OBS 1987-1996 Ford Truck Oil Pressure Gauge Explained

There are a lot of people on forums and Facebook spouting ridiculous false information about these gauges. It's a very simple system and is utterly useless.
I made this to try and explain (in a basic manner) how this gauge works and what's actually going on.
As stated in the video, I don't know everything so if I have left something out drop it in the comments.
I also understand that some of the older bullnose trucks used an actual sender. I have one on my 92 IDI that is for an 80-85 or something along those lines.
Enjoy the video!

[@davidbourquebourquie8254]

Was having an anxiety attack because I thought I would have to replace the oil pump/ engine, just eased my mind, Thank You for the info!!!

[@murphytoadster9864]

Dude I'm not even having any issues with my oil pressure but I came across your video and dude you enlightened us all with major chunks of information from how the switch is bs plus how to jump the circuit board. Thanks man

[@tylerrolen1972]

Very helpful. I’ve been having the same gauge problem and thought it actually read pressure, I didn’t know it was an actual switch instead of a sending unit.

[@hunterfoster1714]

From the bottom of my heart THANK YOU! Finally I know what I need for my truck now. Thanks for the truthful info!

[@YammiePro]

Truth,after a year of looking at below zero on my gauge I just pulled the wire off the sending unit and grounded it,works great now lol

[@GA-dw2dg]

Just added a mechanical oil pressure, water temp gauge in A pillar instrument cluster. Followed your advice and I am very pleased w/results. I no longer worry about idiot light readings and the A pillar gauge trim looks great! Thanks buddy, armchair mechanics need their toes stepped on sometimes!

[@jwlandscape]

Thanks man!

[@jwlandscape]

I am glad so many have found my information helpful. I havent been getting any notifications for my videos and had no idea there were so many questions (or views). I apologize for not responding. I don't have the old IDI anymore. I traded it and some cash for a 2010 F150 FX4 about two years ago. I've been thinking of making some videos on that if anyone would be interested. I havent had to do a lot to it but I have found some tricks. I've mainly been working on VW and Audi cars lately.

[@rmbb1981]

That’s incredible. Ford made a gauge and it basically just shows On/Off but we’re made to believe it measures in a range. I almost can’t believe it.

[@kevinstanley9489]

Gramps always says "there's no such thing as a stupid question". Old school wisdom.

[@thalliumrc3981]

Thank you so much for this useful information. I was sh!ten a brick thinking I didnt have any oil pressure at idle on my 460! Gonna get a glow shift gauges and find out what's really going on.

[@RogerSayers]

Thank you so very much for sharing this with us. I just bought a 1994 F350 XLT crew cab with the 7.3 IDI Turbo. It has an automatic transmission. odometer or mileage reading is 176523/2. I'm new to diesel and am now learning about it. The oil gauge was driving me nuts because it was reading LOW and yes I sure thought I had a serious problem up until I found your awesome channel and your video explaining what the issue was or is with the needle moving only a little. Man I thank you so much for sharing the information with all of us, Your great. I have subbed your channel and I gave ya a Thumbs Up. You can bet I'll be watching your videos and learning from em no doubt.

[@dragonrider9051]

You're right about the internet with bad advice, it's like the kids got older but never grew up.

[@estebanacosta2452]

Straight forward is what we need no bullshit thanks for being honest

[@altpotus6913]

I'll look into this on my ford diesel. Thanks for making the video!

[@phazerboy]

Thanks for the refresher. I thought I remembered thats how these work. Alldata states that is a variable resistor and the more oil pressure the less resistance to ground. Not so.

[@ilickcarpet]

I enjoyed this video and the clarification. Thank you, jwlandscape.

[@SC7driver]

Thanks buddy. Keep stepin on toes !

[@angeltorres7783]

Are you sure it’s not the liquid part of the guage?! Lol 😂. Thank you for this post your observation helped me a lot.

[@justinbelshe]

I installed an actual sending unit on the motor, but the gauge didn't work. I heard there was something to do with a resistor, but I was told that I needed to solder in a resistor. Turns out that I just need to clip out the resistor and jumper those solder traces. THANKS!

[@ippolitius]

I was starting to think my oil pump was going bad.

[@cainrose882]

liked and subbed cause of the no bullshit, straight to the point content. thank you. 👌

[@marlonturner226]

I have a motorhome with a 460 and having the same problem. I'm going to change the oil pressure switch and add a live gauge so I can really keep an eye on it

[@ACE21813]

I might replace the switch but thats good to know. Mine went from dead center to below the "N" and has just stayed there and would sometimes jump up randomly to the O so that makes sense

[@jerrypettis7954]

Thanks for the great information really appreciate your help

[@boondog9722]

I've got an all stock 1992 F150 xlt. 138,000 miles. Oil pressure guage has always pointed at the "N" in normal. I've never worried a lick about it.

