3D Machining! Can we get a great surface finish?

[@cogentdynamics]

“Rest Machining”. Excellent. I machine a lot of air. This is all new to me and I enjoy your videos. Thanks.

[@benstrobel6055]

That really came out beautiful! Having that 10k spindle makes a huge difference in Aluminum, its almost a necessity. I agree completely with your hypothesis about the chip clearing being the issue. From personal experience not having my coolant nozzles correctly aimed causes similar blemishes. That's a result of recutting chips, which pushes them into the surface and causes those spots. As you said, it is nothing to do with the machine, either! I'm a college student who runs an Okuma VMC and ran into the same issue, changing the coolant nozzle positions solved the problem

[@DStrayCat69]

WOW!!! The more I watch - the more everything is coming together... This is one AWESOME video... I love the way your mind works... I can't give you any tips or tricks as I am just learning about machining, but you never fail to amaze me... Great job :-)

[@davefribush5992]

Thank you! That part about the rest machining setting - I've spent that last 3 hours trying to figure out how to do that - why it isn't a first and foremost thing taught in the basic CAM videos out there I don't know, but thanks for figuring that out and pointing it out!

[@Zorgoban]

Thanks for the video! In the 3D Adaptive Clearing settings under Linking you got the No-Engagement Feedrate that could additionally speed up your cutting job. I don't exactly remember where I heard it, but one of the problems with the ball end mills is the cutting speed at the center of the tip is close to zero, that is why it's rubbing there and why really beautiful 3D-Machining like this is better done on a 4 axis machine to keep cutting at the outer edges of the tool.

[@JeffreyVastine]

Great job John! Contour machining opens an immense and intense world of possibities.

[@KenToonz]

John, the 3D thingies are called face, edge and vertex.

[@Psychlist1972]

Your videos have made me really want a 440! Also, thanks for introducing me to Fusion 360. I've been a Rhino user forever, and used to use RhinoCAM, but it's multiple thousands of dollars. Fusion 360 is free for hobby use which is just spectacular!

[@thepereafamiley480]

Hey John great vid. A way you can keep the chip smear to a minimum without running coolant is to use a little WD-40. This will all but eliminate built up edge "BUE" on aluminum. This could also help you get some good shots that some coolant systems would obscure.

[@fytanman]

Thanks John! Great video! Was using Fusion 360 yesterday and was flying . The results were great and you are a huge part of that. Thanks again for all you do!

[@Psychlist1972]

Your max shallow stepover was 0.02 in the contour instead of 0.002. You can see it at 10:01. From what you said when you entered it, I assume that wasn't deliberate.

[@andrewbrabank3087]

I was hoping someone else noticed that.

[@michaelfeeney1311]

Thank you for the 440 videos. Saw it in person at the Little Machine Shop; Andy was demoing. Very cool and I'm very excited to get mine!

[@daveb1870]

I started out with Bobcad too way back in 95 and have used quite a few cam, cad, fea software since then. Fusion 360 looks to be a pretty impressive package.

[@stagz141]

Nice video! I'm just learning fusion360 myself its great! If you use even a little bit of cutting oil or wd40 on the part while you do your surface milling you wont get the chip gulling on the surface when cutting aluminum brand new cutters will still give that chip sticking to the surface. that part looks fun!!

[@LarrysMachineShop]

Awesome as always. Thanks for giving your time so graciously. Regards LAurence

[@reeves29456]

john, one thing to consider when 3d machining with a ball mill is that the majority of the time your not using the full diameter of your tool. so your speed and feed calculations are way too slow. most of the time you are using just the last 10 to 20 percent of the radius. if you calculated for the diameter you are actually using you will see you don't have anywhere near the rpm to put it in the sweet spot. you either have to live with the finish, increase your tool diameter, or use a spindle speeder.

[@sohcahtoa5786]

Thanks for the video John. Watching your videos while waiting on the delivery truck to show up with the new PCNC 1100 this afternoon. Bring on the Lakeshore videos... really would like to see them before ordering endmills.

[@pastorhealer]

Your video's are always fun to watch... Thanks so much for taking the time!

