancing capability to avoid premature degradation if 4S LTO or 3S LiFePo4 is used.

[@mime4331]

@@yunodiewtf yeah, that's what I meant. independent circuit.

[@yunodiewtf]

@@mime4331 "Independent" and "isolated" are different things tho

[@braixeninfection6312]

@@yunodiewtf I wouldn't want to run a meter except on battery. It would be too risky for a shock. It's battery for a reason. I get the low battery life is a huge issue. But it does bring in safety having it all isolated.

[@MerolaC]

Your french is impecable. 😂 (Still watching)

[@tony359]

When it comes to PayPal, you need to play dumb and just say ‘DOA’. Even if you say ‘it worked 2 seconds and it died, they’ll close the case claiming it was working on reception.

[@RickSanchez-ig3lp]

Paypal is just a transactions company. They don't have the same level of protection that a full marketplace company (eg eBay) does. That's why I never do straight buys through them - I always use some sort of 3rd party insurance.

[@igors_lv]

could it shake loose in shipping? the diode...

[@_QWERTY2254]

Guys, I am not sure but once i tried powering my multimeter trough the power line same as the board Im measuring and the multimeter did not work properly (maybe psu was broke idk), and I just googled and saw that it alters its accuracy so, would it work this way?

[@rahulkushwaha9500]

Please put a diode in line with the positive wire for reverse voltage protection.

[@GadgetReviewVideos]

If you bought it for continuity only and basic DC voltage readings then yea, it’s probably more than you need. But this is much more capable with many other features and safety when it comes to working with high voltage. I’ve done tear downs on cheaper meters you spoke of and I wouldn’t trust them with my life working on high voltage, its you life your talking about. Also mine is 9 years old and has zero drift, 100% accurate like new. I would be curious to see if it held accuracy after that unknown oil? Can I borrow it before you sell it to test the accuracy of all the functions? Best case scenario you can say it’s been fully tested and accurate within spec when you go to sell it. If you selling it, how much do you want for that AC clamp?

[@akjackwell9642]

nice

[@michalmichalsk]

For 420 you could buy one and a half new Brymen 869 with 500000 counts display and very accurate measurements. More accurate than overpriced Fluke.

[@danhorton6182]

It seems like there a fluke haters out there who say stupid things without bothering to look. I own both the 869 and this Fluke 289. Both are great meters, but no, the Fluke is more accurate. About equal with DC voltage, but the fluke is more accurate reading AC voltage and has 3 times the resolute accuracy when measuring current. Resistance, Fluke again beats out the brymen at double resolution, temp, capacitance, again the Fluke wins out.

[@michalmichalsk]

@@danhorton6182 fluke hater? where, who, why? because someone said that something is better? or cheaper? dont play stupid american hater games. we (rest of the world) dont. i had both meters. fluke was less accurate with less resolution, slower, much more expensive. dont look at specs sheet, look at thousands of measurements what people did. long time ago i tried original 859. after that i sold all fluke devices and replaced them with brymen. for price of one better fluke i bought best brymen meter + best brymen 3-faze clamp meter + probes + temperature probes + software and IR adapter. my oldest 859 used first 7 years every day for few hours is still working and in (calibration) specs. last calibration was in 2018 when i replaced it with 869s which is even faster and a tiny bit more accurate.

[@radmanace]

👏👍

[@cephvideo]

Amazing repair and mod. What career did you study to be a good electrical repairt super hero?? Thanks for your videos!

[@PolskiJaszczomb]

ALWAYS record packages bought second hand, right after your receive the box. Record the unboxing, do checks and the commentary.

[@neverendingstudent]

Yep, I do the same with anything not dirt cheap from AliExpress, and for the more expensive packages I get on eBay.

[@MrMacroVision]

would you send the fluke for calibration?

[@GeekRock65]

What meter are you going to get?

[@alistairgunn7934]

It is not oil, just lots of leaking batteries were there

[@TotalWarriorLegends]

Which Chinese do you recommend?

[@cinlung]

Now you ended up making that fluke one of a kind and better and more expensive. Patent it and sell the patent to fluke.

[@allenm00]

I love that you shared that deadbeat's listing with his name. 😂😂😂 get rid of PayPal. They are not your friend.

[@john-nb1vv]

Now the external power supply may change your CAT rating but for what you're doing it doesn't really matter.

[@TheSoapyJew]

sounds like a hurricane out there... wait.

[@davidlong1786]

Escalate the claim with Paypal. Talk to different representatives. They did me good with a claim on Ebay when a purchase sent to me arrived damaged but the shipping box looked fine. Obviously the photos on Ebay were of the unit before it was physically damaged, so the seller sent me something he knew was bad.