Oil Change Intervals ?? | What’s Right For YOU?!

Opinion on modern engines and oil change intervals.

[@frank9649]

I like the question " what's the best oil?" the best oil is clean oil...period ! So, there you go.

[@mirola73]

Not even that, engine oil in a diesel is black in 50 miles ! Petrol engines, a different thing altogether.

[@ralfrufus6573]

@@frank9649 If I had to choose between a more expensive oil changed less frequently and cheaper oil changed more frequently I would choose the latter one as long as both oils meet manufacturers recommendation. Clean oil is best - and even the most expensive oil is harmful when dirty.

[@ralfrufus6573]

@@mirola73 Every oil is clean after 50 miles, regardless its color.

[@nicholaspetre1]

This is the best video on KZbin that talks about all major topics regarding oil and maintenance intervals. All info is here

[@gooddog8707]

Interesting to learn about pistons and timing belts. Funny, I never thought about the belt being lubricated by oil and that is another reason to keep the oil clean. Thank you.

[@doublebase6509]

Thank you. Just to be clear, a timing belt engine does not submerge the timing belt in oil, it’s sealed away from the oil. The crank and cam sprockets have seals around them (cam and crank seals) that prevent the oil from ever touching that belt. Then the belt is covered externally by a plastic timing cover. Oil would ruin a timing belt pretty quickly. The timing chain engines are different, the chains are submerged in that oil, and the oil is contained in the engine by a metal/aluminum timing cover. And these new timing chains are HUGE compared to old style short chains of the 80’s. They’re big, complex, and they need clean oil to keep the pins and rollers from gathering soot, which stretches the chains just enough to cause problems (noise, timing issues, misfires).

[@gooddog8707]

@@doublebase6509 I had meant to write timing chain, sorry that I stated belt. I did not know the new chains are so complex now. I appreciate the detail that you go into a subject. I am subscribed!

[@sqwidink1]

@@doublebase6509 Ford Ecoboost engine has a wet belt! Garbage idea.

[@oibal60]

I've a 2011 Toyota Camry LE, 59,000 miles. I've owned it for the past 15,000 miles. I do an oil+filter change every 5K, religiously. I've also done a drain/refill on the power steering (Mercon V) and the coolant system (Toyota spec.). I will also drain/refill the tranny oil (Dex VI) tomorrow. Car runs like a champ. I plan on keeping it forever.

[@jimlegalley6656]

I have 2-1971 Datsun 521 trucks having one for 45 yrs while the other for 27yrs. The owners manual states motor oil change interval at 2000 miles. I generally change at 800-1200 miles where the oil filter size is the same size used on all big block Fords. They run beautiful. The engines 1.6l sohc Datsun L16, were Trans national champions in the day 1971 and 1972 ran in the Datsun 510.

[@royderouin7510]

Me to ,...I have 6 trucks everyone gets changed @ 1000.0 miles

[@jimlegalley6656]

@@royderouin7510 You are one smart man!! Few have pil change intervals so low. The most I ever paid for a motor vehicle is $1500 for one truck while the other $800. They are primarily hobbies now since I get around on the classic old school mtn bicycles. I remember in 1966 my dad's freind was a salesmen at a chevy dealership in Flint, MI. He showed us a 283 v8 that siezed. With valve covers off, I could not see valve springs or anything on cylinder head as it was encrusted with sludge. The salesman told us the owner had changed the oil in his one car then placed the used oil in the 283. In those days, oil was mainly straight weight non detergent. A premature death to say the least. This observation at 7 yrs old impacted my behavior for the rest of my life. I'm 64!!!

[@gustavocorrea3726]

No matter what the computer tells about service intervals I do my oil changes every 5.000 miles and cvt transmission every 30.000 2015 accord now with 165.000 miles runs perfect And still counting no thinking to get a new car any time soon

[@geoffspitfire5160]

10,000km (6000m) full synthetic 5/30 + filter every 2nd change seems to work for my vehicles - but the climate is a lot less severe here in NZ than the US i would think.

[@siennagarcia1459]

I do 4000 miles full synthetic oil changes and have 2 Mazda 6's one is 16 years old and the other is 9 years old both running real good!!!!

[@doublebase6509]

I’ll tell yeah, I think Mazda is a very underrated brand!

[@davidr7872]

I change the oil and filter in my 1974 GMC C1500 and 1997 Pontiac Bonneville at 3,000 miles with conventional high mileage Pennzoil and quality filters like Wix. My 1998 Ford E150 4.6 gets a Motorcraft filter and full synthetic Pennzoil, it's currently at 212,000 miles.

[@djedwards8394]

I have a 2000 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9L V6 4x4 that my grandma gave me. She bought it new back in 99 right out of the factory and always had the oil and filter changed every 2,000 miles. I change the oil every 3,000 and to this day at 24 years old, the truck still doesn’t burn oil at 187,000 miles

[@rockytop4]

Damn good engine I had a 98 before I sold it it had 390,000 miles nothing but mobile 1 and there filter

[@freddyhollingsworth5945]

also some of these small displacement engines only have a 3.6 qt engine oil capacity and if you push it to 10,000 miles and it is burning 1 qt every 3,000 miles, the engine will be "toast" by about 9,000 miles, near dry on oil....I have seen 1,000's of bad engines just from being ran dry/super low on oil...NO ONE CHECKS oil levels anymore...

[@doublebase6509]

I think making sure the oil level is full at all times is the number one best thing you can do. Although I will say that fuel dilution (in my opinion) is the biggest detriment to an engine

[@furryp2402]

Toyota had a problem with valve stem seals on the four cylinder engines. It would cause smoke at start up but never bothered anything else. Plugs didn't fowl. Just change your oil every 5,000 miles or at least two times a year. Oil is cheap rebuilding an engine is not.

[@CreatingExcellence]

I change my oil every 5,000 miles with full synthetic. I do a drain and fill to my transmission (4-1/4 quarts) every 10,000 with Castrol Transmax full synthetic. Cheap and easy, both take 10 minutes.

[@grapsorz]

i do 10 000km (6250 miles) on fully synthetic and better then recommended (low ash and high interval oil) (i have seen the VW507.00 spec oil do fantastic even under abuse) i have seen a friend did not change his oil on his toyota 1.4L diesel and he did close to 60 000 miles on the oil (he topped up with the same high spec oil) and the engine serviced. when i took it out it cam eout just fine "hot" it was like tar when cold and took for ever to get in a empty jug. i open the filter an dit was just fine. no problem no real crap. the modern direct injected petrol engines have BIG problems with micro soot getting in to the oil and eating up the timing chine.. replace oil often on direct injected engines whatever they say in the book!