[@henrikandersson1299]

Hello! The roughing strategy could be alot faster and more effective- take advantage of the dynamic tool path strategy! Use full stepdown with small radial stepovers. Then also use maximum step up distance. combined the roughing is fast, and the need of semi-roughing can be eliminated due to the small steps left from "Walking up the hill" that´s controlled by stepover and step up! Almost like manually setting a cusp hight, but for roughing... Use a endmill whit a rather big corner radius, maybe 2mm on a 12mm endmill, this too will make the finishing easyer with a more consistent material removal (a more equal load on the tool). As someone below mentions, finish upwards let the chip be cut on a point on the ball endmill whit a grater surface speed. Also helps chip evacuation! This is not easily explained in a youtube comment text, hope you understand my point! //Henrik

[@V6Goose]

Wow, that is so good! My Sherline is under pressure to perform now *lol* Thanks a lot for all your videos, inspiring, encouraging and amazing.

[@atomkinder67]

Chip smearing! Even an air blast would've helped with that, and not even terribly uncommon a problem with large-volume flood coolant. Oh and nice job! Play around with Order Bottom Up. I like it much better than the normal top-down unless the geometry really calls for it. Keeps the tool from "cutting" at the center where surface speed is zero.

[@evenvega6974]

Hi, I'm having a few issues with the smearing/chip-clearning causing those blemishes too. What do you mean by the Order Bottom Up? I'd like some advice on how to address the surface finish on my parts. Thanks!

[@stephentmiller]

John thanks for this video you you actually covered some things I was having issues with in Fusion360 with a part I'm working on. Getting ready for My 770 which is being delivered this week....I'm so stoked...my hopes are to cut my first part in the next few weeks.

[@Mesa86]

shouldve used coolant or oil mist. i used to spray wd40 or oil from a spray bottle. basically never cut aluminum dry.

[@ScottMoyse]

Smoothing.... Personally I think it's an OK thing to call it. It is actually smoothing out the faceted toolpath by fitting arcs to the series of tiny lines that make up a complex 3D toolpath. In doing so it reduces the amount of code at the machine, but it also decreases accuracy. It's a kind of confusing thing to call it for Fanuc users, because it's completely different to the Smoothing options in the post dialog, which is used to enable high speed machining and look ahead. Another nice video John!

[@Bryan6446]

We get nicks like that in tin bronze when machining at high speeds and feeds. This is the metal tearing away rather than being cut.

[@MakeItWithCalvin]

whenever I can I choose an odd flute over an even, so a 3fl I would say may help a little in preventing chatter but yeah you want some kind of lubrication there/chip clearing. it helps greatly! that said really helpful video on the 3d! I may give it a try later today

[@DiodePress]

Turned out great! Have fun at Autodesk University. I went a few years ago and was hoping to make it this year, but it didn't work out :(

[@ejose]

Thank you for your videos and your passion for machining. Best regards

[@ocmooz]

For surfacing I like a Garr ball endmill for both roughing and finishing. I'll typically rough out at 75-90 ipm 8000 rpm with a 3/8 or 1/2 and finish at 90-110 in aluminium. I think the surface burrs you encountered were from a lack of coolant more than tool choice and in my world this finish would be more than acceptable. This machine seems very stout for its price point and I am looking forward to seeing more tests of its cutting capabilities.

[@eadccomponents8897]

Hahaha thanks for explaining rest machining! I tried to explain it yesterday lol! I will link this video :D Wonderful little machine bro. I deleted all my other stuff to simply say this. See your rapids? In the link section, (last tab on right of toolpath box) where you set ramping etc. In your 3d clearing strategy... check the box that says maximum stay down as a %. It can drastically reduce your roughing time. Keeps rapids short and to the point. Also different grades of alloy give different surface finishes, always use air/coolant, and check your ball mill for nicks, you can get single insert carbide ball mills that are the shiz. Good work, great machine.

[@PhilWaud]

Thats an amazing finish, thanks for showing us your experiment!

[@davidmarks509]

I"m just starting out with CNC router. Total beginner, I get to play with a large industrial CNC router next Friday. Wont be anything super cool like what your doing, but you gotta start somewhere. I noticed you didn't need to use coolant when your cutting that metal block? Great video by the way.

