Nut and Bolt Method Explained - Lightwerkz Mounting Method

[@vincewazzah7917]

This channel is so underrated. People from the other channel should take points from your videos. By far best methods in terms of long term durability and a cleaner look.

[@PrinceNeverLazy]

Thanks. Hopefully one day A full step by step retrofit from beginning to end would answer a lot of the detail questions.

[@camryle5590]

Very helpful. I will apply this method for putting the mini H1 in the high beam housing on my 2009 Camry addition to the mini D2S in the low beam housing

[@amjathkhan2004]

Do they normally come with the nut and bolt required for the job or we need to buy them seperately? Thanks!

[@LightwerkzGlobal]

They do not, you'll want to go to hardware store.

[@bobbyvu82g]

What size/length bolt and nut do you typically use?

[@TheKingOfHalo]

Man that’s useful to get the hotspots aimed correctly. I retrofitted some mini 7.0’s into my 2000 Explorer and the headlights are aimed in a way that caused my hotspots to aim inward when I used the threaded shaft. I had to aim my headlights as far as they’d go horizontally and they look a little weird. I’ll use some nuts for spacing when I switch to d2s to aim the projectors slightly outward.

[@davidzap2822]

Wow so much info thank you so much I’m going to attempt my own retrofit using this method. If I’d o not succeed I will be dropping my setup off to you I’m local

[@future62]

How do you dill the holes? I wish you would do a run through of one mounting

[@LightwerkzGlobal]

With a drill bit :) Don't think we need a video for that do we?!

[@future62]

Lightwerkz Global Inc. I mean how do you hold the projector steady so the holes get drilled in the right place? it seems like it would be hard to do with 2 hands. Do you map where the holes should be or do you take the projector apart and actually dill through it? it's not a stupid question

[@LightwerkzGlobal]

A lot of you guys over think it. You can use the projector or make a template. Mark the holes with a marker or a pick (to etch surface) and then drill it out. The template we have acts as a map and anyone can make there own.

[@future62]

OK, I will give that a try.

[@PrinceNeverLazy]

Same question I had

[@flyinbrianvids]

I see how you get your vertical and horizontal adjustments dialed in, but at what point and how do you get the rotational dialed in?

[@LightwerkzGlobal]

Rotation gets dailed in once the projectors are mounted. The rotation is "eyed" from the start by strategically drilling the holes. So it will be close to start with. Check out the other video series - kzbin.info/aero/PLRtSL67o6XZ7qoO8LEypVtJcEs2Wc2iQ6

[@flyinbrianvids]

***** Thank you very much! I already did a "putty" retro on my 2011 altima,I thought the rotation was pretty spot on but after it was all said and done left projector was cocked counter clockwise a tad and they were pigeon toed (further the distance, closer the stepups got together). Oh and I am attempting to do a quad retro on my altima with the nut and bolt method, looks like it's going to be a bitch though but i'm gonna get er' done. I will post pics on headlight junkies when I get her done. Thank you again.

[@busared06]

I haven't done one yet, but all my research has shown guys creating a "crescent" or curved slot instead of just a single round hole. This allows you to fine tune rotation

[@cryptic_badger795]

Excellent video thanks and one that I'll do my best to copy for my retrofit project. One question please, what is the minimum distance/gap you'd recommend between the inside face of the headlamp front and the tip of crown of the projector lens behind that?

[@LightwerkzGlobal]

As long as its not touching its OK to run it like that. We have gotten VERY close before in really tight applications.

[@cryptic_badger795]

@@LightwerkzGlobal Excellent and thanks for that.....I think I'll have about 3/8" gap, so that'll do nicely!

[@JoeyLovesTrains]

Do you guys sell a kit for the nut and bolt method? Or should we just head down to our local Home Depot/Lowes/Menards?

[@LightwerkzGlobal]

We do not but we use 8-32 machine screws/nuts.

[@richardwhitaker4148]

Do you think I can do this method with the Morimoto Bi-LED 2.0 projectors with their large heat-sink and fan at the bottom of the bowl? I think will be the best option in terms of having the beat clearance. Considering the 1999 Ford Expedition limited spacing front and back of the heading.

[@ShadowDragon246]

I'm currently doing nut and bolt on my MLED 2.0 on my 2012 escape

[@BTL3.0]

How do you determine which nut and bolt will be the fixed one? And the other for up/down and left/right?..will they be opposite of each other? If the up/down bolt is lower right corner, will the up/down be upper left corner? And the fixed bolt in the upper right corner? I got as far as having the project (g5r) recessed, but now stuck. Dont know where to drill the holes. This is for a 2010 toyo rav4. Thanks

[@dhangejr]

I have the same question. I think you just choose one and mirror it. But I choose to follow the example shown. Top inside is fixed. top outsi3 is L+R and bottom inside is U+D. Then once it is PERfect you can add a 4th fixed for strength and fine craftsmanship.

[@iliketowncars]

Nut and bolt is the way

[@rBear1989]

Nuts and bolts are understandable =) But still cant understand how to aim it properly/ Anyway thx for video from faraway land of Kazahstan.

[@reverseperstalsis]

Three nuts! Got it.