[@javierramos9795]

I do 5k on my non turbos and 3k on my turbo, I stay away from that high mileage mumbo jumbo and I never had a problem, I keep my cars for a minimum of 12 years.

[@Lifegoeson-nv9jv]

I use Mobil 1 high mileage synthetic and wix XP oil filter, even HM oil burns to, you people have to check your oil levels

[@GeneG-wk2mz]

I replaced every 3 yo 5 k and I used 5w30 only not taking a chance with 0w 20

[@felipetejeda7545]

My 1986 Toyota pickup calls for 5k OCI for regular driving, 2.5K for severe driving. I've always done right around 3k. But since I want it to last as long as possible, I am going to start doing them every 2,500mi.

[@doublebase6509]

You have probably one of the older vehicles out of people that have commented, and do you see how much intervals changed compared to a Toyota now, to a Toyota from 1986? Back in 1986 there wasn’t CAFE regulations, and a huge company like Toyota wasn’t penalized in the US for their carbon footprint, now they are. And now Toyota suggested intervals are 10,000 miles. Big difference. Good luck with your pickup! Those old Toyota’s are legends for durability. How many miles do you have on it?

[@girohead]

Maple syrup! I'm a pleased Corolla owner and completely agree. My 2000 was the year for the piston issue you mention, but my interval of 5000 has helped I think (3 better I'm sure), I switched to synthetic, twice so far which they say 10k but I do 7500, but might stick to 5000. I might also try the high mileage flavor as it does seem to be burning some oil now (requiring a 1/4 qt between change or so), but I'm hoping it's just the synthetic leaking through some old seals. I had a MB and was told the expensive oil change was justified because you 'only have to do it every 10k miles'... I think that was the start of the 'interval inflation' you discuss. My Corolla is at 197k, I was going to go till 200 to change, but I think I'll do it sooner. Regarding going higher viscosity for Toyota, I heard that's a good way to clog your vvt valves.

[@Todd.T]

3500 miles. Liqui Moly Leichttlauf. Audi 3.0t pushing about 480 hp instead of 330. Short trips and drag strips.

[@timbrown9731]

Bottom line is change your oil every 5K or for retired and not driving much once a year oil is cheap engines are expensive.

[@HuntsT]

I've been running 10k mile intervals on my 2013 nissan altima since I got it in 2017. I run a good synthetic and a good filter. 140k miles since 2017 ang the engine is running like new. No burning oil, no leaking, no nothing. I drive uber and average 2500 miles a month.

[@edubb2491]

140k= 140,000?

[@HuntsT]

@@edubb2491 yes

[@nicholaspetre1]

5,000 mile intervals can be different. One person can have 5,000 freeway miles within two weeks driving from Los Angeles to New Your and back while the other can drive 5,000 miles for the whole year taking his kid to schools, local grocery shop etc having lots of short trips during the year with outside temperature below 32 for at least half a year. So intervals differ a lot! Also, driving manner is different. There are lots of variables beside just this plain number of 5,000 that contribute to the longevity of your engine.

[@doublebase6509]

I agree. However when you’re talking about 2 different recommended intervals by most manufacturers…7,500 to 10,000 for ideal driving conditions, and 5,000 for not ideal driving. The 5,000 is the sweet spot, in my opinion, for most engines/commutes. However if we’re talking idling in traffic for hours everyday, tracking the car on the weekend…all with a small displacement turbo, direct injected four cylinder? All bets are off. Reduce it. Cut the interval down, but most Importantly, check your oil level regularly. My opinion.

[@nicholaspetre1]

@@doublebase6509 Gotcha. Totally makes sense. Frankly speaking even after 3K miles when I drain the oil, it look pretty bad. I have a new Toyota Tundra with 10K miles on it, and at 10K it was the 4th oil change after 6 month and 2,500 miles on it, and the drained Toyota Genuine Motor Oil was so bad despite new clean engine, low interval etc. Thank you

[@702Wolfi]

The oil in your Toyota looks like Amsoil. Amsoil turns into reddish color as well after a few thousand miles.

[@doublebase6509]

Interesting. I was using Mobil1 Triple Action Formula at the time of that video, but I’m now using my Amsoil for the very first time and you’re 100% right, it does turn the same reddish tint. Wonder if they’re sharing some of the same additives or base stocks now?

[@Tallnerdyguy]

3000-3500 miles 8 qts, 3.0l diesel

[@mirola73]

Different for everyone depending on geography, type of use, even engine.

[@doublebase6509]

Yeah I agree 100%. I tried to make that clear in the video but I think I missed the mark and placed a little too much “rule of thumb/generalities”. I think I may do another video soon.

[@MC-mh2ju]

The Toyota slogan, "Great boring car."

[@elroz1675]

helpful, for sure.

[@neolerades2987]

Why is driving on the highway considered ideal conditions, but towing a trailer is not ? Is there a difference when I go 95 mph on the highway or 55 mph with a trailer ? In my opinion, the load on the engine is approximately the same, the difference is only in speed. I change the oil every 8,000 km (5,000 miles) and so far I have had no problem with my engines.

[@doublebase6509]

That’s a good question. Check this thread out, there’s some good answers here. IMO bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/why-exactly-is-towing-severe.281893/

[@inbarasansamidurai7974]

Thanks a lot 👍

[@Mark-bd5ci]

Send your oil for analysis and then adjust interval accordingly if you want to be precise. There are so many variables to this it is hard to settle on a number that works for everyone and every car. So usually what happens is that we settle on the conservative side of around 7/8000 to 12000 km.

[@doublebase6509]

Yeah I agree to a point. And I think there are a lot of people that will do that. Test, go off their advice and wear metals, and extend (usually). This video focuses less on wear metals, but rings getting stuck do to soot and carbon from modern engine fuel systems/turbos/lighter weight oil. Used oil analysis might not detect that, however I guess you could say insolubles. That might point it in that direction. Of course you could also look at how much the viscosity decreased and fuel dilution numbers. But I get what you’re saying, some people know their cars, and will be able to increase their intervals quite a bit on some engines/vehicles, using oil analysis and knowing enough to keep up with oil levels, and use good filtration/oil.