[@aarondickenson7146]

I hope they are giving you a kick back on 360, cause now I"m probably going to have to get it for my Emco F1.

[@68648]

little tip, you shoudnt use an ball mill on profiles with more than 30 degreeo f angle, instead you should use and end mill with a big corner radius, i my opinion would had to 2 finishing programs, 1 for the outside with the end mill, and the interior using an raster finish with the ball mill at 45 degree angle

[@LakeErieToolworks]

Nice video, that 440 looks compelling. I would have set the max roughing step down a bit more (1/4" or even 3/8") on the adaptive clearing and then set the fine stepdown what you were going for in terms of final step depth, that way you clear out most of the waste 1/4" or 3/8" depth at a time and then it retracts the minimum amount and 'rest' machines whats left if that makes sense. Example, it will cut 3/8" deep and then retract to 1/4" and then 1/8", rather then cutting at 1/8" then at 1/4" then at 3/8". Thanks for the tip on shallow area machining, I didn't know contour could adjust to accommodate flatter areas.

[@bensonhadlock4389]

I believe that's galling. you should be able to eliminate that if you use cooling or a lubricant. Aluminum gets hot, tears and sticks to the tool.

[@Stacyjtyler]

Does the tormach 440 setup for through hole coolant. Not saying run coolant but maybe a mist and air in a through hole bit. I've seen add on atachments when machines don't have a through spindle coolant. Maybe the air and mist coming through the bit will blow the chips of of the way and you won't get any recutting of the old chips.

[@natebrown5588]

I started with Autocad back in 1990 and it was good for 2d but ..... You need SolidWorks CAD and Esprit CAM I use both for design and programming and they are the best for design / evaluation and programming.

[@maceglass]

Moving again? Thats crazy cool, I might have to look into getting a 440, great work as always.

[@GregsGarage]

Darn good finish for what you are doing. You're right, the cad is so simple now. Good luck with autodesk university. I've had 50/50 success with their offerings. If you have a sharp instructor, the classes are great. If you get someone teaching straight from the autodesk tutorial book it will be agonizing.

[@ScottMoyse]

+NYC CNC Have a backup class for each class you go to, if the one you are in is crap in the first 15 minutes. It's nearly always worth getting up and going to the other class.

[@OneProduct-Spotlight]

Thank you bro for giving me a beautiful solution to my biggest question of how to smoothen something with a CNC machine. Really appreciated thanks again... May Allah bless you

[@snowblow1984]

What was the step-over on the finishing with ball mill? Excellent video!

[@RallyRat]

I like to set my feed rate per tooth to the same as the stepover. That way the scallops along the tool path direction are the same size as the scallops between passes when using a ball end mill. So a .010" stepover would go well with a .010" FPT or 200ipm at 10000rpm with a 2 flute ball end mill. If you wanted a finer finish, say .008" stepover, you'd also reduce the feed rate to 160ipm and expect a 56% increase in machining time.

[@johnberry6077]

The music drives me up a wall. You might as well play _ABBA._ Otherwise, I love the creative and challenging projects that you go after, and all of the insights on how to get the most out of _Fusion360._ I especially like the moments when you show how to "interface" _Fusion360_ with the _Excel_ spreadsheet.

[@laurentvidonne7750]

Great video ! Any update about 5 axis machining with Fusion 360 ?

[@underourrock]

Would you save total cycle time if you shear hogged out first, then came in with the 1/4" rougher using "rest material" and then went to ball end mill with rest material? (I suspect, and this is only a guess) that if your step downs are different enough with the hogger versus the rougher, you wind up really decimating the material that the ball end mill has to deal with. Perhaps the hogger pass would let you run the 1/4" rougher pass faster?

[@maikeydii]

Most probably the dull, rubbed in chips are due to the ball end mill center having no surface speed at all. For sometime now most of the 3D milling work in mold making industry is done with toroidial / corner radius cutters. Buy some and try them out, but be warned - there might be no turning back... ;)

[@douglasRbrown]

LOL, I bought BOB CAD/CAM in 2006 for some crazy price of just over $2500 on my Amex. I didn't know any better. and to be honest I called them about an upgrade about the time I started watching your Ch. and started using Fusion 360. (Learning Fusion 360) the upgrade to current version with less functionality $1800.

