Sawmill School - Cutting Blocking & Stickers to Air Dry Your Lumber

What is the most valuable wood you'll mill? .... It may be the kind you'll probably never sell a single piece of: STICKERS --
Stickers help you preserve (and maximize!!!) the value of your milled timber, by allowing boards to dry properly and minimize warping.
These small but important pieces of lumber can come from your ugliest logs.
In this video, Norwood sawyer, Dave Boyt, shares how he saws blocking & stickers, and how he stacks his boards to maximize the yield and value of his wood.
There are loads of sawmilling tips, tricks and wisdom in Norwood's comprehensive book - "The Ultimate Guide to Portable Sawmills". Within its 158 pages, there is a whole chapter devoted to drying wood. You can order yours online at www.norwoodsaw...
For more information on Norwood Sawmills, visit www.NorwoodSawmills.com

[@GTDwithMatt]

Thank you for your knowledge 🇺🇸👍 from Rhode Island

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks, Matt. Always looking for new ideas. I just posted a new video through Norwood on Log Handling.

[@johnschuster9192]

Very good video! I'm a nubie so all the help i can get is much appreciated..the part about using the slabs for the weight is the best tip yet...

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks for the comment. Lots of little tricks to the trade, and I hope you'll share some of the solutions you come up with. Stay safe, and enjoy making sawdust!

[@jimmeier3760]

Hey, that was a really helpful video on Blocks and stickers! I love your approach and I especially love your stacking them to dry on pallets in a crisscross fashion. Great work!

[@daveboyt6810]

Glad you found the video helpful. Thanks for leaving the comment.

[@bogeybichon7000]

You are a great spokesman for Norwood. Thanks for the information and thanks even more for the "low key" approach that you take while conveying all the valuable information that your years of experience has to offer. Subscribed for your demeanor and personality as much as for the content.

[@daveboyt6810]

Wow! thanks for the kind words and encouragement! After teaching Jr. High Industrial Arts, these videos are a piece of cake! Are you running a sawmill?

[@bogeybichon7000]

@@daveboyt6810 I'm not currently running a sawmill but am in the market and trying to do some research prior to making a decision....which is why I stumbled upon your youtube channel. Keep up the good work and thanks for acknowledging my post. I meant every word.

[@rorschacht8478]

I love this guy, so humble and authentic. Norwood made a good choice using this guy's videos. I'll probably buy one of these mills next year.

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks for the comment. If you enjoy the videos, you're going to love sawmilling!

[@tomsommer54]

Did you buy one yet?

[@josephmartin8160]

He is an awesome teacher No Doubt. He's patient too and you can tell he's learned a lot of things the hard way and willing to pass them on to others. That's the mark of a good leader and teacher.

[@rorschacht8478]

@@tomsommer54 Yes, I did!

[@michaelmcclure8673]

Looks like a job well done Sir 👏.

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks.

[@paulfrye4896]

Great Video, so down to earth and what a good man. Easy to learn from this type of a man. Norwood chose the best.

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks, Paul. Yeh, I think Norwood & I make a pretty good fit. It is a great little mill, and they've got a wonderful team of people.

[@stevenbowen8765]

Thank you for sharing

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks for watching, and leaving a comment.

[@AtotheK907]

Great video. Thanks for all the info. Keep it up

[@craiggood9364]

awesome! Thanks for the simple overview and sharing your valuable experience.

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks, Craig. Are you a sawyer or looking into getting a mill?

[@VanDykeGray]

These are excellent videos. Absolutely fantastic tutorials. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and your skill.

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks for your kind words. Sounds like you're a sawmill guy too.

[@ToolManTaylor]

Great video. I have been told that putting your stickers closer to the ends of the slabs will help prevent splitting. Noticed yours are a foot or so in from the ends.

[@daveboyt6810]

Good eye! It does work, and really pays off with more valuable woods like cherry & walnut. It works best if you end-coated the logs when they were first cut. Anchorseal is a great product for that, but a couple of coats of latex paint will work in a pinch. Since color doesn't matter, you can often get a good deal on mis-matched paints. A lot of my logs come from tree services and the end cracks are pretty well started by the time I get them. Once the end cracks start, there isn't much you can do about 'em.

[@ZeeFrankensteel]

@@daveboyt6810 Free latex paint at many eco collecting place. Along with stain, clear coats, many who just clear house or garage. Many eco places won't let you take it, depending on municipal rules, having to do with insurance and what not. Mine allows it, and another one is unsupervised as it is basically a drop off. Seldom is the paint unusable.

[@savierashintyara1922]

I love Norwood,very practical, regards from Indonesia

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks! I hope you will post a video of your sawmill. I would love to see it! Best regards from Missouri, U.S.A.

[@jbjbuild]

Excellent video!

[@treggliebler6237]

Love your videos! Keep up the good work.