[@wolfeadventures]

Oil analysis is not the end all be all. Not all possible contaminants or reduced additives are measured.

[@Handlethis342]

10,000 miles is entirely about marketing. 3,000 mile intervals with filter change every other oil change.

[@dongjuang4196]

What a pity that car producers do not make the tests at all to define correct oil change intervals. I wonder how they even manage to make a reliable engine being unable to test it.

[@doublebase6509]

That’s why manufacturers should hire better producers! Like Steven Spielberg or Quintin Tarantino!

[@dongjuang4196]

@@doublebase6509 I wish you knew my language at least 10% as well as I know yours.

[@frias2287]

Nice job👍👍👍💯

[@mow-it-pros5040]

I change my oil every 50k miles with dollar tree conventional, and a homemade cartridge oil filter with a coffee filter inside. F150 ecoboost, twin turbo, pulling 15,000lbs the last 200k miles. No sludge or oil burning.

[@doublebase6509]

Haha!

[@hendrixandmitch]

dude, lol you are very funny

[@CaptainQueue]

I've been going 4000-4500 miles between changes on my 2014 Taurus (120k miles), with regular oil not synthetic, for the 9 years I've had this. Only one time did I let it go until the sensor said to change the oil (at 5k miles). I do mostly highway driving at 75 mph and 200 miles a week. I almost always get the oil changes at quick lube type places which I just learned all probably use inferior oil filters. I may change my ways to 3-4k miles with full synthetic and at a real mechanic shop. Thoughts anyone?

[@doublebase6509]

Sounds like you have an easy commute, why mess with the success you’ve had? I wouldn’t change a thing. Those intervals are short, it’s not a direct injected engine…I think you’re doing great! I wouldn’t overthink it (although I’m always guilty of that myself). I’m sure the filters that’s being used are up to specifications for your application. I’m just surprised you/they are using conventional, most places don’t even bother carrying it anymore. Just my thoughts.

[@CaptainQueue]

@@doublebase6509 yeah I definitely overthink it. Valvoline here in Louisiana offers regular oil, synth-reg mix, and full synthetic. This 2014 6 cyl Taurus is running so well at 120k miles i don't see why it wouldn't go another 100-150k so I'm vigilant. I just changed all fluids and plugs and wires. Thx man.

[@wackey3455]

keep the car videos coming

[@DaBinChe]

With modern cars and flexible oil change interval, cars knowing driving conditions and adjusting inteval accordingly just stick with what the car says. On my Honda FIT, fix interval is 10k, and so far on flixible it is about 7-8k miles for my driving.

[@dmitryadamenko6518]

Started changing oil in 3333 miles intervals and oil filters every 10k. Makes changes faster and keeps mind at peace

[@SlikLizrd]

You'd be MUCH better off with a 5,000 mile interval for both Oil AND Filter. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and Purolator "BOSS" oil filter for superior performance and fuel economy.

[@marajevomanash]

Conventional Castrol GTX and change every 6000 kms.

[@doublebase6509]

Castrol is the one oil I just don’t seem to use often, I’m sure it’s just as good as any of the other major brands but for some reason I just don’t ever reach for it on the shelves. Although I have used their Magnatec (or whatever they called it) in the last a pod I liked it.

[@marajevomanash]

@@doublebase6509 Castrol GTX would be more resistant to breakdown due to heat.

[@carlmcdonald5864]

I drive 20k to work about 15km highway 5km local how often should I change my oil

[@doublebase6509]

It really Depends on the car/engine and commute. Sounds like you may have a good commute, mostly highway…that’s good, but what about your engine? Does it have direct injection? Turbo? Any known manufacturer defects or problems? If you don’t know the answer to any of these things it’s probably best to keep shorter. Do some on your specific vehicle. Google UOA and whatever your engine is. That may tell you how oil does in your engine and if there’s typically fuel dilution in your specific model. Good luck!

[@carlmcdonald5864]

@@doublebase6509 just got a 2024 colorado zr2 with a 2.7 turbo

[@doublebase6509]

Those are really nice looking trucks! Turbo and direct injected, I’d keep the intervals pretty short until more info comes out about the engine (as far as fuel dilution, etc). Congrats on the new ride!

[@anthonydefr]

I'm a 3000ish type guy with a older car. And I'm staying that way.

[@highrzr]

Good video. Oil changes are a lot cheaper than parts changes. The OEM maintenance schedules are based on "normal" driving conditions. Unfortunately, most people's driving conditions fall under "severe" driving conditions which have shorter maintenance intervals.

[@TheOnespeedbiker]

Agree. Normal driving conditions is a poorly understood concept (usually the minimum requirements for engine warranty repairs) and also more designed to comply with EPA extended maintenance mandates than engine longevity. Just assume the severe driving oil change schedule means normal driving conditions; IOW minimum 6 months or 5000 miles. And if you actually have severe driving conditions such as towing, extended stop and go driving/ extended idling, or numerous short trips under 20 minutes where your vehicle rarely reaches operating temperature or only does so for a short period of time (exasperates oil dilution especially with GDI engines), drop it down to 3000 mile intervals.

[@sovietrepublic38]

@@TheOnespeedbiker speaking of severe driving, I've seen idiots flooring their cars when backing up in parking lots. Not only it is dangerous, but they are also ruining their cars. Can you imaging reving an engine to 5000 rpm when it's cold?

[@TheOnespeedbiker]

@@sovietrepublic38 One thing many don't consider is the opposite, that being rarely driving with your engine over 3000 RPM. One of the main reasons for 7-10 speed transmissions is super overdrive for better MPG. My 2021 Jeep Cherokee with a Pentastar engine is only turning about 2000 RPM at 70 MPH, meaning the engine is rarely spinning fast enough to burn off carbon deposits.

[@sovietrepublic38]

@@TheOnespeedbiker yes, you do need to rev the engine over 3000 rpm sometimes. I put in lower gear on highway for few mins once in a while to burn carbon, but definitely don't want to do this when the car is cold.

[@TheOnespeedbiker]

@@sovietrepublic38 LOL no, not when cold. Interestingly with the Audi A3 with the 2.0 TFSI, when driving the engine at just over 3000 RPM raises the temperature and puts the engine into a “cleaning mode” where it runs leaner and hotter clearing out a lot of the carbon build up around the intake valves (a chronic problem with all the GDI engines). I don't know how good it works but Audi recommends you do this once a week for 15 minutes.