[@skippyman22]

The ball endmills I have are not centre cutting. Do you recommend centre cutting ones? Is there even such a thing? Great video by the way, I love your channel.

[@johnberry6077]

*note:* the KZbin targeted advertising interrupted with an ad for Glemorangie Scotch. Is there some connection with CNC and Scotch that I should know about it? The stuff is about $50 a bottle. Does it clean the part (using citrus-based Terpenes) while also functioning as a Good Coolant?

[@kashifq6504]

I strongly recommend and request you yo collaborate with Dustin with Smarter Everyday (channel name). I think with his super ultra slow motion cameras can help ignorant machinists like me actually see what tool runout does to your parts. This is just the beginning of what you can do with slow motion cameras on machining. We can also explore thermal cracking on inserts, we can look deeper into HEM...possibilities are limitless. Please look into this.

[@timroxck]

is it just me or are some of the rapid moves during the adaptive clearing slower or as slow as the cutting feedrate?

[@JaczSolar]

I'm sorry if I missed the explanation, or misunderstood, but there's something I don't quite understand -- I'm assuming that the square block displayed in simulation is supposed to represent the physical block of material that's going (needs?) to be placed in the machine, but how were those dimensions determined? Or does the program tell you, based on your finished model, the dimensions of the block that you need to make for it? If you oversize, or undersize that block, wouldn't the mill start cutting before it thinks it has started cutting? Or think it's cutting when it's not? Does this have anything to do with zeroing the machine coordinates? (I have no experience whatsoever with CNC or machining, just find these videos very entertaining.)

[@onlyychevys]

It would take my little X-Carve hours to cut that lol. Hauled ass and smooth as can be! Great video!

[@bobthecannibal1]

"Rest machining" means "I have hogged out the majority of the material with a big tool, now I'm using a smaller tool. I want you to get the *REST*, such as the corners and spots the big one couldn't get to." As an example, if you're doing AR FCG pockets, you can hog them out with a slightly larger (1/2 inch, say) endmill and send in a smaller (3/8", for example) one for the shelf because of the right wall's thickness (0.438"). You can skip selecting it if you want, because it generally asks you for more information and doesn't do anything you can't do yourself with more control.

[@bobthecannibal1]

And you figured it out. :D

[@ravenmooore]

Amazing Channel, I'm starting to do some CNC myself. Can I ask? Is it possible to CNC aluminum at a decent speed without coolant? What endmill would you recommend? Possible Speeds and Feeds? Also, other than 6061, any other close alternatives?

[@gredangeo]

Now why doesn't the 1100 have a 10k spindle? Would be nice. 5k is not enough. 8k would be a decent middle ground. I understand it's a torque issue, but hopefully they can figure that out when I get into a position to buy one.

[@AndTheCorrectAnswerIs]

Just read that you ordered two 440's for your shop. Does that mean you're not going for a big industrial VMC any more?

[@brandonscott3628]

love the videos, I'm actually learnt a ton from you and it's cool cause I'm kinda following a similar path I just started with 3d printing. I'm from Southern Ohio, Ironton area. what do you think are the advantages of the 770 tormach over the 440 tormach ?

[@gcardinal]

17:21 What is that part with a small belt right behind your left shoulder next to white box? Just out of curiosity :)

[@m98custom1212]

use air blast or coolant . you was recutting chips. sometimes you get little spots if the machine can't read the program enough fast either

[@JDesignSwe]

+NYC CNC, Doh spoiler ! :)

[@timr86868]

If you had to recommend one single machine for a hobbyist to buy, what would it be?

[@GlassImpressions]

Great video, what screen recording software do you use? Love the keystroke monitoring feature.

[@CncObsession]

+Glass Impressions It really helps verify his spoken word. Brilliant.

[@GlassImpressions]

***** Thumbs up

[@CncObsession]

NYC CNC John, It will really be an advantage for those of us who use the keyboard and mouse instead of just keystrokes. I have a hard time having gotten this far only to see just what basic information I missed or should have received or sought. Never too late.