[@jeffreyrstapler]

I want to build a house out of saw mill lumber. I have about forty pine trees in north Alabama next to a small mountain. The trees are about 18-22 inches in diameter and are very straight and tall with only a few limbs at top. I am not sure what kind of pine trees they are. I have to clear the trees off of the property so I wanted to try to use them instead of destroying them. I wanted to know what I would have to do on sawing and storing (drying) the lumber. Would the trees need to be cut in larger boards and trim again to straighten them? Could that be done on a table saw? Do you let the logs dry to certain moisture content before cutting them? Would you cut them in large squares to remove all the bark and dry? Then cut boards later? I want to know the whole process. Can you help me? I want to make sure insects don't get in and destroy them also. Do they need to be stored inside flat until dry? I will need 2x6, 2x8, and 2x10. I am thinking about doing walls with 2x6 instead of 2x4.

[@daveboyt6810]

I know several people who milled their own lumber for a house or barn (myself, included), figuring they'd sell the mill when they finish and the lumber would be free. I don't know anyone who actually sold their mill, unless it was to upgrade to a bigger one. You likely have one of the southern yellow pine species, which would be great, but you may run into issues with the building inspector. You'd best check with your zoning commission before you start. The logs are best milled as soon as possible, because it decays pretty quickly, and there isn't as much drying in the log as you'd think, even though the outside looks dry. Cut so you will wind up with the size you want. Probably best to match the sizes available at the lumber yard so that if you wind up short a board or two you can match your wood with something commercially available. Your wood will shrink roughly 6% in width and thickness, but only .01% in length as it dries. You should go ahead and cut to the desired size (+5%) when you mill it. The wood does need to be stored flat until dry. I would sticker it, cover it and air dry it for a year. Storing it in a barn and having fans circulate air between the layers of wood is best. If you can get it into a kiln and dry it down to 8%, that would be even better, especially since the kiln reaches a temperature that would kill any bugs. You can also brush a product called Bora-Care onto the wood. It kills the bugs, but is not toxic to people or pets (unless you have pet bugs). I hope this helps. Good luck!

[@eitantal726]

what size are the stickers? are the 4x4s full-size or nominal? (3.5) From here, it looks like the 4x4 are nominal, and the stickers are about 1.5

[@daveboyt6810]

Good question. I shoot for 7/8" thick on the stickers. That way, I can drop the carriage down in 1" increments (allowing for 1/8" saw kerf). Once dry, I wind up with 3/4" stickers, which is about the smallest you'd want to use. 4x4s don't need to be exact, but I go with full dimension. Main thing is to get the pile up off the ground and have room to get the pallet forks in to lift the pile.

[@LuisMendoza-nq2sf]

Donde lo puedo comprar

[@NorwoodsawmillsDirect]

Norwood fabrica varios modelos de aserraderos de cinta portátiles, manuales e hidráulicos, con una capacidad que corta troncos de 66 cm (26") a 92 cm (36") de diámetro. Los aserraderos de cinta Norwood tienen un precio inicial de tan solo $4367. Actualmente, el aserradero para motosierras de Norwood, conocido como PortaMill, cuesta solo $ 987. Todos los precios están en línea en www.norwoodsawmills.com/es_es/norwood-lista-de-precios Los costos de flete varían dependiendo del aserradero que usted elija y el destino exacto. Los precios de envío dependen del tamaño de su envío. Por favor, envíenos un email a [e-mail] para una cotización. Show less

[@anthonylane9089]

I just started my own business and purchased my own mill. I am under-prepared and these videos and your insight and knowledge is proving invaluable. Thank you.

[@daveboyt6810]

It takes a while to get the hang of it, and I'm still learning! Glad you found the video helpful.

[@TheRealGunGuyTV]

I learned a ton from this. Thank you, sir.

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks for watching. Do you have a mill or are you thinking about getting one?

[@chimmeychonga8987]

I dont usually comment, but you're video was worth a like. I appreciate the information you have too share about the mill and lumber in general. Good day to you sir

[@daveboyt6810]

I appreciate your comment. Glad you found the video useful. Still learning!

[@matthewolson8875]

After doing this for a few years as a hobby I gotta say that this vid really should be the first thing anyone watches before going out to cut. my first pieces of lumber look just like the junk pieces here in the video because I didn't know about stickers. but this vid is no joke, stickers are quite valuable and always seem to be an afterthought. planning not just the cuts but where the lumber will be stacked is super important.

[@daveboyt6810]

Right you are! Some things ya just learn the hard way.

[@jman414999]

have to agree

[@beebob1279]

I'm watching all his videos. We are picking up a portable mill (kind I'm not sure) maybe a harbor freight ? Have over 30 cherry logs to mill and really have no way to get them to a mill. Haven't been able to fine a portable mill to come to the property to do the work. Then I don't have a mill sitting in my yard. I've thought about the portable chainsaw mill and just do a log or two every week when I'm up the property. Maybe a better idea for what I'm doing.

[@AD-vw8xu]

@@beebob1279 I use a portable mill. Its great for doing the occasional slab on weekends. I like that it doesn't take up much space. The band saw mill probably produces better lumber with less waste. It also seems way more efficient.

[@beebob1279]

@@AD-vw8xu I ended up getting the small Alaskan saw mill. I milled over 900 board feet of Cherry over the summer. I takes no room in the basement. It did a great gob. I was more worried that my Stihl Chainsaw wouldn't last the work. It ran like a charm. The only thing that went was the ripping chains. I went through two of them to finish the job. I've got the boards stickered on the porch. The only thing I'm waiting for now is the lumber to dry and keep the squirrels from nesting in it.