[@garrisonbadger3091]

Good to know that's why I was watching this mine is on the o like you where saying.

[@ellerycollins1012]

Saved the day! Thank you

[@gmax341]

Thanks for the video! Any way to get more details on how to reverse what ford did with the resistor and sensor?

[@stevenclay9573]

Thank you Great show and tell

[@davidcook8323]

You mentioned all these people posting incorrect info they think is correct. So why are they watching the video? Hmmmm. Anyway, I should have watched before I bought the sensor. Maybe it's just a wire. Will find out today. Thanks for the video, sir....

[@henryhill3778]

EXCELLENT Video!!! That "Gauge" IS Worthless, unless you LIKE Ford FOOLING you.... Thanks for clearing it up... It's run by a wire, so might have well benn an idiot light instead of FOOLING the Public that it's "Gauge"! That said....... On my NON-Turbo 1991 model, that "Same Animal"/ Sending unit is in the back of the engine, right next to the Glow-Plug unit on the passenger side.

[@thomasjefferson2938]

Thank you for explaining this would like to have a real gauge like my 72 k5 blazer now just a dummy gauge no numbers none to little movement with rpms increase. 88 econoline with 302 it is in the normal range but far toward the low side.

[@jwlandscape]

I have since bought a better sending unit and the oil pressure gauge actually responds to throttle and works much better. If anyone was wanting to try that mod buy a Standard Motor Products or other quality sender. I bought a cheaper one from eBay and it looks like it was leaking since day one.

[@BenNewman1776]

Hey thanks for the video, do you have the part number on that sender?

[@SuperKONR]

@@BenNewman1776 Standard PS60 should do the trick

[@selador11]

What sender did you buy?

[@VAcreeper]

Good! Because I was thinking how mediocre and amateur you were when I saw that… Thought you were pretty much ignorant and useless.. then I read this- still think you’re ignorant and useless but least you did something right for a change…

[@roadsideguy5902]

Great video

[@obs_community9517]

Mine fluctuates after getting warm like a tac and I had to change the oil pan and before that it didn’t happen well I found out that I bent the oil pump shaft or whatever you wanna call it (on an f150) getting the pan out so I had to do this all again and had no engine stand or lift to use and when I started it back up it still did it and started having a hot tic which is just an exhaust leak from the header but man I’ve been chasing videos for about a year trying to figure it out and finally found your video

[@uptonfarms850]

Is the stock coolant temp sensor the same deal? I just bought 2 new digital gauges and sensors for trans and coolant. Always wondered how accurate it was, it seemed to fluctuate with rpms (and thus alternator charge) rather than actual temp

[@buckurich2491]

Hey if everyone else is worried about the oil gauge Not working,, drain your oil an start your truck / car or what ever You will be able to tell if it was the gauge an if it's working now My God

[@flash21502]

I assume this would also apply to a 95 F150? I have been thinking about just installing a mechanical gauge under the dash. Thanks for the video.

[@168Matches]

Thank you good sir!

[@GodsGraceGodsFreedom]

Very informative Video sir! Its a blessing to run across these when you need some help. I am restoring a 1993 F250 for my son. Its a 5.8L Gas. I had to replace a bulb in the cluster for illumination. I remember have trouble (getting tired, should have stopped) getting the harness plugged in on the left side of the cluster...sure enough when I when to start it...everything works well...EXCEPT THE OIL GAUGE! Coolant temp works fine. Its right below the oil press gauge. 1. If I get a sending unit like u explained. Do you have or can you send me a link on how to jump that “resistor” 2. I may have damaged the resistor with the harness plug...can I replace that? 3. What could I have shorted? Is there fuse for this gauge? Thank you for your time. Prayin you get back to me when you have time. God Bless you and your family sir! God Bless America!

[@twiztidiron]

Hell yea bro thank you!

[@miguelolmedo9178]

Dude I got my first diesel not too long ago. I have worked on it, replaced and rebuilt a lot of parts on it. One of my biggest worries was the goddamn oil pressure gauge. It was driving me nuts because it always hovered before the N on "normal". I will try to install a real gauge now.

[@nunyabizness611]

very helpful thank you

[@RC-Heli835]

Do you know how to test that oil pressure gauge? I've got one reading in the middle with the key on but cranked and running it goes to zero. We put a new oil switch on it.

[@dazmac159]

Stepin on toes is good, the truth is real!

[@big6red389]

So question are you saying if i get the new sending unit the real one itll still work with the factory gauge or do i need another gauge to?

