Not starting hack toyota corolla verso 2.2 D4D ar10

When I discovered this car had a starting issue I scanned youtube for a solution, only to find nothing. I am currently trying to diagnose this issue. In the meantime a subscriber suggested this hack. I hope this helps ?

[@simonevs020]

I had a very similar problem with mine. After cleaning the egr valve, everything seems fine again. I should add that mine is an 07 plate with 160000 miles. Thanks for the video!

[@glchow]

Thanks for the advice. I had been monitoring the egr on the obd plug and I appeared to be ok. I had been planning to remove the egr and check, just haven't got round to it yet.

[@hilairesj]

I have the same problem with Corolla verso 2.2 D4D 2008. I had it for years. Mainly in the winter when temperature drop down below 15 C. It comes with white smelly smoke due the failed cranking but get normal after. As it was worse recently, I am willing to fix it. - replaced the glow plugs : No change - applied the same kind of starting procedure, press 3 to 5 times the start button without pressing the clutch : does help a lot but recently seems to be less effective. - replaced the svc valve : no change - took it to Toyota distributor for diagnostic : They don't have a clue - Starting pressing the accelerator to maximum when cranking, it showed a code P0113 and P0102 for the first time. I replaced the MAF sensor. Today it is quite cold, it was not a very good but I didn't get the white smoke.

[@glchow]

Thanks for all the info. I’m hoping collectively we can get to the bottom of this. It feels like either a faulty ecu or lift pump to me. The weird thing is once it’s been started it will be perfect for 24hrs. I have been using a stop watch to make sure I start it consistently and it always starts carrying out this procedure. BUT it can be stall if left to idle without driving. This makes me think the lift pump is not meeting the high demand when cold.

[@hilairesj]

@glchow Your "hack" seems to work for me. But I disagree with the cold start not depending on the weather. For me, it starts well in summer, problem starts in autumn when the temperature drops below 15 C. If it is outdoor temperature dependent, then it could be a sensor, anything. I was thinking of using warm water on sensors (timing chain sensor, throttle and so on. The ECU is a computer, it is digital, it is like a PC motherboard, when it fails it is dead. But some people on KZbin say, there are ECU updates. When the engine cranks, it looks like it is cranking on the battery then it switches to the alternator after 10 seconds.

[@hilairesj]

@glchow I have disconnected the fuel temperature sensor on the high pressure fuel pump and that seems to help.

[@exploringsussex]

⁠@@hilairesjthanks for the update. Let me know if how you get on with that technique.

[@hilairesj]

@@exploringsussex I haven't received the fuel temperature sensor yet but I did an interesting test : I connected the battery + pole directly on the glow plugs distribution bar for approximately 15 seconds, removed it and pressed the start button immediately. The car started without problem. So that proves it is related to the time the glow plugs stays on. I had the glow plugs replaced recently. The battery is good as well. That leaves me with either the fuel temperature sensor, the glow plug relay or the ECU ( the ECU input for the fuel temperature sensor because I don't think the ECU itself is bad). I think it is the fuel temperature sensor considering that it did not change much after unplugging it. The test for 15-20 seconds glow plugs is easy : Connect a wire from the battery + to the glow plug distribution bar using a battery charging cable for example ( don't make contact with the engine body) , leave it 15 seconds, remove it and press the start button immediately ( you have to press the clutch).

[@independentvoice6686]

@GLC The issue could be related to the fuel temperature sensor. I will look into this. My theory is that if the temperature sensor is the resistance temperature (RTD) then this agrees with my theory. Because the sensor requires prewarming prior to sense the temperature correctly. When the ECU is switched on for a longer period, it gives the time to warm it up. This type of sensor needs excitation current. The sensor just got degraded over time. So hopefully this will provide a temporary fix until I get a new fuel temperature sensor to proof the theory.

[@glchow]

I have read that this could be the fault. I believe you have to replace the high pressure pump, however this does not explain why if the engine is not started at 10s it fails to start? If it needs to reach a certain temperature it should start at any time after 10s?

[@independentvoice6686]

​​@@glchowI just did another cold start this morning. The temperature is at 7 DegC, normally would struggle to start at this temp. For this test, I allowed the glow plug to goes out after about 3 seconds, then I timed it for 12 seconds and then start. It fired up beautifully. So in total it is about 15 second and it still started. So it's nothing to do with the 10 second. I will replace the fuel temperature sensor to proof my theory. One other fault could be the ECU fuel temperature circuit that is not providing enough excitation current for the sensor. Then we have to live with the fix we have identified, i.e leave the ignition on to position 2 longer before cranking the engine.

[@independentvoice6686]

This seems to be a very common across the Toyota diesel cars. My 2.0 d4d 2010 have the same problem. I learnt this hack a few years ago, thjnk that the glow plugs have worn out. But i had repalced it this winter and the problem hasn't gone away. So its not a glow plugs.

[@glchow]

Agreed, the opportunity for me to buy RAV4 came up with the same engine. It started , but had a rough idle at cold. They may have engineered this out by now. The good thing about this video is that we are all talking about it. Together we will get to the bottom of this.