[@UNIK-wood-design]

I Dave, first because of you I own my very first Sawmill... thanks to you in a positive way... Here’s my question... first some reason, when I mill a tree, the blade tend to go upward... Any reason why? My blade is level in both ways... it wasn’t doing that at the beginning last week... thanks.

[@daveboyt6810]

Hi, Marc. That's a good question, and something that a lot of sawyers deal with. Checking the blade for level was a good place to start. How is the blade? Resin or sap build-up on the blade will cause it to wander. If that is a problem, mix a little Pine-Sol or Simple Green in with the water lub to keep the blade clean. How are you setting the tension? A loose blade will climb or dive. Have you tried a new blade? Mud or grit in the bark can damage the blade and cause the problem. You can learn a lot by putting on a new blade and trying a few more cuts. That will tell you whether it is a blade problem or sawmill problem. How fast are you feeding the blade through the wood? Pushing too slowly gives the blade more room to deviate in direction. What species are you cutting? Some, like post oak, are harder to cut straight. When you cut, do you start at the narrow end or the big end of the log? That can make a difference. Next thing to look at is the tracking (where the blade rides on the band wheels). You might try centering the blades on the bandwheels, trying a few cuts, then moving the blade tracking back or forward. If none of that helps, drop me a line, and We'll see what else we can come up with. By the way, what sawmill are you using?

[@TheMopangbend]

Dave, thanks for another great video! You inspired my 77 year old (very active) father in law, as you do everything yourself. We purchased the LM29 this winter and my son and I had a wonderful time assembling inside. After the snow left we moved it to its new home 50 ft away. We made your wedges before we even started milling as we could see the value to that right off. I noticed on your mill a stubbed 2x4 bolted on to the frame, looks like a mod you did.Just wondering what that is for? We recently milled a 25” maple and yesterday we milled a nice cherry. With all the help from you and Norwood, we started of making “good square” lumber. Only mistake so far has been on the last board of cherry, we had blocking under the tip end to make it level pith to pith, last cut we got the “not so brilliant idea” to put a board down on the bunks to get the log elevated for the last cut, and didn’t account for the blocking already under the tip end, made a nice cherry wedge! I’m an avid woodworker so I’m gonna make a sign out of it, for our Mill! Looking at the face of it, no one will notice that taper, but it will be a inside joke for us and a reminder no one is perfect! Keep up the good work, your videos are very much appreciated. If your ever in NH please stop by..... pizzabarnNH.com Mac

[@daveboyt6810]

Sounds like three generations working on or with the mill. That's great! My Dad, now 92 worked with me at the mill until a couple of years ago, sweeping sawdust off the track and watching to make sure I don't cut into the log stops (some times I'd intentionally leave them too high just to see if he was paying attention). The stubs on the frame are stops (sharp eye!). Sometimes it is easier to pull out the metal log stops on the last few cuts and clamp against the wooden ones. No chance of damaging the blade cutting into wood. I'll show them in more detail in my next video.

[@invisibleagents]

Someone put this man in a Netflix show as the wise old man, that gives the main character just enough advice to self-actualize and only fully grasping the log-metaphor at the end of the story!

[@daveboyt6810]

You give me too much credit. I'm just a poor, but honest woodcutter.

[@michaell.maloney4026]

Reminds me so much of my Grandfather and Brother. Miss them both desperately!

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks for the comment. I didn't know my Grandfather well, but I miss my brother, too.

[@StihlmaddArborist]

genuinely learned from and enjoyed this video. thumbs up from me sir.

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks. I enjoyed making it, too. I always enjoy questions or comments.

[@TheIslandsForge]

Can oak thinnings be used to make fence stakes? What min tree diameter would it need to be.. Is 6 to 8" diameter enough?.. ie very little heartwood.. I dont mind some bark on edges, but I dont want to season lots of them for nothing if sapwood doesnt work for stakes.. What are your thoughts on it? Thanks, Eddie from Ireland..

[@daveboyt6810]

Hi, Eddie, thanks for asking. What size are the fence stakes? Since they will be in ground contact, you will probably want to use heartwood from oaks in the white oak group. The sapwood does rot more quickly, and stakes containing both heartwood and sapwood will tend to bend as they dry. The smaller the diameter of the log, the more time you spend loading and clamping the wood down to cut it, and at some point, it is more practical to cut it for firewood. Hope that helps! Enjoyed your Grapple video. I need to build something along those lines for my tractor.

[@johnhunter1362]

Just wanted to say thank you, and to show my appreciation for your teaching methods and demeanor. I hope that future generations can behave in such a manner, and learn from others without pride, and also learn from their mistakes, and share the knowledge with others. I've recently had my first experience with milling lumber and I have learned a lot more than I thought I would in just a few days. You're a guiding light for someone who knows little about this craft! Cheers!

[@daveboyt6810]

Awww, thanks, John. Sounds like you're a life-long learner, and no matter how much you know there will always be experiences that teach a new lesson. As a wise person put it (not me, though I wish I'd come up with it) "Good judgment comes from experience... and experience comes from poor judgment".

[@benmaplesden9672]

Well I have been decided.i like my Lucas sawmill.but know a band saw is better an serten thing like stickers .made life relaxed.right.thanks much I will shair like wise .