[@RonComstock]

I've been trying to figure out why my gauge stopped working from one day to the next, literally. replaced sending switch, still not working. put an oil pressure tester on it, have 40lbs. When I decided to check for wire issue, I used a test light from sender wire to ground batt ( KOEO ) and no light. Tried sender wire to batt pos and got a faint glow. If I connect sender to wire and ground it and push plunger inside gauge moves again KOEO. With the key off, the gauge moves from zero to almost first line until key is on when it zeros out again. Could it be the gauge thats bad or do I have some backfeed? Or maybe that resistor is bad on back of gauge? Can you please help with answers or suggestions. 92 explorer sport. 4.0 pushrod

[@saywhat6768]

Just bought a 97 F 250 gas. V8 7.5 L. Didn’t notice initially, but when I start after long rest, oil gage shoots straight to middle of normal and never fluctuates. I thought I would have gradually got there. No concern?

[@1889michaelcraig]

Hey! I just bought new blinker fluid sir.

[@michaelbenoit248]

Have you had any issues where the gauge along with the temp gauge does wonky stuff, like switching directions if you keep turning the key on & off. The only gauge that works on my cluster is maybe the Speedometer & voltage gauge & that’s abt it.

[@loydheckenlively603]

I just replaced in my 95 for Bronco the oil sending unit unit and my gauge are the - of the - was working just fine and all of a sudden it wasn't or a sudden it went a wire it would go to low as soon as I let off the gas it would go right up to where it needed to be but as soon as I stepped on the celebrator it shrieked out I don't know what I'm doing so please give me an answer if you do thank you

[@tina4850]

Thank you

[@alonsogarcia1990]

I have an 89 .2.9L. My oil pressure and temperature gauge don't move up at all? If I turn off the truck then turn it on then they move and adjust but as I'm driving the go all the way down? Truck runs great but I'm a gauge checker . Should I look into this further? Also my heater doesn't work for the cold day. Thanks

[@mikemay777]

Thank you!!!!!

[@johnnyohness6610]

Good information especially for those of us that are not educated in this electronic stuff. Just wondering though. I changed the gauge chassis (the circuit board mount) from my 94 f250 IDI with what appeared to be an almost (if not new looking) printed circuit board chassis labeled 1995. When mounting my gauges, all of a sudden my oil pressure gauge went off the hook to infinity high. Could it be the resister for the oil sending unit be completely bad? I don't know much about electronics but compared the continuity (resister) from the old chassis (where the oil sending unit worked fine) to the new one and there was a huge difference. Something like 20.9 compared to something like 94.1. If the number is high like that does that mean the resister is bad? Sorry for my ignorance but I'm trying to learn a little something about this electronic stuff. Would that high number be the reason the gauge is going off the chart high? Thank you for your feedback.

[@jwlandscape]

For some reason I quit getting notifications from comments. The gauge clusters have minor differences. It's been a long time but I believe the years are 92/93, 94/95, 96/97. It can be corrected by repinning your vehicle connector by using a diagram of your year and the year the cluster came from.

[@zacharymuggli2258]

so as far as the resistor goes is that the same for the temp gauge my gauge works if i put power to it but does not in the truck. it just sits on cold. If so is the resistor a 20ohm too? never looked.

[@jwlandscape]

I would have to get that cluster back out of the cabinet and look to see if there was a resistor on there for the coolant temp. I'm fairly certain there is a resistor but the temp gauge is a little different. You need to check the temp sender and wiring. First, you can take the wire off the sender and ground it. This should peg the gauge. If not you need to look into the wiring and possibly an issue with the cluster (not usually). If it does peg the gauge then you need a new temperature sender. You could also try cleaning the connection to the temp sender before spending money. It's possible that the sender is bad or unplugged. The temp gauge actually has a real sender and does not function like the oil pressure gauge. It's still not very accurate in most cases and most people just get a real gauge.

[@EKKoSYKESMusic]

Lol thanks bud. I have an 88 f150 and I just did an oil change. The gauge went from the middle to the n and I was like wtf? I checked the oil and it’s at max. So I was like..... WTF?! I just bought the thing so I don’t know much about it yet.

[@jacobn516]

Can you tell me a good place to test oil pressure and how much i should be getting 1995 7.3 i almost have 300k miles

[@socksonfeet8125]

thanks for the clip, what about the temp gauge? both of those gauges on mine move just a hair on startup and never move after that.

[@braydenbelt456]

Temp gauge is decently accurate. Both my trucks sit around the N in Normal unless towing heavy.