[@Hirudin]

When I'm 3D machining, I like to start at the bottom and make the tool work its way up. That way the side of the ball mill gets used more and I figure the edges will stay sharp longer and give better results. The other thing I thought I noticed, but I'm not too sure about, is that you could have done the roughing steps differently and got approximately the same results. I *think* you could have had the tool rough out more of the shape using the side of the tool (again, in the interest of tool life) by making one of the stepdown distances larger, possibly even the full 3/4". Or maybe two big steps of 3/8" each. Then, once the major roughing is finished, HSMWorks will step up by the amount put into the second step distance field. I'm guessing Fusion360 will do that too. All this is so the tool cuts with the side more (extending tool life) and so the machine *doesn't have to* to cover the same XY toolpaths over and over, just at different Z depths (reducing machining time).

[@Hirudin]

Thanks! I'll see if I can whip something together. It might just be a silent video of me messing with the settings...

[@Hirudin]

+NYC CNC You're most welcome!

[@ScottMoyse]

+Hirudin What did you use to model that lump? Did you do it in Solidworks, or import it?

[@heavenisalie]

+Hirudin setting up a simple thing for my first 3d machining on my mill, watched this video to get a start for step downs and decided to read the comments. So glad I did! now I get the point between the bigger and the fine step down options! is there a way to spec a different feed rate for the fine step downs?

[@ScottMoyse]

Brennan Sheremeto No there isn't. But that's a really good feature request though!! So I created one for you to go and vote on if you like forums.autodesk.com/t5/ideastation-request-a-feature-or/independent-feeds-amp-speeds-for-3d-adaptive-clearing-fine/idi-p/5935548

[@Optimumd180]

That little baby rocks!!! How much does it costs?

[@Optimumd180]

Damn, I should move in the US!!!

[@paco0184]

Hi John, I am a viewer from Mexico, I like a lot your videos. What will be you recommended machine to start with Tormach CNC mills? 440 or 1100.

[@berkaybuyukluoglu1252]

What is tormach Controller ? Cnc’s have fanuc,Siemens or mitsunishi. But i dont know tormach’s ? Does Tormach have a computer aided cnc like a simple woodworking cnc(Router)or does it have the capacity to make 4-5 mass production parts per day? It is impossible to get this information directly from the website. Also, does it have a precision of 0.01?

[@SwitchAndLever]

That's so nice John! You're really selling me on the Tormach, too bad I'm on the wrong continent. Is Fusion360 able to do spiral machining paths? I've had some issues with contouring paths where the start/stop of every contour is in the same place, and creates a irregular line down the side of the piece. Spiral machining paths solved that entirely for me at least. Though, it doesn't look like you have that issue.

[@SwitchAndLever]

+NYC CNC Europe! I visited Maker Fare NY recently and spoke with them. They said that they have shipped some stuff to Europe, but it complicates service issues and such, unfortunately. But hey, who knows, wait a few years and maybe they'll grow enough to start a subsidiary over here (or I'll move to the states).

[@Hirudin]

+Switch & Lever I've had that issue too. How annoying! Were you using climb milling? That's what I was doing, but something I read on CNC Cookbook makes me think I should try conventional for the finishing pass. They say that direction of deflection varies based on the type of milling (conventional/climb) and the with of cut. Apparently, when conventional milling the deflection is typically close to parallel with the toolpath. I think I'll give it a try before too long. www.cnccookbook.com/CCCNCMillFeedsSpeedsClimbConventional.htm

[@SmokyFrosty]

+Switch & Lever +NYC CNC You have really sold me on getting a Tormach PCNC 440 and shipping it to the UK but it would be about £440 ($677) shipping costs. So is it worth it (once the ATC comes out hopefully next year?)

[@Hirudin]

I'm not sure what the shipping for that machine would be within the USA, but I wouldn't be surprised if it was around $300 (USD), so $677 doesn't sound *too* bad.