[@daveboyt6810]

Hi, Ben. Swing blade mills certainly have their place, especially if you can put a wide slabber & planer on 'em. I wouldn't mind having one of each.

[@ignaciolarco8841]

I have a doubt, the assembling of the saw, the engine , the operator handles, trunk support and clamping ( everything that goes on the top ) are the same for the 36v2 ans 38 models?

[@michaelfrench343]

Thanks for the video definitely a great learning video especially for us guys just starting off.

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks for watching! Let me know how you're getting along.

[@danmoran48]

Really enjoyed the video! Any ideas on how the best way to remove sticker stain on oak lumber? Thanks

[@daveboyt6810]

Sometimes it will come out when you plane the wood, though you might have to take off more than you otherwise would. Best is to use dry stickers and keep the pile covered and not get the stain in the first place.

[@brianbridgeo147]

seems like a very smart kind man - thanks for sharing your wisdom - hello from Nove Scotia -

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks for the comment. Great to hear from Nova Scotia-- looks like a beautiful part of the world! Not much wisdom involved, more a matter of experience than being smart. I've made more than my share of dumb mistakes, but as long as I get back to the house with all fingers & toes accounted for, it's all good.

[@phoneixinvestor]

Thank you. Straight forward information presented well.

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks. It' isn't rocket science, you just have to watch what you're doing & stay safe.

[@lemhanback9595]

I'm curious would it help the drying process of you had an enclosure like a pole barn to store it in?

[@daveboyt6810]

Hi, Lem. That depends. You've got to have good air circulation in order for the lumber to dry. That might involve installing fans to circulate air through the pile, unless both ends of the bar are open so the wind can blow through it.

[@auvis1]

Thanks for the lessons. Can you use western red cedar for stickers on 8/4 bur oak planks?

[@daveboyt6810]

Never tried it, but so far, I haven't had problems mixing species, as long as as the stickers are kiln dry first. Your safest bet is to make stickers out of a species in the white oak group (of which burr oak is a member), for example post oak. Next best would be another light-colored wood so you don't get sticker stain.

[@jimmarland4686]

Very helpful. I just bought a bandsaw mill. Thank you!!

[@daveboyt6810]

Hi, Jim. Which bandsaw did you buy? How do you plan to use it. I hope you'll love making sawdust as much as I do!

[@tboyz1]

...ask me how I know haha thanks for sharing your knowledge awesome videos :)

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks for watching. The learning process never ends.

[@AttitudeAdjuster]

Nothing like learning from experience, thanks Heaps for spending the time to make the videos

[@andrewstafford-jones4291]

We use steel banding on all the through and through sawn logs. Normally banded every metre or so to: Reduce splitting Keeps boards flatter stops stacks falling apart during drying Makes moving complete sawn logs easy, especially when being re-sawn. Oh yes, sometimes the timber will snap the bands !! - when it moves, nothing will stop it. We just paint a number on both ends of the logs in whatever paint we have and its recorded in the stock book ( and the computer) Stenner VBQ60 60" wheels running 6-9" bands.

[@daveboyt6810]

Good idea. It would also make the stacks easier to move and stack. Do you tighten the bands as the wood dries & shrinks... maybe drive in wedges?

[@andrewstafford-jones4291]

@@daveboyt6810 No we don't bother unless the log is falling apart making it difficult to move, then we re-band it. Oh and forgot to mention, we always stack the new logs in the shade of a building or under cover for the 1st 6 months if we can (Hardwoods only)

[@Bufflalo121]

Another great informative flick...thanks Dave.....BB

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks, Bill. I appreciate that. Working on a few more

[@vermontjeff2535]

You should do a video on what to do with the waste wood after cutting up a log ? There must be a lot of ideas on this

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks for the comment, Jeff. The sawdust just goes to compost, and the slabs go for firewood. I am working on a project to fuel the sawmill with sawdust (wood gasification). Some of the better slabs could go for small projects, such as bird houses, even cutting boards or pen blanks. Just not enough time!

[@douglasfick4817]

I'm well seasoned in seasoning lumber, and I must say, very good video.

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks! Always good to hear from a fellow lumberman!

[@spitfireresearchinc.7972]

This was excellent- so much good advice! For my first project I rented my neighbour with his portable mill, and that was my chief frustration: he was cutting lumber so fast that there was no time to cut stickers and do a decent pile- everything had to be re-stacked afterward which was a lot of manual labour. Now that I have my own mill, my practice logs and anything short because it's too crooked will end up as blocking and stickers, and I'll always have them on hand. Piled on a pallet- that's just idea. But I'll match my drying pile width not to my loader forks, because my machine is too light to lift anywhere near the tip of the forks anyway. I'll match my piles to the width of a single piece of sheet metal roofing. You can still throw slabs on top for extra weight, but metal roofing keeps the water out of the pile with certainty.

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks for the comment. You're right... a lot depends on the size and capacity of your equipment. I hate stacking wood twice!

[@litholi9103]

My first mill will probably be a Norwood, simply because I trust this guy.

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks for the comment. Norwood has a number of sawmills that meet different needs & budgets. I've been very impressed with the quality of the machine, and the good folks at Norwood that back them. Since you trust me, I've got this bridge for sale...