[@ajmedeiros77]

Biggest issue I see with extended oil change intervals is that most people don’t check their oil level and many new and newer cars/trucks burn oil. So your running your car on low oil and that’s what leads to the most failures

[@doublebase6509]

I think you have a great point!

[@Lifegoeson-nv9jv]

Like me I always refill my oil, make sure am good to drive, this man right ...

[@bobfeller604]

Correct!

[@dmironyuk]

Spot on 👌

[@brendanmccabe8769]

If the issue is low oil level surely the solution is check oil level with appropriate frequency rather than constantly change oil?

[@jacobware3753]

I change mine every 5k miles with full synthetic and a oem honda filter. Bought my rsx at 198k and now I’m 283k running smooth. I think I lucked out that the previous owner did a good job with it too.

[@removefromme]

This is the way. I got a Toyota and do the same thing. Thankfully Toyota oil filters are dirt cheap. Aftermarket filters work but they are significantly smaller for some odd reason.

[@gravemind6536]

I agree unless its near exclusive highway mileage because thats a different ball game and you can run longer intervals with no issues.

[@JohnNorris411]

Manufacturer recommends... Ya, the manufacturer wants you to buy another car.

[@djhimself5754]

19,000 miles oil change. That is the standard here in the Netherlands!! Every company car is maintained at 19 or 20,000 miles! I change it myself every 9,000 and everyone calls me a freak and a moron!

[@doublebase6509]

19,000 miles?? I’m ok with extending an oil change a bit on a well built car, known for being easy on oil, but I’m never going 19,000 miles!

[@critzlez8593]

@@doublebase6509 Probably means kilometers

[@int53185]

These pistons look like they came out of my daughters' car. she changed the oil every 10K miles. The engine was basically junk at 175K. If you want the engine to last twice as long change the oil twice as often. It's just common sense.

[@jtown1bb]

Most people won't keep a car past 100K. Good ol' American dream keeping people in debt with newest model cars.

[@doublebase6509]

I’ll tell you what, this guy ^^^^ is right. A lot of people won’t even keep these cars past 100,000 miles anymore - then it’s on to the next payment.

[@YeOldeGeezer]

I change my oil at 3k or a little later if unable to

[@int53185]

@gardenstaterx8661 The oil is still protecting bearing surfaces but its carbon ring buildup that does the long term damage. I change mine when the oil turns black.

[@mrdave777]

@@int53185 I do disagree with your opening statement. I believe in oil analysis. There are a thousand scenarios and criteria for differences in necessitating an oil change. Oil analysis is key.

[@edwardbailey9868]

4 to 5K intervals for me on oil changes, never more than 5000, my Tacoma has 267k on it & still feels like new to me performance wise. On my pilot the same interval I use penzoil & mobile 1 with oem filters.

[@meng6315]

10,000 miles oil change is a joke. It’s only to save the stealership money. If you want to keep your car for a very long time do it at 5,000 miles. But that’s just me. You do what you want because you’re the owner.

[@fordresurrectionest9556]

Stick to 5k miles oil change. No exceptions. You pay thousands of dollars for your car. That's your hard earned money.

[@doublebase6509]

While I agree with you, there are people that do 10,000 mile intervals and get these engines to 200k-300k mikes without issue. They’re using the right oil, they have the right engine for it, they keep the oil level full, and they have an easy commute. But yet I agree with you.

[@carlovanrijk4039]

@@doublebase6509I have a 2016 Honda Civic 2.0L i4 (non-turbo). I drive primarily hwy miles so I do OCI’s of 6K-7K miles. Hondas need to have their valves adjusted periodically. When we took the valve cover off at 150K, the valve train was silvery, clean, no varnish, deposits, or sludge at all. Quality oils, filters, and regular maintenance (also not dogging the car to death) can lead to longevity. I’m hoping to get at least 300K miles on it before I retire. 😊

[@jack8356]

Yeah i stick to 5k miles. 4k when do a lot of city driving.

[@kovalenkoihor4325]

​@@doublebase6509What do you mean keep oil level full?

[@danielpadgett2831]

I agree I change the oil in my 2015 nissan rogue every 5000 miles and I change the oil in my 1995 f150 every 3000 miles and it has 332,900 miles on it

[@CrowT]

5K miles or every 6 months, which ever comes first is a good rule to go by. What I have done for a long time and it seems to fair well. I do use a full synthetic oil.

[@OfficalDirectBasketball]

For the past 6 years ive been using mobil1 20k mile oil on my vehiles. I change it once a year reguardless of mileage. Typically i run 15k to 20k miles a year in florida. No issues on my end.(knocking on wood)

[@doublebase6509]

I mean, I wouldn’t go 20,000 miles on an oil change, but if it’s working for you? Nice. And you’ve probably done your research. I’ve used the Mobil1 extended performed several times, seem to do a good job. I have run it 10,000 miles before with oil analysis that came back great. But I just don’t have the stomach for it. Although I may perform an experiment to see if I can do 10,000 mile intervals, and still get to 300,000 miles without issue.

[@johnchristmas7522]

Its all down to your driving requirements. Constant cold start and short journeys add gas to your oil and so dilute it. Generally speaking, a engine needs to get rid of gas from the oil, that means long journeys. Cold engines also stress your oil and dont become hot till about 8miles. If you do lots of short journeys then your oil should be changed at half the recommended, if not more. Use your dipstick to give you a hint, if the oil is dark -change it. DONT GO BY RECOMMENDED MILES, GO BY THE WAY THE CAR IS USED. RECOMMENDED MILES ASSUME LOTS OF LONG JOURNEYS OFTEN. Oil is expensive, but parts and labour far more.

[@attilakohbor3360]

oil gets dark after the first 100 miles .

[@IssacMosiah]

​@@attilakohbor3360and it's dark underneath

[@JF-jm3nb]

Here up north Canada we follow the severe conditions maintenance recommended by the manufacturer. I have Mazda 2010 2.3l with 150k miles no oil consumption and the engine is clean. My 2018 ford escape ecoboost titanium every 3000 miles. Those ecoboost are very tough on oil you can see the difference between the two engines how black the oil is with the Ford. Great job!!