[@alanmalcheski8882]

I stopped at a gas station, then the check engine light came on, then I saw the oil pressure said zero. But the temp was still low so I drove it half a mile more, and it was not heating up. It says I'm over full of oil, on the dipstick. But I took it to a place that knows how much to put in.

[@shaneandmaria]

will a oil pressure gauge not working cause a engine check light?

[@josehernandez-ni9jm]

Thanks

[@ricksouthernrock2639]

Have a question, I have a 1987 Ford Bronco, the oil gauge runs low and drops completely to low on occasions. Will this cause engine light to come on and engine to stall or do I have a real oil pressure problem ?

[@Georgiaboy9009]

You have an actual oil pressure problem, this gauge has no operation capabilities. Its like he said in this video, its simply a dummy gauge (basically it's sole purpose/capability is to display a reading to the driver).

[@almorris171]

First, resistors rarely go bad. Second, I suspected mine was an idiot switch that sets the pressure needle at a fixed point. Mine went bad causing the gauge to switch between zero and normal. Third, if you install a linear device on your engine, it needs to match up with that resistor you showed us. That means you should probably buy a new gauge with your new sensor in order be sure they are compatible. Manual meters are very low current devices that use resistors to control the ranges they are measuring. They have to match up. Too much current and poof, there goes your meter. My Toyota Supra has a linear OP meter. Unfortunately, some drivers will become anxious over fluctuations in OP as RPM moves up and down which explains to switch to idiot mode. They should have known better on a damn 4x4 truck however but they probably did the same switch in their soccer mom suvs. ;)

[@jwlandscape]

al morris There are actually a few write ups on these resistors failing and how to replace them to make the gauge sit back where it was supposed to. Not to say that's always the issue. I'm a maintenance man at a very old facility and time can do absolutely fascinating things to electrical systems lol. When hooking up an actual sender to the factory gauge the resistor is bypassed all together. It works quite well actually. Of course it's not telling you anything specific due to the lack of any sort of actual numbers. When I said in the video that the sender wasn't making the gauge as "awesome" as I thought it should be, I was unaware that it was bad out of the box and was the source of a major oil leak (which I assumed was coming from another place and we all know where assuming gets us lol). But yes a real gauge and nice sender are the way to go for sure. Someday I'll make an updated version of this video and skip the ranting. I think I'll include the pressure gauge actually functioning as well.

[@yaboijardo2319]

Thank you for posting this people mention issues but no one mentioned the oil pressure gauge going from nothing to normal back down to nothing, despite no issues

[@eb0800]

How did you remove those gauges from the board? I had my gauge cluster out and had everything off and they felt like they were glued in.

[@cleanassfrd3703]

eb0800 just gently pry up from the top or bottom, they may pop out a little. That is, if you haven’t already gotten them out

[@eb0800]

@@cleanassfrd3703 Thanks! That's very helpful to know.

[@cleanassfrd3703]

So basically, you’re saying that I could buy a legitimate “sender unit” as opposed to the factory “switch?” And I would get a semi more accurate reading, correct? Or should I jump the resistor in addition to buying a sending unit?

[@braydenbelt456]

Jump the resistor in addition

[@jeffflowers729]

I was aware of ford using a switch rather than a gauge. Wasn’t there even a law suit over it? Had a 2001 F150 4.6 with a switch. I have a 1987 Lima 2.3 in my mustang. The gauge used to move with rpm. Never made it to center but now it barely budges. Maybe my 87 has a real gauge since it changed with rpm? And now concerned that it doesn’t move. Will check the wire as a first step but what are your thoughts/comments?

[@MACPAIN]

thank u

[@armandomartinez-jp9zi]

I have a 1994 f250 idi turbo I see this sensor near my Turbo but there isn’t any wire connected to it?? And of course I have no reading for my oil pressure, where does this wire go? What’s the other end of the pressure sensor unit? Thanks in advance

[@jwlandscape]

It has a push on connector that looks just like the one for the signal on the starter relay. Mine has a white wire with a pink or red stripe. Not sure if a 94 is the same as my 92 as far as wire color but the connector will be the same.

[@armandomartinez-jp9zi]

jwlandscape oh alright thanks , but I don’t see this connector anywhere like it’s missing , do you know where does it go? One side is the sensor or course BUT what’s the other end of it? Thanks

[@jwlandscape]

I cant remember exactly. It has been a long time since I wired my engine. I want to say it was in the harness that connects on the driver side fender well. I believe it is in the loom with the glow plug controller wiring. The factory turbo wiring harness is a bit different from mine as my truck was non turbo factory. I also took my wiring harness completely apart and removed the unnecessary parts for things I wasn't going to use and reroute wires away from the turbo. I also deleted the glow plug controller so I cant really look at my harness and give you a certain answer lol.