[@jamesmuir6057]

Great tips, thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@daveboyt6810]

My pleasure. Thanks for the feedback.

[@douglasmcleod7481]

i dont have much experience but im cutting my stickers 1/2 inch . seems like that is enough to let air thru

[@ReapWhatYouSeauxLeJeune]

Great job I Run a LT 15 Woodmizer . One thing I see is your sawdust ejects out the Opposite side you work on . Been running mills a long time never stop learning

[@daveboyt6810]

Either way, the wind will always shift to blow sawdust in your face (mine does, at least). Keep milling & keep learning!

[@jamesfrederick977]

I appreciate the time and effort you took to make this video. I'm just getting started restoring the family farm buildings and i will put your knowledge and experience to good use.

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks, and best of luck with your projects.

[@migueljose2944]

thank you. you are a good teacher. I learned something from you!

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks. I learn something new just about every time I fire up the mill!

[@bbillythesailor]

Awesome lots of practical experience from the Sawyer.

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks, Bill. You running a mill?

[@alaricomanju7280]

I love the way you explain things. Good job mate

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks for watching! Are you milling lumber, too?

[@joshrossow2094]

I would love to spend a day with Dave. He seems to be a great guy to hang out with.

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks, but I don't have much time to hang out. If you come to visit, we can talk while we mill & stack lumber.

[@ignaciolarco8841]

Thank you mister , we are assembling a 36v2 in Perú, Rio Negro , Satipo . For hardwoods , tropical weather. Your video A B C FOR frame helps us a lot.

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks for watching, and for leaving the comment. The 36V2 should serve you well. It is a tough mill, easily maintained, and does a good job on hardwoods. Best wishes!

[@almonjacob3496]

What are those small blocks of wood you have added to the bunks for?

[@daveboyt6810]

Very observant! Those are log stops that I can use for the last cuts on the cant. They give me just a little more room.

[@jerrylittle8922]

Mr Dave, What is the key, besides hard work to stay in physical shape at your age? What does your diet consist of on a daily basis?

[@daveboyt6810]

A lot of it is staying physically active. I'm mostly vegetarian, and I credit Becky, my wife of 40 years for taking good care of me. I'm 66 now and have had a lot of the usual ailments... cataracts (I'm mostly blind in my left eye, but my right is is still pretty good), hernia, ruptured disk, dentures... plus numerous bruises & a couple of dislocations from working with logs. Like the song goes, "I ain't as good as I once was, but I'm as good once as I ever was".

[@jerrylittle8922]

@@daveboyt6810 Thank you . I hope i can still be worki g at 66. Im 53 now.

[@sethwarner2540]

Say, those stickers are pretty big! Looks like 1" or more! Im used to 1/2" or at most 3/4"! Also, do you think putting plastic sheeting down before blocking is helpful? I only have a few board to sticker, so what is the best way to keep rain off? Also, rain.

[@daveboyt6810]

Good eye, Seth! Yes, the stickers are thicker than they need to be, which makes the stacks a bit taller. The reason for that is that I cut a lot of odd lengths, mostly 1-1/8" thick. I cut a lot of stickers from edging the boards, and I want them all the same size-- plus when stacking, I can use stickers as spacers when I stack longer boards on top of shorter ones. They provide support and keep the stack level. Plastic sheeting under the blocking is a good idea, as it keeps ground moisture away from the bottom layers. I recommend covering the stack with metal roofing, then weights on top of that. This keeps most of the rain off, but still allows for good air circulation through the stack.

[@ZeeFrankensteel]

Thx for all the vids, really guiding me along other vids from other utubers and reading up too. Helps a lot to see others saw (no pun intended). I also learn other things that you are not talking about but that you do as you go along,. Also have the HD36, I see that you modified the spout where the saw dust exits. I guess the plastic is not fully open because Norwood would not want to be liable for someone putting their hand in there in case the blade is spinning, like clearing out debris, but then I see yours can be removed. So put back for the video to show safety. Or is there a benefit to those holes?

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks for the comment. Hope your HD36 is running well. There was no need to cut out the end of the sawdust chute. The tire directs the air flow in such a way as to increase the volume of air, which pulls sawdust out of the chute (think Bernoulli effect). While demonstrating the mill, someone even lifted up the tire and looked inside (through the holes) while the blade was still spinning! There seems to be no limit to lack of common sense, so all safety guards stay in place, no matter how careful I intend to be. The chute does a great job of directing sawdust down and out of my face. I can also hang a bucket on it to catch the sawdust. By the way, I enjoyed "Zee Magic Pick"!

[@ZeeFrankensteel]

@@daveboyt6810 That magic pick , done a long time ago, gets used all the time, as a hole maker, box opener, scriber at times, it's just a silly thing I made as a do it all tool. Never thought I would still use it to this day! Since it's somewhat thick it feels good use as it has some heft. It even opens cans of Maple syrup like a hot knife through butter. for a quick sip! But really the videos really helped me a lot and some I watch again. Will try the tire!

[@daveboyt6810]

@@ZeeFrankensteel That pick will outlast you, unless it gets thrown into a volcano. I know what you mean about the video. My first one was "If I Only Had a Job", and it helped get through a rough patch with a little humor. Hope to see some video of you running the mill one of these days.