[@CreatingExcellence]

Agreed! I have the same engine. I change every 5000 miles with full synthetic. Sometimes I do it a little sooner. I do a drain and fill to the trans every 10,000 miles. 4-1/4 quarts and it takes 10 minutes. Castrol Transmax full synthetic Ford approved LV. I don’t like the Motorcraft LV, to many failed transmissions with that

[@CreatingExcellence]

Manufactures recommend fluid change intervals are so your vehicle dies outside of warranty. Especially transmission fluid intervals. It should be changed every 30,000 miles or less. I do a trans drain and fill every 10,000 miles and it takes 10 minutes

[@dongjuang4196]

I bought my Ford Fiesta 1.25 manual brand new. Changed oil according to manufacturers recommendations every 20kkm. In 6 years made 160kkm (warranty 100kkm) and guess what? Nothing happened. Because frequent oil change is no more than a kind of religion fed by garages who are interested in the frequent oil changes. It's hard to step out and see that the manufacturer knows better because he is interested in your satisfaction with his car. Yes, if you pray, it won't harm you, you might even think that it helps, but if you don't pray it makes a little difference.

[@daves2520]

Thank you for the video - it was very informative. I recently bought a Toyota Venza and am changing the oil every 5,000 miles.

[@carlovanrijk4039]

Daves2520, I also just bought a Venza (2015) and plan on changing the oil every 5000 miles. I could probably go further than that as I drive majority highway miles, but I’d like to see how long this thing can last! 😃👍🏼

[@davidinfante8529]

10k mile internals were driven by the need to have low maintenance costs for the JD Power rankings. Most warranties end at 75 to 100k and the data says they'll last that long on a 10k interval. The car mfg is thinking of themselves and not you. My Element has 304k on 5k oil changes and 45k atf changes. Original engine and trans.

[@doublebase6509]

I agree, low maintenance costs are a huge contributing factor.

[@BOSS-xy8op]

In that Toyota Engine...I would recommend sticking to the 0W-20 and 5,000 mile oil intervals. I have a Camry with the 2.5L engine that takes 0W-20 with almost 250,000 miles. No oil burning issues at oil. Engines are way more expensive than oil changes. I change mine every 5,000 miles with a good full synthetic oil and the Toyota TRD Oil filter. No problems.

[@nicholaspetre1]

What oil exactly have you used throughout the life of your car? 250K and no oil consumption is pretty rare these days.

[@BOSS-xy8op]

@@nicholaspetre1 I've always use Amsoil OE Motor Oil. Every now and then I will use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum.

[@nicholaspetre1]

@@BOSS-xy8op Ok, so it was AMSoil and Pennz Ultra occasionally. Not SuperTech, no? Like many other say on the Internet that SuperTech is as good as other more expensive oil. Gotcha. You used excellent and quite expensive oil and no wonder you engine did good, it had to truly perform well indeed. Thank you for sharing.

[@BOSS-xy8op]

@@nicholaspetre1 SuperTech makes a great oil, so does Kirkland Motor Oil from Costco. But as for me, I've been using Amsoil for over 18 years and they haven't failed me yet. The Amsoil OE is not too far off in price compared to other oils. But I do believe in frequent oil changes is the key, rather if you are using Amsoil or any other decent full synthetic, you'll be alright.

[@nicholaspetre1]

@@BOSS-xy8op Gotcha. Thank you for the insight. Truly support your point of view.

[@bigal9052]

2005 accord 432.000 miles Chicago stop n go and highway 10,000 mile changes Mobile 1 purolator filter not one problem now walmart oil 5/20 for the last 200,000 miles minimum it uses about 1/2 quart every 10,000

[@doublebase6509]

That’s some serious miles! I made to almost 300,000 in a 1999 Honda Accord before the thing just became unmanageable to drive everyday. But I loved that car.

[@cocacolagrl100]

The Lexus dealer told me I could go 10,000 miles on my Lexus between oil changes. I said absolutely not! They don’t know my driving conditions or how much stop and go traffic I sit in each day. 5,000 miles no matter what. Because I know if I did 10,000 miles and had issues down the road they would tell me I never changed my oil. Just like the Subaru dealer did to me.

[@jacobsebastien3910]

I change my oil with Castrol Edge High mileage Advanced Full Synthetic with a Wix Oil Filter in my 2008 Ram 2500 4wd Hemi Every 3,000 miles but i constantly have weight in the bed. It Runs Flawlessly" Cant even feel the engine running idling.

[@JohnBoulding]

My 2008 mazda 6 3.0 gets high end synthetic every 7500k as per trh manufacturer and it has 240k and runs like a top. But my 2018 mazda 3 2.5l being direct injection gets changes at 5k as per manufacturer and at 64k it uses no oil and has minimal carbon (so far). All my cars get lots of highway driving and the occasional 'italian tuneup'. Havibg said all that, i agree with you about those 10k + changes. No oil should stay in the engine that long.

[@saulreynoso4371]

I have a 13 highlander which i bought new with the same engine as your camry and gets 5k mile oil changes with 0w-20 oil. It has 135k miles and still drives like new. All maintenance done by me.

[@mooses4557]

I got a 2017 Impala 2 years ago with 34k miles. It currently has 56k miles. I do all the maintenance on it, oil changes every 3k miles. I always check it every 1k miles, and at 2k, it is already dirty. I use a Wix XP filter and Pennzoil Platinum. Still runs smooth. These new engines just run hotter and are dirtier, which for city driving (stop and go), do oil changes more often.

[@garysuarez9614]

Wix brand had never failed me.

[@billknox4121]

Oil isn’t always dirty when it gets darker - it’s mostly heat related

[@DominiAeternum]

Why not use full synthetic if you really care about the car?

[@nicholaspetre1]

Totally agree

[@nicholaspetre1]

@@billknox4121exactly!

[@nickontario4681]

I won't change from 5000kms CHEAP INSURANCE if it costs me an extra 2 changes a year !! Vs Major engine repair /rebuild No Brainer

[@dproulx222]

Smart move... Agree 100% I hope your engine lasts you a long long time. What kind of car do you drive and where do you live? I'm in Alberta, Canada and Toyota recommends changing the oil every 5,000 miles (8,000 kms) or every 6 months - whichever comes first. I change my oil every 4 months because of the extreme cold and because I predominantly do city driving (City 70% / Highway 30%). I use Toyota 0W-16 Mobil 1 0W-16 Castrol 0W-16 I've never used Pennzoil 0W-16 but have no qualms about doing so.

