OBS FORD HYDROBOOST-05+ AXLES-ZF5 MANUAL 4x4-38 GALLON FUEL TANK SWAP‼️

[@thomassanders6679]

Great content, really enjoy watching 👍

[@Moose400ex]

Definitely putting some upgrades into that old thing heh. I’d consider running a bottom tank mounted sump and a FASS. A FASS lift pump set up is such a good idea and cheap insurance, they filter so much better, down to 1 micron. The stock OE filter setup on that old thing is lucky to filter 10-15 microns on that old dirty style drop in cartridge filter setup on top of the motor. Switching and running A FASS guarantees a constant flow of clean fuel. There’s some cool options for em to, one is the sump, but the also offer option probe heaters that thread into the manifold of the FASS block, you can do 2 of them, one on each side, there’s npt plugs that you remove and thread the probe heaters in, it’s all plug and play and plugs into the fass harness, nothing else… and they will heat the fuel as it’s flowing to the filters preventing icing and geling of the water/ fuel sep and the main filter, and line all the way up to the engine. They are thermostatically controlled and heat the fuel in the tank as it’s cycled and ‘polished’ till how ever much fuel is in the tank is heated to 79 degrees I think it said and then they shut off. I put mine on my ‘02 24v HO Cummins 6 speed on a tog switch that I can manually shut them off co lastly in the summer time or turn them on in the winter months here in Colorado, they work great! I’m in Gunnison CO where I can and does get down to -30f for a few weeks in the winter time. That cold air will sit down in the valley here with the Gunnison river and the blue mesa lake and stay bitter bitter negative degrees cold. I’ve been able to start my ‘02 secound gen 24v HO no problem at all-20- To -30 f with the block heater not plugged in! Now Cummins 5.9 12v and 24vs are always known for being good cold startes with the grid heaters working. NO GlOW PLuGs here! lol. But having the probe heaters as a preventative backup measure is comforting to have when the temps hit 20-30 below zero and you forgot to plug In or at work all day and there’s no where to plug in your 100 footer you brought just incase! lol I’ll always carry a 100 foot gorilla heaven guage power cord and 3 way plug around in my tool box in the winter time just incase! Ya never know! But with the probe heaters even if your gelled or your water fuel separator is iced up, iit won’t take long to clean and clear it up. The fass will have no problem cycling fuel through and around back to the tank and heating things up! I know a a lot of times the stock OE ‘fuel heaters’ on diesels are junk, most the time the don’t work, or they leak or are burned out and most people delete them. I always deleted the fuel heater plate on my first gen dodge 12v Cummins trucks. And I’ve had 6 of them. The thread in heater probes in a fass are a waaay better setup. Way more reliable. A sump kit is simple to install, no need to drop the tank down at all, and with a sump installed you always have an easy way to drain your tank if needed. Get a dual port sump and you can use the 2nd port for the fuel return and not have to do the filler neck splice in return fitting that comes with the fass kit. OR!!! Do the filler kneck t-in fitting for the fuel return that’s supplied with the fass kits as instructed on the kit, and then Use the 2nd port on the sump as a fuel in from an aux pumper tank in the bed! And let it gravity feed, as the fuel level naturally drops down in the OE in frame tank, fuel from the aux tank in the bed will trickle and gravity feed in and your tank will always stay full! I wanna put a 30-35 gallon aux tank in the bed of my ‘02 secound gen dodge and hook it to my bottom tank mounted sump. I’ve got the beans machine dual port sump. It’s quite a cnc machined piece of art work, it’s even got an additional port that’s plugged or can accept a fuel temp sensor! Pretty trick stuff, I don’t know why anyone would not step it up and have better filtration, piece of mind and cheap insurance knowing that you got the finest micron filters and water fuel separator supplying clean unrestricted fuel at good fuel pressure. I don’t know about the ford power strokes but on the Cummins 5.9vp44 injection pump engines It’s pretty inperative that you have co stand clean cool fuel at 15-20 psi at all times or damage to the vp44 will result, anything oboe 10 psi and you will cook and damage the vp44. And they aren’t cheap! P7100 pumps, the older first gen VE rotary pumps, and newer common rail CP3 pumps it’s not as imperative to have constant fuel presssure as it is on a BOSCH Vp44 injection pump. The new new cp4 pumps absolutely need constant high pressure fuel flow, they grenade themselves. The in tank factory lift pumps just can’t supply the needed fuel flow, volume and pressures. Especially like on the dodge secound gens, where they mounted the cheezy Carter fuel Lift pumps on the side of the block and expected them to pull fuel all the from the tank in the back up to the front of the truck. They sucked and caused a lot of vp44’s to burn up. There’s even a factory recall TsB on that from the late 90’s and early 2000’s. Dodge/ mopar tried a factory recall update on them and did in tank retro fits in a recall campaign that was a failure. No vp44 truck with a FASS or air dog systems will have any issues. There both about the same, they both do the same thing, they cost about the same etc. I like and prefer FaSS for quality and figment reasons and for the option add ons like the probe heater options and an optional additional fuel heater sandwich plate you can put between the water fuel separator and main filters in addition to the thread in probe heaters! Have all sorts of heaters on it for ultra cold Alaska winters lol. I have 2 block heaters in my ‘02. The stock oe one, and I also added another one in the back rear freeze plug hole. So 2 block heaters warming the coolant front to back. I also have heater blankets for the winter time to keep both optima yellow tops warm. And I also did one of those Stick on heater pad thingies for the oil pan. I’d like to have some type of thread on oil heater for the oil pan, and I’ll do something like that if I ever need to pull the oil pan. Off for anything in frame and weld the needed bung into the oil pan for a thread in oil heater. There cheap, or just required drilling go a hole and welding in a bung. No biggie I’m just not gunna pull the factory oil pan and gasket just to do that. Everything is tied into one master plug end so I only have to plug one cord in and everything will heat. I’ve got the magnetic stick on oil pan heaters as backups just incase that can be quickly stuck on in a hurry to warm something, although they kinda suck. What’s funny is my trucks had a nice heated garage to park in during the winter time lol. I dunno if your where it’s cold in the winter but Colorado gets cold, especially in Gunnison. I’m currently on the western slope in GJ and it’s quite warmer here at a lower elevation, only 4500ft or so. But at higher elevations is where all the snow is at.

[@justtruckin3872]

I've missed your build content

[@jadennienhuis2204]

Couple of my favorite swaps, doing another super duty axle swap this winter, looking good!

[@MrBlackbutang]

Every Obs needs a 38 gallon rear tank! Installing 6r140 transmission behind my 521cid . Soon

[@teno_]

If it overdoing it if I buy an edge cts3 monitor and a sctx4 for tuning?? I want the best of both worlds but don’t know if it would be OD

[@LeftLaneDiesels]

@@teno_ not at all! That is one of the best set ups to have. I have this in many of my truck. An edge device for monitoring and a sct device for tuning, like you said best of both worlds.

[@flonga2302]

What belt tensioner are you running with that belt

[@LeftLaneDiesels]

@@flonga2302 factory obs one