[@CanadianGoldMining]

Love this series, your cheerful energy and tons of clear concise info .. Just got a frontier os27. .. So happy to be getting into this adventure finally.... question .. some people worry about full sun drying.. its all i got here in the Okanagan ( no trees anywhere near the yard) ... would you worry ? Create shade ? thanks in advance!!

[@daveboyt6810]

Congratulations on the mill. Hope you get a lot of good use out of it! Drying wood in full sun is still better than just leaving it in piles. You might get a little more defect on the exposed pieces. My suggestion is to cover the stacks with roofing tin, and weighting it down, maybe with cinder blocks or heavy beams.

[@CanadianGoldMining]

@@daveboyt6810 Thanks for the reply and advice !!!

[@JanAndreasHolm]

Thank you for all your videos. I will certainly continue wathing them. I have a few questions about blocks and stickers: What kind of material is the best to use? Is ot ok to mix materials, for instanse use spruce for all kind of lumber?

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks for watching. You can use any species for blocking and stickers, but it is best to let stickers air dry first. Light-colored stickers won't be as bad as leaving "sticker stain" as darker woods, such as walnut. Dry spruce should be a good all-around sticker wood.

[@KathyAndrew]

You should take the 4x4's out of the center of the log where the most knots are. I set a trailer next to the mill to load all the firewood onto. Instead of having to pick it up again. And I build pallets to load the lumber onto right off the mill, and sticker as I go. Saves handling the lumber over and over.

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks for the comment. I really like your pallet idea. I'll give it a try!

[@johnlawhorne8415]

I've had Norwood Mark III since around 1999. Keep it under cover and in good condition. Great equipment. Your videos are greatly appreciated even though I have sawn many thousands of Board Feet over the years. Lately, when watching you on the newer machines I am very envious of the modern log dogs and clamps to keep the logs and cants in place. I have the old rods and hand screw (one only) and wonder if there is a way I could purchase those more modern dogs and clamps and retrofit to the Mark III? I'm too old to buy a new machine and besides, the Mark III is still doing the job.

[@NorwoodsawmillsDirect]

Hi John How great to hear that you are still enjoying your Mark 3. It was a good machine. Unfortunately the newer log clamping mechanisms do not work on the older log deck.

[@hansbaertle]

Hey Dave… been a great help watching your videos putting the HD36 together and getting it calibrated to we’re it cuts true… Thanks a lot…I’m up in Haines, Alaska where we have mostly Sitka Spruce and Birch… I used a Cottonwood for my first log for practice using it for stickers and blocks… Do you think I can get away using the fresh cottonwood stickers without drying them first…you mentioned fresh stickers stain the boards…. Plan on sawing birch for furniture next…Hans

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks for the question. I'd still recommend air drying the cottonwood for at least three weeks (if not left out in the rain). Since birch is a light-colored wood it would show sticker stain more than most other species. That said, it would be better to use freshly cut stickers than none at all.

[@hansbaertle]

@@daveboyt6810 Thanks Dave👍

[@grantschomburg9990]

How long should I let stickers dry before I can start using them?

[@daveboyt6810]

Good question. I'd give them a couple of months, at least, but you need to keep them off the ground, and cover them with a piece of roofing, if possible (not with a tarp-- you need air circulation).

[@geraldrutherford5360]

Thanks for the info you shared. I’m brand-new to log milling. I was trying to figure out where to start and it looks like I need to make my stickers and some 4 x 4‘s first before I do anything else thanks so much.

[@daveboyt6810]

Blocking and stickers are a great way to start out milling. You sure don't want to make too many mistakes when cutting a valuable walnut log!

[@LowellYes]

Great videos. I watched several tonight. I'd like your thought on drying lumber in a sea container. Over the years the outside temp will vary from 90F to -10F.

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks, Lowell. Between building the house & running a railroad, looks like you stay pretty busy. I've got a shipping container that I plan to convert to a kiln. The biggest issues are loading it and air circulation. Without a heat source, you won't get much drying done in the winter, though. I had a 12' overhead garage door installed on one side of a shipping container, and plan to insulate it and install a dehumidification kiln in the near future.

[@kp10292]

Thanks for taking the time to share your experience and knowledge and watch someone else more wood around!

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks for watching, and for leaving a comment. I enjoy watching other people work, too!

[@robboot2801]

Love ya material mate. Keep up the good work. I find it soothing and relaxing watching you work.

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks for the comment! Yeh, I love watching other people work, too.

[@stetreault911]

Great stuff will follow for more great stuff,keep it up

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks for watching! Are you running a sawmill, too?

[@scottcarlson2788]

Thanks for the info. I made it 2 weeks with my new o27 before I hit a log rest. I have replaced the rests with wood so it will not hurt my ego. The wood is just not strong like the metal stops.

[@daveboyt6810]

Welcome to the club! I've been thinking about metal log rests with replaceable wood tops (about the top 3" or so). That gives you the strength of steel where you need it, and wood where you're most likely to saw into it.

[@margaretames2034]

How do you mark straight lines on a round log??

[@daveboyt6810]

Carpenter' square & level. It's cutting straight lines that's important!