[@neznamkaj]

I would rather use normal roughing first with big radial step over and smaller step down so then I left with smaller stairs, and then do something like ball mill "3D constant step over" (in SolidCAM) operation with a little bit bigger step over (1 mm aka 0,04") and offset from surface like 0,1 mm (0,004") and then use same operation but with no offset and with smaller step over to get a nice surface.

[@RyanWeishalla]

I want to see how you would then work hold that part to be able to finish milling the bottom side of the part. :-) That's machine has a lot of ability that I can see you learning to use more.

[@whatwasithinking8159]

John, what is the machining center sitting on? It looks like a Lista rolling cabinet???

[@Krispykashew]

Whats with the baby cuts during the roughing ops?

[@sonofsun4]

7075 would leave much better finish, with just smidgen of oil on surface and finish pass of .003 to .005 would help too to minimize temp.

[@Icutmetal]

7075 is a dream to cut vs. 6061

[@Every_Journey_has_a_Story]

Why do you cut it climbing? I tought conventional cutting made a cleaner cut.

[@coreydolan]

do you still have this part? I would love to try this at work

[@Mekratrig]

Wherr do you tell the Tormach 440 machine what music to yuse while doing the job? Does it djust do Techno or dose it have othar genres?

[@davidlwhitesidearmy]

great teaching points

[@pedromorales7443]

you mentioned an event in Las Vegas , could you share the link ?

[@pedromorales7443]

Thanks! :3

[@hockeygeek21]

Hey man, Love your videos! Had a few questions for you. In the last year or so I have just kind of dove into the machining industry with no machining background or schooling, started out running EDM machines and shortly after have gotten to the CNC Milling on an old supermax mill with a retrofit anilam conversational system, nothing fancy. The first type of software that I have been exposed to is BobCad, and to be quite honest im not really impressed at all, fusion 360 looks like a much more user friendly interface. Been kind of experimenting with all sorts of speeds and feeds, but my machine only allows manual speed selection, so it somewhat limits what I can do through programing and such. I guess what my question is, with out growing company, what would you recommend the next step being? We do a lot of jobs what are just small custom parts (ei 3inx3in), But its ALL tool steel (01 A2 D2). It looks like the tormach machines are pretty good and work well with the fusion 360. I guess this would be a conversation to be had somewhere other than the youtube comments! Haha, Great work tho.

[@hockeygeek21]

+NYC CNC yeah I guess that is my question, I'm starring to grow out of the features of my current machine and maybe looking to add/upgrade. just wondered if you would reccomened a tormach based on the fact that the only material I'm a working with is toolsteel, also would it be worth ditching bobcad and switching to fusion 360.

[@ScottMoyse]

+Tyler Sisco definitely worth ditching Bobcad. There's a generic Anilam post sitting there waiting for you as well.

[@hockeygeek21]

+Scott Moyse yeah I do definitely use the anilam conversational system, and actually works very well.

[@aj7utu]

Very impressive. Working on the coolant delivery might improve the recut chips.

[@hooftey01]

I agree, running at 10k spindle speed is causing the heat between cutter and stock to kind of fuse the chips back on the part. also i found out climb miling always gives a better finish.

[@robertlindseyjr8396]

Moving again? That sucks. Cool vid.

[@AnthonyWebb7]

Anytime people machine things (especially 3D ish things) I often wonder.. "how in the world would you create the other side? I assume you would need some sort of a jig to hold the part? How would you set up your point of origin on the other side?

[@Hirudin]

+Anthony Webb Yeah, doing the second half of that object would be difficult! Obviously, John was just trying to make something swoopy quickly, but if he was trying to make the whole thing he'd probably want to take some more time designing features on the part that could be used for fixturing and registration. It's possible some soft jaws could be made that would hold the part squarely enough that fixturing for the second set of operations wouldn't be a nightmare. The best way I've found to have an accurate origin point on something oddly shaped like that would be to use a point on the fixture, instead of trying to find a certain point on the actual part. You'd want to use the same point that you used when you initially milled the fixture (or soft jaws). Another strategy would be to accurately square the block before starting. Then you could just use the other half of the block as your origin point. Tormach also sells this plastic stuff that softens when it's heated with boiling water. I've never used it, but I gather the idea is you plop down a wad of this plastic (which has the consistency of molding clay) and sorta squish the part into it and let it harden.