[@boostv8chevy457]

Hi jwlandscape. I think it will be a good idea to make a Vid showing the oil pressure gauge and do the bypass with the ignition wire like you said. Also a cross section cut of the sensor to see the prinsiple of the swith like you call it right.

[@SuperRobvan]

what is web site for that gage

[@leobardomejia356]

I had a problem with my oil gauge I just changed the oil sensor

[@neilbaar6801]

Amem

[@hunterr5446]

Aka (dummy light) Couldn’t of said it better my self guy. You hit it square asf on the head

[@connoisseurofcannabiscarsp3755]

I have a 94 Mustang Cobra which I am the original owner.My gauge started jumping all over so I grabbed a MECHANICAL OIL GAUGE...and its great..30psi at idle and 60-80psi under acceleration and highway driving.I use Royal Purple 20-50 in the engine along with RP in the T56MAG I swapped in.The rear has 4.10 amd yrs is using RP..My nephew is the sponsored Funny Car driver for Royal Purple and it doesnt cost me a dime.I also use ALL Mechanical gauges.Analog forever.

[@jwlandscape]

And this is the only way to be sure lol. That real gauge wont lie!

[@grandpagrizzly56]

I beg to differ with you regarding your apparent assertion that the factory sending unit is a simple on/off switch and if your gauge reads low it is due to a failure of the resistor on the back of the gauge and/or some defect in the wiring, but not possibly due to the sending unit. You may want to watch my video - kzbin.info/www/bejne/omWwoYhvl8etqK8&lc=z22wuhd40ojijzmbx04t1aokgkbdvtbhpnq00yh35aghbk0h00410&feature=em-comments In my case, it was the sending unit that was the problem, not the gauge. It does indeed appear to have a rheostat in the sending unit that varies the signal strength based on the fact that the old one gave a pressure reading that was low and the new one gave a mid range pressure reading. You may want to recheck your research. At least in my case, and the cases of others who followed my lead and obtained the same success, our sending units do not appear to be simple on/off switches.

[@jwlandscape]

John R I can without a doubt assure you that the switch is just a switch. Replacing it obviously fixed your problem and that's great. But it was probably reading low because of the serious corrosion on it. Corrosion creates resistance which makes the gauge read lower. You can test this theory by leaving the engine off and disconnecting the wire from the switch and connecting it to a clean ground. Then turn on the key and see that the gauge will be sitting dead in the middle with the engine not even running. My main point here was it takes less than 5 psi to trigger that switch so in the stock configuration as long as it comes up then you have oil pressure. Maybe very little but it's there.

[@grandpagrizzly56]

As proven in my video, as the sending unit wears, it produces a lower reading indicating it is time to replace it. Enough said. It is what it is. With all due respect, I believe your piece does more to confuse the issue than to clarify it. The simple gist of the matter is, worn parts need to be replaced and outside of the norm gauge readings indicate something is worn out.

[@jwlandscape]

John R The main gist of my video was to tell you that the oil pressure reading on the gauge has no bearing what so ever on the actual oil pressure of the engine. I think I have given a pretty clear explanation of how the system works. I have been working on these old Fords for over 15 years and this isn't the first time I've dealt with this issue. I didn't say that the sending unit couldn't go bad. Your switch was working prior to you replacing it. The corrosion on the switch terminal was causing your low reading. So yes replacing the switch fixed the issue. It is still just a switch however. I intend to redo this video at a later date where I will address other things as well. The main point of the video was to tell you that when that gauge drops a little, it means absolutely nothing as far as your actual oil pressure inside the engine. 12v goes to that gauge, then out of the gauge trough the resistor to that switch. When the switch closes that circuit grounds to the block. The resistor makes the needle sit where it sits. If you bypass the resistor the gauge will peg on high. (I have done this) If you take the wire off that switch and ground it with the key on and the engine off the oil pressure gauge will sit right there in the middle just like if the engine was running. So all-in-all the switch is a switch. It is on or off. When I have time, I may just make a video to confirm this to anyone who doubts it.

[@boostv8chevy457]

Hi John. Next time it will be very helpfull if you have cut the sensor in cross section so we can see the system from the inside.The sensor must have a variable system inside. if not the gauge can fluactade. I like to call it pressure sensor and not sending unit.

[@stickxxcummings]

You didn’t help me one bit you talked down all the other videos about this that actually went over everything as in how to uninstall and install a sending unit , you showed some gauges and ran your mouth in circles

[@braydenbelt456]

Really that hard for you? Come on dude.

[@guilastocker8051]

To much talking.