[@terryherrera5252]

You sticker THA stickers ?? 👍🏼😂😂

[@daveboyt6810]

Yes, if I don't use them right away. Sometimes they go straight from the mill to the lumber pile.

[@KDOGGER11]

Great content, just getting into CSM and bandsaw. Wondering if you have separate sticker stacks for different lumber types? Or is it just softwood and hardwood stickers work for each type? So you could sticker a Norway pine with Red pine stickers? Or oaks with maple stickers?

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks! Glad to hear you're starting to make sawdust. I don't worry about sticker species. As long as the stickers are air dry, you should be fine. Dark stickers might leave a surface stain on light colored wood, so I don't recommend walnut stickers for anything other than walnut or cherry.

[@Wrenchen-with-Darren]

Thanks for the lesson. 👍

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks for watching!

[@Wiyaboy]

I have heard before that using the same wood for stickers as your lumber will prevent staining. Is that true? And do they need to be dry before you use them?

[@NorwoodsawmillsDirect]

Hi Will. It would be good to let stickers air dry a couple of weeks, but a light-colored hardwood like post oak have never caused a problem. If the boards are very light-colored, like maple or ash, there could be some noticeable "sticker stain" (not to be confused with "sticker shock"). This typically disappears after one pass through the planer, though.

[@jimmeyer8093]

These videos are a great help for a me, a rookie sawyer. Does any particular type of wood sticker stain the lumber less than others? This is a hobby for me, a very active retiree.

[@daveboyt6810]

Hi, Jim, thanks for watching. In general light-colored woods stain less, but as long as the stickers are air dry, you won't have a problem with sticker stain. Enjoy sawmilling! What mill are you running?

[@Caleb1113]

This dude is the MAN. Thank you so much for the information! So helpful!

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks, Caleb. Anyone who skateboard across South Dakota should have no problem with a sawmill!

[@landyardarty1754]

How long do you have to wait until the wood drys out.

[@NorwoodsawmillsDirect]

1" per year is the rule of thumb, but a year of drying in Phoenix, AZ is much different from a year of drying in Seattle, WA. Also, it depends on species: Walnut for example, dries more quickly than white oak. No matter how long you air dry lumber, it will never reach the kiln- dry moisture content required for indoor furniture. In summary, there are many variables as to how long it will take wood to dry: species, condition of wood, dimension sawn, manner in which the wood has been stickered and stacked, ambient temperatures and humidity levels, prevalence of wind, etc … all play a big part in drying. And, of course, what is “dry” enough depends on what you plan on doing with your wood. Best thing is to get a moisture meter and you can monitor your boards as they dry. We recommend you watch the following videos on Sawmill TV: Sawmill School - Air Drying Your Lumber www.norwoodsawmills.com/tv/index.aspx?isVideo=true&id=486109271 Sawmill School - Cutting Blocking & Stickers to Air Dry Your Lumber www.norwoodsawmills.com/tv/index.aspx?isVideo=true&id=312955927 You may want to get yourself a copy of Norwood's book - "The Ultimate Guide to Portable Sawmills". We have a whole chapter devoted to drying wood. There is another chapter devoted to making various cuts including quarter sawing. We have another chapter covering how to make money with your Norwood. Plus, there other chapters with great pro-sawmilling tips. It's just $8.70 for shipping (we give the book for FREE). www.norwoodsawmills.com/free-portable-sawmills-book

[@gtb4]

Thank you for sharing. Good Video!

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks for watching! Nothing beats a good day out at the sawmill!

[@katherynbrown]

Great video! I love how you save labor. Thank you for sharing your experience.

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks for the comment. Now matter how much labor saved, there's still plenty of work!

[@aaronaspinall7402]

Thanks for taking the time to teach us all how to use our sawmills!!!!

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks for watching! What kind of sawmill are you running?

[@salmonhunter7414]

What size of the stickers 1x1 or 3/4 x 3/4

[@daveboyt6810]

Actually, I cut mostly 1-1/8" by 7/8". Here's why... I cut a lot of wood 1-1/8" for customers so that they can dry and plane the boards to 3/4" , even if it cups or warps a bit in drying. Low quality boards go back on the mill for stickers, and I drop the head 1" for each pass (easy to calculate cuts that way). With the 1/8" kerf, they come out 7/8" thick. If I'm cutting low-quality post oak for stickers, I'll just cut 7/8" x 7/8" (again, because it is easy to calculate the cuts). They'll shrink down to 3/4" in a month or two.

[@grant1856]

I noticed that he put some cut off logs on the top for weight and to shed the water but wouldn’t something like this left outside in the rain never dry? Doesn’t it need to be covered to keep the rain off of it or does it eventually dry even being out in the elements?

[@daveboyt6810]

You're right. That's just a temporary measure until I get the wood to a drying area and can cover it properly with sheets of metal roofing.

[@Thunder_Ridge_Ranch_KY]

How long should I let my stickers set and season before using them to aur dry lumber?

[@daveboyt6810]

If you keep 'em covered, they should be ready in 3 weeks of good dry weather to a couple of months if its rainy & damp. I use post oak or white oak, since it is durable and doesn't seem to cause much problem with sticker stain.

[@mauricestaples4517]

I’m sold on this product. Dave you make it easy to understand. Thanks a bunch!