[@Painting_Inspiration]

If you change your Benz oil to a 10w40, you will stop consuming oil entirely. The lighter molecules in the 0w tend to evaporate with a hotter engine. Thank me later.

[@worldtran5511]

oil change 5,000 miles and your car very happy

[@dmironyuk]

10k miles is fine w/good syn. oil & a good functioning engine(no other issues), had plenty of cars(over 200k) with no oil burning, compression issues or anything else oil related. "Just make sure to always check oil levels, that's key👌"... You're wasting money & resources otherwise. People telling you 3k miles? They've been watching too many commercials or simply wanna hold on to your dollar bills😄. Anyways this guy seems spot on👍

[@doublebase6509]

I’ve tried a few 10,000 mile oil changes on my Avalon. Like you said, use good oil, and make sure you have an engine that can handle an extended drain. Know your car.

[@royderouin7510]

I change my oil every 1000.0 miles cause I'm not walking and I'm not doing engine work,......my 95 F 150 430,000. 5.0 enough said

[@aciddiver1978]

5-30 oil is better for protection and lower oil consumption. Thats my experience.

[@doublebase6509]

It’s funny you say that, as my vehicles start to get up there in mileage I’ll bump up the viscosity to a 5w30, from a 0W20. Part of me wonders if I’m wasting my time but going from a 5W30 is not a huge jump anyway.

[@mrdave777]

@@doublebase6509 Great comment. Look at Lucas, that’s thick as molasses! An older car requiring 5/20 sure could use higher weight oil or Lucas to raise oil pressure in older cars. Correct?

[@kennethmccann6402]

Watch KZbin "Project Farm" channel testing oil brands, he's the best! My 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.2 V8 is still going strong for 30 years without engine or transmission overhaul. Right now it is over 434,000 miles. Several years ago, I've used conventional oil then blue smoke came out from tail pipe as I didn't like so, I switched 5W-30 Mobil One Synthetic oil (not extended). I changing oil every 6 months Spring and Fall since retired is fewer driving to change on 5,000 miles but not beyond 7,000 miles plus, added engine restoration solution and Royal Purple oil filter for years (changing oil filter to max 10,000 miles (now I can't get Royal Purple filter size anymore I've switched Bosch). Also, I've reduced engine thermostat to 180 instead of 195 degrees to prolong engine life without any problem or always passed smog check. Additionally, I've used mostly Chevron 87 octane gas of trying not get a cheap gas brand too.

[@doublebase6509]

I like high mileage stories. But I don’t understand why you’d drop the thermostat temp...do you live in a hot climate area? Were you having problems with overheating? Nowadays vehicles try to get the engine up to operating temp as fast as possible, and keep it there.

[@aciddiver1978]

But they dont care about the carbon footprint on the valves with those thin oils and long oil intervals on Gdi engines. Because its expencive to walnut blast intake valves.

[@wildmanofthewynooch7028]

The manufature of my car recomends 6 thousand miles but I change my oil every 4 thousand only because I live in a city and stop and go high heat and low winter temps. Oil is cheap engines are expensive.

[@godfatheratlsu]

Running a 2015 BMW X535i xdrive, oil change with Castrol Full Syn Euro spec every 5k miles on the dot. Got 200k miles last month and still running like a champ. Lots of oil leaks due to embrittled gaskets and plastic parts, etc. But I do take care of those upon first sight. So far so good. Tuned it to run 400hp and 435tq at the moment, it's strong.

[@doublebase6509]

I love high mileage stories, especially with BMW’s!

[@jonc2914]

I have a 200k mile x5. All bmw's are gasket leaking nightmares.

[@elgransr]

Wow a BMW owner that takes care of their car and maintains. Thats pretty hard to come by.

[@spauley2133]

Bought a new 2002 E450 6.8 V10 Triton. Went 595,000 before engine gave out. Mobil 1 Full Syn 5w30 10,000 mile intervals.

[@doublebase6509]

I’m running Mobil1 5W30 in my car right now. And I’m doing a 10,000 mile interval. I plan on doing a 10,000 experiment video - ive done one analysis, came out great...no oil consumption, nothing. This is my 3rd (or 4th) 10,000 mile interval. But this engine is capable of handling it (2GRFE), I wouldn’t do it on every engine, especially direct injection turbos, with variable valve timing, etc.

[@spauley2133]

@@doublebase6509 Sounds good. If you do a lot of highway driving like I did, you should get 600,000 miles or more. I am using 5w30 Pennzoil Ultra now.

[@robertjohnston3658]

You are one of the few “ oil experts” to even mention that the manufacturer oil intervals are only for ideal driving conditions, that very few car’s experience. Look at their severe conditions, oil intervals and you will find it’s about half the advertised frequency. What is extreme conditions? Almost every trip you make is extreme if you city drive, live in hot areas, drive in extreme cold, idle your car a lot or drive your car hard and fast. So halve the manufacturer’s politically motivated long oil change interval Simple!

[@wadeyorke8144]

Regarding the oil viscosity change on the Toyota V6, I also question Toyota's advice as they likely didn't change the engine internals. I have a 2012 ES350 and the oil cap says 5w-30 but the dealer wants to put in 5w-20 since they don't bother stocking the 5w-30. I feel safer with the 5w-30 since I only drive it in the summer.

[@doublebase6509]

Yeah, if it’s saying 5w30 on the cap I’d definitely keep the 5W30 in it. Mine says 0W20 and I just bumped it up to a 5W30. I figure, it’s not that much different and this engine has been around a long time. Every search I’ve done there’s plenty of folks running the 5W30 without issue

[@SlikLizrd]

@@doublebase6509 Say WHAT !?? You say to "do what it says on the Oil Cap" in regards to the 5-W-30 oil, but then you turn around and tell us that your Cap says 0-W-20 -- but you "bumped it up" to a 5-W-30 because "It's not much different". You were right the 1st time -- Put the Oil in that the Manufacturers recommend for their Engine Oil Viscosity.

[@pliedtka]

In areas with very warm climate once the engine reaches operating temp the 5w-30 will be better at protecting engine parts than the watery 0w-20, which might be a perfect choice for real winter conditions. The fuel economy will be lower with 5w-30 due to higher frictional losses - the number one reason companies switched to very light oils to follow the stinking CAFE regulations. 0w-30 might be good alternative, I use it instead of 5w-20.