[@independentvoice6686]

@@glchow My car has been parked for over two days and expected to cycle the glow plug twice in succession to have a good clean start. But guess what? This morning, I just put the ignition on and then counted about 6 seconds and then cranked the engine and it started immediately without any hesitation. I will do this again tomorrow when it's first thing I the morning start. My theory is that the ECU or sensor requires warming up. The electronics has drifted over time. I will report back...

[@glchow]

Not starting hack, revisited and refined 100% working, no parts required kzbin.info/www/bejne/e4HYgZyenpd5mJo@@independentvoice6686I have just posted this

[@independentvoice6686]

Excellent that you had shared the hack.

[@mcplatinum187]

Have you tried replacing the injector? I've got three injector washers changed still problem remains. Jist dropped to garage amd mechanic said may be injectors 🤷🏽

[@glchow]

I have not replaced injectors. There is no evidence to support this. If it was injectors the Hack would not work. I would recommend you replace the suction control valve first. It regulates the injectors. I have just posted a video on how to reset all your ecu’s. Try that and let me know how you get on.

[@love2made]

Try to change heaters, diesel need more heat at winter especially for cold start

[@glchow]

Thanks for the advice. It’s got new glow plugs and relay. It seams to be an inherent fault on this model. There is a tpi to advise replacing the scv and carrying out an update. I’ve done the scv also

[@love2made]

@@glchow when temperature drops below - 10°C preheat 1 or 2times and than start. U dont need to wait 5-10s, just look at board for heater lamp

[@glchow]

@@love2made Thanks for the advice. The preheater lamp always goes out immediately. I will be uploading a second video to update this technique

[@Enri-video]

can be starter motor ? i see some video that fix it

[@glchow]

Watch this ; 2.2 D4D cold starting problem fixed with diagnosis kzbin.info/www/bejne/poPWZpuYhqeiodE

[@phillipelkins6612]

hi, how do you put ignition on without starting? regards, phil

[@glchow]

Thanks for commenting. You try and start the car with out putting down the clutch pedal. Since posting I have found that the 10 seconds is precise. I now use a timer because if I’m over 10s it still starts bad.

[@emrah462]

hi, I bought this car 10 months ago 260M km 2007, I have the exact same problem, after a month or two I discovered that if you leave the time as you do it starts well. but it seems to me that it starts better when the temperatures are cold. that's why I thought of the air flow sensor Has anyone had any feedback?

[@glchow]

I have just replaced the air mass meter and air intake temp sensor. Still faulty. I did this because of erratic temperatures seen from a ob2 reader, but it made no difference. I’m just doing some ecu resets to see it that helps

[@mcplatinum187]

Any update mines doing this as well

[@arinzeanuma4214]

I’m in desperate need of help to the solution to this problem, I’m facing it now and no issue shows on diagnosis by my mechanic

[@glchow]

So far this winter using this technique my car has started 1st time every time. I do use a stop watch so I keep it to 10s. One commenter said he had disconnected the temp sensor on the high pressure pump and had fixed it? Because this hack is working I have not tried it

[@arinzeanuma4214]

@@glchow can I get your number so you can guide me maybe on video call. The car is currently at the mechanic and he has no clue. Will changing the fuel pump solve the case?

[@glchow]

Sorry that is something I cannot do

[@N-gx9cy]

My experiences were very similar to those described here (Corolla Verso, 2006 2.2 D4D). Difficult starting when cold, but not always. Sometimes also difficult to start when the car had previously run. White smoke when it did start. Changed glow plugs, battery, had 'cold start' ECU upgrade and EGR valve cleaned, but these made no difference. I did notice that the electrics were struggling when starting - dashboard light dimming etc. when cranking, so decided to change the starter motor for a reconditioned one. This was done just before Christmas - 2 months on it has started every time, so, for me at least, that has solved the problem.

[@arinzeanuma4214]

@@N-gx9cyI already ordered a fuel pump, if it doesn’t work, I’ll order the starter motor

[@kevincarter4163]

When it starts like that i get alot of black smoke from the exhaust

[@glchow]

I get smoke too. It's almost as if there is too much fuel. This could be a leaky injector, but when you follow the hack it starts fine so I think the smoke is from the prolonged crank. I'm not sure how to prove it without replacing it but I think the low pressure pump is sticking.

[@kevincarter4163]

Thanks for your reply. Is the low pressure pump easy to replace? I'm willing to try most things

[@tennolauri612]

Any updates?

[@glchow]

Thanks for watching and commenting. Somebody suggested the egr valve maybe sticking. I have inspected that and cleaned it. Still no change. I suspect it is the lift pump. I'm not in a position to attempt that repair yet. I have a new additive to try first. I would imagine it is gummed up.

[@georzal]

@@glchow please. Wa all waiting for the solution 🙂

[@bradmason5064]

SCV valve

[@glchow]

Replaced it, it made no difference