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks. It is a great mill, and sawing isn't too complicated, once you get the basics.

[@gyms3382]

Fantastic! Your videos have inspired me on a lot better way of using my mill, and have in proved my operations. Don't stop. Keep them coming. I need all the help I can get.

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks for the kind words. The whole trick is to stop and think over what takes the most time and effort, and tackle those issues first. Hope your mill is running smoothly!

[@KekongMichael-jr9ld]

Great work❤❤❤❤. please can I be part of you❤❤❤

[@thelonesteader6116]

As a new owner of a sawmill, your videos have REALLY helped me out in getting started. I am currently 'learning' how to cut lumber for several projects on my homestead. Thanks for all the info.

[@NorwoodsawmillsDirect]

So good to hear that our videos are helping you. :-) We also keep the collection in our online "TV" channel ... Sawmill TV. www.NorwoodSawmills.com/tv/ It is sort of "Netflix" for sawmill addicts. ;-)

[@daveboyt6810]

Welcome to sawmilling... got sawdust in your veins yet? Hope you enjoy it as much as I do! Be patient with yourself and think things through, and you'll do fine. After 15 years running a mill, I'm still amazed at the number of things I can do wrong!

[@richardevon6410]

I'm pretty sure Dave is why Missouri is called the "Show Me state". No muss, no fuss. Thanks, Dave.

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks! More than anything, ya gotta be more stubborn than a Missouri mule to run a sawmill!

[@adriansorin9291]

Great videos, like usual. I love how Dave explains things, and how humble and down to earth he is. Great idea also by Norwood to have him doing these vids, he is perfect for the task. Well done gents!

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks, Adrian. Glad you like the videos. Norwood makes a great mill, and they're terrific people to work with!

[@waaaaste]

Experience is remembering just how you screwed up last time. :-D

[@daveboyt6810]

Ooooh, good one! You'll probably hear it come back at you in a future video! My favorite is "Good judgment comes from experience... experience comes from bad judgment".

[@steveturner2269]

Great video! What species should you not use for stickers, if any?

[@daveboyt6810]

Ideally, stickers should be of a species with light color, and well air-dry, so that they will be less likely to stain the wood stacked on them. I like to use post oak, as it is plentiful, durable, and not much good for anything else, other than firewood. You can also buy commercial stickers with a spiral groove to let air through them, though I've never used them.

[@isaiahshaffer]

Can’t help but to be reminded of Red Green when I watch this guy, these videos are very informative

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks. Unlike Red Green, I don't much care whether women find me handsome or handy... as long as they find me! 🤪

[@isaiahshaffer]

@@daveboyt6810 😂 I can actually use the advice in your videos as well, another separating factor!

[@daveboyt6810]

@@isaiahshaffer Yeh, I gotta admit, his oil changing methods look a little complicated.

[@johnsquires2209]

Informative, thank you

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks, John, I appreciate the feedback.

[@whutyer]

You're a good man sir and we would all do better to have more men like you teaching those looking to learn more. Thanks for your efforts.👍

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks for watching, and for the comment! I'm still learning, too. Even some of the young fellas can teach an old guy a thing or two, even if it's just how NOT to do something. Experience is the best teacher.

[@SteenHolm134]

Thank you, Sir. So much knowledge in a humble and good learning way.

[@daveboyt6810]

Awwww, thanks for the comment. I'm still learning, always finding new ways to foul things up!

[@ekilajzer]

Thank you, I have learned a lot!

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks for watching. Still learning....

[@mervynedwards1197]

Dave your an absolute champion that was bloody awesome us Aussies like what other people do

[@daveboyt6810]

Thanks! One of these days I hope to head over your way and pick up some milling tips. Always learning!

[@duanebrown3360]

Just wanted to know how long does it needs to cure,before use

[@NorwoodsawmillsDirect]

Hi Duane 1" per year is the rule of thumb, but a year of drying in Phoenix, AZ is much different from a year of drying in Seattle, WA. Also, it depends on species: Walnut for example, dries more quickly than white oak. No matter how long you air dry lumber, it will never reach the kiln- dry moisture content required for indoor furniture. In summary, there are many variables as to how long it will take wood to dry: species, condition of wood, dimension sawn, manner in which the wood has been stickered and stacked, ambient temperatures and humidity levels, prevalence of wind, etc … all play a big part in drying. And, of course, what is “dry” enough depends on what you plan on doing with your wood. Best thing is to get a moisture meter and you can monitor your boards as they dry. You may want to get yourself a copy of Norwood's book - "The Ultimate Guide to Portable Sawmills". We have a whole chapter devoted to drying wood. There is another chapter devoted to making various cuts including quarter sawing. We have another chapter covering how to make money with your Norwood. Plus, there other chapters with great pro-sawmilling tips. It's just $8.70 for shipping (we give the book for FREE). www.norwoodsawmills.com/free-portable-sawmills-book

[@daveboyt6810]

Depends on how you'll use it. In most parts of the country, it won't dry to "kiln dry" (6% moisture content) no matter how long you let it air dry, so furniture, paneling & flooring needs to go into a kiln before you use it. Rustic furniture, such as trestle tables, are designed to handle changes in moisture content can be used air dried, basically to the 1 year per inch thickness rule of thumb.