[@robcassie7988]

At our shop each machine has a removable 2 inch thick "table" that is drilled, tapped and then reamed the top half inch or so. It takes an extra operation to add tooling holes and pin holes and also a larger material size to accommodate the ability to add pins and bolts to hold it down. Doing it this way you can easily flip the part over and locate it very accurately. We program tooling tabs that have to be sawed and deburred down for the part to be completely finished.

[@robcassie7988]

+NYC CNC Ty so much for these videos. You have sold me on the 440. I've changed my mind on a new bike, I want this in my garage instead lol.

[@shootgp]

+Hirudin Are you speaking of Fixturing Alloy? Like such: www.flexbar.com/shop/pc/FIXTURING-ALLOY-1LB-CAKE-p4035.htm I've been curious about this stuff for a while now...

[@Hirudin]

+shootgp I'm not sure if I've ever seen that stuff before. The plastic stuff I was talking about looks like the same kind of plastic milk jugs are made from.

[@mamoshimiloni9559]

I can see that this video is a bet old, but I am So frustrated with Fusion right now and I just dont know what to do!! I just can not get the z acces to point the right direction and then when I get it to work with so many problems as soon as I go to adaptiv clearing or some other operation it changes its direction again!!!? anyone knows why? Thank you

[@animalmother2242]

moving again!!!???!? good luck man. keep us posted.

[@markr6017]

WHAT ! ! ! YOUR MOVING AGAIN ?!?!?!?!?!?!?!

[@bensonhadlock4389]

Thanks for the video..

[@Maciieeekk]

U R truly the BEST!

[@gamerpaddy]

is this fusion 360 ultimate or the normal version you running?

[@newsogn5148]

woooooow that is so stinking cool!!!!!!

[@robertkutz]

cool video.

[@BeatlesCuber]

I use solidworks to design Puzzles (rubiks cubes and the like) do you have any injection molds that you have shown being machined?

[@BeatlesCuber]

+NYC CNC thanks for the reply.

[@WillThat]

It's funny that ClickSpring uses this same music and he also does machining videos.

[@jeffbayley1755]

can you do more Fusion 360 vids

[@apexmike849]

Cloud-based is fine until you can't connect or continue, account-wise, for some reason.

[@camilewis87]

I think the finish was just because you didnt have coolant. you shouldnt have any problem running at 100 ipm with 10000 rpm with that step over. probably just rubbing little tiny dust (chips) into the part thats all. I wish you had hatted it off and made the entire part. lol

[@brukernavnfettsjit]

I think just blowing the chips away with air would help with that.

[@BDBK666]

I really wish they put a bigger spindle motor on that thing... Major bummer for me. Anyway, thanks for the video!

[@BDBK666]

Well, It's hard to say for sure through watching videos of it, but it sure sounds like it's not holding consistent RPM, in every video I have seen (not just yours), even on fairly light cuts in aluminum. It just sounds like it has no balls at all. Have you tried drilling anything with it yet? Maybe try that 1/2" drill you like at the speeds/feeds you use on the 1100? This is the main thing I'm concerned with. What about tool life vs the 1100? If it drops 500-1000 rpm for a second every time it enters the cut (no idea if it even is, just sounds like it), that can't be good for tools, especially if you're already running a high chipload. In all honesty, it's more than likely fine for 95+% of people, but not for me at this point. I realize it's not fair to compare it to the 1100, but still, it should be able to hold speed more consistently in my opinion. I remember you mentioning something about the spindle in a previous video, can you investigate more about it? Maybe you could do a video of pushing it to its limit like you did with the 1100? Is it actually dropping RPM, or does it just sound like it?

[@BDBK666]

NYC CNC Awesome, thank you. That is good news!

[@benjamin.kelley]

What song was used in this?

[@_P0tat07_]

I’m a terrible machinist. Granted I’m still in school, but I just screw everything up no matter how much time I spend in mastercam, no matter how many times I look my program over, I alway break endmills. I wish I wasn’t so dumb.

[@leventezari7540]

wooow - great