[@SlikLizrd]

@@pliedtka It's absolutely amazing -- the number of people that think that they know more about engine oils, their uses, and climatic requirements than the engineers that designed and built their engines. Get a clue -- Use the Oil Viscosity that is recommended in your Owner's Manual or is indicated on your Oil Fill Cap. I've lived in the desert for over 50 years -- 180,000 miles on the V-8 engine -- I run constant engine temps of 185-200 F. Recommended Oil Viscosity is 5-W-30, Bosch Premium Oil Filter # 3410; FilterMag Magnet Kit. Oil & Filter changes at 5,000 Miles. Rational adults know that those CAFE Regulations were NOT put there for ignorant malcontents to ignore. 😁

[@AEVMU]

@@SlikLizrd The thinner oils, like 0w-16, exist only for mpg and CAFE, not because they are superior in terms of reduced wear. Yes, the engines can handle it, but they will show lower wear with a slightly thicker oil.

[@australianmade2659]

7500km or 5000miles for sure

[@rafaelbetancourt3551]

Oil is cheap, Engines are not :) change your oil every 5-6k and you engine will do 200k On transmissions I do Amsoil CVT oil as I am not looking to change it that often.

[@redlywaxer]

Finally! A REAL explanation to why engines begine consuming oil. I always say to use the best, longest life oil and filter I can reasonably purchase, and then change it on time. I use a lot of 20,000 mile rated oils, but then change it at half that mileage or no longer than 6 months or one year even if lots of highway miles and limited short trips. For engines that are consuming oil already and need rings and ring grooves cleaned safely, use HPL engine cleaner for a few oil changes with a high mileage synthetic, or use Valvoline's Restore and Protect oil for a few oil changes. Both of these will clean your engine safely over time and bring back a newer state to your piston ring grooves and free yp those rings

[@doublebase6509]

You mentioning HPL means we travel in the same oil/automotive circles, and those are good informative circles to be in. I’d like to try HPL for a run but for my driving conditions it’s probably not worth the added cost. Restore and Protect sounds interesting…I’ve seen the videos and claims. I’m always doubtful with engine cleaning claims but I’d certainly try both if I needed to. Thanks for the comment!

[@westfield90]

I purchased my first car about 25 years ago and at that time the recommended oil change frequency was 3000 miles which I followed religiously and that car lasted me 12 years with little to no problems. Since then I’ve noticed manufacturers keep extending the interval from 3k to 5k to now 7k. However I always still change my oil about 4-5k miles based on my experience with my first car.

[@lanceshier741]

25 years ago, and fast forward today the lubricants we use in our vehicle are so much better in advanced

[@Frank-nh9fe]

@@lanceshier741True, and the reason engines last so much longer on average today. But regardless of the quality of the oil, I believe contaminants are the issue. Cleaner oil = longevity. I vote for more frequent oil changes than manufacturers recommendations. Cheap insurance. Also good for resale, more frequent oil changes is an indicator of an owner that cares. Will impress a future buyer.

[@Frank-nh9fe]

A higher efficiency oil filter may however lead to more oil bypassing the filter due to higher resistance to oil flow.

[@averyalexander2303]

@@Frank-nh9fe That is true, especially when the engine is cold and the oil is thick. I think that's why many OEM filters are so inefficient at filtering- the engineers prioritized minimal flow restriction and minimal bypass over filtering particles that are too small to do significant damage anyways. One sufficiently large chunk that gets through while the filter is in bypass can do a LOT more damage than many tiny particles ever could.

[@GymChess]

Only 12 years despite all your efforts?

[@tundras4ever552]

5k or 6 months is basically the perfect number. If you’re direct injected and boosted I’d even lower that to 3500-4k miles

[@regieds]

I recently got a 22' WRX, the maintenance manual calls for 6k oil change intervals and I will be doing 3k based on this video and other people's experiences I've read online.

[@andrewg.2165]

I just started changing mine every 2,000 with the cheapest synthetic that’s dexos 2 approved ORRR 90 days. I never knew the base oil begins to oxidize so quickly…good info

[@anonymike8280]

That is a good move. With a 2000-mile oil change interval, you do not need to use any kind of special filter either. Low-end and no-name filters are made to go 5000 miles, but not more. I got a one-owner 2001 Camry Le four with 143K on it back in early 2021. Some aspects of the maintenance had been ignored but the owner had been meticulous about oil changes over the entire life of the car. I have been keeping a 2800-mile oil change interval based on all in-town driving. 30,000 miles later, the engine is still as tight as new. I use whatever oil is the cheapest and a Supertech filter. All dino oil is semisynthetic now. Originally, my oil change interval was 2500 miles with conventional oil.

[@tioswift3676]

Such a waste of oil and money.

[@musicsavesxlives]

Anyone using oil flush did on x5 2010 helped 229,000 miles 5,000 every oil change

[@doublebase6509]

I personally have never done a engine flush/clean. I do think if done correctly (occasionally) they can help keep an engine cleaner, however there are oils that use esters and detergents right now that could do a similar job. Watch any video on Amsoil Signature Series or HPL, and there’s some documentation that carbon/sludge will be loosened and land in your filter (it might be important to change the filter halfway through an interval for the first time user). I’m think about going that route soon with my car, but honestly I don’t think it really needs a cleaning. It doesn’t consume oil, I’ve always used some sort of hydrocracked group lll synthetic, maybe a gas to liquid base sometimes, and twice a Mobil1 EP with around 30% PAO.

[@otarsulava]

I use Liqui Moly oil flush after 20k miles BUT I did this way: after adding flush additive, idle run and drain, I added fresh oil, idle run and drained it AGAIN, before finally adding fresh oil and new filter, engine sounds much quieter and runs smoothly

[@stephendibari5010]

My 2002 Lexus ES300 has 176k miles. 1MZ-FE engine is silky smooth. Bought it 2 years ago from original owner w 160k miles. Been using Pennzoil Full synthetic high mileage 5W-30 oil changes at 5k intervals. I can say it burned about 1 quart after my first oil change when I used the non high mileage full synthetic Pennzoil, but after switching to the high mileage oil it doesn’t burn one drop in 5000 miles

[@gemeinschaftsgeful]

Oil change intervals are not Woke. It's not all about the expressing your personal truth and your authentic self. Change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles and the engine will last a very long time with minimal wear. Also, check your oil level every week. If it's a little low top it off.

[@cardo1111]

Excellent vid. Well explained and informative 👍🏽

[@coldjello8436]

The giant wrench is what makes a better mechanic.

[@CreateMyOwnOpportunities]

I do my interval at 3000 miles even full synthetic. Logic tells me its cheaper than a rebuild engine. My crv 2004 250,000 miles now. I plan to get to 500,000 miles.

[@doublebase6509]

I love high mileage stories. Personally I don’t do 3,000 mile intervals anymore - I used to years ago - but it didn’t help me in the long run...1999 Honda Accord purchased new, 3,000 mile intervals it’s whole life. Engine was cooked at 289,000 miles, burning 1 quart every 600 miles. My short intervals didn’t save me.

[@raycollington4310]

Concise explanation of this contentious matter, this was very good. Funny how we tend to take notice of the engine manufacturer regarding oil grade when at the same time they are pulling our chain on intervals. We know the OEM engineers are overruled for commercial reasons. Kind of makes me sceptical of everything the manufacturer tells us. I also note you were not anti non-OEM filters. I'm wary of aftermarket filter by-pass valve pressure calibration and if anti-drain valves are fitted (especially on high engine filter locations. Thanks again for the great consumer guidance, very well put.

[@doublebase6509]

Well said, and thanks. Regarding the filters, you bring up a good point. I know there are some engines that are sensitive to bypass pressures if they are off just a little bit. I’ve never had a problem, although I certainly have used my fair share of OEM filter. I’m really liking the Fram Ultra cartridge filters for the Toyota, but I’ve used OEM more often...they’re cheaper and rated for 10,000 miles. Mobil 1 makes a decent filter, Amsoil too, but they’re expensive at $20 plus a filter. And you’re right, OEM engineers are overruled for commercial reasons, and regional warranty campaigns. An oil change interval or viscosity is not always the same depending on where you are in the world.

[@davida871]

Cheaper to buy OEM Toyota oil filters imo. Buy Toyota for quality so stick with quality.

[@gmm1904]

I use mobile one 5w 30 full synthetic extended performance and Fram filter non my 2010 Kia Soul sport 2.0 keep my engine running good Still at 290,000 highway miles no major problems I use oem parts and change pcv valve every 30,000 miles. I buy my own oil and make sure they put what I need. If you go to jiffy lube they will just put a basic thin oil that works but not good for your car.

[@doublebase6509]

So what are your intervals like? 5,000? 10,000? 15,000? 3,000? I’m curious because I’m thinking of going with the Mobil1 EP 5W30, or even a boutique oil - and just sticking with one brand. I usually will use any certified name brand synthetic that is on sale.

[@gmm1904]

I change my oil every 5,000 to 8,000 but i also change it depending on how the oil looks not just millage

[@doublebase6509]

For the people on Facebook, if you like vehicle maintenance stories, check out the “mileage impossible” page. Some really interesting methods people use to get their vehicles to ridiculously high mileage (I think the minimum mileage to post a story is 250,000). There’s some people on there with over 600,000 miles on their cars/trucks. Worth checking out. IMO.

[@tonywhite425]

lack of oil changes cause that

[@Commentleaver-c6x]

I would like to see someone do a study where they buy a new car or truck and never change the oil and see how long it will last. I suspect longer than a lot of people think.

[@doublebase6509]

True story, I was in a class where the instructor worked for Toyota, Mobil1 was working with Toyota at the time to formulate their oil for their 10,000 mile intervals. A lot of concern from the facility reps over this, as expected - Mobil1 assured them that their oil could go a lot further than 10,000 miles. Not sure how much longer but a lot further. Me? I’ve always been a 5,000 mile guy, but in the right engine/right commute/right oil, I think 10,000 is very doable.

[@spartus56996]

Direct injection makes things even worse with fuel dilution, I'm doing 4,000 mile interval with full synthetic, the oil is black, very dirty, I may end up doing 3,000 since i do it myself.

[@aciddiver1978]

That is a very good practice.

[@johnfranklin5277]

I bought a new car in 2021, GDI, and my 1st Turbo one. I like the Turbo but try not to get into it only when necessary lol..yes the oil starts getting dark, and smells of gas around 2000 miles, but no increase on dipstick. I intend to keep the car long-term, so doing 3000 mile oil changes. Even on cars that I know I won't be keeping, I do 4 to 5 thousand mile changes. When I was younger and bought USED cars, I always hoped the previous owners took care of thier engines, so I'm just doing the right thing for the next person.

[@doublebase6509]

Yeah, I agree. Direct injection has changed the game with oil change intervals.

[@spartus56996]

@M R The issue is the difference between Ported Fuel Injection and Direct Fuel Injection, Direct Injection turns the oil black in a very short time ( 1500 miles) this is not the case with Ported Injection, the API and ILSAC had to create new specs for Direct Injection, hence the SP and GF-6 oil spec, Direct Injection is hard on engine oil, do not exceed 5,000 mile interval.

[@mplslawnguy3389]

The color doesn't really indicate the health of the oil. All oil changes color once it's used.

[@dtna]

If you own a Toyota, you should not wait 10K for your oil changes. Don't listen to organizations like Edmund's, Consumer Reports and other organizations that measure the cost of ownership. Auto manufacturers look at these costs and want to be favorable. But, they also want you to buy a new car. Change your oil more frequently and use OEM oil filters. Denso is the manufacturer for Toyota. And your engine should last longer. Don't forget your ATF fluid, too. "Lifetime ATF" is B.S..

[@bradgreen987]

If you run it hard like me in a 320 whp modified car, I change the oil every 2,000 miles. Blowby is a huge oil degrader

[@robertnweeia7496]

My 03 CRV was checked by Honda at 211k miles and the technician said that the engine was spotless...It now has 309k miles and still immaculate inside and runs like a Top

[@robertnweeia7496]

I forgot to say that I change the Mobil 1 every 5k miles along with the Mobil 1 oil filter

[@doublebase6509]

Those engines were great! I have a 2008 with 180,000 on it, haven’t done a single out of pocket repair on it yet. 5,000 mile intervals. I also do the coolant and tranny every other year. I do the rear diff as well

[@joeldiaz5857]

@@doublebase6509 No maintance repairs like muffler?, bushings ect?